USA > New Hampshire > Hillsborough County > Peterborough > Historical sketches of Peterborough, New Hampshire : portraying events and data contributing to the history of the town > Part 38
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tion of it whatever. Spires, towers, bells, chapels, windows, monuments, decorations-all mark time through the 800 years that have passed over it. Yet it stands today one of the finest examples in Europe of Norman cathedral building, and its glorious western front is without a peer.
For something more than four cen- turies the monastery added steadily to its wealth and influence. Under the Norman abbots who were really feudal lords the town became a pros- perous agricultural community. In the early part of the 13th century, Henry III, who was distinguished for his extravagant church-building, twice visited Peterborough with his queen and young Prince Edward, and all his retinue. The Peterburgh book tells of Cardinal Wolsey's visit also to the town in 1528, where he kept his Easter. It says "upon Palm- Sunday he carried his Palm, going with the monks in procession, and the Thursday following he kept his Maundy, washing and kissing the feet of fifty-nine poor people, and having dried them, he gave to every one of them 12d and three Ells of Canvass for a shirt, he gave also to each of them a pair of shoes, and a portion of red herrings."
In 1541, the rule of the abbots came to an end, and the abbey church became a cathedral. For Henry VIII refused to recognize the Pope as the head of the Church, and declared him- self Defender of the Faith. Then followed wanton destruction of monas- tic buildings and abbey churches, and confiscation of their wealth, lands, and treasures. Among the few that were spared was Peterborough out of re- spect to Catherine of Aragon, Henry's first wife, whose burial place is in the north aisle. The story is told that one of his courtiers suggested to him shortly after the interment that he built a monument for her as became his greatness, and he replied that he would rear for her one of the goodliest monuments in Christendom. And truly he did so when he spared the cathedral. For an hundred years more the glory of Peterburgh re- mained undimmed.
The next record of importance is the burial of Mary Queen of Scots in 1587. Gunton, with his fondness for detail, gives a graphic account of the execu- tion, the torch-light procession from Fotheringay Castle to the Cathedral,
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the funeral ceremonies, and the feast at the Bishop's palace. He says, "Thus died Mary the unfortunate Queen of Scots (a woman for her parts, fit to be a Queen) in the six and fortieth year of her age, and the eight- eenth of her continuance in England, in a fair possibility of spinning the thread of her life to a greater length, had fate been as propitious to her as nature." The body of this ill-fated queen, however, was later removed to Westminster Abbey by order of her son, King James I.
In Cromwell's time in the 17th century when some of his horsemen marched through the town in their puritanical fury they broke open the doors of the Cathedral, demolished the altars, and turned the place into a stable. Near the close of the Peter- burgh book, Dean Patrick gives an account of the raid some eight pages in length, under the title of "A Short and True Narrative of the Rifling and Defacing the Cathedral Church of Peterburgh in 1643."
During Elizabeth's reign, the 39 articles of the English creed were formulated, as they stand for the Church of England today. And Peterborough was one of the first places to establish all the conventions of church ceremony. Regular serv- ices are held in the cathedral four times on Sunday, and twice on week- days. The curfew bell is still rung every night for five minutes at ten minutes before eight in the winter, and at ten minutes before nine in the summer. This is said to be the only cathedral where the old and correct order of processions is observed both before and after service.
The monks were our first bookmak- ers, and our first historians. It was in the monasteries of Canterbury and Peterburgh that the old Anglo-Saxon chronicle was written, an authentic record of events down to 1154. The Benedictines were distinguished for their interest in learning, and for their personal literary labors. This man- tle seems to have fallen upon all their descendants. The Peterborough book contains a catalogue of all the manu- scripts, books, and chronicles belong- ing to the monastery.
In brief these are the distinguish- ing historical features of the Burgh of St. Peter. But all the while the common people have been living the today and tomorrow of human exist-
ence with its joy and sorrow. That they were law-abiding citizens through the early centuries goes without say- ing, for most of their rights and privi- leges came under the law of the land, and were granted and denied by the king and the church. Hunting in the forests, cutting down the trees, and using public pasturage-all were de- pendent upon charters. Even so were the fairs and market-days which were held for the sale and exchange of live-stock and agricultural prod- ucts. Very explicit, too, are these ancient Latin documents, as will ap- pear by reviewing the valuable book so often quoted,
For instance:
1. K. William Rufus His Charter for the Tenth of His Huntings inNorth- amptonshire. (1087-1100).
2. King Richard 'I His Charter for a Fair To Be Holden Eight Days in Peterburgh. (1189-1199). This is called St. Peter's Fair, and is still held in the city.
3. King John His Charter Concern- ing the Deforestation of Nassa- burgh. (1199-1216.)
4. King Henry VI His Charter for a Fair to be holden in Peterburgh- For Three Days, Sept. 20, 21, 22 commonly called Briggs-Fair. (1422-1461.)
This now occurs in October, and is still the principal fair, known as the annual horse and cattle show. It is held in the meadows just as of old, and near the old town bridge across the river Nene, the wooden bridge, however, be- ing replaced by a modern iron structure.
The ancient custom of proclaiming fairs with a good deal of ceremony still obtains. On the Tuesday before the first Fairday the Mayor and Cor- poration start in procession from Guildhall. First in the Market- place, then on the bridge, and finally in the Fair meadow, the town-crier reads a proclamation. One clause of which is that "all Persons are re- quired to behave themselves Soberly and Civilly and to pay their respective dues and demands according to the law of the Realm and the right of the Corporation of the City and Borough of Peterborough the owners of the aforesaid Fair" "God Save the King." Afterwards they adjourn to the Crown Hotel, and the Mayor enter- tains all who took part with cham-
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pagne and sausages. It is probably safe to say that the procession does not lack participants.
Another charter of interest is that of King Edward I (1272-1307) for a Thursday Market. The popular mar- ket days at present are Wednesday and Saturday, but Market Place is no longer sufficient. The old town hall, still stands to be sure, a curious build- ing, supported on arches, and bearing the date 1671. It is now used as a meeting place for the Peterborough Town and County Councils, and the open space beneath serves as a butter market.
Curious customs seem to have ling- ered longer in Peterborough than in many other parts of England. It was somewhat cut off from the sur- rounding country by the Fens, and families remained there for genera- tions. The four toll bars marking the ยท confines of the town were preserved until late into the 19th century, and the fees exacted. The custom of lighting a beacon at night for the benefit of travellers over the marshes was preserved long after the need was past. Sedan chairs were used for some time after railways were es- tablished, and elderly ladies continued to be conveyed in them to church and to parties as long as there were any chairmen to be employed.
The town beadle in a long robe, with mace and cocked hat, was an impor- tant personage as late as 1833. His chief duty was to "fidget" the tramps out of town. Up to about thirty years ago, the last nightwatchman of the old school, until he was totally in- capable, occupied his box in the Minster precincts, making his rounds regularly and calling out the hours and the state of the weather.
Among the country-folk are still rife many of the superstitions of "the homestead in the meadows." Perhaps it is the atmosphere of the Fens, the will-o-the-wisp, and the whip-poor-wills. One of them rela- tive to the ancient parish church of St. John's, built in 1407 and still in constant use, is of more than passing interest. This church has a peal of eight bells. Until recently the Head verger of the Cathedral had charge of the clocks in both places. And whether or not the bells should peal together gave rise to the following significant lines, frequently heard to- day:
"When the clock of the Abbey strikes three minutes fast,
There will be a gay wedding before the month's past;
When the clock of the Abbey strikes three minutes slow,
The river's bright waters will soon overflow;
When the Church Clock and Abbey Clock strike both together,
There will soon be a death or a change of the weather."
A certain respect beyond super- stitution makes for the survival of what in many an American commun- ity would be deemed "all nonsense." In 1711 a Mr. Towers left 10 pounds to be laid out in land, and the rent to be given to the poor in candles. It is intended doubtless for a gift on Candlemas Day. For years the occu- pants of almshouses have been the recipients.
Since 1781, the 15th of March is called Wyldbore's Day, and on this day the bells of St. John are rung merrily. A former resident, Mathew Wyldbore, M. P. for Peterborough, was one day walking on the border of the Fens when suddenly a dense fog came on. He lost his way, and was afraid every moment of falling into a cross drain or fen dyke. All at once the bells of St. John began to ring, and guided by the sound he re- turned in safety to the city. When he died he left 5 pounds to be paid annually to the minister of the parish, and to be given by him part in money and part in entertainment, as he should think best, to the ringers of St. John's on condition that they should ring "one peal or more" of the parish bells on that day. He left also an annual payment of 1 pound, 1 shilling to the minister of the church for preaching an annual sermon, and 10 shillings for the poor as an allow- ance for bread. A certain estate is still held liable for these payments. Mr. Wyldbore was buried in Peter- borough church, and there is a mar- ble monument to his memory.
Older than these customs is the annual distribution on the 14th of December of what is known as Bishop White's charity. He died in 1698, and left 10 pounds to be divided yearly among twenty elderly men and women over sixty years of age who can re- peat correctly without a single mis- take the Lord's Prayer, the Ten Commandments, and the Apostle's
-
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Creed. This is an interesting annual event, and for weeks before friendly visitors assist in coaching old people in charitable institutions and else- where who are trying to earn their ten shillings.
To attempt any enumeration of Peterborough's illustrious characters is impossible within the limits of this paper. But one certainly deserves passing recognition. That is Charles Mordaunt, Earl of Peterborough, and contemporary with the Duke of Marlborough, who is unquestionably the most extraordinary character of that age. His life closing in 1735 covered 75 years of the most exciting periods in English History. His greatest military achievement, and one which shows the intrepid daring of his nature, was the capture of Bar- celona in Spain with barely a handful of men. This was in 1705 during the War of the Spanish Succession, when he was placed by the English Govern- ment in command of an expedition to Spain.
There is a sort of wild fascination about his life, a blending of French impetuosity and English persistency. And while there are various estimates of his greatness, all authorities are agreed in regard to the brilliancy of his intellect and the strange incon- sistency of his political action. Ma- caulay says, "He was a kind friend, a generous enemy, and a thorough gentleman." Indeed, his intimate friendships are conspicuous: Among them, Sir Robert Walpole, Prime Minister under George I; and Dryden, Swift, and Pope, men of letters. He was an electric force wherever he was: conferring with a king, speaking in Parliament, or flying through Europe in search of novelty and excitement. He is said to have seen more kings and postilians than any other man of his time. To quote Macaulay again: "He was, in truth, the last of the knights-errant, "brave to temerity,
liberal to profusion, courteous in all his dealings with enemies, the pro- tector of the oppressed, the adorer of women."
That the modern Fenland city is interested to some extent in historical and scientific matters is evident, for there is a flourishing organization known as "The Peterborough Natural History, Scientific and Archaeological Society." It was founded forty-eight years ago, has a membership of about 500, issues an annual report, publishes historical papers, and supports oc- casional lectures, a library and a museum.
In closing, I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Perkins Bass for the use of valuable books, reports, and pictures which she collected in England herself. I wish especially to call attention to the fascinating and extremely valuable "Peterburgh book, which is really the foundation source of this paper.
NOTE: Gunton's history so fre- quently quoted is a leather-bound volume of 348 pages, 9 x 14 inches, with three full-page engravings of different "prospects" of the "Cathe- dral Church of Peterborough" and one of "The Old Altar-piece, beaten down by the Souldiers in the great Rebellion."
It is one of the treasured posses- sions of the local society and as in- scribed was "Purchased of Mr. Badg- er-Secretary of the Museum of Peterborough, Northamptonshire, England, for the Peterborough, New Hampshire, Historical Society by Clara F. Bass, 1912.'
Its leather covers dating back in service for two hundred thirty-two years are still beautiful with their rose and crown impressions and conven- tional lines.
It is an excellent specimen of 17th century English book-making with its wide-margined pages, its reference columns, and its Old English type.
[Published in The Peterborough TRANSCRIPT, October 19, 1933.]
TRIBUTE TO THE MEMORY OF MRS. CLARA FOSTER BASS At The Historical Building, September 11, 1933
MRS. CLARA FOSTER BASS
Friends, relatives, and many who had only a bare acquaintance with the woman, gathered at the Historical building Monday afternoon to pay their respects to Mrs. Clara Foster Bass, one of Peterborough's most generous benefactors and donor of the Historical building, who died in Tuc- son, Ariz., March 9. The assembly room was nearly filled with over 100 persons who had come to witness the impressive service which was pre- sided over by Dr. Jeffrey R. Brackett, first vice-president of the Peterbor- ough Historical Society. Dr. Brac- kett gave a detailed account of Mrs.
Bass' life and the history of her ancestors who were early settlers here. Mrs. Jennie H. Field, for many years one of the most active members of the Historical society and a long-time friend of Mrs. Bass, also read an eulogy of the prominent woman who devoted so much of her life to the betterment of the community, and Mrs. George E. Clement, niece of Mrs. Bass, read a letter from Mrs. Julia B. Bradt of Boston, over 90 years old and a friend of Mrs. Bass for more than 70 years.
Mrs. Edward MacDowell praised Mrs. Bass in a few informal remarks during which she recalled Mrs. Bass'
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interest in the "Peterborough Pag- eant." Mrs. MacDowell said that Mrs. Bass gave liberally of her sym- pathy, interest and means in the production of this pageant and also in helping the colony through several of its critical periods. Mrs. MacDowell said that although the world was los- ing sight of personalities, it was fortu- nate that Peterborough had a woman of Mrs. Bass' stature at a time when personalities meant something. Mrs. MacDowell played on the piano at the close of the exercises the Peterborough hymn, "A. D. 1620," written by her husband.
The service opened with a scripture reading by Rev. Howard G. Parsons, pastor of the Congregational church, which Mrs. Bass attended, and after the tributes by Mrs. Field, Mrs. Clement, Dr. Brackett and Mrs. MacDowell, the service closed with the entire group standing while Mrs. MacDowell played and the group repeated in unison The Lord's Prayer.
A portrait of Mrs. Bass, painted by Edmund C. Tarbell, faced the au- dience, placed on an easel, adjoining which was a huge basket of gladioli, the gift of Mr. and Mrs. Carl F. Kaufmann. The historical rooms of the building were beautifully decor- ated with roses of all kinds from Mrs. Bass' own garden, and other floral offerings were sent by Eben W. Jones.
In his opening remarks, Dr. Brackett said: "This afternoon is the stated time for our annual meeting. We meet, but not for routine business of such a meeting. Your officers will serve until their successors are elected; your executive committee can care for routine matters. We meet for a particular purpose which presses on our hearts and minds-to pay tribute to the memory of Mrs. Perkins Bass (Clara Foster Bass), a leading pro- moter of our society and the generous donor of this notable building. This meeting is not to be funereal in the usual sense of the word. But let us give it all the dignity we can."
Dr. Brackett then presented Rev. Howard G. Parsons who gave the scripture reading.
Dr. Brackett introduced Mrs. Jennie Hadley Field, librarian of the Historical society, who read the fol- lowing tribute to Mrs. Bass:
"It is with many fond memories and grateful appreciation that Peter- borough Historical Society pays trib-
ute today to the life and service of its most devoted member, Mrs. Clara Foster Bass.
"She was among its founders, and there was a consecration in her mem- bership, not easily defined, and far beyond that of ordinary interest in social and civic organizations. It was deeply rooted in an abiding love for Peterborough and its welfare, in sentiment for home-life and ancestry, and in an unusual fondness for history and its preservation.
"There are some present who will recall the first formal September meet- ing of the society on a Monday even- ing just 30 years ago, although it had been organized early in the year preceding. To be sure, there were but eight members present; two of whom came bearing gifts: a package of old documents of local interest, and a col- lection of songs and poems. At this time, Mrs. Bass spoke enthusiastically of the society's possible service in collecting and preserving papers, heirlooms, and antiques of all sorts. In her enthusiasm for things, there was always a quiet conviction which no one ever questioned; for it was genuine and the result of deliberation. From this meeting forward through the years, her interest in this type of service has been a constant inspira- tion.
"The possessions and the member- ship of the society had increased in a brief four years to such an extent that rooms seemed desirable. And in this emergency with characteristic gen- erosity, Mrs. Bass gave freely of her- self and her means, furnishing and maintaining for the period of 12 years preceding the use of the Historical Building, two rooms in the Savings Bank block. The September meet- ings, however, were usually held at her home at Orchard Hill, and always looked forward to with anticipation. For on these occasions were presented addresses and historical papers, fre- quently by members or by distinguish- ed speakers and writers from abroad, many of whom were her personal friends.
"Her ideals and her plans for the development and activity of the so- ciety were clearly defined in her own mind, and carefully worked out long in advance of their presentation to others. Every summer on her return, there was always something in store: personal gifts, additional papers, pic-
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tures, books, plans for the September meetings, the inauguration of some new custom, and in 1913 the splendid offer of a new building as a permanent home. This year is memorable also for the publication in the name of the society of 'Peterborough in the Rev- olution' by Jonathan Smith, our most prolific writer, and to whom local history is forever indebted. It is our most ambitious publication, and in passing it is but just to add that without the financial interest of Mrs. Bass it would hardly have been a realization.
"Two years later on the 23rd of August occurred the dedication of the General James Miller tablet, marking his birthplace in the easterly part of the town. This had been long talked of as a society project, and was one which Mrs. Bass made possible, and thoroughly enjoyed. At the Sep- tember meeting of this year, which was held at her home, was definitely announced the present location of the Historical Building, and outline sketches were presented. Pleasant memories of the occasion will linger long. The subject of the address was 'New England One Hundred Years Ago,' by Prof. Samuel Eliot Morison. As the conversation became general contrasts were cited: the past with its limitations, the present with its advantages, and the future with its possible opportunities for community service in a permanent historical home.
"Passing rapidly over the construc- tion period which was eventful in many ways, inasmuch as it was a time of World War thrills, in 1917 on the 10th of September the corner stone was laid. How well we remem- ber her interest in the contents of the copper box, even to the red, white and blue ribbon for tying up the parch- ment roll on which was written the history of the society. And two years later the first meeting in the building was held in what is now called the Peterborough room. In September of 1921, however, everything was in readiness: the beautiful building com- pleted, furnished, equipped for its special uses, and all the property of the society in place. And looking backward over the fruitful years, we marvel at the thought, the care, the attention to smallest details given by Mrs. Bass.
"Her official position has always been chairman of the executive com- mittee, and to her should be ascribed the credit of initiative in many ways: the custom of 'open house' on his- toric days, and lighting the hearth fires at three o'clock in the afternoon; and for the past ten years raising the flag and reading the Declaration of Independence on the morning of the Fourth of July.
"A distinguishing quality of her historical interest was persistence: she was seldom dismayed by diffi- culties, and the objective was always clearly in view. As a result, we have valuable letters and memorials of Catharine Putnam, Dr. Albert Smith, and many others. She knew well old Peterborough in England. And while there she purchased the ancient cathedral book known as 'Gunton's Peterborough,' now safely lodged in the society vault. She collected also original reference material for a Sep- tember paper on the subject. And the beautiful pictures of the cathedral are her gift.
"Among her most valuable collec- tions in recent years are two volumes of 'Documents and Letters of the Governors of the State of New Hamp- shire.' These are all original, some dating back even to the Colonial period as early as 1697. We might continue, for everywhere in the building, especially in the society room and in the library, are evidences of her liberal culture and historical interest.
"In her last active summer, that of 1931, she completed the purchase of the Samuel Eliot Morison volumes which are numbered among our pre- sent library additions. In the past she had read and re-read the original Dunbar Diary, and its publication as a reproduction was her last and most recent historical interest. In this summer she reviewed critically with the writer the biographical man- uscript and other details already prepared, and the completion of the volume would be indeed a fitting memorial.
"But any tribute, however appre- ciative, is inadequate without men- tion of additional organizations in whose welfare she was deeply interest- ed, and in whose projects she was thoroughly altruistic. We refer to the local society of Arts and Crafts in whose beginnings she was of great
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assistance to Miss Mary Morison, and whose fortunes she followed closely for many years, both as a patron and as a financial contributor. Next, to The Progressive Club, where- in she was especially helpful in the larger interests of New Hampshire benefits, but always with the under- standing that credit should go to the local club. And finally to the Mac- Dowell Association with whose high purpose and outstanding service to art and creative genius she was ever sympathetic and responsive in so many untold ways.
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