USA > New Hampshire > To Monadnock; the records of a mountain in New Hampshire through three centuries > Part 14
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When the towns of Dublin and Jaffrey were settled, about 1750, under charters from the Masonian Proprietors, there were 1,300 acres on the Mountain, 800 in Dublin and 500 in Jaffrey, that were never permanently allotted in farms. These lands by terms common in all charters from the Masonian Proprietors remained in the hands of the Proprietors if not actually occupied. When the descendants of the Proprietors came to the Society they brought a letter from the late Judge A. S. Batchellor, of Littleton, pointing out that ownership in these lands inheres in the descendants of the Masonian Pro- prietors.
The Society was requested to take an interest in the matter and accept title to these lands, because certain encroachments were being made by private owners upon wild land that had never been occupied and to which it was felt private owners had no claim. A record of title was presented to the Society, to- gether with a request that it take action. These were carefully examined, and after securing competent legal advice, the Society accepted the trust of keeping intact as far as possible the wild land on Monadnock Mountain, free and open to the public as it has been since the settlement of the country. The Society agrees never to cut any timber on this high mountain tract, but to protect it from fire, insects and fungus disease.
The Society employed a person familiar with genealogical
245
TO MONADNOCK
research to seek out the living descendants of the original Masonian Proprietors. There were fifteen shares owned by twelve Proprietors in 1746, but these divided up their shares within the following four years, in order that no person should own more than one share. In 1750 the shares were owned by twenty-one persons. In 1846 when the last meeting of the Proprietors was held, action of previous meetings was confirmed by which ownership in the wild land still remaining to the Proprietors was held to belong to the descendants of the original holders of the fifteen shares equally, their heirs and assigns for- ever.
A most painstaking and careful search revealed 121 legal or lineal descendants of the Masonian Proprietors, 89 of whom signed deeds conveying their undivided interests to the Society for Protection of New Hampshire Forests. There has been general and most cordial co-operation with the Society in its attempt to save, for the free use of all who love Monadnock Mountain, its original public ownership. The Society lost the title to the 100 acres along the Farmer or Dublin Trail that it hoped to save, but the court confirmed its title to the remaining wild land on the Mountain, and the Society entered into pos- session of 650 acres. Its boundaries were afterwards adjusted by quit-claim deeds with abutting owners. This reservation includes the summit of the Mountain.
The deeds of the Masonian Reservation were filed December 10, 1913.
II
Abbott H. Thayer, the distinguished artist, with his son, Gerald H. Thayer, took the lead in securing this reservation from the descendants of the Masonian Proprietors. The fol- lowing letter from the artist to the Society for Protection of New Hampshire Forests was published in the Twelfth Report of the Society (1913-14).
I deeply longed to tell you foresters how much it touches my
246
THE MASONIAN RESERVATION, 1913-
heart to have you begin to take under your strong protection the element of wild reservations. This element is more my job than yours, yet only by your strong help could it be cared for. By saving for posterity a few examples, at least, of the swiftly disappearing element of terra incognita, you are building even better for our successors than we can possibly know. Mr. Bryce said that he trembled for humanity when the last unknown land should have been conquered and mapped. Its swift melting away is putting an ever higher premium upon the soul-refresh- ing power of untouched mountain-tops, because, after the ocean, they are the feature of our world best fitted to defy civilization's inevitable accompaniment of vulgarization, and consequently, after the sea, the one toward which man's inextinguishable adventure-thirst will lead him in his search for an ever more and more needed brain refreshment.
Add to this a consideration absolutely in the field of the sternest forestry, viz., what von Berlepsch is showing and Germany practicing, that since the world's insect hordes are the forests' main enemy aside from fungi, the principal destroyers of this enemy, the birds, must have every possible aid and induce- ment, in the shape of dead trees and underbrush, to breed and abound in these woods. If one could remove all the birds for one day from any summer grove, he would find it noticeably swarming with insects on the very next day, and eaten bare before many more.
Monadnock, N. H.
A. H. THAYER.
In the long, long run of a people the esthetic becomes a stern necessity.
247
THE DERBY WOODS ON MONADNOCK, 1917
In 1917 the Society for Protection of New Hampshire Forests came into possession of another tract of land, of 125 acres, immediately adjoining the Masonian Reservation to the north- east. This tract, known as the Derby Woods on Monadnock, 'was the gift of a brother and sister, Samuel Carroll Derby and Emily Elizabeth Derby, the former Professor of Latin at Ohio State University (1881-1921). The donors' title to this property was by inheritance from their grandfather, Samuel Derby, who came to Dublin as a boy about 1783. "He was an active, energetic man," so the History of Dublin records, "and often at harvest time when the moon favored," worked in his fields all night. The deed of gift of the grandchildren of this pioneer is given in part below.
Know all men by these presents: that we, Emily E. Derby, of Dublin, in the County of Cheshire and State of New Hamp- shire, and Samuel C. Derby, of Columbus, in the County of Franklin and State of Ohio, for and in consideration of the sum of one and more dollars to us in hand before the delivery hereof, well and truly paid by the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests, a corporation duly organized and owning property in the State of New Hampshire, the receipt whereof we do hereby acknowledge, have given, granted, bar- gained, sold, and by these presents do give, grant, bargain, sell, alien, enfeoff, convey and confirm unto the said grantee and its successors and assigns forever, a certain tract of land situated in Dublin aforesaid and being lot No. 13 in the 2nd range of lots, except five acres laid off in the northern part of said lot, . . upon the express condition that said Society will hold the same in trust for the public good under the following terms and condi- tions :
1. That said property shall be known and described as "The Derby Woods on Monadnock."
2. All property hereby conveyed to the Society shall be held
248
THE DERBY WOODS, 1917
by it for the public use and benefit, subject only to the right of the Society to sell off any portion of the timber standing on said tract which in its judgment shall not be necessary for preserving the scenic attractions of Monadnock Mountain, in which case all sums derived from such sales, less any expenses thereof, shall be employed in caring for and improving said property for the public benefit or in buying additional tracts of land or the growth thereon, as may be determined by the Society, to be held in connection with the foregoing tract upon the same trusts as herein declared.
3. Said Society shall have the right to discharge itself of the trusts hereby created, by conveying said property to the State of New Hampshire upon terms satisfactory to the Society whereby the perpetual care and preservation thereof for the public use and benefit shall be secured.
4. The Executive Committee of said Society shall have full authority to take any action which to them seems proper in the execution of this trust, or in discharging the Society of the same by conveyance to the State of New Hampshire as above pro- vided, and shall have authority to act for and on behalf of the Society in any matter relating to said trust .. .
Witness our hands and seals this 20th day of January, Anno Domini one thousand, nine hundred and seventeen. . .
249
AN ARTIST AND MONADNOCK (to 1919) I
In 1917 the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York purchased through the Hearn Fund a canvas signed by Abbott H. Thayer and named "Monadnock." The Museum catalogue gives this description of the painting: "A view from the artist's house in New Hampshire. The blue-purple mountain fills almost the entire picture. Snow-patches on the summit show orange, in the setting sun; and its base is hidden by a grove of hemlock trees. Snow in the foreground."
II
In 1919, among a group of fifty pictures gathered for the Thayer Exhibition held from April 24 to June 30 at the Carnegie Institute in Pittsburgh, were two which had for their subject Monadnock. The earlier, dated 1897, was entitled "A Sketch of Monadnock Mountain" and was loaned for the exhi- bition by Miss Mary A. Greene. The second, "Winter Dawn on Monadnock" (1918), was loaned from the Smithsonian Institution (Freer Collection).
III
Of Abbott Thayer's work in general George de Forest Brush, his fellow-artist at Dublin and lifelong friend has said : "Abbott Thayer stands alone in these times in the expression of the countenance, and his best examples rank him among the Masters. When his work shall be gathered in after years, it will be not only a satisfaction to the public, but a support to all younger artists of integrity who are moved by repose and nobility
250
A SIMILARITY [1920]
rather than by the popular idea of originality. There is nobody who has painted such touching looks." From Mr. Thayer's careful researches in the field of natural protective coloration grew not only the book written by his son, Gerald H. Thayer. Concealing-Coloration in the Animal Kingdom (1909), but the whole idea of camouflage as used in the World War. Of Abbott Thayer's active help in saving "unappropriated, for modesty and reverence's sake" a mountain-top in New Hamp- shire, something has already been said. "At Dublin, which he seldom leaves," wrote H. M. B. in 1919,* "he spends hours at a time alone on the Mountain or in his canoe on the lake."
A SIMILARITY [1920]
William Copeman Kitchin, late Professor of French in the University of Vermont, saw Monadnock once from Toy Town Tavern in Winchendon, Massachusetts. "The noblest-appear- ing peak south of the White Mountains," he calls it,t "whose graceful cone seems a reduced fac-simile of Japan's sacred moun- tain, Fujiyama."
*In a little memoir prefacing the Thayer Exhibition cata- logue published by the Carnegie Institute.
+In A Wonderland of the East, published in 1920 by L. C. Page & Company of Boston.
251
MONADNOCK THROUGH THE TREES [1921]
By Edwin Arlington Robinson. This sonnet is published by courtesy of The Outlook in whose pages it first appeared (1921), and by arrangement with the MacMillan Company, publishers of Mr. Robinson's collected Poems. Mr. Robinson's studio at the MacDowell Colony at Peterborough, where he has spent many summers, is said to have Monadnock "at its door."
Before there was in Egypt any sound Of those who reared a more prodigious means For the self-heavy sleep of kings and queens That hitherto had mocked the most renowned,- Unvisioned here and waiting to be found, Alone, amid remote and older scenes, You loomed above ancestral evergreens Before there were the first of us around.
And when the last of us, if we know how, See farther from ourselves than we do now, Assured with other sight than heretofore That we have done our mortal best and worst,- Your calm will be the same as when the first Assyrians went howling south to war.
252
Photograph by Mr. C. T. Johnson, Jaffrey, N. H.
THE END OF MEMORIAL ROAD
A MEMORIAL ROADWAY, 1922
On the first day of September, 1922, Mr. and Mrs. Joel H. Poole of Jaffrey made over to the State of New Hampshire a certain tract of land two rods in width extending from the high- way to Monadnock State Forest. Over this strip, eight-tenths of a mile long, runs a road built by Mr. Poole in memory of his son. Mr. Arthur E. Poole until his death in 1912 was custodian of Monadnock State Forest, and before that had worked for its establishment. This beautiful tribute to his memory is known as "Memorial Road."
253
ON MONADNOCK IN STORM [1922]
From The Heart of Monadnock (1922) by Elizabeth Westyn Timlow, through the courtesy of B. J. Brimmer Company, publishers, of Boston.
As he swung over the crest and faced south, he noted with surprise the changed aspect in that direction. Seeing only to the clear north and northeast as he had been doing the last two hours or so, with the wall of Monadnock lifting itself behind him, he had not noticed how the heavens to the west and south had utterly changed. . . Three distinct thunder-storms were visible, with blue sky between them: over Stratton, the rain was already a deluge and that horizon was blotted out; further south he could see the little village of Troy over which were already gathered deep indigo shadows, and heavy storm clouds massed magnificently above; directly south, over Fitzwilliam, the third storm was pouring out its flood and he could see the lightning rend the clouds. Yet Monadnock and all its near foreground was still embraced by a strangely golden light in which every minutest object was miraculously clear. . .
The strange light grew more and more eerie,-sunshine over- head, for the sun still rode in the last unclouded bit of blue. The atmosphere became more deeply, malevolently purple. The whole sweep of the horizon was now lost in the blurring torrents of rain that came marching forward, with their vans distinctly marked. The side of each storm was cut as if with a sharp knife. The immediate foreground still caught and flung defi- antly the sunshine against the encroaching violet. The air was deathly quiet with the hushed, affrighted silence of nature in the face of a storm; every small winged thing had vanished; not even a blade of mountain grass so much as stirred. Then sud- denly up from the gorge north of Monte Rosa a slight motion
254
ON MONADNOCK IN STORM [1922]
just agitated the forest leaves which had been presenting white, frightened under-surfaces to the sky. Involuntarily the spec- tator held his breath. For a moment there seemed to be nothing to breathe. . .
Little Troy, now engulfed in the rain, was as if it did not exist. Gap Mountain was hidden. The rushing clouds at last caught the sunlight from overhead and instantly dun gray settled over all the world ; nearer and nearer with a last devour- ing dash came the march of the rain from the direct west. He could see the downpour, still with a clean edge, come on like a consuming monster, swallowing everything in its path. The thunder was now continuous, muttering, rattling. A deep con- vulsive sigh came up the gorge as if nature cried, "At last !" Now came the curious slight scampering patter of the advance guard of drops on the quivering mat of leaves far below; a strange icy gust of wind cleft its way to the peak; a deluging rush up the rocky sides-and the storm was upon him. Stratton had beaten, but Troy and Fitzwilliam were barely a second behind. The world was blotted out. . .
The artilleries of the rival storms, now united at the peak, were incessant. Flash! crash! bang! Flash! crack! BANG! fireworks on a celestial scale darted and coruscated, and tore apart the clouds like golden rivers. The rain was not in drops but in curtains. In another two minutes torrents of water were boiling down the rocks in cataracts; what had been a tiny rivulet beyond him was incredibly a foot deep. . .
Minutes passed. . . No longer were the flashes and crashes simultaneous. Sullenly the storms withdraw in a solid phalanx on their way to the Atlantic, but the clouds still hung heavily around the summit and stretched down the sides. A glimmery effect as of phosphorescence shone through the clinging mist and he knew that beyond, to the west, the sun was again shining in
255
1
TO MONADNOCK
clean-washed blue, though he could see nothing but vague and towering shapes of cliffs close to him. A few last spattering drops of rain were now and then squeezed out of the thinning clouds-but the storm was over. And it was only twenty minutes since he had topped the crest.
IN NEW HAMPSHIRE
By Lord Dunsany, "dedicated to Mr. and Mrs. Charles Mac- Veagh." This poem was published April 22, 1922, in The Literary Review of the New York Evening Post. It appears here through the courtesy of The Literary Review and of Lord Dunsany.
Like a flame the maple blazes with the oak leaves: All in windless weather the huge apples fall. Sunset and twilight: birches haunt the evening, Walking in the wild woods slender and tall.
High above the splendor mightily Monadnoc Sleeps in starry spaces, dreaming of his reign, Long since a monarch holy to the Indians, Waiting for his people to come home again.
In thy starry spaces be at ease, Monadnoc, Many a busy city leaves no stone or track ;
All our wealth and progress have Egypt for a warning ; Over mossy girders the old folk come back.
256
%%
By courtesy of Society for Protection of New Hampshire Forests.
THE PUMPELLY TRAIL Two miles along the sky line of Monadnock.
THE MONADNOCK-SUNAPEE TRAIL, 1925
Almost directly north of Monadnock, in the "granite back- bone" of New Hampshire, is Mount Sunapee, not so high as Monadnock but within five hundred feet as high. Between Mount Sunapee and Monadnock now run forty miles of trail, completed in the early summer of 1925 by the Society for Protection of New Hampshire Forests. The Monadnock-Sun- apee Trail follows existing trails on the two mountains,-on Mount Sunapee, the new trail built by Ozora Davis (of Chicago University) and his volunteer helpers; on Monadnock, the Pumpelly Trail which for two miles "in and out among the rocks and small spruces" travels the ridge of the northeast spur. In between the two mountains, the Trail has searched out and follows wherever possible the dreaming old roads of an earlier New Hampshire, ancient highways sinking back now into forest greenness, yet with a smile out of the past to our own time. Except for Newbury (the township in which is Mount Sunapee), the Trail lies entirely within the old Monad- nock townships, five of which it enters, four of which it com- pletely traverses. In Nelson, old Monadnock No. 6, Mr. William Pearson of Keene, New Hampshire, and his business associates have given eleven acres on the summit of City Hill for a camping place on the Trail. Newly traced over old Monadnock highland with its one "surpassing mountain," this Trail, for a moment, is the last record in the centuries of Monadnock.
257
THE INDEXES
INDEX OF AUTHORS
PAGE
ANNETT, ALBERT: "Waste Land," 1787 51
BALLOU, HOSEA, 2D: On Monadnock in June 76
BALLOU, HOSEA STARR: A College President and Monadnock .... 174
BELKNAP, JEREMY: from the History of New Hampshire, 1792. . 52 BIGELOW, JACOB: Monadnock and a Botanical Tour, 1815. 65
BURTON, RICHARD: Two Mountains 220
CHADWICK, JOHN WHITE: Monadnock from Chesterfield. 209
CHANNING, WILLIAM ELLERY: Before History, Monadnock. 1
from Wachusett 108
Thoreau's Northwest Horizon, I. 111 Thoreau and Channing, 1860, IV 172 Mountain 183
CLEMENS, SAMUEL: see Mark Twain.
DAVIS, WILLIAM MORRIS: "Monadnock" Becomes a Common Noun
218
DEVENS,' SAMUEL ADAMS: see "Inexperienced Clergyman, An"
DOUGLASS, WILLIAM: Mountains and a Map, 1749. 38
Map, 1753 (?), facing. 39
DUNSANY, LORD: In New Hampshire. 256
DWIGHT, TIMOTHY: Monadnock is Seen to be Artistic, 1796- 56
ELLIOT, DANIEL: Monadnock at the Dublin Centennial, II 115
EMERSON, DEARBORN: The Stage of the Turnpike 62
EMERSON, EDWARD W .: The Monadnock Townships, 1749- 40
A New Hampshire Sermon 66
The Grand Monadnock 221
EMERSON, RALPH WALDO: Webster 75
The Sphinx 85
Monadnoc 95
178
Emerson at 63 and Monadnock .. . .. . Monadnock from Afar (two poems) .. 181
Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1910-11: "Monadnock" a Common
218 Noun
261
INDEX OF AUTHORS
PAGE
FAIRBANKS, LIEUT. JABEZ: The Western Frontier, 1723-5. 21
Fitchburg Sentinel: The Cheshire Railroad to Troy, 1847 108
FLINT, WILLIAM RUTHVEN : Wahnodnock. 233 Fox, MISS MARY BELLE: from A Poem read at the Jaffrey Cen- tennial 196
GROUT, JOHN: "That Mountain Land," 1769 46
HAWTHORNE, NATHANIEL: from The American Notebooks, 1838. 81
HAZZEN, RICHARD: The Massachusetts-New Hampshire Line, 1741
32
HEYWOOD, NATHAN: A Township Called Rowley Canada. 29
HIGGINSON, THOMAS WENTWORTH: "Glimpsewood," 1890. 216
HOLMES, CHARLES N .: Sunset on Monadnock. 234
HOLMES, OLIVER WENDELL: from The Poet at the Breakfast Table 193
HOWE, FRANCES S .: Summer Travels in a Phaeton
194
HUBBARD, WILLIAM: Map of New England, 1677
9
HUNT, COL. EPHRAIM: A Mutiny near Monadnock, 1707 17
"INEXPERIENCED CLERGYMAN, AN": Ascent of the Monadnock ... 77
JAFFREY, INHABITANTS OF: "Waste Land," 1787 51
JONES, MARY CHANDLER: Mount Monadnock and the Green Mountains 219
KELLOGG, CAPT. JOSEPH: The Western Frontier, 1723-5. 24
KIDDER, REUBEN: "That Mountain Land," 1769 47
KIPLING, RUDYARD: (a reference to his essay) 217
KITCHIN, WILLIAM COPEMAN: A Similarity. 251
LAWRANCE, ELEAZER: "Provided there be no Indian War" 44
LOWELL, JAMES RUSSELL : Appledore 110
from a letter of 1890 215
LYMAN, CALEB: "Mr. Caleb Lyman's Account of 8 Enemy Indians Killed by Himself and 5 Friend Indians" 13
MASON, CHARLES: The Second Great Fire. 69
Monadnock at the Dublin Centennial, III .. .
116
MASSACHUSETTS Court Records :
Fort Dummer, 1723. 20
Massachusetts Appeals to Con- necticut 21
Walpole, N. H., 1730.
28
262
INDEX OF AUTHORS
PAGE
MILLER, ELSIE KIBLING: Monadnoc.
109 MONADNOCK FORESTRY ASSOCIATION : Monadnock State Forest. . .
238
MONADNOCK No. 2: "That Mountain Land," 1769 47 MORSE, EBENEZER: Monadnock at the Dublin Centennial, I. 114
NESMITH, J. E .: Monadnoc 212
NEW HAMPSHIRE FORESTRY COMMISSION : Monadnock State Forest 2:39
Mountain Lookout Serv-
ice 242
54
NORTON, JOHN F. : A Wolf Hunt. The Last Wolf Hunt. 67
PAINE, ALBERT BIGELOW: Mark Twain at Dublin, 1906. 235
PARKER, JOEL : The Monadnock Townships, 1749. 41
Monadnock and the Turnpike. 59 The First Great Fire. 64
PARTRIDGE, COL. SAMUEL: The Western Frontier, 1723-5. 22
PEABODY, WILLIAM BOURN OLIVER: Monadnock (the first poem) 71
PERRY, ALBERT: The Grand Monadnock. 93
PETERBOROUGH: from the petition for incorporation, 1759
30
PICKERING, EDWARD C .: Accurate Mountain Heights. 210
197
PROCTOR, EDNA DEAN: Contoocook River Monadnock in October 214
ROBINSON, EDWIN ARLINGTON: Monadnock Through the Trees .. 252
SALTONSTALL, Gov .: The Western Frontier, 1723-5. 23
SANBORN, FRANKLIN B .: Channing and Sanborn, 1869 182 SOCIETY FOR PROTECTION OF N. H. FORESTS: Masonian Reserva- tion, I 245
SPRAGUE (THE MINISTER OF DUBLIN) : A New Hampshire Sermon 66
STONE, WILLIAM H .: The Flora of Monadnock. 202
THAYER, ABBOTT H .: The Masonian Reservation, II 246
An Artist and Monadnock (concerning Mr. Thayer) 250
THIRD TURNPIKE ROAD, from the act of incorporation, 1799 61
THOREAU, HENRY DAVID : To the Mountains. 86
Thoreau's Horizon Mountains 87
A Camp on Wachusett. 91
Thoreau's Northwest Horizon, 1851 .. 111 Moonlight on Mountains 117
263
INDEX OF AUTHORS
THOREAU, HENRY DAVID (Cont.) : PAGE
Thoreau's Visit to Monadnock, 1852
Thoreau's Journal, Sept. 6-7 118 Thoreau's Journal, Sept. 27 119 Still the Northwest Horizon, 1853-7 "A Sermon on the Mount" 121
"My Mountain Fence" 122
"So the Mountains Have a Bloom". 123 Thoreau's Visit to Monadnock, 1858 .. 125
Thoreau and Channing, 1860 Thoreau's Journal, Aug. 4-9 140
Thoreau's Journal, Aug. 28 and Sept. 1 167
Thoreau to Harrison Blake, Nov. 4 168
News from Monadnock, 1861 176
TIMLOW, ELIZABETH WESTYN: On Monadnock in Storm 254
TWAIN, MARK: At Dublin, 1905. 235
U. S. COAST SURVEY: Monadnock and the Coast Survey, 1861 .. 175
U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY: The Naming of Monadnock. Dictionary of Altitudes in U. S .... 210
3
Webster's Dictionary, 1900: "Monadnock" Becomes a Common Noun 218
WHITING, MAJOR WILLIAM: Monadnock Known by Name, 1704 .. 15
WHITTIER, JOHN GREENLEAF: Monadnock from Wachusett 177
WILDER, JOSEPH: (a surveyor's report, 1738) .
30
WILLARD, CAPT. SAMUEL: A Journal of My March (1725)
24
WILLARD, SECRETARY: The Western Frontier, 1723-5.
23
WINTHROP, Gov .: Gov. Winthrop Looks Northwest, 1632. 7
WOOD, FREDERIC J .: from The Turnpikes of New England. 60
WOOD, WILLIAM: Gold? 1634. 8
264
INDEX OF THE GIFTS OF LAND
PAGE
JAFFREY TOWN RESERVATION, 1884. 200
MONADNOCK STATE FOREST, 1905. 238
THE MASONIAN RESERVATION, 1913. 245
THE DERBY WOODS ON MONADNOCK, 1917 248
MEMORIAL ROAD, 1922. 253
A NEW RESERVATION OF 100 ACRES, 1925.
201
THE MARKING OF THE MONADNOCK-SUNAPEE TRAIL, 1925. 257 A CAMPING PLACE OF ELEVEN ACRES ON THE TRAIL 257
265
INDEX OF PLACES
See also Wm. Hubbard's map (1677) and Dr. Douglass's map (1753 ?)
PAGE
Albany, N. Y., 1704
13
1741 32
1838 82
Ann, Cape, 1749. 38
Appledore, N. H. 110
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