USA > Nebraska > Custer County > History of Custer County, Nebraska; a narrative of the past, with special emphasis upon the pioneer period of the county's history, its social, commercial, educational, religous, and civic developement from the early days to the present time > Part 4
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If Nebraska is the central state of the Union. Custer county is the central county of the state. If Nebraska is the heart of the na- tion, Custer county is the heart of Nebraska, and in its relation to the entire country is the heart of the heart. All that Nebraska is in rank and place to the United States, Custer county is to other counties of the state. If there are advantages in a central location, they accrue, in the whole, to Custer county. So far as north and south are concerned the north line of the county is eighty-three miles south of the north line of the state, while the south line of the county is seventy-two miles north of the south line of the state. In its relation to east and west, the cast line of the county is one hundred and seventy-four miles west of the average east line of the state, and the west line of the county is one hundred and sixty-two miles east of the average west line of the state. This places the geographical center of the state well into the heart of Cus- ter county. As nearly as can be ascertained by map measurements, the northwest corner of township 18, range 23 west. township 18 north, is the geographical center of Nebraska. This falls in Custer county and is approxi- mately four miles south of Anselmo.
But since it is best, perhaps, to trace its boundaries so as to record size as well as location, drive a stake down on the northeast corner of section 1. township 20 north, range
17 west. 6th principal meridian, then run a straight line west fifty-four miles over hills and valleys to the northwest corner of sec- tion 6. township 20 north, range 25 west. thence south in a straight line forty-eight miles to the southwest corner of section 31. township 13 north, thence east in a line straight and true to the southeast corner of section 36, township 13 north, range 17 west. thence north forty-eight miles, as the sur- veyor would say, to the place of beginning. Now we have run the boundaries of the coun- ty. We have enclosed seventy-two townships of thirty-six sections cach or a tract of land containing 2,592 square miles. The average man can perhaps best understand the extent of territory if it is described in acres. Cus- ter county contains 1,658,880 acres of land.
TABLE LANDS AND VALLEYS
'The general topography of the county might he described as rolling or undulating, ranging from precipitous and broken cliffs along the rivers to the level lands of tables and valleys. There are several plateaus which are com- monly called table land, and accordingly have received their respective cognomens. In the central part of the county is the celebrated "West" table. a very fertile, productive soil region and the largest table in the county. Directly cast across on the eastern side of the dale or Merna valley is the "East" table.
36
37
JHISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
Over in the northeast section of the county the ty, nine miles west of the southeast corner. "French" table and "Boggs" table have promi - 'The Middle Loup valley is approximately for- ty-eight miles long and from three to eight miles wide. It comes in from the north, crossing the county line in the exact center of the county east and west, and runs out through the cast line of the county eighteen miles south of the northeast corner. In ad- dition to these major valleys there are smaller valleys, along the creeks and smaller streams, that are unnamed. Other well defined val- leys have been given place and name on the nent place and are celebrated for their pro- ductive farm lands. South of the center of the county is the "Ryno" table. In the south- cast corner there is a large tract of table land that is called "Blackhill Basin." Let no man think because this table is called the "Blackhill Basin" that it is not table land. All plateaus or tables are higher at their outer edge or rim than in the center. The southwest corner of the county has a monopo-
[ Photo by S. D. Butcher]
OWL,'S NEST IN CHEESEBROUGH CANYON Near West Union, Custer county
ly of small tables. Here are located "Red- fern" table, "Stop" table, "Tallin" table. "Od- ensciants" table, "Rock Island" table, and sey- cral others.
Along with the tables go the valleys, and if the county is celebrated for its table-land it is also noted for its extensive and fertile valleys. The South Loup valley leads all the valleys of the county in size. It is ap- proximately sixty miles long and from three to five miles wide. It enters the county at the west line, west and north of Arnold, and runs out through the south line of the coun-
Custer county map and demand a place and name in this volume. In the northwest sec- tion of the county are Dale valley, Ortello val- ley, Eureka valley, Sand valley, Hoosier val- ley, and Muddy Creek valley. Over in the northeast the valleys are dignified by the name of parks, accordingly we have Cum- mings Park, Woods Park, Lee's Park, and Spencer Park. Roten valley is over in the southeast corner of the county. All these valleys are generally level, deep-soiled, and well-watered and in an carly day were very attractive to home-seekers, They were the
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
first lands to be settled and accordingly are to-day the sites of the oldest farms.
In addition to the two forks of the Loup river which flow through the county there are several other small streams which af- fect more or less the topography of the coun- ty, -Clear creek, in the east portion of the county, the Muddy, originating in the center of the county and flowing down toward the southeast corner : Deer creek. Spring creek, Ash creek. and Wood river are all in the south half of the county. Over in the north, Victoria creek, Lillian creek, and Rifle creek are the principal water courses, outside of the rivers. The lineal measurements of Custer county's rivers and creeks are more than two hundred and fifty miles. In the early days many of these streams were well wooded with ash. box-elder. jack oak, willow. eln. and other varieties, among which red cedar figured prominently.
UNDULATIONS TABULATED
A more detailed description of the topog- raphy of the county given by townships and ranges as displayed in the records of the state office of the surveyor general is as fol- lows :
RANGE 17
Township 13. Rolling: black loam; fine grass lind.
Township 14. Rolling : black loam ; smooth valley along Muddy creek.
Township 15. Rolling : black loam ; smooth valley along Muddy creek.
Township 16. Fine valley along Clear creek ; balance rolling.
Township 17. All rolling ; black loam : fine grass land.
Township 18. East of Middle Loup ; quite sandy; west, fine, irrigation ditch in opera- tion.
Township 19. Sandy in Loup valley, fer- tile ; balance rolling, grass land.
Township 20. Rolling, fine black loam, good grass land.
RANGE 18
Township 13. Rolling: fine black loam; fine farms in Elk creek valley. rest grazing.
Township 14. Good farms along Elk creek ; balance rolling. fertile.
Township 15. Muddy creek valley, fertile : balance rolling.
Township 16. Rolling, except in Clear and Muddy creek valleys.
Township 17. Fine valley land along creek, with rolling, grass land between.
Township 18. Fine valley, surrounded by rolling, grass land.
Township 19. Middle Loup valley, fertile. some sand ; rolling south of river.
Township 20. Nearly all rolling: some rather rough, good grass land.
RANGE 19
Township 13. Fine ranches along South Loup ; balance rolling ; black soil.
Township 14. Rolling; black loam; good valleys.
Township 15. Rolling: black loam: good valleys.
Township 16. Fine valleys along Muddy and Dutchman creeks: balance rolling, good.
Township 17. Good valley along Clear creek ; balance rolling, good land.
Township 18. Several small valleys, very fertile : balance rolling.
Township 19. Good valley north of Middle Loup, south, sandy ; balance rolling, with good valleys.
Township 20. Rolling, but good land.
RANGE 20
Township 13. Rolling; black loam: fine valley along Loup.
Township 14. Good valley along Loup; balance rolling.
Township 15. Rolling; rough in north part.
Township 16. Good along Muddy creek; balance rolling, rough in south.
Township 17. Good along Muddy and Clear creeks : balance rolling.
Township 18. Rolling with good valleys.
Township 19. Good valleys along Middle Loup river and Lillian creek ; rolling in south part with good valleys: Lillian irrigation ditch.
Township 20. Good valley along Middle Loup ; balance rolling.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
RANGE 21
Township 13. Very fine land along Wood river ; balance rolling.
Township 14. Rolling, except along Loup river.
Township 15. Rolling; fine grass land.
Township 16. Fine Jevel land in south- west : some sand in northeast; balance roll- ing.
Township 17. Fine valley in northwest ; table-land in northeast ; balance rolling, some sand.
Township 18. Table-land in south ; fine valley in center : balance rolling.
Township 19. Fine valley along Victoria creek ; balance rolling, some sand.
Township 20. Middle Loup valley ; balance rolling and sandy.
RANGE 22
Township 13. Rolling; good valleys and grass land.
Township 14. Wood river valley, fertile ; balance rolling.
Township 15. South Loup river and Spring creek valleys, good; balance rolling, rough.
Township 16. Rolling with good valleys ; good soil ; grass land.
Township 17. Northwest part fine table- land ; northeast part good valley ; east, sandy.
Township 18. East part fine valley ; bal- ance rolling, with good valleys.
Township 19. Southeast good valley : bal- ance sandy and rolling.
Township 20. Sandy, rolling land; good ranches.
RANGE 23
Township 13. Rolling lands with good val- leys ; good table-land in northeast part.
Township 14. South part fine table-land ; balance rolling, good valleys.
Township 15. South part rough ; large val- ley : Loup valley and west of township sandy loam.
Township 16. Good valley along South Loup : balance rough, rolling.
Township 17. North and east parts fine table-lands; rest rolling, rough.
Township 18. Southwest fine table : Ortel- lo valley, fertile : north part sandy, rolling.
Township 19. Rolling, sandy land; good ranches.
Township 20. Rolling, sandy land, good ranches.
RANGE 24
Township 13. Rolling land with good val- leys.
Township 14. Some fine table-land; bal- ance rolling.
Township 15. South third rolling ; central third valley, sandy; north third sandy and rough.
Township 16. Good valley along Loup; balance rolling and rough.
Township 17. Rolling and rough grazing land: northeast table-land.
Township 18. South part fine table-land ; balance rolling ; north some sand.
Township 19. Rolling, sandy. grass land.
Township 20. Rolling, sandy land ; ranches.
RANGE 25
Township 13. Rolling lands with good val- leys.
Township 14. Rolling lands with good val- leys and table-lands.
Township 15. Fine table-land; valley in eastern part.
Township 16. Rolling land ; some sand in north part.
Township 17. Good valley along South Loup ; balance rolling, rough.
Township 18. Rough, rolling. grazing lands.
Township 19. Rolling, sandy ; grass lands ; ranches.
Township 20. Rolling, sandy ; grass lands ; ranches.
Custer county has a deep, rich soil. well suited to all kinds of agriculture and grass production. In the north and west part of the county is a region known as the sand hills, but these hills are well grassed and pro- duce continually a nutritious crop of more than forty different kinds of grasses. These grasses are very nutritious and make splendid grazing for cattle. Many of the valleys in
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
the sand hill region have a mixture of clay or black loam in the sand composition which makes them profitable for farming or agri- cultural purposes. In all other sections of the county the hills are generally clay sub- soil and in addition to producing luxuriant grasses produce in abundance all kinds of agricultural products. The table lands and valleys are adapted to all kinds of grains and especially to the growth of alfalfa.
NO TECHNICAL TERMS
In the description of soil, it does not serve . the purpose to be technical. This is not a scientific treatise. Geologists tell us that the soils of the county that are tillable are of cretaceous rock formation, or in other words decomposed rock. When decomposition was complete the soil thus formed was distributed over the lower levels by the action of wind and water. A recent soil survey of central Nebraska west of Hall and Howard counties, made by the United States government, desig- nates the soil of Custer county generally as "Colby silt." Silt is defined as mud and fine earth deposited by water, and in its distri- bution, if not in its production, the water has always been aided and abetted by the wind. Generally speaking, the soil is from a few feet to many feet in depth and may be divided into three principal kinds. The allu- vial soils of the creeks and river valleys are called Lincoln loams. The hills or upland table soils are called "Colby silt" and the sandy silt, ranging from a good sandy soil to almost pure sand, is found on top of the sand dunes. All these soils have value in the propagation of plant life. The soil charac- ter so far as the valleys are concerned is gen- erally uniform. For miles on either side of the streams the alluvial soil belongs to the Lincoln silt series and is rich in humus and very productive. This silt has a strata of Colby silt, washed from the hills and higher ground in the formative periods. The Colby silt of the hills or upland tables is also uniform and exceedingly productive when climatic con- ditions are favorable. Like the soils of the valley it contains nitrogen, potash, and phos-
phorate in sufficient amounts to produce abun- dant plant life.
For a full three dozen years the soils of Custer county have been in cultivation, and during these years, when rainfall was suffici- ent, have justified the claim that they are well adapted to agricultural purposes.
Underneath the soil stratum lies a deep bed of glacial gravel, through which flows an in- exhaustible quantity of purest water, very soft, and free from mineral compositions. All deep wells in the county go down into this gravel stratum and are thus guaranteed the finest kind of water, in absolutely inexhausti- ble quantities.
HARVEY'S CONTRIBUTION
[ Robert Harvey, the man who ran the lines of Custer county survey and who has been Nebraska state surveyor for many years, makes the following contribution to this vol- ume] :
The territory embraced within the limits of my exterior lines was a tract thirty-six miles north and south and forty-eight miles east and west, and during the progress of the work there naturally occurred incidents of trivial moment at the time and few of them found a mention in the field notes of surveys or in the reports to the surveyor general ; but as the years pass and the generations succeed each other on the stage of action their thoughts turn back to the first things, first happenings and the first movements toward planting a new civilization.
In all new countries a certain line of alleged incidents becomes current, stock stories and traditions, and some have found their way into published histories as historic facts.
I will endeavor in the following pages brief- ly to tell the story of some of the incidents which occurred in connection with my party and progress of the work and observations made, some of which are of record and some of memory.
BRIDGING CLEAR CREEK
The party was organized and outfitted at St. Paul, Howard county, and on going to the
4I
HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
work I proceeded up the south side of the Middle Loup and over the table land to Clear creek, which I found to be about ten feet wide and five feet deep, near the north line of sec- tion 1, township 15 north, range 17 west, The banks were soft and there was no timber within five or six miles, except a small chimp of box-elders near our camp. I cut steps in the banks and on these set four ten-gallon water casks, two on each bank, and upon these we placed the empty wagon-box. For approaches, the end-gates and the box - elders, were used. The supplies were car- ried over and the four mules led through, all with- in two hours. A few days after- ward two survey- ing parties of about eighteen men spent half a day building a bridge six miles below, of cotton- wood logs, cut in a nearby canyon.
A MUTINY
After reaching our initial, which was the corner of townships 14 and 15 north, ranges 17 and 18 west, on the south side of Muddy creek, I ran north six miles, when, upon reaching camp, I found that the camp men, unused to conserving the water supply, had nearly exhausted it, so after a late dinner I told the men we would hitch up and run the line a mile or two north to where I sup- posed the creek to be, and camp for the night. Two of the men revolted, struck, said they had done their day's work and would
ROBERT HARVEY, STATE SURVEYOR
go no farther. I had not known these men before they were engaged, they having been recommended to me. During our travel to the work they had studiously avoided reach- ing the noon and night camps until after the camp work was done, but always in time for their meals; jocosely they said to the men, out of my hearing, that they were out on a "lark," a "picnic" and to "have a good time." Now I considered the time had come when there must be a "show of hands." so after explain- ing the necessity for the move and their still declin- ing to move. I told them they could either obey orders or quit : they said they would quit. I told them to turn in theirarmsand am- munition (which belonged to the government ), roll their blankets, take two days' ra- tions and get out- side of the camp ground within fif- teen minutes, and that fifteen meant fifteen and not sixteen ; it was done and they + walked out. When the surveyor gen- eral heard of this he mildly reprimanded me, saying that it was a dangerous procedure to discharge men in an In- dian infested county, but I said they were given a choice and they volunteered to quit. In after years when I went into the jurisdiction of an- other surveyor general, in one of the southwes- tern territories, I found I had a record, the story had preceded me. I was compelled, how- ever, to return and procure other men.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
FIND RUINS OF OLD FORTIFICATIONS
I completed the township lines south of the fourth standard parallel, returned to the east side of the work. and began running the lines between the fourth and fifth parallels. On running east on the line between townships 18 and 19. range 17, we found on the right bank of the Loup river a circular line of fortifica- tions overgrown with grass and extending from bank to bank. In the grass we found rust-eaten tin plates and tin cups and in the brush on the east side an old set of hay scales.
AN IMPENDING INDIAN BATTLE
This was in section 33, township 19, range 17 north. Being nearly out of provisions. 1 only ran this line east to the river and pro- ceeded down the river to the upper end of an island which I think is about opposite Comstock, and camped close to the river bank. On the west. about fifty or a hundred yards, was a broad, bulrush slough which entered the river farther down. I thought this a good defensive position against Indians, as the only way they could get at us with their ponies would be to come down along the narrow strip of solid ground between the ruin and slough for a mile or two.
While the cook was getting dinner. I looked across the valley and noticed several horse- men on the bluffs, who were going southeast toward the river, and before reaching the val- ley they saw us and came directly toward our camp; of course, they were Indians. I there- fore sent the two best shots into the bulrushes with instruction not to let them cross the slough, while we threw up a line of breast- works in front of the camp. While thus en- gaged I got into the wagon, so I could see across the swamp. Someone said, "Where is Jim Scott?" His spade was in the rifle pit but he was gone and the word went round that Jim had run. The wagon stood close to the cut bank and looking over I saw Jim putting on a new pair of overalls. I yelled, "Jim, what are you doing? Why ain't you (ligging?" "Well, boss," said Jim, "I just thought if we are to fight I don't want to
be found dead in an old pair of ragged over- alls."
No sound came from the bulrushes. neither could I see any signs of Indians or my two men, when finally one of the men appeared and called that they were white men and soldiers. Captain John Mix, of a cavalry command, was out on reconnoisance and was camped about two miles down the river, be- hind some timber, and these men were return- ing hunters for the command.
A CAMP FIRE
After having received supplies I continued the range line north. I camped at the corner of townships 18 and 20, ranges 17 and 18, and completed the line between townships 19 and 20. range 18. in the afternoon. Next morn- ing I found that the teamster. Charley Storey. had brought, from the river the evening be- fore, only one barrel of water and the stock and camp had used nearly all of it, leaving only a small supply for use of the men and team that were to go north to the county line, or parallel. So Storey was instructed to re- turn to the river for more water.
The tent stood about three chains north of the township corner and it had to be taken down so that I could see to set the flagman. We reached the county line at noon and at the last flag station, on a hill just south of the line, I looked back and noticed a thin column of smoke shooting straight up and directly over the line. We hurriedly ate our din- ner and hurried back to camp, and from the bluff overlooking the valley saw that the camp was on fire. the tent down and men trying to put out the fire. It seemed that after we had started north on the line the cook concluded to go with Storey to the river. for Storey's father had been killed by the Indians and he was very unsafe to be trusted alone. Before going, however. he dug a trench, emptied the fire box of the sheet iron stove into it, sprinkled water on the living coals and then covered them over with earth. They were at the river when they noticed the smoke, but the cook ran the three miles, reached camp before the tent fell. saved
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY, NEBRASKA
the small trench containing field notes and maps, etc., and carried out the box of five hundred rounds of paper cartridge ammuni- tion for revolvers. The pine box had burned through at one corner, scorched the inside pa- per lining and in perhaps another instant the entire contents would have exploded. The tent, one wagon-cover, all of our bedding, ex- tra clothing, and the grain and flour sacks were consumed. John M. Daugherty, who was running section lines, was camped in front of the entrance to Woods Park and lent us what assistance he could by loaning us grain sacks, boxes, etc., to hold what we were able to save, and some extra blankets. Mr. Daugherty's party was at dinner when they saw the smoke and through a field glass said they saw some men at the camp, saw the team returning from the river and saw the tent fall. They thought it was Indians raiding the camp. It was suggested that the two men discharged in July, had returned to commit the depredation. Upon examination it was found that the dry buffalo grass had not been burned for several feet around the stove, and there was no evidence of there having been an explosion of the buried coals. I have never been able to formulate a satisfactory theory as to the cause of this fire. This caused me a loss of several days in going to the settlement on the Loup where I was loaned tents, blankets, etc., by Captain Munon, of Company C. Ninth United States Infantry, who was then camped near the present town of Cotesfield, Howard county.
FIND AN ERROR ON FIFTH PARALLEL
Resuming work. I returned to the 4th paral- lel and projected the next range line with its complement of township lines, and at the end of the twenty-four miles I should have intersected the 5th parallel or county line north of a cedar canyon, and after a half day's search found the corner nearest my in- tersection had within a few days been torn down and a new one built about fifty rods west, and on the west side of the canyon near a pine tree. Here was more trouble.
My camp was on the north side of the
Loup river and Daugherty's camp on the south side below. On my return 1 reported to Daugherty what I had found and proposed a joint examination. He opposed it, as it would cause a loss of time and besides that, that our authority was to close on the line as we found it. We locked horns at once. I in- sisted that according to my closing six miles east a few days before a great balk had been made somewhere along the line and we would have to show to the surveyor general's office that it was not in our lines, by pointing out by an examination when it existed, and since I had the township lines between the 5th and 1th parallels I would then have to explain the discrepancy. In fact, I would not be able to run their lines until it was reported and passed upon by the surveyor general. Fur- ther, that I proposed to find the error and re- port it, as neither of us would be able to get pay for any work in townships 20 in any of the ranges until it was settled. I insisted that he should bear a part of the expense, so it was finally agreed that next morning he bring his team and two or three men, and that I should send to his camp three men so that his work could go on. We spent two days on that examination and found that Park had torn down his original line and set all of the corners west from fifty to sixty rods for five miles and from the southwest corner of section 36. range 18, had set a section corner west 15.80 chains and marked it for the corner of sections 34 and 35, which we found on the west side of the canyon among some trees and south of the old Kent postoffice in Loup county. The corner one mile west of it was marked the same. The construction of the new corners showed fraud, for some of them were scarcely distinguishable. We left them as found, for we knew they must or should be destroyed and a new line run. On our return to camp we made out a report to the surveyor general. read it to the assistants, which were subscribed to before us. Next day Mr. Daugherty, being in need of pro- visions, sent his team and driver with one of my men to St. Paul, with the report to be mailed to the surveyor general. We also
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