USA > New York > Chautauqua County > Biographical and portrait cyclopedia of Chautauqua County, New York : with a historical sketch of the county > Part 89
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WASHINGTON'S CHAUTAUQUA LAKE COR- RESPONDENCE .- This last, as well as other im- portant events, connected with the history of the county, of which we have given some ac- count in the preceding pages of this sketch, are referred to in a very interesting correspondence carried on after the close of the war, between General Washington and General William Ir- vine, who was then in command of Pittsburgh. Many interesting particulars are therein con- tained. No synopsis or abstracts from their cor- respondence could be as interesting and instruct-
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ing as the letters themselves ; we will therefore give a copy of the letters in full. Communica- tion between the waters of Lake Erie and the Ohio river, had been a subject of inquiry with certain distinguished gentlemen, and Gen. Washington, for information upon that subjeet, addressed a letter to Gen. Irvine, dated Janu- ary 10, 1788, inquiring of him :- 1. As to the face of the country between the source of canoe navigation of the Cuyahoga, which empties itself into Lake Erie, and the Big Bcaver, and between the Cuyahoga and the Muskingum." 2. As to the distance between the waters of the Cuyahoga and each of the two rivers above mentioned. 3. Whether it would be practiea- ble, and not expensive, to cut a canal between the Cuyahoga and cither of the above rivers, so as to open a communication between the waters of Lake Erie and the Ohio. 4. Whether there is any more direct, praetieable and easy com- munication than these, between the waters of Lake Erie and the Ohio, by which the fur and peltry of the upper country can be transferred. In answer to this letter, Gen. Irvine replied as follows :
NEW YORK, Jan. 27, 1788.
"SIR :- I have been honored by your letter of the 11th instant. I need not tell you how much pleasure it would give me to answer your queries to your satisfaction ; but I am persuaded that no observation short of an actual survey, will enable you to gratify your correspondents abroad, (particularly in relation to your third party,) with such accuracy as to state anything positively. I will, however, relate to you such facts as have come withiin my own knowledge, as well as accounts of persons whom I think are to be confided in.
" From a place called Mahoning, on the Big Beaver, to the head of the Falls of Cuyahoga, it is about thirty miles. Although the county is hilly, it is not mountainous. The principal elevation is called Beach Ridge, which is not high, though extensive, being several miles
over, with a flat and moist country on the sum- mit, and in some places inelining to be marshy. The difficulty of traveling is minch increased by the beech roots with which the timber is heavily incumbered. The Cuyahoga about the Great Falls is rapid and rocky, and is interrupted by several lesser falls, on the branch which heads toward the Big Beaver, called the Mahoning. This information I had from an intelligent per- son then loading a sloop at the mouth of the Cuyahoga for Detroit. He added that an old Indian assured him that it was only fifteen miles across from the Mahoning, to a navigable creek a few miles east of the Cuyahoga; that he had employed the Indian to clear a road, and when that was done he intended to explore the country himself. I presume this service was no performed, as this gentleman and his horses, were all destroyed and his store-house burned by the Indians. Captain Brady, a partisan officer, informed me that the sources of the Big Beaver, Muskingum, and a large deep creek which emptics into Lake Erie, fifteen or twenty miles above Cuyahoga, are within a few miles of each other (perhaps four or five), and the country level. Several other persons of credi- bility and information have assured me that the portage between Muskingum and the waters falling into the lake in wet seasons, does not exceed fifteen miles; some say two, but I be- lieve the first distance is the safest to credit.
" At Mahoning, and for many miles above and below, I found the course of the Big Beaver to be east and west, from which I concluded this streanı to be nearest to the main branch of the Cuyahoga; and on comparing the several accounts, I am led to think that the shortest communication between the waters of Beaver, Muskingum and Lake Erie, will be east and west of Cuyahoga.
" I have also been informned by a gentleman, that the sources of Grand river and a branch of the Beaver, called Shenango, are not twelve miles apart; the country hilly. I know the
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Shenango to be a boatable stream at its confluence with the Beaver twenty miles from the Ohio.
" I dropped down the Beaver from Maho- ning to the Great Falls (about seven miles from the Ohio) in a canoe, on the first day of July, 1784, without the least difficulty. At this season all the western waters are remarkably low; and although some ripples appear, there is nothing to cause any material obstruction. The falls at first view appear impracticable at low water, indeed, too difficult at any season ; nevertheless, they have been passed at all sea- sons. I met two men in a flat-bottomed boat a few miles above the falls, who had carried their cargo half a mile on shore, and then worked up their empty boat. They set with poles the rest of the way to Mahoning. The boat carried one and a half tons ; but in some seasons there will be water enough for loads of five tons. Canocs, it is said, have ascended twenty-five miles above the Mahoning, which certainly must be near one branch of the Muskingum, as it continues in a westerly course ; and the most easterly branch of that river, it is agreed by all who have been in that quarter, approaches very near to the waters falling into the lake; all agrce, likewise, that the rivers north of the dividing ridge are deep and smooth, the country being level.
" Following the Indian path, which generally keeps in the low ground along the river, the distance from the mouth of the Big Beaver to Mahoning, is abont fifty miles; which, from the computed distance to Cuyahoga, gives eighty miles in all. But I am certain a much better road will be found by keeping along the ground which divides the waters of the Big and Little Beavers.
" Bnt this digression I must bid your pardon for. To your further query, I think I shall be able to afford you more satisfaction, as I can point ont a more practicable and easy commu- nication by which the articles of trade you mention, can be transported from Lake Erie
than by any other hitherto mentioned route ; at least until canals are cut. This is by a branch of the Allegheny which is navigable by boats of considerable burden to within eight miles of Lake Erie. I examined a greater part of the communication myself, and such parts as I did not, was done by persons before and snbse- quent to my being there, whose accounts can scarce be doubted.
"From Fort Pitt to Venango by land, on the Indian and French path, is computed to be ninety miles ; by water it is said to be one-third more. But as you know the country so far, I will forbear giving a more particular account of it, but proceed to inform you, that I set out and traveled by land from Venango, though frequently on the beach or within high water mark, (the country being in many places impas- sable for a horse,) to a confluence of a branch of the river called Coniwango, which is about sixty-five miles from French Creek. The general course of the Allegheny between these two creeks is northeast. The course of the Coniwango is very near due north; it is about - yards wide. It is upwards of
yards, thirty miles from its confluence with the Allegheny at a fork. It is deep and not very rapid. To the Coniwango fork of the Allegheny the navigation is rather better than from Ven- ango to Fort Pitt. I traveled about twenty- five miles a day. Two Indians pushing a loaded canoe, and encamped with me every night. As the Coniwango is crooked, I think it must be forty miles from the Allegany to its fork by water. One of the forks continues in a northern direction abont seven miles to a beau- tiful lake. The lake is noticed on Hutchin's map by the name of Jadagne. The map is badly executed. It extends, from the best information I could obtain, to within nine miles of Lake Erie; it is from one to two miles broad, and deep enough for navigation. I was taken sick, which prevented my journey over to Lake Eric.
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"The following aeeount I had from a chief of the Seneca tribe, as well as from a white man named Matthews, a Virginian, who says he was taken prisoner by the Indians at Kanawha, in 1777. He has lived with the Indians since that time. As far as. I eould judge he appeared to be well acquainted with their part of the county. I employed him as interpreter. He states that from the upper end of Jadaqua lake, it is not more than nine miles along the path or road to Lake Erie, and that there was formerly a wagon road between the two lakes.
" The Indian related that he was about four- teen years old when the French went first to establish a post at Fort Pitt ; that he accompan- ied an uncle, who was a chief warrior, on that occasion, who attended the French ; that the head of Lake Jadaqua was the spot where the detachment embarked ; that they fell down to Fort Duquesne without any obstruction, in large canoes, with all the artillery, stores, pro- visions, etc. Hc added that French creek was made the medium of communication afterwards ; why, he could not tell, but always wondered at it, as he expressed himself, knowing the other to be so much better. The Seneca related many things to corroborate and convince me of its truth. He states that he was constantly em- ployed by the British during the late war, and had the rank of captain; and that he comman- ded the party that was defeated on the Allegheny by Colonel Broadhead; that in the year 1782, a detachment composed of 300 British and 500 Indians was formed, and actually embarked in canoes on Lake Jadaqua, with twelve pieces of artillery, with an avowed intention of attacking Fort Pitt. This expedition, he says, was laid aside, in consequence of the reported repairs and strength of Fort Pitt, earried by a spy from the neighborhood of the fort. They then contented themselves with the usual mode of warfare, by sending small parties to the frontier, one of which burned Hannastown. I remem- ber very well, in August, 1782, we picked up
at Fort Pitt a number of canoes which had drifted down the river ; and I received repeated accounts in June and July, from a Canadian who deserted to me, as well as from some friendly Indians, of this armament; but I never knew before then where they had assem- bled.
" Both Matthews and the Seneea desired to conduct me, as a further proof of their veracity, to the spot on the shore of Lake Jadaqua, where lies one of the four-pounders left by the French. Major Finley, who has been in that country since I was, informed me that he had seen the gun. Matthews was very desirous that I should explore the East fork of the Coni- wango; but my sickness prevented me. His account is it that is navigable about thirty miles up from the junction of the north and west branch, to a swamp which is about half a mile wide ; that on the north side of this swamp a large creek has its source called 'Cattarauge' (Cattaraugns), which falls into Lake Erie, forty miles from the foot of this lake ; that lie has several times been of partics who crossed over, carrying the canoes across the swamps. He added that the Cattarauge watcred much the finest country between Buffalo and Presque Isle.
" A letter has been published lately in a Philadelphia newspaper, written by one of the gentlemen employed in running the boundary line between New York and Pennsylvania, which fully supports these accounts. As well as I can remember, his words are: 'We pushed up a large branch of the Allegheny called Chata- glique (so he spells the name), which is from one-half mile to two or three wide, and near twenty long. The country is level and land good, to a great extent on both sides. We as- ceuded the dividing ridge between the two lakes. From this place a most delightful prospeet was open before us.' He then dwells on the scene before him and future prospects, not to the present purpose ; but concludes by saying that the waters of Lake Erie eannot be brought to
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the Ohio, as the summit of the dividing ridge is 700 feet higher than Lake Erie. 'We trav- elcd,' he continued, 'along the Indian path to the lake, which is only nine miles though very crooked. A good wagon road may be made, which will not exceed seven miles as the hill is not steep.'
" I regret that this detail has been extended to so great a length, for I fear that it will rather weary than afford you satisfaction. Being obliged to blend information of others with that which came within my own observation in some degree renders it unavoidable.
" I have the honor to be with great respect, " Your most obedient servant, " WILLIAM IRVINE."
This letter was copied by Dr. William A. Irvine, from the original lent to his father, Cal- lender Irvine, by Judge Washington ; and it contains perhaps the first written description extant of Chautauqua Lake and outlet.
General Washington answered this letter from General Irvine, as follows :
" MOUNT VERNON, 18 February, 1788.
" Sir :- I have to acknowledge the receipt of your favor of the 27th ult., and to thank you for the information contained in it. As a com- munication between the waters of Lake Erie and those of Ohio is a matter which promises great utility, and as every step towards the in- vestigation of it may be considered as promoting thic general interest of our country, I need make no apology to you for any trouble that I have given upon the subject.
"I am fully sensible that no account can be sufficiently accurate to hazard any operations upon, without an actual survey. My object in wishing a solution of the queries proposed to you, was that I might be enabled to return answers, in some degree satisfactory, to several gentlemen of distinction in foreign countries, who have appealed to me for information on the subject, in behalf of others who wish to engage
in the fur trade, and at the same time gratify my own curiosity, and assist me in forming a judgment of the practicability of opening com- munication should it even be seriously in con- templation.
"1. Could a channel once be opened to con- vey the fur and peltry from the lakes into the castern country, its advantages would be so obvions as to induce an opinion, that it would in a short time become the channel of convey- ance for much the greatest part of the commo- dities brought from thencc.
"2. The trade which has been carried on between New York and that quarter, is subject to great inconvenience, from the length of the . communication, number of portages, and, at seasons, from ice ; yet it has, notwithstanding, been prosecuted with success.
"I shall feel myself much obliged by any further information that you may find time and inclination to communicate to me on this head. I am, sir, with great esteem, your most obedient, &c. " GEORGE WASHINGTON."
General Irvine afterwards wrote to General Washington as follows :-
" NEW YORK, October 5, 1788.
"SIR: I do myself the honor to enclose a sketch of the waters of the Allegheny, which approach near to Lake Erie. It is taken from an actual survey made by the persons who ran the line between the states of New York and Pennsylvania. These gentlemen say, that the remaining branch of the Allegheny falls in Pennsylvania, and that there is only seven or eight miles of land carriage between it and the head branch of Susquehanna, called Tioga, which is navigable for large boats at most sea- sons. The navigation of the Caniwago, I know, is much preferable to French creek.
" I have the honor to be with the highest respect, sir, your excellency's most obedient and humble servant."
" WILLIAM IRVINE."
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This letter, the writer of this sketch for the first time caused to be publislied. It is found bound in a volume of the Washington papers, and is entered in an index of those papers made by Rev. Jared Sparks. It was probably written to Gen. Washington by the direction of Gen. Irvine. Accompanying this letter was an accurate map of "Chantaugh " Lake and " Conewango " river ; also the Chautauqua creek portage, from Lake Erie to Chautanqua Lake, and also the portage to Le Bœuf, and other localities. Washington replied to Gen. Irvine, as follows :
" MOUNT VERNON, October 31, 1788.
" DEAR SIR: The letter with which you favored me, dated the 6th inst., enclosing a sketch of waters near the line which separates your state from New York, came duly to hand, for which I offer you my acknowledgments and thanks.
" The extensive inland navigation with which this country abounds, and the easy communica- tion which many of the rivers afford, with the amazing territory to the westward of us, will certainly be productive of infinite advantage to the Atlantic states, if the legislatures of those through which they pass, have liberality and public spirit enough to improve them. For my part, I wish sincerely that every door to the country may be set wide open, that the com- mercial intercourse with it may be rendered as free and easy as possible. This, in my judg- ment, is the best, if not the only cement that can bind those people to us for any length of time, and we shall, I think, be deficient in foresight and wisdom if we neglect the means to effect it. Our interest is so much in unison with the policy of the measure, that nothing but that ill-timed and misapplied parsimony, and contracted way of thinking, which inter- mingles so much in all our public councils, ean counteract it.
" If the Chautauqua Lake, at the head of the
Connewango river, approximates Lake Erie as nearly as it is laid down in the draft you sent me, it presents a very short portage indeed between the two, and access to all those above the latter. I am, &c.
" GEORGE WASHINGTON."
HOLLAND PURCHASE .- Thesouthern bound- ary of the State of New York, the western por- tion of which constitutes the southern boundary of Chautauqua county, was run by David Rittenhouse and Andrew Ellicott and others, commissioners, in 1785, 1786 and 1787. The western boundary of the state, which forms also the western boundary of the county, was run in 1788 and 1789, by Andrew Ellicott, the sur- veyor-general of the United States. An initial monument was erected by him near the shore of Lake Erie, August 3, 1790. The variation of the needle was marked upon this monument as having then been 25' west. The declination of the needle at the same point in 1890 is 3º 55' west-a change in its declination of just 3º30' in just a century. This line is the me- ridian of the west end of Lake Ontario.
Immediately prior to 1788 the State of Mas- sachusetts held and owned the pre-emption right or fee of the land, subject to the title of the Indians, of all that part of the State of New York lying west of a line beginning on the northern boundary line of Pennsylvania, eighty- two miles west of the northeast corner of the last-mentioned State, and running thence due north through Seneca lake to Lake Ontario, excepting a mile in breadth along the east bank of the Niagara river. There was about six millions of acres of the lands owned by Massa- chusetts. All of the territory included in the county of Chautauqua was consequently a part of the lands there owned by that State. In that year the State of Massachusetts sold to Oliver Phelps and Nathanich Gorham about two mil- lions six hundred thousand acres of the eastern part of this land. In 1791 the State of Massa-
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chusetts conveyed all the lands now included within the limits of Chautauqua county, and other lands, to Robert Morris. In 1792 Robert Morris conveyed the lands now embraced within the limits of Chautauqua county, and other lands, to certain persons who were in fact trustees. These lands were purchased with the funds of certain gentlemen in Holland, and held by the grantees for their benefit. Being aliens, they could not by the laws of the State purchase and hold real estate in their own nanies. Finally these lands were conveyed by the trustees to the Holland Company, or rather to individuals in their own names, comprising the Company. The lands purchased by the Holland Company comprised all of the western counties of the State of New York, and are known as the " Holland Pur- chase."
The Indian title to these lands having been extinguished by a treaty, made with them in September, 1797, at Genesee, on the Genesee river, the Holland Company prepared to sur- vey them, and offer them for sale and settle- ment. Joseph Ellicott was employed to per- form this service. The survey was commenced in 1798, by running the eastern boundary of the " Purchase," which extended from the northi line of the State of Pennsylvania to Lake Ontario. By reason of the variation and un- certainty of the magnetic needle, this line was run by an instrument with a telescope, and without a needle, but constructed so as to afford an accurate manner of reversing, made for the purpose by Benjamin Ellicott, (the brother of Joseph Ellicott) which possessed the peculiari- ties and properties of what was then known as the " transit " instrument, (used to observe the transit of the heavenly bodies). This instru- ment so constructed by Ellicott, is believed to be the progenitor of the modern transits; an American instrument mnch used in American surveys, and more practical and expeditious in most surveys than the theodolite.
The line thus run, known as the Transit line,
constitutes the eastern boundary of the Holland purchase. It was a true meridian line, extend- ing north from the corner monument, estab- lished by the transit instrument, and astronom- ical observations to Lake Ontario. The lands of the Holland purchase were surveyed from this base line into townships and were situated in ranges, running from south to north. The townships in each range of townships, begin- ning at number one at the south, rising regular- ly in number to the north. The ranges in like manner, were numbered from the east, com- mencing at number one and ending with the fifteenth range. The county of Chautauqua comprises all of the townships of the 10th, .11th, 12th, 13th, 14th and 15th ranges. The townships were subdivided generally into six- ty-four lots, each of about three-fourths of a mile square, and consequently each lot contained about three hundred and sixty acres. The lots and the townships practically could not be laid off exactly uniform in shape and area.
During the years 1799 and 1800, the sur- veyors and their assistants in different parties, under the direction of Joseph Ellicott, camped in the dense forests that covered all of western New York, and prosecuted the survey of lands into townships until it was finished. The townships were afterwards surveyed by differ- ent parties into lots. The lands comprising the county of Chautauqua were among the later ones surveyed.
As soon as the surveys were completed set- tlers began to appear at different points upon the Purchase, and to take up lands for settle- ment. Before proceeding to give a history in detail, of the settlement of Chautauqua county by the settlers who purchased lands of the Hol- land company, it will be necessary to give some account of such attempts at settlement, as were made immediatly previous to such purchase.
PIONEER SETTLEMENT .- As a result of Sullivan and Broadhead's expeditions against the Indians in 1779, and the destruction of
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their towns, and of the products of their fields which was accomplished as their harvests were ripening, the Indians of the Genesee and Alle- glieny rivers were without shelter and without food. The winter of 1779 and 1780, was one of unexampled severity. Such deep snows, and such ice, had not been known in the mem- ory of the oldest natives. Deer and turkics died in the woods for want of food by hun- dreds. Great numbers of Indians perished during the winter of cold and starvation. To escape general destruction, the Indians fled to Fort Niagara for shelter and relief. There, to add to their desolation a fatal disease induced by unusual exposure swept them off in great numbers. As the Indians had freely shed their blood during the war, and now had suffered almost annihilation for their faithful adherence to the cause of the king, the British authorities could not without gross ingratitude omit to pro- vide for their relief. Large numbers of Indians had gathered around the fort, and along the river Niagara, and during the winter had fed from the British stores. To relieve themselves from this burden, the British Government en- couraged the Indians to establish themselves at convenient places, and obtain support by culti- vating the land.
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