USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > Truro > Truro-Cape Cod; or, Land marks and sea marks > Part 35
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Somebody has said that, "From Truro to Provincetown is the Venice of New England, and as unlike anything else as the city of gondolas is unlike the other capitals of Italy."
In 1854, the Legislative Committee, under Governor Wash- burn, made a full and able report of the right of the Common- wealth in the Province lands, and the importance of Cape Cod Harbor and its protection. They suggested the joint action of Truro, the State, and the General Government. They recommended the building of Beach Point bridge, and " that the Government disburse its means with a liberal hand for the preservation of one of the most important harbors in the United States."
The Legislature passed an act for the protection of cran- berry vines in the Province lands.
In 1817, the towns on the Cape petitioned the Postmaster- general for a mail twice a week to Brewster, and if practicable, to Provincetown. At this time the mails were carried by a solitary footman. As late as 1832, the mails were carried to
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Provincetown by the Post-boy, twice a week. When a one- horse wagon and three times a week was reached, we thought the post-office department capable of marvellous expansion.
Just after the Revolutionary War, some of the men who had moved from Truro to the Kennebec, finding in the fall more potatoes than money, loaded a vessel and came to Truro for a market. The harbor soon froze up, and remained sealed like a bottle till spring. At the earliest chance they started for home, where they arrived just in season to attend their own funeral services. Not a word had been heard from them since leaving home, and their friends concluded they had been lost, and mourned for them accordingly.
In 1858, the Cape Cod Telegraph Company was incor- porated ; this was regarded a great step; but the next year the Boston and Cape Cod Marine Telegraph Company built a line in competition, so that instead of the old mail coach climbing the sand hills all the way around the Cape, rival lines almost fought for the privilege of flashing the news, and no sooner was a ship recognized from the Highland, than the merchant in Boston received the news.
The final blow from which the town never recovered, was the breaking up of the Union Company's store. This was an unincorporated company, each shareholder being responsible for the obligations to the full amount, or to his last dollar, a fact they all understood better in the end. The superintend- ent, Mr. Elkanah Paine 2d, was a very agreeable, enterprising, and popular man. The cooperation of the stockholders gave it almost unbounded influence in the community. A large and apparently flourishing business was carried on for many years. The stockholders were satisfied without investigation, so long as ten per cent. per annum was paid. The company bought and sold, and borrowed and loaned, but in the day of reckoning it was found hopelessly in debt, and was placed in the court of equity. The responsible stockholders were obliged to pay a sum fully equal to the amount of their paid-up stock, to free themselves from the debts.
Going to Boston by land was less common than a voyage
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THE TIDE TURNED.
to China. It must be the king's business that demanded such an outlay of time and capital. Excepting the mails, carriage by water was the only recognized connection with Boston. Hence the " packet " carly became almost a personality. My history would be imperfect without some reference thereto.
I cannot learn that any one vessel was engaged in this traffic till after the War of 1812. Yet I have no reasonable doubt that there was some periodical connection many years before. The first regularly-established packet of which I have authen- tic information, was the pinkey Comet, Captain Zoheth Rich. In about 1830, Captain Rich and his friends determined to build a first-class packet. The result was the schooner Post- boy, the finest specimen of naval architecture, and of passen- ger accommodation, in the Bay waters. Her cabin and furni- ture were finished in solid mahogany and bird's-eye, and silk draperies. She was the admiration of the travelling public; all that had been promised in a first-class packet, and was often crowded to overflowing with passengers. Captain Rich, better known at home as Captain Zoheth, knew the way to Bos- ton in the darkest night, and could keep his passengers good- natured with a head wind. He could laugh as heartily at an old story as a new one, and was always a good listener. Good lis- teners have many secrets. One of the most popular women in Europe could not communicate a perfectly finished sentence, but she could keep a secret, and was consulted more on im- portant interests than all the rest. The captain of the Post- boy was not a fluent man, nor of a vivid imagination. His vocabulary was limited to the fewest monosyllabic words, which he used with miserly economy, cutting them short in a quick, hurried, inimical style ; then as if impressed that he had not done full justice to his subject, he would repeat his. first words still more quickly, and with more marked emphasis.
The first day from Boston was always a busy one, and the captain was on the alert. People would soon begin to inquire, "Captain Zoheth, when do you go to Boston again?" "I think we'll go Wens'dy, wind and weather permit'n ; yes, go to Bost'n about Wens'dy," They knew well enough that the Post-boy never went to Boston on that declaration ;
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none expected it. The next day the same question would be asked, with this answer, "Goin' to-morrer, if can get out the harbor ; go to-morrer." " To-morrer " was sure to bring a scant tide, and scant wind, and the packet would not move.
Somebody was now sure to say, " Why, Capt'n, you didn't go to Boston to-day." "No, didn't get out ; divlish low tide, and head wind." "Well, when are you going ?" The last said, perhaps, with a slight impatience. "The Pis-by will go to Bost'n to-morrer; yes, sir, the Pis-by will go to Bost'n to-mor- rer, wind or no wind, tide or no tide, by gracious !" Now it was well understood the packet would go to Boston to-mor- row. Early the next morning the captain would be seen coming with his little black-leather trunk that always meant business ; long before highwater the colors floated at the top- mast head, the signal for Boston ; and the Post-boy went to Boston, just about the time the captain intended, and when from the first it was understood she would go. I do not mean to say this was the captain's rule, by no means ; when business was good, he made quick trips, and never stood on the order of going or coming ; but there are scores now living, who well remember the Post-boy, Captain Zoheth, and his nervous Anglo-Saxon.
Never were travellers more happy or content than on the Post-boy. Never since the Canterbury Tales was social free- dom and story-telling better practised or enjoyed. She sailed on no time-table. Passengers well understood at the start, that a few hours, or a few days, might be required, and that the stock of stores and stories would hold out. They knew that the interest and pleasure of the trip depended upon the good- feeling and comfort of their fellow-passengers, who, when at home, were mostly neighbors and townsmen. Here was sure to be some Marco Polo captain, who had killed elephants in India or seen the Brahma's great white bull. Some Western adventurer, who discoursed of steamboat races, herds of buffalo, and Indians. Here were the home traders, discussing the price of sugar, eggs, and palm-leaf hats. Skippers talked of mackerel and codfish. If the sail flapped idly against the mast, somebody had been becalmed in the Indian Ocean for
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THE TIDE TURNED.
weeks, without a cat's-paw on the face of the water, or had run down the trade winds from the Windward Islands to the Equator, without starting his topgallant studding-sail brace; or, like the flying Dutchman, had beaten for weeks off Cape Horn. There was no monopoly or obtrusiveness in all this freedom of conversation. Each told their experience, or listened with interest and pleasure to the rest, and all sought with unaffected good-nature to please and profit.
The few travellers, visiting the Cape for health, pleasure or profit, for the first time, were drawn towards these people. Social conventionalities, wealth, birth and education melted their narrow partitions in this genial atmosphere, and, not unfrequently, those who met as strangers separated as life- long friends.
Captain Rich retired from packeting at the decline of the business, and spent the remainder of his days, till threescore and ten, in his snug little home, which for nice keeping was a gem. No grass was greener, no garden cleaner, no grapes larger, and no horse or cow fatter than his. For many years he shared the fellowship of the Church, died in her faith, and was gathered unto his fathers.
Thoreau says of his stage ride on the Cape, "I was struck by the pleasant equality which reigned among the company, and their broad and invulnerable good humor. They were what is called free and easy, and met one another to advan- tage, as men who had, at length, learned how to live. They appeared to know each other when they were strangers ; they were so simple and downright. They were well met, in an unusual sense ; that is, they met as well as they could meet, and did not seem to be troubled with any impediment. They were not afraid nor ashamed of one another, but were con- tented to make just such a company as the ingredients al- lowed. It was evident that the same foolish respect was not here claimed for mere wealth and station that is in many parts of New England.
Captain Richard Stevens was for many years a popular and gentlemanly packet master. He first ran the Young Tell, then built the Mail, and last the fine schooner Modena. Hc
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was also connected with the steamer Naunshon that ran sev- eral years between Boston and Provincetown. Captain Stevens was a pleasant gentleman. With the travelling pub- lic he was proverbially a popular man, affable and attentive. He not only desired to accommodate and make his passengers comfortable, but he knew how to do it. He was a good neigh- bor, friend and citizen ; represented the town in the Legisla- ture and enjoyed other positions of trust. Quite late in life he received the appointment of wharfinger at the North End, and moved to Somerville, where he died in 1870, aged sixty- eight years.
CHAPTER XXV.
LAND MARKS AND SEA MARKS.
Old Acquaintances. Hic Facet. Emigration. Roof Tree. Citizenship. Changes. Population. Summer Resorts. 1830 Massachusetts Gazateer. Banner Town. Prospect. Possibilities. Prophetic Lens. Old Pictures. Salt Mills. Salt Works. Salt Fish. Salt Water. Salt. Well-preserved. Picturesque Town. Flemish Picture. Profane Visitor. One Horse with one Eye. Stone vs. Fish. No Road. Doctor Davy and Penzance. Carts and Carpets. Paths and Pilots. A Road that Needed no Sprinkling. United States Surplus under Feet. Lost Feet. Railroad. Mackerel Fleet. Salt Industry. Consumption and Supply. Mills and Castles. Sancho Panza. Dramatis Persona. The Grist Mill. The Old Miller. Golden Meal. Mills of the Gods. Chatham. A Whig Platform. Corn Laws. In Memoriam.
R ETURNING from a walk my mother said, " Have you been to call upon old acquaintances ?" " Yes, in the graveyard." Not only the old land marks and sea marks and old customs, but the good old people are fast passing away. I stood by the graves of four men born about the same year, in the same little neighborhood, almost one hundred years ago. As boys, they were together early inured to toil and the discipline of the times. For forty and fifty years, by diverg- ing paths, they sailed to and fro, and up and down the world, meeting a full share of the hardships and misfortunes inci- dental to their calling. Having gained a little competence, once more, and at about the same time, they began to draw their furrows afield, and realize the dream of their lives, to enjoy undisturbed at home a peaceful old age. Together they met on the Sabbath in the same church, and in the same social and religious circle, till threescore and ten, and fourscore, brings them with their companions side by side in
449
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the same graveyard, and each grave marked by a white stone. Standing there, I said, " How short the journey ! only a few steps from the place of birth to the final rest; just from the valley to the hilltop. The swallow could scale it with steady wing, and yet, how long the march ; how many star- less nights and toilsome days in these few steps from the cradle to the grave."
Lovely and fair is the morning, Bright is God's glorious sun ; But weary spirits rest at eve, When the long, long day is done.
For a quarter century the tide of migration increased, till it became almost a panic. It would be safe to say all have not bettered their condition. Many families have been swept away who were valuable citizens, in the enjoyment of com- fortable homes and influence, who have been swallowed up under new experiences. The old roof-tree, however humble, gathers around it so many cheap home comforts and blessings, so many pleasant social and religious relations, without dis- tinction, that once cut off, the new life becomes a race with multiplied necessities, while barren to the heart. These remarks apply more to the middle-aged and past. The young have a fair field, and though few may win high position, yet every man is responsible that his citizenship shall be secured, and his good name a legacy which is often better than lands or bonds. Some of the Cape towns have been reduced more than half, Truro among the number ; but as the majority are now much less depending upon fishing, and will be less likely to break up, the town is about holding her own, and better days may be in store. I have counted fourteen houses in a little neighborhood nestled prettily enough for an artist's pencil. For forty years not a house had been added or removed. The boy who left at twenty might have returned like Enoch Arden, with the marks of age, and though empires had been blotted out, mighty States marched into line, and the map of the world changed, yet not a change in its ham- let. The next turn of the road opened another picture, where
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LAND MARKS AND SEA MARKS.
I counted a dozen houses, and in imagination, a dozen more, that had been moved away within as many years. The popu- lation of Truro in 1794 was 1320, with 165 dwellings; in 1850, population 2051 ; in 1860, 1883; in 1870, 1269; in 1880 less than 1000. Over one hundred families from Truro now reside in Somerville ; thirty from Doctor Noble's church.
I have said better days may be in store. As always in the past so in the future, the Cape will hold her interest in fishing. The modes may change. Some of the towns may decline still further, other points will increase, possibly the shore fisheries may cut a not unimportant figure. It is reasonably certain, however, that the aggregate product of the Cape fisheries will not decline. But a glance at the map before you, showing the geographical position, configuration and connection by land and water with Boston and New York, is better than any statement or argument, that Cape Cod is by nature wonderfully adapted for, and must become more and more, a summer resort. The Cape is not convenient for daily connection, but thousands of familes seek more distant places at great expense and inconvenience, to spend the season or a vacation. The advantages of the Cape for health, rest, pure air, pure water, sea bathing, wholesome food, moderate expense, general comfort and comparative convenience of access, must be better understood, till her breezy headlands, clean-washed shores and healthful hills and valleys are well dotted.
The last few years Provincetown has drawn a good many visitors. With accommodations and conveniences commen- surate with her natural attractions, a few years will place her among the great popular resorts of New England. This requires both public and private enterprise, which will repay at least tenfold in the present life.
The best fishing points, with good harbors, are everywhere becoming the most desirable summer resorts. Torquay (Torkee), a favorite and fashionable watering-place, pictur- esquely located on a cove in sight of old Dartmoor, with a population of twenty-five thousand, was, twenty-five years
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"ago, a thriving fishing village. This is true of many other places in England and France.
[From the Massachusetts Gazateer, March, 1830.]
A daily stage goes down the Cape as far as Orleans, and from there every other day a wagon proceeds to Provincetown which might convey two or three passengers. From that place packets run at irregular but not long intervals to Boston in a few hours (if a fair wind). I do not doubt that the excursion when the route becomes better known, will become quite common, and as the travel is increasing the means of transportation will be improved. Should it become sufficient to require a steamboat from Provincetown to Boston, I can hardly think of a route that would be more likely to interest and profit a large part of the community.
Could the professor have looked through a prophetic lens, he would have seen in the not far-away future, the swift-footed, crowded steamers that now run almost daily to Provincetown
HIGH POLE HILL - PROVINCETOWN, 1870.
through all the fine weather, and the two daily trains, that in spite of wind or weather, blaze along the shores and through the hills, challenging with sharp whistle the hoarse thug of the ocean.
The census of 1870 shows a loss in every town in the county, Provincetown excepted. From the least and youngest, she has become the banner-town. Perched out on a crest of allu- vial sand and almost cut off, she has fairly outrivalled the old towns of Barnstable and Sandwich, with good farms and wide domain.
From the farthest point of Sandwich to the city in the sand
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LAND MARKS AND SEA MARKS.
may have a literal interpretation. At present, 1878, a tempo- rary cloud overshadows her prosperity. But with one of the best harbors on the coast, with diversified fishing interests, with coastwise and considerable local business, with energy, enterprise, sufficient wealth and a great growing country, what can prevent a rapid return of business.
Provincetown is well conditioned to largely increase her fisheries. No town in New England more so. The rapid expansion of the country must create an increasing demand for fish products at remunerative prices. An interest that developed the country and balanced its destiny when the population was a million, that has been well sustained during a century of extreme vicissitudes, cannot decline with a popu- lation of fifty millions, if the fish hold out. History shows that not the wealth of a few build up, but that united effort, liberal policy and intelligent labor will win golden victories. To keep capital and business talent at home, and to expand home interests, are vital considerations. She has great advan- tages and has had large experience; these well improved, and this century will close upon the most flourishing sea coast town in the State. The decline of some towns is as much a law as their growth. To fight destiny is foregone defeat. The reverse is true of this town. There may be contingencies as in all business, but for a series of years, all the conditions being equal, the cod fisheries are full of promise, and Provincetown will sow and reap.
Forty years ago the shores of Provincetown were lined with wind-mills, called in the vernacular, "salt-mills," used for pumping ocean water into the hundreds of acres of " salt works " that completely flanked the town and came up almost into their houses and bed-chambers. What with the salt ocean rolling on the back side, the salt bay washing the front, the thousands of hogsheads of pure salt crystallizing in shal- low vats or high piled in storehouses, waiting market, and miles of salt codfish curing in the autumnal sun, Province- town could lay good claim to being a well-preserved commu- nity. A view of the town is better worth seeing from any approach than hundreds of places of wider fame, but fifty
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years ago an approach at highwater from Truro, the only land communication, was a rare view.
The quaint village hugging the crescent shore for three miles, hundreds of mills from the shore, wharves and hill-tops
.L
PROVINCETOWN FIFTY YEARS AGO.
all in lively motion and commotion, the tall spars of the ves- sels in port, the steep hills rising like huge earth-works of de- fence, and the low sandy point half-coiled around the harbor, anchored at the tip by the lighthouse of old Darby fame, was a sight that could be seen nowhere else in this land, and was more like the old Dutch and Flemish pictures of Hobbema and Van Ostade than anything I have seen. About this time a profane visitor wrote in a weekly newspaper, “ Houses, salt- works, and curiously-built hovels, for uses unknown, are mixed up together. It would seem that the God of the infi- dels, which they call chance, had a hand in this mysterious jumble." The citizens properly resented this fling at their practical architecture, and intimated they knew their own business.
In 1829, the Provincetown minister, Mr. Stone, said to Dr. Cornell, then a Wellfleet schoolmaster, "Would you believe that there is a town in the United States with 1800 inhabitants and only one horse with one eye? Well, that town is Prov-
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incetown and I am the only man in town that owns a horse and he is an old white one with one eye." Mr. Stone and Mr. Fish used to alternate for the Mashpee Indians. The Indians through one of their own number, applied to the committee and requested that Mr. Fish be sent regularly. The com- mittee urged Mr. Stone, saying he was the best minister. " Indian ask for fish, you give him stone," said the imperturb- able brave.
There was then no road through the town. With no carts, wagons, carriages, horses or oxen, why a road ? A road was well enough where there was use for it. The first sleigh ever used in the town was a dory ; a good substitute and suggestion for the North Pole explorers. A Provincetown boy seeing a carriage driving through the town wondered how she could steer so straight without a rudder. Dr. Davy says his brother, Sir Humphrey, remembered when there was but one cart and one carpet in his native town of Penzance, now one of the beautiful and fashionable resorts of England. I don't know so well about carpets, but am sure the estimate on carts is not far from correct. Here every man had a path from his house to his boat or vessel, and once launched, he was on the broad highway of nations, without tax or toll. There were paths to the neighbors, paths to school, and paths to church ; tortuous, perhaps, but they were good pilots by night or day, on land or water. Besides, at lowwater there was a road such as none else could boast, washed completely twice a day from year to year, wide enough and free enough and long enough, if followed, for the armies of the Netherlands.
For you, they said, no barriers be, For you no sluggard rest ; Each street leads downward to the sea Or landward to the West.
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