USA > New Hampshire > Strafford County > Rochester > Annual report of the city of Rochester, New Hampshire : for the year ending 1922 > Part 4
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by the tablet recently placed by Mary Torr Chapter, D. A. R.
No minister, however, was provided for, to do the preaching. The proprietors were long on promises and voting to supply this lack but decidedly short when it came to paying over the taxes needed for the purpose. They thought the settlers ought to bear the expense, but the settlers were poor. Finally, the matter was taken to the General Assembly. It required several petitions and acts of the General Assembly to attain the final satisfactory result. When local self govern- ment was at last granted and power to tax non-resident land-owners, the problem was solved.
It is hard today to realize what the church meant in that year 1737. It was the very heart and center of the town. The land was valuable in proportion to its proximity to the church. It was the only public meet- ing place. It was the political, moral and social, as well as religious center of the community. And therefore, the erection of the meeting-house in 1737 marked the actual beginning of Rochester, and the calling of Amos Main to become its minister in May, 1737, was the com- pletion of its organization.
There is no time to dwell upon the character of Mr. Main. A Harvard graduate, a man of great learning, bravery, wisdom and personality, laboring here from 1737 until the day of his death in 1760, he left an im- press not only on Rochester but all the surrounding country which never died. He was not only minister of the Gospel but physician, lawyer and general advis- er. In fact, he was the leading man of the community. It is in view of this, that the statue to his memory now standing in Central square, one of the finest pieces of
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statuary to be found in New England, is exceedingly appropriate. There have been times in recent years when certain people have expressed disapproval of the idea of having the statue of a mere minister in such a conspicuous place. Such should realize that it is not as a clergyman of a particular religious denomination that Parson Main is thus honored, but as the real founder of Rochester, in the sense to which I have just re- ferred.
Parson Main's salary was fixed at the equivalent of thirty pounds sterling or about $150, a part of which he should take in such articles as he had occasion for, at the money price. The town agreed to build him a good frame house forty feet long, twenty feet wide and two stories high, wherever he might elect and when- ever he should call for it. By the original charter of the town, too, a whole share of the land was to be reserved for the first settled minister. So that, alto- gether, the remuneration, as conditions were then, was not nearly as poor as is that of many a minister of to- day. Like some modern churches, however, the town got behind on the minister's salary and did not take action to build the house agreed upon until 1744. The house built for Parson Main was his personal property. The parsonage belonging to the town, which still stands on the very summit of the hill and is now the property of John F. Quinlan, was not erected until the fall of 1760, after Parson Main's death.
Thus Rochester was founded, if not upon a rock, at least upon a magnificent hilltop. Most of these early New England communities were placed on some sightly elevation, probably for the practical reason that a watch might be kept on all sides for the approach of
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any savage foe. But the wonderful landscape must have had an inspiring effect on the minds of even these unemotional, rugged, serious-minded folks. Today, as one stands on the summit of Haven's Hill and allows his eyes to sweep the horizon, from historic Agamenti- cus on the York coast to the southeast, past Bauneg Beg towards the east, or from the three rounded and conspicuous Pawtuckaway hills to the southwest around to the range of Blue hills which form so charm- ing a background for the setting sun, finally resting his gaze upon the snow-clad and stately form of old Mt. Washington itself, rearing its lofty head 100 miles away to the north, one becomes spell-bound, lost in wonder and admiration, and filled with an inspiration that is a long time in disappearing, as one returns to the more prosaic scenes of the modern Rochester. How much more must all this have meant to the early settler, set down here in the wilderness, surrounded by hostile and cunning enemies, so in need of Divine help and guidance. How often must they have repeated to themselves, as they looked upon this wonderful scene: "I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help."
From the petition to the General Assembly, we learn that in that year of 1737, when the local government of Rochester began, there were some 60 families already settled in this community. Of course, these did not all live on the hill, which was nevertheless the center of things, but had their farms scattered over the country- side. The early New England settlers were a sturdy, hard-headed, rugged lot. Rochester had many men and women of character, force and high standing in the state among its first inhabitants.
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Perhaps I may be pardoned for a story or two about one of my own family, as showing something of the characters of those historic times. Colonel John McDuffee, born in this country in 1724 and one of Rochester's early inhabitants, had attained distinction and a commission as a soldier of the King in the French and Indians wars. He did valiant service in the siege of Louisburg, commanded a detachment under General Wolfe at the taking of Quebec and also engaged in Indian warfare. He was the first Rochester man elected to the Provincial Assembly. He was a delegate to the Provincial Congress at Exeter in 1775, was an officer in the Revolutionary war, was a representative in the state legislature in 1782 and was for four years a state senator, being chairman of the senate at one time. He was a man of noble form, six feet and two inches in height, independent and outspoken, being at times as vigorous in speech as he was always in action. In fact, he frequently resorted to language more forci- ble than elegant, according to tradition.
Governor Wentworth was a very proud-spirited and sensitive man, much impressed with the idea of his own dignity and importance. Having at one time taken offence at some uncomplimentary utterance of Colonel McDuffee, the Governor sent a military man, arrayed in uniform, as his second, bearing a note to the Colonel, challenging the latter to fight a duel. The meeting be- tween the two took place in the front room of the Colonel's colonial mansion, which still stands on the Dover road near the electric car track. With the form and ceremony, politeness and etiquette, characteristic of dueling days, the Governor's emissary introduced himself and presented the formal note of which he was
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the bearer. The colonel read it through carefully and, as its import impressed itself upon him, the clouds be- gan to gather on his brow. Finally, he crumpled the paper in his hand, and with lightning fires flashing from his eyes, and clenched fists, he took two steps towards his punctilious visitor. "Damn you," he roared, in a voice of thunder, "you start your boots." The Governor's emissary cast one frightened glance at the Colonel's towering form and then he proceeded to "beat it," in the language of a more modern time. He didn't stop running until well out of sight and sound, and that was the last heard of the duel.
The Colonel was himself a bachelor, having been disappointed in love, it is said, but he adopted the son of his brother, Capt. Daniel McDuffee. My own grand- father was the son of this adopted son and lived in his boyhood at the Colonel's house. In my childhood, in the course of many a ride with my grandfather, the latter told me anecdotes of his grandfather by adop- tion, some of which I pass on as illustrative of the ideas and characters of these interesting historic times.
One day for example, the Colonel told his adopted grandson of being out in the woods, when he saw an Indian by a tree, making signs of friendliness. “I raised my gun," related the old Colonel, in the most matter-of-fact way, "and was just going to shoot him, when I thought, 'Why not let the poor cuss live?' And so I did." An Indian and his life were no more than the wild animals of the forest to the pioneers of those days.
As may be imagined, the Colonel, although sound in the faith, was not a great theologian. One day, as he was walking in the field with his adopted grandson, the
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latter propounded a series of questions. "Did God make this field grandpa?" he began. "Of course he did." "Did God make the sky and the clouds ?" "Yes." "Did God make the trees and the birds and the flowers ?" "Yes, God made everything in the world." "Well, then, Grandpa, who made God?" queried the boy. That was a poser for the Colonel, but after scratching his head, he got out of it thus : "Well, John, nobody made God. He growed."
The second epoch in the life of Rochester started with the removal of the church from the hill to the com- mon. The old building had long been going to rack and ruin and plans had been made to build a new one, when the breaking out of the Revolution halted the work. In 1780, however, a new church was begun, and, as stated, it was located at the common at the lower part of Main street. This whole region was then known as Norway Plains, because of its level char- acter and of the Norway pines which originally covered it. The frame was raised with all the accompaniments then thought fitting for such an occa- sion, the committee buying for the affair thirty-four gallons of rum, eleven pounds of sugar, one barrel of cider, two and one-half bushels of meal, thirty-eight pounds of salt pork, 168 pounds of veal, one bushel of peas, one peck of beans, nine pounds of butter and two bushels of potatoes. That certainly must have been a real celebration. And so far known, not a voice was raised in protest at the expense.
It was appropriate that this change should be made at this time. The old meeting-house on the hill had been associated with the history of Rochester as a royal township. Now the Revolution had done away with
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the old order and the meeting-house on the hill in its tumble-down condition was an emblem of decaying despotism. The erection of the new meeting-house transferred the seat of government, of religion, of fashion and of trade from the hill to Norway Plains and a new Rochester arose in place of the old.
Lack of time forbids any account of the part played by Rochester in the revolution, further than to state that she did her share, as she has in every crisis in the country's history. The history of Rochester gives the lists of names of men who fought for liberty at that time. A paper passed among the citizens, pledging them to do the utmost in their power to oppose the British fleets and armies, was signed by 198 men, 22 "did not choose to sign," being members of the society of Friends, and 22 others refused to sign. So the com- mittee on public safety had a complete line-up to guide them.
Two important events occurred at the end of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth cen- turies. Rochester originally covered a great deal of territory and, as it became settled more or less in dif- ferent sections, differences of interest arose. This resulted in the incorporation of Farmington, which had been known as the North West parish, as a separate town December first, 1798, and that of Milton, previously known as the North East parish, June 11, 1802.
The next real epoch in the history of Rochester came with the introduction of manufacturing. Certain natural advantages predestined Rochester to promin- ence in manufactures, although in the beginning, of course, agriculture was the chief occupation of all the
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settlers in every town. The clay in the soil, especially in and around Gonic, was an ideal material for brick- making, for instance, and the making of brick was one of the town's earliest efforts in the manufacturing line. In fact, the original name of Gonic was the Indian word, Squamanagonic, whose full significance was "The water of the clay place hill." Just when brick were first made there it is impossible to state, but it is known that two yards were operated prior to 1790, one near Walker's bridge and the other near Gonic bridge. From that day to this bricks have been made and shipped from these and other yards. "Gonic may be a small village," said one loyal son many years ago, "but there are parts of Gonic scrattered all over this country from Maine to California and from Can- ada to the Gulf."
The water powers on the Cocheco and Salmon Falls rivers also suggested manufacturing to the settlers at an early date. In fact, we have already seen that the first settler leased of the proprietors the mill privilege at Gonic for ten years. Grist mills were naturally the first use made of these water powers but woolen manu- facturing soon followed. The first attempts in this line were made as long ago as 1788, when Jabez Dame and Colonel John McDuffee established a fulling mill on the site of the present "upper mill" on North Main street. The real beginning of the modern type of woolen man- ufacturing in Rochester was the introduction of a carding machine by Eliphalet Horne in 1811. His shop was near where the mill of the Old Colony Woolen Mills Co. now stands. Later on the Norway Plains Co. manufactured a fine grade of blankets at these mills for many years and some are still living here who worked in them.
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N. V. Whitehouse was the pioneer manufacturer of Gonie, beginning with grist mills and lumber mills and later establishing wool carding and cloth dressing. This business, which has become so important a part of Rochester's industries, dates from about 1838. Mr. Whitehouse also organized the Cocheco Woolen Manu- facturing Co., in connection with John Hall and Samuel B. Rindge, in 1863, and was its first president. This fine manufactory at East Rochester has been a main- stay of the whole town from that day to this.
The beginning of what may be called shoe manu- facturing in Rochester was early in the year 1843, when Richard Hayes of Natick, Mass., started a small factory here, continuing the business about five years. There was then a succession of small factories of this sort, which cannot be enumerated here. It was in 1858 that the firm of E. G. and E. Wallace was formed for the making of leather. When, at the beginning of the civil war, the market for leather failed, they conceived the idea of making it up into boots themselves, and thus arose the manufacturing industry of E. G. and E. Wal- lace, which was destined for so many years to spread the name of Rochester far and wide in the manufactur- ing and business world, and to become the main reliance of hundreds of our people for occupation and subsist- ence. The tannery was finally discontinued but the shoe manufacturing is still going on, under the same name today, although owned by entirely new people now.
Other shoe factories were encouraged to come to town by the public spirit of the townsfolk and their generosity. Not only did they exempt these new con- cerns from taxation but they built several factories.
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Two of the largest and most prosperous shoe manu- factories of the city and the state today were the out- growth of this work of our citizens, and although some of these ventures met with poor success, the results of these two have been sufficient to repay many times over all the work and money put into the original buildings. I refer, of course, to the factories of Mr. Linscott and Mr. Thayer.
Box factories followed, as a natural development, in the wake of the big shoe factories, Charles F. Trask being a pioneer in this line, and our present lumber and box mills are among the biggest and busiest in the whole state or even in New England.
The fourth great epoch in Rochester's development came with the entrance of the railroads to our town. And this was closely allied with the era of manufactur- ing just touched upon. For although manufacturing here had its beginnings before the railroads were known, it was chiefly because of our unparalleled rail- road facilities that it grew and flourished and made Rochester into a manufacturing town. The railroads also were directly responsible for the tremendous growth of Rochester's mercantile business, making this place a center of trade which has few equals in the entire state.
It was therefore a wonderful day for Rochester, that on which the first train ran into this town over the Great Falls and Conway railroad, March 6, 1849.
This was, of course, in the early days of railroading in this country, so that Rochester was, as ever, keeping up with the procession. Stage coaches and post roads had followed the primitive horseback riding and ox carts as methods of transportation, and Rochester was
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an important point on the stage route, from the days of the old Wolfe tavern, owned by Stephen Wentworth, down on Haven's hill, the sign of which, bearing the date of 1770, is before you on this platform. Odiorne's tavern was another famous place in the old days and took on new glory when it was bought by Jonathan T. Dodge, who had worked there and who established several stage lines, having at one time 90 horses and being an expert driver himself. Dodge's hotel, the successor of Odiorne's tavern, survived the discontin- uance of stages, with the advent of the railroads, and remained a noted house of public entertainment up to comparatively recent years, when it was taken down to make room for the present Dodge's block.
But as a railroad center, Rochester was destined to become even more prominent and prosperous than as a terminus for the stage lines. At about the same time that the Great Falls and Conway railroad was char- tered, another line was started, to run from Dover to Alton Bay. Both roads claimed the same right of way in this town and the controversy finally terminated in a riot and a battle on the former site of the brick sta- tion near the Railroad avenue crossing. Rochester citizens participated in this battle royal and Dover and Great Falls partisans took part in large numbers. Several persons were slightly injured in this fight, one had a broken arm and one came near losing his life. The riot act had to be read finally by a constable to quell the disturbance. Later the matter was arbitrated but there was such feeling between Dover and Great Falls that for a long time it was not safe for a resi- dent of one place to visit the other.
After the railroads were completed, the rivalry con- tinued, and many in this audience can doubtless
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remember the days before the present union station was built, when the Conway train would come into the wooden station a little east of the present depot, and the Dover train would arrive at the brick station, located as previously stated. Passengers often had to change cars here, from one road to the other, as they do now, and whichever train got in first usually pulled out just as soon as possible, before the arrival of the other train, so as to make the passengers on the rival train stop over in Rochester, often for the night. Thus was furnished one of the early illustrations of the fact that unrestrained competition is not always to the ad- vantage of the public.
The first regular train over the Portland and Roch- ester railroad was run July 31, 1871, and regular trains were begun over the Nashua and Rochester November 24, 1874. These two roads made a through line from Portland to New York and the building of them was fostered by some of Rochester's most long-headed and sagacious business men, who had visions of great things to result for the benefit of Rochester. If they have been only partially realized, it was no fault of these shrewd individuals, for the possibilities were certainly there and may yet be more fully developed.
One more notable dividing line in the growth and development of Rochester was drawn in 1868, with the building of McDuffee block and the Methodist church. These two things wrought a great transformation in the appearance of the business center of the town. Simon Chase had put up a brick store in 1825, on the lot where now stands the Fair store. It was the second brick building in Rochester and was a landmark until 1878, when it was destroyed by fire. Dominicus Han-
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son had erected a wonderful store in 1837, with a brick curving front and the largest panes of glass of any in the county, where the Ainslie drug store now is. And the Cole building, now the Colonial theatre, was like- wise a brick structure. But the other stores of the town were small wooden buildings. McDuffee block was the first of Rochester's real blocks and was the forerunner of the present handsome business section, which is unsurpassed in appearance by that of any city in New Hampshire. The erection of the Methodist church, too, was a great event, transforming that side of Main street, and from every standpoint was worthy of the solemn ceremonies which accompanied the lay- ing of the corner stone, performed by the Grand Masonic Lodge of New Hampshire, with an address by the Governor of the State.
Lack of space prevents reference to the other religious denominations of Rochester and their houses of worship, important part of the town's history though it is. Two Friends' meeting-houses were built in the very early days of the town. True Memorial Baptist church has just celebrated its 50th anniver- sary. The Methodist church at East Rochester is preparing to observe a similar occasion. St. Mary's Catholic church first celebrated mass December 25, 1868. Holy Rosary church was dedicated in 1883. And the Advent, Unitarian and Episcopal churches of Rochester and the several churches of East Rochester and Gonic, all have had a prominent place in the life of the community.
It is also much to be regretted that it is impossible to go into particulars more concerning the town's mercantile development. A few of the pioneers have
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been referred to. The careers of the Feineman Broth- ers, S. H. and Frederick, who came here from the old world and started in business with practically no capital almost 75 years ago, later founding the clothing firm which is today one of the biggest in New Hamp- shire, are worth recounting. So is that of Isadore Salinger, pioneer dry goods man, who likewise landed in America without a dollar and built up a tremendous business, later bringing over two brothers to have similarly successful careers. And there are many more whom it is impossible even to mention.
The interesting story of the beginning and develop- ment of banking in Rochester must likewise be omitted. John McDuffee not only started the town's first bank back in 1834, but he was one of New England's pioneer business men. His was the frontier bank and the story of his adventures and those of his son, who was asso- ciated with him, in the days before time locks and other safeguards, would by itself furnish abundant material for a historical address. He also played a large part in the bringing of the railroads to Rochester and the establishment of manufacturing here.
The last era in Rochester's history began, of course, with the adoption of the city charter and the inaugura- tion of the city government in January, 1892. Colonel Charles S. Whitehouse, son of N. V. Whitehouse, was largely responsible for the drawing up of the charter and its passage by the legislature and adoption by the voters of Rochester, and he was the first mayor. He was a most public spirited citizen and held many political offices of honor and importance.
One more event which merits passing notice was the erection of the Hayes block in the 70's, by Captain A.
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W. Hayes, the father of the great Rochester fair, whose remarkable record has been often published and is unique among such undertakings in New England. In the third story of this fine building was made a public hall, with the first provision for the genuine gallery gods, and a real stage and scenery. It is only very recently that this hall has been done away with. The memory of its old drop curtain, with a border of advertisements of merchants around the central pic- ture, is still fresh. In the course of time so many of these business men either died or retired (Of course none of them failed in this live town) that the curtain looked like a business men's cemetery. The stage was small and the dressing room accommodations almost nil, but despite all this some of the country's foremost actors and musicians have appeared before its foot- lights. Such names, for instance, as Margaret Mather, Sol. Smith Russell, Edward Harrigan, Jack Mason and his wife, Marion Manola, in one of the most charming comedies ever produced on the American stage, Madame Janaushek, the great Shakesperian trage- dienne, the Gilbert Opera Co. in the Mikado, in the days when Gilbert and Sullivan were in their prime, and another Sullivan, the great John L., who though somewhat shy of dramatic talent, certainly did have some name as a pugilist. For musicians, Camilla Urso, the world renowned violinist, and Walter Emerson, the great cornetist, may be placed in the list. And among the orators, Robert G. Ingersoll had perhaps as wide a reputation as any. Yes, indeed, Hayes opera house, now no more, cannot be omitted in any story of the drama in New Hampshire.
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