USA > New York > Livingston County > A history of Livingston County, New York : from its earliest traditions, to its part in the war for our Union : with an account of the Seneca nation of Indians, and biographical sketches of earliest settlers and prominent public men > Part 3
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LOCKWOOD L. DOTY.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
A Noble Amphitheatre-" Pleasant Valley "-Canaseraga Creek-Conesus Lake-Mineral Springs-Wheat Crop-The "Long House"-Old Time Memories-Omens and Dreams-Aboriginal Legends-The Jesuits- Sullivan's Officers. .. 9-18.
CHAPTER II.
INDIAN OCCUPANOY.
The Seneca Nation-Oneidas and Tuscaroras-Ancient Aborigines-The Iroquois-Hiawatha-An Indian Congress-Red Jacket, Cornplanter- Big Kettle-Tribal Clans-David Cusick-Flying Head-Lake Serpent and Giants-The Kah-kwas-Another Monster-The Indian Lovers- Hurons-A Female Chief-Indian Battle-An Earthquake-Fate of the Kah-kwas-The Iroquois Dominant. 19-36.
CHAPTER III. THE SENECAS.
"The "Door-keepers "-The " War-post "-Witchcraft-Indian Life-Indian Sports-The Hunting Season-Hunting Fields-Indian Roguery- Squaw and Papoose-Yankee John-"Big Injun me"-Medical Men- Indian Religion-New Year's Festival-A Masquerade-Burning the Dog-Parallel with Jewish Rites-A New Religion-" Handsome Lake" -Indian Trails-Strength of the Senecas-Big Tree Village-Cattarau- gus Reservation-The Truth of History. .37-66.
CHAPTER IV. ABORIGINAL TOWNS-DEFENSIVE WORKS.
Ponchet's Map-Indian Earthworks-Relics and Remains-Mounds in Groveland and Dansville-Seneca Towns-Burial places-De Nonville- Indian Ghosts - Tuscarora Burial-place - Monture's Grave-Little Beardstown-Skeletons-Squakie Hill-John Jemison's Ghost-Cap- tives-A Chief's Remains-Big Kettle's Town-Blue Board-Oneida Swimmers - Boyd and Murphy-Indian Lodges-"Let the Dead Rest." 07-103.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
INDIAN NOTABLES.
Red Jacket-Indian Eloquence-Salt in Tea-Cornplanter-Henry O'Bale- A Sensible Duel-The " Peace Prophet "-Little Beard-Tall Chief- Straight-back-Big Tree-Black Chief-An Indian Princess-Jack Berry - Captain Pollard-Hot Bread-Half Town-Sharp Shins- Tommy Infant - John Monture - Gnawwa-Mary Jemison-White Woman's Tombstone-Thomas Jemison-Philip Kenjockety-Old Can- ne-hoot. .104-137.
CHAPTER VI. JESUIT MISSIONS-DE NONVILLE'S EXPEDITION.
Father Chaumonot-Father Fremin-Marquis de Nonville-Governor Doll- gan-French and Indian War-A Battle on the Genesee-Disasters of the French. .138-150.
CHAPTER VII. SULLIVAN'S EXPEDITION.
British Indians-War against the Senecas-Gov. George Clinton-Van Schaick's Expedition -- Sullivau in command-Troops Without Pay -- Surprise of Indians at Round Hill-Gen. Clinton-March of the Army -- Country Laid Waste -- Washington's Policy-A White Waif-Lieut. Thomas Boyd-Timothy Murphy-" False Faces "-Council of War- Sullivan's Antecedents -- Go on with the Ceremonies-Progress of the Army-The Ambuscade-Torture of Boyd and Parker-Indian Villages Destroyed-Results of the Expedition. 151 -- 206.
CHAPTER VIII. AFTER THE REVOLUTION.
Attention drawn to Genesee Country-White Prisoners Among the Indians Early Claimants of the Territory-Royal Grants-Virginia Company --- Claims of Massachusetts and New York-Phelps and Gorham Purchase -First Land Office-Purchase by Robert Morris-Sir William Pultney and Associates-Charles Williamson-Holland Company-Big Tree Treaty. 207-238.
CHAPTER IX.
SETTLEMENTS COMMENCED-BRITISH INTERFERENCE.
Character of the Early Settlers-Difficulties Met-James and William Wadsworth-Early Elections-Postal Facilities-Some Early Settlers- Marquis de Talleyrand-Williamsburgh Fair-Division of the State Proposed-British Interference-Hostile Indians-War Imminent- Wayne's Victory-Peace Restored-A Prospecting Party .... 239-262.
CHAPTER X.
PROGRESS OF THE SETTLEMENTS-RELIGIOUS PRIVILEGES.
Missionaries in the Genesee Country-Visits of Louis Phillipe and the Duke de Liancourt-Primitive Habitations-A Recluse-James Wadsworth in Europe-Williamsburgh and Hermitage-Settlers in Sparta-Elec- tions-A Rare Tea-Party-Caledonia Settled. 263-279.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XI.
PIONEER ELECTIONS-SCARCITY OF FOOD -- RAPID GROWTHI OF TIIE SETTLE- MENTS.
Pioneers Negleet to Vote-State Road Improvement Company-Elections and Results-The Indians-Effect of Civilization Upon Them -The Settlements rapidly Increasing -- Indian Thievery-"Genesee Fever "- Eclipse of the Sun-Consternation Among the Indians-A Famine- Post-Roads and Offices -- Stage of Settlement in 1806-Transportation Facilities -- The Ark -- Squatters-A Pioneer Race-Some New Comers --- A Cold Season. 280 --- 304.
CHAPTER XII. WAR OF 1812.
Warm Support by Livingston --- General William Wadsworth --- Other Volun- teers --- Queenstown Heights --- Smith's Fiasco --- Unjust Criticisms --- The Cold Plague --- Its Fearful Ravages --- Events of 1813-14 --- Volunteer Companies from the County --- Burning of Buffalo --- End of the War --- Beneficial Results --- Growth of the Settlements --- First Paper in the County --- River Boating --- Minor Incidents .. .305 --- 336.
CHAPTER XIII. ERECTION OF THE COUNTY.
Statistics of County --- Old County of Ontario --- Movement for Division --- Op- position --- Plans of Division Proposed --- Reasons for New County --- Crowded Courts, Hard Times, Remote Settlements --- New Counties Formed --- The Name of Livingston --- County Seat Chosen --- Publie Build- ings Erected --- First Courts --- County Seals --- A Buck Without a Tail.
337 --- 357.
CHAPTER XIV. EARLY BANKING PROJECTS --- GENESEE VALLEY CANAL.
Petit:ons for Banks --- Pioneer Stages --- River Navigation --- Better Shipping Facilities Needed --- A Canal Proposed --- Publie Meetings --- The Genesee Valley Canal --- Other Projects --- Pioneer Elections --- Livingston County High School --- Post-riders --- Daily Stages --- Amusements --- County Bible Society --- Steamboating on the Genesee --- Mastodons Found --- Elections --- Governor Clinton Visits the County. ... 358 --- 383.
CHAPTER XV. ANTI-MASONRY --- NEW COUNTY PROJECT.
Abduction of Morgan --- Popular Feeling --- Public Meetings --- Committees of Investigation --- Rise and Progress of Anti-Masonic Party --- Elections Carried by Anti-Masons --- Local Nominations --- Commercial Enterprise --- County Farm Bought --- Alms-house Established --- New County Proposed --- Great opposition --- No "Cutting or Carving " --- Livingzton County Bank --- End of Third Decade --- Pioneer Newspapers. . . 384 --- 402.
CHAPTER XVI. THE DECADE FROM 1830 to 1840.
A Railroad Proposed --- Legislative Memorial --- Rochester and Dansville Rail- road --- Rejoicing Over Passage of Bill --- Failure of the Project --- Election Results --- Newspaper Ventures and Failures --- Presidential Election of 1840 --- " Tippecanoe and Tyler Too " --- Log Cabins and Great Excitement --- The County Twenty Years Old .. .403 --- 417.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII. THE DECADE FROM 1840 TO 1850.
The Massacre of Boyd and Parker --- Place of Ambuscade --- Relics Found --- Removal of Remains to Rochester --- The Ceremonies --- Great Concourse of People --- Shall these Remains be Re-interred in the County ?--- County Agricultural Society --- Elections --- Presidential Contest of 1844 --- State Election of 1846 --- John Young for Governor --- His Popularity in Living- ston --- Railroad Projects --- Plank-Roads and Telegraphs --- Three Roads Commenced --- Success and Failure --- Local Elections --- Journalistic His- tory --- Condition of County in 1850. 418 --- 444.
CHAPTER XVIII. THE DECADE FROM 1850 TO 1860.
New Alms-house --- Military Encampments --- New Banks --- Portage Riot --- Elections --- Cattle Breeders' Association --- New County Proposed --- First Whig Defeat --- Political Disorganization --- Confusion of Parties --- Know- Nothings -- Republican Party --- Presidential Contest of 1856 --- Local Elec- tions --- Genesee Valley Railroad Finished --- The Weevil --- County Officers Chosen --- Importance of the County at this Period --- Presidential Election of 1860. .445 --- 469.
CHAPTER XIX.
LIVINGSTON'S PART IN THE WAR OF THE REBELLION.
The People Ever Loyal --- Fort Sumter Fired Upon --- The People Aroused --- Party Lines Obliterated --- Men United --- Prompt Response to Call for Troops --- Aid Funds --- Sanitary Commissions _ Bounties --- Companies Raised-Camp Union-Wadsworth Guards-Camp at Portage __ Tho 130th and 136th Regiments-Other Enlistments-The Close .. .470-483.
TOWN SKETCHES.
Avon ..
485
Caledonia
498
Conesus. 511
Geneseo.
519
Groveland.
555
Leicester.
573
Lima.
600
Livonia.
606
Mount Morris.
619
North Dansville. 632
Nunda.
643
Ossian
649
651
Portage
655
Sparta.
Springwater. 667
673
West Sparta
York.
679
E. VTA 'NEL !!
Las Wadsworth
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
Midway between lake Ontario and the Pennsylva- nia border, and centrally between Seneca lake and the Niagara river, in the heart of the fertile region known as the Genesee country, lies the beautiful agricultural COUNTY OF LIVINGSTON.
Watered by the chief river of Western New York, whose broad deep basin forms the widely-famed val- ley that bears the river's name, and furrowed by a tributary whose extent is mainly within the county, its surface-also indented by two picturesque lakes- presents a topography of diversified outline ; the bold acclivities of the river highlands rising with grand effect in the south-western border, and offering fine contrast to the less striking rural scenery.
The boundaries of the county, defined by statute more than by natural limits, are, nevertheless, marked in their general contour, except at the north, by an elliptical rim, consisting of continuous ridges of hills, which, converging at the south, form a noble amphi- theatre, in whose bosom nestles the most populous though in geographical extent the smallest township of the shire ; while from fruitful valleys, watered by a hundred rivulets that seam its sides, the central township rises like a vast mound to the height of full three hundred feet .* While the configurations are
* The town of Groveland. Dansville lies within the amphitheatre of hills.
10
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
quite varied, every part of the territory is, with rare exceptions, adapted to tillage ; and not only are the leading physical features attractive to the eye, but the organic remains, and peculiar geological formation of the section, open to the student of nature's works a field of no ordinary interest.
The Genesee river, which cuts the county into un- equal parts, breaks through the mountain-like barrier at the south-west, and, flowing, with its deep channel, for ten miles or more along the western border, at length enters Livingston county, foaming over a suc- cession of cataracts. Sweeping northward between high and precipitous banks, for a dozen miles, amid scenery of great variety, its waters abruptly leave the narrow chasm worn by centuries of attrition, to glide through this "Pleasant Valley," as, long ago, the red man named it. Embowered in groves, or studded with stately elms and oaks, that grow upon its grassy margins, the river loiters for mile on mile, drifting from side to side of the rich and smiling landscape whose broad expanse of grain-field and meadow, dot- ted with country homes, spreads like a vast park over the wide alluvial flat or plain known as the GENESEE VALLEY, until reaching the north-westerly border, its channel crosses into Monroe county. In pioneer days, this was the market highway for products of the lum- ber forest and the farm ; but now that the woods which lined its terraced slopes for leagues on either side are cut down, a thousand little streams that fed it from the wilderness have disappeared ; and to-day the "riv- er runs with narrowed bounds," and with few or pre- carious facilities for internal commerce, even if the canal and railway did not afford more speedy and cer- tain modes of transit.
Canasoraga creek. the river's principal branch, and in former times, doubtless, its continuation from the
11
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
point of confluence, is a sluggish, sinuous stream, having its source in Steuben county. Flowing in at the south-westerly quarter, it trends northwardly through a flat several hundred yards in width, its tur- bid waters entering the river near the center of the county. The summits of the two ranges of hills, nearly uniform in height, that mark its course, stretch miles away from each other, and, with the river valley, form a "Y"-shaped indentation ; the creek giving the right arm, and the river the stem and left arm.
Conesus lake is situated in the interior of the coun- ty ; and Hemlock lake lies partly within and along its eastern border. The dark waters and precipitous shores of the latter, in whose solitary nooks more than one hermit is said to have found a retreat in early days, give it much of the character of the lakes of Scotland ; while the less marked elevations that hem in the waters of the Conesus, fringed as they are and diversified with cultivated farms, constitute it one of the most agreeable of rural pictures. Romance, too, has lent her charms to the shores and waters of this lake ;* and near its head, in Revolutionary times, en- camped the colonial army under Sullivan; while within rifle-shot of its banks was enacted the bloody episode of that enterprise, the fatal ambuscade laid by the Senecas for Boyd's scouting party.
The noted mineral springs of Avon, (venerated Ga- nowagas of the Indian medicine-man, ) the springs of Caledonia, remarkable for the volume of their wa- "ters, and the interesting streams which mark the gen- eral landscape, claim notice in these pages.
Of works of enterprise, the county has its share.
* Its story of love and war has been woven into poetic numbers by Hos- mer, who has fixed the scene of a portion of his Yonnondio on the western shore of the Conesns, in verse as applicable to its native theme as that of Sir Walter Scott, in "Marmion," or the "Lady of the Lake."
12
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
The Genesee Valley canal passes through its territory, following the general course of the river from Roches- ter, and crossing to the easterly side of that stream at Mt. Morris, whence it runs south-easterly four or five miles to the Cushaqua creek, where it branches, the one line continuing in the same line of direction to Dansville, while the other, or canal proper, diverges toward the south-west quarter of the county, and again crosses the river, entering Wyoming county, and reaches the upper waters of the Genesee several miles above. Our grand system of magnetic telegraphs connects the principal villages of this county with all parts of the business world ; while a net-work of rail- ways already embraces the Genesee valley line, which links Mt. Morris with Rochester, following the general course of the river on the easterly side. The Buffalo and New York road enters at the north-westerly cor- ner, and connects at Avon with the northern branch of the Erie railway, which latter passes, by a winding course, first eastward and then southward, through the easterly range of towns; and the Canandaigua and Niagara Falls line runs across the northernmost town, west and east.
In extent of territory the county does not rank among the larger ones of the state, but stands scarce- ly second to any in productive wealth ; its wheat crop, -unsurpassed in quality,-alone constituting a fifth part of all that is grown in the commonwealth. And if its annals do not cover so broad a page as older counties may boast, they yet embrace no little belong- ing to history, while its Indian traditions, especially, add value to our country's aboriginal lore.
To certain localities, though by far too few, we shall find yet clinging the Indian names, often disguised, but not wholly lost, thus fixing the sites of ancient aboriginal villages. For it must be recollected that
13
IIISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
during many ages this region, in the expressive lan- guage of the natives, formed the Upper or Western door of the typical Long-house or federation of the Five nations of Indians, and, for generations unnum- bered, comprised the favorite hunting-grounds of the principal villages of the Senecas, the most powerful and warlike of the tribes forming the great Iroquois League. At just what period the solitude of the noble forest which had covered this territory from the beginning of time, was invaded by these children of nature, cannot now be determined ; but, the region once known, its rare natural advantages were fitted to attract and retain a people whose strength could pre- serve to them its permanent occupancy. Indeed, their traditions, often more extravagant than an oriental tale, declare that the Senecas established their homes here at a date more remote than our own Christian era. What people preceded them is a question left wholly to conjecture, since all authentic history of this region must begin with the arrival of the Dutch in New York, early in the seventeenth century. Prior to the settlement of Manhattan island, nothing was definitely known by Europeans of the Senecas as a. separate nation ; and not until the period of the Jesuit missions among this aboriginal family, a little more than two hundred years ago, was there any precise in- formation gathered relative to their position in the League.
Though reliable annals extend over two centuries, it is with a period embraced within living memory that this work will mainly deal. Step by step, after the Revolution, as settlements increased, will the for- tunes of the pioneers and their descendants be fol- lowed. Nor can the history be complete without a. brief portrayal of their customs and merry-makings, as well as the hardships and enterprise of that early
14
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
day, with some account of their journeyings hither- ward, along unbeaten roads, over extemporized bridg- es, and through shifting fords, while yet a great wil- derness lay between their new homes and the east- ern settlements. The habits of every day life will be introduced, and something of political reminiscences, of militia musters and general trainings, not omitting reference to educational, and to moral and religious movements of early days. It is not the province of the simple chronicler to enter the domain of sentiment, or invoke the imagery with which fancy vivifies the Past ; and yet a glimpse of matters of ordinary life, even but a ssore and ten years ago, reveals something of the golden haze of perspective, investing them with more than every-day interest. It is the lapse of time and change, measured by the march of steam, and electricity, that already softens the generation that preceded us into comparative remoteness, awakening tender associations in our minds at the mention of the old-fashioned fire-place, heaped with glowing logs, that cheered long winter evenings with its warmth and its welcome. Deep-rooted were the friendships formed about its ample hearth-stone, and they grow dearer with each passing year, to the county's wandering children. The log-house has disappeared, but how often come back the happy memories of its homely comfort, and what household traditions cluster around it that must be quite unknown to more modern and far richer mansions. Every season of the old time counted its joys. How we cherish the recollection of rainy days spent in the pine-scented family garret, among smoke-brown letters and forgotten newspapers, and manifold odds and ends, in broken chest and home-spun tow-bag. The great masters of harmony never arranged music so grateful as the sound of au- tumn rain pattering upon the low-browed cottage roof,
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HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
and lulling the sense to sleep with its monotonous melody. And the glory of the already ancient stage- coach, so imposing in its entry, as driver and four-in- hand, in full career, dashed up to the tavern door, is gone with the fast echo of the shrill post-horn. The spinning-wheel forgets its hum, and the flail has dis- appeared with the log-barn and straw-thatched shed. Many are the changes of a single life time; but if we miss the picturesque, we find the loss replaced by gain, in broader privileges and wider opportunities.
A step beyond the actual, and we enter the domain of popular credulity. Half a century ago, the no- tions of our forefathers, in common with their genera- tion, were tinged with that superstition which credits the existence of a race of supernatural beings peopling the recesses of forests ; of witches who haunted those persons whom their capricious natures led them to an- noy ; or who, gipsey-like, told fortunes, made and dissolved matches, interfered with household affairs, and discovered stolen property. Omens, too, were observed, dreams were not unheeded, and many a farmer plowed, planted and gathered, according to the aspects of the moon, while few domestic animals were held as free from direct planetary influences.
A view of the GENESEE COUNTRY, prior to its occu- pancy by the whites, will be found interesting. Little enough is, indeed, known, and even that little, derived mainly from tradition, is obscured by the uncertainties that characterize Indian legends, especially in dates ; but wholly to reject the account would be to drive an inquirer to mere speculation, whose conclusions must, at least, be equally wide of truth. Sketches of the more noted warriors, sachems and wise men who have resided here, and an outline of their relentless feuds, with some reference to the state-craft and sagacity of the Indians, will be presented. The aboriginal na-
16
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
tives, in their myths, peopled many parts of the vast wilderness stretching westward far beyond the Miss- issippi, and eastward to the ocean, with strange mon- sters, and their stories of this region are replete with accounts of winged heads, the feats of prodigious ser- pents, and the calamitous visits of giants, unearthly in size and formidable in power, who came eastward from the regions of the setting-sun.
Our account will not be wanting in the interest that attaches to aboriginal antiquities ; for the remains of several ancient mounds of undoubted military origin, links in that chain of ancient defensive works which, according to recent researches, extended from the shores of lake Erie to the lakes of central New York, have been found here. Natural history, too, has been illustrated by the discovery, in two or three places within the county, of the remains of that huge fossil animal known as the mastodon.
We shall note how the French, in Canada, obtaining their earliest knowledge of this section from the Jesuit missionaries, endeavored to get possession of it; and how a formidable expedition, under the Marquis De Nonville, dispatched hither with the design of con- quest, miscarried, as did all similar efforts of the French. The Jesuit missionaries, first among Euro- peans to seek these wilds, established missions in the neighborhood of the Genesee river, nurturing them in that spirit of self-sacrifice peculiar to their order, with the hope of planting here the standard of their faith, and enlarging the jurisdiction of the Romish See. But these efforts proved abortive, for here, as else- where in the New World, their creed found no perma- nent lodgment. From the letters of these religionists to the general of their order in Rome, we catch defi- nite views, during the period embraced between the years 1636 and 1687, of the homes of the Senecas.
17
HISTORY OF LIVINGSTON COUNTY.
Thenceforward, nearly a hundred years, this region affords little to arrest the historian ; but afterwards something like a connected account will be possible.
The expedition of General Sullivan to the country of the Senecas, in the fifth year of the Revolution- ary war, was charged by Washington with the de- struction of the Indian villages on the Genesee, as a penalty for a long series of bloody wrongs perpetrated by the savages upon the whites. As a measure of future security to the settlements, it fully accomplish- ed its object; this attained, red men and white alike briefly quit the region ; the former, save as a broken remnant, never to return.
Reference will be made to the part taken by our citizens in the war of 1812; and to the reasons which, a few years later, controlled them in asking for the erection of the county : an event that occurred at a pe- riod of great derangement in the public finances, when communities were suffering from the effects of the un- wise monetary policy of our second war with Great Britain.
Several of Sullivan's officers and soldiers, allured by the natural advantages of this region, led hither, soon after the Revolution, a tide of emigration to occu- py the district then so recently wrested from the con- quered tribes. The settlement grew with unexampled rapidity. The forests disappeared as though de- voured, giving place to cultivated fields and incipient villages, and before the present century opened, the smoke of the pioneers' cabins might be seen drifting over widely-separated valleys and hill-sides. In or- der to show whence the early settlers mainly came, the origin of families will be traced, where practicable, and the fact will everywhere appear that our pioneers were, to a marked extent, actors in the war for In- dependence, mingled with families of refinement and
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