USA > New Hampshire > Grafton County > Bristol > History of the town of Bristol, Grafton County, New Hampshire, Volume I > Part 3
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One of the most noticeable examples of erosion in this part of the state is the gorge at Smith's river, about two-thirds of a mile from the Pemigewasset. From a quiet pool with sandy banks, the stream suddenly plunges into a narrow, rocky canon, thirty rods long and sixty feet deep, the water tumbling and foaming over the boulders that impede its course. At several points along the rapids in the Pemigewasset there is strong evidence that the channel has been cut through a considerable depth of till, and a similar evidence, though less prominent, appears in Newfound river near its mouth. In all of these streams pot holes are found. Fine examples of erosion occur also at
H C. H. Hitchcock, in Geology of New Hampshire, Vol. I.
2 The average height of the Alexandria meadows above Newfound lake is about fifteen feet, and the level of Foster pond is scarcely twenty- five feet above that of the lake, although no survey has, in the latter case, been made. It is assumed, therefore, that the meadows and the pond were once overflowed by the lake.
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HISTORY OF BRISTOL
the Ten-Mile brook, a few rods north of the main highway.
The rocks along the Peinigewasset river are for the most part schists, somewhat rusty. The rock forming the summit of Bristol Peak is mica schist, often badly decomposed, but showing in places glacial striæ pointing to the northwest. Bristol village is built almost wholly on ferruginous rock. Large specimens of graphite, or plumbago, are found in the township, and argentif- erous galena, gold bearing quartz, and quartz crystals were formerly taken west of North Bristol, where a tunnel was bored three hundred feet into the solid rock.
We present here the heights of the principal points in the township. Of the elevations given, that of Bristol Peak was determined by the United States coast survey; those marked G, by the state geological survey; those marked B, by an aneroid barometer (see note 1, page 2) ; and others, marked est, are estimates of competent persons.
The figures are as reliable as any obtainable.
Bristol Peak 1,785
Eastern base of Bristol Peak
B 1,249
Homans farmhouse
B 1,300
Briar hill est 1,200
Iron bridge at lake. B 600
Sugar hill B 945
Summit of road at Heath farmhouse B 999
Summit of Sugar Hill range est 1,200
Schoolhouse in the Locke
neighborhood B 838
New Chester Mt. B 1,103
Nelson farmhouse B 1,043
Little Round Top est 1,065
Site of Clay farmhouse B
914
River at Pemigewasset bridge G
438
J. W. Şanborn house
B 735
Pemigewasset bridge G 462
High bridge, 2-3 m. from mouth of Smith's river est 445
Mouth of Newfound river G 352
Bristol station G 369
Town line on hill road to Alexandria B 868
Mouth of Smith's river G 320
Gale's hill est 1,150
Cross's hill
est 1,100
Railroad bridge at Smith's river G 327
Newfound river at Central square G 457
Main street bridge G 469
Newfound lake G 590
Summit of old road on New Chester Mt. B 845
CHAPTER II
SCENERY
Lake of the Northland ! keep thy dower Of beauty still, and while above The solemn mountains speak of power, Be thou the mirror of God's love.
-Whittier.
Cultured taste admires the scenery of Bristol. Variety, the foremost charm of the scenery of the White Mountains, is here presented, inexhaustible in its resources and unlimited in its manifold combinations. Verdant hills and rock-crowned mount- ains ; rich pastures and smiling meadows ; tranquil streams whose waters reflect the summer sky, and rivers which tumble headlong through rocky canons ; one of the sweetest lakes that the Creator has sprinkled among the granite hills-these features combine to make the scenery of Bristol unsurpassed outside the very heart of the White Mountains.
Lakes afford one of the chief elements of beauty in any landscape ; Newfound, or Pasquaney lake, therefore, is easily the most beautiful feature of our local scenery. The "lake is very fortunate in the variety that it offers. There is no sameness to dispel the charm of one's first impression. It is a lake of long points, of mountain vistas, of romantic retreats and groves, of long sand beaches, of wooded islands, of craggy shores." It is truly a highland lake, being almost surrounded by noble hills and mountains. On the western shore rise the precipitous ledges of Sugar Loaf, and the massive walls of Bear mountain. On the northern shore is the cragged summit of Crosby mountain, and the high, heavily wooded ridges of Tenney hill. Wade's hill rises gracefully from the East Hebron shore and culminates in the desolate summit of Plymouth mountain. The fertile slopes of the Bridgewater range, terminating in Bristol Peak, border the lake on the east, and the highest summit of the Sugar Hill range is near at hand in the southeast.
Through the gaps among these near elevations are seen many pleasing mountain pictures. From the waters near May- hew island glance into the west and behold the glistening ledges of Cardigan over two thousand feet above you. To the left is the symmetrical summit of Forbes mountain, and the long graceful slopes of Pine mountain, while in the south are New Chester mountain, Periwig, Bartlett hill, Page and Wilson mountains,
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HISTORY OF BRISTOL
and three peaks of Ragged mountain. The forest-crowned mass of Sanbornton mountain fills the southeastern horizon, and the thickly wooded summits of Groton tower above the peaceful intervales of Hebron. But this is not all. From the vicinity of Crescent bay glance into the northland, and you will see, if the atmosphere is clear, the twin pyramids of Lafayette and Lincoln, the highest of the famed Franconias. Look slightly to the right, and you will see Mt. Flume, familiarly known as the Haystack. Still farther to the right a whole cluster of peaks arrests your attention : Hancock, Osceola, Tecumseh, and Fisher, in the heart of the Waterville wilderness. The forest-clad slopes of Mt. Stinson are visible from the central part of the lake over the right shoulder of Tenney hill.
Thus is completed a list of the principal summits visible from the surface of our mountain lake, and all can be seen from that portion within the limits of our own township. They in- clude fifteen summits which reach an altitude of two thousand feet, while several are more than twice that height. No lake in the state can excel ours in this respect, if any other of its size can equal it. To her comparatively low elevation' and her much loftier mountains, Newfound owes her charm. Listen to one of the lake's fondest admirers2 : "Pasquaney surpasses Walden in its surroundings. Both are gems 'of purest ray serene, ' yet Pasquaney has the most charming setting. Walden is not en- circled by a chain of hills ; it has no massive Alp-like Cardigan, standing with bare, storm-scarred head on its horizon ; it cannot look into the blue indefinite northeast and see the twin peak like a dreamy summer cloud, the first of the distant Franconias. But Walden will ever be immortal, because Thoreau is im- mortal, and Pasquaney will still sleep on."
Every true lover of nature who has come into close touch with Newfound and her immediate surroundings is laden with sweet memories. In the midst of his toil, he remembers . the solitary quiet he enjoyed beneath the whispering pines of Belle isle, completely cut off, as it were, from his fellow men; he remembers that romantic little voyage up the shady windings of Fowler's river ; he remembers the enchanting views he obtained from the summit of Mayhew island, from Grove hill, or from Bear mountain-but the one thing which has left the most vivid picture in his mind is Sugar Loaf and the Ledge. In its total impression, Sugar Loaf is truly great and sublime. Conceive a mountain towering nearly seven hundred feet above the water, often perpendicular, crowned with ledges to its very summit, the whole great mass extending down into the lake; and add to
I Lake Sunapee, at high water mark, is on an exact level with the summit of New Chester mountain.
2 Fred Lewis Pattee in Pasquaney Echoes.
NEWFOUND LAKE FROM SLEEPER FARM
٢
II
SCENERY
the scene a carriage road wriggling along close to the water. To stand on this narrow, winding road, when the afternoon sun throws the shadow of the mountain upon the water, is an ex- perience one can never forget. He may glance across the bay and see Breezy point, stretching out its arm as if to salute the two beautiful islands which stand like sentinels guarding the little bay; he may look across the waters to the lofty forest- crowned hills on the farther shore, and behold, through a narrow gap, the distant Franconias-a scene of matchless beauty-but his eyes will return instinctively to the wonderful mass towering behind him. What a mighty mountain wall it is! Many of the ledges are cracked and seamed "as if the forces of decay had wound their coils fairly around them and were crumbling them at leisure"; others are carpeted with mosses that have been nourished and thickened by centuries. Here and there great boulders protrude from their neighbors, as if they had fought their way to the front, and they almost seem to hang in the air, just waiting for a touch to send them rolling and crashing into the stillness beneath. Away up on the ledges dwarfed trees
Stretch out their arms in pity to the blast, And clutch for life the crevice of the rock,
while decaying trees and stumps tell sadly of vain struggles for existence. The sight of such gigantic cliffs fills the eye and mind with awe, admiration, and delight. The picture is one that will fade only with the recollections and dreams of childhood.
The hills and mountains of Bristol afford, next to the lake, the most attractive natural features. The lake is known to the multitude; the mountains and hills are familiar to the few. Yet there are several summits within the limits of the township which afford splendid panoramas. The lofty summit is lacking, but herein lies the secret of the charming views. "The prospect from minor mountains is far more interesting than that from extreme elevations, where the scenery of the adjacent country is lost and confounded by the remoteness of the situation."I Who could wish to look upon pictures more beautiful than those visible from the summit of Bristol Peak, Gale's hill, or New Chester mountain? From each of these summits is seen wonder- ful vistas of mountain, lake and forest, on which the eye and mind of the true lover of nature "may linger long and profit much."
Touched by a light that hath no name, A glory never sung, Aloft on sky and mountain-wall Are God's great pictures hung.
Bristol Peak affords the most extensive view obtainable in the township. The prospect extends from Mt. Washington in
I Baron Humboldt.
I2
HISTORY OF BRISTOL
the north to Pack Monadnock in the south, and embraces the two essential elements of attractive scenery-beauty and grandeur. Newfound lake sparkles a thousand feet below, "a crystal lake in an emerald setting," and the storm-torn sides of Cardigan glisten in the sunlight like the massive walls of an ancient fortress. The feature of the prospect is, however, the splendid Sandwich mountains, which array themselves in imposing grandeur in the northeast, with the distant dome of Mt. Wash- ington beyond. There are Sandwich Dome, Whiteface, Wona- lancet, and Paugus ; Chocorua lifts his proud head apart from the others, as if he had had a quarrel, and Passaconaway peers over the right shoulder of Whiteface to see what the trouble is all about. How proud and secure those mountains are ! What weight and what spirit! They are not dead matter, they live ! Is it not wholesome to
Look upward to those northern mountains cold, And gather strength to bear a nobler part?
Then there is old Moosilauke in the north. How lonely and desolate he looks. His head is scarcely fanned by the breath of summer, yet he feels such storms as the valleys never know and could not bear. And there is Kearsarge in the southwest. The sweep of its sides is at once graceful and bold. The old mountain stands without a rival to fret its composure ; it is indisputably the monarch of the summits in that direction. What a company of hills surrounds the noble mountain, as if the mountain had given a party and all the hills were hurrying up to answer the invitation. The far-stretching south affords a pleasing contrast, sweeping out like a vast and many-colored sea, out of which Pack Monadnock gleams like a sail dropping slowly below the horizon.
The View: The neighboring summit of the Bridgewater range completely shuts out the distant view to the north, but over its eastern slope is presented a mountain picture unexcelled in central New Hamp- shire. In the distance the majestic dome of Mt. Washington towers far above the wilderness summit of Kancamagus, which in turn rises over the Campton mountains. The imposing summits of the Sandwich range stretch away to the east. The great, lofty mass of Sandwich Dome, or Black mountain, rises just to the right of Mt. Washington, with the secondary summit of Bald Knob on its left. Flat mountain connects the Dome with Whiteface, which shows a bleached front, with Passaconaway, the highest of the range, peering over its eastern shoulder. The scraggy mass of Paugus is next, and the range culminates in the splendid spire of Chocorua. The low green cone nearly in line with Passaconaway is Wonalancet; and slightly to the left is the bold ridge of Mt. Israel. In nearly the same direction is a glimpse of Squam lake, with the Squam mountains forming a steep wall on the west. The celebrated Green hills, in Conway, are visible over the eastern slope of Chocorua.
The double-crested Red hill stands due northeast. The highest summit in the foreground nearly in line with that elevation is Beech hill, at the farther base of which is the Boston and Maine railroad near Winona. To the right, in the distance, stretches the undulating Ossipee
THE HIGH BRIDGE, SMITH'S RIVER
I3
SCENERY
range, beginning with Black Snout and culminating in Mt. Shaw. Still farther to the right the island-strewn waters of Winnepesaukee smile in the sunlight. On the farther shore is Copple Crown mountain, and slightly to the right and nearer is the Belknap range. Mt. Belknap is the first summit, Mt. Gunstock the second, and the inferior summit of Gilmanton Peak is still farther to the right. The undulating hills of New Hampton occupy the immediate foreground, and Pemigewasset and Wickwas ponds (commonly called Kelley and "Nigger," respectively) lie nearly in line with the Belknap peaks.
Across the valley in the southeast is Sanbornton mountain, which towers so close at hand that a large portion of the distant view is hidden ; but over its left slope are seen the Blue hills in Strafford, and several unnamed hills in Northwood and Pittsfield, while over its right slope are seen several summits in Hillsboro county-first the twin domes of the Uncanoonucs in Goffstown, followed by the long whaleback of Joe English hill in New Boston, Crotched mountain in Francestown, and the Pack Monadnock range in Peterboro and Temple. The distant view is again cut off by the splendid pyramid of Kearsarge, which towers majestically beyond Bristol village, and renders insignificant the summits of Periwig, New Chester mountain, Bartlett hill, and Page, Wilson, and Ragged mountains, which occupy the foreground in the order named. To the right of Ragged mountain, in the distance, is the serrated Sunapee, and next in order is Pinnacle mountain in Wilmot, the low hills of Danbury, and Melvin hill in Springfield. The western horizon is occupied by the long slopes of Pine mountain, the symmetrical summit of Forbes, and the massive and lofty peaks of Cardigan. 1
Newfound lake now arrests the attention. To the left of the ridge which Bristol Peak throws off to the west can be seen the foot of the lake with its little hamlet of boathouses, while to the right can be seen the whole expanse north of Mayhew island. On the farther side, rising above the little bay and islands, is the ledge-crowned Sugar Loaf, with Bear mountain just behind, and on the northern shore are Crosby mountain and Tenney hill. Spectacle pond in Groton is visible over the western slope of Crosby. To the right of Tenney hill is Wade's hill, swelling into the high summit of Plymouth mountain. Smart's mountain, in Dorchester and Lyme, towers far above the wooded summits of Groton, and a little farther to the right is the symmetrical summit of Mt. Cube in Orford. Over the western spur of Plymouth mountain rises the splendid mass of Mt. Carr, and over the eastern slope is the forest-covered Mt. Stinson. In the distance, overtopping all, is the majestic Moosilauke, with its crowning hotel distinguishable with the naked eye.
Mountains and lakes are not, however, the only objects visible from Bristol Peak. Villages, marked usually by church spires, are scattered here and there through the valleys. Nearly in line with Sandwich Dome the thriving village of Ashland is seen among the hills. Due east from the point of vision lies the classic village of New Hampton, with its white church spire and institution buildings conspicuous ; and far beyond, in nearly the same line, is the small hamlet of Meredith Center. At the head of Newfound lake a white spire marks the location of Hebron, and due west, at the very foothills of Cardigan, is Alexandria village. Finally, in the southwest, nestling in the valley, with a solid background
' Cardigan has two prominent summits, Baldface and Firescrew, and one inferior summit, Crane. Baldface is the highest peak, and is named from its marked physical characteristic. The northern peak received its name in 1855, when the mountain was swept by a conflagration. As the flames curled about the tall trees on the sky line of the summit, a beholder remarked that they looked like " screws of fire "; hence the name. Crane is the inferior summit south of Baldface.
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HISTORY OF BRISTOL
of hills and mountains, is our own Bristol village, with the Congregational church steeple prominent.
New Chester mountain affords a view of considerable extent and beauty. Sanbornton mountain, with its almost illimitable forests of pine, towers close at hand in the east. What a tremendous mass it is! So solid, yet soaring, it seems to lift itself to that glorious height. The outlook down the Pemi- gewasset valley is one of extreme magnificence. The river, fringed by fertile meadows, flows on and loses itself among the fading lines of many nameless hills. In the west the densely wooded slopes of Pine mountain ripple off into the fertile fields.
The View : The Pemigewasset valley, with its winding river, stretches away to the south toward the twin Uncanoonucs, which are visible against the horizon. Hill village, with its two church spires, is visible in the valley about four miles away. To the left are the hills of North- field and Franklin, and far beyond are two faint summits in Epsom, Fort and McKoy's mountains. In the immediate foreground are the three precipitous peaks of Periwig, and to the left are unnamed summits between Hill and Andover, and the hills of Boscawen and Concord. Between New Chester mountain and Periwig flows Smith's river, though it is seen only near its junction with the Pemigewasset farther east and at several points in the valley towards the Danbury hills.
To the right of Periwig are Bartlett hill, and Page and Wilson mountains, the last two I overtopping everything else in that direction. Kearsarge lifts its head over the left slope of Page mountain, and two summits of Ragged mountain are seen to the right of Wilson. Next appear the hills of Wilmot, Danbury, and Melvin hill. Pine mountain occupies a great part of the western horizon, and to the right are the symmetrical summit of Forbes mountain and the two splendid peaks of Cardigan, the monarch of central New Hampshire.
A seeming extension of Cardigan terminates abruptly in the notched summit of Bear mountain, with the round mass of Sugar Loaf at its base. Burns's and Gale's hills occupy the foreground in nearly the same line of vision. Over the right slope of Bear mountain are the high hills of Groton, and next in order are Crosby mountain and Tenney hill in Hebron. Over the left shoulder of the latter is seen a spur of Mt. Carr, and to the right is the distant summit of Moosilauke, its crowning hotel being easily seen. Farther to the right are the long ridge of Mt. Stinson, Plymouth mountain, with Wade's hill, its secondary summit, and the long Bridge- water range. Through the gap between Bridgewater Peak and Plymouth mountain are seen a group of mountains in the East Branch country- first the south peak of the Twin mountains; then the two pyramids of Guyot and Bond, which rise above Scar Ridge, in Livermore. Scar Ridge extends westward into the inferior summit of Black mountain, which appears in the foreground just to the left of Twin.
Three summits of the Sandwich range are seen through the first gap to the right of Bristol Peak-Whiteface in the center, with Flat mountain at its left and Passaconaway just visible over its eastern shoulder. Briar hill in the foreground is next in order, and then comes the colossal spire of "Chocorua, the sharpest summit east of the Rockies." The Green hills of Conway are visible to the right of Chocorua. The New Hampton
' These two summits are commonly called Murray hill. Strictly speaking, Murray hill is merely a terrace on the northern slopes of these summits which is traversed by a road about 1,200 feet in height. Dick- erson hill is the name of the next terrace above, its average elevation being about 1,400 feet.
VIEW FROM SUGAR HILL
I5
SCENERY
hills occupy the foreground, reaching their highest summit in Burleigh mountain, and beyond stretches the undulating Ossipee range, with Black Snout at its left extremity and Mt. Shaw at its right. One of the summits of Red hill is visible about midway between Black Snout and Chocorua. Burleigh mountain swells into the splendid Sanbornton mountain, which hides the distant view in that direction. In the im- mediate foreground, nearly in line with Sanbornton, is Little Round Top, and in line with Mt. Stinson is the low and precipitous Sugar hill, with the thriving village of Bristol at its feet. A portion of Newfound lake is visible just beyond.
Gale's hill affords a view which, in some respects, is superior to that from Bristol Peak. The prospect is less extensive, but it is remarkable for its peaceful beauty. In the northeast are seen several of the Waterville summits-Fisher, Osceola, and Tecumseh-with the distant dome of Mt. Washington beyond ; but the near prospect is more pleasing. The view of Newfound lake is the most beautiful obtainable from any of the Bristol summits. The perspective is fortunate, the mountain-walls of the lake appearing to great advantage. Sugar Loaf, into whose granite hardness the torrents and rock-slides have torn deep dikes, rises precipitously from the water's edge, and the mighty cliffs of Bear mountain tower just behind as if in protection. At their feet lies the peaceful lake, with promontories and islands in full view, the crystal waves extending to the very slopes of Crosby mountain and Tenney hill, which are overtopped by the majestic mass of Mt. Carr. Gale's hill affords also the finest view of Cardigan, whose splendid granite peaks leap a thousand feet above the primeval forests, forming an effective contrast with the elm-sprinkled meadows in the foreground. The scene imparts an Arcadian air to the smiling meadows with their scattered farmhouses, and its sweet pastoral beauty quiets the most restless nature.
Sugar hill affords the most striking view of Bristol village to be found in the township; and the whole outlook, although limited, is one of beauty. The mighty Moosilauke is visible in the distant north, and in the west gleams the massive front of Cardigan. The slopes of New Chester mountain contain dream-like bits of pastoral gentleness, while in the south is seen a portion of the Pemigewasset river, whose "mountain-born brightness glances down to the sea." The natural attractions escape, however, the attention of the majority of those who ascend the steep slopes of Sugar hill. Most persons see only the throb- bing village in the deep valley, a picture which furnishes a marked contrast with the wholesome quiet of the surrounding hills.
Burns's hill affords a pleasing view. Bristol village nestles in the deep valley with the dark and sombre forests of Sanbornton mountain forming a striking background. The view to the north includes a portion of Newfound lake, and the mountains
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HISTORY OF BRISTOL
appear in the same relative positions as when viewed from Gale's hill. Mt. Gunstock is visible in the distance just to the left of Sanbornton mountain, a portion of the Ossipee range is seen over the eastern foothills of Bristol Peak, and the splendid peaks of Cardigan are visible in the west. While the view from Burns hill is pleasing, the principal attraction of the eminence lies not in the view afforded of other summits, but in the impressive peacefulness of its own. Here, in the cool shade of perfumed locust trees, sleep the dead of by-gone generations-here is the Burns burying-ground. This ancient cemetery is situated at an altitude of eleven hundred feet-
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