USA > New York > Chenango County > Oxford > Annals of Oxford, New York : with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and early pioneers > Part 8
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O youngsters! the elderly man has his enviable memor- ies, and not the least of them is the memory of a long journey in mid-spring or autumn on the outside of a stage coach. - GEORGE ELIOT.
Early Traveling and Mail Routes.
Traveling by land was for a few years limited and haz- ardous, so that travel by boat was the more popular, although canoes were perilous. Transportation was al- most wholly done by water, and in the winter merchandise was drawn on rude sledges. As horses multiplied women rode with as much ease as men. Young girls rode on side saddles, while older women rode behind men on pil- lions, padded cushions which had a sort of platform stirrup.
The first roads were called " trodden paths," narrow worn lines, scarce two feet wide, trodden over pine needles and fallen leaves among the tree trunks by the feet of the red men as they walked stealthily in Indian file through the great forest. Later these paths were deepened and worn bare by the coarse and heavy footwear of the pio- neers, others were formed by the slow tread of domestic cattle as they wound around the hillside to pasture or drinking place. Then a scarcely broader bridle-path for horses, with blazed trees as guide posts, widened slowly to traveled roads and uneven cartways.
Gen. Benjamin Hovey entered into an agreement with the agents of the State in 1789 to open a road from the Unadilla river, to Cayuga lake, near Ithaca. It is known as the old State road and is the same which is now traveled from the Unadilla River to this village, and
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thence west to McDonough, Cincinnatus, and Ithaca, with very little alteration in the course. The materials for carrying on the surveys of the Gore of the "Twenty Towns " and for cutting the State road were brought up the Susquehanna and Chenango Rivers in canoes from Athens, Penn., a distance of about eighty miles, against a rapid current nearly the whole distance.
Francis Balcom, while living in Unadilla, became ac- quainted with Gen. Hovey, and through him, took in hand the work of cutting the timber, bridging streams, grading and otherwise constructing the road from Rock- dale on the Unadilla river to Oxford on the Chenango river. Those who assisted him were his brother Samuel, Andrew Sprowl, Thomas and James McCalpin, all skilled woodmen. They selected a spot on the east hill to erect a cabin, wherein they might find shelter. One day was devoted to cutting and hauling logs, which, when ready fitted, were drawn to the spot by binding chains around their waists. Before night-fall the cabin was ready for occupancy, and Joab Enos took charge of it and boarded the road-makers. In 1804 Francis and Samuel Balcom took a contract to build a bridge across the Susquehanna river at Wattles ferry and one at the Catskill turnpike.
The corduroy road was the first improvement made to render public highways passable by vehicles. Miry ground and chuck holes were filled up with sapplings and logs, and whole roads were made of transverse logs touching one another, cut in lengths about twelve feet long.
The two-wheeled cart, clumsily built and wasteful of power, was next used by our forefathers for transporta- tion purposes, though the transfer of merchandise still was chiefly in the winter by " sledding." In those days the winters were severe with deep snow. The pioneer at that season of the year had little else to do, and the rough
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and clumsy-built roads were made smooth by the passage of the sleds.
After a few years regular freight wagons or sleighs, besides the mail coach, were run and a vast amount of travel and traffic passed over the old State road, or Cats- kill turnpike in the days before canals and railroads. For many years distances were reckoned from tavern to tav- ern, and stone mile posts were met with at every mile of the road.
All the products of the farm, butter, grain, lumber, wool, etc., had to be drawn over this road to reach a market, and returning teams brought the merchants their merchandise. As even little towns furnished freight, the aggregate was large, and, as they neared the Catskills, the number of teams on the highway seemed enormous. Droves of hundreds of heads of cattle and sheep were of daily occurrence; stages, with two and three extras; teams, heavily loaded, passed both ways; taverns as often as every two miles the whole length of the road, and all crowded nearly every night. Private carriages without number, loaded with people and their baggage, all helped to swell the vast calvalcade that daily passed over this popular turnpike.
The haulers of freight were sturdy and healthy men, of regular habits, though not always strictly temperate. Their life was much too vigorous for them to be drunkards.
During the winter sleighs and pungs took the place of wagons. They were heavily loaded with frozen hogs, poultry and venison; firkins of butter, bags of beans, peas, sheep-pelts, deerhides, skins of mink and fox, oc- casionally a bear skin; nuts that had been gathered by the children, yarn that the housewife had spun, and stock- ings and mittens that the white-haired mother had knitted ; homespun cloths and linen. Besides this were hay and
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oats for the horses, and food to last the teamster until the end of the trip, which consisted of doughnuts and cheese, cold roast pork, sausage, and "rye and injun "
Meals at the taverns cost but little, a " cold bite " could be had for a shilling, and a warm meal two shillings, but the teamsters often preferred to take their own food with them, which they ate at the taverns, and, if they washed their own dishes, the landlord got six cents for furnish- ing hot tea, and was expected to throw in a glass of whiskey when the bill was settled. It was immaterial to tavern keepers whether or not they served meals. More profit was made on the liquors sold and sleeping accommo- dation given, though the latter was crude enough. Great fires were built in barroom and parlor, the teamsters spreading blankets and robes upon the floor, rolled up in them and slept with feet toward the fire, thus forming a half-circle. Ten cents was paid for the privilege of thus lodging, but the sale of rum and cider made a fat wallet for the tavern keeper.
In winter the teamsters were attired in heavy homespun clothing, calfskin boots with trousers tucked inside, and fur-lined overshoes over the boots. Over all these were bright red knit leggings, which came up nearly to their thighs. They wore a fur or buffalo skin coat, a red com- forter and fur cap with ear protectors. Many also had red silk sashes around their bodies, tied on the left side with a double bow with tassels. Their hands were encased in double-pegged mittens, leather or fur gloves. The costume made the men picturesque figures at the taverns.
The first mail route through Oxford was from Coopers- town to Binghamton, then called Chenango Point, and was without doubt established soon after the settlement of Oxford was begun. The little community at first was
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supplied with a semi-monthly mail, then a weekly mail was carried over this route on horseback as late as 1819, when a stage line was formed from Utica to Binghamton by Joseph Willoughby of Oxford, who commenced a " stage wagon with two horses," making weekly trips, which were soon changed to semi-weekly. In 1821 George Munsell of Binghamton purchased Mr. Willoughby's route, running semi-weekly and himself driving. In 1825 he put on a post coach and four horses and continued one of the principal proprietors of the Utica line for many years.
In 1822 a stage route and mail line was formed from Catskill to Ithaca, which soon became a very general thor- oughfare of travel. The stage left Catskill every Sunday morning and arrived in Oxford on the following Tuesday morning. Leaving Oxford on Wednesday afternoon it arrived in Catskill on Friday afternoon. In later years the route was improved and the stage left Catskill for Ithaca every morning on arrival of boats from New York, via Delhi, Unadilla, Oxford, etc., the route being 165 miles long. Leaving Ithaca every morning at 3 o'clock, the stage arrived in Catskill the second day. Thirty pounds of baggage was allowed and 140 pounds was equal to a passenger. The fare was four cents per mile.
Burr Bradley, who drove the stage on the Catskill line in 1822, was a striking character and an important indi- vidual; popular with travelers and acquainted with everyone who resided on his lengthy route. He was a good natured fellow and his arrival in town was hailed with joy by all the juveniles, which he announced by fre- quent blasts upon a long tin horn, that echoed through the valley from the head of Albany Street. This was also a signal for the loungers to bestir themselves and
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gather on the tavern porch as the stage drew up with vehement " Whoas!" He was never without a story, which he would tell in such a humorous way that many considered it a treat to ride with him, and he was a ยท general favorite of the boys and girls, with whom he cracked his jokes. His team was covered with ivory rings, and he was always talking to it when not conversing with the passengers. He never was without a runaway, kicker, and biter in his team; sat up straight, kept his reins taut and whip erect in his left hand. He talked to his horses as he would to a person. "Git up, Bill, have to touch ye up if ye git shirky." " If you don't do better, Tom, I'll swap ye off fur one of Ben Butler's old sheep, and git the best of the bargain then." He carried from town to town, and from house to house, general news, sometimes gossip, and often word in regard to the health of friends. His progress along the highway was eagerly watched by the farmer in the field, who paused in his work until the stage was lost to sight; while at every house faces at the small windows greeted him and his passengers. He would stop his team at a lonely spot, where a little home was located, perhaps miles from town, and to the pale and anxious woman who came to the door joy and thankfulness would radiate her features at his message: "Sam's fever has left him, and he's hun- grier than a b'ar. The doctor says he's comin' out all right." And, with a "God bless you, Burr, for the good news," he would drive on. At another place he would leave the message: "Mary and the baby will be up next trip. Wants ye to tell all the folks so she wont miss seeing any of 'em." Burr had a kindly disposition and was a good friend to everyone but himself, which eventu- ally led to his death by a fall from his stage, resulting in a broken neck. He was sincerely mourned by old and
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young, and his many acts of kindness were remembered for years.
About 1822 Ethan Clarke came to Oxford and pur- chased the Stage House, now the Hotchkiss House, and later became connected with the stage line that stopped at his house.
In 1823 mail coaches and stages ran twice a week from Oxford to Albany, Utica, Catskill, and to Newburgh by way of Binghamton
In 1825 Jacob P. Hill carried on horseback the first mail from Oxford to McDonough.
In 1829 the Oxford and Cooperstown line left Oxford daily, Saturday excepted, at 4 A. M., and arrived at Coop- erstown in the evening. This route was a part of the Ithaca and Albany line of post coaches, which made the trip in three days. The line was intersected at Oxford by the Binghamton, Catskill and Utica line. All baggage was carried at the risk of the owner. A writer in the Chenango Republican, published in Oxford under date of January 20, 1830, said: " It is not generally known in this section of the county which is the shortest and most convenient route to New York. One who is inti- mately acquainted, recommends leaving this village either on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday morning-will pass through Chenango Point, and reach Montrose the evening of each day, passing through Milford and Morristown, in New Jersey, and reach New York the third day from leaving Oxford."
In 1836 stages ran from Utica to Oxford and Bing- hamton every day except Sunday; leaving Utica at 5 A. M., they reached Oxford the first day, thence to Bing- hamton next day at noon.
In 1847 A. H. Watkins, then a resident of Oxford, es- tablished a coach communication between Oxford and
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Norwich. The coach left Oxford daily at 8 A. M. and 2 P. M., and on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 7 P. M. Returning, it left Norwich at 10 A. M., and 5 P. M. every day, and on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5 A. M. also. The fare was twenty-five cents one way, or thirty-eight cents round trip.
In May, 1847, the fare was reduced on the Bingham- ton, Utica and Albany route, and a four-horse post coach left Binghamton at 7 A. M., arriving at Utica at 12 P. M. the next day. Returning, it left Utica at 3 P. M., reaching Binghamton the next day at 11 A. M. An accommodation left Oxford every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5 A. M., reaching Utica at 5 P. M.
The old four-horse post coach, or Concord coach, was a clumsy vehicle, hung on thoroughbraces, which lurched over the rough road like a ship in a seaway. They con- tained three seats with leather cushions. Behind the mid- dle seat was a broad leather strap to support the backs of passengers. Two seats on the outside would accom- modate four persons besides the driver. In winter the coach was placed on runners. Curtains were closely but- toned at the sides and big buffalo robes and a liberal supply of straw contributed a slight degree of comfort. When the coach stopped at a tavern the passengers would alight to warm themselves, hanging their shawls and broad-flapped coats on a wooden peg and draw up before the log fire, the men in the barroom were surrounded by a group of townsmen eager for the latest news, and from the ladies in the public sitting-room the landlady often got much information from the fashionable world.
In January, 1848, Mr. Watkins fitted up a stage on runners and appropriately named it the "Snow Bird." It was placed on the "accommodation line " between
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Oxford and Norwich. A stove was securely fastened inside, which insured a comfortable ride.
Accidents were of occasional occurrence, of which we will mention one. On October 10, 1834, as the stage was near Unadilla on its way to Oxford, the horses be- came frightened at the bloody cloths about a butcher's wagon, ran away, and threw themselves with the coach, which was well filled with passengers, down a steep bank. The coach was crushed to pieces and two residents of Ox- ford were among the injured: the Rev. Mr. Bush receiv- ing a fracture of the collar bone, and Cyrus A. Bacon severe bruises about the head. One horse was instantly killed.
In 1848 A. H. Watkins & Co.'s Catskill route to New York was popular on account of the day arrangement. Covered carriages were run to Gilbertsville, and four- horse coaches from there to Catskill. The line left Oxford at 7 A. M. on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, remained over night at Stamford, making a passage to New York in two days with no traveling at night. Returning the stage left Catskill daily for the Chenango Valley; on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for Oxford, and on the alternate days for Greene and Ithaca.
Four-horse coaches in January, 1849, left Oxford daily, Sunday excepted, on arrival of accommodation line from Utica, and arrived in Deposit in time for the Erie train to New York. The fare was $5.15. The Monday morning stage left Oxford at midnight and run in time for trains to New York the same day.
In April, 1851, a stage commenced running tri-weekly between Oxford and Cooperstown, leaving the former place at 6 A. M. and arriving at the latter at 5 P. M., and return- ing on alternate days at the same hour.
In August, 1851, G. M. Bartle and I. Slater started a
-
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daily stage from Oxford to Deposit, leaving Oxford at 6:30 A. M., passing through Coventryville, South Bain- bridge, Vallonia Springs, Sanford Centre, and arrived at Deposit at 1 P. M., in time for the Express east. Re- turning it left Deposit at 7 A. M., after arrival of morning train from New York, reaching Oxford at 3 P. M.
In July, 1858, arrangements were made with the Syra- cuse and Binghamton and the Erie railroads, whereby passengers were receipted directly through to New York at the rate of $6.00. The stage left Oxford at 6:15 A. M., making connections at Chenango Forks and giving pas- sengers two hours in Binghamton, landing them in New York City the same evening.
In May, 1861, two lines of stages passed daily through Oxford and the fare was reduced to $5.85 to New York.
In June, 1866, Peter Packard started a stage line from Oxford to Unadilla to connect with the Albany and Sus- quehanna, now the Delaware and Hudson railroad. Leaving Oxford at 8 A. M., passengers reached Albany in time for evening boats on the Hudson river to New York. Later the stage line was changed to Sidney, and then to Bainbridge, as the railroad was extended to those places.
The year 1870 saw the last of the four-horse mail coach in the Chenango Valley, as the New York, Ontario and Western railway ran its first passenger and mail train into this town on the 21st day of February of that year, and the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western railroad was opened on the 19th of December of the same year.
O NE of the pastimes in early days was that of gather- ing at the river during Spring freshets and watch the lumber rafts float down stream to tidewater.
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As Tammie gloured, amazed and curious, The mirth and fun grew fast and furious .- BURNS,
River Bridge Bee.
The first bridge across the majestic Chenango at Ox- ford was built by Theodore Burr, an architect and famous bridge builder, from Egremont, Mass., in the year 1800. The second bridge was constructed under the direction of Jonathan Baldwin in 1823-4. At the commencement of this work it was necessary to procure the assistance of numbers of men and teams from the neighboring towns in drawing stone for the abutments and piers. This plan of united effort for a single object was to be termed a Bee. It was a new kind of one, though not the first.
In order to intensify the pro bono publico spirit which would prompt a general acceptance of the invitation to men with teams, on the laborious occasion, the committee resolved to celebrate the day, and at the same time pro- vide substantial beef rations, by roasting an immense ox on a frame or spit, after the manner of a grand barbecue.
On September 7, 1822, a meeting of the inhabitants of the village and town was held at Clark's Hotel, where the subject of a new bridge was discussed. In January, 1823, the following call was issued :
NOTICE
The undersigned Commissioners of OXFORD BRIDGE, request the inhabitants of Oxford, Smithville & Preston, to assist in drawing STONE from Mr. Abel Smith's to said bridge in this village, on Sat-
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urday next. As the people of the above towns are interested in re- pairing said bridge, it is expected a punctual attendance will be given.
S. BALCOM,
J. STRATTON, Com's.
S. PARKER,
Oxford, Jan. 28.
In February, 1823, another meeting was held and the following handbill was issued :
OXFORD
BRIDGE BEE.
[Cut of Ox as Roasting. ]
At a meeting of the inhabitants of Oxford, at Clark's Hotel, on the 19th of February, 1823, to take into con- sideration the Bridge about to be constructed over the Chenango,
HEZEKIAH MORSE, Chairman.
C. A. THORP, Secretary.
Resolved, That the inhabitants of Oxford, and the adjacent towns, be invited to attend in person, and with teams, on Friday the 28th February inst for the drawing of Stone necessary to the New Bridge.
Resolved, That Ransom Rathbone, Ira Willcox, Abijah Lobdell, Henry Mygatt, Epaphras Miller, and Erastus Perkins, be a committee in behalf of the village, to co-operate with the Commissioners in carry- ing the above project into effect.
Resolved, That Ethan Clark, George A. Cary, Uri Tracy, Jun., David St. John, Marcus Sherwood, Charles A. Hunt, Luther Newcomb, Ira M'Niel, Austin Rouse, Ebenezer Sherwood, Thomas Newkirk, Ros- well M'Call, George Farnham, Oliver T. Bundy, John W. Allen, Richard Van Wagenen, Frederick Stratton, Erastus Smith, George C. Billings, and Rufus Hopkins, be a committee of vigilance, whose duty it shall be to notify the people of the above meeting, and to give to the pro- ceedings of the day force and activity.
Resolved, That Amos A. Franklin, Otis J. Tracy, Samuel Cole, Solomon Dodge, Edward Loomis, Jeremiah Ten Brook, Asa Beverly, Shubal Coy, Samuel Lewis, Luther Osgood, Jesse Keech, Daniel Shum- way, Joseph Noyes, and Solomon Bundy, be appointed captains of the Bee, to direct the loading and unloading of teams, the whole to be under the superintendence of the commissioners.
The importance to the people of Oxford, and the neighboring towns, of having a firm and substantial Bridge across the Chenango, it is hoped, will procure a general attendance. The stone are quarried and in piles, and the sleighing is excellent. Those who have teams are
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solicited to come with them, and those who have no teams, are re- quested to attend to assist in the loading and unloading.
Five Hundred Dollars were required to be subscribed for the Bridge : more than that sum has been already subscribed. The object of this Bee is to increase the funds for building a permanent Bridge. The labour thus furnished by the liberality of individuals has no connection with the subscription.
A FAT OX will be roasted on the VILLAGE GREEN near the Bridge, and at five o'clock, each man who has participated in the labors of the day, will be at liberty to line his bread-basket with as much roast beef and trimmings, as he can conveniently carry. This repast, fur- nished through the patriotism of our citizens, will be offered to those only who assist in getting stone for the Bridge. Drones, poachers, and interlopers, whose only object is sport, will not be fed. To guard against imposition, tickets of admission to the supper table, will be distributed by the captains of the Bee. Capt. John Fisher, aided by several young men, will conduct the BARBECUE. The best of hay will be provided for the horses.
Gentlemen who reside in the adjacent villages, will confer a favor by procuring and sending labourers and teams. All who afford us assistance in any shape, are cordially invited to cut in for a lunch of the Ox.
SAMUEL BALCOM, - SIMEON PARKER, JOHN STRATTON,
Commissioners.
Oxford, February 22, 1823.
The great day finally dawned and with it came men and teams from far and near to assist, and those from opposite sides of the river vied with each other in getting first at the work. The day proved to be very stormy and intensely cold, but all worked diligently, and big bonfires were kindled to lessen the severity of the weather.
The ox had been roasted entire on a spit passing through its body, which was suspended between two wheels, and made to revolve over the fire for two days and a night in cooking it. Tickets, marked with the word " Barbecue," had been distributed among those who had assisted, who instantly thronged about the tables when roast ox was announced. Potatoes and bread in huge quantities were provided with the beef, and he was lucky who could fill both hands with the trio of edibles, as the foremost ones at the table were rudely pressed forward by hungry bat- talions in their rear.
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The air was full of chill, and many of the crowd were full of enthusiasm, as Ira Wilcox, the Fort Hill merchant, had been a very liberal provider of cider and whisky. After a terrible battle with the beef, in which scarcely a trace was left, their spirits rose to such a pitch that dishes and potatoes alike were sent sailing through the air. Amid frantic yells for more beef, when there was no beef, the jovial horde snatched the spit with the remains of the roast, composing the frame of the creature only, supported still by the two wheels, and gave an exhibition through the principal street on the west side of the vil- lage. They then rushed merrily singing across the bridge towards Fort Hill. It is impossible to impart the impres- sions which the sight, and especially the sounds of the procession, inspired in the minds of an unoffending pub- lic, except, that, in the case of the Fort Hill merchant, we are able to get a gleaning of his " impressions," as he afterwards sat on the occasion. Mr. Wilcox was stand- ing in his store door, when, as in a waking vision, he beheld the unusual spectacle bearing down upon him over the bridge. He stood, arrayed in all the stern dignity which he could wear so well, and withal, in a black suit of smoothest cloth. With glasses adjusted, and eyes riv- eted on the advancing apparition, he shouted :
" Don't you come over here with that; we won't have it! "
" Yes, we will, too!" was the reply in a chorus of babel voices.
Then, before the merchant prince could realize his posi- tion, he was seized and placed astride the moving carcass. The panorama passed on amid the cries of "Hail to the King!" with its added accumulation of backbone, which Mr. Wilcox was known to possess, through the streets
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