USA > New Jersey > Hudson County > Paper read before the historical society of Hudson County. 1908 > Part 5
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of the country being the descendants of the Low Dutch, or Hol- landers, that originally settled there under the Dutch title, pre- serve their religion of their ancestors, and worship after the man- ner of the Reformed Churches in the United Provinces-in prin- ciple Presbyterian, yet in subordination to the Classis of Am- sterdam. Their language, in general, bears the Dutch accent, nor havethey forgot the customs of Holland. They have of houses of worship Dutch Calvinist, 7; Dutch Lutheran, 2. In this county are the Schuyler Mines. Sixteen miles above Newark are the remarkable Passaic Falls, the precipice from the highest part of the rock is supposed to be seventy feet perpendicular."
Anxiety to secure a complete settlement of the difficulties to land titles, which had for so long disturbed the peace of the people of Bergen : and encouraged by the favorable out- come of the negotiations with Governor Hunter, a petition for a new charter was presented by the Freeholders, and by act of Assembly this was granted January 14, 1714, giving the peti- tioners a new charter as a community under the name of "The Trustees of the Freeholders, Inhabitants of the Township of Bergen." All the previous grants and privileges were by this act confirmed. Still the land troubles continued to vex the peace of the community. Like Banquo's ghost, they would not down. Adverse claims of interest in the common lands were continu- ally arising in regard to the cutting of timber, and in many cases, the encroachments thereon by the unauthorized occu- pancy of portions of same by individuals.
As may be imagined, dissatisfaction developed into antag- onism, and the controversies became frequent and embittered, and continued until 1743, when an agreement was effected in following terms:
"It is agreed by and between all and every the parties to these presents, that whatsoever part of the common and undi- vided lands have been taken by them, or either of them, at any time heretofore taken up, used or claimed, and added to their patented or purchased lands, shall forever after be deemed taken and adjudged, and shall remain and continue in common till a division be made of the said common and undivided lands."
They likewise determine upon a survey under certain specified conditions, each one agreeing to pay for the survey of his own tract or grant. But the Dutch settler esteemed the solid earth as the safest and most valuable investment, and
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consequently his desire to become possessed of his portion, and to make that portion as extensive as possible, led him some- times to reach out beyond the limits of ordinary prudence and justice.
It will be recollected that in the early days the houses of the settlers were in compact towns or villages like Bergen and Communipaw, while the farm lands extended out into the "Buy- ten Tuyn," or outside gardens.
These farms were very indefinite as to boundaries, and difficulties were constantly arising from the alleged encroach- ments of adverse claimants. Likewise the lands not so appropri- ated were held in common and were known as the "Common Lands," and the owners of the several tracts of ground appro- priated had an inalienable right of forage and pasturage in such lands.
This right had existed from the early settlement of Bergen, and the inhabitants of that town and of Communipaw waged a merry war over their respective rights of pasturage. In an ad. of William Bayard, for renting the "Island of Hobuck," Dec. I, 1760, this right is alluded to as enhancing the value of the farm, in following terms:
"This farm has a right, in Bergen Commons, to turn out what cattle you please, and be supplied with timber for fenc- ing and firing," and continues: "It is finely supplied with fish and oysters in great abundance all around it, and scarce any- thing in America can equal its convenience for marketing, as in good weather you may cross, taking one time with another, in one-half hour."
The right, however, to an indiscriminate use of the Com- mon Lands led to much waste and unneccessary destruction, and legislative action was determined on "for settling the claims to the Commons, as the respective portions in which the same ought to be divided."
Nothing definite was accomplished until 1764, when, com- missioners having been appointed, notice was published as follows:
"Whereas, by a late law of the province of New Jersey, entitled 'An act appointing a commission for finally settling and determining the several rights, titles, and claims to the Common Lands of the township of Bergen, and making parti- tion of same,' do hereby give notice that at ten o'clock in
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the forenoon of March 6th next, at the house of Stephen Bour- dett at Weehawken, we will meet to survey, run out, and as- certain as well the bounds and limits of the said township of Bergen, as well as the bounds of each and every grant con- tained within the limits thereof, and all persons are requested to produce their original deeds, patents, or claims before the 2 Ist day of February next."
In order to defray the expenses attending such partition, a farm of about 350 acres of land was advertised for sale. On the 16th October the Commissioners met and made the allot- ment that forever settled the strifes and controversies in rela- tion to the land titles. They were given full power to hear, and finally determine, according to their dis- cretion, the claims of said inhabitants, which determination was final and "included all persons whatsoever." This com- mission was duly executed, field books and maps were made, and the titles and bounds to all lands became thereby definitely settled. The determinations of these commissioners with their field books have since been accepted as the foundation of all land titles in the county.
This happy settlement of a long-continued and vexing problem was received by the burghers with relief and satisfac- tion, and they settled down to the routine of an ordinary hum- drum life. Through their thrift and industry the hills and fertile fields responded with a wealth and abundance of products, for which a ready market was found in the neighboring city : to the wharves of which the heavy-laden periauguas plied their way under the guidance of the skilful skipper, ofttimes accom- panied by his "gut haus vrouw," who was just as eager to en- joy the delights of shopping and bartering, as the modern dame to secure the advantages of the bargain counter.
In this strenuous, bustling age, we can scarce realize the quietude and conservatism of those early days, before the bit- ter strife of struggling humanity had robbed life of the peace- ful contentment that enveloped it. And so that we may the better appreciate the then-existing conditions, we must blot out all these busy activities by which we are surrounded, and hark back to the time when our river flowed by in its limpid purity, and an atmosphere of quiet and contentment brooded over the land.
At Hoboken the prominent headland of Castle Point pro-
jected out into the bay, forming to the north Weehawken Cove. To the south the river-bank curved inward to Newark Street and Willow Avenue, continuing thence with a south- easterly trend, it swept by the Van Vorst bouwerie at Fifth and Henderson Streets to the point of Paulus Hook. *
Below this point a similar sweep formed the South Cove to Cavan Point and gave to Communipaw its famed harbor and fisheries. From thence southward the shore again curved in- ward to Constable Hook and Kill von Kull.
Now; where the aristocratic Bayard was lazily wafted over the bay in his luxuriantly appointed periaugua, are the mas- sive storehouses and docks of the German steamship compan- ies, while where mine host Van Vorst's porch-whose steps were almost lapped by the wavelets of the river-afforded him a clear view of the river and city beyond, now loom up great warehouses and factories, fringed by a cordon of railroad wharves, whose serrated fronts have advanced many hundred feet into the bay.
At Communipaw the faint outline of the original shore may be seen, half hidden by the debris left by the onward march of improvement, and but a few short months will inter- vene before this too will be blotted out, and the outer pier line established upwards of three thousand feet to the eastward.
At Constable Hook and vicinity, the Standard Oil Corpora- tion has completely obliterated all semblance of the colonial conditions. (Maps showing changes in shore lines filed in Historical Society rooms.)
Nor are the physical changes the only ones to be observed : for until long after the Revolution, the Dutch inhabitants of this territory retained the customs and habits of the fatherland, and the hearty greetings in the familiar Dutch vernacular heard on every side, strengthened the illusion, that here had been transported a bit of the land of dykes and windmills.
Although a different element had come in at Castle Point through the Bayard family, their frivolities and extravagances failed to seduce these easy-going denizens from the even tenor of their way. And although but a short distance away: that typical old Dutchman Van Vorst withstood all the allurements
*From about Hudson and Essex Streets to Phillips Street and Johnston Avenue, and continuing southward along Phillips Street to Standard Oil Property.
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of his aristocratic neighbor, and indulged in his inherited meth- ods of enjoyment with wonted zest and true Dutch enthusiasm.
He was a kindly old soul, combining the shrewdness and thrift of the Dutch burgher, with a love of recreation that re- lieved his life from the dull routine and monotony, that too of- ten saps the life energy of the tiller of the soil. He was a man of stalwart frame and ruled over his domain like some feudal lord. A stern, uncompromising supporter of what he consid- ered was just and right, he could not brook the cruelty and in- justice that sometimes marred even the recreations of the day : and he frequently rescued the negroes from the rough treat- ment of unduly exhilerated roysterers, to whose propensities he had freely ministered through the love of sport that domin- ated him. He was a lover of fine horses, and woe betide the careless groom who in the least neglected the toilet of these cherished animals. Nothing gave him so great delight and satisfaction as to drive about the surrounding country and lis- ten to the hearty encomiums of his neighbors upon the "luister" of his team. In order to enlarge his facilities for indulgence in this recreation, he laid out a race-course on the sand-hills scarce half a mile from his residence, which was greatly appre- ciated by the sporting element of the day, as is shown through the numerous ads. and newspaper extracts.
August 14, 1769, it is announced that "Races at Paulus Hook begin the 9th of October," and that "Good crafts will be ready at each ferry to convey over all persons who incline to see the races." These races attracted crowds from the neigh- boring city, and here frequently his Dutch neighbors congre- gated to test the vaunted powers of some farm-horse that had developed a dislike for the slow-going routine of his owner. Van Vorst was always present at these meetings and infused his enthusiasm into his staid neighbors to such good purpose, that often during the still hours of the night, the shrill tongue of some long-suffering "haus vrouw" could be heard denounc- ing in unmeasured terms the folly of her drowsy partner.
Van Vorst's possessions were separated from the mainland by the Mill Creek: a stream of goodly size that wound its tort- uous way from the bay at about the present intersection of Johnson Avenue and Phillips Street, and thence in a northerly direction crossing present Grand street, about 150 feet east of Pacific Avenue, continuing thence still northerly through the
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marsh to the Point of Rocks, the present site of the Pennsyl- vania Railroad roundhouse, and along the base of the hill, around back of Aharsimus Cove, meeting the waters of a creek emptying into the bay at Hoboken.
This stream was of great advantage to the old Dutch resi- dents for readily transporting their farm products to the mar- kets of New York. A favorite landing place was at Newark Avenue where the West Shore freighthouse now stands, and also at the bridge that crossed the stream near Prior's Mill, that stood about the present junction of Fremont Street and Railroad Avenue. Perhaps we may better realize the import- ance of this stream by inserting following ad. :
"IIth October, 1770, to be sold .- A large white wood periaugua 5 years old, now in good order, with a new suit of sails. She is 32 feet long and 7 feet wide. Suitable for a miller or farmer. She now lies at Prior's Mill, in Bergen, where any person may view her."
It has been stated that the inhabitants of this territory ac- cepted the change of government without demur. And why not! True, they were living under English rule, but were they not breathing a Dutch atmosphere? Not only were their property rights guaranteed, and their freedom to worship in accordance with the rites and forms of the religion of the fatherland secured to them; but the use of their cherished language was not interdicted. What wonder, then, that for many years after the tide of emigration swept over the land, changing and in some instances completely obliterating the racial characteristics: Hudson County remained loyal to the fatherland, and its inhabitants dwelt together a community of their own, undisturbed by the strifes and turmoils of the out- side world.
In these strenuous times we can scarcely realize the quie- tude and familiar intercourse of those early days. During the years immediately following the definite settlement of the gov- ernment of the province, the country was in a state of gradual evolution. The uncertainty attendant upon the tenure of land and the rights and privileges of the settlers, was dispelled through the wise action of Governor Carteret, as has been shown, and the building up of their homes became the sole en- deavor of the sturdy settlers.
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For many years there was scarce anything to disturb the quiet save ordinary neighborhood differences, or the usual events connected with the progress of human life. Deaths, marriages, and births occurred in turn, and we learn through scanning the records of the olden time that after all, human na- ture has not so greatly changed.
The virtues of the departed were descanted on with con- siderable verbosity, and so greatly overshadowed the faults and peccadillos that flesh is heir to, that even the nearest rela- tives had difficulty in recognizing the word-picture presented by the worthy preacher. It would seem as though the sea of. matrimony is in all ages liable to be ruffled by storms of pas- sion and incongruity. The wedding ceremony was performed with solemnity and often conducted with unusual and prolonged jollification, but with a tenure just as uncertain as at the pres- ent time.
November 25, 1751, we read that a marriage had taken place between a widower of 8 months and a widow of 35 years (giving names). "The ceremony was performed with the ut- most solemnity before a very crowded audience." In March following, four months after, we learn "That the above parties have ever since lived in the happy enjoyment of each other for the most part until the 9th of this month, when by consent of both parties, in the presence of a number of spectators, after having given security never to be burdensome to each other, as likewise for their loyalty while absent, parted never to meet again in the state of matrimony. What the cause was we know not, but some who pretend to know, say they had not courted long enough before marriage.
We likewise find a number of advertisements cautioning tradespeople against trusting runaway wives on the advertiser's account. An aggrieved wife retaliates by stating in the public print that "the expense of advertising her was unnecessary, for no one could be found who would trust the advertiser him- self in the slightest degree."
We will close this chapter on human frailty by quoting the exaggerated wail of a poor disciplined soul, who unwittingly ex- poses her own weakness while expatiating upon the faults of her husband. And yet her sufferings seem to have been com- pensated for through the great felicity of her after experience. "You must understand that I have for some years past
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borne with uncommon patience the lashes of an ill-natured husband who constantly made it a practice to stay at a slop- shop till he had drowned his senses in rum, his darling delight: and then I must stand clear, for the merciless wretch would spare neither my tea cups or saucers to throw at my head, be- sides whipping of me: but he always had compassion on the rum glasses which stood close by them; and though we have had but two of those glasses for these eight or ten years, yet they have lived to see as many dozen tea cups and saucers broke over my head, for he says, if I can't drink my tea out of those glasses I shall go without, which I had rather not do, for I should imagine I was drinking rum instead of tea.
"I will have tea cups and saucers, for I must own I love tea as well as he loves rum. My case being happily noised abroad induced several generous young men to disci- pline him. These young persons are styled Regulators, and so they are, with propriety, for they have regulated my dear husband and the rest of the bad ones hereabouts, that they are afraid of using such barbarity.
"And I must with pleasure acknowledge that since my husband has felt what whipping was: he has entirely left off whipping me, and promises faithfully he will never begin again, which I have reason to believe. There never was a better har- mony subsisting between man and wife than there is at present betwixt us, and we are as happy as we were in our courting days.”
Perhaps we may find it restful and refreshing, as well as interesting, to turn aside from the busy bustling energy of to- day and contrast with it the quiet, easy-going conservatism of the "olden time," and those who have in late years experienced the nervous tension induced through a departure for a transat- lantic voyage, might well long for a few breaths of the somno- lent atmosphere that enveloped the travelers whose experience is here related. The manuscript is entitled "Journal of Our Voyage to New Netherland, begun in the name of the Lord and for His glory the 8th day of June, 1679, and undertaken in the small flute ship Charles, of which Thomas Singleton was master, but the supreme authority over both ship and cargo was in Margaret Phillipse, who was the owner of both, and with whom we agreed for our passage from Amsterdam to New
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York in New Netherland at 75 guilders for each person, paya- ble in Holland."
The travellers left the little settlement of Wieward in Friesland and set out for Amsterdam at four o'clock in the morning, so as to arrive in season to take the vessel which was scheduled to sail the next day. They travelled by canal boat and reached their place of destination at midnight the same day, and finding the vessel seemingly about to sail, entered into negotiations with Margaret, as she is designated, for pas- sage as already intimated.
Margaret was a good type of the much-prized "ondersteu- neun vrouw." Active, ambitious, and energetic, she was pos- sessed of a native shrewdness and business tact that could not be surpassed even in these days of the new woman. She was a notable person in her time, the daughter of one Hardenbrook, who, as related, "was settled at Bergen opposite to New Am- sterdam." Her first husband was a prominent merchant in that city, and she threw into his business all the Dutch thrift and energy she had inherited, to such good purpose that wealth flowed in upon them. Whether the unflagging energy of the doughty Margaret excited in the mind of her partner the de- sire for a rest that was to him impossible under her continued activity, does not appear, but, whether wistfully or not, he laid down the burden and entered upon his long rest. She continued the business with renewed energy, and after a decorous interval married one Frederick Phillipse, who through the fortune thus bestowed upon him became the possessor of the great Phillipse Manor in Westchester County, New York.
But to return to our travellers. After arranging for pass- age they remained at Amsterdam four days, and, having exhausted the attractions of that city, finding no evidence of immediate departure on the part of Margaret, they went on to the Texel, where the Charles was to take on additional cargo, consuming nine days more of anxious waiting before the ves- sel arrived. At last, on the 21st of June, they departed, beating along the coast to Falmouth, and one month later, on the 21st of July, set sail for the new world.
On the 21st of September, or exactly three months after- wards, the Charles anchored in the lower bay of New York.
For lack of time we are unable to dwell upon the occur- rences of the voyage, which were many and varied, except to
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allude to the indignation of our passenger, as he relates the "penny wise and pound foolish," as he calls it, economy of the thrifty Margaret: how one Sunday "she stopped the ship on her course and endangered the lives of two men to save a worth- less mop which a girl, attempting to rinse out, had let fall into the sea."
On arrival in Manhattan they were guided by one of their fellow passengers who had returned from a short visit to the fatherland, and their passage was obstructed through the salutations of his many friends whom they met. They were given, to quote, "some of the fruit of the country, very fine peaches, and full-grown apples, which filled our hearts with thankfulness, and these were washed down with copious draughts of madeira."
"The next day was Sunday and we walked out a while in the fine morning air along the margin of the clear running water of the sea. Afterward, to avoid scandal and for other reasons, we turned into a church in the fort to hear a minister preach who had come from the up-river country, from Fort Or- ange, where his residence is, an old man named Dominie Schaats, of Amsterdam. We found in the church truly a wild, worldly world. I say wild, not only because the people are wild, as they call it in Europe, but because most all the people who go there to live, or who are born there, partake somewhat of the nature of the country."
In the afternoon they heard Dominie Nieuwenhuysen, and at the close of this service they were taken into a tavern "to taste the beer of New Netherlands."
"October 26th we crossed to Communipaw about noon. We found here a woman named Fitje, from Cologne. We found her a little pious after the manner of the country, and you could discover there was something of the Lord in her, but very much covered up and defiled. She has many grand-chil- dren, all of whom are not unjust. We continued our journey along a fine broad wagon road to the other village called Ber- gen, a good one-half or three-quarters of a mile inland, where the villagers, who are almost all Dutch, received us well and were rejoiced to see us."
The travellers were here hospitably entertained and re- late the efforts that were made for their accommodation and comfort, the cider and fine apples provided for their delecta-
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tion being worthy of special mention. The following day, be- ing desirous to return to the city, they found, as related "one who was anxious to cross, because he was going to bring back Dominie Tessemacher, who had promised to come next day and preach for them, for although there is a considerable con- gregation in this vicinity, and they are abundantly able to sup- port a minister, they have none, for it is not easy to obtain one, and there is no probability of their doing so as long as the country belongs to the English, though they intend to build a church next spring. For the present they have a voorleser who performs his service for them on Sundays in the school- house where they assemble."
The voorleser was a very important personage in those days. He was minister and chorister as well as sexton and undertaker. Except on the very infrequent occasions, when it was possible to secure a preacher from the neighboring city, he officiated at all religious gatherings, read sermons from the ponderous tomes selected and sent from Holland, intoned the Psalms and Hymns, and thundered forth the Dutch gutteral with appropriate emphasis, and after having ministered to the spiritual wants of the community while living, he deposited them in their last resting-place with becoming solemnity.
The Church was ever of supreme importance in the minds of the early settlers, and their first efforts were directed toward the erection of a suitable building in which to worship. The one they built, was for many years the only house of worship in Hudson County, and every Sabbath morning farm wagons and carryalls laden with devout worshippers, wended their way from all parts of the county to the sacred edifice.
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