USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Winthrop > The history of Winthrop, Massachusetts ; 1630-1952 > Part 24
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carried out at Fort Health-about which nothing can be printed or even discussed.
Beyond the old Winthrop Beach Station of the former Nar- row Gauge, the Beach runs along to the base of Cottage Hill- or Great Head, as the abbreviated drumlin is properly known. This was one of the first real estate developments in Winthrop, after Playstead and Ocean Spray, and the houses now stand on relatively small lots of land. Many of them are small and of the cottage type, being in part summer cottages made over into per- manent homes. The great steel standpipe, atop Great Head, dominates not only the Beach but the entire town, being the first part of Winthrop to come up over the horizon for sailors running westward in from the Atlantic Ocean.
Below and beyond Great Head is the narrow stretch of Point Shirley Beach, formerly washed over by surf in every major storm but now well protected by a sea wall-which wall, in fact, now runs almost unbroken all the way from Short Beach, in Beachmont, around the Highlands along Winthrop Beach, around Great Head and down the length of Point Shirley.
The oldest part of Winthrop in the point of occupancy other than farming, the Point has continued mostly a summer section until very recently. There have always been a few year 'round residents, of course, but it is only yesterday that the section was transformed from its three centuries as a summer colony to a permanent residential section. There are still a number of sum- mer cottages, some of them not large in size, although they are rapidly being removed or rebuilt.
Probably, the distinguishing feature of modern Winthrop, the feature which became fixed by 1900, was the limitation of entry and egress to just two roads. This was the natural geog- raphy caused by the fact that three-quarters of Winthrop is bordered by ocean and harbor while the other quarter is salt marsh. The original road in and out of town was the barrier beach reaching over to Beachmont. For years this was a narrow and often badly surf-washed road, called the "Missing Link", be- cause the boulevard coming over from Revere Beach did not connect with the Beach Boulevard in Winthrop.
When the "Missing Link" was finally built, providing a dou- ble road,-the outer for pleasure cars, the inner and lower road for commercial traffic,-Winthrop had a first class road available out of town for the first time in 300 years.
The other road was that over the bridge at Belle Isle Inlet, which formerly ran parallel with the Narrow Gauge trestle bridge. Both were low and closed the waters of Belle Isle Inlet to yachts at high tide, so that Beachmont could not sail its few pleas-
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ure boats in and out under the bridge save at half tide. When the tide was all the way out, the Inlet was so shallow that it was not navigable at all.
This bridge, whose history has been previously related, is even today a more or less patch-work affair. Some ten years ago, it was planned to build a new road and a new bridge from Orient Heights, as the old bridge was in poor condition. How- ever, Fritz Westlin, superintendent of streets, repaired the bridge so very well that it is still giving good service and it seems likely that it will continue to do so for years to come, although inade- quate for the traffic it carries.
Perhaps if industrial development had been (or is for that matter) permitted, the salt marsh between Belle Isle Inlet and Fort Banks would have been filled in. Then other roads might have been built to meet the road between Beachmont and Orient Heights. If the projected development plans for the Revere and Boston side of Belle Isle Inlet ever come to fruition (the area is well filled in now) then Winthrop's marsh may be developed also. As a point of fact, since Belle Isle Inlet has been filled in under Suffolk Downs and the oil farms in Revere, there is no longer any value in keeping the creek open between Beachmont and Winthrop, for it is now nothing more than a drainage ditch and gradually filling in itself. Undoubtedly the development when it comes, especially in Boston, will be industrial, now that the plan for a Venetian village, with each little home bordering on a canal, has been abandoned. William J. McDonald, genius of the Boston Port Development Company, largely the man who originated the placing of the oil farms and Suffolk Downs, has passed away and future development of the marsh will be less imaginative and more realistic.
While Winthrop was thus by 1910 clearly divided into at least eight sections-or perhaps more truly into four parts- Highlands, Beach, Center and the Point-the town was main- tained as a unit by two things. First, and the factor which is still operative, the Town is so very small that people know each other personally to a much greater degree than is ordinary in an urban bedroom. The second factor was that everyone for many years used the same transportation. Today the buses and private cars have ended this means of unity but while the Nar- row Gauge operated, men and women met each other several times a week at least and thus the town was tied together by hundreds of individuals who knew each other well. Indeed, the place of the village store, which was the original forum of the small New England town, was taken over in good part by the ferries. The after deck, sheltered from the wind and the weather,
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was a sort of club room where, night and morning, men on their way to and from their work in Boston, discussed and in good part settled the town's business. In the cabins, the women folks gossiped similarly and although they did not vote until after the suffrage amendment, they had just as much influence over the way their men voted back in 1900-1915 as they always had and have.
On May 27, 1912, the people of the town were notified that Old Winthrop was coming to an end and that New Winthrop was beginning. Of course no one knew that this was the case; the announcement simply said that an old elm down near the Thornton Station must be cut down. The newspaper accounts did not mention that the elm concerned was the famed Gibbons elm which is believed to have been planted at the time the Gib- bons homestead was erected just about 300 years before. This famed tree, which reached tremendous size, having a circum- ference at breast height of about fifteen feet, had been ailing for a long while. Its branches were broken and brittle and since houses had been built near it, these branches presented a hazard. In any heavy wind they might come crashing down. So, for safety's sake, since repairs were no longer practical, it was con- sidered best by the town to remove the tree. With the passing of this tree, went one of the last links with the colonial days. A large number of people visited the tree during its last days and numerous requests were made for chunks of wood as mem- entoes. Many of the mourners came on the Narrow Gauge and used the Thornton Station. Not one of the passengers could have known that the railroad itself was doomed to extinction, also. Winthrop when the Gibbons elm came down, passed from childhood into maturity. How long the town's maturity will continue, perhaps the history written in 2052 will be able to forecast.
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22 JUNE 1912. At the junction of Winthrop St., Pleasant St. and Washington Ave., looking north, during ceremony preparatory to cutting down the "Gibbons' Elm" shown at left of photo. The Gibbons' homestead of 1640 stood where the spectators are at the upper right in the photo and was torn down during the nineteenth century.
30 MAY 1910. G.A.R. Veterans in Memorial Day parade on Winthrop St. crossing Buchanan St. Second veteran from left is Charles Hall and fourth is Asa Capen. On the right is John McNaught, one time custodian of Old Town Hall. The girls with bouquets are the Misses Gibbons and McNaught.
WORLD WAR ONE
In August of 1914 World War One began in actuality what the dropping of the Gibbons elm presaged. There was of course no indication of this in the town's behavior, for Europe was far away in those days before airplane trans-Atlantic crossings and atom bombs. We were seated comfortably at the ringside and few had fears at first that we would be involved. So in 1914 Winthrop went its usual placid way. There were 186 new build- ings constructed that year, sidewalks and streets were paved, and a new bridge was built over Belle Isle Inlet at a cost of $45,517. The prevention of dust by the use of oil on the streets was actually an object of concern; the Selectmen wanted $2,300 but the Town Meeting provided only $1,500. Another point of great concern was whether or not all the Town property should be covered by an individual series of insurance policies or by one blanket policy. The supporters of the blanket policy won out as they proved that they would save the Town $594.84. The collec- tion of ashes was even then a vexed item of town business al- though it amounted to only about $2.00 a year per house-about four cents a week. One point that, strangely enough, caused much argument was the action of the Town in retiring the horse drawn fire engine for a motor vehicle. Opponents of the change claimed the motor truck could not be depended upon to start; proponents said the truck would start if properly managed and claimed the advantage in speed overcame all objections. Any- how the change was made and the two horses were given to the Park Department and the Street Department respectively. It was not considered decent to sell the horses to private hands for fear they would be abused. Meanwhile, the conflagration in Europe was spreading.
In 1915, the Town still continued on its easy, careful way, the town officials talking about economy but, unlike at other periods, really being economical and having the interest of the town at heart. For example, in reporting upon a concrete wall on Locust Street, the Selectmen asserted that the cost was high but pointed out that in reality the wall was a good investment and ended danger of law suits which had been threatened. Just so, the Selectmen declared that the sea wall along Shirley Street beyond the Winthrop Yacht Club was "a first class construction .. . and would serve for many years". It is still in service today, 37 years after. Much was said about continuing the program of road building and of the value received for the money spent. It is to be remembered that some 90 percent of Winthrop's streets then were dirt roads and only the main streets were
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hard-surfaced, oil-bound gravel. The Selectmen agreed that such roads were expensive to build but pointed out that the citizens demanded good, dust-free, all weather roads, especially since the automobile was "becoming more common". When town officials spent money they had good reason and obtained good value. It was this habit of genuine public service by both elected and appointed public officials which distinguished Winthrop- as it does today-and it is one of the reasons why the Town has enjoyed a comparatively low tax-rate. Few towns, even in New England, have been as well managed and served so well by its officials as Winthrop. Our town rates very high financially and our history is most pleasingly free from any taint of cor- ruption. Any citizen can always be proud to say, "I come from Winthrop !".
However, this year of 1915, the first shadow of the War in Europe was cast over the Town. Agitation of preparedness had swept over the United States and the Militia was being refur- bished and enlarged. Two military companies were accordingly formed in Winthrop: the Winthrop Machine Gun Company and a detachment of the Mounted Scouts. Winthrop was the first town in the State to have a machine gun company. The town financed these two organizations but was reimbursed by the State in large part. Both companies obtained full membership quickly and a waiting list was established for late-registrants.
The following year, 1916, war was very near and the Win- throp Machine Gun Company, then under the command of First Lieutenant Richmond G. Stoehr, was called into action along with the Mounted Scouts at the Mexican Border. The Selectmen officially commended Winthrop's 61 young men who were sent to the border for "their remarkable record of efficiency and high standing ... ". Meanwhile the town went along as always, build- ing new roads, sea-walls and maintaining schools, town depart- ments and the rest at their usual high level. Rising costs upset the budget by $500 and the Selectmen pointed out that despite the high level of general prosperity, poor relief charges remained about the same as before, having been kept down only by the most careful scrutiny of all applications for aid. The war was making itself felt in rising costs and in scarcity of labor. The town dug down liberally into its pockets to support the many war activities which were being established-Liberty Bonds, War Savings Stamps, Red Cross, war gardens, food conserva- tion (Hooverizing) and all the rest.
It was in 1918 that the full impact of the war was felt. A summary was given by the Selectmen, as follows, in part: "During the last 18 months, many of our Citizens have entered
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the (armed) Services to the number ... 1100. Many of them going overseas and in desperate encounters, the balance holding themselves in readiness to follow, we have a great deal to be thankful for that no more of them had to face the enemy, many of them did, however, and faced them bravely, but we deeply regret there are some of them that will never return and we wish to impress forcibly upon you all that for those who do return too much cannot be done for them. . . . "
THE TWENTIES
By 1920 Winthrop had fairly well put the War behind it- self-as much as any war can ever be forgotten in such a short time-and the town was busy worrying about higher costs. Wages were going up in a futile essay to keep pace with the rising cost of living. There were demands for higher wages for school teachers and other town employees. In a word, things were getting back to normal. No new streets were built because of the high cost of materials for the town tried with all its strength to preserve its tax rate of $24.50, one of the lowest in the state. Grading and resurfacing was carried along as it was felt that it was poor economy to allow streets to fall into too great disrepair. As the Selectmen pointed out, however, "The unfortunate necessity of building two new schools the past year, together with the most unusual times ... have made us approach the 3% debt limit and we will necessarily have to continue our plans and work with caution. The considerable increase in the Town's valuation now brings it to $18,229,450, a satisfactory figure. The population of the Town by the 1920 National Census is 15,455."
On October 19, 1920, the Town suffered a grave loss in the passing of Winthrop Magee. He served as Selectman 16 times and also as Representative to the General Court twice. He was memorialized officially as one of the great servants of the Town.
By 1922, however, street work could be no longer postponed, because autos were becoming numerous and holes in the streets were becoming objectionable and dangerous. So a considerable road repair project was carried out, including the repair of Main Street which had been in poor shape for several years.
From time to time there have always been, and probably al- ways will be, difficulties between owners of land abutting on the water and people wishing to use the beaches. It was this year that the Town settled one of these quarrels by spending $250 and acquiring title to the land and flats at the end of Bart- lett Road. This ended that street-end-shore controversy and se-
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cured to the people of the town the right to use the beach without question.
Because of the increased costs, the tax rate was lifted to $27.60 amid howls of anguish and with explanations by the town officials that it cost more to run the Town just as it cost more for the protesting individuals to run their households. The Selectmen on this point said, "The Town of Winthrop still stands ... in a good position, financially ... having one of the lowest tax rates of like municipalities and being advanced above the average in school buildings, streets, sidewalks, sewerage, drainage and water works . .. and such material things."
In 1923 finances was still the problem of the Town. Citizens demanded better streets, more sidewalks and all the rest but objected to the tax rate being raised. So, as always, a sort of compromise was followed out by the town officials: really im- portant work, such as repairs, was carried along, while a small percentage of the new construction demanded was carried out. It was this year of 1923 that the "Missing Link" was finally completed and opened for traffic. The Selectmen reported that it was "a much needed and long sought improvement" but then, typically, added “. .. however, it opens up some new problems : 1st, we must pay $45,000 towards the expense, 2nd, the widen- ing of Revere Street seems to follow ... as a necessity, 3rd, the influx of traffic in the summer into our peninsula will make seri- ous problems, 4th, (the resurfacing and drainage of) Revere Street from the north end of the Upland Road to the Revere City Line requires rebuilding." Everyone wanted the "Missing Link" built and struggled for some 20 years to have the Metro- politan District Commission do the job but after the link was built, everyone regretted the fact because of the extra costs and the new problems resulting.
Indeed, Winthrop because of its official carefulness in man- agement was in excellent shape. Things were so well in 1924 that the Selectmen issued an official pat on the back for the Town, saying: "We feel proud that our Town is in the front rank in the towns of the State in regard to streets, schools, finances, fire apparatus and policing. Our school facilities, with the addi- tion of the new Junior High School, rank second to none. . .. Our low tax rate, and our ability to stay within our borrowing capacity, has made the town financially sound. With the addi- tion of the new pump, our Fire Department is completely motor- ized and modern in every way. ... Our population ... for 1924 is 15,540 ; our valuation $21,458,000 and our tax rate $26.50."
There was one sour note in the situation, however, and this received official recognition in 1925 when the Selectmen pointed
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out that the Town Hall was both too small and too old. Of course nothing could be done about it immediately or, the follow- ing year, when there was plenty of talk and general agreement that something must be done. The town continued to grow and to share in the general prosperity that was blessing the nation. Revere Street was widened so that six vehicles could pass abreast and other streets were re-surfaced and sidewalks and sewers were constructed to meet pressing demands. Still a tight rein was kept on expenditures and the tax rate rose but 50 cents while in other towns it went up to a much greater degree.
During 1927 it was finally determined that a new Town Hall had to be built and a committee headed by Elmer Dawson, one of the most valuable public servants the Town has been fortunate to have, went to work, selecting a site on Hermon Street flanking the Library. Plans, architects and contracts required this unpaid committee to devote a great amount of time and labor. It has been the work of public-spirited com- mittees such as this one that has given the Town such an ex- cellent establishment and provided such remarkably good and economical government. The Town has always been fortunate in having men willing to sacrifice themselves for the good of the community. This year also saw the completion of the Great Head Sea Wall at a cost of $75,000. The wall was so built that, if ever desired, a 40 foot street can be run along between the wall and the foot of the cliff.
For the first time in many years, transportation ills became very serious. There had been troubles, as everyone remembers but, no one realized how serious the Narrow Gauge's plight really was until its sale was announced prior to electrification in 1926. The Selectmen urged the townspeople to regard the transportation situation seriously, pointing out that the railroad was all the public transport the town had and that most of the town, working in Boston, was desperately dependent upon the well-being of the road. The hope was expressed that electrifi- cation would help the road but a somewhat pessimistic attitude was expressed. Of interest was the fact that, despite the highest level of prosperity the State had ever enjoyed, the town's public welfare burden continued to mount each year and the Selectmen warned that conditions would probably be such that more and more tax money would be required as the years went along. Despite all these expenses, however, the town was able to lower its tax rate by 50 cents-which pleased everyone.
During the next year, 1928, the last of the boom period al- though no one knew it, things went along smoothly. The New Town Hall was under construction, a re-zoning of the Town was
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worked upon and the electrification of the Narrow Gauge did result in more rapid and better services as had been hoped. The Point Shirley Street Railway was abandoned and bus service substituted and everyone concerned was delighted although the old "Toonerville Trollies" as they were called, had become a picturesque feature of the Point that some people were loath to lose. In announcing the Town valuation at $25,654,300 and the tax rate at $26.70, the assessors were quick to add that the average tax rate in 1928 for the 40 cities and towns in the Bos- ton Metropolitan District was $29.37.
Then came 1929 and the beginning of the Great Depression. Of course, it was not reflected in the official business of the Town-that year. Indeed, the Town was never more prosperous. A committee was appointed, with Frank K. Hatfield as chairman, to represent Winthrop in the forthcoming Tercentenary Cele- bration with the plan that Winthrop should take a very active part in the observances. The New Town Hall was officially accepted by the Selectmen in September and the old town hall site was leased to the United States Postoffice, which planned to erect a modern postoffice, something badly needed.
The new Town Hall, the projected new Postoffice and an awakened interest in re-planning the town's civic center caused other alterations in Metcalf Square, named for Richard Metcalf, who was one of the first Winthrop boys killed in World War One. He was the only son of Dr. Ben Hicks Metcalf, a very prominent physician and active and influential in Town for many years. He founded the Metcalf Hospital which subsequently became the Winthrop Community Hospital. The Square was re-landscaped, the monuments were re-located, new walks were laid out, and the unsightly electric light and telephone poles were removed, the wires being laid underground. Subsequently, the old Metho- dist Church across the Square was replaced by the present gracious brick building of classic Colonial design. Thus the Town's civic center has become one of such beauty that Win- throp has something more of which to be proud.
THE DEPRESSION YEARS
The first year of the Depression found most of Winthrop, save those who by then were unemployed or otherwise suffering from the economic debacle, unaware of what had happened. High Federal officials continued to issue statements that "prosperity was just around the corner" and even the best informed citizens believed that certainly the trouble would not long continue. It was considered patriotic to assume that the worst was "already over" and to act as if things were just about to return to normal.
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However, there was unemployment and consequent suffer- ing in Winthrop during 1930 and a committee known as the Emergency Committee on Unemployment was formed, largely as a sort of registry at which unemployed men could learn of odd jobs available within the town. The Welfare Department found itself faced with a staggering load and Mrs. Marion John- son, in charge of that work, under the Selectmen, found her work very difficult because when the budget was set up for the year, the Selectmen and the Advisory Board had no idea of the great increase in expenses which was to develop. Similarly, the Soldiers' Relief and Military Aid Department, in charge of Charles A. Hagman (who, incidentally has served the town as Clerk of the Board of Selectmen from 1920 through the present time-one of the longest unbroken terms of service in the his- tory of the Town) found the burden of its work greatly increased.
However, the usual work of the Town was operated at about the same level as before with considerable work being done in street building and maintenance, sewer construction, edgestones and the like. The Winthrop Tercentenary Committee, led by Frank K. Hatfield, represented Winthrop very creditably in the Boston observance commemorating 300 years of the area's exis- tence. In addition, the Winthrop Community Hospital began construction of its present building, the old wooden properties which were the original Metcalf Hospital being hopelessly over- crowded. A limited campaign for funds was undertaken to raise the $50,000 additional required to meet the cost of construction above the amount raised in the original fund campaign in 1926. During the year, the town lost two of its well-known servants : James Stewart Carr, selectman from 1913 through 1917, died on May 29; George Douglas, town accountant for 28 years to 1930, died September 18.
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