USA > New Hampshire > Grafton County > Holderness > Holderness : an account of the beginnings of a New Hampshire town > Part 5
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HOLDERNESS
people in general were sturdy, thrifty, and self-respecting farmers.
There was little wealth in Holderness, but little poverty. In 1781, John Ennis was paid five shillings a week "for keeping and supporting Margaret Lyons in decent
washing, lodging and victualing."
The
next year they reduced her to four shillings. Squire Livermore's account books show that the price of oats was two shillings a bushel; and of Indian corn, rye, and pease, four, five, and six shillings respectively. Men who worked on the farms in the sum- mer got thirty shillings a month. Mrs. Samuel Shepard, when she drew up her will, made particular mention not only of "my red cloth cloke," but of "my silver spoon."
In 1791, they paid for doctoring Peggy Lyons one pound, two shillings and eleven pence. At that time, the doctor's usual fee was eight pence a visit. Dr. Lee's True Billious Pills were advertised in the " Dart- mouth Centinel" of 1797 as especially good "after a debauch of eating or drinking." About the same time there was some dis- cussion in the papers as to the virtues of
81
THE COUNTRY TOWN
Dr. Perkins's Metallic Instruments for rheumatism.
Some of the old houses still stand strong and steadfast, simple and dignified struc- tures, denoting the modest prosperity of their owners. Beside the doors the house- wives of the present generation have planted splendid clumps of golden-glow. Every year, the dwellings of the summer residents increase in number, but they are for the most part quiet habitations, on good terms with the lakes and the wooded hills. The Livermores sold the Governor's Farm to Mr. Whiton, from whom it passed to Canon Balch of Montreal, and from him to the Holderness School. Canon Balch had a boys' camp on Chocorua Island, whose chapel is still a sanctuary; and his example made Squam Lake a favorite place for that wholesome form of summer life. In 1852, the interests of the great world touched these shores for a moment, when Harvard and Yale rowed in the first intercollegiate regatta at Centre Harbor,1 and the captains dined with the Whitons.
1 Dr. J. M. Whiton's Commemoration of the First Intercolle- giate Regatta, 1903.
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HOLDERNESS
It is remembered that on the day preced- ing the race neither crew pulled an oar for fear of blistering their hands. The War of the Union carried young men from Holderness into far fields, from which some of them never returned. For several summers, John G. Whittier lived among these scenes, sometimes at the Sturtevant Farm, near Centre Harbor, where he slept in Priest Fowle's bed, and is remembered by the Whittier Pine, -the "Wood Giant" of his verse; sometimes at the Asquam House, where he wrote his "Storm on Lake Asquam." He glorified with his appreciative poetry our wooded shores, and green islands, and sunny fields, and horizon line of noble hills. He is the poet of the ever-increasing company of those who have Holderness in their hearts, for whom this book is written.
APPENDIX
WALKS AND DRIVES IN THE NEIGHBOR- - HOOD OF HOLDERNESS BY FREDERICK LEWIS ALLEN
APPENDIX
VIEW FROM THE SHEPARD HILL
(From the roof of the Asquam House)
A BOUT west is Holderness village, to the right of which rise the Domes. Over these hills is the blue peak of Mt. Stinson, with a little of Mt. Carr over it. North of the "Domes" is Mt. Livermore, with Prospect's huge bulk farther away and to the right, and nearer at hand lies the broad southwest bay of the lake. From Mt. Livermore northward the long Squam Range extends, with the twin Rattle- snakes below its right portion, and with the lofty ridge of Sandwich Dome looming over it, nearly over the towers of the Mt. Livermore House, across the lake. To the right of Sandwich Dome are the ridges and double peak of Whiteface, while nearer and farther to the right is the dark notched dome of Israel. Paugus and Chocorua, the latter with its white peak, come next, over Mooney's Point. Just to the right of Chocorua a tiny bit of the Green Hills near Conway may be seen.
Red Hill is considerably to the right of these mountains, and only about six miles away. The
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lake, dotted with islands, is spread out below. Over the right flank of Red Hill is the blue mass of Ossipee, while farther to the right and much nearer are the low dark ridges of Sunset Hill. The gaze next falls on White Oak Pond, with the deli- cate blue peak of the Copple Crown over its left end, and the Belknap Mountains over its central portion. Farther to the right is Beech Hill, sloping off sharply to the left, and then the view is shut out by the near-by mass of Leavitt Hill, about south. Little Squam Lake is about southwest, while over it are the Bridgewater Hills, the distant Mt. Cardigan, bulky Plymouth Mountain, and Church Hill, with Tenney Hill over it. Then the more distant outlook is shut out by the low hills over Holderness village.
THE DOMES
Of these three or four wooded peaks none are worth ascending except Peak of Fayal. Cotton Mountain, the highest, and Kesumpe, farthest to the northeast, have been frequently climbed, but there is no outlook from their wooded summits. Peak of Fayal is topped by an observatory which commands one of the most picturesque views about Squam Lake. It is ascended by a road starting in just opposite Smith Piper's Store, next to the Central House. Follow this road to the summit, being care- ful not to lose it where it bends sharply to the right in the highest fields, and you will be rewarded by a
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APPENDIX
rich prospect from the observatory. To the north and west are the wild, wooded, picturesque domes, between which are the great bulky form of Prospect and glimpses of the higher peaks beyond. To the west and south are Mts. Stinson and Carr, Mt. Cuba, Mt. Cardigan, Plymouth Mountain and the Bridgewater Hills and Leavitt Hill, over which is Beech Hill (in this order from right to left). To the northeast the Squam Range bends about the lake with Chocorua's blanched spire beyond, over the Rattlesnakes. But the most beautiful sight is the lakes. The bays of Great Squam reach up just be- low the peak, and the winding outlet may be fol- lowed till it flows into Little Squam. The rugged domes and the placid lake give a most vivid con- trast, and it is this that lends charm to the view.
THE SQUAM RANGE
The Squam Range is a long ridge running from the southern end of Sandwich Notch a little south of west to Mt. Morgan, its highest point, thence about southwest to the "Hardscrabble" or "Mountain " road just north of Mt. Livermore. There are sev- eral points of nearly equal height on the range. The easternmost is a rounded summit called Sandwich Mountain on the maps (height about 2100 ft.), then come two wooded peaks known as Double- head (2000 ft.), on whose slopes are fields reaching to within a quarter of a mile of the summit, and
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APPENDIX
finally the high knubbles of Morgan, the southern- most being 2162 ft. high. The long Hardscrabble ridge to the south is only about 1900 ft. high.
A very interesting and beautiful, though rather difficult, walk is enjoyed by leaving the main road at Etheridge's farmhouse, at the foot of Doublehead, and going at first through woods and pastures, then following the open fields to their upper edge, and ascending the left peak of Doublehead through the ravine between the peaks; walking thence along the ridge to Morgan, and from Morgan down to the open fields high above the Wallace farm. This walk may be taken the other way, but it is not advisable.
To ascend Mt. Morgan from the Wallace farm, back of the Rattlesnakes, inquire for a path going through the " sap-yard," to the site of an old farm. Beyond the old farm keep up to the upper left-hand corner of the fields, then go through the woods either by the ravine to the hollow between Morgan and East Morgan, or diagonally, due west, to the southern spurs of Morgan, and thence up.
The Views. From Doublehead, one of the most beautiful prospects of the lake is enjoyed, and in addition there is a fine vista between Sandwich Dome and Weetamoo, and a wild and picturesque view of these mountains.
Over the right flank of Squam Range are Stinson and Carr, then come Campton and Weetamoo, across the valley, over which are Kineo and the lofty Moosilauke ridge. To the right of Weetamoo
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APPENDIX
come, in turn, Kinsman, with Cannon's hump be- low, the rocky slopes of Welch, Tecumseh with its knob, and Osceola with its flattened top.
Between Welch and Tescumseh are Flume and Lincoln of the distant Franconia range. Sandwich Dome's vast bulk is just across the Beebe River valley, to the right of which are Whiteface, Passa- conaway over its shoulder, Sandwich Mountain of the Squam Range, dark Israel, and the southern ridge of Chocorua.
The distant southern peaks are as follows :-
West Uncanoonuc - over Oak Hill, Meredith, and East Rattlesnake.
Joe English Hill - over Hodges Cove, Lake Asquam.
Pack Monadnock, Temple Mountain, and Kid- der Mountain, grouped together-over White Oak Pond and Beech Hill.
Crotchet Mountain -just to the right of the latter peaks.
Monadnock Mountain - just to the left of Kear- sarge in southern New Hampshire and over the Leavitt Hill.
From Morgan. Lincoln and Lafayette are just to the right of Weetamoo; then comes ledgy Welch Mountain, with Fisher over it and Tecumseh to the right; then, Osceola's two peaks; Hancock, be- yond; and Kancamagus, with Carrigan over it, to the left of Sandwich Dome. The view of the lake is the best that can be gained.
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APPENDIX
The climb from Etheridge's to Doublehead, along the ridge to Mt. Morgan and thence down to the Wallace farm, may be done in from four to six hours.
MT. LIVERMORE
Mt. Livermore, which commands one of the most beautiful views about Lake Asquam, may be ascended very easily from the Mt. Livermore House. There are two routes, as follows: -
1. Go up the grassy "Lover's Lane " back of the hotel, then follow the " upper road" to the right, till you reach the first farmhouse on the left, whence there is a well-marked path to the summit.
2. After you reach the upper road keep along to the right till the "Hardscrabble " or "Mountain road is reached. Follow this right up to the top of the ridge, whence a path leads to the left, a quarter of a mile, to the summit.
The first is recommended for those at the hotel and to the south, the second for those to the north.
The View is very beautiful. To the north Mt. Moosilauke, Mt. Kinsman, and Cannon Mountain are seen between Prospect's huge bulk and Camp- ton Mountain; a little to the right Mts. Fisher and Tecumseh loom up over the shoulder of Campton Mountain; then come the Squam Range and the Sandwich Mountains. About east-northeast, to the left of Red Hill, the long blue ridge of Pleasant Mountain in western Maine is clearly seen on a fine
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day. Over Red Hill, and beyond, is Ossipee's long ridge; again about southeast is Lake Winnepe- saukee and over it the Belknap Mountains; while a little west of south is the lofty pyramid of Mt. Kearsarge near Lake Sunapee. Mt. Cuba is about west, near the Vermont line; to its right are Mts. Stinson and Carr. These are the most interesting and the most distant points seen from the peak. The view of Squam Lake being partly shut out by the low growth of oak near the top, the visitor would do well to descend to the upper end of the field just south, and view its bays and islands from that point.
MT. PROSPECT
Mt. Prospect is situated in the northern part of Holderness, 4-5 miles from Plymouth, and about 7 miles from Squam Bridge. The ascent is made from J. W. Pulsifer's Mt. Prospect Farm, on the road to Campton, west of the mountain. About 100 yards to the south of the farm the road, which formerly was used for carriages, but is now imprac- ticable for them, starts in between granite posts. It is easily followed to the summit, and the climb of 12 miles is not difficult, presenting glorious views all the way, which can best be enjoyed in the after- noon, when the visitor will be descending. There is a spring two thirds of the way up, on the right.
Low spruces are growing over the summit, and the best outlooks are obtained from the eastern
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ledge, which is crowned by a signal beacon, and from a bare, rocky field considerably to the south- west. The panorama is supposed to rank among the first ten in the White Mountains.
The View to the North. A little north of west is Mt. Kineo's sharp knob, and at the right is the long high ridge of Moosilauke. Then comes the rounded peak of Kinsman; then, Cannon, falling off abruptly into Franconia Notch; then, the beautiful pyramid of Lafayette, at whose right is Mt. Flume, lower, but very sharp. Next follow Garfield, more dis- tant, Scar Ridge, marked with a slide, a glimpse of Mt. Bond, Tecumseh's knob, with Fisher's gentle slope to the left and the ledges of Welch below, and Osceola, with its lesser peak, to the right. Below is the chain of the Campton Mountains. After Osceola comes a part of Mt. Hancock, flat Kan- camagus, over which the lofty Carrigan looms up; and finally, farther to the right, is the distant Mt. Washington.
Farther to the right is the massive bulk of Sand- wich Dome, to the east of which is Whiteface, and then Paugus, flattened on top. The Squam Range is near at hand. Over it are the peaks of Cho- corua, the dark summit of Israel, and a glimpse of Mt. Pleasant in Maine. Beyond the monotonous ridge of the Squam Range are the Ossipee Moun- tains, and Red Hill; while over the low, bare top of Mt. Livermore are Squam Lake and, far beyond, Lake Winnepesaukee.
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APPENDIX
To the east, the foreground is the narrow valley of Owl Brook, to the west the broad and beautiful Pemigewasset Valley.
The following distant peaks are visible to the south :---
Twin Uncanoonucs, Manchester, N. H. Over Little Squam Lake.
Joe English Hill, and perhaps Wachusett in Massachusetts.
To the right of the New Hampton Hills, Crotchet Mountain in Francestown, then Pack Monadnock and Temple Mountain, together. Last is Mt. Kear- sarge at Sunapee, over the Ragged Mountains.
MT. ISRAEL, SANDWICH
A pleasant day's excursion may be made from Holderness, by taking the morning boat to Sand- wich, meeting a wagon, engaged by telephone of Brown, in Sandwich, driving to Mt. Israel, and hav- ing the wagon take you back in time for the after- noon boat.
There is no path up the peak, but there are two routes which can be taken by Holderness people. They both start from the farmhouse of Lewis Q. Smith. The first strikes straight up, by an old stone wall, to the top of the southern ridge, and follows the ridge to the summit. The second bears to the right across the fields to their extreme upper right-
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APPENDIX
hand corner, and then strikes for the summit. There is no path.
Each route takes from 1} to 24 hours. The best view is from the East Peak, which is crowned by a beacon. The view is very fine, especially to the north.
The View. Sandwich Dome shuts out most of the northern view with its vast bulk, being only a few miles away. To the right is Tripyramid, marked with a great slide. A high ridge runs from Tri- pyramid to Whiteface; then come Passaconaway, Paugus, white Chocorua, and distant Mt. Pleasant in Maine, to whose right are the low peaks of Mts. Saddleback and Prospect in Maine. The long range of Ossipee is about southeast, on whose right is Lake Winnepesaukee, with the heights of Copple Crown and Tumble Down Dick over it. Nearer at hand is the low mass of Red Hill, over which are the two peaks of Mt. Belknap, clearly outlined, while to the right Lake Winnesquam can be seen. Lake Asquam fills out the southern foreground, laid out like a great map in the valley. Over the lake, and far away to the south, a great many dis- tant peaks may be seen, including the Twin Un- canoonucs, the Temple Hills, and Mt. Monadnock, all of them over 50 miles away. Over the right of Little Squam Lake, which is to the right of Big Squam, is the clear blue point of Mt. Kearsarge, with the Ragged Mountains nearer and to the right. Nearer still are the low Bridgewater Hills. Over
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these is Lovell's Mountain in Washington, while just to the right of Kearsarge is Mt. Sunapee, about the same distance away. In the southwest is the great mass of the Squam Range, with Mt. Morgan farthest to the right, over which is the comparatively level top of Mt. Prospect, almost as near.
Farther away rises Mt. Cardigan, on whose right, and extending some distance, are a number of dis- tant Vermont peaks, including Mt. Ascutney. On the right of the Beebe River valley, nearer at hand, is Mt. Stinson, fairly. sharp, and then comes the dark level ridge of Mt. Carr. Between these two, and only a few miles away, are the low Campton Mountains, separated from Sandwich Dome by the gorge of Sandwich Notch, over which are Mt. Kineo, sharply cut, and the high ridge of Moosilauke.
LEAVITT HILL
This little-known hill, about 1300 feet in height, covers the large area between Little Squam Lake and White Oak Pond. The western slope is largely cleared and from the top commands a fine pano- rama of distant mountains.
It is most easily reached by the road which ascends northeasterly from the outlet of Little Squam Lake, and, passing the clearing at the sum- mit, then descends southerly by the Holmes Farm. This road is unsafe for a vehicle.
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APPENDIX
A charming walk to this hill follows the route of an obsolete road beginning in a lane, leaving the main road a little south of Bruce Piper's and H. S. Buzzel's on White Oak Pond. Follow this road through pastures, wood, and pastures again till you come out on an eminence, commanding a view of Little Squam Lake below. Descend to the left, cross the brook, and then ascend the pastures to the top of the clearing first mentioned.
The View. Beginning at the left is the flat ridge of Tenney Hill. Next Mt. Piermont, Church Hill near at hand, and then Mt. Stinson, with Mt. Carr directly behind. After Stinson comes Kineo, falling off sharply to the left, and over Kineo's right shoul- der the conspicuous mass of Mt. Moosilauke. Mt. Prospect with its high fields comes next, and over a hollow on its right, distant Cannon Mountain. On a clear day the Franconia group stands out finely, with the two peaks of Lincoln and La- fayette, and the sharp pyramid of Flume to the right.
Then comes the long ridge of Campton and Wee- tamoo, with Mts. Fisher and Tecumseh and a bit of Osceola over its right end. Mt. Morgan, with Mt. Livermore first beneath it, shuts out the dis- tant view. The Rattlesnakes appear below the Squam Range and the great mass of Sandwich Dome rises above. Last in turn appear Mts. White- face, Passaconaway, Israel, Paugus, and Cho- corua.
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APPENDIX
SUNSET HILL
Sunset Hill is about seven miles east of Squam Bridge, not far from Center Harbor. It may be reached by following the Center Harbor road for about 52 miles, and then taking a crossroad to the right, which finally reaches the old (upper) Mere- dith-Center Harbor road. The ascent may easi- est be made from a farmhouse on this road, just north of the crossroads. The way to the summit is all through fields, except for one narrow strip of woods. The view of Lake Winnepesaukee on the east and Squam Lake on the west is very pretty, though not very extensive. The Belknap Range is to the right of Winnepesaukee; farther to the right Mt. Kearsarge at Sunapee is seen among the San- bornton Hills; and more to the west is Cardigan's rocky dome.
The broad southern slope, which is the best view- point, makes a good picnic ground. The woods, unfortunately, shut out the northern outlook.
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST
Rattlesnake Mountain. Lies on the west shore of Squam Lake, and is double-peaked. Ascend the east peak.
Red Hill. Northeast of the lake. Go by carriage to the foot, and climb by road and good path about
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APPENDIX
an hour. One of the best views in the mountains is gained from the observatory on the summit.
Lone Pine Hill. About one mile south of East Holderness. Leave the road at the site of the old Squam Mountain House, and climb through the fields to the great pine. The view is good.
McCrillis Hill. South of Lone Pine Hill. A car- riage road leads to the top, where a beautiful view of the higher peaks is gained.
Oak Hill, Meredith. About two miles southeast of Winona Station. Ascend from a carriage shed on the road about a quarter of a mile to the open sum- mit. The view includes Moosilauke, Lafayette (just to the left of Morgan), Tecumseh, and Osceola.
Diamond Ledge, Sandwich. To the north of the lake. Road passes near the top. Commands a strik- ing view of the Sandwich Mountains, and an out- look over the lake.
Squaw Cove, Lake Asquam. In the northwest part of the lake, just north of the Rattlesnakes.
High Haight. A peninsula on the east shore of the lake. From the high rocky pasture there is an exquisite view. Good picnic ground.
LONGER DRIVES
Around the lake. A beautiful all-day excursion. Picnic at Diamond Ledge.
Peavey Hill. Commands a fine view. Situated southwest of Little Squam Lake.
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APPENDIX
Ossipee Park. On the slopes of Ossipee Moun- tain. Picturesque brook and falls, glorious view to the south. Long all-day excursion.
The Pinnacle. A bare eminence on Meredith Neck, near Meredith. Overlooks Lake Winnepe- saukee.
Peaked Hill, Bridgewater. One of the best view- points in Grafton County. All-day carriage trip, with very short climb at the end. Such peaks as Moosilauke, Kinsman, Lafayette, Guyot, Bond, Cardigan, and Washington are visible, while the foreground is equally beautiful.
OTHER EXCURSIONS
The following are suggested: -
Mt. Belknap. Early train to Laconia, carriage to foot, fairly easy climb, and reverse. One day.
Mt. Moosilauke. Noon train to Warren, carriage to the Moosilauke, walk to Tip-Top House. Re- verse next day, or else descend to North Woodstock.
Mt. Chocorua. Launch and carriage (Brown, of Sandwich - order by telephone) to foot. Walk to Peak House. Reverse next day.
Also steamboat trip on Lake Asquam; steam- boat trip on Lake Winnepesaukee; Locke's Hill on Winnepesaukee (by train and carriage); Mt. Wash- ington (going via Lake Winnepesaukee and Craw- ford Notch, returning by western route, three days), etc.
INDEX
ADAMS, the innholder, 35. Adams, the parson, 38.
Baker, Capt. Thomas, 15. Baptists, Free Will, 74. Bass, Rev. Edward, his elec- tion protested, 53; visits Hol- derness, 68. Belknap, Mt., 99. Books, advertised, 77.
Charter, of 1751, 21; of 1761, xi, 25.
Chocorua, 17; Mt., 99.
Church, plans for erection of, 67, 69; property of Liver- mores, 72; services, 72; de- cline, 73, 74. Church Hill, 24. Cohoss, 22.
Constitution of U. S., Liver- more moves adoption of, 64. Cox, James, 65. Curry, Samuel, 55. Cusumpy, 23.
Diamond Ledge, 98. Domes, the, view from, 86.
Endicott Rock, 1-8. Endicott tree, 4.
Fowle, Rev. Robert, his com- ing to Holderness, 69; ordina- tion, 70; marriage, 70; lot, 71; membership in Diocesan Convention, 73; long minis- try, 73, 74; death, 74.
Gorges and Mason, 1, 2. Grantees, list of, 59.
Harvard College, 49. High Haight, 98. Holderness, in Yorkshire, 29; in poetry and fiction, 30. Holderness, Earl of, 31-34.
Ince, Jonathan, 4. Indian Trail, 12, 13. Indians of New Hampshire, 10, 11. Israel, Mt., view from, 93-95.
Johnson, Capt. Edward, 4.
Lane, Samuel, 22, 24. Leavitt Hill, 95-97. Liquor licenses, 79. Livermore, Arthur, 66, 77.
Livermore, Ed. St. Loe, 66. Livermore, Samuel, journey to Nassau, 60; studies, 61; mar- riage, 61; attorney general, 62; land in Holderness, 62; in Congress, 63; his neigh- borliness, 65; death, 66.
Livermore, Mt., view from, 90. Lone Pine Hill, 98. Lots, plan of, 35. Lovewell, Capt., 17.
Mails in 1795, 76. Massachusetts, boundary of, 37. McCrillis Hill, 98. Mooney, Hercules, 44, 45.
102
INDEX
Moosilauke, Mt., 99. Morgan, Mt., view from, 87-89.
Oak Hill, 98. Ossipee Park, 99.
Passaconaway, 14. Paugus, 17. Peaked Hill, 99. Peavey Hill, 98. Pinnacle, 99. Piper, William, 50. Prices, 80. Prospect, Mt., view from, 91-93.
Rattlesnake Mt., 97. Red Hill, 97. Road, the College, 46-50; the Province, 43. Rogers, Robert, 18.
School, Holderness, 63. Shepard, John, 51. Shepard, Samuel, 41-43. Shepard, Thomas, 21, 40. Shepard Hill, view from, 85. Sherman, John, 5. Smythe, Andrew, 53. Squam Lake, 22-24. Squam Range, view from, 87. Squaw Cove, 98. Sweeney, Bryan, 54.
Thompson, Nathaniel, 52. Town meeting, the first, 52, 57.
Wages, 57, 58, 80. Weirs, 5. Wentworth, Benning, 21, 25. Wentworth, John, 47-50.
The Riverside press PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON & CO. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. U. S. A.
1362
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