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Gc 974.202 St82t 1152352
M. L.
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
GEN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01188 4225
STRATFORD PEAKS
HISTORY
OF THE
TOWN OF STRATFORD
NEW HAMPSHIRE
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1773-1925
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By JEANNETTE R. THOMPSON
Published by Vote of the Town 1925
Printed by THE RUMFORD PRESS Concord, New Hampshire
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Copyright, 1925 By the Selectmen of Stratford, New Hampshire
1152352 FOREWORD
In the years between 1880 and 1890, approximately, the Rev. Lucius W. Prescott, at the request of the Hon. Fred N. Day and others, collected a considerable amount of valuable historical data of the town of Stratford, New Hampshire.
Mr. Prescott had been a former pastor in the town, had married one of Stratford's daughters, and during the preparation of his work had the assistance of many of the old residents, and access to documents and family records no longer available.
The history was prepared for the press, but the town at that time did not find itself ready to publish it. Through the recom- mendation of the history committee-Charles D. Platt, Fred N. Day, Rev. Joseph S. Brown, and Guy W. Johnson, M.D.,-who had rendered invaluable aid to Mr. Prescott in the preparation of the work, it ran as a serial in the Berlin Independent during the years 1897-99.
In March, 1923, when the town of Stratford was making preparations to celebrate fittingly its one hundred and fiftieth anniversary, it was decided to put into permanent form this material, of so much value and interest to the town, and thus to preserve for all time these early records of the history of Stratford, the story of her settlement, of the sturdy character of her pioneers, and the names and deeds of the men and women who had formed her citizenship through the one hundred and fifty years of her existence.
It was further decided to place this material in the hands of some one who should prepare the same, bringing the history down to date, with such additions and changes as should be deemed necessary in the preparation of a book that might be used in the schoolroom. This has necessitated almost completely rewriting the work; pages have been condensed into paragraphs, paragraphs into sentences, and what had little direct bearing upon the history of the town has been eliminated. Some portions have been retained in their original form for their old time savor, as they reflect the speech and manners of the periods to which these old narrators belonged. There has also been added to the
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FOREWORD
book much that did not appear in Mr. Prescott's history, which we believed should be incorporated in a work of this kind.
Great care has been taken to preserve whatever was of vital historical importance: the invaluable Proprietors' Records, the early town records, Revolutionary papers, etc., the originals of which are lost, and the personal reminiscences of those who are no longer with us, make this part of the book of inestimable historical value.
The genealogies, which were begun by Mr. Prescott, have been completed as far as possible. Their incompleteness is due to our being unable to gain the desired information. Since but few dates had been collected by Mr. Prescott, to obtain them after the lapse of so many years has been extremely difficult, and would have been impossible but for the generous aid of those who have come to our assistance in the loan of genealogies and in the search for missing names and dates.
To all who have cooperated in the preparation of this book we are very grateful. That it may in a degree measure up to the requirements, and meet the expectations of the citizens of Strat- ford, is our earnest desire.
JEANNETTE RICHARDSON THOMPSON.
North Stratford, N. H.,
June, 1925.
ANALYSIS OF CHAPTERS
CHAPTER I
THE TOWN OF STRATFORD
PAGE
General Description-Stratford's Brooks-Fish and Game -Flora-Mountains . I
CHAPTER II
GEOLOGICAL OR PHYSICAL HISTORY OF STRATFORD General Geological Story of Northern New Hampshire- Summary-The Rocks of Stratford-Soils II
CHAPTER III INDIAN HISTORY OF STRATFORD Indian Derivation of "Coös"-Indian Occupants-Tradi- tions-Customs-Stratford's Strategic Situation- Some Indian Characters. 19
CHAPTER IV STRATFORD'S EARLY HISTORY Charters and Settlements-Explorations-French and Indi- an War in the Upper Coös-Progress of Settlements- Proprietors-"Pitches"-First Wedding 24
CHAPTER V
CHARTERS AND PROPRIETORS' RECORDS Charter of Woodbury-Names of Proprietors of Woodbury -Woodbury's Proprietors' Records-Charter of Strat- ford-Names of Proprietors of Stratford-Proprietors' Records-Early Real Estate Transfers-Judd's Survey 38
CHAPTER VI THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR Settlements in the Upper Coös at this Time-Patriotic Peti- tion-Alarms-Fort Wentworth-Committee of Safety -Indian Raids-Captives-Petition for Guards- Military Records. 99
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ANALYSIS OF CHAPTERS
CHAPTER VII AFTER THE REVOLUTION Town Incorporated-Early Families-Difficulties of Travel -Stratford's City-Extracts from Judd's Survey . IIO
CHAPTER VIII EARLY RECORDS First Town Meeting-From 1780 to 1784-Care of the Poor -Non-Resident Land Owners-First Jurors-Town Inventories 118
CHAPTER IX
LIFE IN THE EARLY DAYS OF STRATFORD Character of the Houses-Home Industries-Furniture and Furniture Makers-A Famous Quilting Party-Dan- gers from the River-Wild Animals-A Joker-Annual Musters 123
CHAPTER X
STRATFORD'S ROADS AND HIGHWAYS The First Highway-Taxes-Roads in General-Highway Districts-Bridges-Present-Day Highways I32
CHAPTER XI STRATFORD'S TAVERNS Conditions of Travel in Early Days-The Beach Place- The Porter Place-The Hall Tavern-The Dennison Inn-The Hinman House-Old Time Hospitality . ... I43
CHAPTER XII FARMS AND RESIDENCES First Buildings-Following Up the River-"Out East" 149
CHAPTER XIII STRATFORD'S SCHOOLS
Early Lack of Educational Privileges-School Districts- The First Stove-Early Teachers-Visiting Commit- tees and Superintendents-Wages of Teachers-Un- equal School Years-Text-Books-Later Teachers- School Boards-High School-Present Conditions. ... 155
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ANALYSIS OF CHAPTERS
CHAPTER XIV
STRATFORD'S CHURCHES
Religious Traditions of First Settlers-Early Preachers: Antipas Marshall, Benjamin Brown-First Meeting House-Clerical Experiences-Methodist Church- Baptist Church-Roman Catholic Church-Episcopal Mission . I68
CHAPTER XV
STRATFORD HOLLOW BUSINESS Settlement-John Gamsby's Mill-Other Mills-Early Merchants-In 1847-Since 1850. 189.
CHAPTER XVI NORTH STRATFORD BUSINESS
Beginnings-Nulhegan Mills-Toll Bridge-Coming of the Railroad-First Merchants-Development of Business -Hotels-Fires-Later Industries-Reform Move- ments-Fraternities-Automobiles-Electric Lights- Telephone Service-Libraries-Water System-New Hampshire Stave and Heading Mill-Memorials- Other Improvements-Brunswick Springs-Railroad Development. 20I
CHAPTER XVII
STRATFORD'S POST OFFICES Early Postal Limitations-The First Post Office and Car- rier-Postage Rates-Stratford Postmasters-North Stratford's Postal History 241
CHAPTER XVIII STRATFORD'S PHYSICIANS Medical Limitations in Early Days-Physicians since 1850 247
CHAPTER XIX
SOCIETIES IN STRATFORD Temperance Societies First Organized-Grange-Church Societies-Knights of Honor-Knights of Pythias- Pythian Sisters 254
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ANALYSIS OF CHAPTERS
CHAPTER XX STRATFORD'S LIBRARIES The Beginnings-Provision Made by the Town-Both Vil- lages Provided for 26I
CHAPTER XXI
STRATFORD'S SOLDIERS
Revolutionary Records-Indian Stream Republic-Mex- ican War-Civil War-Stratford's Fine Record in this War-Lists and Military Records-G. A. R. Post, No. 77-Sketch of Lieut. R. R. Thompson-Stratford in the World War-List of World War Soldiers-Amer- ican Legion-Sketch of Harry L. Curtis 265
CHAPTER XXII SOCIAL LIFE IN STRATFORD
Change in Character of Town in Last Seventy-five years- Types of Social Gatherings-Dramatic and Musical Organizations-In "The Hollow"-In North Strat- ford-Memorial Day. Observances-Camp Meetings and Picnics-Elections-150th Anniversary 297
GENEALOGIES
Genealogies of More than Thirty of the Old First Families. 3II
APPENDIX
First Things-King Philip's Deed-Revolutionary State Papers-Petitions-Town Records from 1800 to 1829 -Town Officers from 1780 to 1925. 462
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Frontispiece-Stratford Peaks.
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Mountains. 6
Bowback Range from the Northeast IO
Indian Trading Post Marker 23
Charter without Seal . 36
Seal and Signatures on Charter 37
Plan of Stratford, New Hampshire . . 100-IOI
Marker of the First Settlers of Stratford . I22
Older Residents of Stratford. 124
First Church of North Stratford Marker I3I
Stratford's Oldest Taverns
I44
Baldwin Homestead Marker
I54
Schools of Stratford I56
Members of School Committee 164
Marker of First School House.
167
Churches of Stratford . 169
Pastors of Stratford Hollow
I7I
Pastors of North Stratford
180
The Religious Center of North Stratford.
187
The Bridge over Connecticut River at Stratford Hollow. 188
Stratford Hollow Business Men
193
North Stratford in Early 60's . 200
Business Men of North Stratford-Group I 204
Business Men of North Stratford-Group 2 207 The Willard House 210
Business Men of North Stratford-Group 3 216
New Hampshire Stave and Heading Mill 227
Public Buildings of North Stratford . 229
Mineral Bow and Brunswick Springs 237
Physicians of North Stratford 246
Library Hall 264
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Soldiers 266
Approaches to North Stratford
296
Old Residents of Stratford .
30I
Scenes of Old Home Week, 1923
307
Baldwin Homestead 312
Brown Homestead 336
Platt Homestead
In Genealogy, page 432
Map. End of book
HISTORY OF STRATFORD CHAPTER I
THE TOWN OF STRATFORD
RIVERS are the empire builders of the world, and no other river has played so large a part in the settlement and development of New England as the beautiful Connecticut, "the long river" of the Indians. Its wonderful valley was jealously guarded by them, until the lure of its broad and fertile meadows, its grand forests, and its abundant game drew the settler to wrest it from them.
From the time when the Connecticut emerges from its source in the northern wilds of New Hampshire, a narrow and rapid river, whose winding course is supposed to have given the country through which it passes the name Coös (crooked) until it flows after 450 miles of journeyings, a broad and placid stream into the Sound, the way is marked by beauty and fertility. The towns that lie along its banks are prosperous, either by the rich alluvial soil it has distributed in its path, the fine water power, or the valuable timber lands that guard its northern borders.
Stratford is one of these favored towns, situated about fifty miles from the Connecticut Lakes. Its western border stretches for more than ten miles along the river, which separates it from Brunswick, Vt. On the east is the wooded township of Odell, Columbia lies on the north, and Northumberland on the south. It forms one of the links in the chain of New Hampshire towns that are found in the narrowest and most picturesque parts of the Connecticut valley.
Stratford is rectangular in shape and was granted 48,603 acres. In June 21, 1832, the southeast corner (ranges 17, 18, 19, 20) comprising some 4,000 acres was set off and annexed to Stark.
Only about 12,000 acres of the town are considered available for tillage, the remainder being devoted to the valuable timber- lands that spread their rugged hillsides over nearly three fourths of the whole territory. The arable lands lie in rich intervales along the river, or in the wake of the mountain streams that have broken down their rocky barriers. These distinctive features render Stratford one of the wealthiest towns in the state as to its
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
timber values, and give it a type of scenery that ranks it high in a region where grandeur and beauty of scene prevail; while its well cultivated farms, comfortable homes, fine public buildings and thriving business attest the thrift and enterprise of its citizens.
The town received its name from Stratford, Conn., the home of many of the earliest settlers, which is beautifully situated in the valley of the Housatonic, about one and one half miles from Long Island Sound. It was settled in 1689 and was the seventh plan- tation in Connecticut. The Indian name was Cupheag, but the English gave it the name of Stratford from the old town upon the Avon, from which some of their number had come.
STRATFORD'S BROOKS
Stratford possesses no lakes nor ponds of any size. The town, however, is well supplied with mountain brooks, which have played an important part in her industrial life.
In the north is Lyman Brook. Starting in the wildest and most mountainous part of the town, it flows a turbulent course for six miles, the latter part in the town of Columbia, where it empties into the Connecticut. There are three forks to this brook: known as North, South and Dexter. Valleys and notches have been cut by this tumultuous stream in its descent, a feeble remnant of the mighty torrents that once rushed through them, forcing a passage in their almost irresistible current unless they were hindered by the invulnerable granitic substance of Strat- ford's hills thrown up in peaks and ranges by volcanic action long ages before the glacial currents were set in motion. The sound of the rushing waters of this mountain stream over its rocky bed, often over boulders weighing many tons, can be heard for miles, gaining it the name of "Roaring Brook". by the early settlers.
Kimball Brook, four miles south, a little stream about two and a half miles in length, descends from old Bowback in a cascade forty rods long, and then flows quietly along, except in the spring freshets, when it brings down to the river a volume of water that in early days annually swept away the little bridges that spanned it. This brook with attendant springs fills the reservoir that supplies North Stratford with water. It received its name from the farm through which it flows, owned for over half a century by George Kimball, who came here soon after 1812.
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
Bissel Brook, on land once owned by Thomas Bissel, is about three miles below North Stratford village and has its rise also in the Bowback Range. It flows as one stream for a mile, then separates into two currents for a mile and a half, when the two streams empty into the Connecticut about a mile apart. The northern branch is called Baldwin Brook, the lower Stony, from its rocky bed.
Little Bog Brook, a considerable stream from the same moun- tain range, passes through the ravine north of the Hogback, much of its lower course flowing through marshy land.
In the eastern part of the town we have Bog Brook, a stream eight miles in length. Rising near Sugar Loaf it drains nearly half the town, receiving the waters of English Brook, Barnes' Brook and East Branch from the east, while Stone Brook and other minor streams contribute their waters from the west.
Nash Stream, rising in the heights of Odell, passes through the southeast corner of the town and empties into the Ammo- noosuc in Stark.
On the south is a little brook that flows into Jonathan Pond, and Gaskill's or Norcutt's Brook (which also runs through the old Governor's Corner) flows southerly through several North- umberland farms before its waters are contributed to the river.
FISH AND GAME
The land through which Bog Brook passes is much of the way low and swampy, and a dam built some seventy years ago to gain greater water power, flooded quite a section so that a sheet of water some three-quarters of a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide was formed. This, and a little pond called Round Pond, at the foot of Sugar Loaf, furnish favorite fishing grounds. Sev- eral cottages have been built along its banks, and "The Bogs" is a popular place for a few days recreation in camping and fish- ing. Others prefer a day's outing in following the course of the mountain stream with hook and line, casting it into the deep shady pools and among the granite boulders where the speckled beauties love to linger.
Salmon and shad were found in the river by the first settlers but its only fish now are the pickerel, horn pout, sucker and eel. The brook trout furnish the principal sport for the fisherman.
The moose, the wolf and the beaver, now entirely disappeared,
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
were here in large numbers. The deer, bear, fox, lynx and bob- cat still afford sport for the hunter, while the mink, sable, musk- rat, weasel, fisher and skunk offer attractions to the trapper, and the partridge, rabbit, squirrel, woodchuck and hedgehog are still plentiful.
BIRDS
Our birds belong to the Canadian varieties. Eagles and heron are seen occasionally; wild geese and ducks do not remain long in their migratory passage. The crow we have always with us, the blue-jay and the red-winged blackbird, and at rare intervals the scarlet tanager dazzles us with his brilliant plumage. The Blackburnian warbler sometimes makes us a visit, but our birds are confined chiefly to our songsters, and from the advent of spring with the bluebird and robin, until they take their flight south- ward, the hills ring with their songs. Thrushes, including the hermit thrush, vireos, the peewee, swallows, phoebes, sparrows. The white-throated sparrow, whose challenging song has earned him the name of the Peabody bird, is perhaps the best known. There are gold-finches, the purple finch, and that rollicking bird of the meadows, the bobolink.
This is but a partial list of the birds most familiar to the citizens of Stratford, a complete one would include all the feathered song- sters found in the latitude.
FLORA
Stratford's high altitude and rigorous climate limits her flora to the Canadian varieties, but these comprise some of the sweetest and most beautiful of the wild flowers.
Of the spring blossoms the yellow adder's-tongue is one of our earliest, with the bellwort, Solomon's seal, and the delicate di- centra, familiarly known as Dutchman's breeches, and squirrel corn are close seconds. The dainty spring beauty, the shy anem- one, and starry bloodroot follow, with trilliums red and white, and masses of blue, white and yellow violets, and the Indian turnip, which later in the season develops his scarlet berries, hides his identity now under the green spathe of jack-in-the-pulpit.
For some unknown reason the arbutus is rare in Stratford, but prefers to flourish in the pine woods just across the river in Ver- mont.
The hepatica and columbine are also missing, and the lovely
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
Laurel does not grow so far north, but the family is represented by a degenerate, called sheep laurel or lamb kill.
Deep in the heart of the woods the partridge berry and twin flower trail their vines in mossy beds, together with the bunch berry and wintergreen and the waxen Dutchman's pipe, loving the haunts where the trailing evergreen spreads its verdant carpet.
In the shadow of the woods are ferns also, innumerable varieties, from the sturdy rook to the fragile maidenhair; and on the river- banks, where summer drouth has dried the channel, are found ferns with fronds five or six feet in length. The lady's slipper loves the seclusion of the woods also. Among the plants that linger near the brook-sides are the wild ginger or snake root, the arums, the blue flag, the brilliant cowslip and the fringed orchis.
The swamps flame with the pink azalea; hillsides and fields are whitened with innocents; there are clovers, red, white and yellow, where daisies and buttercups, dandelions, and that pest of farmers, paint brush, have not dislodged them.
The roadsides are hedged with flowering shrubs, willows, alders, shadbush, cherries, hobblebush and hardhack, the clematis clambering among them, and the sumac, that will delight us in the fall, when with the Virginia creeper, and sometimes also the sumac's dangerous cousin, the poison ivy, they will cover gray rocks and barren hillsides with fingers of flame.
Summer is often ushered in by the graceful orange lily. The milkweed and other flowering roadside plants spread umbels of bloom, the golden rod, fireweed, and finally the aster, harbinger of frosts.
These are the common flowers of Stratford, but hidden in the forests are many others, some of them flowering shrubs and plants, like the wild sarsaparilla, pipsissewa, or prince's pine, witch-hazel, cranberry.
In nuts we have the hazelnut, beech and butternut.
The fruit-bearing shrubs are the raspberry, blueberry, black- berry, cranberry, gooseberry, currant and cherry. The wild strawberry is also abundant.
A generation or two ago the Canada plum was commonly culti- vated, and small orchards of hardy apples were not uncommon, but the soil and climate are not well adapted to the raising of fruit, and as the years pass the qualities of soil, which fruit grow- ing requires, seems to lessen.
MOUNTAINS IN STRATFORD Bowback, Mt. Lightning at left, Sugar Loaf in distance, 4,213 ft.
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
MOUNTAINS
Stratford's mountains are her glory. In shape and structure they plainly show volcanic origin. Their steep granitic sides sternly refuse cultivation. They press their ranges forward to the Connecticut, making the valley narrower in this town than in those adjoining. These ranges are bold and picturesque in out- line, and heavily wooded to the very summit, except upon those mountains where vegetation was entirely destroyed many years ago by fire, leaving nothing but the bare rock. Percy Peaks, in the southeastern part of the town, whose bald summits are land- marks for miles around, and Lightning, in the northern part, where lightning was said to be the destroying agency, stand out with rugged distinction from the neighboring peaks. Vegetation is slowly but perceptibly creeping up over these hills to conceal the ravages so contrary to nature.
The highest range of hills running in a southerly direction is called Bowback, or Go Back. The name is sometimes applied only to its highest peak (in lot 134), height 2,986 feet. The east- ern side is very precipitous, and it is said that in making the first survey they were obliged to "go back." Judd calls it "Goback" in his survey of 1788, but maps of recent date give it the name Bowback, probably from the beautiful curves of its summits. It lies nearly west of Sugar Loaf. Foothills and lesser ranges accompany these outstanding peaks.
Sugar Loaf, 3,470 feet high, is a long mountain culminating in a towering peak, which is seen for sixty miles down the valley, and from whose summit the valley of the Connecticut with its panorama of villages, farms, mountains, streams and lakes makes a view second to none in this vicinity.
In the eastern part of the town is Stratford Mountain, some 2,000 feet high, while in the south, standing on the border line of Stark, rise those twin peaks. "So unique in formation and ap- pearance, known as Stratford or Percy Peaks. Conical and some- what isolated, they attract attention a long way off in coming from the south, being distinctly seen at Dalton, thirty miles away North Peak is 3,336 feet high, South Peak 3,149."
By a survey made recently, the line of division between Strat- ford and Stark would lie on the peak of the southern mountain, cutting off about one-third of the mountain from Stratford.
There are few mountains that so well repay the effort of climbing; the summit of the South Peak is easily gained from
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HISTORY OF STRATFORD
the southeast, but the western slope of this, as well as that of the North Peak, is so steep that it would require an expert in climbing to reach the summit of either peak from that direction. The view shows a great variety of scenery, for besides the many mountain peaks we have the upper Am- monoosuc and the Connecticut winding along the valleys, their waters reflecting the bright sunlight, and lakes and ponds surrounded by somber forests and wooded summits. Southeast the White Mountains rise in all their grandeur; south we have the long line of the Pilot Hills, and a little west of south we look down the valley of the Connecticut, and in the distance Moosilauke rises against the sky.
We quote the above from "Hitchcock's Geology of New Hamp- shire." In another chapter the geological structure of these peaks will be found.
Perhaps the wildest and most picturesque scenery in Stratford is found in the northeastern part of the town. Following the course of Lyman Brook to the elevation known as Meriden Hill, which lies partly in Stratford and partly in Columbia, one can view from its summit many other peaks, sharply cut notches, and well-defined valleys. Some of these have been given names as Notch Mountain, Morey, and Danforth, Hamell Valley, Wait's Valley.
We have said that "Stratford's mountains are her glory," and no one who is familiar with their beautiful outlines as they are thrown against the sky, whether they be clothed in summer green, or aflame with autumn's hues, or when under sunset skies the brilliant blues of winter melt into lovely tints of gold and purple and crimson, will contradict that statement.
It seems as if Nature would compensate the dweller among these hills for the cold and remoteness of this region by giving him mountains; so she lifts him up into a pure dry atmosphere where the cold shall be invigorating instead of penetrating; she places her ridges as a shield against wintry blasts; to temper the severe cold, or to moderate the heat, she covers them with forests, under whose sheltering branches lie the reservoirs of peat and moss, in which she stores up the rainfall, that shall preserve our water power, and prevent disastrous floods and summer drouths; and through every season of the year she surrounds him with beauty and inspiration.
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