USA > New York > A history of the state of New York, from the first discovery of the country to the present time: with a geographical account of the country, and a view of its original inhabitants > Part 2
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35
The surface of the gulf, below the cataract, presents a very singular aspect ; seeming, as it were, filled with an immense quantity of hoar frost, which is agitated by small and rapid undulations. The particles of water are dazzlingly white, and do not apparently unite together, as might be supposed, but seem to continue for a time in a state of distinct commi- nution, and to repel each other with a thrilling and shivering motion, which cannot easily be described.
The road to the bottom of the fall presents many more difficulties than that which leads to the Table Rock. After leaving the Table Rock, the traveller must proceed down the river nearly half a mile, where he will come to a small chasm in the bank, in which there is a spiral staircase, enclosed in a wooden building. By descending the stair, which is seventy or eighty feet perpendicular height, he will find himself under the precipice, on the top of which he formerly walked. A high but sloping bank extends from its base to the edge of the river, and on the summit of this there is a narrow, slippery path, covered with angular fragments of rock, which leads to the Great Fall.
The impending cliffs, hung with a profusion of trees vid brush-wood, overarch the road, and seein to vibrate with the thunders of the cataract. In some places, they rise abruptly to the height of one hundred feet, and display upon their sur- faces fossil shells, and the organic remains of a former world ; thus sublimely leading the mind to contemplate the convul- sions which nature has undergone since the creation.
As the traveller advances, he is frightfully stunned by the appalling noise ; clouds of spray sometimes envelope him, and suddenly check his faltering steps; rattlesnakes start from the cavities of the rocks; and the scream of eagles, soaring among the whirlwinds of eddying vapor, which obscure the gulf of the cataract, at intervals, announces that the raging
20
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
waters have hurled some bewildered animal over the precipice. After scrambling among piles of huge rocks that obstruct his way, the traveller gains the bottom of the fall, where the soul can be susceptible only of one emotion-that of uncontrollable terror.
It was not until I had, by frequent excursions to the falls, in some measure familiarized my mind with their sublimities, that I ventured to explore the recesses of the Great Cataract. The precipice over which it rolls is very much arched under- neath, while the impetus, which the water receives in its descent, projects it far beyond the cliff; and thus an immense Gothic arch is formed by the rock and the torrent. Twice I entered this cavern, and twice I was obliged to retrace my steps, lest I should be suffocated by the blast of dense spray that whirled around me: however, the third time, I succeed- ed in advancing about twenty-five yards. 1
Hence darkness began to encircle me. On one side, the black cliff stretched itself into a gigantic arch far above my head, and, on the other, the dense and hissing torrent formed an impenetrable sheet of foam, with which I was drenched in a moment. The rocks were so slippery, that I could hardly keep my feet, or hold securely by them; while the horrid din made me think the precipices above were tumbling down in colossal fragments upon my head. 1
A little way below the Great Fall, the river is, compara- tively speaking, so tranquil, that a ferry-boat plies between the Canada and American shores, for the convenience of travellers. When I first crossed, the heaving flood tossed about the skiff with a violence that seemed very alarming ; but, as syon as we gained the middle of the river, my atten- tion was altogether engaged by the surpassing grandeur of the scene before me.
I was now within the area of a semicircle of cataracts more than three thousand feet in extent, and floated on the surface of a gulf, raging, fathomless, and interminable. Majestic cliffs, splendid rainbows, lofty trees, and columns of spray, were the gorgeous decorations of this theatre of wonders ; while a dazzling sun shed refulgent glories upon every part
21
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
of the scene .- Surrounded with clouds of vapor, and stunned into a state of confusion and terror by the hideous noise, I looked upwards to the height of one hundred and fifty feet, and saw vast floods, dense, awful, and stupendous, vehement- ly bursting over the, precipice, and rolling down, as if the windows of heaven were opened to pour another deluge upon the earth.
I
Loud sounds, resembling discharges of artillery or volcanic explosions, were now distinguishable amidst the watery tu- mult, and added terrors to the abyss from which they issued. The sun, looking majestically through the ascending spray, was encircled by a radiant halo ; while fragments of rainbows floated on every side, and momentarily vanished, only to give place to a succession of others more brilliant.
. Looking backwards, I saw the Niagara river again become calin and tranquil, rolling majestically between the towering cliffs, that rose on either side. A gentle breeze ruffled the waters, and beautiful birds fluttered around, as if to welcome its egress from those clouds, and thunders, and rainbows. which were the heralds of its precipitation into the abyss of the cataract."*
The quantity of water passing the falls is estimated at 670,255 tons per minute, and the width of the stream, includ- ing the island, at 1410 yards. The channel on the American side of the island is the widest, and has the greatest perpen- dicular descent ; though four fifths, and perhaps a still larger proportion, of the waters pass on the Canadian side.
The depth of the river beneath the fall is probably far greater than its height; since the tallest trees, descending perpendicularly, are lost for several minutes beneath the water, before they reappear. The banks of the river below are on both sides perpendicular, of solid rock, and of the same height with the falls. They continue about the same height 7 miles to Queenstown.
The St. Lawrence is the outlet of lake Ontario, and, for a considerable distance, constitutes the northern boundary of New York. If considered as rising at the source of the St.
* Howison.
22
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
Louis, it is 2000 miles in length, and, in its quantity of water, surpassed by no river in North America.
The Hudson rises in the northern part of the state, between lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence, and runs south 250 miles to the Atlantic. It is navigable for ships 130 miles to Hudson, and for sloops 36 miles farther, to Troy. The tide in this river flows 160 miles.
The Mohawk rises in the northern part of Oneida county, 8 miles from Black river. Its course is south of east 150 miles to the Hudson. It runs in a deep ravine, and is wild and impetuous. There is generally along its banks a vale of rich soil, but, in many places, spurs from the neighbouring hills project themselves to the shore of the river.
The chief tributaries of the Mohawk, from the north, are Great and Little Canada creeks. The former empties at Her- kimer, and the latter 13 miles below. They run in deep ravines, are long, rapid and unnavigable. On the south, the Scho- harie, descending from the Catskill mountains, rolls north- ward with the impetuosity of a torrent, and joins the Mohawk at Fort Hunter.
The Genesee rises in Pennsylvania, and pursues a northerly course of 120 miles to lake Ontario. It has several interest- ing cataracts. At Rochester is a perpendicular descent of 96 feet. In spring, this river is a torrent; in autumn, it is nearly dry.
The Oswego is formed by the union of the Oneida and Seneca rivers, and runs north-west 45 miles to lake Ontario. 'Through the Oneida river, it receives the waters of the lake of that name, and through the Seneca river the waters of the Seneca, Cayuga, Owasco, Skeneateles and Otisco lakes. The courses of these branches are very irregular.
" Black river heads near the sources of Great Canada creek, and runs south-west 20 miles. There, bending north-north-west, in about the same distance, it receives Moose creek from the east. As they unite, they rush over a precipice, 63 feet perpendicular, into a broad basin. Hence it flows, a broad and quiet stream, 42 miles in the same direction ; when, passing an inconsiderable fall, it turns west by south, and, after a course of
-
-
23
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
25 miles, empties into Black River bay, an arm of Chaumont bay, near the outlet. of lake Ontario."*
The Oswegatchie, and several other considerable rivers, fall into the St. Lawrence.
"Racket river rises near the, Hudson, and at first runs north-east. It has a portage of one mile to Moose creek, and of one and one half miles to the Hudson. After passing through three considerable lakes, the lowest of which is forty miles from its source, it runs north-west fifty miles, and in this distance has more than twenty falls and rapids; some of which are twenty, others forty, and one one hundred and fifty feet high. In this distance, it is generally one hundred yards broad; but in one place only five feet. Turning again to the north-east, it has a gentle current for thirty miles to the St. Lawrence."*
Big Chazy, Saranac and Sable rivers fall into lake Cham- plain. The Chenango and Tioga are branches of the Susque- hannah. Cataraugus and Buffalo creeks are considerable streams falling into lake Erie. The Tonnewanta, after a course of 40 miles, falls into the Niagara. It is navigable for boats 28 miles.
SEC. VII. Lakes. Erie, Ontario and Cham- plain, each form a part of the boundary of New York. In the interior are several lakes inferior in size, but generally adapted to the purposes of internal navigation. Oneida, Seneca and Cay- uga are among the most important.
Lake Erie is 200 miles long, and 710 in circumference. It contains a large number of islands, and abounds with fish. It is of more dangerous navigation than the others, on account of the rocks, which project into the water, for many miles together, from the northern shore, affording no shelter from storms, which, at some seasons, are very frequent.
Lake Ontario is of an oval form, about 160 miles in length, and 450 in circumference. Its banks are, in many places precipitous. The southern shore is covered principally with
* Morse.
24
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
beech trees, and the soil appears fertile. This lake abounds with several varieties of fish. ".It receives the waters of the Genesee river from the south, and of Onondaga, at fort Os wego, from the south-east, by which it communicates, through lake Oneida and Wood creek, with the Mohawk and Hudson rivers. On the north-east, this lake discharges itself through the river Cataraqui (which at Montreal takes the name of the St. Lawrence) into the Atlantic ocean. 'It is asserted, that these lakes fill once in seven years, and that 1794 was the · year when they would be full; but, as we are unacquainted with any laws of nature, by which this periodical effect should be produced, we may with propriety doubt the fact.""* The great depth of these waters constitutes one of their most distinguishing characteristics. The bottom of Ontario, Erie, and the other large lakes connected with them, is found to be below the surface of the Atlantic ocean .- Lake Champlain, on the eastern boundary, is 100 miles in length, and from 1 to 25 in breadth.
Lake George is 37 miles long, and from 1 to 7 broad. On each side it is skirted by lofty mountains. Its banks are un- commonly handsome, and the water so transparent, that the bottom is visible at almost any depth. It embosoms more than 200 beautiful islands, most of which are covered with groves of pine, cedar and hemlock. It falls into lake Cham- plain by a channel 3 miles in length, during which its waters descend more than 100 fect.
Oneida lake is 20 miles long, and 5 broad. From the south, it receives the waters of Cazenovia lake through the Chitte- ningo.
Seneca lake is 40 miles long, and from 2 to 3 wide. Its outlet, the Seneca, runs north of east 12 miles, and falls into Cayuga lake near its mouth. Crooked lake is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 2 wide. A short stream connects it with the Seneca.
Cayuga lake is 40 miles long, and from 2 to 4 broad. Onondaga, or Salt lake, is 6 miles long, and 1 broad. On the south-west, it receives the waters of the Otisco by a stream 16 miles long, and at the north end flows through a short
* Morse.
25
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
channel into Seneca river. Skeneateles lake, 14 miles long and 1 broad, and the Owasco, 11 miles long and 1 broad, are also discharged into Seneca river.
Canandaigua lake is 15 miles long, and nearly 2 broad. Chatauque lake lies 9 miles from lake Erie, and is 18 miles long and 3 broad. Its waters flow from Conewango creek into the Allegany river. Boats go from the head of this lake to New Orleans.
Otsego and Caniaderago lakes are the two sources of the Susquehannah. The first is 9 miles long and 1 wide. The other is nearly as large. Oswegatchie lake is 18 miles long, and nearly parallel with the St. Lawrence.
SEC. VIII. Islands. The principal islands are, Long Island, east of the city of New York ; Staten Island, west of New York bay ; Munhat- tan or York Island, on which the city of New York stands ; and Grand Island, in the Niagara river.
Long Island is about 140 miles long, and, on an average, about 10 broad. It is separated from Connecticut by the Sound, from York Island by East river, and from Staten Island by the Narrows. A ridge of hills extends through the north side, but the island is generally level. The soil is poor, and, in many places, not worth cultivating.
Manhattan is 15 miles long, and from 1 to 2 in width. It is separated from the Jersey shore by Hudson's, and from Long Island by East river.
Staten Island, 9 miles south of Manhattan, is 18 miles long and from 6 to 7 broad. It is generally rough and hilly. On the south side is a considerable tract, which is level, and tol- erably fertile.
Grand Island is 6 miles long and 3 broad. It has a good soil. The south end is 4 miles from Buffalo.
3
26
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
L
CHAP. II.
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY-CONTINUED.
Mineralogy. Salt Springs. Medicinal Waters. Botany. Natural Curiosities.
SEC. I. Mineralogy. The mineral resources of the state have, as yet, been very imperfectly investigated, and many parts of this extensive country remain totally unexplored. Wherever inquires have been made, they have generally resulted in the most brilliant success.
Of Iron there is an inexhaustible quantity in the Highlands, and in different parts of the state, as far as Indian river, or the west branch of the Oswegatchie. The ore on the bor- ders of lake Champlain and in the Highlands gives a metal . of a very superior quality.
Marble of great value, on account of its quality and color, abounds in the counties of Ulster, Dutchess and Washington. A vein of a dove color, full of scallops, or pectinites, has been discovered in the vicinity of Ontario in Jefferson county. Black marble, with white spots, is found at Marbletown in Ulster county, at Granville in Washington county, and at Ticonderoga.
Limestone abounds in various places. Magnesian Limestone is found near the city of New York. Fctid Carbonate of Lime, in Dutchess county ; also, near Ticonderoga, and the Falls of Niagara.
Clay is widely ditl'used throughout the state, and exists in a considerable number of varieties. Fine white Pipe-Clay is found on Black river. Gypsum (sulphate of lime) abounds in the western country, and a large vein has been opened in the castern, a mile above the town of Hudson, and near the river of the same name. That of Onondaga is very pure.
27
. NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
: Native Silver has been found near Sing Sing, in a small vein. Ores of Tin have been discovered in the Highlands, and in the counties of Essex and Clinton. Ores of Arsenic are found in Orange county, in the town of Warwick. Garnet, of a rose color, exists near Fishkill.
Flint, embedded in limestone, is found at Black Rock, in the Seneca prairies, and near Saratoga Springs. Quartz, of which the Esopus millstone is made, is found in the counties of Ulster and Orange. Argillaceous Slate is found in Dutch- ess and Ulster counties. Coal exists near the banks of the Hudson, in the town of New Marlborough.
Lead is found in the Highlands, Columbia, Essex, Clinton, Herkimer, Ulster, and several other counties. Black Lead, or Plumbago, exists near the city of New York, and in the Highlands 60 miles north ; also, in the counties of Ulster and Jefferson, and near lake Champlain. Emery is found in the vicinity of lake George.
Native Alum occurs in several caverns, in which also are found beautiful samples of Calcareous and Silicious Spar. Asbestos is found in Dutchess and Rensselaer counties. A considerable variety of Ochres, or Pigments, are found in different parts of the state. Mica occurs in numerous varieties. Serpentine is found in New Lebanon. Rock Crystal is abun- dant. Beds of Silicious Sand have been discovered, afford- ing, for the purposes of manufacture, an inexhaustible supply.
SEC. II. Salt Springs. The Salt Springs oc- cupy a conspicuous place among the mineral resources of this state, and furnish inexhaustible mines of great value. The most important arc found in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario and Genesee.
The Onondaga salt springs rise in a marsh at the head of the Onondaga, or Salt lake. The water is remarkably im- pregnated with salt. Fifty gallons yield, by boiling, a bushel of salt, weighing fifty-six pounds. It contains a considerable quantity of lime. In addition to salt, the water contains carbonic acid gas, and a small quantity of sulphuric acid.
28
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
The springs most highly impregnated issue from the marsh in a group, at the foot of the declivity on which is built the village of Salina. There are many other salt springs in different parts of the marsh; some along the shores of the lake several miles further down, and others at a considerable distance up the creek. All of these are not, however, equal- ly impregnated with this mineral.
SEC. III. Medicinal Waters. New York has long been celebrated for the superior richness and variety of its medicinal waters. Those of Saratoga are, perhaps, unequalled by any in the world. Of Sulphur Springs there is an almost infinite diversity, from those of Clifton to the small sulphuretted hydrogen springs everywhere diffused over the regions of clay, shistus and limestone. Bituminous Springs occur in Cata- raugus and Allegany counties.
The Saratoga Springs risc out of a shallow vale, or marsh, by the side of a branch of the Kayadarossoras creek. The Congress, High Rock, Columbian, Red, Flat Rock, Wash- ington, Hamilton and President Springs are the most cele- brated.
Congress Spring,* in its medicinal effect, is the most impor- tant. The gas, escaping through the water in fine bubbles, gives to the surface the appearance of simmering. When first dipped, the water is remarkably limpid; but, after stand-
* One gallon of the water of Congress Spring gives, on analysis, tho following result :
Muriate of Soda, - 471,5
/ Carbonate of Lime, 178,476
Carbonate of Soda, 16,5
Carbonate of Magnesia, 3,356
Carbonate of Iron, 6,168
Total, 676 grains.
Carbonic acid gas-343 cubic inches.
29
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
ing a few hours exposed to the air, it becomes turbid, and deposits a sediment. Its most obvious effect, when taken as a medicine, is that of a cathartic and diuretic.
High Rock Spring is enclosed in a hollow rock of a coni- cal form, that rises about five feet, the base of which is about nine fect in diameter. At the top is a circular opening of near ten inches in diameter, which enlarges downward. The water rises within two feet of the top, and is kept in a state of constant ebullition by the escape of carbonic acid gas, of which this spring contains a larger proportion than any of the others.
This rock seems to have been formed, by concretion, from the particles thrown up by the waters, and is of a spongy texture, soft, and easily broken, though the surface is more compact and hard, of a color approaching to the brown oxyd of iron in a natural state. There is a crack on one side, which is supposed to open a vent for the water below the surface of the earth; and tradition asserts, with every ap- pearance of probability, that, when the spring. was first dis- covered, the water flowed over the top of the rock.
These waters contain muriates of soda and lime, carbonates of lime, magnesia, soda and iron, with large quantities of carbonic acid gas. They are useful in. cases of dispepsia, calculous complaints, cutaneous eruptions, and scrofula. They are widely diffused over Saratoga county. Those of Ballston* have long been in high repute, and are much fre- quented.
The Clifton Springs are in Farmington, 12 miles from Geneva. The principal issues are 3 large springs. The rocks around them are calcareous, filled with impressions
* One gallon of the water from the principal fountain at Ballston Spa gives-
Muriate of Soda, 150,
Carbonate of Soda, 9,
Carbonate of Lime, 75,5
Carbonate of Magnesia, 2,5
Carbonate of Iron, 7,
Total, 253 grains.
Carbonic acid gas-210 cubic inches.
3 *
4
30
HISTORY OF NEW YORK.
generally imputed to petrifaction of testaceous shells. Where one of them rises is a spot 5 or 6 rods in diameter, complete- _ ly covered with mineral precipitates, principally sulphur, which is found to be in some places near 6 feet deep.
These waters are strongly impregnated with sulphur. When first dipped, they are perfectly transparent, but become opaque by standing, and assume a yellowish cream color, as the precipitates form. These consist of sulphur and carbon- ate of lime. In this state, they emit great quantities of sul- phuretted hydrogen gas, which diffuses a scent to a very con- siderable distance.
Chappequa Spring is a chalybeate at mount Pleasant, 3 iniles from Hudson's river, and 30 from New York .. On a mountain near Newbury, there is a mineral spring, whose waters create sickness and nausea. It is said to contain copper ; and around it a flame has been seen, as if issuing from the earth. The Seneca Oil, from Cataraugus and Allegany counties, is a petroleum very nearly resembling the British Oil of commerce. There are warm springs at New Lebanon in Columbia county, and near Flushing in Long Island.
SEC. IV. Botany. The common forest trees are the varieties of oak, ash, walnut, pine, ma- ple, beech, chestnut, birch, poplar, cherry, cedar, clin, hemlock, sumach, &c. Of shrubs and plants, the most noted are wild hops, fox-grapes, ginseng, sarsaparilla, snakeroot, spikenard, man- drake, wild gooseberry, and cranberry.
The greatest proportion of timber in the western country consists of oak, elm, maple, walnut, beech, butternut, chest- nut, cucumber. The indigenous plum-tree yields a fruit of an agreeable flavor, which ripens late in autumn. Four varieties of wild grape grow throughout the whole terri- tory.
In the north-western parts, near the river St. Lawrence and lake Ontario, black and white oak abounds, interspersed with pinc and hickory. The natural growth consists of maple,
31
NATURAL GEOGRAPHY.
beech, elm, basswood, and birch. There are numerous tracts covered with pine.
SEC. V. Natural Curiosities. The country contains many of those uncommon views, which have been classed under this head. Its noble cataracts, the gloomy recesses of its caverns, the romantic defiles of its mountains and highlands, present many striking and highly interesting scenes.
The Falls of Niagara, and the Genesee, have been previ- ously mentioned. Glenn's Falls, on the Hudson, near Kings- bury, are highly picturesque and magnificent. A solid bed of limestone extends across the channel, forming, as the bed of the river sinks down, an irregular precipice. From this, the whole waters of the Hudson descend in broken tor- rents.
The masses of rock which direct the courses of the waters, and separate their currents, are disposed in horizontal strata. In several places, they are very abrupt, and terminate in a perpendicular wall. Between them are profound openings, through which the torrent forces its way. At the bottom all the streams unite, and proceed in conjunction towards Fort Edward.
The Cahoes, or Great Falls of the Mohawk, are not un- worthy of notice. The river pours over a rock, which extends 900 yards, nearly across the channel, and about 30 feet in height. These falls are about 3 miles from its junction with the Hudson.
There is a singular cave at Rhinebec, in Dutchess county. · The entrance, between two large rocks, on the declivity of a steep hill, is a short and small horizontal passage, to a narrow, perpendicular passage, about 10 feet long, from 8 to 10 broad, and 4 high.
A narrow passage conducts from this to a second room, 13 feet long, but higher and broader than the first. Numerous calcareous stalactites depend from the roof of this room, and some statagmites rise from the floor. These have met in va-
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.