USA > New Hampshire > Merrimack County > Concord > History of Concord, New Hampshire, from the original grant in seventeen hundred and twenty-five to the opening of the twentieth century, Volume II > Part 18
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It was quite natural that after the Londonderry and the Chester turnpike roads were completed, there should be, as there were, stages on each. On the more easterly route by way of Allenstown, Chester, and Atkinson, Thomas Pearson, who in ordinary speech was called "Tom Parsons," held the reins for many years, and kept a relay of horses at Anderson's in Candia, where hot rum sling was the favorite tipple. About 1822 this tavern was burned, with Tom's best four white horses, reserved for the run into Concord, and, like a good honest man, he wept bitterly at the painful fate of his favorite team. He was a driver to whom mothers entrusted children going down to visit Boston cousinry.
Nathaniel Walker was a favorite coachman on the line by way of Londonderry.
In the New Hampshire Statesman of April 30, 1859, is a communi- cation signed " Sener " (ex-Governor David L. Morril), in which the writer says he rode from Reed's Ferry to Concord in August, 1805, in a crazy old thing called a coach, driven by Joseph Wheat, and, staying in Concord over night, went on to Hanover by the same con- veyance. In 1807 Simon Harris, a mail-carrier from Salisbury to Plymouth, gave notice that he had taken the route from Concord to Newbury, Vt. In October, 1808, a stage between Portsmouth and Concord was to make two round trips a week, be eight hours on the road, and connect at Concord with the Hanover stages. In Decem- ber, 1810, citizens of the region around Newbury, Vt., gave notice in Concord that a weekly line of stages was "erected to run from Quebec to Boston," probably by use of established stage lines this side of Newbury. The War of 1812 was near; in 1814 it became difficult to carry heavy mails, so books and pamphlets, except maga- zines, were excluded by order of the government. There was a stage from Concord to Amherst in 1813.
Between 1815 and 1820 a new semi-weekly line to Portsmouthı,
12
846
HISTORY OF CONCORD.
via Deerfield Parade, was put on ; the service to Hanover, and that to Boston via the Londonderry turnpike, were made tri-weekly, as was that of the rival Chester turnpike line which carried the mail. Each Boston stage then came up on Mondays, Wednesdays, and 'Fridays. There appears to have been double service on the Londonderry line, which started from 9 Elm street, one coach being called the Burling- ton, the other the Hanover line. The stage via Chester started from 45 Ann street. For a few days in July, 1820, competition was sharp and the fare one dollar. In that year Lyman Hawley and others put on a new tri-weekly line from Concord to Haverhill, N. H., via the Grafton turnpike, and Samuel Tallant, a semi-weekly line to Plymouth via Canterbury and New Hampton. Hawley was a famous driver, and in 1825 held the lines over the six white horses which brought General Lafayette into Concord.
In 1822 the "expedition mail stage from Boston to Stanstead " was driven three round trips a week, with Peter Smart at the helm between Boston and Plymouth, via the Londonderry turnpike and Concord, leaving Boston at three a. m., and arriving at Plymouth (one hundred and two miles) at nine p. m.1 This stage is remembered by a few living witnesses. Speaking of Peter Smart, the New Hampshire Statesman of January 3, 1857, says : " He performed labor at one time that would have broken down three common men, viz .: driving a stage team from Plymouth to Boston and back again day after day and night after night." In 1826 there was a semi-weekly stage hence to Thornton. Stagemen thrived in the decade which ended with 1830. Trusting to newspaper advertisements, it seems safe to say that at its close Concord had six stage lines to Boston, occupying different routes and providing four coaches each way three days in the week, three each way on other days, also daily coaches to Hano- ver and to Royalton, Vt., two tri-weekly lines to Portsmouth, and tri-weekly lines to Conway, Claremont, Charlestown (Albany line), Haverhill, Bradford, Vt., and Plymouth. In 1827 the Plymouth line gained a connection with Franconia and Waterford, Vt., via the Fran- conia notch. In 1830 there was a stage hence to Haverhill, perhaps an opposition to the regular line, which departed at four o'clock on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings. This Sunday departure was shortly cancelled. There was in 1824 a tri-weekly line to Salem, Mass., which was afterward run to Boston via Salem, the time for the .trip being thirteen hours.
Probably no English coach was ever in use on a New Hampshire stage line. Coaches were built in Salem, Mass., as early as 1794. One such was driven between Concord and Dover in 1839. It had
1 Advertisement in New Hampshire Patriot, October 28, 1822.
847
CANALS, STAGE LINES, AND TAVERNS.
a door on one side only, and was known to drivers as the " hen-coop." The Concord coach came into general use after 1828. It had seats for nine inside and six outside passengers, including the driver. It was roomy and grand, with rhythm in the roll and play of its wheels. Honest hands made it of wood slowly grown, and the toughest iron of the forge, so it held together through all stress and strain, and bore a good name to every quarter of the globe.
The period from 1831 to 1842, in which latter year the Concord Railroad was opened, was that of high tide in stage travel. There was a line hence to Pittsfield, Barnstead, and Dover in 1833, also one to Wolfeborough, and one to Peterborough. The last was in 1834 a tri-weekly line to Brattleboro, Vt. The Boston & Lowell Railroad was opened in 1835, and some of the Concord and Boston stages at once made Lowell their southern terminus; others did not. There was in 1836 a line via Pembroke, Chester, Hampstead, and Haverhill, Mass., to a connection with the Haverhill & Andover Railroad (then building, since grown into the Boston & Maine). In 1837 there were still stage lines through to Boston via London- derry and Essex turnpikes. The Mammoth road, completed in 1834, through Hooksett, Londonderry, Windham, Pelham, and Dracut, Mass., became the best stage route from Concord to Lowell. Joseph P. Stickney, of Concord, whose stable yard was where is now Stickney's north building, had stages on that road in 1834. So did William Walker, Jr., in 1836-'37. Robert Parker Kimball, noted for his wide white collar and cuffs, gentle manners and soft voice, whirled a coach over this road in its early days. Gilman Palmer and Joel Conkey, whose names are told in stagemen's stories, drove to Lowell via Amoskeag in 1838. In 1837 J. P. Stickney was send- ing two daily stages to Nashua, where they connected with the steamboat to Lowell. Ira Foster, who was something of an Oliver Cromwell on the road, had a coach of his own on the same route. The railroad was opened to Nashua in 1838, but stages continued to run between Concord and Lowell. In 1839 William Walker, Jr., and Nathaniel White had a tri-weekly line from Lowell to Meredith Village, through in one day. In 1840 George W. Sherburne had a tri-weekly line from Nashua to Meredith Bridge. In 1841 John P. Gass, N. S. Chandler, and others had stages from Nashua to Royal- ton. There were at this time frequent departures hence for Nashua, namely, at four, half-past six, and ten o'clock a. m. There was a daily stage hence to Lowell, via the Mammoth road, as recently as 1841, and that same year Elias Pinkham was driving a coach bound to Nashua out of the court-yard under the great elms of the Wash- ington tavern at the North end. During some of the summers of this
848
HISTORY OF CONCORD.
period the Portsmouth and Exeter stages went through to Hampton Beach, then the favorite watering-place of Concord people.
Harrison B. Marden, of Plymouth, himself a stageman for fifty years, has kindly furnished from memory, which may not be infal- lible, the following table of coaches out of Concord in 1839 :
CONCORD STAGES IN 1839.
STABLED AT.
ROUTE.
TRIPS.
OWNERS.
DRIVERS.
Eagle.
Dover via Pittsfield and Barnstead.
Tri-weekly.
Jas. F. Langdon.
H. B. Marden.
2 Col'mbian. Portsmouth via Ep-
som and Northw'd.
Tri-weekly.
C. C. Jackson.
C. C. Jackson.
3 Phenix.
Portsmouth via Al- lenstown and Deer- field.
Tri-weekly.
S. B. Marden.
S. B. Marden.
4 Phenix.
Haverhill, Mass., via Chester.
Tri-weekly.
Wm. Sawyer.
Wm. Sawyer.
5 1 coach at Eagle. 1 at Phi'nix.
Lowell via Mam- motlı Road.
Daily.
Geo. Clough. Peter Dudley.
Geo. Clough. Peter Dudiey.
6
1 coach at Eagle. 1 at Ph'nix.
Nashua.
Daily.
Wm. Walker.
Wm. Walker. Nathan'l White. Nathaniel White.
7 Stickney's own st' ble.
Nashua.
Daily.
J. P. Stickney.
Samuel Gale. Joel Conkey.
8 American. Nashua.
John P. Gass. N. S. Chandler.
Gilman Palmer.
9 Eagle.
Nashua.
Daily.
Ira Foster.
Ira Foster.
10 Col'mbian. Keene.
Tri-weekly.
Richard Cilley or Geo. Ward.
Richard Cilley or Rob't N. Corning.
11 American.
Claremont.
Daily.
Lewis and Silas Dutton.
Lewis and Silas Dutton.
12 Phenix.
Hanover via Bos- cawen, Salisbury, and Enfield.
Daily.
Ephraim Hutch- Elbridge G. Car- ins and others.
ter, Porter K. Philbrick.
13 American.
Hanover.
Tri-weekly.
Jolın P. Gass. N. S. Chandler.
Horace Langley.
14 1 coach at Eagle; 1 at Ph'nix. -
Hanover via New London.
Daily.
Henry George and others.
Henry and Jas. George.
15 American.
Haverhill via Ca- Tri-weekly. naan.
Robert Morse and others.
Henry Shattuck.
16 1 coach at Ameri - can; 1 at Eagle.
Haverhill via Bris- tol and Rumney.
Daily.
Robert Morse and others.
Jas. F. Langdon. Jabez W. Burn- ham.
849
CANALS, STAGE LINES, AND TAVERNS.
17 W a shing- ton.
Haverhill via Ply- Daily. mouth.
Robert Morse and others.
Wm. B. French. Willard Graves.
18 Eagle.
Meredith Bridge.
Daily.
Harrison Mes- ser & Co.
Jacob Libbey. T. D. Baker.
19 Eagle.
Gilmanton.
Tri-weekly.
Joseph C. Bean. Joseph C. Bean.
The Concord Railroad (September 6, 1842) caused the withdrawal of the stages to Lowell and Nashua, but there was in 1844 still a daily stage to Manchester, driven by William G. Hoyt (son of a landlord of the South end tavern), at a fifty cent fare. The follow- ing is a correct list of other stages of that year :
Claremont via Newport (Eagle Coffee House), Monday, Wednes- day, and Friday. Peter Dudley, driver.
Claremont and Woodstock, Vt. (American House), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Lewis Dutton, driver.
Conway (Eagle Coffee House), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Jacob Libbey, driver. (Coach and driver changed at Meredith Bridge.)
Deering (American House), weekly. Franklin Wallace, driver.
Dover (American House), tri-weekly. Charles Robbins, driver.
Dunbarton (American House), tri-weekly. N. S. Chandler, owner.
Franconia (Eagle Coffee House), tri-weekly. Willis Hall, driver.
Franklin via Sanbornton (Columbian Hotel), tri-weekly. Peter Smart, driver.
Hanover via Andover (Phenix Hotel), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Frank Thompson, driver.
Hanover and Royalton, Vt., via Andover (American House), Mon- day, Wednesday, and Friday. Horace Langley, driver.
Hanover via New London (Phenix Hotel), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Henry George, driver.
Hanover via Hopkinton and New London (Eagle Coffee House), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Elbridge G. Carter, driver.
Haverhill via Bristol (Eagle Coffee House), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Jabez W. Burnham, driver.
Haverhill via Bristol (American House), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. William B. French, driver.
Haverhill via Salisbury and Andover (American House), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Henry Shattuck, driver.
Haverhill via Plymouth (Phenix Hotel), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Peabody A. Morse, driver.
Haverhill, Mass. (Phenix Hotel), tri-weekly. R. H. Ayer, driver. Keene (Columbian Hotel), tri-weekly. John Brown, driver.
Meredith Village (American House), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Elias Pinkham, driver.
Portsmouth via Exeter (Phenix Hotel), Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Thomas W. Aiken, driver.
850
HISTORY OF CONCORD.
Portsmouth via Epping (Columbian Hotel), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. S. B. Marden, driver.
Wolfeborough (Eagle Coffee House), tri-weekly. Joseph C. Bean, driver.
The Northern (December 28, 1846), the Boston, Concord & Mon- treal (May 22, 1848), and the Concord & Claremont (October 1, 1849) railroads thrust other coaches backward into the country, and the heyday of the business, so far as Concord was concerned, was over; but as late as 1850 there were tri-weekly stages hence to Portsmouth via Durham (Richard Cilley); to Portsmouth via Epping (Thomas W. Aiken) ; to Dover (W. Libbey) ; to Gilmanton (Cyrus Corning) ; to Dunbarton (Isaac Clement) ; and a daily to Pittsfield, owned and driven by True Garland. The latter, continued until 1868, was the last four-horse stage-coach to keep the road out of Concord ; and Charles Sanborn, who succeeded Garland, as Holt Drake preceded him, was the last of the old drivers to swing a whip with a twelve-foot lash.
There was (1842-'46) a weekly three-horse parcel and money express which left Concord at eight a. m., and reached Montreal in fifty hours, by way of New London, Hanover, Montpelier, Burlington, and St. John, driven sometimes by William Walker, Jr., Nathaniel White, or George Herrick. This grew into the daily United States and Canada express. There was another weekly two-horse express to Stanstead.
For several years prior to 1849 the Concord post-office was in a small wooden building which stood on the west side of North Main street, about four rods south of the junction with Centre. This was the final point of departure for mail coaches, and here, after the daily arrival of the morning train from Boston, they assembled, a street full, to await the outcome of the process going on within the humble building, called "sorting the mail," the office being a distributing one. Here in the street was a daily scene. The stage horses had taken their preliminary trot. Brought around from their stable by the chief hostler, a personage like in importance to a cub pilot on a western river, they had swept in a true circle before the tavern sign post, passed the survey of the driver, taken up passengers at the rail- way station and all about town, and were fretting to be away. Each alert driver was impatient to fasten his stout fingers on the mail pouches of his line, because waiting was dreary, and there was natu- ral longing to lead the procession up the broad street, free of a rival's dust. All the loungers of the neighborhood gathered. A door opened with a thump, and a clerk emerged dragging heavy mail sacks which he flung on the front platform. There was a brisk hustle ; then,-
851
CANALS, STAGE LINES, AND TAVERNS.
"Smack went the whip, round went the wheels- Were never folks so glad."
People peered out at all the windows to see who was first to go. It might be Willis Hall, with a basket of small stones on the foot- board to fling at an unruly or sluggish leader, or Jacob Libbey, whose kind heart and big, freckled hands guided a team into the Sanbornton Bay country. Whoever it might be one day, it would probably be another the next.
If there was not the foreign coach, neither was there the tradi- tional English coachman, built up on pots of "'arf an' 'arf." Such as he would have cut no figure in a race with Henry George, driving all the way from Concord to Burlington to prove to the authorities that this, rather than any other, was the route for the fortnightly mail between London and Canada.
There was an annual procession in our streets that attracted still more attention. This was the winter afternoon parade of sleigh stages, filled with gay passengers, seeing and being seen, which pre- ceded the yearly stagemen's ball, held usually at Grecian, sometimes at Washington, hall. To this social event gathered stage-owners, stage-drivers, and their friends from far and near,-Stanstead, the two Haverhills, all the Merrimack and the upper Connecticut val- leys. Pushee's band was summoned down from Lebanon to rehearse familiar music, and there was at the ball as much merriment and dancing as the hours of one night would permit to a company in rude health and high spirits. Some latitude was permitted in the choice of guests, and the scrutiny of doorkeepers was not too severe.
Along the country side the stageman was regarded as holding a good place among worthies of the time. He could tell to loitering villagers news and gossip from tavern firesides in the larger lower towns. Perhaps Daniel Webster, Jeremiah Mason, Ichabod Bartlett, or George Sullivan had sometime been passengers in his coach, and he had spoken with some familiarity with those great men, or he had exchanged polite salutations with Dudley Leavitt, Professor Edwin D. Sanborn, or the governor of the state. Judges going up to hold court sat beside him, and held the reins while baggage was landed at wayside inns. Perchance he had clinked the social glass with Philip Carrigain, Esquire, and wished him success in his errand at Hanover. On the sightly highest seat of his yellow coach rustic beauties, going home from service or from school, with handsomer faces than those depicted by the skilful hand of the Concord painter on the panels of the coach, perched where the long whiplash made its surprising whirl past their sunbonnets before it shot forward to make its still more surprising crack behind the ears of the leaders on the six-horse
852
HISTORY OF CONCORD.
team. School-boys by the roadside swung their caps to the driver, and echoed his cheery whistle to the horses. The village blacksmith and saddler came to the fore wheel to take his orders when he drew rein. All the countrymen deemed it worth while to be on good terms with him, because he knew about their horses, and from his opinion as to what a likely animal would bring at Concord or Ports- mouth there was no appeal.
It did not require very abundant resources to provide outfit for a stage line. A Concord coach cost five hundred dollars, horses about eighty dollars each, a set of harness for four horses, one hundred dollars. Drivers' wages in 1839, according to the memory of H. B. Marden, were about twenty-five dollars a month. Tact, patience, and endurance were necessary. So was punctuality. Sandeman Marden went over his route to Portsmouth so regularly that people set their clocks when he drove past. Exposure to rude winters on bleak roads was a condition not to be lightly regarded. The mid- winter defenses of a driver were a long, buffalo-skin coat with a girdle at the waist, deep boots, a thick, knit woolen hood drawn closely over his ears and neck, and leggins of the same material and make. What kept his gloved hands from freezing is one of the mysteries of history.
There were other skilled reinsmen driving out of Concord, whom there has been hitherto no occasion to mention in this narrative, such as Lysias Emerson, Harrison G. Clark, Moses E. Gould, John S. Russ, John H. Elliott, Seth Greenleaf, James Prescott, Albert Foster, Washington Simpson, Hiram Plummer, Daniel Green, and " Trimen- dous " Clough, whose real name may possibly have been Daniel.
There were few serious local accidents. A northern stage leaving Stickney's tavern at four a. m., went off a narrow causeway at the foot of Chapel street into the gulf of West's brook. Harrison Mes- ser upset the Meredith coach on Bridge street in July, 1843; Fred P. Hill, the Haverhill stage on the Penacook road in 1846; and the Newport coach turned over in 1848 at the Main-Centre street corner. The writer of this page has lively recollections of an overturn of the Nashua stage on a road with deep ruts in Hooksett, about 1839, when William Walker, Jr., was the officiating Jehu. There was an urgent call for smelling salts and spirits of camphor from ladies who had been on top of the coach, but no bones were broken, and no irre- parable nervous shocks inflicted. Sleigh stages turned over more easily. One driver upset the Hanover stage seven times in one win- ter on Choate hill in Boscawen, and lifted up his voice as often to helpful neighbors to bestir themselves and get him out of difficulty.
When stage-coaches were driven off the road many stagemen found employment on railways.
853
CANALS, STAGE LINES, AND TAVERNS.
During the coaching period some things carried themselves to inarket. Cattle from a thousand hills and flocks of sheep facing southward were a common spectacle on Main street; so were long lines of Vermont horses tethered to guide-ropes which were fastened at both ends to driven wagons. At rare intervals in the autumn, flocks of turkeys went slowly down the way guided by men who car- ried long, pliant switches in their hands. It was a common pastime for school-boys to spend their Saturday half holidays as volunteer aids to drovers in getting cattle and sheep past the side openings and temptations of the street.
All day long in the winter months of good sleighing, up-country teams-pungs they were called-poured through the town, laden with farm products, butter, cheese, dried apples, and the like, stowed below, while round hogs above pointed their stiffened limbs back reproachfully toward the styes whence they had been torn. There was a perch at the back end of these pungs from which the driver, wearing perhaps a buffalo coat and a fox-skin cap, with the tail hang- ing between his shoulders, could manage the horses and watch his belongings. The street being so busy with travel, there was need of many places for the refreshment of man and beast, although some of these travelers, like Mrs. John Gilpin, had frugal minds. Such car- ried food and wanted nothing but shelter, like the first settlers of Concord, who, as their report relates, tarried at the inn of John Barr in Londonderry, refreshed themselves and their horses with their own provisions, and "had nothing of him but Small Beer."
The first public house in Concord was a development of James Osgood's garrison, on the east side of North Main, just south of the junction with Depot street. This refuge from danger became grad- ually and naturally a house for entertainment. Thither were borne the slain in the fight with Indians on the Hopkinton road, August 11, 1746, an indication that its shelter was then a place of common ren- dezvous. Osgood died in 1757, and was succeeded by his widow, who kept tavern there, and afterward where is now Exchange build- ing, until about 1798, and history has given to her firesides a con- vivial as well as colonial reputation. The house which was the first Osgood tavern was burned August 17, 1854. Asa McFarland, in an article entitled " Memorials of Olden Time," printed in the Statesman of February 14, 1845, says he was told by an old citizen that the Prince de Talleyrand was in Concord, a lodger at the Osgood tavern, several days during his exile from France, 1793-'95.
There was a tavern long ago at the corner of North Main and Church streets, kept by Benjamin Hannaford, who dwelt there as
854
HISTORY OF CONCORD.
early as 1777, and owned that or neighboring property in 1790. That he was a good citizen is shown by the fact that in the latter year he was a contributor toward building a court house large enough to hold the great and general court. He was a carpenter as well as a landlord, and owned outlying farming lands. In 1795 he bought real estate at the north corner of North State and Walker streets, kept public house there, and died in 1810.
The earliest South end tavern was that of Samuel Butters, a por- tion of which remains, numbered 131 South Main street. The Con- cord Gazette of September 18, 1810, mentions it as having then been a tavern since 1780. During the years of teaming, boating, and staging, it held a desirable location, and was a thriving inn. It was called usually by the name of its suc- cessive landlords, who were, as nearly as can be ascertained, Samuel Butters, 1780-1811 ; Timothy Butters, 1811-'14; John Carr, 1814-'22; Joshua Butters' Tavern, Sawyer, 1823-'29 ; George Southwick, 1830; William Manley Carter and Carter & Priest, 1831-'42; Leonard Bell, 1843; Daniel N. Hoit, 1844-'45. In its later years it was entitled the Concord Railroad House. It was there that in the decadent days of the old militia the red-coated company of troopers in the Eleventh regiment disbanded. In one of its rooms a meeting was held on February 3, 1795, for the organization of the corporation which built the lower or Pembroke bridge.
There was in the last century a Kinsman Honsc. The host was Aaron Kinsman, who served as captain in a New Hampshire regi- ment at Bunker Hill, and owned an eight-acre estate with a good frontage on North Main street, opposite School. On this site he kept a hotel before 1790, when he married a Hanover widow and moved away to the college town. The property was sold in 1791 to George Hough, who maintained there a printing-office and the post- office ; in 1817 it went into the ownership of Joseph Low.
The Stickney tavern, which bore on its sign a picture of a bold Indian chief, was on North Main, just north of its junction with Court street. Broad green yards, gardens, and orchards surrounded it, reaching back as far as Summer street, and enclosing ground now covered by Court street, as well as a part of City Hall square. Its
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