USA > Michigan > Jackson County > Jackson County, Michigan, rural directory, 1918 > Part 29
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For lice, use any of the lice remedies. For rose bugs, use 10 pounds of arsenate of lead and one gallon of molasses in 50 gallons of water, as a spray. Or knock the bugs into pans of kerosene every day.
10-14 days, repeat.
10-14 days, repeat.
Use lice remedies for lice. For striped bugs, protect young plants with a cover of mosquito netting over each hill. Or keep vines well dusted with a mixture of air-slaked lime, to- bacco dust and a little Paris green.
When fruit is one- half grown, Bor-
Dig out borers. Cut down and burn trees affected with "yellows."
deaux.
NOTE :- It is safer always to use half- strength Bordeaux on peach foliage.
ʻ
Look out for "fire blight." Cut out and burn blighted branches whenever seen.
10-14
10-20 days later,
Cut out black knot whenever seen.
Repeat for blight, rot and insects.
Repeat.
To prevent scabby tubers, treat the seed with formalin before planting.
Repeat in 10-14
Hand-pick tomato worms.
days.
8-12 days later, re- peat.
After blossoms have fallen. Bordeaux-ar- senical mixture.
days later, repeat.
Bordeaux.
mixture is a fungicide as well as a scale cure, and if it is used this first early Bordeaux spray may be omitted.
235
JACKSON COUNTY
THE FARMERS STATE BANK CONCORD, MICHIGAN
Capital & Surplus $50,000.00
P. E. CHAPPLE, Pres.
J. HENRY DART, V. Pres.
F. N. ALDRICH, V. Pres. and Cashier C. V. CUTTING, Ass't. Cashier
A GOOD BANK IN A GOOD COUNTRY
PEEK & WATKINS REAL ESTATE
FARMS A SPECIALTY
211 Dwight Building
JACKSON, MICH.
LEON G. BELL
JOHN S. WILSON
Citizens Telephone 605-K Bell Telephone 1556-J
BELL, WILSON & CO. Tin, Copper and Sheet Iron Work
Steel Ceilings and Furnace Work
111 W. PEARL STREET,
:
:
JACKSON, MICHIGAN
GLASGOW BROTHERS Noted for Selling Good Goods Cheap
129 to 135 E. MAIN ST., : JACKSON, MICH. A "Complete" Store With "Complete" Stocks Ladies' and Men's Ready-to-Wear, China, Yard Goods, Millinery, Furniture, Notions, Trimmings, etc., backed up by our own guaranty of satisfaction. Merchandise in this store is sold with our willingness to make good should the merchandise fail in satisfaction. This is directly responsible for the steady growth of our business,
236
CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY
The Babcock Milk Test
When a man begins to think of testing his cows and keeping a record of them, he is getting on higher ground. With- out recording the length of time a cow is in milk, her total milk production and its fat contents, no man is able to build up a great and paying herd. The use of the Babcock milk-testing machine may be learned by anybody. It is a centrifugal machine which holds an- nealed glass bottles that are carefully gauged and with measurements marked on their necks. The process was in- vented by Prof. S. M. Babcock, who gave it to the world without patenting it to make money for himself, and it has made millions of dollars for dairy- men.
To test milk, first carefully stir it from the bottom up, or pour it from pail to pail, but do not churn it. This is to mix it well and so get a true sample. As soon as it is quiet, suck up into the milk pipette more than enough to cover the mark, 17.5 cubic centimeters (c.c.), cap the end with the finger and slowly let the milk drip out until its upper level agrees with the mark. Then pipe it into one of the bottles of the ma- chine, where it will be safe from change, if needful, for a week.
If the test is to be made at once, pipe in a similar amount of sulphuric acid, taking care not to get it on the hands or clothes, as it is a powerful acid. When putting it into the milk, let it flow down the inside of the bottle and not run directly into the milk, as this will blacken or burn the curd and prevent a clear reading. Acid and milk should be at 60 degrees temperature to produce clear readings. Buy acid with a specific gravity of about 1.82. As soon as the acid is added, take the bottle by the neck and gently swirl the contents until they are thoroughly mixed. The curd must
be fully dissolved. Then close the ma- chine and whirl the samples for five minutes at a speed of 700 to 1,200 revolu- tions per minute. Next, fill each bottle to the base of the neck with hot water and whirl for two minutes more. Then fill to about the seven per cent. mark and repeat the whirling for two minutes. The measuring of the fat must be made while the sample is hot. Measure from the top of the curved upper level. If the fat extends from 0 to 4 in the neck there is just four per cent. fat, or four pounds of fat in 100 pounds of the milk. If it should run from 2 to 7, the amount is five per cent. The scale is graduated so that tenths of pounds are as easily read as full pounds. A little practice with the machine will readily make any boy an expert in its use.
When testing milk it must not be forgotten that the fat contents do not measure the exact butter production. For instance, if milk is four per cent. fats it should make about four and one- half pounds of butter, because in all but- ter there is some water, salt and minute parts of other things like aslı. If there was no loss in churning and the over- run were just sixteen per cent. (the law forbids it to be more), the amount would be four and sixty-four one-hundreths pounds. The buttermaker who is getting but 109 or 110 pounds of butter from 100 pounds of fats is not doing as well as he should. The loss of fats in the churning should never exceed one and one-half per cent. in the buttermilk, and may be less.
Any dairyman who does not own and operate a good Babcock milk tester and keep records of all of his individual cows, should not complain if his purse tells him that "farming doesn't pay," for in all untested herds are cows that eat up the profits which should go to the owner.
237
JACKSON COUNTY
FARMERS' BULLETINS Sent Free to Residents of the United States, by Department of Agriculture Washington, D. C., on Application.
NOTE .- Some nmmbers omitted are no longer published. Bulletins in this list will be sent free, so long as the supply lasts, to any resident of the United States, on application to his Senator, Representa- tive, or Delegate in Congress, or to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Because of the limited supply, applicants are urged to select only a few numbers, choosing those which are of special interest to them. Residents of foreign countries should apply to the Superintendent of Documents, Gov- ernment Printing Office, Washington, D. C., who has these bulletins for sale. Price, 5 cents each to Canada, Cuba, and Mexico: 6 cents to other foreign countries.
22. The Feeding of Farm Animals. 27. Flax for Seed and Fiber.
28. Weeds: And How to Kill Them.
30. Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast.
34. Meats: Composition and Cooking. 35. Potato Culture.
36. Cotton Seed and Its Products. 44. Commercial Fertilizers.
48. The Manuring of Cotton.
51. Standard Varieties of Chickeng.
52. The Sugar Beet.
54. Some Common Birds. 55. The Dairy Herd.
61. Asparagus Culture.
62. Marketing Farm Produce. 64. Ducks and Geese.
77. The Liming of Soils.
81. Corn Culture in the South.
85. Fish as Food.
86. Thirty Poisonous Plants.
88. Alkali Lands.
91. Potato Diseases and Treatment.
99. Insect Enemies of Shade Trees. 101. Millets.
104. Notes on Frost.
106. Breeds of Dairy Cattle.
113. The Apple and How to Grow It.
118. Grape Growing in the South.
121. Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes Food.
as
126. Suggestions for Farm Buildings.
127. Important Insecticides.
128. Eggs and Their Uses as Food.
131. Tests for Detection of Oleomargarine. 134 Tree Planting in Rural School Grounds. 137. The Angora Goat.
138. Irrigation in Field and Garden.
139. Emmer: a Grain for the Semi-arid Re- gions.
140. Pineapple Growing.
150. Clearing New Land.
152. Scabies in Cattle.
154. The Home Fruit Garden
156. The Home Vineyard.
157. The Propagation of Plants.
158. How to Build Irrigation Ditches.
164. Rape as a Forage Crop
166. Cheese Making on the Farm. 167. Cassava.
170. Principles of Horse Feeding.
172. Scale Insects and Mites on Citrus 275. The Gypsy Moth.
Trees.
173. Primer of Forestry.
174. Broom Corn.
175. Home Manufacture of Grape Juice.
176. Cranberry Culture.
177. Squab Raising.
178. Insects Injurious in Cranberry Culture. 179. Horseshoeing.
181. Pruning.
182. Poultry as Food.
183. Meat on the Farm.
185. Beautifying the Home Grounds.
187. Drainage of Farm Lands.
188 Weeds Used in Medicine.
192 Barnyard Manure.
194. Alfalfa Seed.
195. Annual Flowering Plants.
198. Strawberries.
200. Turkeys.
201. The Cream Separator on Western
Farms.
203. Canned Fruits, Preserves and Jellies. 204. The Cultivation of Mushrooms.
205. Pig Management.
206. Milk Fever and Its Treatment.
213. Raspberries
218. The School Garden.
220. Tomatoes.
221. Fungous Diseases of the Cranberry.
224. Canadian Field Peas.
228. Forest Planting and Farm Manage- ment.
229. Production of Good Seed Corn.
231. Cucumber and Melon Diseases.
232. Okra: Its Culture and Uses. 234. The Guinea Fowl.
236. Incubation and Incubators.
238. Citrus Fruit Growing in the States. -
Gulf
239. The Corrosion of Fence Wire.
241. Butter Making on the Farm.
242. An Example of Model Farming.
243. Fungicides and Their Use.
245. Renovation of Worn-out Soils.
246. Saccharine Sorghums. 248. The Lawn.
249. Cereal Breakfast Foods.
250. Wheat Smut and Loose Smut of Oats.
252. Maple Sugar and Syrup.
253. The Germination of Seed Corn.
254. Cucumbers.
255. The Home Vegetable Garden.
256. Preparation of Table. Vegetables for the
257. Soil Fertility.
260. Seed of Red Clover and Its Impurities. 263. Information for Beginners in Irrigation. 264. The Brown-Tail Moth.
266. Management of Soils to Conserve Mois- ture.
269. Industrial Alcohol: Uses and Statistics. 270. Modern Conveniences for the Farm
Home.
271. Forage Crop Practices in the North- west.
272. A Successful Hog and Seed-Corn Farm. 274. Flax Culture.
277. Alcohol and Gasoline in Farm Engines. 278. Leguminous Crops for Green Manuring. 279. A Method of Eradicating Johnson Grass. 280. A Profitable Tenant Dairy Farm. 282. Celery.
284. Enemies of the Grape East of the Rockies. 286. Cotton Seed and Cotton-Seed Meal. 287. Poultry Management.
288. Non-saccharine Sorghums.
289. Beans.
291. Evaporation of Apples.
292. Cost of Filling Silos.
293. Use of Fruit as Food.
295. Potatoes and Other Root Crops as Food. 298. Food Value of Corn and Corn Prod- ucts.
520
CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY
299. Diversified Farming.
301. Home-Grown Tea. 302. Sea Island Cotton.
303. Corn Harvesting Machinery.
304. Growing and Curing Hops. 306. Dodder in Relation to Farm Seeds.
307. Roselle: Its Culture and Uses.
310. A Successful Alabama Diversification Farm.
311. Sand-Clay and Burnt-Clay Roads.
312. A Successful Sonthern Hay Farm. 313. Harvesting and Storing Corn. 318. Cowpeas.
321. The Use of the Split-Log Drag Roads
on
322. Milo as a Dry-Land Grain Crop. 324. Sweet Potatoes.
325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt.
326. Building up a Cotton Plantation. 328. Silver Fox Farming.
330. Deer Farming in the United States. 331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas
332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food.
333. Cotton Wilt.
337. New England Dairy Farms. 338. Macadam Roads.
339. Alfalfa.
341. The Basket Willow. 344. The Boll Weevil Problem. 345. Some Common Disinfectants. 346. The Computation of Rations. 347. The Repair of Farm Equipment. 348. Bacteria in Milk.
349. The Dairy Industry in the South.
350. The Dehorning of Cattle.
351. The Tuberculin Test of Cattle. 354. Onion Culture.
355. A Successful Poultry and Dairy Farm.
357. Methods of Poultry Management.
358. Primer of Forestry. Part II.
359. Canning Vegetables in the Home. 361. Meadow Fescue: Its. Culture and Uses. 362. Conditions Affecting the
Value of
Hay.
363. The Use of Milk as Food.
364. A Profitable Cotton Farm.
365. Northern Potato-Growing Sections.
367. Lightning and Lightning Conductors.
368. Bindweed, or Wild Morning-glory. 369. How to Destroy Rats.
370. Replanning a Farm for Profit. 371. Drainage of Irrigated Lands. 372. Soy Beans.
373. Irrigation of Alfalfa.
375. Care of Food in the Home.
377. Harmfulness of Headache Mixtures.
378. Methods of Exterminating Texas-fever Tick.
379. Hog Cholera.
380. The Loco-weed Disease.
382. The Adulteration of Forage-plant
Seeds.
383. How to Destroy English Sparrows.
385. Boys' and Girls' Agricultural Clubs.
386. Potato Culture on Farms of the West.
387. Preservative Treatment of Timbers. 389. Bread and Bread Making. 390. Pheasant Raising in the United States. 391. Economical Use of Meat in the Home. 392. Irrigation of Sugar Beets. 393. Habit-forming Agents. 394. Windmills in Irrigation.
395. Sixty-day and Kherson Oats. 396. The Muskrat.
398. Use of Commercial Fertilizers in the South.
399. Irrigation of Grain. 400. Profitable Corn-planting Method.
401. Protection of Orchards from Frosts. 402. Canada Bluegrass; Its Culture and Uses.
403. Construction of Concrete Fence Posts.
404, Irrigation of Orchards. 406. Soil Conservation.
407. The Potato as a Truck Crop.
408. School Exercises in Plant Production.
409. School Lessons on Corn.
410. Potato Culls as a Source of Alcohol.
411. Feeding Hogs in the South.
413. The Care of Milk and Its Use.
414. Corn Cultivation.
415. Seed Corn.
417. Rice Culture.
420. Oats: Distribution and Uses. 421. Control of Blowing Soils.
422. Demonstration Work
on Southern
Farms.
423. Forest Nurseries for Schools.
424. Oats: Growing the Crop.
426. Canning Peaches on the Farm.
427. Barley Culture in the Southern States. 428. Testing Farm Seeds.
429. Industrial Alcohol: Manufacture.
431. The Peanut.
432. How a City Family Managed a Farm. 433. Cabbage.
434. Production of Onion Seed and Sets. 436. Winter Oats for the South.
437. A System of Tenant Farming.
438. Hog Houses.
439. Anthrax.
440. Spraying Peaches.
441. Lespedeza, or Japan Clover
442. The Treatment of Bee Diseases.
443. Barley: Growing the Crop.
444. Remedies Against Mosquitoes.
445. Marketing Eggs Through the Creamery.
446. The Choice of Crops for Alkali Land. 447. Bees.
448. Better Grain-Sorghum Crops.
449. Rabies or Hydrophobia.
450. Some Facts About Malaria.
452. Capons and Caponizing.
453. Danger of Spread of Gypsy and Brown- Tail Moths.
454. A Successful New York Farm. 455. Red Clover.
456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value.
458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghums. 459. House Flies.
460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Growing. 461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm.
462. The Utilization of Logged-Off Land. 463. The Sanitary Privy.
464. The Eradication of Quack-Grass.
466. Winter Emmer.
467. Chestnut Bark Disease.
468. Forestry in Nature Study.
470. Game Laws.
471. Grape Propagation, Pruning, Training.
472. Farming in Central New Jersey.
474. Paint on the Farm.
475. Ice Houses.
476. Dying Pine in Southern States.
477. Sorghum Sirup Manufacture.
478. Typhoid Fever.
480. Disinfecting Stables.
481. Concrete on the Live-Stock Farm.
482. How to Grow Pears.
483. Thornless Prickly Pears.
484. Spotted Fever.
485. Sweet Clover.
487. Cheese in the Diet.
488. Diseases of Cabbage, etc.
489. Two Imported Plant Diseases.
490. Bacteria in Milk.
492. Fungous Enemies of the Apple.
493. English Sparrow Pest.
494. Lawn Soils and Lawns.
495. Alfalfa Seed Production.
496. Raising Hares and Rabbits. 498. Texas-fever Tick.
500. Control of the Boll Weevil. 501. Cotton Improvement. 502. Timothy in the Northwest. 503. Comb Honey.
239
JACKSON COUNTY
Grafting and Budding
The Art of Grafting
When in the spring the sap begins to move in the stock, be ready; this occurs early in the plum and cherry, and later in the pear and apple. Do the grafting, if possible, on a mild day during showery weather. The necessary tools are a chisel, or a thick-bladed knife or a grafting iron (with which to split open the stock after it is sawed off smoothly with a fine-tooth saw), a hammer or mallet to aid the splitting process, a very sharp knife to trim the scions, and a supply of good grafting wax. Saw off a branch at the desired point, split the stock a little way down. and insert a scion at each outer edge-taking care that the inner bark of the scion fits
snugly and exactly against the inner bark of the stock. This-together with the exclusion of air and moisture until a union results-constitutes the secret of success.
Trim the scions to a long edge, as shown in the picture; insert them ac- curately; the wedge should be a trifle thicker on the side which comes in con- tact with the stock's bark. Lastly, apply grafting wax with a brush. Each scion should be long enough to have two or three buds, with the lower one placed as shown. The "spring" of the cleft holds the scion securely in place, and therefore tying should be unnecessary. If both scions in a cleft grow, one may later be cut away.
When grafting large trees it is best not to cut away too much of the tree at once; therefore, a few secondary branches should be left untouched, and
these, after the scions are thriftily grow- ing, can gradually be cut away the fol- lowing years. Or, part of a tree can be thus top-grafted one year and the re- mainder the next. Many a worthless tree has thus been entirely changed.
You can't graft a pear or an apple on a cherry or plum tree, or vice versa. The stone fruits and the pomaceous fruits are separate families and refuse to intermarry.
Judge Biggle likes to make his graft- ing wax this way: One pound of resin, one-half pound of beeswax, and one- quarter pound of tallow, melted together. Keep in an iron pot; heat for use when wanted. He says: "It is best to use scions which were cut very early this spring or last fall; they can be kept in moist sawdust or sand."
Common putty may be used for graft- ing wax, and is much cheaper; put it on good and thick and fill all cavities smoothly. Then take cloth, tear it in strips, wind it around the putty and tie it with string. Many fruit men say they have better luck with putty than with wax.
1
Bridge Grafting
Rabbits have seriously injured fruit trees in many orchards by girdling. When the girdle is only three or four inches wide the tree may be saved by bridge grafting. Trees with large patches of bark removed entirely around the trunk cannot be successfully treated, though those not too badly injured may be saved by special treatment.
Bridge grafting should be done in early spring, scions from healthy trees being selected from twigs produced last season. The torn edges of the wound should be cut off smoothly, and all badly loosened bark removed. The scion should be cut half or three-quarters of an inch longer than the wound, and the ends of the scions pointed.
The scion may then be inserted under the edge of the bark, care being taken to have the cut on the scion made rather slanting, to give considerable space for it to unite with the bark of the tree.
240
CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY
Several of these scions should be put in around the tree at intervals of not more than one and one-half inches. (See illustration). On small trees, three or four scions will be sufficient.
It is a good practice to paint over the wound areas with white lead, and they may further be protected by binding with cloth. Care should be taken, however, to see that the twine that holds the cloth is not so tight as to girdle the newly-set scions. After the scions have become firmly established, the cloth may be removed.
The scions will continue to increase in size, and as they approach each other the union of one scion to the other may be accomplished by shaving the sides of the scions. In time the entire girdle area may be entirely healed over in this way.
SCION
WOUND
GRAFT
In some cases, bridge grafting will not be necessary. If the inner bark has not been removed by the rabbits, the tree may be saved by immediately protecting the girdled area before it has had time to dry out, by wrapping with cloth which has been treated with grafting wax. The inner bark will then form an outer bark, without serious injury. Where it can be used, this method is better than bridge grafting. Trees on which the bark has been removed along the sides and not entirely around the trunk, will be benefited by painting the wound. Be- fore this is done, however, the rough edges of the bark should be removed so as to facilitate healing.
REMARKS: After all is said, the fact remains that it is much safer and better to prevent injury than to cure it. As we have often stated, mice and rab bits can be kept off by wrapping the tree trunks with strips of wood veneer, laths, building paper or wire screening. Of course, however, such wrappings do no good after the injury is done.
Budding
The art of budding consists in taking a bud from one tree and inserting it under the bark of some other tree. The union of the two, the bud and the stock, takes place at the edges of the bark of the inserted bud. For this reason, the bud should be inserted as soon as cut from its twig and before it has had time to dry out. The bud should also be full, plump and well matured, and cut from wood of the current season's growth. The stock should be in active growth so that the bark will slip easily.
In cutting the bud a sharp knife is required, as a clean, smooth cut is de- sirable. The knife is inserted a half inch below and brought out the same
distance above, shaving out a small wedge of wood under the bud along with the bark. This wedge is no hindrance to the union and should not be removed. The leaf is always clipped off.
To insert bud, make a T-shaped in- cision just through the bark of stock, as shown in the illustration. Raise the bark carefully without breaking it and insert the bud. Practice will give ease and dispatch to the operator. The bud must be held firmly to the stock by a bandage wound about the stock, both above and below it, being careful to leave the eye of the bud uncovered. Raffia, bast, candlewick or waxed cloth may be used for tying. In about ten days, if the bud "takes," the bandage must be removed or the stock will be strangled and its growth hindered. The work of budding is usually performed in July or August in the North, and in June in the South. When the bark peels easily, and the weather is dry and clear, is the ideal time.
241
9
1
JACKSON COUNTY
C. W. AKIN
GENERAL STORE
ICE CREAM SOFT DRINKS Also Cottages and Boats to Rent or for Sale City Telephone 8102-R. D. No. 9 JACKSON, MICHIGAN
----
JACKSON'S CO-OPERATIVE Saving and Home-Owning Association
ASSETS MARCH 1, 1918 $2,916,121.80
NEW MICHIGAN
GUARANTY FUND $49,956.30
201 Peoples Bank Bldg. MECHANIC STREET ENTRANCE
IRVING B. RICH, President FRANK S. KNOWLES, Sec .- Treas.
THE CULVER 3 PARKER CO. BROOKLYN, MICHIGAN Sell Dry Goods, Groceries, Shoes, Crockery, Wall Paper, Carpets, Rugs, Sewing Machines and Farm Seeds. OVER FIFTY YEARS' RECORD FOR FAIR DEALING
D O Your Best For the Home- the Red Cross-and For the Y. M. C. A. JACKSON, MICHIGAN
FIFIELD & WEATHERBY
242
CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY
Troublesome Pests-Rats
At one time our premises were so over-run with rats that we sustained quite a loss from their devastation. A plan for their destruction was devised, as follows: Filling an iron kettle three- fourths full of barn sweepings, corn- cobs and a little mixed grain, we set it in an empty stall in the horse stable where the rats seemed to predominate most, and left it this way for some time, keeping plenty of grain in with the rub- bish as an enticement for the rats. We laid several boards sloping from the kettle to the floor, so that the rats could easily run up and down and into the kettle.
At the end of about two weeks, or when we thought a great number of rats had become accustomed to frequent the kettle, we emptied the kettle of its rubbish contents and filled it three- fourths full of water and covered the water about an inch or more with light chaff, leaving no water exposed. (If water remains entirely undisturbed the chaff will not sink over night.) On the chaff we scattered a little light grain. There was something going on, that night ! The rats had a party or some- · thing; at any rate, the next morning when we went to fishing we scooped out about a half bushel of rats, big and little. The next morning our haul was not quite so large, but we got quite a number; and so on until the rats either got wise or there were no more rats. If we did not get all, we at least got a large majority of them.
At another time when rats were get- ting altogether too plentiful, we caught a rat in a box trap. This rat we let run into a grain bag and there we caught it by the nape of its neck, guarding care- fully against being bitten; then we let all but the head and neck come out of the bag and painted all of the exposed parts of the rat thoroughly with tar, and let the rodent go. We had heard that doing this to one rat and letting it go would clean the premises of all other rats, as they object to the smell of tar, or are frightened at the strange appear- ance of one of their party. It seemed
to work in our case, and work well. We had no trouble with rats for several years after that. Lonesome, heart- broken, or what, I don't know; but one morning shortly after we had tarred this rat we caught the same fellow again in the same trap we had caught it.in before. However, this time we did not let it go. . It seems that in no other place are rats so hard to catch as in the cellar. Located there they seem to be able to evade all traps and trapping. But I found a way to get Mr. Rat in the cellar. I set a steel trap and put it in a shallow, discarded bread-pan, and covered the trap completely with wheat bran; the bran being light, did not spring the trap nor hinder the working of it. Over and about the trap on the bran I scattered a few bread-crumbs or meat scraps. This method has never failed me in getting rats in the cellar ; although it has when tried in other places. The bran and the foregoing baits differed so much from the edibles the rats in the cellar were accustomed to diet on, that they jumped for the chance of a change, and conse- quently were easily caught in this manner.
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