USA > Massachusetts > Bristol County > New Bedford > The history of New Bedford, Bristol County, Massachusetts : including a history of the old township of Dartmouth and the present townships of Westport, Dartmouth, and Fairhaven, from their settlement to the present time > Part 8
USA > Massachusetts > Bristol County > Westport > The history of New Bedford, Bristol County, Massachusetts : including a history of the old township of Dartmouth and the present townships of Westport, Dartmouth, and Fairhaven, from their settlement to the present time > Part 8
USA > Massachusetts > Bristol County > Dartmouth > The history of New Bedford, Bristol County, Massachusetts : including a history of the old township of Dartmouth and the present townships of Westport, Dartmouth, and Fairhaven, from their settlement to the present time > Part 8
USA > Massachusetts > Bristol County > Fairhaven > The history of New Bedford, Bristol County, Massachusetts : including a history of the old township of Dartmouth and the present townships of Westport, Dartmouth, and Fairhaven, from their settlement to the present time > Part 8
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25
This island, Elizabeth, or Cuttyhunk, now so completely divested of trees or shrubbery, was then finely wooded with trees of various kinds, such as "oaks, ashes, beeches, walnut, witch-hazel, sassa-
F .:
118
fras and cedars, with divers other unknown names." The old journalist goes on to say, " In this island is a stage or pond of fresh water, in circuit two miles, on the one side not distant from the sea thirty yards, in the centre whereof is a rocky islet, containing near an acre of ground, full of wood, on which we began our fort and place of abode, dis- posing itself so fit for the same." Here then they landed on the day before mentioned. In another account of this voyage, written by John Brereton, the author says, in speaking of this important event, " Captain Gosnold, myself, and some others, went ashore, and going round about it we found it to be four English miles in compass."
The island was not inhabited by the Indians, al- though it was frequented by them for hunting and fishing. They found the ruins of an old wigwam, and part of a fishing-weir. The island was thickly wooded, the principal trees being beech and cedar. They also found red and white strawberries, which he describes "as sweet and much bigger than ours in England," raspberries, gooseberries, whortleber-' ries, vines running upon the trees, also springs of excellent sweet water. He also describes the lake of fresh water, "near the sea-side, an English mile in compass, which is maintained with the springs running exceedingly pleasantly through the woody grounds, which are very rocky." They also found "great store of deer and other beasts, as appeared by their tracks," also great numbers of sea-fowl, " geese, mallards, teals, &c." On the north side of the island they "found many huge bones and ribs
119
of whales." The little island in the fresh-water pond was also covered with trees ; and they feasted and grew fat upon the young sea-fowl which they found in their nests upon the banks and low trees.
The description given of this island, Cuttyhunk, leaves no room for a doubt of its being the one on which Gosnold and his company landed; and the identity of the fresh-water pond, the islet within it, and the fact that they erected a "place of abode" and fortified the spot are also beyond a doubt. The cellar of Gosnold's house and fort were distinctly to be seen until within a few years; and although the ground of this little island has been sacrile- giously ploughed over and cultivated, so as almost to obliterate the last vestige of this interesting and important ruin, still the exact location of the first abode made by Europeans upon this coast can be identified ; and it is highly probable that upon a careful examination of the spot, and an excavation being made, the cellar might be again found. In the year 1797, Dr. Belknap, the historian, visit- ed this spot, and found the remains of the cellar. In the year 1817, July 23d, a party of gentlemen from Boston, taking a sloop from New Bedford, also visited this island, and in a letter published in the North American Review, vol. 5, an account of this visit and its results is given, from which I make the following extract:
" In the western end of the pond is a high islet, surrounded by a rocky margin and covered with a very rich soil, in which were growing the wild gooseberry, the grape, elder, mallows, primroses,
120
eglantine, yarrow, sumach, wild parsnip, beach- plum, wild cherry, wild pea, Solomon's seal, the convolvulus, thoroughwort, and red clover. The stump of a red cedar stood near the shore, and we brought home a piece of it as a remembrance of our expedition. On the northern bank of the islet, about ten yards from the water, we found a small excavation overgrown with bushes and grass, on one side of which were three large stones in a row at the distance of three feet from each other, having under them other stones of the same size lying in the same direction. Between these were smaller stones, which appeared by their form and smooth- ness to have been taken from the beach. In another slight excavation twenty yards south of the former, near the centre and highest part of the islet, were similar stones, but very few in number and not disposed in any apparent order. On dig- ging in other parts of the islet, we found more of the same kind. We conjectured that the first excavation was all that remained of Gosnold's cel- lar, and the latter a part of the trench dug for the purpose of forming the fort." .
A few weeks after this, a party of gentlemen of New Bedford made a visit to this spot, among whom was James Howland, 2d, who informs me that they discovered upon the highest part of this islet what they concluded to be three sides of the cellar of Gosnold's house, which he estimates to have been about fifteen feet square.
There can be no doubt that this was the place of his residence, for there is no other pond con- taining an islet in any one of the Elizabeth Islands. The building and fortifications must have been quite substantial, as they were employed three weeks in constructing them. As no mention iş
121
made of masonry or the use of lime, it is probable that the house was either built of stones and turf or mud, or in imitation of an Indian wigwam, the remains of one of which it will be remembered was found by them upon the main island. In either case, it would in a neglected state have soon fallen down. The old journalist speaks of their being employed at one time in "rubbishing their little fort or islet," by which I understand that they used the bushes and smaller trees for this purpose. So that should nothing more be found than the remains of the old cellar, or should even that be obliterated, sufficient will be left to satisfy any reasonable mind that upon this little islet was erected the first human habitation by the Europeans. Here was the first settlement made by them; and from this little isolated spot the history of the set- tlement of this country by the English or any other European nation takes its date .* It is truly a con- secrated spot, and should henceforth be devoted to the fostering of that noble and adventurous spirit, as well as the kind and friendly relations be- tween mankind, manifested in the intercourse of these hardy adventurers with the natives they here met. In the name and to the memory of Barthol- omew Gosnold, whose bones lie in an unknown grave in Virginia, where he died 22d August, 1607, let it be consecrated. Gosnold's islet has lately come into the possession, by purchase, of Thomas Nye, Jr., of New Bedford.
* As I find no mention in the " Antiquitates Americana " of any building erected by the Northmen, and as no subsequent settlement here was made by them, I conclude this statement to be correct. The Northmen probably lived in their vessels.
122
A small round and castellated form of tower, built of stone in a rude but substantial manner, would be in good keeping with the historical asso- ciations of this spot, which might be called Gos- nold's tower or fort. This, with a flag-staff and, at such times as occupied, with a blue flag spread to the ocean breeze, and inscribed with the name of Gosnold, or 1602, or any other appropriate de- vice, would present a truly picturesque and spirited appearance. The Indian name of this islet was Quawck, and that of the main island now known as Cuttyhunk, Poocutohhunkunnoh. This island contains about five hundred and sixteen acres, and the soil is said to be very fertile; but how changed from the richly wooded sylvan retreat which it offered to its discoverers in 1602, where among the stately trees the deer browsed or at the sight of man bounded away into some fancied place of safety! The lofty promontory running out from the centre of the island to the northward was called by the Indians Copicut, which name it still bears.
On the 31st of May, Capt Gosnold sailed across the bay, and came to an anchor near the shore, not far from the Round Hills. As I have before stated, there are two distinct accounts of this adventure ; and one of these would seem to place their landing not far from Gooseberry Neck, for the journalist speaks of a neck of land which they "imagined had been severed from the main, but finding it otherwise we perceived a broad harbor or river's mouth." This would answer for the mouth of the Acoaxet or Westport River; but as this neck of land
123
was not seen until the close of the day, and as they had been following the coast westward from Round Hill Point, it is quite certain that the first place of their landing on the main was upon the shore at the Round Hills. In a former sketch of this ad- venture, I have represented the scene of the first landing upon the main by Gosnold as within our harbor, having taken this information from others; but by a very careful examination of every point and distance mentioned in the old journals of this voy- age, and the most accurate charts of the bay, I am well satisfied that Gosnold and his company land- ed and traced the coast along as before mentioned, to wit: from the shore near the Round Hills west- ward to Gooseberry Neck. I am thus particular, as it seems desirable that this fact should be estab- lished. With the journals in hand, and a correct map or chart, this can easily be seen.
On the shore Capt. Gosnold was met by a num- ber of natives, men, women and children, "who with all courteous kindness entertained him, giving him certain skins of wild beasts, which may be rich furs, tobacco, turtles, hemp, artificial strings colored, chains, and such like things as at the in- stant they had about them." They returned the same day to the fort. A short time after this visit, and while busily employed upon the house, which they thatched with sedge, they espied eleven canoes with fifty Indians in them approaching the island from that part of the main they had visited; "and being loath they should discover our fortification, we went out on the sea-side to meet them." They
124
appeared very friendly, although armed with their bows and arrows. The day was "spent in trading with them for furs, which are beavers, luzernes, martins, otters, wild-cat skins, (very large and deep fur,) black foxes, coney-skins, of the color of our hares, but somewhat less, deer-skins (very large,) seal-skins, and other beasts' skins to us unknown." These Indians remained three days with Gosnold and his company, retiring every night to a distant part of the main island. The journalist describes the men as much higher in stature than themselves, and of great symmetry of form. Some of them had thin black beards; they also had beards of the hair of beasts; and one of them offered to exchange a beard of this kind with one of the sailors whose beard was of a red color, which "they judged to be none of his own." They saw but three women, whom they described as of low stature, "fat, and very well favored." Their garments were made principally of deer-skin ; and both sexes dressed in a similar manner. The adventurers were delighted with the climate, the beauty of the country, and the fertility of the soil.
Their intention originally was for a part of the company to remain for the purpose of forming a colony, but having loaded their vessel with sassa- fras-root (which at that time was considered val- uable for its medicinal properties) and cedar, those who were expected to remain, thinking the cargo would prove very profitable; for fear of losing their share became discontented, and they finally all left on the 18th of June the same year. The vessel
125
which bore these hardy adventurers to these shores was very small, but the tonnage is not mentioned, probably less than one hundred tons. Her name was the "Concord," and she belonged to Dart- mouth, on the English Channel,
Gosnold sailed from Falmouth, England, March 26th, 1602; landed on Elizabeth Island, or Cutty- hunk, May 24th, 1602; left for England, June 18th, 1602; arrived at Exmouth, on the English Chan- nel, July 20th, 1602; absent 4 months less 6 days.
It is highly probable that the earliest settlers of our old township of Dartmouth came from the English town of the same name, and whence Gos- nold obtained his vessel, the "Concord." On the return of this little vessel to her port, the voyage and discoveries of the adventurers would be a source of much interest and inquiry among the in- habitants. It will also be remembered that in a pre- vious chapter I make mention of the fact that the Speedwell, which sailed in company with the May- flower from Plymouth, put back into Dartmouth, and was there left. These circumstances undoubt- edly excited in the people of this maritime town the spirit of emigration; and it requires but little effort of the imagination to conclude that from this port sailed the first settlers of our old township of Dartmouth.
It does not appear from the journals of Gos- nold's voyage I have made use of that they visit- ed all the Elizabeth Islands, but from the descrip- tion given in the account of Brereton, there is no doubt but that during their stay at Cuttyhunk
P r
1
1.26
they went at least twice to Naushon, which they describe as "greater than they imagined, being sixteen English miles at least in compass." They speak of the soil being " fat and lusty, finding places where the grass grew." "In mid-May we did sow in this island, (for a trial,) in sundry places, wheat, barley, oats, and pease, which in fourteen days were sprung up nine inches and more." *
Of all the Elizabeth Islands, Naushon may be said alone to retain its primeval characteristics. Here the noble forest trees of beech, oak, &c., with the wild grape-vines growing upon them, and the native fallow deer roaming at large, are still to be seen, affording to the lover of nature a scene simi- lar to that which so charmed the eyes of Gosnold and his company more than two centuries and a half ago.
On the afternoon of the 27th of June, 1856, in company with a congenial friend, I visited this isl- and. Leaving New Bedford, in less than two hours our gallant steamer, the "Eagle's Wing," landed us at Hadley's harbor, upon the east end of the isl- and. Our object being to see the natural beauties and productions of this comparatively unmolested
* The sources from which I have deduced these historical facts and reminiscences are: " Bartholomew Gosnold's Letter to his Father, touching his Voyage to Virginia, 1602." "The Relation of Captain Gosnold's Voyage to the North Part of Virginia, Begun the Six-and- Twentieth of March, Anno 42 Elizabethæe Regina, 1602, and Deliv- ered by Gabriel Archer, a Gentleman in the said Voyage." " A Brief and True Relation of the Discovery of the North Part of Virginia, Being a Most Pleasant, Fruitful and Commodious Soil, Made this Present Year 1602, by Captain Bartholomew Gosnold, Captain Bar- tholomew Gilbert, and divers other Gentlemen, their Associates, by the Permission of the Honorable Knight, Sir Walter Raleigh, &c. Written by M. John Brereton, one of the Voyage." London, 1602,
0
127
realm of nature, we at once proceeded into the an- cient woods, where we were soon amply rewarded by a sight of some of the noblest trees and forest ranges we had ever seen. The beeches, oaks and other trees here grow to a large size, many of them undoubtedly of great age. Soon after our entrance we were greeted by the sight of a beautiful fawn, that stood gazing at us from a thicket at a short distance, but quickly bounded away from our view. The island being private property, the native deer are still preserved; but at certain seasons, we re- gret to say, these beautiful and noble creatures are hunted and shot. Naushon is the largest of the Elizabeth Islands, and is about seven miles in length and a mile and a quarter in breadth. It was formerly the property of the Hon. James Bow- doin, a Governor of Massachusetts, by whom it was bequeathed to his nephew, James Bowdoin, and by him bequeathed to his nephew, James Tem- ple Bowdoin, who resided in London. It is
now the property, by purchase, of William W. Swain, of New Bedford, and John M. Forbes, of Milton. The old mansion-house upon this island, which has been for many years the summer resi- dence of the elder proprietor, Mr. Swain, was built by said James Bowdoin, an old bachelor, who died there while seated in his chair. The house was closed for many years, and had the reputation of being haunted, and was occasionally visited from this cause by the curious.
To the natives, this island, as well as the rest of the group, was a favorite resort, both on account of the refreshing ocean breezes of summer and the
128
tempered air of winter, besides affording them the necessaries of life in abundance. To the naturalist, this island affords much attraction. The trees, plants, &c., grow in unusual luxuriance; and we saw a grape-vine, which my companion thought might have dated back to the time of Gosnold, that measured twenty-three inches in circumference six feet from the ground, firmly interlaced with a sturdy beech, each apparently striving for the mastery.
The fine old woods were vocal with the songs of birds, and it was singularly pleasing to hear, on this ocean isle, the familiar notes of the wood-thrush, the veery ( Wilson's thrush,) the yellow-throat, wood- - pewee, &c. So with the plants and flowers which greeted our way. A more genial and heart-moving welcome we could not have desired than was thus afforded us by the bountiful hand of nature.
A melancholy interest is attached to this island in the minds of the readers of the beautiful and in- structive narrative of the heroic life, sufferings, and death of Robert Swain, a talented and accomplished young man, the only son of Mr. Swain, who lies bur- ied in a pleasant and retired spot chosen by himself. Here his exhausted body found its last rest; but the beautiful and noble spirit that invested it dwells in the genial atmosphere of kindred natures.
Sacred the spot where virtue lies! Though we may see his form no more, In vain we say the good man dies; He lives more truly than before.
Passing out of the woods, we stopped upon a rising ground to view the hospitable mansion of Mr. Swain, which stands upon an elevated spot at the
1
1
129
north-east part of the island, commanding a fine view of the broad landscape around, the bay, and the adjoining main. This house, the same before spoken of, is a large old-fashioned mansion, fronting the north, hip-roofed, with several tall chimneys, which with its ample piazzas presents an imposing and agreeable appearance. During the past year (1857) this house has been enlarged by the addition of a wing upon each side, and in other respects materially improved by the proprietors. Mr. Swain is familiarly known as "the governor," but truly he belongs to a more gallant and noble class, the ancient Lords of the Isles; and thus regarding him, we were reminded of the hospitable chieftains visit- ed by Doctor Johnson and his friend Boswell dur- ing their tour among the Hebrides.
Buzzard's Bay lies between north latitude 41 25 and 41 42, and between 70 38 and 71 10 west longitude from Greenwich; from its entrance be- tween Saughkonnet Point and the ledge of rocks that makes off from the west end of Cuttyhunk, known as the "Sow and Pigs," it stretches away north-east-by-north for thirty miles, with an average breadth of seven miles, laving the southern shore of old Dartmouth, beautifully indented by those fine rivers, the Acoaxet, the Pascamanset, and the Acushnet; with Dumpling Rock and the Round Hills on the north, while on the south lies the beautiful and noble group of the Elizabeth Islands. Pleasant must it be to our seafaring brethren, after a long voyage into distant oceans, once more to behold the familiar objects herein described. With
130
a fine ocean breeze, the canvas all spread, the sige nal flying at mast-head, and richly freighted, each moment bringing them nearer to those so near and dear, until the anchor drops in our harbor, every object that meets the eye must extend a welcome. 'The depth of water in our bay is from six to twelve fathoms.
The Elizabeth Islands are sixteen in number. Beginning north-east, the first island is Nonamesset, which is a mile and a quarter long and half a mile broad, and contains three hundred and sixty acres. Tthe soil is said to be as good as that of Naushon. The next, Onkatonka, is three quarters of a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. It is sepa- rated from Nonamesset on the southeast by Had- ley's harbor. Between Nonamesset and Naushon are two small islands called the Buck Islands. Naushon (or Naushaun) lies southwest from On- katonka, separated by a narrow passage. On the south side of Naushon, about midway, is Tarpaulin Cove, which affords good anchorage, being sheltered from all winds except those which blow from east-south-east Ito east. The Weepeckets, three small islands, the largest of which is not a quarter of a mile long, lie about half a mile north from Naushon. The next island west is Pasque, which is a mile and three quarters long and a mile broad, containing a thousand and two acres. South-west of this island is Nashawena, and between them is Quicks Hole, through which is a safe passage into Buzzard's Bay for ships of the largest class. Cuttyhunk is the westernmost of the Eliza-
131
beth Islands, and next to Nashawena. This island is two and a half miles long and three quarters of a mile broad. On the south side of this island, which lies open to the Atlantic, is a celebrated beach covered with stones; these being constantly rolled back and forth by the waves, a booming sound is created, which renders it sublime to the imaginative mind. A little north of Cutty- hunk is Penequese, three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad. This is the island visited by Gosnold, and called by him "Hill's Hap," and from which he took a canoe and carried to Eng- land on his return. Gull Island, a mile east of Penequese, is less than a quarter of a mile long. These islands, together with Martha's Vineyard, Chappequiddick, and No Man's Land, form Dukes County, Mass., so called from the Duke of York, who in 1664 received from his brother, Charles II, a grant of New York, including Long Island, Mar- tha's Vineyard, Nantucket, and the adjacent isl- ands.
The largest of the islands in Buzzard's Bay, not belonging to the Elizabeth Islands, is West's Island, situated on the east side of Sconticut Point, a neck of land which makes out from Fairhaven, and corresponds with Clark's Point on the New Bedford side .* This island is about a mile and a half long, and three quarters of a mile broad. There are several good farms upon it, the soil be- ing very fertile. It was formerly the property of
* Sconticut was the Indian name of Fairhaven.
132
John West, who left it by will to help support the industrious poor of the town of New Bedford, which then included Fairhaven. Since the division of this town in 1812, this island has belonged to Fair- haven. Bird-Island, in the north-east part of this bay, has a lighthouse with a revolving light. Mashno and Ouset, small isles, are situated in the north-east extremity of the bay. Angelica, a very small isle off Sconticut Point, about six miles from New Bedford, makes a very handsome appearance in the summer season from the high green grass growing upon it. The Egg Islands, to which par- ties for fishing go from New Bedford, were so named from the great quantities of gulls' eggs for- merly found upon them.
I am aware that much of the above history does not particularly belong to New Bedford or the old township of Dartmouth, but as connected with our bay, I have made use of it at this time.
For the following additional information relative to the Elizabeth Islands, and the list of explana- tions of Indian names made by the late Judge Da- vis, I am indebted to William W. Swain of this city.
" Naushon was granted to Thomas Mayhew, of Martha's Vineyard, in 1641, by the agent of Lord Stirling. It remained in the Mayhew family 42 years, in the Winthrop family 48 years, and 113 years in the Bowdoin family, and with the present proprietors since 1843. Mayhew extinguished the Indian titles by purchase. To one of the owners of Nonamesset the consideration given was two coats.
133
The following is from the recollections of Sam- uel Robinson, a tenant of Naushon fifty or sixty years ago. If now living [1857] he would be 98.
' During the Revolutionary War about two hun- dred British soldiers were stationed at Tarpaulin Cove for twelve or fourteen months. They built a fort on the east side of the cove, the remains of which are still to be seen. During the war the British came down the bay with eighteen sail of transports and other vessels, and anchored near the Weepeckets. They landed five hundred men, and demanded all the stock there was on the island. Remonstrance or resistance was useless. They marched to the eastern end of the island, and sep- arating, drove the stock to Robinson's Hole, and carried them in boats on board, -say about four- teen hundred sheep, thirty-five head of cattle, and twenty-five horses. Some time after a privateer with two tenders anchored in Hadley's harbor, and stripped the island of what stock the fleet left, -- perhaps seventy or eighty sheep, some calves, &c., allowing Mr. Robinson's father first to shear the wool, as it would be of no use to them, and also to retain his cows upon condition he would faith- fully deliver up all the sheep, which he did, and worked hard to save the wool.'"
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.