USA > New Jersey > Bergen County > Englewood > Englewood : its annals and reminiscences > Part 1
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org.
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6
Englewood
Gc 974.902 En35h 1330337
M. L.
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
4.50
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
3 1833 02248 3546
V/m /M hasTrup
L
26, '09
ENGLEWOOD.
ITS ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES.
We have a strong City; Salvation will God appoint for walls and bulwarks.
FIRST DWELLING BUILT IN ENGLEWOOD.
ENGLEWOOD. MJ.
ITS ANNALS AND REMINISCENCES.
BY
J. A. HUMPHREY.
ILLUSTRATED.
J. S. OGILVIE PUBLISHING CO., NEW YORK.
Copyrighted, 1899,
BY
J. A. HUMPHREY.
1330337
PREFACE.
THE object of this volume is to place on record events in the history of Engle- wood for the last forty years, also to keep in memory those who were its pioneers and founders.
The writer entered upon this duty with reluctance, as he would have much preferred to have left it to other hands more capable than his.
Realizing that the annals of this city should be written by one familiar with its affairs from the beginning, and not knowing how long that one may be per- mitted to remain, is the writer's apology for attempting the task.
vi
PREFACE.
It is written mostly from memory, as very few of the incidents are on record.
It is not intended to narrate the history of men and affairs of to-day, except as they form links in the chain of beings that extends back into years that have past.
The author has not intended to give a detailed history of societies and institu- tions, but to notice them in a general way.
He asks the reader to be kind in his criticisms, and tread gently over the im- prefections of this little work.
J. A. H.
CONTENTS.
-
CHAPTER.
PAGE.
I. A Retrospective View 11
II. A Flight of Fancy. 16
III. The Habits and Customs of the People .. 18 IV. Emigration to the Suburbs. 20
V. The Birth of Englewood 21
VI. The Northern Railroad
25
VII. The First to Arrive. 28
VIII. Englewood's Early Residents 30 IX. An Excursion. 33
X. A Scarcity of Supplies 39
XI. Moving to the Country 41
XII. Welcomed by the Original Inhabitants . 43
XIII. The Church Remembered. 45 49
XIV. Contributions to the First Church
XV. Building in the Palisades Forest 51
XVI. A Large Undertaking 53
XVII. Building a New Town. 58
XVIII. Malaria and Mosquitoes. 62
XIX. When our Wells Ran Dry 64
XX. Effect of the Civil War
66
XXI. Our First Tonsorial Professor 69
XXII. A Railroad Experience
XXIII. The Liberty Pole Tavern 72
XXIV. Our First Postmaster. 26
XXV. Our First Physician. 80
viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER.
PAGE.
XXVI. Prosperous Times 83
XXVII. Our Schools. 96
XXVIII. The Hospital. 101
XXIX. The Field Club. 105
XXX. Englewood Golf Club 110
XXXI. Music and Song 113
XXXII. Planting Trees. 115
XXXIII. Fruit Trees. 117
XXXIV. An Old Orchard 119
XXXV. Drainage. 121
XXXVI. Anticipating Wants. 122
XXXVII. The Canal Company 125
XXXVIII. Roads 127
XXXIX. Village Improvement Society
XL. The Protection Society
128
XLI. An Exciting Incident.
XLII. The Old Ravine 130
139
XLIII. The Little Park near the Depot 141
143
XLV. An Old Ice Pond. 145
XLVI. The Press. 148
XLVII. Englewood Sewer Co. 151
XLVIII. A Swiss Mountain Road 152
XLIX. New York and New Jersey Bridge Com- pany. 155
L. Celebrating the Election of President Grant in 1868. 157
LI. A Surrender to Our Flag 160
LII. A Revival of Business 162
LIII. A New Presbyterian Church 165
LIV. A Methodist Church. 169
LV. The Catholic Church. 171
LVI. The Episcopal Church. 173
LVII. A Picnic on the Palisades 175
137
XLIV. The Old Saw Mill
CONTENTS. ix
CHAPTER. PAGE.
LVIII. Speculating Beyond the Limits of the
Town. 178
LIX. The Panic of 1873. 180
LX. The Tables Turned. 181
LXI. The Palisades Land Company 183
LXII. Speculation in Oil. 185
LXIII. Purchasing a Gas Machine. 187
LXIV. The Bergen County Gas Company 189
LXV. Water Introduced. 191
LXVI. Brookside Cemetery. 192
LXVII. An Auction Sale 195
LXVIII. A Contest with a Burglar 199
LXIX. Our Oldest Master Builders 204
LXX. An ex-Tammany Sheriff 205
LXXI. A Chapter on Taxes. 206
LXXII. Good Templars 208
LXXIII. Catholic Societies 209
LXXIV. Tuscan Lodge F. and A. M., No. 115.
210
LXXV. Odd Fellows. 212
LXXVI. The Royal Arcanum. 213 LXXVII. Dwight Post. 215
LXXVIII. Loan and Building Association 217
LXXIX. The Daughters of the Revolution 218
LXXX. The Woman's Exchange
221
LXXXI. The Lyceum 223
LXXXII. Daisy Fields. 225
LXXXIII. A New Church 229
LXXXIV. Our Fire Department. 233
LXXXV. A City of Dwellings. 335
LXXXVI. The Character of Our City 237
3 1833 02248 3546
ENGLEWOOD.
I.
A RETROSPECTIVE VIEW.
As time rolls on we love to look back into the bygone regions of the past-a region we all must enter some day-as we belong to a vast chain of beings with every link united, either in written or unwritten history. How pleasant then to let our thoughts return to scenes and friends of long ago.
My object in writing a brief history of our village is to preserve the memory of its founders, before the last one departs and is forgotten; and to give in detail some of the events it has passed through from the time the first steam whistle
12
ENGLEWOOD.
awoke the echoes of the Palisades to the period when the Township Committee handed its affairs over to the new city government. In other words to compare the past with the present. It may in- terest those who are to-day enjoying the lights and shadows of Englewood, its well-paved streets, its shady walks, and handsome lawns, with forests of trees that protect you from summer heat, with waters that flow through every dwelling as they pass to the ocean.
Ours was a dear little village for many years, with all its old-time hospitality extended to each other in everyday life, a place where we knew every one as we knew the shrubs and flowers in our gar- dens. We became strongly united, more by mutual interests and obligations than kindred ties. It was a union of earnest workers associated by a community of rights and interests. They loved nature in all its varied forms of life; they loved
13
ENGLEWOOD.
it as a picture and not as a scientific study.
Their object in inviting others to join them in making this their home was that they might have friends and neighbors to share in the benefits that were sure to accrue. Speculation never entered the minds of the first settlers when they came here, but it forced itself upon them naturally and from necessity. If we trace their history one by one, we shall find that their labors were a contribution to the community, with very little gain to themselves.
They found poor soil, rough and un- cultivated fields, no fences, streets, lawns or shade; and all the comforts of modern civilization were wanting.
The gallinaceous quail and partridge sang their motherly songs and raised their young in the fields and forests un- molested, until the sharp crack of the village sportsman's rifle silenced them.
14
ENGLEWOOD.
The coming of the early inhabitants of Englewood was more than an incident in their lives -- it was an event that has be- come history. Their lives were a succes- sion of events, the issue of which is seen on every hand. It was a pleasure for them to lay off the commercial harness and spend a portion of their years in transferring broad acres into lawns and gardens.
"Where they could unconcern'dly find Hours, days, and years slide softly away, In health of body, peace of mind Quiet by day.
"Sound sleep by night; study and ease, Together mixed; sweet recreation; And innocence, which most does please, With meditation."
Bound together in a common lot, these early settlers spent much time in friendly consultation for the common good.
15
ENGLEWOOD.
They worked by faith; as to land among strangers, surrounded by barren fields, with very few inhabitants, buy real es- tate, map it out, and plant a depot are evidences that an unseen hand guides the undeveloped germs in our minds.
16
ENGLEWOOD.
II.
A FLIGHT OF FANCY.
WHILE spending the summer of 1859. at the Getty House, in the village of Yonk- ers, I often looked dreamily across the Hudson River toward the west, and won- dered what there was beyond those mighty Palisades-rocky heights that rose five hundred feet perpendicularly above the river, and crowned by a dense forest that seemed strangely wild and out of place so near the great city. I was told that beyond the western slope of these mountains a broad and fertile val- ley extended from New York City to Piermont, a distance of twenty-five miles. And that its inhabitants had no means of communicating with the city except by stage or private conveyance.
ENGLEWOOD DEPOT, 1859.
-
+
12
ENGLEWOOD.
The valley was watered by a stream that ages ago was a mighty river. I was also informed that a railroad had just been completed, where not only the inhabi- tants of the valley could have rapid com- munication with the city, but where the people of the great and growing metrop- olis could find rest and fresh air as well as ramble through the sweet-scented fields and forests of New Jersey.
Conducting business in the City of New York and retiring to the country at the close of the day was hardly thought of at that time. Yonkers was but a small village, and the Oranges, with one exception, had not appeared in history. A township then would make a good- sized county to-day. Hackensack Town- ship extended to the Hudson River, and Englewood Township did not exist until 1871. A tax on a house and lot in 1861 would hardly pay a dog tax to-day.
18
ENGLEWOOD.
III.
THE HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.
PREVIOUS to 1858 the residents of this valley seldom visited the City of New York, except strictly for business or to convey their farm products to market, as the latter was their principal source of income. An old stage of ancient de- sign ran from the "Liberty Pole Hotel," an old inn, whose history antedates the Revolution, to Hoboken. It carried no mail as the nearest post office was at Hackensack. It will hardly be realized that many who were born so near the city lived to a good old age, and passed away without ever having walked its busy streets. The voice of the first steam whistle awoke to new life the easy-going
19
ENGLEWOOD.
residents of the valley of the "Over- peck." The inhabitants were an honest, industrious people, caring little for the busy world beyond them. Their friends, outside of their immediate neighborhood, were few. The entire population of a township comprised but a small number of names, as they married and intermar- ried, and were nearly all first, second or third cousins.
Fortunes were slowly accumulated, and seldom lost, as the people never speculated. Good health and old age were the rewards for their contented and temperate lives.
220
ENGLEWOOD.
IV.
EMIGRATION TO THE SUBURBS.
THE population that sleep out of town, that go to and fro from every great city, is constantly increasing, and assumes an air of sympathy for all who cling to the stifling atmosphere of the city's noisy streets and the poisonous perfumes of its sewers and gas factories. The singing of birds in the early morning is better than the noisy horse car or the small ven- der of garden merchandise under your front windows.
But there are exceptions to all rules, as we have seen many delightful people return to the city after a short expe- rience in the country. Still there is always a floating population that is as restless as the ocean waves.
21
ENGLEWOOD.
V.
THE BIRTH OF ENGLEWOOD.
To Mr. J. Wyman Jones belongs the credit of first presenting Englewood to the outside world. Being acquainted with several of the contractors and parties engaged in building the "North- ern Railroad of New Jersey," Mr. Jones received letters explaining the opportu- nities this road would offer for opening new towns along its line. Quick to see the force of this advice he visited this valley, and after investigation, wisely chose the present site of Englewood and located a station. Mr. J. Wyman Jones purchased by contract one hundred and twenty-five acres of land bounded on the north and south by what is now Palisade
22
ENGLEWOOD.
Avenue, and running from the "Over- peck Creek" to the Hudson River from Thomas W. Demarest and Garrett A. Lydecker, both of English Neighborhood, Hackensack Township, New Jersey. Mr. J. Wyman Jones named Utica as his residence at that time. This contract previously referred to was made in 1858. In June, 1859, Mr. Jones invited others to join him in this purchase. At that time Messrs. I. Smith Homans, Jr., Robert Bayles, and Byran Murray, Jr., each took a quarter interest in lands on the north side of Palisade Avenue. Mr. J. Wyman Jones, I. Smith Homans, Jr., and Sheppard Homans were the first New Yorkers to come into this valley for a permanent residence after the North- ern Railroad was completed. Their zeal and enthusiasm inspired many others to join them in the new enterprise. J. Wy- man Jones was practicing law. I. Smith Homans, Jr., with his father, published
23
ENGLEWOOD.
the "Bankers' Magazine," and Sheppard Homans was actuary of the Mutual Life Insurance Company. Mr. I. Smith Ho- mans, Jr., united with Mr. Jones at this time and entered heartily into the enter- prise. In the spring of 1859 a few gentle- men met to consider a name for the ter- ritory they had just purchased. To Mr. J. Wyman Jones is due the credit of pre- senting the name of Englewood. Several other names were discussed, but Engle- wood was adopted. How the name was presented to the mind of Mr. Jones I cannot say. The farm above referred to formerly belonged to and was occupied a short time before by the Rev. C. T. De- marest, whose house was located on the site of the present Lyceum. In August, 1859, Mr. Jones had the lands surveyed, and a map of Englewood placed on file in the office of the county clerk at Hacken- sack.
At that time the birth of Englewood
24
ENGLEWOOD.
may be said to have taken place. The territory of the place included six farms, said farms being long, narrow strips of land running from the creek to the Hud- son River. At this time there was no Palisade Avenue nor even a street. Mr. Jones had the streets laid out, and gave the contract for grading and putting them in order. Stumps of trees had to be removed along the wooded part of them to make room for the road.
25
ENGLEWOOD.
VI
"THE NORTHERN RAILROAD."
THE Northern Railroad was completed about this time. It had wrecked two or three contractors in its construction, as was generally the case with new rail- roads forty years ago. A small station stood a little south of the old brick one that was abandoned some time ago. The road did not pay expenses for some time. Its bonds were unsalable at seventy and its stock at fifty cents on a dollar unless for the purpose of buying real estate. The little station had a brilliant christening the first night of its existence. A ball, attended by the lads and fair lasses of the valley, was kept up until the early hours of the morning, and
26
ENGLEWOOD.
right and left, and all hands around, kept step with the music of a violin.
The road ran but one train a day for some time, and one passenger and bag- gage car accommodated the traveling public. The trains ran through the open cut into the Pennsylvania depot for some years. The company's removal to Chambers Street met with strong opposi- tion by many of its patrons. Thomas W. Demarest was its first president and John Van Brunt was treasurer and a director.
The first train must have been an awakening to the minds of the people of this vicinity and filled them with aston- ishment as it went roaring up the valley lik an uncaged lion. It was to be the last of their isolation from the world.
I presume many timid people made their wills and parted with reluctance and fear before taking passage for the first time.
27
ENGLEWOOD.
C. C. Waters was the first depot mas- ter. C. W. Chamberlain took charge not long after and kept it to the satisfaction of the company and the public for many years.
28
ENGLEWOOD.
VII.
THE FIRST TO ARRIVE.
IF any one will look at the map of Englewood, filed in 1858, he will observe that but three houses existed within its boundaries, one of which stood on the corner of Palisade Avenue and Engle Street.
Palisade Avenue was a rough moun- tain road, opened at first to convey rail- road ties from the forest of the Palisades to the valley below.
J. Wyman Jones and family spent the summer of 1859 at the house of John Van Brunt, a half a mile south of the station.
Mr. I. Smith Homans, Sr., and family moved into the "Dominie Demarest"
29
ENGLEWOOD.
house, corner of the avenue and Engle Street. This old dwelling was afterward enlarged and became a young ladies' high school, which a few years later was destroyed by fire.
The family of Mr. Homans occupied the only house on the east side of the railroad within the boundaries of the map of Englewood just filed. It ex- tended its hospitality to the many people that visited the town. They were a family of fascinating courtesy, whose kind attention to strangers attracted many desirable people to this place. Their house was a sunny spot to their numerous friends.
30
ENGLEWOOD.
VIII.
ENGLEWOOD'S EARLY RESIDENTS.
MR. J. WYMAN JONES and Mr. I. Smith Homans, Jr., devoted more time and en- ergy in colonizing this valley than any residents within its boundaries, and they are most closely identified with the his- tory of this town. They gave liberally toward the building of the first depot, the little stone chapel, the hotel known as the "Englewood House," the Athe- næum, as well as several private resi- dences, and the laying out and grading of streets, planting trees, and so forth. They labored and gave much toward the building of churches and the establish- ment of schools.
Mr. Sheppard Homans assisted his
31
ENGLEWOOD.
brother with means to carry on all these improvements. He was an old and valued citizen, a delightful companion who took an active interest in Engle- wood affairs until his death in 1897.
32
ENGLEWOOD.
IX.
AN EXCURSION.
ONE afternoon in the month of October, 1859, Mr. Byran Murray, Jr., stepped into my place of business, and in course of conversation informed me in glowing terms of a valley west of the Palisade forests, watered by the "Overpeck," and inhabited by an industrious people who had never enjoyed the benefits of rapid transit. The writer was also informed that a railroad had just been completed to Piermont, a distance of twenty-five miles from New York. He invited me to join himself and a number of friends on an excursion over this new road to the new station of Englewood. I accepted his kind invitation, as I had for a long time
TW DEMAREST G A. LYDECKER E S. BRAYTON HIRAM SLOCUM I.M DEDEREA
ENGLEWOOD. BERGEN CO N.J
J VAN - NEST
PHAFLY
HUDSON
ROAD
TERRACE
0
19
18
STRCE
17
16
15
14
13
12
FLOY
REIS
&
IG
K
R
SA
125
AVENUE
Te 18LA
3D
12
E
R
10
E
$
9
J
W
5
ION
E
S
P
NORTHERN
RAIL ROAD
FIRST MAP OF ENGLEWOOD.
SUMMIT
D
HUDSON RIVER
WYM
23
ENGLEWOOD.
desired to exchange the conventional life of a noisy city for forests, fields and streams.
On a beautiful morning in the month of October Messrs. J. Wyman Jones, I. Smith Homans, Robert Baylis, Bryan Murray, Jr., George S. Coe, Nathan T. Johnson, and the writer, took a train for Englewood, a new station on the "North- ern Railroad," about fourteen miles from New York. It was a day to impress a lover of nature. The barren fields were
to us an enchanted garden.
Well culti-
vated farms sloped down to the valley from the west. Orchards of golden fruit and the scattered dwellings of the peace- ful farmer made a picture to remember. The densely wooded Palisades on our right, and the well watered valley, were a revelation. The golden hues of autumn illuminated all nature. We arrived on time; there was no Englewood to greet us except in name. Not a lot had been
34
ENGLEWOOD.
sold, not a building erected; but nature was here in all her glorious dress. We alighted at the little rough and ready station and after viewing our surround- ings started for the home of Mr. I. Smith Homans, Sr., where we were kindly wel- comed, and invited to partake of a lunch- eon that we shall ever remember with pleasure. After resting a short time we started out on the highway that led to the Hudson River. Undulating waves like the billows of the ocean carried us from plain to plain, from the valley to the Palisades, as the road ascends by successive valleys and plains all the way to the river. The air was laden with the breath of autumn; the sun shed a soft and mellow light; all nature was vocal with the song of birds, and the hum of insect life filled the air. When we ar- rived nearly opposite the present Pres- byterian Church, my eye rested upon a beautiful piece of rolling ground, over
35
1330337
ENGLEWOOD.
which not a tree or a shrub cast a shadow. In a business point of view I had gone far enough. It was love at first sight; I would have purchased that field then and there; I said, "If you wish me to make my dwelling in Englewood, there must be my home." This announce- ment caused a little embarrassment to two of the gentlemen present, as they had selected that identical spot for their homes. A desire to secure new settlers caused them to seriously consider the matter. After a few days' reflection, and upon my promise to erect a dwelling the following spring or return the land, I was permitted to make the purchase.
This plot of ground contained six acres, and had a frontage of six hundred feet on the present Palisade Avenue. I had been so accustomed to city lots that this seemed like a small farm. My house was completed in the time specified, and was occupied early in the spring of 1860.
36
ENGLEWOOD.
To my personal property I added the usual household pets, which included a cat, a black and tan, and an animal to supply us with butter and milk. These animals all disappeared by accident, or otherwise; the dog lost his bark under the wheels of a butcher's cart, and the bovine lost her life in an attempt to de- rail a train running ten miles an hour. Nearly every one kept a cow at that time, as the fields were all unfenced and pasturage was free. This was the first contract given out, and the first dwelling built in Englewood after it received its name.
We continued our excursion to the Palisades. From that elevation a beau- tiful prospect was unfolded to view; we were surrounded by the silent forests, where cool shadows lie, looked down five hundred feet to the waters of the Hud- son, and viewed its floating commerce as it passed to and fro on its business
37
ENGLEWOOD.
mission. Then across to its eastern shore, stretching along like a fairy land, thence over the Sound to the distant cities and villages of Long Island. Notwithstanding these scenes have grown old like a garment-lost their novelty, and change of dress, the reader can hardly realize how beautiful, new, and fascinating they were to us at that time. The dust under our feet seemed grains of gold, and the views seemed priceless. We returned to the fields be- low, and continued through wild and tangled underbrush, over stone walls, and through shadowy lanes to the pres- ent village of Tenafly.
On these elevated plains there was very little cultivation; stone walls of ancient construction, weeds, and wild vines covered the fields. Very little farm produce was raised on the east side of the valley. Rough roads and foot paths led from each farm up into the
38
ENGLEWOOD.
mountains. These roads were used by the farmers to transport their fuel, and lumber. In those days we used to roam the forests in search of game without much fear of poisonous reptiles, but since that time, the farmer having retired, thick underbrush has grown up, the cop- perhead is unmolested, and primeval darkness, and silence reign. After a delightful tramp we returned to the station full of enthusiam for the land we had discovered. The wild and unculti- vated surroundings pleased us. Fortu- nately our youth and ambition fitted us for the years of toil and labor that lay unseen in the unrevealed future.
This excursion meant more for all of us than we realized at the time. On that day was laid the foundation of a city, and we were unconsciously drawing together in a close friendship which was to continue through our lives.
39
ENGLEWOOD.
X.
A SCARCITY OF SUPPLIES.
FOR some time we had to buy our marketing and groceries, in fact all our family supplies, in New York, as the only grocery store was a very small one kept by Mr. John Van Brunt, and situated about a mile south of this village. We had no market or shop of any kind. It was not unusual for the heads of families to carry their bas- kets to and from the trains every day. The streets were new and we were obliged to drive through Jersey mud and deep sands, our wheels often sinking to the hubs. Our walks were nature's walks chiefly-almost impassable. If we missed a train, which sometimes oc-
40
ENGLEWOOD.
curred, we would drive to Hoboken or remain at home; but distance and time have been annihilated by rapid-running and frequent trains. Going to and from the country is a simple matter compared to forty years ago.
FIRST CHURCH IN ENGLEWOOD.
41
ENGLEWOOD.
XI.
MOVING TO THE COUNTRY.
THE early settler had to occupy farm- houses wherever he could find accommo- dation until new homes were erected. A great many families were settled miles away, families that afterward came to live within the village limits. The writer with his family went to reside with Mr. J. W. Deuell, the school teacher, until his house was completed. Mr. By-
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.