USA > New Jersey > Passaic County > Paterson > Paterson, New Jersey : its advantages for manufacturing and residence: its industries, prominent men, banks, schools, churches, etc. > Part 19
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New York importing house what was then considered a large order for ribbons, the firm again started ribbon weav- ing. This venture, like the previous one, proved unprofit- able, but from this time forward they continued the manu- facture of ribbons until success rewarded their efforts and in the prosecution of this branch of their business they have from time to time made important additions in the way of new and improved machinery and appliances. Up to 1856 no other concern, excepting Andrae & Roth. of New York, is known to have made any attempts in this direction. The increasing business of Dexter, Lambert & Co. obliged them to provide added facilities for manufac- turing, to meet which they in 1856 commenced the erec- tion of a three-story brick mill 160x50 feet in Lennox street, Boston. In 1858 the firm had met with with suf- ficient encouragement to justify them in sending Mr. Bar- ton to England to purchase additional looms for ribbon weaving and other machinery and this plant was placed in the new mill, just erected.
Attracted by Paterson and its surroundings Mr. Lambert decided to make it his place of residence and in 1861 with this view he purchased his present country residence at South Paterson, then known as the James Close homestead, removing thereto in that year. A desire to have the man- ufactory nearer to New York and under his personal sup- ervision, the low price of real estate and the advice of Mr. Robert Hamil and other friends were the considerations which induced Mr. Lambert in 1866 to purchase a mill site on the east side of Straight street and thereon erect the Dexter mill, a three story brick building, 220x50 feet, with detached buildings for engine and dye houses. The re- moval of the firm's machinery to Paterson was followed by the gradual withdrawal of their stock and closing up of outside stores and the concentration of their merchandiz- ing in New York. To describe the various cotton, worst- ed and silken fabrics manufactured by this firm during the years they have been in business would be impossible. The vagaries of fashion or the demand of the times have dictated and controlled their production. For instance, during the early days of the war of the rebellion, they were largely engaged in the manufacture of military trimmings ; in fact, there is no article that could be fashioned from cotton, worsted or silk but has at some time or another been made by them. They have manufactured cords, gimps, braids and tassels for every conceivable purpose ; all kinds of fancy headgear, hair nets, chignons, false curls ; an endless assortment of neckwear; articles for manufacturing telegraph supplies, for the manufacture of artificial flowers, for theatrical costumers' and for printers' use ; coach lace and other trimmings for carriage manu- facturers ; picture and blind cords, gimps, tassels and other articles used for furniture and house decorations by up- holsterers ; trimmings for undertakers, tailors, hatters, fur- riers, milliners and for dress and cloak makers. They have manufactured chenille, velvet, beaded, braided, em- bossed, watered and every current variety of trimming in vogue during the three last decades. The manufacture of
ladies' dress trimmings was for many years a leading branch of the business, but of late it has been neglected and attention given to ribbon weaving, which has grown to be one of the most important departments of the busi- ness. But to Mr. Lambert's foresight and sagacity is due one of the most important additions to the business of the house. In 1874 that gentleman while in England pur- chased a plant of power looms which were shipped to Pat- erson and set up in the mill in the space which had been heretofore used as the trimming department. With these looms the firm commenced the weaving of broad fabrics and from time to time they have made additions to the plant until the broad silk weaving equals any department of their business and since 1874 the weaving of "cut up" fancies and dress brocades has been their great specialty.
In 1877 the business was enlarged by the purchase of A. Soleliac & Son's plant of ribbon looms and throwing ma- chinery. These were kept at work in the Dale mill, their original location, until July, 1879. The spring of 1879 witnessed another addition through the purchase of the Sterrett, Ryle & Murphy plant of ribbon looms. Decem- ber, 1878, found Mr. Lambert engaged in making prepa- rations for the erection of the third, and up to that date, the largest mill, having purchased from the Society for Es- tablishing Useful Manufactures a block of land containing about two acres on the west side of Straight street, bound- ed by the Erie railway, Clay, Straight and Taylor streets. He proceeded to erect thereon a handsome structure. It is 100x75 feet, two stories, with pressed brick front The main entrance to the works, the private office, the count- ing room and the general offices are in the southern por- tion. This mill was completed and occupied about July 1, IS79, and the removal and placing therein of the outlying plants of machinery enabled the firm to concentrate their hitherto scattered business under one management. The building, constructed after a design of and under the per- sonal supervision of Mr. Lambert, has become generally known as the Lambert Mill, notwithstanding Mr. Lam- bert's objection to naming buildings, &c., after those who are still in the land of the living.
The lack of sufficient machinery to throw enough silk for the requirements of the firm's business obliged Mr. Lambert to take measures to supply the deficiency. After a careful consideration of the subject he decided on a new departure which was to secure a site and erect a mill in. some locality where he could obtain ample water power and secure absence of competition for operatives ; a place where the advantages of a large industry and the money which it circulated would be appreciated. Hawley, Pa., was selected as possessing the advantages sought for, and here Mr. Lambert purchased a tract of land lying along the Wallenpaupack river, a stream which divides Wayne and Pike counties, and which at this point is a series of falls and cascades, marvellously beautiful and well worth a long journey to see. On the Wayne county side of the river, upon the rocks at the head of the falls, Mr. Lambert, early in ISSo, proceeded to erect his fourth aud largest silk mill.
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The mill is in shape an elongated parallelogram, broken by a square projection in the front centre ; its dimensions are 3Sox44 feet, the centre projection being SoxSo feet. The firm subsequently, in ISS7, also erected another mill of considerable proportions in Honesdale, Pa.
HOPPER & SCOTT .- Among the silk manufacturers of Paterson none have established a better character for energy and business faculty than the firm of Hopper & Scott. The firm started into business in 1879, occupying one floor of the old Hope mill, and operating 1,200 spindles. They devoted themselves exclusively to the throwing of tram and organzine and in a very short time had so great a demand for their work that they could not possibly keep up with it with their limited facilities. They purchased the entire Hope mill property in 1886. and in 1SS7 erected another sub- stantial mill on it, covering the available ground in front as well as the raceway of the Society for Establishing Use- ful Manufactures. The firm to-day operates 11,000 spind- les. giving employment to ISo hands, and having an an- nual capacity of 100,000 pounds of organzine and tram. The success of the firm is due to the systematie arrange- ment which prevails in every part of the mill and to the energy and knowledge of the business on the part of the firm. The original firm was composed of John H. Hop- per and Robert W. Scott. The latter died in February. 1890, and Mr. Hopper purchased his interest.
JOHN H. HOPPER was born in the city of Paterson in IS41, being the son of Judge John Hopper. He has al- ways been prominent in business and social affairs in Pat- erson and is one of the trustees of the Free Public Libra- ry, and Quartermaster of the First Battalion.
THE WILLIAM STRANGE SILK COMPANY .- One of the largest silk manufacturing establishments in the country is that of the William Strange Company. Its origin dates back to 1863, when the firm of Strange & Brother-E. B. and Albert B. Strange-who had for thirty years done a silk importing business in New York, established a small mill in Williamsburgh. The firm had no intention of going into the silk manufacturing business but had found that frequently certain shades and qualities of silk ribbons were called for in the trade which had not been imported ; to send for such goods to Europe would consume consid- erable time and so for the purpose of better accommodat- ing their customers the firm set up forty looms to furnish goods which might be ordered and not found in stock. The enactment of the high tariff during the last years of the war and the consequent high rate of exchange induced the firm to seriously consider the question of manufactur- ing silk on an extensive scale. In IS6S the firm removed its machinery to Paterson and silk manufacturing was begun here under the firm name of William Strange & Co., Mr. E. B Strange having devoted himself exclusively to importing and Mr. A. B. Strange having turned the business of manufacturing over to his son. although still retaining an interest in the industry. Mr. William Strange devoted himself to a thorough understanding of the business and with characteristic energy soon mastered
it in every branch. The firm had found considerable dif- ficulty in obtaining tram and organzine and for the pur- pose of being independent of all other similar establish- ments imported a quantity of silk throwing machinery from England. This together with the looms removed from Williamsbingh was placed in the Greppo mill on Slater street and Dale avenue ; the mill was subsequently enlarged but the additions did not keep pace with the demand for the product of the establishment and in 1874 the firm purchased the mill of the American Velvet Com- pany on Essex and Madison streets. The prosperity of the silk industry induced the firm to materially increase the size of the mill ; building after building was added and then joined together until in 187S the firm had a mill ex- tending for two hundred feet on each of three streets, hav- ing a depth of forty- five feet on Essex street, forty-five feet on Beech street, forty feet on Madison street. and fifty feet on the north, the whole establishment being in the shape of a hollow square. In ISS3 another addition was erected to the mill in the shape of a wing on Beech street ; this addition is two hundred feet front on Beech street, forty- eight feet deep. three stories high and built of brick in conformity with the rest of the establishment. The mill is complete in every particular, every branch of silk manu- facture, from the winding of the raw silk to the finishing of the product, being carried on under one roof. The firm employs about eight hundred and fifty hands. In ISS7 the firm was incorporated under the laws of New Jersey and it at present consists of Messrs. William Strange, William C. Kimball, Charles H. Pinkham, Jr., William H. Macy, Jr., Richard Muser.
HAMIL & BOOTH .- There is perhaps no firm of silk manufacturers who have been more successful than Hamil & Booth. The progress has been uniform throughout the years of the existence of the house and from a very humble beginning the firm has attained a position in the front rank of American silk manufacture. The concern was started in June, 1855, in the top floor of the Beaver mill, about twenty hands being employed. The firm was composed of Robert Hamil and James Booth. The product was fringe-silk and soon the demand for it induced the firm to look for more commodious quarters which they found in the second floor of the Star mill. In IS58 they leased the second floor of the Murray mill and had about a hundred and fifty hands in their employ. Here they remained for four years when they purchased a silk mill on Ward street, near Railroad avenue ; the mill was equipped with ma- chinery but most of this was removed, it not being of the most approved pattern. The mill was one hundred and thirty feet by forty-five, built of brick, two and a half stories high. The firm continued throwing silk until 1868, when they purchased a number of looms and began weav- ing. In the meantime they had increased the depth of their mill by twenty fect. In ISto they erected a frame building, twenty-five by one hundred feet, two stories high. In 1873 their present office was put up, thirty-five by forty-five feet. three stories high. In IS74 they began
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the erection of another addition of brick, three stories, forty-five by seventy-five feet In 18go the capacity of the mill was further increased by the extension of the building through to Railroad avenue : the addition is of brick, three stories high and one hundred and eighty feet long. In the meantime the firm had acquired another valuable mill property on the corner of Market and Mill streets, fifty- seven by one hundred and ninety feet ; this property was bought in IS72 and had previously been used as a cotton mill. The firm now manufactures all kinds of silk and does its own throwing. Over a thousand hands are em- ployed. The firm has always been prominent for the novelty and tastefulness of its designs, continually surpris- ing the buyers. Mr. Hamil died September 11, ISSO. Since that time the business has been continued by his rep- resentatives and Mr. Booth.
THE RAMSAY & GORE MANUFACTURING COMPANY commenced April ist, 1886, with a small plant of 1,700 spindles ; this in a very short time was too small to meet their growing business. Not being able to find space to put in more machinery they leased the plant of Spanton & Palmer and for eighteen months ran it until they put into operation more spindles. In ISSS they bought the Empire mill in Green street. fitted it up and put in a new engine and boiler, where to-day they run eleven thousand spindles, as well as their original plant of 1,700 spindles in the Watson building ; this plant has also grown to be inadequate to meet the ever increasing demand for their work.
The firm have made a specialty of crape twists. They enjoy the reputation of having a thoroughly organized and fully equipped throwing factory, employing only skilled workers. The greatest possible good feeling prevails be- tween the workers and the firm ; about 200 hands are em- ployed there and no unpleasantness has arisen since they started in business. Their success has been very marked and rapid, from 360 pounds of silk per week to 3,000 lbs. per week. The Ramsay & Gore Manufacturing Company have fully demonstrated that in Paterson "throwing" can have a place, for plans are on hand for an extension of their already large factory. .
John Ramsay, the senior member of the firm, was born in Glasgow, Scotland ; his early years were devoted to the study of mining, but that not agreeing with his desires he entered into manufacturing and for fourteen years filled suc- cessfully a responsible position in the largest weaving es- tablishment in Glasgow ; here he acquired a knowledge of manufacturing in all its branches, which laid the founda- tion of his success in this country. He came to America in 1879, and started as foreman in the throwing department of the William Strange Company ; not having seen silk, nor having had any experience in throwing he encountered many difficulties, but with a determination characteristic of Scotchmen he commenced a study of silk and silk throwing so that he might acquire a thorough, practical and techni- cal knowledge of it in all branches. After close study for six years he accomplished his end. Every day's observa-
tions and experiences were carefully noted down and ap- plied, so that at the completion of his six years study he had accumulated sufficient in writing to run a series of twenty-three articles in the American Silk Journal, on "Silk," "Silk Throwing" and "Silk Throwing in Relation to Weaving." Mr. Ramsay has for seven years held in his own house a small technical school ; it was open to all young men who had a desire to learn "silk throwing." Many took advantage of it and now fill important posi- tions ; he has always taken a deep interest in young men, and has never turned any one away who has applied for in- struction in throwing.
Mr. Ramsay, although busy with the cares of a large mill, finds time still to devote to his favorite study, viz : "Silk Throwing," and is now busy preparing a work for publication on that subject, believing as he does in the im- perative necessity of a technical education for the develop- ing of the American silk industry ; to that end he labors that some day a technical evening school may be establish- ed for those young men who have shown their capacity and ability to excel in one department of silk ; such an in- stitution would be of incalculable advance to all concerned in the silk industry.
Mr. Thomas E. Gore, the junior member of the firm, was born in Paterson, N. J , and has been in the city all his life ; his first start at work was office boy for Mr. John Ryle, father of the silk industry ; having served in that humble position for a few months he was transferred to the spinning room, where for a short time he was a bobbin boy, and then to the deckers, and ever after he has worked in the mills until he became foreman in the William Strange Company's mill. It was while he was foreman that he joined Mr. Ramsay to form the present firm. Mr. Gore for five years was an ardent student of silk throwing, he being associated with Mr Ramsay in his technical stud- ies. Ile was one of the most faithful and attentive of men. devoting his whole time to the internal workings of the large mills ; by giving his attention to all the branches of throwing he has done much to further the interests of this successful firm. Mr. Gore's life long connection with throwing has qualified him to contribute to the reputation and success of the firm of which he is a member.
THE PHOENIX MANUFACTURING COMPANY .-- Among the oldest, largest, strongest and most energetic industrial establishments of Paterson is the Phoenix Manufacturing Company, engaged in the manufacturing of silk fabrics of different character. The charter of the Phoenix Manufac- turing Company was granted by the State of New Jersey in IS24 and is one of the few charters in existence in the State of the broad and comprehensive nature that charac- terized charters granted in the early days, and is irrepeal- able and unchangeable except as might be desired by its owners.
The company was originally formed for the manufactur- ing of cotton goods, and for many years in the clipper-built ships which carried the American flag all over the world, in the days when American sea commerce was of greater
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relative proportions than now, the sail cloths made by the Phoenix Manufacturing Company were the standard arti- cles used for these white winged ships. With the decline of the cotton industry in Paterson and its gradual transfer to the East, as it became superseded by the finer industry of silk, the Phoenix Manufacturing Company drifted at about the beginning of the war, through the manipulations of Messrs. B. B. Tilt and Albert Tilt. into the exclusive production of silk.
Mr. B. B. Tilt, as far back as in 1835, was of the firm of Tilt & Dowell, and afterwards Tilt & Dexter, in Boston and New York, in the production of gum silks and trim- mings. He came to Paterson in 1860 and occupied a por- tion of the Phoenix mill proper and afterwards additional rooms in the Beaver mill and the old Watson mill. In 1861, by the admission of his son into partnership, the firm became B. B. Tilt & Son and the business was thenceforth largely developed from the manufacturing of gum silks and sewing silks into dress goods in 1870. In 1865, the firm having obtained control of a majority of the shares became the owners of the charter and properties of the Phoenix Manufacturing Company. This gave them abundant room, splendid water-power and the best of facilities in their line of manufacture. The company was among the first to adopt the use of power looms, and hay- ing acquired with the Phoenix Company's property the machine shop which was the original plant operated for many years by John E. Van Winkle and his son Henry, began thenceforth to make their own looms and have con- tinued since to make the power dress goods looms and rib- bon looms required for the gradual development of the busi- ness. In ISSo the company established the Adelaide silk mill at Allentown and in 1885 doubled the capacity of that plant. In ISSS they established the Tilt silk mill at Potts- ville. The raw silk is thrown at Pottsville, woven in plain fabrics at Allentown and in finer Jacquard and fancy work, the most advanced stages of the business, at Pater- son. In the three places the company occupies more than three hundred thousand square feet of floor space, equal to about seven acres, and operates over one thousand looms, and employs, when running at full capacity, about two thousand people, being undoubtedly, in its line of hard silk manufacture, the largest organization in the country and one of the most important factors in the production of the great aggregate of nearly seventy millions of dollars produced in the combined output of the silk manufactur- ing establishments of America
The products of the Phoenix Manufacturing Company are of a most diversified nature ; comprising. perhaps, a greater variety than that of any other establishment, and including plain dress goods of all kinds. and the most elab- orate brocaded products of the same class, handkerchiefs, mufflers, gauze and pongee goods, ribbons, tailors' linings and silk braids.
The selling agents of the company are Greeff & Co., 22-26 Greene street, New York, an old established firm, three generations in existence, of the strongest financial
ability and highest commercial standing. The trade marks, or brands, of the articles produced by the Phoenix Manufacturing Company have an established and most fav- orable reputation all over America, and are quoted as staple and standard criterions of the different classes which they represent. Like all silk manufacturers in America, the Phoenix Company was compelled to combat the prejudice in the markets of this country in favor of imported silks. Many manufacturers were actually compelled to imitate foreign labels on the goods in order to effect sales under American tickets. The Phoenix Company pursued the plan of making strictly meritorious goods and placing them on sale under distinctive American labels, in the belief that people would sooner or later appreciate proper- ly real merit, no matter under what brand or wherever the goods might be manufactured, and that the sooner the pub- lic ascertained that silk goods could be made in this coun- try equal, if not superior, to those of foreign production and sold for less money, the better it would be for the do- mestic silk industry. The result has been a constantly growing and healthy demand for goods that can be guar- anteed of American manufacture. and under the wise policy of a protective tariff. silk fabrics of nearly all kinds are made in this country and sold for less money than the imported articles of similar construction.
The company has received highest awards for the excel- lence of its products at the Philadelphia International Ex- position in 1576 and the great French Exposition of 1878, and many other industrial exhibitions of similar character.
The present officers of the company are. Albert Tilt, president and treasurer ; Joseph W. Congdon, vice presi- dent ; John R. Curran, secretary. The management of the Phoenix mills in Paterson is, and has been for many years, in the hands of Mr. John C. Dowell ; in Allentown Mr. Louis Soleliac is the manager of the Adelaide mills, and in Pottsville Mr. J. M. Harris is the manager of the Tilt mills.
Notwithstanding the great and unusual depression that has characterized the silk business for the past six months, the Phoenix Maufacturing Company has been able to keep the greater portion of its looms in full operation, and there is no doubt that in the future the same energy and execu- tive ability will continue the company in the success and importance which have characterized it since the days when B. B. Tilt & Son came to control it and which has been continued under the most able management of Mr. Albert Tilt, the president, and his assistants.
DOHERTY & WADSWORTH .- The success of this firm presents one of the most remarkable and gratifying in- stances of what can be accomplished by men who thor- oughly understand their business and add to this knowl- edge energy, industry and fair dealing with all. Less than a decade ago the number of looms they operated could be counted on the fingers of one hand ; to-day they rank among the first and most important silk mannfactur- ers of this country. They started into business in October, IS79, in a room on Market street in the building occupied
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