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F 802 S4 N55
B 850,657
SITY
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1
SCIENT
HIGAN
1817
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SANTA FE COUNTY
The Heart of New Mexico Rich in History and Resources
OF
NEW
OR
TERRIT
MEXICO
.
1850
Written by MAX. FROST and PAUL A. F. WALTER
Published by Authority of THE BUREAU OF IMMIGRATION OF NEW MEXICO
1906.
THE CAPITOL OF NEW MEXICO AT SANTA FE.
SANTA FE COUNTY.
Santa Fe County is the heart of New Mexico, geographically, geologically, ethnologically, climatologically, politically, ecclesias- tically and historically. It is an epitome of the Territory, and with- in its confines are exemplified the climatological conditions, the in- dustrial possibilities, the growth and the development of the entire Southwest. It is an oblong table land, almost seventy miles long from north to south, and thirty miles wide from east to west, at no point less than a mile above the level of the sea and reaching an elevation of almost two and a half miles in Mount Baldy. This tableland slopes from the northeast to the west and southwest. In its northeastern corner is massed the terminus of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the "Alps" of the Southwest. In its southwestern corner rise the Ortiz, the San Pedro and the South Mountains, less massive and less lofty, but very important geologically and mineralogically. This tableland is furrowed by a dozen rivers and scores of periodical streams and arroyos, all tributary to the Rio Grande system, although a massive backbone in the eastern por- tion sends some of the waters into the Pecos, which does not join the Rio Grande until after a course of nine hundred miles. Along these streams are fertile valleys, which attracted the Pueblos, and after them, the white settlers, hundreds of years ago. One- third of the area of the county consists of mountains and valleys, the other two-thirds are broad mesas, which furnish excellent range for stock. The settlements are found in the valleys which have been formed by the folds of the mountains or by the rivers eating : into the mesas and forming canons, most of them quite narrow.
15.1
From the summit of Mount Baldy the surface of the county pre- sents a panorama of mountains, mesas and valleys, with streams of water rushing down high mountain shoulders, over precipices and boulders into deep and narrow gorges and widening valleys, flashing in the sunlight like ribbons of silver in their race to the Rio Grande on the west, and with the mountain peaks of southern and northern New Mexico, swimming in the blue air of the dreamy distance. The main range of the Rockies, or the Sangre de Cristo system on the west shelters this favored locality from violent winds and renders the climate remarkably mild and equable considering
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168713
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VIEW TOWARD NORTHEAST FROM THE CAPITOL AT SANTA FE.
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5
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
that the altitude of the valley varies from 5,500 to 7,500 and more feet above sea level. This circumstance, together with the fertility of the soil, excellence of the water, plentitude of timber, and the many marked manifestations of rich veins and deposits of gold and silver-bearing mineral, prompted the intrepid - Spanish ex- plorers to locate a permanent colony and mission at Santa Fe, or the "City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis" as early as 1605.
The wisdom of this selection has been demonstrated during four: centuries which have since melted into the past. With the excep- tion of the twelve years following the bloody and transiently suc- cessful revolt of the Pueblo Indian's in 1680, Santa Fe has been ever recognized as one of the important outposts of civilization and commerce in the southwestern country, being continuously the political, ecclesiastical and military capital of this region, under both Spanish and Mexican rule, and, though it has seen the fron- tier line of the United States carried thousands of miles out into the Pacific Ocean, it still maintains its supremacy as the capital city of New Mexico, the county seat of Santa Fe County, and the most delightful residence city in the Rocky Mountains. Bathed in sunshine winter and summer, swept by fragrant breezes from the pine-clad hills, colored with the hues of the sunset, hallowed by the romance of the Cliff Dwellers, the Pueblos, the Conquista- dores and the Franciscans, amply watered by the "Nile" of New Mexico-the Rio Grande-and a score of its mountain tributaries, endowed with untold mineral wealth, Santa Fe County is an em- pire within itself, self-sustaining and self-sufficient, so far as min- eral wealth and resources are concerned. Nowhere else in the world is there found a more perfect climate, and but few sections can boast of a climate as good. It is not only a lovely day now and then, not only a fine summer or a pleasant winter, but a perfect all-the-year-round climate which is making this section the sani- tarium of the world, the refuge of those stricken by one or the other of the many forms of lung, throat and nervous troubles, and of invalids from other causes. It is this fact which must be borne constantly in mind when reading of Santa Fe County's resources, developed and undeveloped wealth, and its industries.
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THE MOUNTAINS.
The great bulwark of the Sangre de Cristo Range in the north- east is visible from every part of the county. The capital city of Santa Fe lies in its lap, for directly northeast of the town rises -
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Santa Fe Baldy to an altitude of 12,623 feet ; beyond looms its twin peak-Pecos Baldy-to 12,400 feet, while nearer to the city is Lake
X
HOLY GHOST LAKE.
7
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
Peak, 12,380 feet high, in whose finely formed crater nestles the Holy Ghost Lake, the source of the Santa Fe River. Nearer the city and directly east of it is Thompson's Peak, 10,546 feet high, and the Dalton Divide, over 10,000 feet high. Still nearer the town, in the same direction, is Talaya Mountain, almost 9,000 feet high. To the southeast are Penacho Peak, about 9,000 feet high, and the Glorieta Mountains. Still farther to the southeast is Escobas Peak, over 8,000 feet high. Far to the north, on the Taos County line, rises Cobra Negra, over 10,000 feet high, at the foot of which nestles Chimayo. Just across the county line and with foothills extending into Santa Fe County, are the Truchas Peaks, the highest in New Mexico, rising to elevations of 13,275, 13,140 and 13,060 feet respectively, and adjoining them is Jicarilla Peak, 12,944 feet high, while surrounding is a circle of peaks from 10,000 to 12,500 feet in altitude.
The Ortiz Mountains in the south, rise to 8,928 and 8,360 feet respectively, while a spur, standing like a sentinel toward the east and known as Lone Mountain, has an elevation of 7,310 feet. Just south of the Ortiz Mountains and separated from them by a narrow and picturesque valley are the San Pedro Mountains, rising in two peaks to 8,376 and 8,325. feet respectively, and at the foot of which lie the mining camps of Golden and San Pedro. South of the San Pedro Mountains stands South Moun- tain, over 8,000 feet high, from the foot of which stretches the beautiful Estancia Valley of 5,000 square miles. These mountains on their southern exposure are mottled like a snake.
Directly west of Santa Fe, but across the county lines of Sando- val and Rio Arriba, rise the Valles, the Cochiti and the Jemez Mountains, over 10,000 feet high, from the eastern base of which extend the broad mesas and flat-topped buttes of the Pajarito Cliff Dwellers' Park to the Rio Grande.
Inside of the county line, near the Rio Grande River, is an isolated extinct volcano, known as Tetilla, almost 7,000 feet high, while nearer the city of Santa Fe is an extinct volcano with a bottomless crater. The Rio Grande has eroded a deep canon in the northwestern part, known as White Rock Canon, whose walls at points are 1,500 or more feet high. Just north of Cerrillos are the Cerrillos Mountains, rising in three peaks to an elevation of 7,036, 6,980 and 6,500 feet respectively. Southwest of Galisteo is the Cerro Pelon, which juts into the Galisteo Plain and Divide like a bold promontory, although its height is only 6,874 feet. In the far southeastern corner of the county the Mesa de la Mula at-
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WHITE ROCK CANON.
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9
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
tains an elevation of 2,424 feet, and on the southern boundary El Cuervo Butte is 6,968 feet high.
These mountains, besides protecting the greater part of Santa Fe County from blizzards and sand storms, give an extensive drainage area. Most of them are wooded, therefore serving as water conser- vators, assuring to the county a perpetual water supply which will ultimately multiply the area under irrigation at least five times.
!
THE RIVERS.
The principal and only river system of the county is that of the Rio Grande, cutting across the northwestern part from Santa Clara, where the Espanola Valley begins to narrow, to the middle of White Rock Canon, opposite the Pajarito Canon, the lower half of the flow in the county being useless for irrigation purposes on account of the steep declivities of the White Rock Canon, making it, however, a good reservoir site owing to the river's strong and steady flow, which would prove invaluable for water power. The Santa Clara is the only important tributary of the Rio Grande in the county from the west. Its waters are utilized by the Indians of Santa Clara pueblo, the river being entirely confined to the Santa Clara Indian Reservation.
The most important, also the most northern tributary of the Rio Grande from the east in Santa Fe County, is the Santa Cruz, which drains the steep declivities of the Truchas and surrounding peaks It is formed by the junction of the Chimayo, the Rio Medio, the Panchuella and the Rio Chiquito. It flows in a general north- easterly direction to the point where it leaves the mountains at Potrero, thence westward to its junction with the Rio Grande. Irrigation along this stream is confined to that portion lying be- tween Potrero, where the valley widens, and the Rio Grande. The irrigated lands occupy the valley proper and extend almost con- tinuously on both sides of the river between the limits mentioned. The total acreage under ditch and served by the stream is 2,500, of which 900 acres are wholly within the upper portion of the Santa Cruz Valley. The remaining 1,600 acres, although drawing their water supply from the Santa Cruz, are really a portion of the Espanola Valley. The flow of the stream during the fall, winter and spring is large and is more than sufficient for all de- mands upon it. With storage, the area under irrigation could be greatly increased. There are several fine reservoir sites on the river. Several of these could be utilized at small expense.
To the south of the Santa Cruz is the Las Truchas, a stream
NAMBE FALLS.
11
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
with a very small flow, emptying into the Rio Grande near Santa Clara. Less than 200 acres are irrigated by the stream.
Next to the Santa Cruz, in volume of flow, is the Pojoaque, formed by the junction of the Tesuque and the Nambe Rivers. On the Pojoaque the irrigated lands are confined to the rich bot- toms on either side of the stream from a point half a mile above El Salto del Agua to the mouth of the river near San Ilde- fonso. At San Ildefonso the Indians have re-enforced their supply by bringing water from the Rio Grande through the Hobart Ditch. The total acreage under ditch is 1,200 acres, all of which is in cultivation. During the fall, winter and spring there is a large surplus of water which might be stored above El Salto del Agua at a small cost and would increase the irrigable area by at least 2,500 acres. In the Nambe are fine falls, which can be used for power purposes. It rises on and drains the slopes of the two Mounts Baldy, upon which snow is found the year round.
The Tesuque is formed by several forks draining the Lake Peak, the most important of which are Bishop's Creek, the large Box Canon and the small Box Canon. Several hundred acres are under cultivation along its course, and there is at least one excellent storage site along the stream. One of its tributaries is the Chupa- dero, along which, however, only small patches are under culti- vation.
South of the Tesuque is the Santa Fe River. It rises in Lake Espiritu Santo, under the crest. of Lake Peak, and, after flowing ten miles in a southwesterly direction through deep canons and over high precipices, veers to the west, and flowing nine miles further between canon walls, which widen at intervals, enters the Santa Fe Valley. Twenty-five miles from Santa Fe it empties into the Rio Grande, just north of Pena Blanca, its flow reach- ing the Rio Grande, however, only at flood times. Its waters have been in use for irrigation from the first settlement of the city by the Spaniards, indeed, even prior to that time by the Indians of the ancient pueblo which then did and had previously occupied the site of the present city. The irrigated lands are in two sec- tions, the first extending from Perry's Ranch, nine miles above Santa Fe, to Agua Fria, nearly six miles below, while the second extends from Cieneguilla to La Bajada, on the lower stretch of the river. On the upper section, in the canon above the reservoir of the Santa Fe Water and Light Company, irrigation is confined to small patches of land, the total area under ditch and in cultiva- tion amounting to about 100 acres From this point, to two miles below the city, the acreage under ditch is 2,400 acres, all of which
UPPER PECOS.
13
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
is in cultivation. About Agua Fria the area is 800 acres, making a total of 3,300 acres on the upper portions of the stream. From Cieneguilla to La Bajada, including La Golondrina Springs and Alamo, or Bonanza, the land does not depend upon the Rio Santa Fe for water, but upon springs, the flow of which is constant. The cultivation along the Rio Santa Fe is as intense and the duty of water higher, perhaps, than in any other section of the Territory. Many additional reservoir sites, however, are to be found in the Santa Fe Canon and tributary arroyos, and the amount of flood water annually running to waste is immense. In 1892-3 a dam was constructed across the river, north of Santa Fe, at the mouth of Santa Fe Canon with an impounding capacity of 500 acre-feet. Nevertheless, the annual surplus flow averages 2,500 feet, enough to supply five such reservoirs with water. The Rio Santa Fe has one important tributary, the Arroyo Hondo, along the headwaters of which irrigation is practiced to a limited extent, only about 200 acres being under cultivation. There are several excellent reser- voir sites on this stream, one of which has been surveyed. If con- structed, it will have sufficient storage capacity to irrigate 8,000 acres. of land. Its cost would be $15,000.
South of the Santa Fe is the Galisteo, which, in flood seasons, has a tremendous flow. Irrigation is at present confined to the upper portions of the stream and to small valleys opening into it, the greater area being in the vicinity of the settlement of Galisteo. From the head of the stream in the Glorieta Mountains to Cerril- los there are 1,200 acres under ditch, while on the San Cristobal, a tributary, 400 acres are cultivated.
There are several lesser streams, such as the Manzanares and the Canoncito, while along the San Miguel County boundary flows the Holy Ghost Creek, carrying a large volume of water. On this watershed also rise the Macho, the Dalton, the Indian Creek and other tributaries of the Pecos.
In this connection must be mentioned the underflow in all the river valleys and the ease with which water can be pumped from a small depth in many parts of the county, but especially in the valleys of the streams and arroyos. There can be no doubt that with the storing of flood waters and development of underflow and subterranean water courses, the area under irrigation in. the county could be increased with profit to 250,000 acres, equal to the entire area now under irrigation in the Territory.
SCENIC HIGHWAY.
5
15
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
AREA, RESERVES AND GRANTS.
The area of Santa Fe County is 1,980 square miles, and, except- ing Bernalillo County, it is the smallest of New Mexico's counties ; yet it is almost twice as large as the State of Rhode Island and as large as the State of Delaware. Of this area, 470,000 acres are subject to entry under the public land laws, 18,000 acres being still unsurveyed. Of the Pecos Forest Reserve, 200,000 acres are in the county. There are two Indian reservations, that of Santa Clara having an area of 33,000 acres, and that of Nambe with an area of 7,680 acres. In addition, there are six Pueblo Indian Grants-Pecos, partly in San Miguel County, 18,763 acres, now abandoned by the Indians and claimed by white settlers; Santa Clara, greater part in Rio Arriba County, 17,369 acres; Tesuque, 17,471 acres; San Ildefonso, 17,293 acres; Pojoaque, 13,520 acres, and Nambe, 13,586 acres.
Of the area appropriated to private uses, several hundred thou- sand acres are in so-called private land grants, several of them being already partitioned among many claimants, others sold or leased, while the remainder are on the market for sale or leasing. These grants, confirmed either by Congress or by the Court of Private Land Claims, are as follows, in acreage: San Cristobal, 81,032; Ortiz Mine Grant, 69,458; Mesita de Juana Lopez, 42,022; . Caja del Rio, 41,848; City of Santa Fe Grant, 23,040; Majada, 22,000; Lady of Light, 16,546; Pedro Sanchez, 15,502; Sebastian de Vargas, 13,434; Juana de Gabaldon, 8,149; San Pedro, 7,680; Town of Jacona, 6,952; Cieneguilla, 3,202; Santa Cruz, 3,067; Santo Domingo de Cundiyo, 2,037; San Marcos Pueblo, 1,895; Sitio de Juana Lopez, 1,085; Cuyamungue, 604; Pacheco, 581; Sitio de los Cerrillos, 512; Canon del Agua, 341; Talaya Hill, 319; Alamitos, 297; Santiago Ramirez, 272; Town of Galisteo, 260; Salvador Gonzales, 200; Vicente Duran de Armijo, 57. Title to these grants is perfect. The price of land ranges from $1 to $400 and $500 an acre, according to the nature of the soil, the water supply, improvements on land, proximity to settlements, and other factors that generally determine land values.
CLIMATE.
Its climate is Santa Fe County's special boast and pride. There are other portions of the Southwest which are blessed with climate far superior to the best climate found in the humid portions of the United States, but at and around Santa Fe the climatic con- ditions of the Southwest come nearer to perfection than anywhere else in the Rocky Mountain or Pacific Coast regions. An abso-
CAVE DWELLINGS WEST OF SANTA FE.
17
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
.
lutely perfect climate is unknown; there is not a country on the face of the earth that does not have either occasional sultry days or bitter cold nights; that does not at times have wind or dust storms or snow or rain, but Santa Fe suffers least from extremes, or storms, and a sultry day is practically unknown. Of course, its location in the arid West primarily determines the aridity and sunshine percentage; its altitude accounts for the lightness of the air; the many square miles of growing pinion, cedar, pine and spruce covering the landscape account for the fragrance and bal- sam of the atmosphere, and the city's sheltered location accounts for the small range in daily temperature so that even during the coldest days of winter the minimum temperature is milder than at points two or three hundred miles to the south and from 1,500 to 3,000 feet lower, and that at the same time in summer the maxi- mum is less than at Denver or at Colorado Springs, 400 miles to the . north. In fact, the protection to the City of Santa Fe by the sur- rounding hills and mountains is so complete that during both sum- mer and winter Santa Fe is acknowledged to be the best climatic resort in the Southwest.
Charles E. Linney, section director for New Mexico of the United States Weather Bureau, speaks as follows concerning Santa Fe's climate :
"It is easy to say that the climate of this or that place is the finest in the world; it is less easy to show reliable facts and figures to bear out the statement, and it is least easy to convince the self- satisfied public that some other spot can be, or is, the more favored; facts, however, if they are facts, should be given credence.
"It is with these barriers in view that a few facts and simple figures regarding the climate of central and northern New Mexico are presented, this vast empire being, in many respects, nicely typi- fied by Santa Fe, local contour, latitude and altitude being con- sidered. Discarding fractional finesse, the annual mean tempera- ture of Santa Fe, obtained from thirty-three years of carefully compiled records by the United States Weather Bureau, is 49 de- grees, a degree higher than that of Chicago, the same as that of Boston, a degree lower than Denver, 6 degrees cooler than Ashe- ville, North Carolina, which has the same latitude, 7 degrees cooler than St. Louis, and 20 degrees cooler than Jacksonville. This comfortable average, too, is the result of balancing 29 degrees, the coldest month (January) with 69 degrees, the warmest month (July). In thirty-two years the temperature has never risen to 100 degrees, the highest record being 97, in the month of August, 1878, and since the following year, it has mot touched 95 degrees;
SAN LUAL
PUEBLO OF SAN JUAN.
19
SANTA FE COUNTY, NEW MEXICO.
the average number of days each year with 90 degrees or higher is but two. The average daily maximum temperature, afternoon read- ing, of the warmest month, July, is but 81 degrees, while the average night temperature of this month is but 57 degrees, a sum- mer temperature far more comfortable than that of St. Louis, Washington, New York, Boston, Chicago, Denver or St. Paul, zero temperature being rarely recorded. Many winters pass without a record of zero temperature.
"The annual precipitation, including rain, snow, sleet and hail, is 14.3 inches; Denver, the same; Chicago, 34.8; St. Louis, 41.1; Asheville, 42.5; Washington, 44.8; Boston, 45, and Jacksonville, 54.1 inches. While the rainfall is low, it should be borne in mind that 62 per cent of the amount occurs in the spring and summer months, leaving the fall and winter months dry and invigorating. July is the wettest month, averaging 2.8 inches, while but .70 of an inch, or less, are measured in November, December, January, February and March. The average number of days with .01 of an inch or more of precipitation is 81, against 111 at St. Louis, 120 at Chicago, 121 at Boston, 122 at Washington, and 127 at Jack- sonville. These figures for Santa Fe, however, do not represent days with continuous rain, but rather days with showers of short duration, for a day with continuous rain is practically unknown.
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