USA > New York > Tompkins County > Ithaca > Early history of Ithaca, N.Y. > Part 1
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REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01147 9539
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EARLY HISTORY Charles bu Cil. ITHACA:
N.Y.
A LECTURE,
DELIVERED AT THE VILLAGE HALL, IN ITHACA, MONDAY EVEN- ING, APRIL 5THI, 1847, IN THE COURSE OF
"FREE POPULAR LECTURES."
BY HORACE KING,
Published at the request of the auditory.
ITHACA, N. Y .: MACK, ANDRUS, & Co, PRINTERS, NO. 69 OWEGO-ST. 1847.
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EARLY HISTORY OF ITHACA.
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AFTER the close of the great contest between the colonies and the mother country, the citizens of the new nation soon settled down into that repose which is favorable to the arts and employments of peace. At the price of blood and treasure, they had purchased the right to exercise according to their own judgments all the functions of civil government ; and they found themselves possessed also, of a vast extent of ter- ritory, whose resources it became their duty and their profit to develope. Whatever the national legislature could devise ·to stimulate and encourage a spirit of enterprise and adven- ture, was promptly enacted ; and many men were induced to quit the older settlements, and to seek their fortunes where land was cheap and labor the chief requisite to secure the no- cessaries and comforts of life. Hence arose that system of western emigration, which has since continued and has been wonderfully enlarged and extended, and is still marching on- ward towards the accomplishment of American policy and prosperity.
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And thus it was that this very locality where we now are, came to receive at an early day, other inhabitants than the Indian savage.
It is proposed to review the history of its settlement, im- perfect, as it must be when embraced within the limits of a lecture, but authentic, I believe, so far as it goes :
Fifty-nine years ago this present month, eleven men left Kingston, on the Hudson river, with two Delaware Indians as
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their guides, to explore the country west of the Susquehanna, which was then an unbroken wilderness. The course that they pursued, embraced a section extending several miles west of the Seneca Lake, a few miles north of the Seneca and the Cayuga, several miles also east of the Cayuga, and be- tween the east and west lines so designated south to the Sus- quehanna. It was their design-if the appearance of the country answered their expectations-to make purchases and to prepare for settlement. But after being absent, thus occu- pied, somewhat more thana month, they returned to their homes, none of them having chosen orlocated a place for future residence.
In April of the following year, however, three of the num- ber, who were connected each with the others by marriage, determined upon revisiting the district which they had for- merly explored and making a location. Accordingly they came on, and without difficulty agreed in their selection. It comprised four hundred acres of land, the western bound of which was the line of the present Tioga street, in this village. Upon that part of it which was in the valley, there were sev- eral " Indian clearings ;" being small patches from which the hazel and thorn bushes had been removed, and which had been cultivated after the manner of the Indians. Having planted their corn in these places, and leaving a younger brother of one of them to take care of it, they returned to fetch their families.
The names of these three men were, Jacob Yaple, Isaac Dumond, and Peter Hinepaw. They had served their country in the war of the Revolution, which was and is a sufficient guaranty that they had the spirit to persevere in, and the strength to execute whatever they undertook. Nor did they fail in this instance ; for the September following found them again here, their families this time with them, having brought also a few articles of necessary household furniture, some farming utensils, hogs, sheep, cattle, and horses.
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"The Yaple family was composed of Jacob Yaple, his wife, and three children,* and John Yaple, a younger brother aged about twenty years.
The Dumond family consisted of Isaac Dumond, his wife, and three children, and John Dumond and his wife, who had then lately been married.
The Hinepaw family was comprised of Peter Hinepaw, his wife, and five children, the oldest of whom was about twelve years of age. In all, there were twenty individuals.
The length of time occupied in their journey from Kings- ton hither, in the light of the rapid travelling of this day, seems incredible. A month was consumed in reaching the point where the village of Owego is now situated, and from thence to this place nineteen days. But a reference to the route pursued, and to the manner of travelling, explains it. From Kingston they crossed to the eastern branch of the Delaware, striking it at Middletown ; there they constructed canoes, in which they descended the river to a little below the fork ; then they crossed to the Susquehanna, and again making ca- noes, descended that river to Owego. Between that place and this, there was no road of any description-unless indeed, a well-beaten Indian footpath might be considered one-and therefore they were obliged to clear the way before them, in order to journey onward.
Having arrived at their place of destination, they immedi- ately proceeded in their preparations for permanently re- maining. In a short time three log cabins were erected, and the respective families took possession of their dwellings. The first built, which was occupied by Hinepaw, was situa- ted on the Cascadilla creek, near where Mr. T. S. Williams' flouring mill has been lately erected ;f the second, occupied
*One of these children, Peter Yaple, who was between one and two years old when his parents settled here, now resides in the town of Danby, and is the only person in this vicinity-if not the only one living-of those who first came in.
. + Connected with the building of this cabin, the following incident is related. It was observed that the spot was infested with a great many rattlesnakes; and
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EARLY HISTORY OF ITHACA.
by Yaple, was situated where Mr. Jacob M. McCormick's residence now stands ; and the third, occupied by Dumond, was near the same spot.
The only settlements within hailing distance of this, were at Owego, where three families had located the year preced- ing-at Newtown, where two or three families had previously settled -- and at a point some four miles north of Cayuga lake, on its outlet, where there were also two or three families.
But it cannot be said that these three white families were entirely without neighbors and alone here ; for the Indians, who remained in numbers, received them in friendship, and afforded them some substantial assistance, if they could not afford them society. The time had long gone by, when the husband and father returned from the chase, or from his daily toil at a little distance from his dwelling, to find bis habitation burned and his wife and children slaughtered; when the mother, with dishevelled hair and looks of terror, seized her infant to her breast and fled before a merciless pursuer ; when murder and desolation were the constant work of a watchful and wily foe, whose revenge admitted of no discrimination on account of sex or age. This terrible picture belongs to anoth- er period, and to other scenes than that which has been pre- sented.
And it may as well be in this place remarked, that the custom of the Indians was, when winter approached, to gather their wigwams into the valley or flat of the Six-Mile- Creek, extending as far up as Wells' Fall, and forming a con- siderable village; and then when summer came again to re- move their frail tenements to the higher grounds. There was also a large Indian village some two miles up the inlet to the
some thirty were killed the day on which it was completed. On entering it at night, there were several found on the floor within it, which were also killed. A large fire was made and one person remained to watch during the night. In the morning it was ascertained that there was a den of them close by, which during the day was broken up, and a yast number of the reptiles -- I will not undertake to say how many-killed.
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EARLY HISTORY OF ITHACA.
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Cayuga lake-or Neguaena Creek, as it was then called- near the present residence of Mr. Thomas Fleming, where there was an Indian orchard, indications of which still remain. But the great body of the Indians removed from this section to their reservation, the second year after the first white in- habitants came in. To whom let us return.
It must not be supposed that they had no communication with the older settlements at the cast. There were many who, like themselves, were moved to engage in the same en- terprise of finding homes in the Western wilderness, and sub- duing and cultivating the land to fertility. Whilst they wel- comed and entertained these adventurers-who were sure in their explorations'to bring every settlement that they possi- bly could within their route-they were abundantly compen- sated by the information which was imparted to them, re- specting the movements of the government, and the affairs of the cities and the seaboard. Then, too, as some returned, they had opportunity to correspond with their friends, and to tell them of the pleasures and advantages of forest life, and of the prospect of gain by settlement at the west.
The season of the year demanded, that they should make provision for winter. The crop of corn was gathered, and one of the three procured twenty-four bushels of wheat at a settlement upon the Upper Nanticoke, and took it to Wilkes- barre in Pennsylvania -- where the mill nearerst them was lo- cated-to be made into flour. This was the supply for the three families, of wheaten flour, for one year. As for meats, their rifles afforded them an abundance from the bear and deer, with which the forest was well stocked. They had also made provision for a supply of potatoes for the subsequent season. John Yaple, the young man who had remained in the spring to attend to the corn, whilst the others returned for their families, had travelled one hundred and sixty miles on foot, to a point on the Delaware, where he obtained three pecks of potatoe-eyes, or sprouts, with which he returned,
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carrying them in a sack upon his shoulders. And this is the way in which that valuable esculent was introduced into this section of country.
Perhaps I ought not to omit mentioning the manner in which they made their corn into flour. A large stump of some firm wood was selected, in the top of which they burned and scraped out a bowl or mortar ; then at the distance of a few feet they set an upright post, having a fork at the top, through which was placed a beam, or sweep, and to one end of this was attached a weight, and to the other, immediately over the mortar, a pole with a pestle at the lower end. And thus they pounded their corn-afterwards sifting it, and making the finer meal into cakes, which were baked upon the oven bottom, and the coarser into samp or hominy.
Fortunately also, they could easily procure salt. There was evidently, somewhere near by, a salt spring known to the Indians ; for on being requested to furnish the article, they would be absent but a short time, and then return with the quantity desired. But although there has been great inquiry and much seeking after the location of the spring, yet it re- mains even now unknown to the inhabitants. That it might be used to profit and advantage if discovered, is probable, from the fact, that the Indians furnished the salt in consider- able quantity upon short notice. Many of the older inhabi- tants recollect their bringing it into the settlement, in pails and buckets.
But notwithstanding the means of sustenance and the sup- plies which have been mentioned, it will be readily and cor- rectly inferred, that the first settlers were by no means in a situation of ease and luxury. A rude life and humble fare indeed was their's. And great labor, and some danger, and many inconveniences were before them and surrounded them. But neither toil, nor danger, nor privation, fatigued or fright- ened them from their purpose. If their food was coarse, they were compensated for it with excellent health ; if their labor
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was wearisome, yet undisturbed sleep visited their pillows and refreshed their bodies. And they looked forward to a better time coming, when plenty, and comfort, and ease, should crown their exertions and fulfil their desires. They saw natural advantages spread out on every side :- in the streams, which would so well water their fields when they had subdued the wilderness ; in the richness of the soil, which promised great fertility ; in the undulating face of the coun- try, which indicated that it would prove healthful ; and in all those minor considerations which influenced the farmer in those days, in his choice of settlement. And if they were . sensible to the beauty, the charm, of natural scenery, they might here feast their eyes for long, nor feel the prospect pall upon their gaze ; for before them lay hillside and valley, bold precipice and gentle declivity, murmuring brook and noisy waterfall-and at' a little distance a lake of placid surface, which like a mirror reflected back surrounding objects. And the Frost King had painted upon the green of the forest, with his colors of yellow and crimson-which albeit, they intima- ted approaching decay-were nevertheless most lovely addi- tions to the scenie, whilst over all, the glorious sun cast his mantle of silver and gold.
In the midst of this scene, and thus situated, these three families remained for one year. Then was added another family, by the name of McDowel, who put up their cabin somewhere near the spot where Mr. Henry Ackley's present residence is. I cannot tell the order after this, in which the early inhabitants came in ; and can only mention, as being among the first-the Devenports, who came in the second or third year, and settled on the hill west-the Blooms, who came in the third year, and settled where their descendants still remain-Elder Starr, who came in the fourth year, and located four miles north of Ludlowville-Francis King, who came in the fifth year, and located two miles south upon the hill-Moses De Witt, who came here as the agent of Mr.
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EARLY HISTORY OF ITHAGA.
Simeon De Witt-Patchin, who built his cabin about half way between the Cascadilla and Fall Creek-Conrad, who located a few miles north-Abram and Henry Markle-the Sagers, who located about a mile south, on the present road leading to Spencer-the Brink's, who settled a short distance south of Mr. Ebenezer Mack's present residence-Abner Treman, who came in about the fourth year, and many of whose descendants are still remaining in this vicinity -- John- son, who located nearly three miles south-Doctor Lewis Beers, who settled where he still remains, and with whom also, came Mr. Joseph Judson and Mr. Wm. R. Collins-the former of whom resides in Danby, and the latter remained here until within a few years-Rector, who built just across the inlet, west-Van Orman, Van Etten, Banfield, Shoema- ker, Miller, Green, and Smith. The country filled up rapid- ly, and within a few years, here and there, and all around, patches of the forest trees had disappeared, and in their stead, were fields of grain to mark the presence of civilization, and the progress of agriculture.
But I must return again to the first inhabitants.
In March, following the September when they came in, the wife of John Dumond, presented to the world, the first white child born within the present limits of this county- who is still living and resides in Danby, the wife of Mr. Ben- jamin Skeels .*
In the second year, a Mr. Allen was passing through here with his family, and was obliged to remain for a while on ac- count of the sickness of his daughter, aged seventeen or eigh- teen years. . She died, and she, (Rachel Allen,) was the first person buried in the grave-yard on yonder hillside.
In the second year also, Yaple built a small mill, near Hinepaw's house, on the Cascadilla ; which had the capaci-
* Mr. Skeels, with his family, the latter part of May last, removed from Danby to the state of Indiana .: so that the first white child born here, is giving to a still more lately settled country, some of its first inhabitants.
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EARLY . HISTORY OF ITHACA.
ty to grind twenty or twenty-five bushels of grain per day. It had, however, for a considerable length of time, no bolting- cloth, and to separate the bran from the flour, they made use of a sieve. (The superior quality of Graham bread was not understood in those days:) But it was found that this mill was inadequate to supply the wants, in this respect, of the increasing population. Indeed it must have very soon be- came the case, for a notable journey to a mill at Owego, is related, in which also, the condition of the road between the two settlements, is clearly exhibited. Mr. McDowel set out for Owego with a load of grain drawn by an ox team. For three nights he turned his cattle out to browse, and him- self returned home to sleep ; and for two nights after, serv- ing them in the same manner, he walked to Owego to pro- cure rest-and with his load arrived there on the sixth day.
Perhaps it may be inquired, how the early inhabitants pro- cured those articles of trade, almost indespensible to a family, and usually furnished by a store. In the second year, a man by the name of Lightfoot, came up the lake with a boat-load of goods ; and entering the inlet, landed near the present steamboat landing. Here he put up a shanty, in which he dis- played and disposed of his goods and wares. His stock in trade consisted of a chest of tea, a sack of coffee, some crock- ery and carthern ware, a very small quantity of dry goods, a little hardware and cutlery, some gun-powder and lead, and a barrel or two of liquor. These articles he exchanged principally for maple sugar and furs ; the furs being, marten, otter, beaver, fox, bear, and deer skins. He continued this species of traffic, for ten or twelve years ; and his was the only trading house here within that period.
There is another item in their mode of supplying their ne- cessities, which may not be withheld. It was, for many years, the custom for the whole neighborhood, extending sev- eral miles around, to plant their corn upon the flat, or in the valley here. They had the idea that it could not be raised
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.upon the higher ground. Each would build a crib upon the hillside, into which, after it had matured, the crop was gath- ered. There were as many as twenty-five of these cribs stand- ing here at the same time ; and no instance is related of one man's stealing from another, or quarrelling with his neighbor, respecting the portion which had been allotted to him. They dwelt in friendship, and, it is said, felt it a pleasure to assist one another.
. A few words further, respecting the first settlers. Through the carelessness or wickedness of their agent, who wasto at- tend to the payment of instalments and taxes in Albany, on the lot which they had located and settled upon, it passed, in four or five years, out of their possession, and finally came into the hands of Simeon De Witt. Hinepaw removed to near the present village of Aurora ; and the Yaple and Du- mond families, removed about three miles south of this place, where some of their descendants still remain. -
Mr. De Witt had, also, become possessed of the tract west of the lot located by the first inhabitants ; and, therefore, at a very early day, was the owner of nearly all the land now em- braced within the limits of this village. But pursuing a wise and liberal policy, he disposed of lots at cheap rates and upon fair terms. It was not until after it came into his hands, that there appeared even a distant prospect of there growing up here a large and important inland village.
About, the year eighteen hundred-eleven years after the first settlement-the first frame house was erected .* It was built by Mr. Abram Markle. The carpenter employed, was a Mr. Delano ; to whom Luther Gere was then an appren- tice, and with whom he worked upon this building. It is still standing, but, I believe, with an addition, which was subse- quently made to it. Crossing the Cascadilla, near Mr. Will-
* This building was placed immediately over the spot where the rattlesnakes' den had been broken up by the first settlers -- as mentioned in a preceding note.
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iams' mill, it is the second house north of it on the west side of the street.
It is said, that Abram Markle brought up a small stock of goods, and opened the first store ; but it is certain he did not long precede others, and he continued in trade but a short time. Becoming involved, his endorser, Mr. De Witt, was obliged to take the small lot of land which he owned and oc- cupied, and upon which was the frame house before men- tioned.
The first regular and established merchant, was Mr. David Quigg ; who has ever since, and still continues to reside here. He came in, in June, 1804. A Mr. Isaacs, who acted as agent for John Hollenbach, of Owego, and was succeeded by a Mr. Stigney, opened a store about the same time.
For two months, Mr. Quigg carried on trade in a cabin, on the north side of the Cascadilla, within the small circuit which has been so often referred to. He also put up an ash- ery for the manufacturing of potash. In August he removed his goods to a frame building, which had been erected for him, on the South west corner of Aurora and Seneca streets. When he first arrived here, there were but three or four fam- ilie's in this valley. Two years after-in 1806-the number of. buildings had increased to'twelve, six or seven of which were frame buildings. One was the small building just across the street south of this Hall, now occupied as a dwelling house, and then as a tavern-the landlord of which was a Mr. Hartshorn ; another was situated where "The Tompkins House" now is, and was also kept as a tavern by a Mr. Vrooman ; and another, was the house on the south east cor- ner of Aurora and Seneca streets, and was afterwards kept as a tavern by Mr. Luther Gere.
The time had now arrived, when the settlement kad be- come large enough to be worthy of a name. Hitherto it had been known only as " The Flats,", or as some say " The
J. Jom
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EARLY IHISTORY OF ITHACA.
City," or as others "Sodom ;" and of course none of these could be retained.
There is a small island in the lonian Sea, with which there is connected, much that is interesting and beautiful, in an- cient and classical writings. Homer made it the seat of government, of one of his most distinguished, perchance his favorite hero ; for although Achilles ranked highest for strength and prowess at the siege of Troy, yet, even in the Illiad, the blind poet seems to have been delighted, to rehearse the wise counsels, and, to portray the skill and bravery of Ulysses ; and the Odyssey is but a narration of his wander- ings and adventures, wherein tempest-tost and shipwrecked, and after a thousand accidents and surprises, and as many extraordinary escapes, he returns home to find a wife faith- ful, and to hear of a son, whose absence in search of his fath- er, manifests the strongest filial love. Virgil, also, in his Æncad, makes mention of the same island. It was named " Ithaca ;" and its city-also of that name-is described as a bird's nest, built among the rocks.
And here, in this valley, almost surrounded by hills, with no sea, it is true, laving its shores, but with a beautiful lake close by, the rising village was appropriately namod Ithaca .* And it is now the only spot upon the face of the earth so de- signated, for the ancient Ithaca is at present known by the name of Theaki.
After this point of time, the growth of the village was rapid, but at the same time healthful. In a few years, men of all trades, professions, and occupations, were to be found here. There was a good demand for labor, and in all branches, it commanded fair wages.
The first physician here, was a Doctor Frisbee. The first
* The name had been bestowed. by Mr. De Witt, several years previously, but it was not until about this period, that it became generally known. On opening his house, Vrooman put up the sign " Ithaca Hotel," and thus it soon was well pub- lished.
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lawyer, Oliver Wisewell ; and a little after, Stephen Sedg- wick ; and after him, David Woodcock. The first estab -. lished minister of the Gospel, was the Rev. Mr. Mandeville. The first school-teacher, was a Mr. Howe ;- the first sing- ing-master, a Mr. Belcher ;- the first tailor, Mr. Peleg Cheese- brough ; the first blacksmith, Hudson Gaskill ;- the first tan- ners, Gardner & Butler ;- the first silversmith, a Mr. Agar ;- and among the first hatters, Henry and Julius Ackley.
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