Some old historic landmarks of Virginia and Maryland : described in a hand-book for the tourist over the Washington-Virginia railway, Part 7

Author: Snowden, William H
Publication date: 1904
Publisher: [Washington? D.C. : s.n.]
Number of Pages: 138


USA > Maryland > Some old historic landmarks of Virginia and Maryland : described in a hand-book for the tourist over the Washington-Virginia railway > Part 7
USA > Virginia > Some old historic landmarks of Virginia and Maryland : described in a hand-book for the tourist over the Washington-Virginia railway > Part 7


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15


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of seven years. He came to its more constant occupancy in 1758, after the fall of Fort Duquesne, the defeat of the combined forces, of French and Indians and the cessation of hostilities, and shortly afterwards found a mistress for his home in the person of Martha Custis of New Kent county. They were married in January, 1759.


At that time hardly one-fourth of the large scope was under cultivation. Only along the water courses had clearings been made. The rest was covered by original timber growth of oaks and walnuts. The new master and occupant with abundant means and opportunities at his command was to give to everything the impress of his practical and progressive ideas. In time he enlarged the dwelling place to its present propor- tions and extended the bounds of the estate by purchasing the other 2500 acres of the original patent already mentioned, and other adjoining properties including Clifton Neck of 2000 acres, until the domain included an expanse of Sooo acres with ten miles of reach alòng tide water.


The improvements in farm arrangements and crop cultivation which he ordered and had carried out by his negroes and overlookers in the course of a few years amply demon- strated to all who witnessed the results that he was as sensible and practical as a farmer as he had been in his methods of fighting the Indians. Whenever necessary he drained the grounds, adopted the plan of rotating crops, procured the best agricultural implements then to be obtained, planted and sowed the best seeds, erected comfortable shelters for his overseers and hands, had his home smithy and wagon shops for the repairs of all tools, carts and wagons, his carpenters for building and repairing the farm buildings and fences, had his grist mill for grinding his grains, his huntsmen for procuring wild game and his fishermen for supplying everybody on the premises with fish, then so abundant in the river. In a word, all things on the estate were so directed as to best subserve the end of making the most of all existing possibilities and satisfying all the reasonable wants of a rural community such as was there maintained. Under the vigilant eye of the distinguished master everything went on with regularity and cer- tainty. He carefully looked after the details of his farm operations, and being a very observant man, he never in any of his journeys abroad failed to notice any new agri- cultural improvements, and was very ready always to put them into practise on his own acres. Bringing to his aid the knowledge he had acquired in marking out the boundaries in his younger days of the wilderness possessions of Lord Fairfax in the val- ley of the Shenandoah with compass and chain, he himself laid off his estate into five main farms. The portion in the elbow of the Potomac, and between that stream and Little Hunting Creek, was named and known as Clifton Neck or River Farm, being the first of the land of the Mount Vernon estate entered by the railway going down from Alexandria, and consisted of about two thousand acres. Between Little Hunting Creek and Dogue Run, were laid off the Mansion House Farm of 1200 acres, Union Farm 1000 acres, Dogue Run Farm of 2000 acres, and Muddy Hole Farm of 1300 acres.


Several of these local names are found in Washington's will, which devises the prop- erty east of Little Hunting Creek, to George Lafayette Washington; about two-thirds, of the portion between Little Hunting Creek and Dogue Creek, lying on the Potomac, and including the Mansion House Farm, to Bushrod Washington; and the residue be- ing the southwesterly part of this tract, to Lawrence Lewis and his wife Eleanor Park Lewis. The soil and other natural capabilities of his estate are accurately described by Washington. The greater part he says is a grayish loam running to clay. Some . parts of it are of a dark mold, some inclined to sand, scarcely any to stone. He adds, "A husbandman's will, could not lay the farms more level than they are." . And as to the river, "the. whole shore is one entire fishery." "and springs, with plenty of water for man and cattle, abound everywhere on the grounds."


In addition to his own dwelling house and other buildings on the Mansion House Farm, he had, what he calls, an overlooker's house and negro quarters on each of the other farms. He speaks also of a newly erected brick barn, "equal, perhaps to any in America," on the Union Farm, a new circular barn on Dogue Run Farm, and a grist- mill near the mouth of Dogue Run. Some idea of the extent of Washington's farming operations may be formed from the following facts. In 1787 he had five hundred and eighty acres in grass, four hundred acres in oats, seven hundred acres in wheat, the


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same number in corn, with several hundred acres in barley, buckwheat, potatoes, peas, beans and turnips. His live stock consisted of one hundred and forty horses, one hundred and twelve cows, two hundred and twenty-six working oxen, heifers and steers and five hundred sheep, and of hogs, many, almost numberless, running at large in the woodlands and marshes. He constantly employed two hundred and fifty hands (negroes), and kept a score of ploughs going during the entire year, when the earth and the state of the weather would permit. In 1780 he slaughtered one hundred and fifty hogs for the use of his family and negroes. When not called away from Mount Vernon by public duties, Washington rode daily over his farms in pleasant weather, and kept himself thoroughly acquainted with the details of everything that was going on from season to season over his broad acres. Every locality was mapped. Every branch of labor was systematized, and all his farming operations were in charge of com- petent overseers, who were required to regularly account to him of their stewardship with exactness.


With the passing away of the winter of 1799 passed also from carth the stately presence of him who gave to the home and estate of Mount Vernon all their historic character and importance, and endeared them for all time to the generations of his countrymen to come after him; but thenceforth for many a long year, in the absence of the tireless care and watchful eye of the master; the fair fields were despoiled of their wonted fertility, and abandoned afterwards to the pine and cedar and the return- ing wild deer. The mansion itself and the immediate surroundings were sadly suffering from neglect and the hands of the spoiler.


Such was the condition of this historic domain, when in 1854 came to its occupancy, the vanguard of the colony of farmers from New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, the New England States and States of the West, who bought large areas of the worn-down but desirable lands, and commenced that work of restoration and improvement which has been attended with such remarkable success.


At that time there were but three white families on the whole estate. Now, they number nearly fifty families, and cultivate farms varying in extent from twenty-five to three hundred acres, with values from fifty to five hundred dollars per acre.


THE MOUNT VERNON ASSOCIATION.


In the year 1856 was incorporated by the Legislature of Virginia the "Mount Vernon Ladies' Association of the Union" having for its object the restoration of the "Mansion and grounds," and the reverential care thenceforth of everything pertaining to them. With this idea in view, donations were solicited from the patriotic women of the repub- lic, and the "Home and Tomb" with two hundred acres of the surrounding lands were purchased of John Augustine Washington, for the sum of two hundred thousand dollars. The work of obtaining the necessary funds for this laudable purpose was begun in great earnestness. Miss Pamelia Cunningham, of South Carolina, all honor to her name and services, and who by common consent had taken charge of the work, was constituted first regent, or manager of the association, and she appointed vice-regents in every State of the Union as her assistants. Edward Everett now gave his tongue and pen to the work. He went from city to city, like Peter the Hermit, pleading for the rescue of the Holy Sepulchre, delivering an oration on the character of Washington for the fund. Within two years from the first delivery of the oration, he paid into the treasury of the association fifty thousand dollars, an amount increased later to sixty-eight thou- sand dollars. The vice-regents cach appointed State committees, and the money raised was nearly all in dollar subscriptions. In July, 1859, three years after the movement was inaugurated, and one year before all the purchase-money was paid and a deed given, the late proprietor allowed the work of restoration to begin-the work which has resulted in the admirable condition and arrangements everywhere apparent. And may we not indulge the hope that henceforth this place, to which every patriotic American turns with pride and reverence, may be safe from a relapse to the desolation from which it was retrieved?


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COL. JOHN AUGUSTINE WASHINGTON.


THE LAST PRIVATE OWNER OF MOUNT VERNON.


Col. John Augustine Washington was born in 1820 at Blakely, the residence of his father in Jefferson county, W. Va. He was married in 1842 to Eleanor Love, daughter of Wilson Carey Seldon. He resided at Mount Vernon until a short time before the civil war and until it passed into the possession of the Ladies' Association under the control of which it is still held.


On the breaking out of hostilities between the States, Col. Washington became a volunteer aide, with the rank of colonel, on the staff of Gen'l Rob't E. Lee, and was killed September 13, 1861, while conducting a reconnoisance on the turnpike along Elk Water river, about 9 miles northwest of Huttonsville, Randolph county, W. Va. Col. Washington was a graduate of the University of Virginia, and was a man of fine natural parts as well as a gentleman of culture, of a warm, impulsive temperament and generous nature; in manners and hospitality a veritable type of the Virginia gentleman. The following facts connected with the circumstances of his death were recently related to the writer by Col. J. H. Morrow, late Third regiment, Ohio volunteers, who com- manded a brigade of four regiments, under Gen. George B. McClellan in the West Virginia campaign at the time, and in whose arms Colonel Washington expired, and with whose permission I make this statement. The old State turnpike road ran from Brady's toll gate, or Brady's gap, as the point was also designated, along the valley, following the course of Elk Water river, and being on low ground was subject to over- flow from the river in seasons of high water. On this account a new pike had been constructed on higher ground, and on this new road, at some distance below Brady's gate, General Lee had established his headquarters. The bluffs on the opposite side of the river from the old road had been heavily picketed by Federal soldiers for several miles, extending from Col. Morrow's camp below, very nearly if not quite up to Brady's gate. Owing to the mountainous character of the surrounding country, General Lee was imperfectly informed of the location of the Federal forces, and in order to obtain reliable in- formation in this regard, directed Colonel Wash- ington, with a detachment, to proceed up the new road to the forks at or near Brady's gate and thence down the road, cautioning him not to venture beyond a certain point. Washington, however, it appears, probably actuated by over zeal and anxiety to be able to report valuable in- formation, went beyond the point indicated. His movements along the entire route on the old road were, it seems, fully observed by the pick- ets, and immediately after he finally started on his return a volley was delivered from the pick- et line and Washington was seen to fall from his horse, which galloped away with the retreating escort. He was apparently the only one stricken by the volley. Colonel Morrow states that he was standing but a short distance from where Washington fell, and hurried to the spot and discovered him to be an officer of rank. He knelt by him and raised him so as to enable him to recline against his breast, and directed one COL. JOHN A. WASHINGTON. of his men, standing near, and who wore a felt hat, to run and fill it with water from the stream. Col. Morrow bathed the wounded man's forehead and endeavored to press water between his lips from a saturated handkerchief; but he could not swallow, as blood was flowing from his mouth and nose, and in a few minutes later he was dead.


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THE RECEPTION OR BANQUET HALL.


This is the largest apartment in the Mansion, running through its entire width. Its spacious ceiling and deep cornice are richly ornamented with delicate stem and leaf tracery and other devices in stucco of low relief. It has a superb chimney piece of fine marble, carved by the Italian Sculptor Canova, the gift of a wealthy Englishman and a great admirer of Washington. Upon the three tablets of the frieze under the mantel are sculptured in high relief in white marble, pleasant domestic scenes in agri- cultural life. The immense grate underneath has a capacity for a large pile of fuel. The hearth is of white marble inlaid with ornaments of polished maroon colored tiles. The whole presents a most pleasing picture to the eye. The dark blue vases upon the mantel covered with paintings of flowers, and the bronze candelabra on each end occu- pied the same places when the first proprietor received his guests in this Hall.


In pleasing array on the walls is an equestrian painting of Washington and his staff at Yorktown in 1781, painted by Peale. A portrait of Washington by Stuart, repre- senting him in military uniform at the age of forty-five. Pictures in oil and water colors of old ancestral places in England.


There are engraved portraits of all the continental generals, numerous autograph let- ters and other mementos of olden time and historic value. Here too, may be seen a model of the Bastile, the notable state prison in Paris, which was demolished by the infuriated populace in 1789, at the beginning of the French Revolution. Lafayette was at that time commander-in-chief of the National Guards and ordered and assisted in the destruction of the prison, which was regarded by the populace as the stronghold of tyranny. The great iron key to its dungeon was presented by Lafayette to Wash- ington.


In this apartment Major Lawrence Lewis and Miss Nellie Custis were married in the presence of General and Mrs. Martha Washington and a large assemblage of their neighbors and friends on the 22nd day of February, 1799. The notable event took place at "early candle lighting," so we are told by the General in his diary, with ceremonies and display of dress, equipage and festivities the most ostentatious of any which had ever been known in any Virginia home.


The bride and groom had both been of the General's household from very early years and both had always been the recipients of his favoring love and solicitude; and in this the crowning event, as the nuptial alliance was particularly pleasing to him, his orderings for the occasion of the wedding were most liberal and bountiful.


For years afterward in many a home by the Potomac the neighborhood folk who were guests that night at the Mansion of the First President delighted to tell to the younger generations of the "grand" sights and personages of the occasion-of the stately appearance of Washington and Mrs. Washington as they received the guests- of the charming debonair of beautiful Nellie and her handsome soldier affiance in his buff and blue and lace, who had won credit on the staff of the renowned General Morgan.


DESCENT OF THE MOUNT VERNON HOME.


Judge Bushrod Washington who inherited on the death of Martha Washington in 1802 about 4000 acres of the Mount Vernon estate, was the third child of John Augus- tine Washington, a younger brother of George Washington, born 1762. His mother was Hannah Bushrod of Westmoreland Co., Va. Judge Washington was an associate Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States and resided at Mount Vernon, dis- pensing a liberal hospitality and keeping intact his inherited landed estate to the time of his death in 1829. He was married in 1785 to Anna, daughter of Colonel Thomas Blackburn, of Rippon Lodge, Prince William county, Va. They had no children. He made a will, and following the example of his illustrious uncle, he provided for his wife during her life and then disposed of his estate to his nephews and nieces, giving specific directions, and leaving the Mansion House and Mount Vernon farm proper, with restricted bounds, which he specifically defined, to his nephew, John Augustine


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Washington and which was inherited by his son John Augustine, from whom the "Ladies' Association" purchased the home and two hundred aeres in 1856 for $200,000. Under this purchase and their Virginia charter, they hold the premises, keep them in order and make all regulations for the admission of visitors to the sacred precincts. The regent and the vice-regents of the Association, one from each state, meet annually at the Mansion for the transaction of business relating to their important charge, and their sessions are held in the great Banquet Hall.


On every part of the premises is bestowed through their management and solicitude a care and watchfulness from day to day, and from year to year which command the approbation of all visitors.


The whole interior of the house in the orderly arrangement of the many attractive oh- jects is a study and a delight for the curious and appreciative as well as patriotic visitors


For the reverential pilgrim as he passes from apartment to apartment there is a feel- ing which brings forcibly to mind and makes almost real the fancied presence of the departed master whose dust lies entombed so near.


Surely no home in the wide world ever had surroundings of landscapes fraught with more peaceful and quiet beauty.


"Ever charming, ever new, Tiring never to the view."


The numerous apartments of the Home known as the West Parlor, Music room, Mrs. Washington's sitting room, river room, Banquet Hall, Library, Washington's room, Lafayette's room, Mrs. Washington's room, and Nellie Custis' room are each tastefully furnished in antique styles and fashions, and many articles of the furniture belonged there in the time of the first president. After his death in 1799 they were widely scat- tered, but by donation of or purchase from their new possessors from time to time they have been restored to their old places. All the furniture of the Library room is original.


2JW-OHW


POHICK CHURCH OF TRURO PARISH. Six miles below the Mount Vernon Mansion and four miles from the Potomac stands


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the old Poliick Church, the second building of the parish, erected in the year of 1772. The first edifice was erected about the year 1732 but stood where now stands Lewis Chapel. The present house was built from plans furnished by Washington who was a member of its vestry and a frequent attendant at its services. The eccentric Mason L. Weems though not one of its rectors regularly ordained by the bishop of London, often preached there before 1800. The picture represents an old time congregation after service. Davis, an English traveler who passed much of his time in the neighbor- hood about 1800, published a book of his observations which he inscribed to Thomas Jefferson. He was a teacher in the family of Thomas Ellicott, a quaker and proprietor of the first flour mill on the Occoquan. In this book he thus describes a visit to the ancient parish church. "I rode to Pohick on Sunday and joined the congregation of parson Weems, a minister of the Episcopal Church, who was cheerful in his mien that he might win men to religion. A Virginia Church yard on Sunday resembles rather a race course than a sepulchral ground. The ladies come to it in carriages and the men after dismounting make fast their horses to the trees, I was astounded on entering the yard to hear 'steed threaten steed with high and boastful neigh.' Nor was I less stunned by the rattling of carriage wheels and the cracking of whips and the vocifera- tions of the gentry to the negroes who accompanied them. But the discourse of Mr. Weems calmed every perturbation, for he preached the great doctrine of salvation as one who had felt its power."


Parson Weems was the author of a life of Washington, a book abounding in many curious and quaint descriptions which set all the established canons of criticism and rules of taste at utter defiance. Weems first of all others in his little book related the oft heard story of the "little hatchet." He little thought when the story shaped itself in his imagination, that it was to descend to posterity and be ground into the heads of children in the nursery, as a piece of immortal and instructive truth. The remains of the eccentric parson, book peddler and fiddler are in the old family burying ground of Bell Air, not far from Dumfries. Since the civil war, by the munificence of various in- dividuals, the old church has been restored to its original appearance and condition, and regular service is held within its walls.


INAUGURATION OF WASHINGTON AS FIRST PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES.


"It would seem, from all we have learned of Washington's early and later career, that Providence had specially appointed him by birth and education to be the leader and director in the Western world, of the revolution which was to open the way for the founding there of a new and free English speaking nation. Every factor, whether of lineage or culture in his admirably balanced character, as well as every aspiration of his heart from his cradle to his grave is of exceeding great interest to the world Although deprived of a father's care at the age of eleven years, he was, however espe- cially blest in having such a mother as the noble Mary Washington, who conscientiously discharged her sacred duty as his guardian, counsellor and friend. Hence, filial rev- erence grew with his growth and strengthened with his maturing years into fixed prin- ciples, making him throughout his eventful life loyal to every virtue and heroic in every trust. He seems to have had no idle boy life, but was a man with manly instincts and ambitions from his youth. ( There came a sunshiny day in April, 1789, when George Washington, President-elect of the United States by the unanimous voice of the people, stood on the balcony in front of the Senate Chamber in the Old Federal Hall on Wall street to take the oath of office. An immense multitude filled the streets and the win- dows and roofs of the adjoining houses. Clad in a suit of dark brown cloth of American manufacture, with hair powdered, and with white silk stockings, silver shoe buckles, and steel-hilted dress sword, the hero who had led the colonies to their independence came modestly forward to take up the burdens that peace had brought. Profound silence fell upon the multitude as Washington responded solemnly to the reading of the oath of office, "I swear-so help me, God."


Then, amid cheers, the display of flags, the ringing of all the bells in the city, our


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first President turned to face the duties his country had imposed upon him. In sight of those who would have made an idol of him, Washington's first act was to seek aid of other strength than his own. In the calm sunshine of that April afternoon, fragrant with the presence of seed-time and the promise of harvest, we leave him on his knees in Old St. Paul's bowed with the simplicity of a child at the feet of the Supreme Ruler of the Universe.


MARY, THE MOTHER.


William Ball the first immigrant of the name and family to Virginia came to the bor- ders of the Rappahannock river in Lancaster county and established the plantation of Millenback. Capt. Joseph, his son, became possessor of the plantation of "Epping Forest" in the same neighborhood. He was married in 1675 to Elizabeth Romney. By her he had five children, Joseph, Elizabeth married to Rev. John Carnegie, Han-


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Mary Ball


MOTHER OF WASHINGTON.


Courtesy of Mr. Henry Dudley Teetor.


nah married to Raleigh Travers, Anne married to Col. Edward Conway, and Esther married to Raleigh Chinn. About 1707 or 8 his wife died and he married a second time to the widow Mary Johnson by whom he had one daughter Mary, who from her comeliness was called the rose of Epping Forest. Mary lost her father before she was five years old. Her mother was again married for the third time to Capt. Richard


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Hewes whose home was at Sandy Point near the mouth of Yeocomico river in the county of Northumberland. Here in all probability young Mary Ball passed the most of her single years with her mother, and in companionship with her half sister Eliza- beth Johnson until March 6, 1730, when she became the wife of Capt. Augustine Wash- ington of Wakefield, Westmoreland county, Va. He died in 1743. His widow Mary remained on the Wakefield homestead until 1775, when at her son George's request she came up to Fredericksburg where she could be very near to her daughter Betty Lewis, wife of Col. Fielding Lewis.




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