USA > Michigan > Kalamazoo County > Kalamazoo County, Michigan city directory 1869-70 > Part 2
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Marly clay of a coarse character is plentifully diffused throughout this part of the State. It is associated with no- dules of lime and ferruginous matter, which makes it an infe- rior building material, but as the pebbles are often stratified, with little care clay may be obtained free from them. The sand is of various kinds, and generally what is termed "bank sand,"
*The writer has in his possession a piece of pure native copper, which was found several feet below the surface, when a well was being sunk on the lot, south west corner of Main and Burdick Streets.
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partaking of a loamy nature, but many a strata of pure silex is found, with occasionally patches of the iron sand of commerce. Beds of clean, water-worn pebbles are found in every direction, while deposits of marl, composed of recent shells, are used in the manufacture of lime. These deposits are generally found in the bed of some pond and appear to be of various formations and mollusca, and between the strata layers of earthy material are interspersed. Iron has also been found within the present limits of this village, and for years was taken out in paying quantities and smelted here. There are also many streams and springs, some of the latter showing the presence of minerals, and the country abounds in lakes. The soils are very rich and pro- ductive, and embrace every variety desirable for agricultural and economical purposes. No extensive rock formations, that we are aware of, crop out in this county, and our only building stone is that scattered on the surface. Traces of coal are some- times seen in the sandhills but no continuous deposit probably exists in this portion of the State.
The ancient earth-works, mounds and garden-beds, (monu- ments of a mysterious race which once inhabited, in vast num- bers, this section), which are spread over the county, were more marked and observable in the days of the early settlement than at the present time, though many of the mounds still remain in nearly the same condition in which they were found. One of the largest and most striking of these tumuli is the mound in our public park. At an early day this whole plain was a series of ancient garden-beds; but the invasion of a regenerating host, careless alike of their origin and their future fate, has swept away these relics, the plow has broken in upon the symmetry of even many of the mounds, and it is feared that soon these embossed illustrations of our ancient history will be obliterated forever.
Who were the mound builders ? is a question that has exer- cised the best minds in our country, and lead to immense re- search and investigation. The conclusion that has been arrived at by the best authors is : That this population was numerous .
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and widely spread ; the number and extent of the ancient mon- uments, and the extensive range of their occurrence, throughout the Mississippi Valley and the region of the great lakes, proving this. That it was essentially homogeneous, in customs, habits, religion, and government. This opinion (says an eminent arch- eologist) can be in no way affected, whether we assume that the ancient race was at one time diffused over the entire Valley, or that it migrated slowly from one portion of it to the other, un- der pressure of hostile neighbors or the attractions of a more ge- nial climate. The features common to all the monuments are elementary, and identify them as appertaining to a single grand system, owing its origin to a family of men, moving in a general direction, acting under common impulses, and influenced by similar causes Without attempting to indicate the probable origin or cause of disappearance of this race, the connection be- tween them and the Aztec race seems very intimate. Like that people, the mound-builders were stationary and agricultural in their habits-conditions indispensible to large population, fixed- ness of institutions, and to any considerable advance in econom- ical or ennobling arts. This characteristic is evident from many facts, prominent among which is that their monuments and remains are almost entirely confined to the fertile valleys of streams, or to productive alluvions,-precisely the locations best adapted for agricultural purposes, and capable of sustaining the densest population, and where fish and game would be most plentiful.
We have not space to describe the great variety and extent of these tumuli, that are scattered over the continent, from Ore- , gon to the Atlantic States, and even to and beyond the Gulf of Mexico, nor point out the difference between their defensive works, their religious (sacrificial) and sepulchral mound, mounds of observations, temple mounds, etc. Those of this State are but mere mole-hills to the immense earth-works, cones and hill- mounds of Ohio, Illinois, Wisconsin and other States. One of the largest of these is at Cahokia, Illinois. The form of this mound is that of a parallelogram, 700 feet long by 500 wide at the base, and 90 feet high. Upon one side is a broad terrace,
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which is reached by a graded ascent. Within it were found human bones, stone implements and pottery. This mound cov- ers not far from eight acres, and the area of its level summit is about five acres. Specimens of finely cut representations of ani- mals and birds, beads and other ornaments, of stone and . cop- per have been found, and the best of evidence is afforded that the mound-builders were a cultivated and superior race, the equals of their contemporaries, the pyramid builders of the Nile. This race were our predecessors in this valley.
The great antiquity of these mounds is attested by the fact that in many cases they are covered by primitive forests in no particular distinguishable from those which surround them. Some of these trees are 800 years old, and surrounded with the mouldering remains of others, undoubtedly of equal original dimensions, but now fallen and almost incorporated with the soil. That these people also occupied a vast extent of territory at the same time, with lines of communication between extreme points, is evident for we find, side by side in the same mounds, native copper from Lake Superior, mica from the Alleghanies, shells from the Gulf, and obsidian (pearlstone) from Mexico. But whence they came or when or how the extinction of these " lost tribes" was brought about is not even left to the faintest tradi- tion, and the story of their lives is a sealed book. Only these relics and mounds tell that they have been.
There have evidently been considerable physical changes in the appearance of some portions of the ground whereon Kalama- zoo is situated, since the days of the mound-builders. The bur- oaks; that are the pride of our city, are not of the " forest prime- ral," but belong, at least, to a secondary growth. The river here spread into a wide bay, with a vast shore-line and innumerable indentations. The gradual filling up of this lake has made the extensive marshes which are to be seen,-now reclaimed, dry and highly productive. A belt of beech, maple, basswood, etc., in times not far remote, margined the shores of the Arcadia creek, from the river to a point near the base of College Hill. Remains of beaver dams were seen on this creek at a point near where Church street crosses it, by the first settlers. A very large dam
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of like origin, was thrown across the creek near the site of Bau- man's new brewery, before the settlement, but it had broken away, and was only traceable by its ruins.
KALAMAZOO.
LEAVING now the period of antecedent history and the consid- eration of subjects that force themselves upon the mind, in view of our surroundings, we come down to a modern and recent se- ries of events-to a point of time within the memory of men, not yet old. Avoiding any recital of the adventures of the early French missionaries, who occasionally passed through this portion of territory, on their way from Canada to the Mississip- pi, we will begin by saying that Kalamazoo was ever a cherished spot to the red man. All his legends illustrate this regard, and if further proof is wanting, it is seen in the great number of trails that converged here from all directions. Several burial- places were located here, and evidences of repeated sojourns of the Ishmaels of the forest, were noted by the whites who first came. The tribe who held sway over this region was the Pot- tawattomie, whose characteristics and history were briefly set forth in a previous volume. Their principal village hereabouts, in 1812, was at Indian Fields, in Portage, a hidden village, situa- ted away from the trails. It was the time when the warriors were away aiding the British ; a period marked and commemora- ted by the old smithy, erected on the Prairie Ronde trail, near the south line of the "Axtell farm," so often visited and so well-
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remembered by the old settlers. This pioneer mechanic shop of this place and the Kalamazoo valley, was set up here by the English Government, and a smith was stationed here, to repair fire-locks, prepare bullets, etc., and there was probably a "cache" of powder, lead, knives and other "war material." The smithy consisted ofa round block upon which an anvil had been placed, and the remains of a rude forge, built of logs and earth, but which had crumbled away in the lapse of years. A heap of charcoal and some debris of the furnace and work-shop can still be found, by raking away the accumlated vegetable mold.
The French traders had a post here about this time. Mr. Louis Campau, one of the oldest of these marchands des bois, who still lives, in Grand Rapids, writes, in reply to some ques- tions touching the traders, as follows :
" Before, and a short time after the war of 1812, there was a line of Indian villages from Ypsilanti to the mouth of the St. Joseph River, located as follows : at places where are now Ypsilanti, Ann Arbor, Jackson, Battle Creek, Gull Prairie, Kal- amazoo, Prairie Ronde, South Bend and St. Joseph, all of the Pottawattomie tribe. There were trading posts at some of these places. At Ypsilanti Mr. Schamber had a post; at Jack- son, Mr. Baerotiea ; at Kalamazoo, Mr. Lumaiville; at Elkhart, Mr. Moredant; at South Bend, Mr. Bertrand. Messrs. Bennett & Brother were traders at Michigan City. When I passed through Kalamazoo in 1827 there were but two log houses there. LOUIS CAMPAU."
Mr. Campau here evidently means, by the " two log houses," those occupied by the trader and his family, as the Indians did not build log houses, and there were no other whites here.
Reference has been made in a former volume to our trading post and a description given of it. These traders brought their goods from Detroit, on pack horses, through an unbroken forest, or in batteaux, up the devious windings of the river, from the lakes. Their assortment consisted of ammunition, steel traps, spear tines, hooks, blankets, beads, clothing, calicoes, hats, and caps, a few boots and shoes, and last, not least in the estimation 4
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of their tawny patrons, an unfailing supply of whiskey. Some- times rifles and shot guns were supplied, and occasionally a pony that the trader had obtained from Campau's numerous stud (he often had from 700 to 1000 at a time, grazing along the Detroit river) to bring out his goods, would be sold to Indians if wanted. In exchange for these they would receive money (very little), furs and other articles of export, which had also to be conveyed to market in the same tedious manner that commodities were brought out. In this way most of them amassed fortunes, and all of them led a romantic and unsettled life. They were fear- less and their influence and power over the Indian was almost absolute. With the influx of the whites their trade was much enlarged, as they were depended upon to furnish their new neighbors.
There is much interest attached to the old trading-post on the Kalamazoo river at this place, though now there are only a few logs to mark its old foundations, and associations with primitive days in the memories of the earliest settlers. The grounds upon which it stood, perhaps even a century ago, from whence the most beautiful view of the river is obtained, is now in the enclo- sure of the RIVERSIDE CEMETERY. From the hills above it, the first glimpses of this lovely valley and its fair surroundings met the eyes of the earliest pioneers. Nearly forty-three years ago, in May, 1826, a young missionary, on his way to the Carey Mission, on the St. Joseph river, there to begin a life-work of teaching the Gospel to the Indians-arrived at the summit of the hill that rose before the entrance of the old post. It was nearly night- fall, and, tired with the long tramp along the trail, since morn- ing, he stopped, laid down his knapsack, and staff, prepared him- self for rest, and was not long in finding "tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." In the morning he arose, and pursued his journey, but the glorious scene that met his gaze as he turned it westward, was never effaced from his mind, and years after, when he knew he must soon rest from life's pilgrimage, he de- sired that the spot where he halted on that May evening, should be his resting-place. And there Leonard Slater sleeps, after for- ty year's devotion to his Master's cause.
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There is a sad story connected with this trading-post. Recol- let, one of the oldest of the traders at this point, had two daugh- ters who, as they grew up, became more and more the pride and idols of his heart. Year after year they unfolded new graces and new beauties, and made the wilderness a merry place with their ringing voices, and inextinguishable happiness. Like the waters of the Ke-Kenamazoo they loved so much, the current of their lives flowed sweetly, smoothly on. Fearless as an Indian brave, lithe and sinewy as a deer, as tireless as eagles, and as sure-footed as a scout, there was not a nook, hillside or stream- let, for miles around, they did not explore; not a spring, lake, or meadow brook but returned their mocking glances, laved their Camillian feet, or bubbled up fresh beakers to kiss their thirs- ty lips. But at last the time came when the father, who had long wrestled against the thought of separation, yielded to what he believed to be his duty, and determined they should be educa- ted and fitted for a better life-for he held " the gray barbarian lower than the Christian child." He himself went with them to Montreal and placed them in a convent. They were permitted twice to revisit their old home, and finally, their education com- pleted, they started once more homeward. But they were des- tined never again to tread the old familiar hills. While upon a brief visit to Mackinac, they were both drowned, the boat in which they were enjoying an excursion, being overturned by a sudden storm. When the sad tidings at last reached the aged father he became like one who, by a sudden stroke, is deprived of all hope or comfort. He remained here but a little time af- terwards, and soon disappeared, none knew whither.
Besides Recollet, there were several other traders engaged at this post, at different times, and among them were Numaiville, Peter Coteau, Liephart, and Rix Robinson, the last-named per- son, though owning it a number of years, was here only a short time in 1837, to close up its affairs.
The surroundings of the place we have referred to, both by nature and association are, in a high degree, romantic. It is the ground upon which many a scene of love, prowess, council and battle, was enacted; it was the home, and the burial-place, of the
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most famous of the Indian chiefs. It was here the trails all met, for the river crossing, and for some time it was the fording- place of the pioneers, until Nate Harrison's ferry was started, in 1832, and enjoyed a busy and eventful career until 1834.
The " boys" used to have a good deal of "fun" at the post, when this colony was small, and there was no public opinion to regulate the morals. There are still living here some of that merry crew who delighted to go down to the post, worry "old Reckly," drink his whiskey, hold " buayaws," and have a "good' time generally. On one occasion, after being repeatedly tormen- ted, the old Frenchman, seeing his "friends" approaching, barred his doors and refused them access. The boys made a vigorous attack but vain were all their efforts to effect an entrance. Final- ly, they accomplished by strategy what they could not compass by force. One of them mounted the roof, crept to the chimney, and, by the aid of his companions, closed the aperture complete- ly. Then they patiently waited the result. The Frenchman held out as long as possible, but finally succumbed, opened his door, rubbing his tearful eyes, and cursing with many "sacr-r-es" and like expletives-having been literally smoked out !
In June, 1829, Titus Bronson, a Connecticut Yankee, follow- ing the Indian pathway from Ann Arbor westward, known as the St. Joseph trail, reached the summit of the hills above the old trading-place, just as the sun was setting. Halting for a moment and permitting his eye to wander over the valley, he at once realized the beauty of the scene, and, at the same time, his practical mind recognized the advantages here afforded for building up a town. " Here," said he to himself, after reflecting for a few moments, " here is a first-rate place for a city !" and he never thought differently afterwards. Descending the hill to the Indian fording-place, he crossed the river, and followed the trail still onward until he came to a large mound, about which were many ancient and grass-covered garden-beds. Here he rested for the night, resolving to explore the valley next morn- ing. His carpet-bag was well stored with creature comforts, and, breakfast taken, after a sound sleep, he proceeded to look over the land. It proved no mirage, on his closer examination,
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nor dispelled the vision that distance had lent enchantment to, on the previous evening. He examined the place on all sides, and was entirely satisfied with it, and then set himself to work to secure a proprietory right to the ground. Within a few weeks he had erected a rude cabin and taken the initiatory steps to secure his claim. This cabin was built at a point on Kala- mazoo Avenue, just west of West street, and a short distance from the Arcadia creek that then flowed across the meadow a dozen rods north of its present (artificial) channel. It was of logs, roofed with rails and covered with grass ; and, in dimen- sions, was about 12 feet wide by 14 long and one story high, Mr. Bronson did not remain here during the winter ensuing, but sojourned at the Prairie Ronde settlement, what time he was not looking out land for himself or others. As soon as the land-office was opened at White Pigeon he obtained a patent of the Government for the land he had selected here, viz: The east half of the southwest quarter of section fifteen, in town two south of range eleven west; and Stephen Richardson, who was interested with Bronson in the proposed village, took the west half of the southwest quarter of the same section.
The next settler, (and the first who came here accompanied by his family ) was William Harris, who arrived in the spring of 1830, and lived in a rude cabin which he erected under the hills north of the present cemetery, on the trail which led to Grand Prairie. He was visited, late in the summer, by Rodney Sey- mour, Lot M. and Noah North, this trio having set out from Ypsilanti, where they had been at work making brick. Sey- mour's sister, Mrs. D. S. Dillie, was then living on Gull Prairie, and to visit her was one of the objects of the adventurous jour- ney. After remaining there a short time, Seymour and his com- panions pushed on to the Kalamazoo river, and, crossing at the Indian ford, soon after came upon the site of the future city. In its crown of summer beauty the wide but lonely valley was un- surpassingly lovely ; bur oaks, with low growing branches, cov- ered, not very thickly, the somewhat rolling surface of the plain, which was free of underbrush and overspread with luxu- riant grass, starred and flamed with the gayest and most beau-
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tiful of wild flowers. Following a well-beaten trail along the sparkling creek, the travelers at last approached the cabin of our pioneer. This is described as a domicil of the most primi- tive style of architecture, and as it is a type of many of the first habitations in the West, a picture of one will serve for all. By the side of a spring, or stream, large or small, a spot was cho- sen for the new home. This one was hard by a bubbling spring of excellent water, and where fuel was abundant. It was built of small logs one upon another grooved at the ends so as to fit all around closely, the chinks being stopped with wood and filled with mud-with small oblong appertures for windows on the side, another and larger in front for a doorway, and still another in the roof for the chimney-made of sticks and clay (but often there was only a hole in the roof through which the smoke, after lingering with the family and the household gods till "all was blue," would wander out at its own sweet will). The roof flat, but sloping, was composed of poles and thatched with straw. When the weather was inclement blankets would be put up at the windows, or the head of the family found it a con. venient place to stretch a coon-skin to dry, with "the wooly side out and the fleshy side in." At night a blanket or sheet would serve as a door, and often the house-dog, watching at the thresh- old would arouse his master when the saucy wolves, whose howl made darkness hideous, approached too near. Within the hut comforts seemed entirely wanting. There was no floor, the fur- niture comprised a camp-kettle, frying-pan, knives and forks, and some tin plates, two stools, and a bedstead made by inserting two poles into the side of the house, and supporting the other ends, (kept apart by a cross-piece) from the ground, by wooden legs- bark of the elm or basswood being used in place of bed-cord. Beds were made upon the ground for the children; the cook- ing was performed outside when the weather would permit, the fire-place inside being a mere space of ground in the corner set apart for that purpose under the hole in the roof. A little patch of ground had been planted, near the house, to corn and pota- toes-but in many respects the life of the pioneer was, for some time, but a little above that of the Indian; he relied more upon
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his rifle than his harvest. In this dwelling was a family of five. the father, mother, and three children. Our adventurers rested here but a short time, inquired which the trail to the Big Prairie settlement and departed. Their way led them past the old smithy, and, looking back from the hill, no other habitation but the one they just halted at could be seen-no other raised its modest head amid the sylvan glories of the enchanting valley, on the far-reaching plain or the western wooded hillsides.
Nathan Harrison, William Mead, and Elisha Hall, followed Harris, in the settlement a few weeks after, in the order in which they are here placed. Nathan Harrison raised a cabin on the site of what was afterwards the old River House, on " Harrison's half-acre," at the confluence of the Portage with the Kalamazoo. Mead lived with his brother-in-law, Harris. Hall moved into a hut that he built on Arcadia creek near the river. These are all the families that settled in this immediate vicinity in 1830, 80 far as the writer has been able to learn. Supplies were obtained when needed, from the French trader below, or from Prairie Ronde. But fish and game were plenty, and the wants of the settlers were few.
The year 1831 was more promising for the prospects of the future village. The proprietor, Titus Bronson, and family, came in the spring, and occupied a log house built for him on what is now the north east corner of Church and Water streets. The village had been surveyed and laid out during the fall or winter before, for we find the record of the acknowledgement to the plat by Bronson and Stephenson, dated March 12, 1831, and taken "before " Wm. Duncan, Justice of the Peace," who then held sway over the town of Brady, then embracing the south half of the county. The plat and grants accompanying it may be seen in Liber A of Deeds, page 8, in the Register's office The county-seat had already been located by commissioners. Below their report is given, as it is a document of considerable historical interest, and embodies facts that will save repeating elsewhere :
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