USA > New York > Dutchess County > Dutchess county > Part 14
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In 1741 Bishop David Nitschman, associate of Count Zinzendorf, the founder of the Missionary movement, visited Shekomeko; and soon after- ward Gottlob Buettner, a missionary from Bethlehem, Pa., came to stay. Count Zinzendorf himself visited Shekomeko with his daughter in the summer of 1742. Six Indians were baptised during Zinzendorf's visit, and a regular congregation was formed. The next year a bark-covered chapel was erected by the little group and the congregation grew to 63 members. Although German Protestant and quite without political or national bias, the missionaries were bitterly denounced as Jesuits, in league with the French.
The Brothers of the Mission were brought to trial a number of times, each trial resulting in a clear acquittal. Finally on Dec. 17, 1744, they
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were summoned to Poughkeepsie on an arbitrary charge of aiding the French, and were definitely ordered to leave the country.
The Indian congregation subsisted until its members were driven by force from Shekomeko on the pretense that they did not own the land. In February, 1745. Buettner, who had been unable to leave because of illness, died at the age of 29, and was buried by his Indian converts shortly before they scattered. A monument replacing the defaced original was erected over his grave in 1869 by the Moravian Historical Society. SMITHFIELD, 9 m. (800 alt., 40 pop.), is a village with a cluster of attractive houses under fine old trees. Settled about 1712, the village stood at the center of an age-old hunting ground of the Pequot Indians. At a bend of the road, overlooking the cluster of houses, is the PRES- BYTERIAN CHURCH (L), a square, low Greek Revival structure with Ionic porch columns, imposing in its simplicity. The dilapidated old horse-sheds still stand at the E. side. The burying ground across the road contains headstones bearing dates as early as 1757. At the en- trance to the burying ground is a LARGE OAK TREE under which the great Methodist divine, George Whitefield, preached on June 19, 1770, a few months before his death. His sermons drew settlers from a 50-mile area; the crowd filled the graveyard and overflowed to sur- rounding fields.
Leaving Smithfield, the road winds through woods to a junction with US 44, W. of Amenia.
Retrace route to State 82.
On State 82 BRIARCLIFF FARMS, 1.4 m. (R), a center for prize Aberdeen-Angus cattle, are owned by Oakleigh Thorne of Millbrook. Milk Lake, on the farm at 2 m. (R), is so called because of the unusual white strip through its center. In stormy weather the streak widens and covers three-quarters of the lake surface.
At .7 m. is junction with dirt road.
Left on this road is HUNNS LAKE, 2 m. (80 acres), a private summer resort.
At 7.7 m. is junction with dirt road.
Left on this road is BANGALL, .4 m. (400 alt., 60 pop.), a small village which owed its growth to the New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R. (formerly the Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut).
STANFORDVILLE, 8.5 m. (327 alt., 111 pop.).
Railroad Station: New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R. (freight service only). Busses : Mid-county busses stop on signal.
This is a one-street village on the hillside with church, school, and general store. The history of Stanfordville is that of the decadence of a small inland manufacturing center. Neither Bangall nor Stanfordville has shared in the suburban trend swelling the larger towns of the county. Both are agricul- tural communities, with social activities, centered in the school, churches, and grange.
At 10.5 m. is junction with dirt road.
Right on this road is UPTON LAKE, 3 m. (L), (70 acres), a summer resort for camping, boating, bathing, and fishing.
South, the road is flanked by rich pasture lands and well cultivated farms.
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At 14.5 m. is an old MILL (L), once part of a large cotton manufactur- ing plant.
At 15.9 m., beside the old County Fair grounds of Washington Hollow (L), is the junction with US 44.
TOUR 2
Poughkeepsie-New Hackensack-Hopewell Junction-Pawling-Dover
Plains-Amenia. State 376, 52, 216, 55, 22.
Poughkeepsie-Amenia, 53.3 m.
Road is 2-lane, chiefly macadam. Local bus lines.
This route makes a triangle covering a large part of Dutchess County. The entire route lies in a region of valley farms and foothills, rich in his- toric interest. The road curves and dips constantly, with few level stretches. Section a. Poughkeepsie-Gayhead. State 376, 15.4 m.
This section of the route between Poughkeepsie and Pawling is the direct way between Poughkeepsie and southeastern points. The section on State 22, between Pawling and Amenia, follows the historic Harlem Valley con- necting New York and the north.
The route starts at the Court House, Poughkeepsie.
R. on Main St. to intersection with Raymond Ave. R. on Raymond Ave. to State 376.
At 1.9 m. is Vassar College (L).
At 2.7 m. the route bears L. on State 376.
At 4 m. is GRAY'S RIDING ACADEMY (L), the headquarters of the Rombout Riding and Hunt Club. The Vassar Horse Show is held here annually early in May ; hunter trials are held in October.
At the entrance to the academy a lane (L ) leads to the DuBOIS HOUSE, built in 1774 by Lewis DuBois. The front and gable-end walls are of yellow- painted brick, the thick rear wall of stone. The mansard roof, the porch, windows and shutters are alterations. The center hall and two adjacent rooms belong to the original design. Fine woodwork, a panelled dado, and staircase are the chief remnants of the 1774 interior.
The land was part of the Rombout Patent of 1685. The builder was a captain of the Continental Army in the Battle of Quebec, later promoted to the rank of major, and still later to general of the New York Militia. Subsequent owners include members of the Livingston, Greenleaf, Ingraham, Adriance and Varick families.
Just beyond the academy is the entrance (R) to GREENVALE PARK, where Wappinger Creek provides excellent swimming facilities. The stream at this point is approximately 75 ft. wide, with a depth varying from 2 to 15 ft. A large shallow area affords ideal wading for children. There are parking fields, picnic grounds, horseshoe pitching courts, and bath houses for men and women.
At 5 m. is the POUGHKEEPSIE AIRPORT (R), a private enterprise. The route bears left on State 376.
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From this point the curves of Wappinger Creek are followed through woods and pasture.
At 5.1 m. a concrete bridge crosses Wappinger Creek. The old dam is the site of a vanished grist mill ; and immediately S. is RED OAK MILLS (R), a picnic and bathing spot.
Many bungalows, recently built between Red Oak Mills and New Hackensack, are the homes of people who work in Poughkeepsie. They repre- sent the same suburban trend found E. of the city in the villages of Washington Hollow and Pleasant Valley.
At 6.8 m. is the STEPHEN THORN HOME (L), a brick residence painted white. The inscription on the cornerstone of the modern stone chimney reads : "Stephen Thorn-1772." The dormers, the rear frame addition, and the Greek Revival porch are of a later period.
The site is part of land deeded by the Indians in 1700 to Stephen Van Cortlandt, one of the original Rombout patentees. He held this land until 1733, when it passed to his sister, Mrs. John Schuyler, who sold it in 1734 to Tunis Van Benschoten. Samuel Thorn of Westchester subsequently acquired 210 acres, which were inherited by his son, Dr. Stephen Thorn, who built the house.
A ghost story is told about a maid of the Thorns who was said to have been bewitched by a peddler because she refused to kiss him. Strange rappings followed her through the house and the furniture moved mysteriously. The peddler was finally traced and confessed to causing the disturbance. He de- clared it would cease when a large stone in the attic was rolled down stairs. Such a thing came to pass and the trouble ended.
At 6.9 m. is the entrance (R) to the NEW HACKENSACK AIR- PORT, owned by the Federal Government, opened in 1932 as an emergency landing field. It lies in the direct airline between New York, Albany, and Montreal; measures 2,760 ft. by 2,110 ft .; is lighted and marked according to regulations; and is open 24 hours a day. The apparatus includes a wall map charting air beacons throughout the United States; a sending and re- ceiving radio to check the course of planes; a teletype, which constantly re- ports weather conditions.
The REFORMED DUTCH CHURCH, 6.9 m. (L), built in 1834, is a brick structure painted white. It is a curious combination of Greek and Gothic details. Buttresses to support the outer walls were a later addition. Windows and buttresses are pointed ; portico and cornice are Greek Doric.
The congregation was formed in 1765. In 1766 Joris Brinckerhoff gave land for a church and burying ground. A wooden edifice was completed in 1766 and remained in use until 1834, when the present structure replaced it.
On the north side of the church the site of the original building is marked by the grave of the first resident pastor, Dominie Isaac Rysdyck, who in 1765 came to America from Holland to serve the Reformed Dutch churches of Poughkeepsie, Fishkill, New Hackensack, and Hopewell. He served the latter two churches until his death. A student of Greek, Latin, and Hebrew, he was, during part of his ministry, in charge of the Dutchess County
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Academy at Fishkill. He died in 1790, leaving behind him a reputation as "the most learned man in the Dutch Church of America."
The cemetery adjoining the church contains many early graves. The tomb of Johannes Schurrie (d. 1784) is inscribed :
"Behold and see as you pass by As you are now so once was I As I am now so you must be Prepare for death and follow me."
The WORONOCK INN, 7.1 m. (R), a long white frame building with a two-storied porch, is said to date from 1750, although the visible details are of a later period.
NEW HACKENSACK, 7.4 m. (110 alt., 130 pop.).
Busses: Local lines.
Accommodations: Woronock Inn.
State 376 cuts through the village down an arch of great elms and locusts.
The first settlers came here about 1750 from Hackensack, N. J., and named the hamlet New Hackensack. The region is still a highly productive farming country.
In the center of the village is junction (R) with a country road.
Right, on this road, is the JACOB VAN BENSCHOTEN TELLER HOUSE, .5 m. (R), erected about 1830. The land on which it stands was part of the estate left by Jacob Van Benschoten (d. 1830) to his four nephews, each of whom was named for him. Jacob V. B. Teller, one of these nephews, built the present house. It is a two and one-half story white frame structure in the Greek Revival style; the portico has four fluted Doric columns 2 stories in height.
OLD HUNDRED, 7.5 m. (L), a white farmhouse, was built in 1754 by Joseph Horton. The roof is a characteristic Dutch gambrel, more common in New Jersey than New York. The front is of brick painted white ; side and east additions are frame. The stairs and the panelled fireplace walls of the living room and kitchen are Colonial.
The doors have some of their original wrought-iron hardware; the front door has exceptionally broad boards and handwrought nails.
Behind Old Hundred is the JANE RESIDENCE, an imposing mansion of brick painted white, of the Greek Revival style, set in a grove of aged hickory and locust trees.
At 10.2 m., beyond Sprout Creek bridge, is CRYSTAL SPRING MANOR (L), a red brick gambrel mansion of 19 rooms, 11/2 stories high, erected in 1768 by Philip Verplanck, Jr. The date is built in the southwest wall in black brick figures 2 ft. high. Col. Richard Van Wyck, an officer of the Dutchess County militia and sheriff in 1819, purchased the home in 1827. The front and end walls are of brick, the rear of stone. The front facade has three dormers and delicate Corinthian fluting. The Dutch door with its two glass bulls-eyes, handwrought hinges, and brass knocker, is original. The broad hall which cuts through the whole depth has carved wainscoting 33/4 ft. high.
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FISHKILL PLAINS, 10.5 m. (300 alt., 60 pop.), is a one-street country hamlet with general store, blacksmith shop, and garages.
South, the road ascends a mile-long hill. From the top of the grade is a view (R) to the Fishkill Mountains.
Here the road makes a U turn and descends to the village of HOPE- WELL JUNCTION, 12.5 m. (220 alt., 305 pop.), once an important freight junction of the Central New England and Newburgh, Dutchess & Connecticut R. Rs. Both lines have been absorbed by the New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R. The junction gave origin to the village in 1869 and was once on a direct railroad route from Boston to Washington. Passenger service was discontinued several years ago.
At 13.2 m. beyond the railroad tracks, is junction with State 82, the Mid-County Highway.
Left on State 82 is the OLD BEEKMAN ROAD, .4 m. Straight ahead on broken macadam of the Old Beekman Road is OLD HOPEWELL, .9 m. (300 alt., 65 pop.), settled in 1750 by Aaron Stockholm of Long Island, farmer and grist mill operator. Captain Thomas Storm was another early settler.
The REFORMED DUTCH CHURCH, I m. (L), is a yellow-painted brick building with four white columns, built in 1833 on the site of a church dating from 1764. The adjacent cemetery contains graves of the first settlers. Among them is that of Garret, son of Capt. Thomas Storm, who died in 1776, aged 2 years. It is inscribed, "I was born, look't round and died."
At 2.5 m. is junction with the EASTERN STATE PARKWAY (not open in spring of 1937).
At 2.7 m. is the STORM-ADRIANCE-BRINCKERHOFF HOUSE (L), a white frame residence with a red roof, surrounded by a white picket fence. On the lawn is a concrete marker recording Washington's sojourn here in 1778 when the army was marching from Fishkill to Connecticut. On that occasion, the commander-in-chief mildly rebuked the assembled residents for what he considered uncalled for obeisance. A rude stone bowl set on the marker is an Indian handmill found on the premises.
The western or left end of the house is the oldest part. Porches and dormers are modern. In parts of the interior the old hand-hewn beams are still visible. A Dutch oven projects from the wall at the end of the oldest part. Some of the doors have original HL hinges. A trap-door in the old sitting room leads to a cellar where Capt. Thomas Storm is said to have kept his prisoners during the Revolution.
Left, a dirt road north of the Storm-Adriance-Brinckerhoff House leads to Sylvan Lake (see p. 134.)
At junction, State 52 turns R. into State 82, and 200 ft. W. turns L.
At 14.3 m. is the entrance (L) to EMMADINE FARMS, model dairy and stock farms owned by J. C. Penny, chain store magnate. The enterprise includes 1,000 acres of land, and supports a herd of 500 Guernsey cattle. The milk product is distributed directly from the farms to consumers.
At 16.1 m. is the once thriving village of GAYHEAD (officially known as EAST FISHKILL) (300 alt., 40 pop.), now merely a junction for State 376 and State 54.
A mill pond (L) and an old dam (R) are remnants of a 19th century
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grist mill. A local tradition asserts that the town came by its name because of an early inhabitant who wore bright feathers in his cap. The first settler was Aaron Van Vlack, a Hollander, who bought 500 acres from Madam Brett when the countryside was yet a wilderness. His son, Tunis, built the first grist mill by the pond.
Section b. Gayhead-Pawling. State 52, 216, 55. 14.8 m.
In Gayhead the route bears L. from State 376 on State 52.
At .9 m. is underpass beneath the EASTERN STATE PARKWAY. This was the northern terminus of the parkway in the spring of 1937.
At 2.9 m. is road (L) down which Sibyl Ludington, daughter of a colonel of Continental militia, galloped on the night of April 26, 1777, to rouse the men of her father's regiment for a sally against British forces at Danbury, Conn.
At 3 m. is junction with State 216 (L). The route turns L. on State 216.
Straight ahead on State 52 is STORMVILLE, .3 m. (340 alt., 157 pop.), settled in 1730 by Garret George, and Isaac Storm. The village had 20 houses in 1860 and has changed little since then. Villagers still tell the story of Polly Tidd, who was kidnapped with a brother and sister by Indians from the family home 7 m. east. The brother was killed in nearby woods. Polly and her sister were carried across the Hudson and adopted by a tribe of Delaware Indians.
One of the braves demanded Polly's sister in marriage. She refused and was slain. Later Polly received a similar demand. Warned by a friendly squaw to remember her sister's fate, she accepted. Two boys were born from the marriage. The young mother several years later escaped with her children to her old home, and found that her parents had died. After difficulty she established her identity, and recovered her father's property. The two sons died in early manhood. Polly lived alone until her death at an advanced age.
Beyond the village, the road crosses wooded hills which offer panoramic views across the Hudson Valley, with the slopes of the Highlands S. and the blue lines of the Catskills N.
At 3.7 m. is the entrance (R) to the LINCOLN DUDE RANCH, with recreational facilities simulating those of a western ranch. A small lake provides bathing, boating, and fishing; bridle paths radiate from the main building.
PECKSVILLE, 5.3 m. (600 alt., 30 pop.), is an unmarked crossroads with a one-room general store and a half dozen houses. An unusually large grave in the old burying ground (R) near the crossroads is said to be the last resting place of one of Polly Tidd's sons. In the orchard at the top of the hill is the rock on which the Indians are said to have tomahawked her brother.
On State 216 at 4.1 m. is the STORMVILLE SPEEDWAY (R), an oval dirt track, one-half mile long, the scene of auto races every other Sun- day afternoon from Memorial Day until late November.
BROAD ACRES, 4.8 m. (L), close to the highway, is a large farm op- erated by the Hudson River State Hospital.
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GREEN HAVEN, 5.2 m. (380 alt., 112 pop.), is the home of the Hud- son Valley Nurseries (L), operated by the State Conservation Department.
At 5.9 m. is the entrance (L) to LIME RIDGE FARM, a private estate of 1,200 acres with large fruit orchards, owned by A. H. Fortington. Lime Ridge apples have an exclusive New York City market and many are ex- ported to Europe. The owner maintains a kennel for pedigreed dogs and a stable of thoroughbred horses. At the center of the farm is a private airport, well lighted and marked, with an expert mechanic always on duty.
POUGHQUAG, 7.9 m. (400 alt., 180 pop.), (Indian for round lake), a little hamlet with an old-time atmosphere. The village store is the tradi- tional rendezvous of local yarn-spinners.
For the next 2 miles the road follows a narrow, wooded valley, paralleling the course of a clear mountain brook with numerous rapids and waterfalls.
At 10 m. is junction with State 55. The route turns L. on State 55. STONEHOUSE (L) now vacant is a landmark, recorded on old county maps, and once served as a post office for about 15 families.
Right on State 52 to WHALEY LAKE (L), 1.7 m. (690 alt.), 21/2 m. long x 1/2 m. wide, the largest lake and most popular lake resort in
Dutchess County. The road skirts the shore which is bordered by summer cottages. Set in the midst of wooded hills, the lake offers bath- ing, boating and fishing facilities.
At 6.4 m. is the Dutchess-Putnam County line.
State 55 climbs Pawling Mountain. The steepest grade of ascent is reached at 10.9 m .; the crest of the hill is at 11.3 m. The steep, twisting road descends for nearly a mile.
The steep, twisting road descends for nearly a mile.
PAWLING, 13.7 m. (420 alt., 1,204 pop.).
Railroad Stations: New York Central R. R. (Harlem Valley Division).
Busses: Two bus lines.
Accommodations: Dutcher House, Hayes Hotel, Pawling Inn. Motion Picture Theatre: One.
The village, lying in the Pawling-Dover valley, was settled about 1740 by English Quakers. The first hamlet was known as Gorsetown; the present name derives from the Paulding or Pawling family, Colonial landholders.
The business section is confined to Main and Railroad Sts. with residential streets radiating from this center. The railroad bisects the village. Farming is locally on the decline and the land is being bought up by New Yorkers as summer estates.
The village has been an important dairying center since 1850 and once shipped 200,000 quarts of milk a day to New York City. Upstate and western competition has closed several of the shipping stations.
State 55 follows West Main St. and Main St. (R) through the village.
At 14.5 m. is the Pawling nine-hole GOLF COURSE (R), once the farm of William Prendergrast, leader of the Anti-Rent Rebellion of 1766. (See p. 12.)
At 14.6 m. is the JOHN KANE HOUSE (L), a white frame residence. The original building was occupied by Washington from Sept. to Nov. 1778,
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and a copper tablet commemorating the fact is affixed to a large sycamore tree on the lawn. The tree was used as a whipping post by Continental offi- cers during the war. The present house was built in the 1830's, except for the kitchen wing, with small-paned windows and a Dutch oven (bricked up), which may have formed part of the original house.
At 14.8 m. is the junction with State 22. The main route turns L. on State 22. Here also is junction with Quaker Hill Road. (See Tour No. 2 A.)
Right on State 22, just S. of the intersection, is a sign (L) indicating PURGATORY HILL, so named because "it is halfway between Quaker Hill and everywhere else." Continental troops camped here from 1778 to· 1779.
At 1.4 m. is the entrance (L) to MANUMIT SCHOOL, a co-educational elementary school for children from 5 to 12 years of age, the curriculum extending through the eighth grade and preparing students for high school. It is a non-profit-sharing corporation, founded in 1924 by the late William Mann Fincke, and directed by William Mann Fincke, Jr., with a staff of 22 instructors and counselors. The school. is housed in five frame buildings, with 175 acres of wood and farm land attached. It is an experimental institution designed as a correlating link between city and farm life; the students are employed upon the farm in duties suitable to their age. Adequate recreational facilities are provided.
Section c. Junction of State 55 and State 22-Amenia. State 22. 23.1 m.
This is the Harlem Valley route along the east border of Dutchess Coun- ty, paralleling the Harlem Valley Division of the New York Central R. R. Underpasses are all old and narrow. The pavement is for the most part macadam with sharp curves. The plain is cut by the Ten Mile River, formed by the confluence of Webatuck and Wassaic Creeks. The scenery is attractive.
At .9 m. is the GRAVE OF ADMIRAL JOHN LORIMER WOR- DEN (L), marked by a large gray granite tombstone with an anchor in bas-relief. Born in 1816, Admiral Worden was commander of the ironclad Monitor in the battle with the Merrimac in 1862, and in 1863 commanded the Montauk in the operation against Fort Sumter. From 1870 to 1874 he was superintendent of the Naval Academy at Annapolis, and from 1875 to 1877 commanded the European - squadron.
At 1.1 m. is the PAWLING SCHOOL FOR BOYS (R), a college preparatory school accommodating 250 boys, founded in 1907 by Dr. Fred- erick L. Gamage. The brick buildings stand on a hillside commanding a view of the Harlem Valley.
At 3.1 m. is the entrance (L) to the SHEFFIELD-PAWLING FARMS, with model wood and stone buildings. Most of the milk supply from this section of the Harlem Valley is handled here.
North of this point the road is hilly and winding, and there are few houses. On both sides of the highway are wild growths of young trees and underbrush.
At 5.9 m. is the entrance (R) to the HARLEM VALLEY STATE
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HOSPITAL for the mentally defective. A small city in itself, it occupies 1,200 acres and is planned to accommodate over 4,000 patients and a per- sonnel of 900. Originally designed as a prison, three buildings were started in 1912. They stood vacant until 1924, when the New York State Department of Mental Hygiene took them over. Other groups of buildings have since been added, the latest in 1932.
At 6.8 m. on a slight elevation at the north end of the grounds, stands the ALFRED WING HOMESTEAD (R), a white frame residence in a grove of old trees, built about 1849. Greek Revival in style, it was con- siderably altered when the hospital buildings were erected. It is now occupied by the steward of the hospital. The portico has square wooden columns, and the exterior and interior molding is Greek in design.
At 7 m. is the JACKSON WING INN (L), a two-story red brick building with a hipped gambrel roof resembling the later French mansard. The 24 windows have flat brick arches. The south end and west wings are clapboarded. The gable on the west wing is the only one on the building.
The numerous Wing family and their kinsmen, the Prestons, were prom- inent in the early settlement of the region. Jackson Wing is said to have built the house in 1806, and it soon became a favorite drovers' hostelry on the Harlem Valley road. Known as the Moosehead Tavern, it was used at one time for local elections. There were many such taverns in the late Colonial period, but this and the Old Drovers Inn 3.8 m. N. (See below), are the only two remaining today. The road was already well traveled by 1775, and by 1800 an increasing number of Vermont and New Hampshire farmers used it to drive their livestock to market in New York City. A map dated 1814, now in the office of the clerk of Dutchess County, shows both these hostelries, and describes the highway as "The Great road from New York to Albany and Vermont, much traveled by Drovers and others."
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