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F 127 C72T7
BRIEF HISTORY
OF
CHEMUNG COUNTY
NEW YORK
Matthias Zollubach
BARNES' COUNTY HISTORY
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
CHEMUNG COUNTY NEW YORK
FOR THE USE OF GRADED SCHOOLS
By AUSBURN TOWNER
NEW YORK A. S. BARNES & COMPANY 1907
F 187
LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two Copies Received APK 80 1907 Copyright Entry eb, 27. 1907. CLASS A XXC., NO. 169601. COPY B.
COPYRIGHT 1907 BY A. S. BARNES & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
To the Children of Chemung County of whom I was one, I dedicate
this little book, with the wish that their lives may be as bright and sunny as was mine in "the dearest spot on Earth to me."
Ausburn Towner.
March; 1907.
INTRODUCTION
Local history is fleeting and evanescent. Events of one day, even considered of supreme importance at the time, are forgotten the next day, and soon drop into oblivion. Any effort to recall them, after years have passed, entails tireless and exhaustive research amongst the files of musty, old newspapers, private memoranda, public records, and, best of all; the interviewing and arousing the recollections of elderly persons, preferably ladies, for their memories are usually very retentive and are seldom found inaccurate. Very much that follows is from the remembrances of old ladies; who knew the country in their girlhood; when it was pretty much all woods and swamps. Interviews with them could only be characterized as delicious. If there could be repro- duced only one-half of all they have recalled, it would form a book many times the size of this, and if their names could be given; they would be recog- nized as belonging to some of the oldest and best- known families of the county.
Seldom does a company assemble socially for a quiet visit that the discussion of "old times" does not come up during the gathering; and those most eagerly listened to are the ones who can tell the most about the periods when our "grandfathers
ii
INTRODUCTION
lived." It is a subject not particularly valuable, perhaps with some exceptions, but always inter- esting and entertaining.
It will be found that children are always attracted toward subjects of this character, and it is safe to place such memories in their keeping. They can then tell all about their homes and the people dwell- ing thereabouts, and transmit their knowledge to an indefinite posterity. When they are fully in- formed concerning these matters in their own locali- ties, they will be prepared to enter with enthusiasm upon the study of the stories of the larger affairs of the world.
AUSBURN TOWNER.
PART I
The County and Valley during the closing years of the XVIII Century
But many of the fathers, who were ancient men, had seen the first house, when the foundation of this house was laid before their eyes .- EZRA, iii., 12.
His echoing axe the settler swung, Amid the sea-like solitude, And, rushing, thundering down were flung The Titans of the wood .- ALFRED B. STREET.
1
The Closing Years of the XVIII Century.
Beginning with a battle .- Chemung County; N. Y .; gets its name, as does the river that flows through it, from an Indian term meaning "Big Horn."1 It is situated in the southern part of New York State; on the borders of the State of Pennsylvania about half way between the eastern and western boun- daries of New York; in latitude 42ยบ N .; its western line being on the same meridian as that of Washing- ton; D. C., from which longitude is sometimes reckoned.
It is about 400 square miles in extent.
The whole section of the country in which the county lies was very little, if at all, known before 1779. It was introduced to the notice of the country and the world by a brisk and fierce, although brief battle, that was fought on the hillside three miles south of Elmira; on August 29 of the year named, between the American forces and the In- dians and Tories, in which the American forces were
1Two large tusks or horns, relics of long-past ages, were found embedded in the banks of the river. It is not known positively, at present, where these horns are now located, al- though one is said to be near Oswego, N. Y.
3
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF
victorious.' It is the most important event in the history of the county and one of the most important battles of the Revolutionary War. It broke entirely the power of the Indians in that region; who were the allies of the English. It also opened the country for settlers. General Sullivan found the fertile region occupied by a number of comfortable villages and there were great crops of corn, watermelons; and almost every kind of fruit just about ready to be gathered. In accordance with his orders he left it a waste and a wilder- ness.
Many of the soldiers engaged in the battle re- turned to the valley and made it their permanent home. But most of the earlier settlers came from
"In this conflict, called "The Battle of Newtown," there were about 4,000 men engaged, an equal number on each side. The American troops were under the command of Major-General John Sullivan, and the Indians under that of the famous Iroquois half-breed, Joseph Brant and Colonel John Butler. General Washington himself, who knew well how to fight Indians, laid the plans of the expedition, warn- ing General Sullivan especially against being ambushed or surprised in the night. The object of the expedition into such an unknown country was to punish the Indians for numerous atrocities they had committed upon the set- tlers at Wyoming and many other places, and to destroy their country which had been used to furnish supplies for the British army. The natural features of the hillside formed a most admirable spot for the Indians to lay a trap for the Americans, and they took full advantage of them. General Sullivan didn't fall into it. He came around the hill in their rear and flank and utterly routed them. There were only twenty-five men killed in the fight; it lasted only a few hours. Why it is called "The Battle of Newtown" it would be difficult to determine. There was no Newtown there when the battle was fought. It should be "The Battle of Chemung." The title is attractive, indigenous, sonorous, and descriptive. There are any quantity of Newtowns all over the country. There is only one Che- mung.
5
CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
the neighborhood of Wilkesbarre; Pa., from Orange County, N. Y., and from the State of Connec- ticut.
The earliest settlers .- It was a hard journey to get to the county. There were no roads, and the river supplied the only means of communication. In little boats, which they pushed up the stream with long poles, the early comers made their tedious and toilsome way. Or they walked, leading their horses or oxen, who bore all their earthly posses- sions.
Within ten years after the battle there were a number of families scattered all through the bor- ders of the county induced to come thither by the stories the soldiers had spread abroad of the extreme fruitfulness of the country. They found it equaling their expectations, and there are many in the valley now bearing the names of those who, in the latter years of the eighteenth century, made it their new home, leaving records that it is pleasant to recall.3 As all pioneers, they were a
3There are some names of all that came, that for many reasons, deserve recalling and a continuance in our mem- ories. Major WILLIAM WYNKOOP, a Revolutionary soldier, who was at the battle of Saratoga, who built the first frame house in the township of Chemung, and the first grist-mill there, and kept the first tavern. He died in 1827, aged seventy-fouryears. Capt. DANIEL McDOWEL, his descendants now spell it McDowell, a Scotchman, and a Revolutionary soldier. He was outrageously tortured by the Indians, who called him " Keto" or the "iron man." He also settled in Chemung Township. ELIJAH BUCK, who gave his name to Buckville, though the village afterwards became Chemung. ABNER WELLS, from whom Wellsburg is named. ISAAC BALDWIN, who, with his eight sons became a power in the county, of whom we shall hear more later on. LEBEUS HAMMOND, who is remembered in the name of "Hammond's Corners," whose miraculous escape from the Indians, not
6
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
rude; rough, even quarrelsome, lot of men. They were having a continual struggle with Nature; and had no objection to a physical argument with fists among themselves. It is a matter of tradition that such amusements as horse-racing on Sundays were not unusual among them. That may be hearsay, but it is a matter of record that at the time of which I write there were more distilleries than there were flouring mills and sawmills together, in the county!
In 1786, Gen. James Clinton, who commanded a brigade in the "Battle of Newtown," one of the family of George Clinton, from whom was named the attractive island that once formed a beauty spot in the valley, and who is only remembered now by the name of a street in Elmira; Gen. John Hathorn and John Cantine, Esq., were appointed
told of much now, though it deserves to be, makes one's hair stand on end. JOHN BREESE and ASA GILDERSLEEVE, who came to Horseheads from New Jersey. JOHN SLY, who took up some of the richest lands in Southport near the river bank, and became very wealthy. It is a tradition that he and his wife came into the county, both riding one horse, who also bore all their worldly possessions. NA- THANIEL SEELY, JR., and his brothers, who left their name and much else besides to a boisterous creek that flows through Southport into the Chemung River. ANDREW GREGG, an Irishman from Enniskellen, whose son Andrew K., became one of the most distinguished lawyers of the State, and a grandson, Gen. William M. Gregg, who was an efficient officer in the Civil War. Gen. MATTHEW CARPENTER was very con- spicuous in the early political and military affairs of the county. He served as county clerk for twenty-seven years. A daughter of his, who married Robert Thompson, published a small volume of poems, which with local pride she called "The Lyre of Tioga." It was the first literary effort put forth in the county. Some one with little learning and no critical ability, observed rudely at the time that the author seemed to be a poor speller! ABNER M. HETFIELD, who made the town of Southport more populous by con- tributing twelve children to the enumeration. His son, Richard, became a character who will long be remembered
7
CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
-
commissioners on the part of the State to survey the lands in the county and to settle disputes that had arisen among those located there. The family of General Hathorn are still conspicuous citizens of the county.
A famine .- In the autumn of 1789 there was an unusual occurrence in the valley. A famine prevailed throughout the county! It was occa- sioned by a severe frost the preceding spring that destroyed the crops that were expected to be har- vested. It created great suffering and for many years was referred to as an event to be remembered with something like horror. The people lived on a certain sort of wild bean; which they boiled, and
for his many good, if peculiar habits and ways. The GRIS- SELS, DAVID and ELIJAH, who were very active in the affairs in Southport, building grist-mills and sawmills. Their descendants now spell the name Griswold. Then the five SMITHS, beginning with TIMOTHY, a large family of influence and importance. BARNABUS TUTHILL and his son Samuel, on what is now Maple Avenue, in Elmira. JOHN McHENRY and JOHN and WILLIAM FITZSIMMONS, near neighbors to the TUTHILLS. DAVID BECKWITH and Gen. SETH MARVIN, farther up Seely Creek. JONATHAN S. CONKLING, JAMES, JONAS, and EBENEZER SAYRE, MORDECAI RICKEY, and JACOB WESTLAKE, making the way clearer for Horseheads. And in Big Flats, CHRISTIAN MINIER, DAVID REYNOLDS, TUNIS DOLSON, CALEB GARDNER, CLARK WINANS, JAMES MCNULTY, and GREEN BENTLEY. PETER SWARTWOOD, the father of Gen. JACOB SWARTWOOD, JOEL THOMAS, ISAAC and EMANUEL ENNIS, SAMUEL, CORNELIUS and PETER WESTBROOK, JOHN, DAVID, and WILLIAM HILL, made the beginnings in Van Ettenville.
"There was considerable unoccupied land at that time, as their report shows, although a large portion was taken up, showing how rapidly the settlers came into the county. They surveyed 207,656 acres. Of these, 28,300 acres were military locations, 159,186 were disposed of to settlers, and 20,170 acres were vacant. The settlers paid eighteen pence an acre, which is about equal to the half dollar of to- day.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF
on the most nutritious roots they could dig from the ground. Relief came when the rye began to form. Two young men died from eating to excess of this green rye.
Treaty with the Indians .- An important treaty; the last one of the kind in the East, and a final one with the Iroquois or Six Nations, was made with the Indians at Elmira in 1791. It settled forever all questions that were in dispute in that region between the Aborigines and the United States Government. Timothy Pickerings who had occu- pied many distinguished positions under General and President Washington, represented the Govern- ment and many conspicuous Indian leaders and chiefs were present.6
Col. John Hendy .- Col. John Hendy was easily; for almost fifty years, the most conspicuous char- acter in the county. He settled near Elmira in 1788, and built a cabin, which, although in some- what of a dilapidated state, is still standing. He was a very impressive-looking man, two inches over
5 He served as Adjutant-General of the Revolutionary army in the New Jersey campaign, was Quartermaster-General dur- ing the war, and was in President Washington's Cabinet, serving as Postmaster-General, Secretary of War and Secre- tary of State. He had great influence with the Indians who called him "Con-ni-sau-ti-the sunny side of a hill."
6 Among these was the famous Seneca Chief RED JACKET, who got his English name from his delight in wearing a red coat given him by an English soldier. He was an exceed- ingly fine orator. The council began its sessions on July 4 and lasted ten days. There were about 1,400 Indians present. One who was present, standing in the doorway of Col. JOHN HENDY's cabin, counted them as they passed up the valley to the west. Part of the time, the council was held near Newtown creek, and the rest of the time at a spot still pointed out on Market Street, just east of Madi- son Avenue, in Elmira.
9
CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
six feet in height, and to the last as straight as a ramrod. He wore his hair long, falling over his shoulders, and when it became white was very pleasant to look upon. He had been a Revolu- tionary soldier. His descendants still live in the county. He was always conspicuous in public gatherings, Independence Days, and any parades or other displays. He died in 1840.7
Henry Wisner .- Henry Wisner was an Orange County man who early became interested in Che- mung County. He acquired a large tract of land in the eastern and western portions of what is now the city of Elmira, and laid out two villages, one on the banks of Newtown Creek, near the site of an ancient Indian village,s and another in the vicinity of what is now Main Street; in Elmira. Through his son Jeffrey, and his grandsons, John W. and William Henry, the county profited greatly. The family name, it would appear, has entirely died out.
7 The first white child born in the county made its appear- ance in COLONEL HENDY's cabin, although it did not remain there. One autumn evening a traveler came along, lead- ing a horse bearing a pillion, on which was a woman with a child in her arms. The couple asked to be cared for, and their request was readily granted. It speedily appeared that some unusual care was needed. When COLONEL HENDY was apprised of the approaching event, he was a little thrown off his balance, but recovering himself with the exclamation, "God bless my soul!" he made the necessary arrangements, and the event was successfully accomplished. The child was named JOHN HENDY HUNT. In three days the strangers took up their journey toward Niagara Falls, where they were bound, with a cradle added to the pillion.
8 The name of this Indian village was "Kan-a-we-o-la," or "Head on a pole," although it had another designation "Shin-e-do-wa," or "At the Great Plains."
10
A BRIEF HISTORY OF
Col. Matthias Hollenbeck .- As has been said, many of the earliest settlers of the valley came from the neighborhood of Wilkesbarre, Pa. To a citi- zen of that place Elmira is very largely, almost entirely; indebted for starting the development of business there. Matthias Hollenbeck, who was a colonel and a judge in his own locality, with his large means and business enterprise and sagacity, sent up into the valley the pioneers that were to open up the county. He sent his son-in-law, Stephen Tuttle, his nephews, Robert, Lyman, and Miles Covell, and his associates in business, Thomas Mifflin Perry, Guy Maxwell, and Matthew Mc- Reynolds, the latter of whom built the first brick house erected in the county; a little west of Main and West Water Streets, in Elmira. These men made the first business beginnings of the county with the outside world, using the only means of communication then provided, the river, down which, by the way of the Susquehanna, they sent to a market in Baltimore, Md .; the produce of the county, grain, plaster, and lumber.
The land was taken up from the banks of the river, several miles north, and a settlement was made in the neighborhood of what is now East Water and Fox Streets and Madison Avenue,
9 MATTHIAS HOLLENBECK was a Virginian by birth, a Revo- lutionary officer, and was present at the massacre at Wyom- ing. He was a great friend of JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and en- gaged with him in a number of trading adventures. By the use of his large means in starting the commercial life of the valley, by his name and influence, which extend even to this day, although he was never even a resident of Che- mung County, he is entitled to the grateful and generous remembrance of all its citizens,
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CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
in Elmira. A little west of that locality a ferry was established that led over the river to the fields of Northern Pennsylvania, only eight miles away.10
There were other contemporary interests in Elmira. The Baldwin lands were just west of those described; the Wisner interests still farther west; the William Hoffman property next, and then the Fitch lands.
Jacob Lowman; in 1792, came to the neighbor- hood of the village and post-office, half way be- tween Elmira and Wellsburg, that now bears the family name. He acquired a very large landed property and left numerous descendants.
Religious organizations .- The first church organi- zation of the county was of the Baptist faith; and was started, although not fully established; by the Rev. Roswell Gough, or "Goff" or Parson Goff. He held meetings and preached in the neighborhood of his home between Wellsburg and Chemung as early as 1790. On this same farm was accomplished the first grinding of wheat in the county. It was in very primitive style. A stump of a tree was hol- lowed at the top; and the grain ground after the manner of the Indians, with heavy clubs. In 1795 the Rev. Daniel Thatcher came in to the county
10This ferry was kept for many years by a German named Kline, who also kept a tavern on the corner of Fox Street. When his services as ferryman were required, and he was called, his invariable reply was "treckly." It sounded some- thing like "directly," but his slow actions seemed to indicate some other meaning, and it was used so frequently that it became all over the country something of a by-word or slang that could be made to mean anything. Kline after- wards kept a tavern at Horsehead.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF
under the auspices of the Presbyterian Board of Missions. This was the first small beginning of what has grown now into the powerful First Presby- terian Church of Elmira. Mr. Thatcher was fol- lowed in a year or two by the Rev. Brinton Paine who, in other relations of life became a strong factor in the development of the region.
New geographical divisions .- In that ancient time all that portion of the State, a rather indis- tinct and indeterminate quantity; lying west of the Hudson River and east of the central lake region, excepting the counties of Albany, Ulster, and Orange, was called Montgomery County, named after General Montgomery, the hero of Quebec. The township of Chemung was created in 1788, in this county, and comprised almost precisely the territory of what is now Chemung County, with a portion of Schuyler County added. Although it was fifty-three square miles in extent, it contained less than one thousand inhabitants.
Two years afterward the village of Newtown was laid out by Henry Wisner. It was the begin- ning of the present flourishing city of Elmira, and was not much of an undertaking. There was what is now called Sullivan Street, named in honor of the General who fought the battle of Newtown, and was the central highway toward the lake region and the road that ran beside the river toward the west, with two or three other lanes, nameless then and nameless now.
A portion of Montgomery County was taken by act of February 16, 1791, to form a new county. which was called Tioga, from the river that ran
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CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
through its southern part. Chemung Township was situated in this new county, and Newtown was made a half-shire town; that is; a place where courts are held part of the time.
In 1792 a further change came to the locality; the township of. Newtown was erected from the Chemung Township. It was very symmetrical in shape, almost a parallelogram; and reached from the Pennsylvania line to Seneca Lake. The first town meeting was held in May of the year named at the same Kline tavern already spoken of.
First Court House .- It was not until four years later, in 1796, that a Court House was built to sus- tain the dignity of the half shire. It was situated on the east side of Sullivan Street; about half way between Church and Second Streets. It was neither a pretentious nor expensive structure; being built of logs, but it must have been firmly put together; for it served the purpose for which it was erected for thirty years, and remnants of it were observable in very recent times. Courts were held before it was completed; at the same Kline House; and there many of the most distinguished legal lights of the State appeared. The new building; which was two stories and an attic in height, was used for other purposes than the trial of causes. In the lower story was the jail; and the home; sometimes; of the Sheriff and sometimes of an under Sheriff. The court-room itself served as an auditorium for relig- ious services; and in the attic were held the meetings of a Masonic lodge. A lodge of Masons was con- nected with General Sullivan's army; and this lodge that met in the Court House was chartered
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF
on June 28; 1793; as Union Lodge No. 30. It was the second lodge of Masons formed in the western part of the State. Some of the most influential men of the region were members.
The first school-house was erected about this time. It also was built of logs, and was in the woods; standing on a hill, where now stands the Masonic Temple. Quite contemporary with this was the school-house built in Horseheads in 1793, its first teacher being Amelia Parkhurst.
Visiting royalty .- The year 1797 was marked in the locality by an incident that for a long time was the subject of local comment and more or less com- placency. The French Duke of Orleans, who sub- sequently became King Louis Phillippe; and his brothers, the Duke de Nemours and the Duke de Berri, on their way from Canandaigua to the French emigre settlements on the Susquehanna and Phila- delphia; tarried for several days at the same Kline tavern. They had walked all the way from Canan- daigua and waited in Elmira until suitable boats could be prepared to carry them farther on their journey.
The character of the settlers .- In early times like these there were few settlers who were professional men, unless to their profession they added some trade or calling. In pioneer days carpenters; workers in leather, blacksmiths; gunsmiths; hatters; shoemakers, and those of the other useful occupa- tions were more needed. Almost every farmer was able to mend; if not make; his farming imple- ments; which were few and simple; could mend
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CHEMUNG COUNTY, N. Y.
or maken the shoes or boots of his family; and the women of the pioneers could attend to the clothing.
Horseheads and Big Flats .- No stranger ever heard the names of the two townships of Chemung County; Horseheads, and Big Flats; without a smile of bewilderment; that sometimes dwindled into derision. But they are both natural and descrip- tive names. General Sullivan, on his return; didn't have enough "fodder" for his horses. Rather than have them suffer for food or fall into the hands of the enemy; he killed a number of them where Horseheads is located, and left their bones to bleach in the sunlight. There were enough skulls to identify the locality as a spot where there were so many horse's heads. This very naturally grew
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