USA > New Hampshire > New Hampshire as it is. In three parts. Part I. A historical sketch of New hampshire. Part II. A gazetter of New Hampshire. Part III. A general view of New Hampshire. Together with the constitution of the State > Part 31
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Thunder storms are quite common in the summer months ; sometimes very violent. In their number differ- ent years differ greatly, as may be seen by referring to the table at the end of this article. They seem to be more frequent away from the ocean. There are a few, but very
448
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
few, instances recorded of lightning seen in the winter, and in only one or two of these accompanied by thunder.
Whirlwinds and tornadoes are very rare, yet not un- known. The aurora borealis has been seen lately, about a dozen times in the course of the year on an average ; and when we consider how many nights are moonlight, and how many cloudy, we may look upon it as quite a common phenomenon. The frequency of it is exceedingly variable in different years, and, indeed, it is considered by some in a measure periodic. It is pretty certain that for some ninety years after 1625, there were very few seen in England, for there are but two on record, while in the twenty years that followed they were remarkably frequent and brilliant. So also at Dartmouth College, in the six years 1835 to '41 inclusive, there were observed 134, of which 30 are marked " very brilliant," thus giving an aver- age of 22 per annum for those years. Of late years, as mentioned above, this phenomenon has been by no means so common. Occasionally, but of course rarely, we have very beautiful, and even magnificent, exhibitions of this splendid meteor.
These general remarks, of course, need some modifica- tions and additions to make them strictly applicable to all parts of a state which differs so much in its different dis- tricts. For instance, the White Mountain country is much colder than either the Connecticut valley or that of the Merrimack, and still more than the seaboard. It is at Franconia that the maximum of cold has been observed. In this region also falls the greatest quantity of snow and rain. Here the spring is later, and the fall earlier, by full three weeks, than in the southern part of the state. The summer is short and the winter very long, so that it
449
CLIMATE.
is not uncommon to have more than twenty weeks of sleighing.
In the Connecticut valley, extending as it does north and south for so great a distance, there is more variety. While in the north the climate is not far different from that of the White Mountains, in the southern extremity of the state it is much warmer, and more like that of Massachu- setts, so that peaches, chestnuts, &c., are found, although not so abundant as in the corresponding part of the Merri- mack valley. Along the bank of the river morning fogs are very common in the months of August and September ; but they seem to have little of the chilling and depressing effect of the ocean fogs, that sometimes occur on the coast, especially, perhaps, because the river fog's generally precede fair days, and are dispersed by nine or ten o'clock in the morning, while the latter last whole days, and are often accompanied by raw east winds and drizzling rains. These east winds are very rare in the Connecticut valley, where 75 per cent. of the winds observed are westerly, and only 25 per cent. easterly; and of this 25 per cent. full 17 are from the south-east, not an uncomfortable quar- ter, leaving only about 8 per cent. from the east and north- east. And, if we except an occasional day or two in March, those damp, murky days, when the air is filled with a rain so fine that it resembles mist, -such days as are not un- frequent near the salt water, -are wholly unknown in the western part of the state. Among the White Mountains and in the Merrimack valley there are more east winds, and yet not a large proportion, while they are as common as any on the coast. The valley of the Merrimack is not very different from that of the Connecticut, but yet is somewhat warmer, forming a kind of mean between it and the seaboard, where the temperature, though not on the
38 *
450
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
average a great deal higher, is much more uniform, the very cold and the very hot days fewer, the cloudy and stormy ones more numerous, the snow not so deep, and the winter not so long ; so that the fifteen weeks' sleighing of the interior is reduced to six or seven here. It is also more windy, because of the more level and exposed charac- ter of the country. As compared with other states, New Hampshire is one of the coldest, though part of Maine and Vermont, with Northern New York and Iowa, and other more westerly regions of the same latitude this side of the Rocky Mountains, are not very different. Its mountainous and diversified surface causes the great variety of tempera- ture which has been noticed. The quiet, deep-lying valleys become in winter basins of stinging cold, while in summer they are sometimes heated like ovens ; but the more level portions nearer the ocean, although they enjoy a more equable temperature, have far less of that clear blue sky and bracing air so peculiar to New Hampshire hills. And who can doubt that this extreme and ever-changing climate has had its due effect in moulding the energetic, self-pos- sessed, and versatile character of our New Hampshire men ? It certainly is ill adapted for the nurture of idle- ness or effeminacy, since the short summer requires a correspondingly vigorous exertion to secure the timely fruits of the earth, and the long, cold winter necessarily bestows on all who come under its influence a great power of sturdy endurance.
Subjoined is a table giving some of the principal results of the meteorological observations, from the year 1844 to 1853 inclusive, taken at Dartmouth College, which place may be considered a pretty fair type of the Connecticut valley. Its latitude is approximately 43º 42' 28"; its longitude about 72° 17', west of Greenwich, and its eleva-
451
CLIMATE.
tion 530 feet above the sea level. The mean tempera- ture of Dover and Concord is a little warmer than that of Hanover, yet not more than one or two degrees. Their mean yearly range is from 10 to 15 degrees less. The mean temperature of Franconia, on the other hand, is lower by a somewhat greater difference, and its range also less.
The greatest amount of rain which has fallen in any sin- gle month is 9.46 inches, in August, 1849. The mean yearly range of temperature is 118.4°; the extreme yearly range is 125°; and the range for the whole ten years 129°. The mean daily range is 16.3º. The extreme range of the barometer is from 28.250 inches to 30.500 inches, or 2.25 inches. The change in the relative number of the winds for the last three years, as given in the table, results from a change of observers, and the method of observation.
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
Years.
Maximum Tem- perature.
Minimum Tem-
perature.
Mean.
Amount of Rain.
Amount of Snow.
Whole Precipi-
Thunder Storms.
Days when Rain
or Snow fell.
N.
N. E.
E.
S. E.
S.
s. W.
w.
N. W.
1844
June 19, 93
Deg. Jan. 28, 30
Deg. 44.1
In. 36.53
In. 89.50
In. 45.48
18
123
78
50
10
164
73
248
59
417
17
1845
July 21, 94
Dec. 12, 29
45.0
26.09
115.50
37.64
13
114
51
64
15
125
50
260
69
442
12
1846
July 11, 95
Feb. 19, 20
44.9
29.06
79.00
36.96
19
112
66
45
10
167
46
295
67
389
16
1847
July 19, 94
Feb. 1,22
44.1
36.70
83.00
45.00
8
123
74
74
32
178
43
256
65
358
20
1848
July 17, 91
Jan. 11, 34
44.3
39.71
96.50
49.36
18
121
76
58
6
125
42
259
34
475
11₺
1849
July 13, 95
Feb. 19, 21
42.9
33.09
48.00
37.89
9
103
70
61
16
184
41
252
30
421
14
1850
July 29, 92
Feb. 6, 33
43.4
31.48
92.00
40.68
17
93
67
61
16
156
44
262
53
417
15
1851
June 30, 92
Jan. 29, 29
43.3
31.14
59.45
37.08
12
95
205
40
30
119
112
129
114
318
14
1852
July 9, 92
Jan. 16, 23
44.9
24.39
111.75 36.56
9
91
148
45
11
126
132
160
98
372
21
1853
Aug. 12, 93
Jan. 27, 12
43.5
32.04
56.50
37.69
8
117
198
36
27
123
158
131
122
302
13
Average
. . .
93.1
25.3
44.0
32.02
83.12 40.43
13.1
109.2
103.3
53.4
17.3
146.7
74.1
214.2
71.1
391.1
15.3
Percentage
9.6
5.0
1.5
13.7
6.8
20.0
6.6
36.8
Weeks of Sleigh-
452
WINDS.
tation.
ing.
Deg
.
453
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
A correct knowledge of the geological formation and mineral resources of the several states which constitute our confederacy is now deemed of the utmost importance. Nor is this surprising when we consider the amount of hidden treasure thus brought to light, or the vast amount of wealth expended with the expectation of realizing hopes which the least knowledge of the science of geology would have shown, at once, to be utterly vain. The first settlers of Virginia are not the only persons who have rejoiced at the sight of a mass of yellow mica or iron pyrites, supposing that they had found " the land of Ophir, where there is gold."
Until within a very few years the whole subject of mining, metallurgy, and mineralogy was involved in ig- norance and superstition ; and the only wonder is, that man, amidst such gross folly and error, really accomplished so much.
All knowledge is so remarkable, each new fact is so sur- prising, and every new science discloses so many wonders, that for a time it is condemned as false. Such, in a re- markable degree, has been the fate of the science of geol- ogy. Sharp has been the conflict and severe the ordeal through which it has passed before it could be received into the inner temple of the older and accredited sciences.
Until within a recent period there was no information concerning the geological structure and the mineral charac- teristics of New Hampshire, excepting that which was col- lected by private and individual research, and which was, of course, limited and defective. But in June, 1839, a law was passed, authorizing the governor to appoint a state geologist, in order to make " a thorough geological and min- eralogical survey of this state." The state geologist, " by
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NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
and with the consent of the governor and council," was re- quired to appoint an assistant for the purpose of analyzing such rocks, ores, soils, and other substances as should be presented to him for that purpose. The sum of $2000 annually for three years was appropriated to carry out the provisions of the law, and in 1842 an additional sum of $3000 was voted to continue the survey. Agreeably to the provisions of this act, Governor Page appointed Charles T. Jackson, Esq., of Boston, state geologist, under whose directions the survey was commenced in 1840, and com- pleted in 1843. The final report was made in 1844. This report imbodies a large amount of useful and impor- tant information, and has served to diffuse much light in regard to the agricultural and mineral resources of New Hampshire; while, at the same time, it has checked ex- travagant hopes and a spirit of lawless speculation.
Probably no portion of this continent, (or perhaps of the world,) of equal area, furnishes more numerous or more convincing illustrations of the principles of geology than the " Granite State," having a formation peculiarly its own, while those of the states both east and west of it are different, and similar to each other. The anticlinal axis passing nearly north and south through the entire state proves conclusively a remarkable upheaval to have taken place in this region at some time during the countless ages of the past. This, moreover, is confirmed (did it indeed need confirmation) by the fact that the rock is almost en- tirely granite, long since proved to be one of the lowest primitive rocks, only appearing upon the surface in conse- quence of being forced up through thousands of feet of superincumbent strata. From its granitic formation, in- deed, does the state derive its appellation of "Granite State," although, in the southern portion, the mica slate
455
GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.
predominates in several of the mountains, and also, to more or less extent, in other parts of the state.
The many and great changes which the surface of this state has evidently undergone have given a varied, wild, and picturesque appearance to its mountains and mountain scenery.
The drift epoch has left its witness in almost every part of the state, scratches being found upon the surface of the rocks, and extending usually in a direction nearly south, showing that the great flood of waters, from whatever source it might arise, had its origin in a direction almost due north. But, besides these, a discovery was made a few years since which is accounted of great value to the science of geology.
In the construction of the railroad from Concord to Lebanon it was found necessary to make a deep cut in the town of Orange, near what is termed the Summit, it being the highest land between the Connecticut and Merrimack Rivers, over 900 feet above the bed of those streams, and dividing the streamlets which flow into them. On this height of land were discovered, in the solid granite, pot holes over four feet in diameter at the top, two feet at the bottom, and eleven feet in depth. These were worn smooth, like those at Bellows Falls, and in them stones rounded and polished similar to those found in pot holes formed in our own times. One of these, which is now in the museum at Dartmouth College, is over two feet in length, and nearly in the form of an egg, worn and polished very smooth. Now, there can be but one solution to this prob- lem. These pot holes must have been formed by a great stream of water flowing for centuries. But in order that a stream should flow through this gap, there must have been an entirely different configuration from that which now exists, and this region must have been, at least, one thou-
456
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
sand feet lower than at present, compared with the beds of the Connecticut and Merrimack Rivers ; since which time it has been elevated by subterranean causes. The time re- quired for the forming of these can hardly be estimated. " The rock is as hard as that at Bellows Falls, where it is rare to find pot holes more than three feet deep; and yet those falls have been in operation from a period long an- terior to the creation of man."
MINERALS.
As might be expected in a formation like that of New Hampshire, minerals in great variety and abundance are found in almost every part of the state. These are val- uable generally rather for utility than for their rarity, and are consequently an important item in the wealth of the state ; while the mineralogist will find ample scope for in- vestigation and research. Some of the principal minerals found in this state are the following : -
GRANITE is, of the quarry stones, the most abundant, and is indeed so common that but little value is attached to it, though its value is now rapidly increasing with the increasing facilities for transportation. Excellent quarries are found in almost all parts of the state.
SIENITE, which is a building stone about equal to gran- ite, abounds in Durham, Moultonborough, and Sandwich.
GNEISS, which is very similar to granite, is extensively used in building on account of its splitting more easily in one direction than another.
MICA SLATE is composed of parallel layers of mica, in- termixed with fine granular quartz, and is highly valued, when it splits true, for certain economical purposes. It is scattered throughout the state, and most of the minerals occurring here are found in this rock.
457
MINERALS.
TALCOSE ROCK, or SOAPSTONE, is an invaluable material for certain purposes, being wrought into a great variety of useful articles. The principal quarries are in Francestown and Orford, the most valuable quarry in this country having been accidentally discovered in the former place in 1794.
ARGILLACEOUS SLATE is found on the borders of the Connecticut River, on the western, and at Portsmouth, Somersworth, and Bartlett, on the eastern side of the state. The compact variety has been wrought for tombstones in the north-west corner of Unity, in Claremont, at Dalton, Cornish Flat, and several other places.
GRANULAR QUARTZ, on account of the facility with which its grains may be separated by the crushing wheel, or even by the stones of a common gristmill, is used for sandpaper, polishing powder, and many other purposes of like charac ter ; also in the manufacture of common window glass It occurs most abundantly in Acworth, Unity, and Win- chester.
LIMESTONE is found in beds apparently inexhaustible, especially in Haverhill, Lisbon, and Lyme, where quarries have been wrought with great success.
NOVACULITE, or OILSTONE, is abundant in the town of Littleton, and of a very good quality. It is quarried and wrought extensively.
FELSPAR is one of the components of granite, and . abounds throughout the state, but is most easily obtained from the mica quarries of Alstead, Grafton, Springfield, - and Wilmot.
MICA abounds in the towns of Alstead and Grafton, where it is quarried extensively for the market.
FLUOR SPAR, used for etching on glass and on agate, occurs in Westmoreland and in Jackson.
39
458
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
SULPHATE OF BARYTES is found in Piermont in the specular iron ore.
BERYL is found in Grafton, Orange, and Danbury in its purest form, some of the crystals being almost equal, in transparency and brilliancy, to the diamond. The largest crystals are found in Acworth, but are distinguished rather for their size than their purity.
GARNET: - The principal locations of this mineral are Haverhill, Amherst, and Hanover.
BLACK LEAD, or GRAPHITE, is of considerable value, the most extensive and profitable mines being in Goshen and Antrim.
IRON. - The ores of this metal are scattered throughout the state; but the two most valuable localities, all things considered, are probably in Piermont and Bartlett.
ZINC. - An important vein of this metal occurs in Eaton.
COPPER. - The most important localities of copper ores are in Warren, Bath, and Unity.
LEAD. - The principal locations are in Eaton and Shel- burne, where it is also associated with silver in consider- able quantities.
TIN occurs in Jackson, its discovery a few years since being deemed of considerable importance, as the ore was before unknown in the United States.
SILVER is found in nearly all the lead ores of New Hampshire in sufficient quantity to warrant its extraction from the reduced lead, especially the ores of Eaton and Shelburne.
GOLD is found in very small quantities in Grafton and Canaan.
MOLYBDENUM occurs in great abundance in the town of Westmoreland.
459
SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.
MANGANESE is found in various parts of the state, es- pecially in Gilmanton, Grafton, Winchester, and Hins- dale.
CHROME is found in minute quantities in the soil of Dublin.
TITANIUM is a rare ore, but found comparatively abun- dant in Merrimack and Unity.
CADMIUM is found in all the ores of zinc, but most abun- dant in the black blende of Shelburne.
COBALT is found in Franconia, but is rare.
ARSENIC is very abundant, both native and in the state of arsenical pyrites. In Haverhill it is found in the former, and in Jackson, Epsom, and Dunbarton in the latter state.
TUNGSTEN is found in the tin ores of Jackson.
URANIUM occurs in Westmoreland, but is very rare.
It will be seen by the above list that New Hampshire has a remarkable variety of minerals, containing a greater number of metals than any other state in the Union. Iron, zinc, lead, copper, and silver are the most important, and the mining of these may yet become a leading branch of industry.
SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.
The soil of New Hampshire is not generally distin- guished for its fertility, though by patient industry it is made to yield very abundant and valuable products. As the soil is formed from the detritus of the rock, - the granite, in general, greatly predominating, - much labor is required for successful cultivation, though in the south- ern portions a lighter and more fertile soil is found upon the slate formations ; and upon the banks of the large riv- ers, as the Connecticut and the Merrimack, the alluvial de-
.
460
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
posit has formed some of the finest and most fertile meadow lands in the world. The peat bogs, which abound es- pecially in the towns of Dublin, Littleton, Northumber- land, Lancaster, Rochester, Warner, and Franklin, are of immense advantage to the farms upon which they are found. Many of these by draining become excellent grass meadows, while all furnish an almost inexhaustible supply for enriching the upland fields. It is to be hoped that greater attention will be given to this subject, leading to an analysis of such accumulations wherever found, and to a more general use of this natural deposit, which, being composed of vegetable matter, partially disorganized and decomposed, becomes, when mingled with lime, a valuable fertilizing agent.
Agriculture is the leading pursuit of the people of New Hampshire, and most of the products common to the lati- tude are successfully cultivated. Wheat, Indian corn, oats, rye, &c., are raised in large quantities. The most common fruits are apples, pears, plums, and cherries. Peaches are also raised to some extent in the southern part of the state.
Some of the principal forest trees are the birch, beach, chestnut, sugar or rock maple, oak, hemlock, pine, cedar, and spruce. A part of these are used for building pur- poses and cabinet work ; others are chiefly valuable for fuel. A variety of the maple, called birdseye maple, is much prized for its beauty. The white pine is still abundant, though vast quantities of it have already been sent to the market. The largest and best of these trees are used for the masts of vessels. From the rock maple large quantities of sugar are made annually.
461
LAKES.
LAKES.
CONNECTICUT LAKE, the principal source of Connecticut River, is situated in the ungranted land in the northern part of the state. It is about five and a half miles in length and two and a half in width. A few miles above this is a smaller body of water, commonly called the Sec- ond Lake, and still farther north is the Third Lake. The latter is about five miles from Canada line.
OSSIPEE LAKE is situated in the townships of Ossipee and Effingham. It is of an oval form, having an area of about 7000 acres. Its waters are clear and beautiful. The scenery in the vicinity is remarkably fine. The Ossi- pee Indians are supposed to have had their head quarters in the neighborhood of this lake.
SQUAM LAKE, in Holderness, Sandwich, Moultonbor- ough, and Centre Harbor, is described as " a splendid sheet of water, indented by points, arched with coves, and stud- ded with a succession of romantic islands." Its length is about six miles ; its greatest width about three. Its area . is estimated at from 6000 to 7000 acres. Its waters are discharged into the Merrimack by Squam River.
SUNAPEE LAKE borders on New London, Newbury, and Sunapee. It is about nine and a half miles in length, and from one half to one and one half miles in width. Its outlet is Sugar River, which empties into the Connecticut. It was once contemplated to unite the Connecticut and Merrimack Rivers by a canal passing from the mouth of Sugar River to the head waters of the Contoocook. A sur- vey was made in 1816, by which it was found that this lake is 820 feet above the level of the sea, and consequently that the proposed canal was impracticable. This lake is 39 *
&
462
NEW HAMPSHIRE AS IT IS.
situated so near the height of land that a slight excavation would carry its waters to the Merrimack.
UMBAGOG LAKE is situated partly in Maine and partly in the township of Errol. Its form is quite irregular. Its outlet is the Androscoggin River.
WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. - This is the largest body of wa- ter in New Hampshire. It is situated in Belknap and Carroll counties, environed by the pleasant towns of Moul- tonborough, Tuftonborough, Wolfborough, Centre Harbor, Meredith, Gilford, and Alton. Its form is irregular. At the west end are three large bays; on the north is a fourth, and at the east end are three others. The greatest length is about 25 miles ; the width varies from one to ten. Its height above the level of the sea is 472 feet. Its out- let is the river of the same name. In the summer, steam- boats, sloops, and smaller vessels navigate its waters, and in the winter it presents a beautiful icy expanse. The Indian name - Winnipiseogee - is said to mean "the smile of the Great Spirit." Doubtless the aborigines were not insensible to the charms of Nature, here so profusely exhibited. The waters of the lake are clear and pellucid, and in some places of great depth. Its surface is studded with islands, which, like those of Lake George and Casco Bay, are said to be three hundred and sixty-five in number. Some of them are of considerable size, and possess soil of great fertility.
The facility with which this beautiful lake is reached by the various routes from the large cities on the sea coast causes it to be much frequented during the summer months. Steamboats connecting with the railroads ply regularly be- tween the principal places bordering upon it. The follow- ing extract, from a description written many years since by Dr. Dwight, may not be uninteresting : --
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