Brief history of Chatham, Morris County, New Jersey, Part 6

Author: Philhower, Charles A., 1878- [from old catalog]
Publication date: 1914
Publisher: New York, Lewis historical publishing co.
Number of Pages: 88


USA > New Jersey > Morris County > Chatham > Brief history of Chatham, Morris County, New Jersey > Part 6


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The Newark and Morris Turnpike was built on the old stage route in the year 1840. Toll gates were located near the present Canoe Brook Golf Club and at Union Hill. Mr. George Lees who died recently at the age of eighty-three for many years kept the toll gate near the Canoe Brook Golf Club. As a result of these toll gates the present Watchung avenue was used as a "Shunpike" over which wagons loaded with produce on the way to Elizabeth or Newark could shun the tolls of these two gates. On account of this practice the road became known by that name.


In order that the original names of the roads in and about Chatham be not lost, a list is herewith presented including some which heretofore have been referred to incidentally: Main Street. known as Minnisink Path, road to Elizabeth Town, and Morris Turnpike; Passaic Avenue, Budd Lane ; River Road, road to Turkey; Watching Avenue, Shun-pike; Fairmount Avenue, Long Hill road ; Red Road, Maple Avenue (changed back to Red Road), named Red Road because of outcropping of red shale; Jockey Hol- low road, ran from Summit avenue along the river to Watchung avenue, was abandoned when the second track of the railroad was laid ; Lafayette avenue, Tyson Lane ; Summit avenue, New Road.


The Morris & Essex Railroad was built in the year 1837 and marks a great step in the means of travel to and from New York. This road ex- tended at first from Newark to Morristown. The rails of the tracks were made of wood with a thin strip of iron on the top. The locomotive first used was a queer sort of "dinky" engine with a single driving wheel. Wood was used for fuel. There were three trains daily each way, and it was not until


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Chatham in 1845. Drawn by James M. Littlejohn.


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35


MORRIS COUNTY


the year 1899 that regular Sunday trains were put on. The business of the road became so profitable that in 1867 a second track was laid.


For a number of years about 1860, Chatham was a kind of terminus for the western coal traffic. It was not an uncommon sight to see dozens of trains made up of "coal jimmies" lying in the switches at this junction. Chatham was a reserve coal station from which train loads of coal were taken to the cities as needed. The Lehigh Valley railroad ran most of its coal over the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western at this time. Crews com- ing in on loaded coal trains would lie over here for a day and then return to the coal fields of Pennsylvania on empty trains. On account of this custom, many reckless trainmen were brought to the town, and through their conduct about the hotels and saloons they became quite intolerable to the inhabitants. So aggravating was their behavior that in 1870 through the efforts of Mr. George Shepard Page, all hotels and saloons were closed.


Until the year 1902 an engine house was located in the railroad yard south of Summit avenue. This was used for the engine of the Chatham accommodation train. At one time six engines were housed in this building.


For a long time the low marshy land north of the old railroad station was an unsightly menace to the town. In 1896, through the efforts of the ladies of Chatham and Mr. Reasoner, superintendent of the Morris & Essex railroad, this land was purchased and filled in. The ground was graded, shrubbery planted, and a park laid out, which was named for Mr. Reasoner.


At one time there were four stations within the present limits of the borough. They were located, one at Stanley at the River road crossing, one on the northeast corner of Passaic avenue and the railroad tracks, one at King's Road crossing, and one at Division street. Ultimately there was but one station, which was situated in Reasoner's Park. On the event of the ele- vation of the tracks in the fall of 1913, the site of the station was changed from Reasoner's Park to its present location west of Fairmount avenue and south of the tracks, where a new station was built.


After considerable controversy between the citizens of the town and the council, whether the railroad should elevate or depress its tracks, in the year 1913 a decision was rendered in favor of elevation. The railroad com- pany began the project in the fall of that year. It was agreed to close Wil- low Street. Red Road and Fuller Avenue. Great excavations were made between Summit Avenue and the river, and a freight-yard was laid out in which were located the freight-station and coal yard. An average elevation of about ten feet was made, and the double curve in the Stanley section was eliminated. On changing the site of the station to its present location the old coal yard and brick yard pond was transformed into a park.


The traffic on this road has ultimately made it such a profitable enter- prise that the stock stands among the highest in the country and there now are instead of three trains daily thirty-two each way with nearly as many on Sunday.


It was not until the year 1912 that Chatham was favored with trolley service. At this time the Morris County Traction Company was granted a franchise over the main street. Double tracks were laid and cars run every half hour. The main street was paved with amesite and in consequence greatly improved.


Hotels, Stores, and Post Office-The early growth of Chatham must be attributed to some extent to the location of its first hotel or roadhouse which was built about the year 1755. A second was erected soon afterward. The great practice of farmers carting their produce from the central part of the


36


HISTORY OF CHATHAM


State to Elizabeth Town and Newark made a demand for these hotels. Chatham lying on the turnpike road was about one day's journey from the center of the State. Farmers on their way to market were accustomed to stay over night at the hotels of the town. The next day by starting very early in the morning they would continue to Newark or Elizabeth Town and return in the afternoon. Men doing this would "put up" the second night in Chatham and on the third day go on to their homes. So extensive was this practice that the Rev. Joseph M. Ogden related he had seen at one time as many as forty Conestoga wagons in line coming over the hill from Madi- son on their way to Newark or Elizabeth Town. The yards of the various hotels which flourished here were frequently filled with these wagons and in consequence this little village was periodically a scene of considerable ex- citement. Loads of charcoal frequently passed through the town, and herds of cattle were often kept over night on the flat east of the river. Timothy Day was among the first who kept a hotel east of the river. This tavern was situated near where the road branches off to Turkey. About 1820 it was known as Condit's tavern. Samuel Lee kept a hotel west of Condit's tavern. In the year 1808 Israel Lum was the proprietor of an inn on the southwest corner of the Turnpike and Long Hill Road ( Fairmount avenue). From the early part of the nineteenth century the hotel west of the river and north of the Turnpike road was known as Crowell's tavern. About 1865 this tavern was kept for several years by a George Philhower. Squire Spen- cer's hotel and store combined was located west of the river and south of Main Street nearly opposite Crowell's tavern. About thirty years ago on the site of the Widow Field's mansion, William Martin built a summer hotel which is now known as the Fairview House. Some years ago the business of catering to summer boarders was extensively carried on at this hotel which accommodated in the maximum about one hundred-fifty guests.


In Revolutionary times two stores were spoken of in the New Jersey Journal. One was probably located east of the river and the other west ; the former was Jacob Morrell's, and the latter Foster Horten's. Advertisements concerning these stores are found in the N. J. Journal under the date May II, 1779.


The Rev. James Caldwell, in his capacity as deputy quartermaster- general, kept a store in the village during the Revolution. [Proceedings of Hist. Assn. of N. J., vols. 3-4, Ist series, p. 82.] The following amusing incident is recorded concerning the parson's ammunition and army provision store. Over the door of his establishment were the letters D. Q. M. G. (deputy quartermaster general). Abram Clark, a citizen of the town, one day was found by the parson gazing intently at these letters evidently trying to interpret their meaning. "What are you looking at so earnestly?" asked the parson. The reply was, "I am trying to make out what those letters mean." "What do you think," questioned Rev. Caldwell. "Well," said Mr. Clark, "I can see nothing else in them but, Devilish Queer Minister of the Gospel," over which remark the good old parson jocularly laughed.


For a number of years the most popular store of the town was kept by "General" Malılon Minton. This building was located opposite George Parrot's house now occupied by Mr. H. B. Stopford. Some rather exciting tales are told about the robberies committed at the old Minton store. Pre- vious to 1860 it was not an unfrequent occurrence for ruffians to come out from the cities or larger towns and successfully rob the country stores. On one particular occasion the inhabitants of Chatham were awakened on a frosty morning by the cries of fire. It was soon discovered that "General"


Lum Homestead, corner of Main and Fairmount Avenue, Chatham.


--- 4


Chatham Hotel (Crowell Tavern ), East Main Street, Chatham.


37


MORRIS COUNTY


Minton's store was ablaze. On arriving at the store it was observed that the doors were open and that a robbery had been committed in addition to the firing of the building. All joined in fighting the fire excepting Samuel Lee, proprietor of one of the hotels east of the river, who conceived the idea that the culprit was not far on his way down the turnpike road. Jumping on a horse he set out in pursuit of the suspected burglar. Beyond Springfield he overtook a suspicious character with a load of store goods. Mr. Lee rode up and commanded him to stop. The thief drew a single barrel pistol and attempted to shoot his assailant, but luckily the weapon would not go off. Lee dismounted and a tussle ensued in which the thief was bound and brought back to Chatham. On Mr. Lee's return he found the fire extinguished. The goods were restored and the convict was sent to prison, where he died.


Another incident is related of thieves entering General Minton's house. This was one winter evening when Sarah E. Minton, the daughter, was away at boarding school in Newton. It was Miss Minton's custom to sleep in a down stairs bedroom. In the middle of the night Mrs. Minton was partially awakened for some unknown reason, and in her half conscious state noticed flashes of light on the ceiling. This phenomenon though unusual faded from her consciousness, and she dropped off to sleep. In the morning it was dis- covered that the home had been robbed, and upon investigation dirty finger prints on the white counterpane of the empty bed of their daughter Sarah, and the open window under which the bed stood revealed that this had been the source of entrance to the house. Further findings proved that Miss Minton's absence was fortunate for her, for upon the capture of the thieves to the surprise of the country folk it was found that they were two burly negroes. One in confessing his criminality stated that he stood over the bed of Mr. and Mrs. Minton with an ax in hand determined to dispatch its occupants should they awaken while his accomplice was looting the house. (Tradition from Mr. Guy Minton. )


The first postoffices established in New Jersey were at Trenton, Prince- ton, and Elizabeth Town. Chatham in the latter part of the eighteenth century was an outpost of the Elizabeth Town office, and mail was delivered at the stores by stage. This mail which was addressed Elizabeth Town reached the various inhabitants of this territory through voluntary distribu- t'on by the merchant of the town with whom most of the people of the com- munity traded. Of course there was very little correspondence and a letter was seldom received. However the practice of letter writing. both of a social nature and for business purposes, grew until on July 1, 1808, Chatham be- came a postoffice station, with Daniel Crane as postmaster. Mr. Crane was succeeded on July 1, 1814, by David L. Osborne. In the year 1822 Gideon Burnett was the postmaster. Later Samuel Crane and Paul Day served in this capacity. The stage route which ran from New York to Easton by way of Schooley's Mountain passed through Chatham and left mail there at this time. In the year 1851 William R. MacDougal was postmaster and con- tinued in his relationship to the national government for thirty-one years. The office was in his store which occupied the east end of the present dwell- ing of Mr. Geo. MacDougal. After his incumbency the postoffice was located on Bower Lane. Later it passed to Hudson Minton's store on the corner of Fairmount and Main, and ultimately to the Wolfe building, in which it is located at the present time with Dr. William J. Wolfe as post- master. Dr. Wolfe was preceded by Mr. Ezra F. Ferris who was post- master in the borough for fifteen years.


33


HISTORY OF CHATHAM


A postoffice was established in Stanley about the year 1865, in con- sequence of the large paper manufactory along the river. This office, though small has had an uninterrupted existence from the above date until the present.


The Chatham Fish and Game Protective Association, which has for a number of years been not only of great social but of considerable moral benefit to the town, was organized April 11, 1889, by a few gentlemen who were interested in field sports. The purpose of this association was to pro- tect more effectually game and game fish. Its members consisted of many noted men of New York City and New Jersey who for a few days in the year would come to the club to enjoy gunning in the adjacent country. A great many quail were set free, the river was stocked with bass, and the smaller streams with trout. Trap shooting was indulged in to a great extent. The charter members of the club were George Shepard Page, William W. Ogden, James H. Valentine, William H. Lum, William E. Budd, William Elder, Frederick H. Lum, Addison H. Day, Josiah Jowitt, all of Chatham, and William F. Bailey of Summit, New Jersey. The first officers were George Shepard Page, president ; William W. Ogden, vice-president ; William Elder, treasurer ; Edward H. Lum, secretary, and William M. Hopping, assistant secretary. In the year 1907 a large plot of land, east of the property on which were situated at the time a great many ramshackle houses, was bought, and the present beautiful lawn and tennis courts were built.


The club known as the Chatham Wheelmen was organized in 1893. when the bicycle craze was rife throughout the country. It was strictly a wheelmen's club and enrolled in its greatest prosperity 160 members, most of whom were actual bicycle riders. Frequently large numbers would take long wheeling detours over the country. With the subsidence of the novelty of the bicycle the club slowly evolved into a social organization, and were it not for the name, the original significance of the club would be lost. Mr. Cyril G. Smith was the first president. The club now numbers about seventy-five members.


Industries-One great factor in the attraction of settlers to this locality was its water power which was caused by a slight fall in the flow of the river over the remaining terrace of the terminal moraine of the glacial period. This in fact was the most deciding element in the location of the village. There were mills at four different points in this immediate vicinity ; one at the crossing of the Passaic by the road to Elizabeth Town, one at the crossing of Summit avenue, one at the crossing of the Shun-pike in Bonneltown, and one a short distance up the river above the railroad culvert. It is possible that the "Old Forge" was located on the west side of the tail-race near Main Street. In about 1850 Parrott's mill was built east of this race way. Previous to Parrott's mill there were on that site at different times a small carding mill, a flour mill, and a fulling mill. About 1845 Mr. Chas. Spencer had both a cider mill and a saw mill west of the pond. In conjunction with these two industries he also ran a store in which he sold the product of his cider mill. The names Uncle Bobbie and Aunt Affie as applied to the Spencers are familiar cognomens to the oldest inhabitants of the present time.


The story is told that Uncle Bobbie, consistent with his penurious dis- position, in selling whiskey would always put his large thumb inside the quart can in which the liquid was drawn, and in this way would profit by the amount displaced. On account of this characteristic method of doling out his liquor the young men of the town were always on the alert in order


39


MORRIS COUNTY


to get even with Uncle Bobbie. It is said that one Thomas Bond on a cer- tain occasion came into Mr. Spencer's store and asked for a quart of spirits. Inquiry was made concerning what he had in which to put it. Mr. Bond brought forth an old green bottle with a hollow bottom. Uncle Bobbie re- torted at once saying, "That bottle won't hold a quart." After much arguing pro and con Spencer said, "Tommy, if we can get a quart of whiskey in that bottle, I will give it to you." He proceeded at once to fill the bottle from his quart measure, this time measuring without a big thumb inside the receptacle. The bottle was filled and there was still some whiskey in the measure. "There," said Uncle Bobbie, "I told you so." At which remark Bond calmly shoved the cork into the bottle, turned it upside down, and said, "You can put the rest in there." Mr. Bond drank the spirits from the bottom of the bottle and walked out of the store with a quart of whiskey which cost him nothing more than the exercising of his wit.


At another time this same Bond was short of cash and desired a drink of Uncle Bobbie's refreshing liquor. Before going to the store he wagered with the boys that he could get a quart of Mr. Spencer's whiskey "on trust." This the crowd felt assured was impossible for Bond already owed Spencer for too many quarts for which Uncle Bobbie knew there was little chance of making settlement. It was winter and Bond wore a long coat. In prepara- tion he got two quart bottles, filled one with water, and put one in each of his hip pockets. After his cronies had assembled in the store Bond walked in and asked for a quart of spirits. Mr. Spencer drew the quart which Tommy at once thrust into his pocket saying, "I can't pay you for this today." After some parleying Uncle Bobbie became angry and said, "Then give it back to me. I won't trust you for any more." "All right," replied Bond and reaching into his pocket unawares to his humble landlord he pre- sented the bottle filled with water. Uncle Bobbie poured it back into the barrel and returned the bottle to Bond. The boys went out at once, leaving poor Bobbie the victim of their joke.


One of the "old boys" of the town on a certain occasion when he had no money was refused the accustomed quart of whiskey by Mr. Spencer. He was very thirsty and in consequence was impelled to devise some scheme by which to solve the difficulty. It was the practice in those days to take in exchange for whiskey, eggs, butter, grain, and whatsoever could be sold from a country store. The man in question knowing that Uncle Bobbie had a number of hens "setting" at the time, went to the nests in the adjacent wagon house and brought back with him a sufficient number with which to purchase a quart of whiskey. It chanced that these eggs were soon after- wards sent in to Aunt Affie to be used in cooking, who found them to be unfit. A few days afterward Uncle Bobbie discovered that they were the eggs from under the "old blue hen" in the corner of the wagon house; but alas, the clever boy had already disposed of the whiskey.


A most amusing incident happened with "Aunt Affie" Spencer on the occasion of a hunter coming to the store to buy a pound of shot. The customer was in a hurry and "Aunt Affie" in her anxiety to accommodate her patron could not find the pound weight of the scales with which to weigh the desired amount of shot. Finally becoming confused in her futile search she jocularly cried "Well, a pint's a pound the world around," and gave the patient man a superabundant measure full, none the wiser of her unaccustomed liberality. Considering Aunt Affie's penurious disposition the joke on her was highly appreciated by the town folk.


40


HISTORY OF CHATHAM


Where Summit avenue crosses the Passaic, mills were located. One of these was known as Edward's saw mill. A paper mill was also located here. In 1850 there was a millwright shop at this point.


In an issue of the New Jersey Journal in 1780 there is an advertisement of the vendure of a farm which was located about a mile from Chatham near the "Old Mill." This old mill could have been none other than the mill at Bonneltown, at one time called "Goose Town," and suggests by its name that a mill was built at this crossing at an early date. The name "Bonnel's Mill" was applied very appropriately to the mill situated in this locality since it was owned and operated for a number of years by members of this family. Later it was known as Franklin's mill of Bonneltown. The name Ross's mills which applied to a combination grist and saw mill is also mentioned in the early records.


Further up the river was located the old paper mill. The principal product of this establishment was pasteboard. Jonathan C. Bonnel was the first proprietor of this business. The various firms which conducted busi- nesses on the Bonnel Mill property were Page, Kidder, and Fletcher ( felt paper, in 1868) ; Page and Kidder, (same business, mills burned in 1870) ; Armour and Co., (manila paper). Later malt creamlets were manufactured here. The buildings were also used at one time as a hat manufactory. Page and Kidder continued a business of making tar roofing paper on Willow street in Stanley. It was here through the experiments of a Mr. Cheever, a chemist, with the waste-tar products, that cresolene was discovered.


One of the earliest industries carried on to any great extent in this borough was that of the making of brick. The oldest inhabitants say that bricks were first made of clay taken from a pit opposite the old school on Passaic Avenue, however none are now living who remember seeing bricks made in this locality. It is quite likely that the business there ante- dated 1835. Brick clay was found after that date near the present "old brickyard" back of the new school on Fairmount Avenue, and one of the earliest promoters of this industry was Benjamin P. Lum, known popularly as "Squire Lum." Mr. Nelson Kelley relates that as a boy he was greatly interested in their primitive methods of making brick. Clay was mixed in a large hollow in which chunks of earth were thrown and over which oxen were driven round and round in order to "temper the mortar," as it was then termed. Afterward this clay mortar was thrown into a large receptacle and ground by means of the old time lever-power. Bricks were made by hand. The man making them had six molds in front of him which he filled with his hands and leveled with a straight stick called a "striker." The bricks were then carried off to one side to be dried in the sun. Later kilns were constructed for this purpose. After the death of Benjamin P. Lum this business fell into the hands of Messrs. Charles and Harvey Kelley, and was run by them until 1892 when the industry was discontinued on account of the scarcity of clay. The maximum output of this business was reached in about the year 1875 when 3,000,000 or more bricks were manufactured each year.


If there is one industry in this locality that stands out more prominently than any other it is that of rose growing. The earliest promoter of this business was Mr. James M. Littlejohn who was the first to send roses as merchandise from New Jersey to New York City. This was in the year 1867 at which time Mr. Littlejohn worked in Madison. Later he built the first greenhouse in Chatham which was located on Lum avenue. The business was continued at his death by his son, James R.




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