USA > New Hampshire > The Connecticut River Valley in southern Vermont and New Hampshire; historical sketches > Part 4
USA > Vermont > The Connecticut River Valley in southern Vermont and New Hampshire; historical sketches > Part 4
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20
An interesting account of these Indian faces is given in Hall's "History of Eastern Vermont," dated about 1848. This was accompanied by illustrations showing how these faces looked before the action of man and the elements had combined to render them less distinct. This account says :
54
The Connecticut River Valley
"The picture writing of the Indians, which is to be seen in two localities in eastern Vermont, affords satis- factory evidence of the fact that certain tribes were accustomed to frequent the Connecticut and the streams connected with it, even though they were not actual residents of the pleasant banks within which those waters were confined.
"At the foot of Bellows Falls, and on the west side of the channel of the Connecticut are two rocks, on which are inscribed figures, the meaning of which it is difficult to determine. The larger rock presents a group of variously ornamented heads. The surface which these heads occupy is about six feet in height and 15 feet in breadth. Prominent among the rest is the figure occupy- ing nearly a central position in the group. From its head, which is supported by a neck and shoulders, six rays or feathers extend, which may be regarded as em- blems of excellence or power. Four of the other heads are adorned each with a pair of similar projections. On a separate rock situated a short distance from the main group, a single head is sculptured, which is finished with rays or feathers and was probably intended to designate an Indian chief. The length of the head, exclusive of the rays, is 14 inches and its breadth across the forehead in its widest part is ten inches. These sculpturings seem to have been intended to commemorate some event in which a chief and a number of his tribe performed some noted exploit or met with some disaster. The former supposition is undoubtedly the more correct. It is well known that the Indians were usually careful to conceal the traces of their misfortunes and eager to publish the evidence of their successes.
"The rocks are situated about eight rods south of the bridge for common travel across the Falls. That on which the group is pictured is during much of the time under water. The other, which is farther from the river, is not so much affected by the wash of the stream. Whenever a freshet occurs both are covered."
55
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
The illustrations in Hall's volume showing the images on the rock, are accompanied by a cut showing a general view of the falls and toll bridge. The picture was made evidently between the time of the building of the Cheshire railroad to the other side of the river and before the bridge was built so the cars came into Bellows Falls. Only the toll bridge is shown and "a train on the Sullivan railroad is seen passing upon the other side of the river."
In his travels through the northern part of the United States in the years 1807 and 1808, ''Edward Augustus Kendall, Esq., referred to the sculptures at Bellows Falls and endeavored to prove by them that the characters on the rock at Dighton, Mass. (or the "Writ- ing Rock on Taunton River," as he designated it) were inscribed by the Indians. He gave an interesting de- scription of the hieroglyphics comparing the similar characteristics of the two. Among other things he says, "In more than one of the heads sculptured at the Great Falls we see an exact similitude to the heads sculptured on the Writing Rock and particularly in the circum- stances that a single dot or hollow is made to serve both for nose and mouth ; that no ears are given to the human heads, and that the crowns of the heads are bare. Thus we ascertain that in the sculptures observed upon the Writing Rock there is the strictest similitude, in work- manship and drawing, to those observed upon the rocks at the Great Falls. Thus all questions are answered, except those that regard the nature of the tool by the edge of which the rocks have been wrought upon and the occasions upon which the figures have been wrought. With respect to the nature of the tool every difficulty
56
The Connecticut River Valley
would be dismissed by supposing that the sculptures were not wrought till after the introduction of iron by the Europeans; but there appear to be good reasons for thinking them more ancient, and we shall, therefore, in all probability be compelled to believe that the tool was of no better material than stone."
57
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
A BIRD'S FOOTPRINT IN ROCK AT THE FALLS
Until about the beginning of the 19th century, a natural curiosity in a rock at Bellows Falls excited interest in scientific circles of the country. Near the head of the canal, upon the point of rock extending into the Connecticut river, between the canal and the foundation of the present Sullivan railroad bridge, there was the clearly defined footprint of a huge bird of some unknown species. It was described as an exact reproduction of an exaggerated hen's track and meas- ured five feet in length. It had an appearance like that of a bird stepping into a plastic substance, as of the rock when in its formative stage, and ever thereafter remaining as left by the imprint of the foot. It was in a particularly hard specimen of gneiss rock, which at that point was in layers of about one foot thick. For many years this curiosity attracted the interest of visi- tors, travelers and scientists. It was described in dif- ferent publications of the day, and strangers coming here frequently requested to be guided to its location as one of the attractions of the place. About the year 1800, the faculty of Dartmouth College arranged to secure the curiosity for their museum. A time was set for the removal to Hanover of the section of stone in which it was embedded. Some unappreciative and jeal- ous persons, learning of the plan to remove it, a day or two before the proposed visit blew the interesting speci- men into fragments with powder, rather than have it taken from this vicinity.
58
The Connecticut River Valley
ENGLISH SCOUTING PARTIES IN THE CON- NECTICUT VALLEY WERE PAID FOR INDIAN SCALPS
It is not generally known at the present day, and history of the past seldom makes mention of the fact, that during several years of the conflict between the Indians of this locality and the white men, bounties were offered, and paid, by the governments of both France and England for the scalps of Indians. The barbarous act of scalping by the Indians of their white victims is frequently referred to, but for a period of 13 years previous to the termination of the war between England and France in 1763 the French in Canada, by offering bounties for captives and white men's scalps, incited the natural cupidity of the St. Francis tribe to more than their usual activity in harassing the English settlers in this section of New England.
On the other hand the records of the province of Massachusetts show that in 1765 the governor of that province, with authority from King George the 2nd, offered and paid a bounty of thirty pounds, nearly $150, for every Indian scalp. This bounty was in 1748 in- creased to 100 pounds, to be divided in equal parts among the officers and soldiers of any scouting party that might capture an Indian, or produce the scalp of one they had killed. The price was paid only upon the delivery of the captives or their scalps in Boston. The effect of these bounties upon both sides was to stimulate the opposing forces to deeds of the greatest cruelty and barbarity.
59
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
Scouting parties were organized and sent out by both sides to lay in ambush for the others, and secure as many scalps as possible. Authentic records are not available from the French side to show the results, but those of the English side, which were nearer to our vicinity, and so of greater interest to us, are on file now in Boston. They show that each party hunted through this territory up and down the Connecticut river for scalps of the red men. They were required to keep daily records of their marches and observations, many of them being unique and thrilling. The official records show many references to the "Great Falls" and to the "Great Mountain by ye Great Falls," referring to the falls and what is now called "Mount Kilburn" opposite this village. The mountain was an important point at which watches were kept and all movements of the enemy noted.
The main path by the falls here was upon the New Hampshire side of the river along the base of the moun- tain, and not upon this side of the river. The trails up the Williams river, Black river and White river, which were the principal highways to and from Lake Cham- plain, were frequently described in the records, and make very interesting reading to those interested in this local- ity. They frequently describe details of deadly encount- ers, resulting in great suffering, and showing great hard- ships endured by the scouting parties. In addition to the mountain here, the records describe experiences on Wan- tastiquet at Brattleboro, and Ascutney at Windsor, as being important points. They "lodged on ye top" and "viewed for smoaks" of the hostile camp fires.
60
The Connecticut River Valley
The wages allowed are thus stated. "One Captain to have 25 shillings per month, one Lieutenant to have 13s. 6d. per month; One Sergeant to have 13s. 6d. per month; one Corporal 12s. per month, and 16 Centinels to have each 10s. per month; and each of the 20 men be allowed 8s. for providing themselves with provisions."
Among the voluminous records, the following is a good sample :
"Thursday. We travailed upon ye great River within two miles of ye Great Falls in said River, then we went upon Land to the Black River above ye Great Falls, went up that River and lodged about a mile and a half from the mouth of Black River, which days travail we judged was about ten miles.
"Fryday. We cross Black River at ye falls (now Springfield village) afterwards travail through ye woods N. N. W. then cross Black River again.
"Sabbath Day. Soon after we began our days work, an old pregnant squaw that travailed with us, stopt alone and was delivered of a child, and by Monday overtook us with a living child upon her back."
61
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
THE LAST ABENAQUI CHIEF AT BELLOWS FALLS
During the period of years just previous to the coming of the white settlers in 1753 to the vicinity of what was then known as the "Great Falls," now Bellows Falls, in the Connecticut river, large numbers of the tribe of Indians known as the "Abenaquis" had come here from their northern homes in the spring of each year because of the excellent fishing below and in the falls. Their stay here was only temporary, there being no history of permanent Indian settlements in this immediate vicinity.
During all the first half of the last century small parties of more civilized and peaceable Abenaqui Indians used to visit Bellows Falls nearly every summer, coming from their homes in Canada and New York state. They came down the Connecticut in their canoes, usually bringing supplies of baskets and other trinkets which they had manufactured during the previous winters, which they sold to citizens of Bellows Falls and to the then large number of summer visitors. They usually encamped on Pine hill, which was north of the village and extended as far north as the residence of the late F. E. Proctor at the extreme north end of Green street. Sometimes they built their wigwams on the beach south of the falls, at times on the Vermont side, at others on the New Hampshire side. The men spent much time fishing in the river and hunting on the hills on both sides of the river, while the squaws carried on the mer- cantile branch of their business.
62
The Connecticut River Valley
The last remnant of this tribe came to Bellows Falls early in the summer, about 1856, in their birchbark canoes. The party consisted of a chief, who was very old and infirm, a young wife and their sons, one about twenty and the other about nine years old, and others. On the occasion of this last visit they made their camp on Levi Chapin's meadow a short distance above the dam and near the mouth of "Governor's brook," where now stands a part of the village of North Walpole. They built their wigwams in true Indian fashion, of poles, covering them with bark and the skins of wild animals, and during the whole summer the place was of much interest to all in this vicinity. Residents of 25 years ago well remembered them and the interest which all took in them.
The older son spoke good English and was a manly appearing youth. He was an expert in the use of his rifle and shot gun and collected considerable money from visitors by giving exhibitions of his marksmanship. The little boy was a shy, bare-headed, bushy-haired little savage. The chief himself was very intelligent and con- versed interestingly with his visitors. He had fought with the English in different wars and gave many start- ling incidents connected with his early life and wild mode of living. He had been to England three times and he wore a large silver medal presented to him by King George III in acknowledgment of his services. He was very proud of this, and lost no opportunity to exhibit it to his callers. It bore the king's profile in relief and an appropriate inscription.
Levi Chapin, who was at that time the principal resident of North Walpole, at one time asked if he be-
63
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
lieved that all the races of men sprang from Adam. With great dignity and deliberation as well as dramatic eloquence he pointed to Mt. Kilburn, saying, "You see yonder mountain-you find the bear there, you find the wild cat there, you find the deer there, you find the In- dian there," indicating in this way his belief that the Great Spirit had created the Indian with the other wild creatures to inhabit the mountains from which the white man had driven them.
Late in the season the weather grew cold and the party prepared to return to Canada before the river was frozen over, but the old chief wished to die beside the "Great Falls," and be buried with his fathers. After long continued discussion his wife left him in his wigwam with his two sons, and went north with others of the party. The wigwam was removed to the higher ground near River Street about opposite the former location of Taylor's livery stable.
As the weather grew colder the skins with which the hut was covered gave poor shelter from the late autumn storms. Mr. Chapin and other residents took much interest in the old warrior and carried him food and bedding. Mr. Chapin arranged with the Walpole selectmen and overseer of the poor, George Huntington, to send some lumber with which to construct a suitable shelter. This, however, was never built for the night after the materials were brought the old chief died.
In his last hour he called his elder son to his side and with his finger on his wrist showed how his pulse beat slowly and unsteadily. "I'm going to the Great Spirit," he said, feebly. He gave to his son the medal and the old rifle he had carried in the wars and charged
64
The Connecticut River Valley
him to wear the one and keep the other as long as he should live. Funeral services were held at the house of Levi Chapin, Rev. John M. Stow, pastor of the Con- gregational church at Walpole, officiating, and this last local representative of the original tribe of Abenaqui Indians was buried in what was then the Rockingham Town burying-ground, now known as Restland cemetery, on the terraces in the west part of the village of Bellows Falls. No stone was erected to mark the spot, and the old representative of the proud tribe of Abenaquis rests in a grave the location of which cannot be pointed out.
65
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
EARLIEST SETTLEMENTS IN ROCKINGHAM AND SURROUNDING TOWNS
Present residents in this section of the Connecticut river valley, and especially the younger generation, are not appreciative of how comparatively young this entire section of New England is, barely 175 years since it was an almost unbroken wilderness with no white people living here. Nor is there record of any permanent habi- tations of Indians for many miles north or south. The beginnings of things are always interesting, and particu- larly early settlements.
Previous to the coming into these immediately con- tiguous river towns of actual and permanent settlers this had been debatable ground between the French on the north and English on the south. The last war between these two countries was declared by France against Great Britain on March 15, 1744, and the earliest be- ginnings of settlements in these towns were as follows:
In Westminster, which had been chartered by Massa- chusetts Bay province a few years earlier, Richard Ellis and his son, Reuben, 1739, built a log hut and cleared and cultivated five or six acres of land in the new township on the river meadows. In 1751, John Averill, wife and son, Asa, William Gould, wife and son, John, Amos Carpenter and wife, and Atherton Chaffee removed from Northfield, Mass., to Westminster, which was then known as "Township No. 1."
In Westmoreland on the east side of the river, in 1742 and 1743, Daniel How, Thomas Crisson and others from Rutland, Mass., made a clearing and built huts, that then being designated as "Township No. 2." The
66
The Connecticut River Valley
township was regranted under the name of Westmoreland February 12, 1752, and at that time there were among the grantees about 20 residents of Northfield, although hardly any of them ever became residents of the new town.
In 1740 John Kilburn started from Weathersfield, Conn., and stopped at Northfield, Mass., until the next year, when he came to Walpole and became the first settler in that town, being named in 1753 as one of the grantees of Rockingham, with Gen. Benjamin Bellows, who, with his family, made the second settler of Walpole. John Kilburn was a noted Indian fighter and bravely defended his cabin on the meadow just south of Bellows Falls, located at Walpole.
Charleston, N. H., early known as "Fort No. 4," had as its first settlers three families by the name of Farnsworth from Lunenburg, Mass., in 1740. They were joined later by Isaac Parker from Groton, Mass., John Spafford, Capt. Phinehas Stevens and others. In 1743 they built the first corn mill, and the first saw mill in all this locality, to which for many years settlers from many miles north and south brought their corn to be ground. Capt. Stevens was many years the commander of the fort located here, which was the scene of many fierce attacks by the Indians. Commodore Sir Charles Knowles of the English navy presented to Capt. Stevens an elegant sword in honor of his victories. In 1753 the town was chartered by the name of Charlestown in honor of Sir Charles.
In Rockingham, Vt., the first settlers are recorded as coming here in 1753. They were Moses Wright, Jona- than Bigelow and Simeon Knight, at least two of them
67
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
from Northfield, Mass., but they were obliged to return within a few months through fear of the Indians and French. No others were known to have lived here until about 1760 or 1761.
A treaty of peace betweeen England and France was signed in Paris February 10, 1763, and from that time dates the rapid settlement of all this section of the valley, and the beginning of opportunities for the bless- ings now enjoyed so fully after only one and three- quarters centuries.
68
The Connecticut River Valley
THE EARLIEST EVENTS OF IMPORTANCE TO BELLOWS FALLS AND VICINITY
Among the earliest things which were of interest to this town and residents of this section of the Connecticut river valley in connection with its early settlement were the following incidents :
1704, March 5 .- First Protestant Christian sermon ever preached in territory which afterward became Ver- mont, at the mouth of. Williams river in Rockingham, by Rev. John Williams, an Indian captive from Deerfield, Mass. From this the river has its name.
1735, January 15 .- First charter granted to Rock- ingham under authority of King George II, by the Province of Massachusetts Bay to Palmer Goulding and fifty-nine others. The name of the township under this charter was "Goldenstown."
1752, December 28 .- Second charter of Rockingham, under which present titles hold, granted under authority of King George II, by the Province of New Hampshire to Samuel Johnson and fifty-eight others.
1753, March 28 .- First meeting of the "grantees" or "Proprietors" of the township held.
1753, "In the Spring."-First three settlers, Moses Wright, Jonathan Bigelow and Simeon Knight came to town. They returned to Northfield, Mass., "within a few months, driven back by the Indians."
1760, July 17 .- The proprietors voted to assist Michael Lovell in building the first saw-mill.
69
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
1761, "Last Wednesday of March."-First town meeting held. Rev. Andrew Gardner moderator and Moses Wright town clerk.
1770, March 28 .- Town voted its first salary to the town minister: "Seventeen bushels of Indian corn be Delivered to the Rev'd Anderew Gardner by the Over- seears out of the Rent that Nath1] Davis owes the Town."
1771 .- First census taken showing "225 souls" in town.
1773, August 25 .- Voted to build a small meeting- house. Its size was to be thirty-five by twenty-five feet,- "till the town be able to Build a Larger."
1773, October 27 .- First church in town organized, and Mr. Samuel Whiting ordained as its first pastor.
1774, December 12 .- Town meeting held for the first time in the new meeting house. They had been held in taverns and private houses until this date.
1775, March 12 .- "About 40 good, true men" of Rockingham marched in a body to Chester to dissuade Judge Chandler from holding court in Westminster the following Tuesday.
1775, March 13 .- From sixty-five to one hundred Rockingham citizens marched to Westminster and took part in the "Westminster Massacre."
1785 .- First toll bridge across the Connecticut river built by Col. Enoch Hale. It was the only bridge across the river at any point until 1796.
1791 .- Second census of the town taken, showing 1235 inhabitants.
70
The Connecticut River Valley
1792 .- Work upon the building of the Bellows Falls Canal commenced. It was chartered the year before. It was finished in August, 1802.
1798 .- The second church in town (Immanuel) or- ganized. It held its services in the present old meeting- house in Rockingham village until 1816, when it was moved to Bellows Falls, and the same organization is functioning today.
1801, January 1 .- First post office in town estab- lished at Rockingham village, with "Roswald" Bellows as postmaster.
1801, April 1 .- First post office established at Bel- lows Falls, with Dr. William Page, postmaster. He was one of the two charter members of the Bellows Falls Canal Co., and Great-grandfather of the late Governor Page of Rutland
1802 .- First paper mill in Bellows Falls established by Bill Blake. He built one in Alstead, N. H., three years earlier.
1809, February 4 .- Rev. Samuel Whiting, first town minister resigned after thirty-six years of service.
1812, May 12 .- First great conflagration in Bellows Falls, with a loss exceeding $40,000.
1817, January 1 .- First newspaper established in Bellows Falls, "Vermont Intelligencer and Bellows Falls Advertiser," owned by Bill Blake & Co., edited by Thomas Green Fessenden.
1817, February 16 .- First Masonic meeting held in town.
71
Southern Vermont and New Hampshire
1819 .- First church bell in town presented by Gen. Amasa Allen to Immanuel church, and the village of Bellows Falls, the same in use now, cast by Paul Revere & Sons.
1824 .- There were only 58 buildings of all kinds in Bellows Falls and North Walpole, including barns and out-houses.
72
The Connecticut River Valley
COURT HOUSE AND JAIL AT CHESTER FOR CUMBERLAND COUNTY
In the neighboring village of Chester, in the section known as "Factoryville," stands a small stone marker near the residence of F. P. Burbank which indicates the location of the first court house and jail erected in what in later years became the State of Vermont. The cir- cumstances of its being built, and its use, form a most interesting story of the primitive conditions surround- ing the lives of the earliest settlers in this region. The spot was not marked until 1909, but the location of the building has always been a matter of record.
Previous to 1765 the few straggling settlers that had come to this section of New England had been obliged to go to Albany, N. Y., about 150 miles distant, for all court matters, which with the lack of roads was a serious matter. Early in that year a petition was made to Governor Colden of New York for the establishment of counties in the territory between the provinces of New York and New Hampshire. In 1766 the Provincial Legislature of New York erected a county comprising nearly the same territory now contained in the counties of Windham and Orange. They named it Cumberland County, and it was the first county to be formed in the territory which afterward became the State of Vermont. It was probably named for Prince William, the Duke of Cumberland, who in 1746 met with distinguished success in opposing the rebels in Scotland. The shire town of this new county was located at New Flamstead, the name later changed to Chester.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.