USA > New York > Wayne County > History of Central New York : embracing Cayuga, Seneca, Wayne, Ontario, Tompkins, Cortland, Schuyler, Yates, Chemung, Steuben, and Tioga Counties, Volume I > Part 31
USA > New York > Cayuga County > History of Central New York : embracing Cayuga, Seneca, Wayne, Ontario, Tompkins, Cortland, Schuyler, Yates, Chemung, Steuben, and Tioga Counties, Volume I > Part 31
USA > New York > Seneca County > History of Central New York : embracing Cayuga, Seneca, Wayne, Ontario, Tompkins, Cortland, Schuyler, Yates, Chemung, Steuben, and Tioga Counties, Volume I > Part 31
USA > New York > Ontario County > History of Central New York : embracing Cayuga, Seneca, Wayne, Ontario, Tompkins, Cortland, Schuyler, Yates, Chemung, Steuben, and Tioga Counties, Volume I > Part 31
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Early historians give the number of Indians who were in attendance as between 1,000 and 1,400. Col. Pickering stated that there were "upwards of 1,000." and, as he had to feed them, it is likely that his count was correct. Among the prominent Indian chiefs present were Red Jacket, Cornplanter, Farmer's Brother, Little Billy, Fish Carrier and Hendrick Apaumet.
The treaty was called to be held at "the Painted Post," but, owing to the low stage of water in the Chemung River, it was by agreement held at Newtown. The Indians were encamped along the western part of the village, from about the present site of the Rathbun House to the upper part of the city. Among the early pioneers who attended the treaty were Col. John Hendy, Col. Matthias Hollenback, Elisha Lee, Eleazer Lindley and Wil- liam Jenkins. Among the papers preserved in reference to the treaty was the copy of a release from the Six Nations to Phelps and Gorham, presented to Colonel Pickering, and the certificate signed by him, dated at Newtown Point in the State of New York, July 26, 1791. It states that, the day before, the principal sachems of the Senecas assured him that they were satisfied with the treaty at Buffalo Creek in 1788. The council was the last gathering of the Indians in the County of Chemung.
Long years ago, shortly after the settlement of this locality, before the advent of the canal and the railroad, when plank roads and turnpikes were common, and the only mode of transporta- tion was by the now antiquated stage coach, could be found the early taverns.
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About the time that Newtown Point was settled, among the first institutions to be set up, after the establishment of Hollen- back's trading post, was that of a tavern, but far from resem- bling the same institutions of this period.
In those early settlement days the taverns were built of hewn logs, the same as were the homes of our ancestors. The first of these taverns was on Sullivan Street, near to Newtown Creek, and was called the Stoner House. Dunn & Hornell were its proprietors. Thomas Maxwell, in the directory of Elmira in 1863, tells of a Court of Oyer and Terminer being held at this place, before the old log courthouse was built.
Mr. Maxwell also makes mention of the old "Black Horse Tavern," run by William Dunn, at the northeast corner of Water and Lake Streets, and which, with barns and sheds, occupied about 200 feet of land between the corner and where Carroll Street now is. William Dunn died, and his widow afterward married John Davis, who tended bar for Mr. Dunn. The tavern was from that time on known as the John Davis tavern, and was an important stage stop in all directions from the village.
The Kline House, run by John Kline, stood near the site of Madison Avenue bridge. Mr. Kline also ran the "ferry" which did duty there in carrying passengers who wished to cross the river in the early days of the village's existence, and until the erection of the wooden bridge, which spanned the river at Lake Street, the first bridge to be built over the river in the village. The Kline House was honored in having as a guest, for about ten days, in 1797, Louis Phillippe, who later became the citizen King of France.
The old Mansion House stood on the south side of Water Street, a little east of Baldwin Street, and was kept by Judge Bundy. It was a rambling, disjointed sort of a structure. The Masonic Lodge held its meetings there at the time. Communica- tions were suspended because of the Morgan trouble, in 1828. Hogan's Tavern, a red dilapidated building, situated on Water Street, a little west of Baldwin Street, was the headquarters for the workers who helped to dig the Chemung Canal.
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The tavern kept by Hawks & Dunn stood on the north side of Water Street next to the canal. In the upper story of this building were held the first theatrical performances to be held in Elmira village. Those who took part later on made their mark in the profession. The "orchestra" consisted of a single violin. The old Jerry Sullivan wooden tavern was a great rallying place and stood on the bank of the river just west of the railroad bridge.
There was another Mansion House conducted by E. Jones, which stood at the corner of Lake Street and Cross (now Mar- ket) Street, was quite a respectable hostelry and patronized by the better class of citizens. It was burned while Silas Height was proprietor. He rebuilt it and it was burned again. After it was rebuilt this time it became the property of Col. Samuel Gilbert Hathaway, who gave it his name. After its usefulness as a hotel had passed, it became the home of the Elmira Adver- tiser, until it was destroyed by fire on the night of February 15, 1888.
The Eagle Tavern, one of the most respectable hotels in this section was erected on Water Street in 1833. It was destroyed by fire, September 7, 1849. The proprietor, E. R. Brainard, re- built it the following year, calling it the Brainard House. Later on it came into possession of John T. Rathbun, who gave it his name, by which it is known today, the Hotel Rathbun.
The Franklin House was formerly the home of Judge Theo- dore North and was located at the northeast corner of Main and Water streets. It is said that during the Civil war, the members of a Michigan regiment picked up the bar and carried it out doors and placed it on the sidewalk, because the landlord refused to cater to their demands. When they got through with the hotel it was pretty much a wreck. The hotel was burned in 1866.
The Elmira House, located just west of the Chemung Canal on Water Street, where State Street now is, was the meeting place of farmers who visited the city from miles around and came to market their products and do their trading. It had com- modious hitching stables attached, where teams could be cared for and fed, while they regaled themselves at the hotel. The
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Elmira House was noted for its good meals and the fine quality of its liquid refreshments. On March 24, 1874, fire started in the sheds connected with the hotel, and spread rapidly, consum- ing bulidings on both sides of Water Street, between what is now Exchange Place and the railroad.
The Pattinson House was at one time, in fact about 1850, one of the leading hotels in the village, and at a time when a good hotel was sadly needed. The Eagle Hotel had been burned and was being rebuilt, as was also the Haight Hotel on the Mo- hican corner. It was at the time when the New York & Erie Railroad had just been completed as far as Elmira. The travel- ers were many, but nevertheless the Pattinson House looked after them.
At the time of the celebration of the opening of the New York and Erie at Elmira, in May, 1851, President Fillmore and mem- bers of his cabinet, with Daniel Webster, William H. Seward, and the president and directors of the railroad, were at the hotels, speaking from their verandas. In all probability, there has never been a time since when so many notables were here at the same time, for any one occasion.
The Chemung House was located across from the Pattinson, and catered somewhat to the city trade, but had a large patron- age from the farmers. Another well-known hotel was the West End, which was patronized by farmers and horsemen for many years. It lately passed in 1929 like many others, a prey to the flames. There was on the Avenue, the Delavan House, opened in 1853 as a temperance hotel and the Frasier House and Ameri- can House near by. All catered to the traveling public, being in near proximity to the Erie station. The Washington Hotel stood at the corner of Main and Water Street, across the street from the Franklin House, near the bridge, on the bank of the river. The Wyckoff House was conducted on West Water Street for a number of years.
Near the south end of Lake Street bridge, in the "Third Ward" was located the "Third Ward Hotel," and is now used as a residence.
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Near Lake Street bridge on the south side of the river was erected in about 1830, a three-story hotel with an interesting inscription over the door, "Auster Portus Diversoriun." A mis- take in ending the last word in n instead of m caused consider- able confusion. It was intended to mean "South Port Hotel."
The old Mountain House stood about a mile to the west of the Fitch bridge. It probably had a career equaled by no other resort in this vicinity. At the beginning it is said that it catered to the better class, and made a specialty of exclusive dancing par- ties, and was noted for its Sunday dinners.
John Carpenter kept the "Half Way House," between this city and Horseheads. A fine well, on the street in front of the house, afforded a splendid watering place for horses, and the traveler had a chance to console the inner man within the hotel. Just back of the Half Way House was an excellent half-mile track, where first-class races were held.
Uncle Dick Hetfield's "Elderberry Tavern," near by, catered to the weary traveler, fed the hungry, and regaled the thirsty with an excellent brand of elderberry wine, or whatever else was required.
The Old Homestead Hotel (now the Rutland) was the home of the Arnots in the early days. Mrs. Harriet Tuttle Arnot Rathbone was born in this house. The Homestead for many years drew much of the farmer and horseman trade.
The Buckbee House near by was also favored by the farmer and horseman.
Many years ago, Captain Daniel Dalrymple built a hotel in the town of Southport, calling it the "Bulkhead Hotel." He was a retired sea captain, thus the name for the hotel. It was a popular place for many years, especially favored by the young people.
The old Wilcox Driving Park, and the Park Hotel, which still stands, near the south end of Walnut Street bridge, was a popular place, about the time of the Civil war. Many fine races were held on the old track, and the splendid view, which was enjoyed by patrons from the verandas occupying three sides of the hotel, will be remembered by many of our citizens.
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Some few years ago a movement was started for the erection of a modern and up to the minute hotel. Last year a company was formed called the Wisner Park Corporation for the purpose of erecting a hotel at the corner of Main and Gary Streets, at a cost of about a million dollars, to be known as the Mark Twain Hotel. The site is an ideal one facing beautiful Wisner Park in the center of the city. The hotel was officially opened March 23rd, 1929. The Rathbun and the Langwell Hotels continue to serve the traveling public as they have done for many years, the names of both hotels being synonymous of service.
From all accounts the residents of Elmira and vicinity have always been abundantly supplied with newspapers. Early in October, 1815, the first of these made its appearance. It was the "Telegraph," published by Brindle & Murphy. It consisted of four pages, 12x20 inches in size, with four columns to a page. Such a paper was printed on a press the style now used by small weekly papers for taking proofs.
The Telegraph was published by the Messrs. Hark- ness for about a year and a half, who then sold out to Mr. Erastus Shepard for $900-less by $800 than what they agreed to pay for it, and a hard bargain at that. When Mr. Shepard took charge of the Telegraph he procured a few new type faces, and improved its appearance materially, calling it the Newtown Telegraph.
Immediately upon this arrangement, Murphy purchased a press and type from Simon Kinney, of Towanda, and commenced the Vedette. The Telegraph came out as a Bucktail paper, and the two did not live in perfect amity. The Vedette took its posi- tion, armed and equipped, the war began and it only ceased when the sinews of war were all exhausted, when both, at once, ceased to live and fight. Under the editorial management of James Robinson the Vedette was an efficient advocate of the Chemung canal.
After the discontinuance of the Telegraph and the Vedette, and the removal of their material elsewhere, a press was brought on from Owego, and a paper commenced by Robert Lawrence, and printed by Job A. Smith under the title of the "Investigator."
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In 1824 the name was changed to the Tioga Register, under the exclusive control of Job A. Smith. This in 1828 was changed to the Elmira Gazette, and continued as such until July 1, 1907, when it was merged with the Evening Star and is now known as the Elmira Star-Gazette.
Fairman's Daily Advertiser was established in 1853, the first issue appearing on November 3. It was printed daily and dis- tributed free. In 1854 it was increased to five columns and the name changed to the Elmira Advertiser, and the subscription was $5 a year. At the end of the year it was discontinued and again distributed free. In February of the same year the sub- scription price was again resumed. The Advertiser, on June 23, 1923, became a part of the Star-Gazette family.
There were many attempts at Sunday journalism, but all met with failure until 1879, when Harry S. Brooks, Charles Hazard and James Hill, with but $75 capital between them, established the Sunday Telegram, which was a success from the first, bring- ing fortune to each of them. The Telegram is now the Sunday edition of the Elmira Star-Gazette.
One of the most successful enterprises was that of the Eve- ning Star, which came out as a penny paper, May 24th, 1888. Isaac Seymour Copeland, with James F. Woodford conceived the idea that a penny paper was what the public wanted. It was continued with phenomenal success until July, 1907, when it was merged with the Gazette. Almost fifty newspapers have been started in Elmira, with but a small percentage of success.
At the foot of Conongue Street, now Madison Avenue, was the old "ferry," the only way of crossing the river, before the erection of the first bridge at Lake Street. The movement for a bridge was begun in 1817. The charter was granted April 16, 1823, its erection begun soon afterwards, and in 1824 it was completed. This was practically the first public enterprise for general convenience. The bridge was a wooden toll bridge, which for many years brought revenue. It was afterwards replaced by a wooden covered bridge, which was partially destroyed by fire in 1850. It was repaired, but in the big flood of St. Patrick's day, 1865, the south end was taken down stream.
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The bridge was badly damaged in the 1865 flood, and again in 1866 by fire. In 1865, the Lake Street and Main Street com- panies were consolidated.
By an act of legislature in 1872, the City of Elmira was au- thorized to bond itself in the sum of $120,000 to build two iron bridges, to replace those at Lake and Main streets. In 1905, the Lake Street bridge was replaced by the present one of heavy construction.
On December 26th, 1921, was held the official opening of the present concete structure over the river at Main Street, with much pomp and ceremony, Christmas carols were sung and ad- dresses were made. Music was by Hager's band.
In 1851, to aid in the lumber industry, a wooden covered bridge was erected by the Lumberman's Bridge Co., the stock- holders being influential men of the locality. In 1881 the old structure was destroyed by ice. It was replaced by a suspen- sion bridge built the same year and replaced in 1932 by a con- crete structure.
The story of the building of the Chemung Canal is told in the chapter devoted to canals. The completion of a feeder of this canal to Gibson led to the building of the Tioga and Bloss- burg Railroad leading to the coal mines.
In the early days of settlement, many of the pioneers were men who were or had been Masons in the former homes. Dr. Amos Park, James Cameron, Nathaniel Seeley, Jr., Henry Star- ret, Peter Loop, Jr., Nathan Teall, James Seeley and John Crab- tree petitioned the Grand Lodge for a charter to establish a lodge at Newtown, in the County of Tioga and State of New York. The warrant was granted June 28, 1793, and the first meeting was held August 26, 1793. Meetings continued until the Morgan trouble in 1828, when communications ceased, to be resumed in 1843, since which date the lodge has met without interruption. The original number of Union Lodge was thirty, but after its reorganization in 1843, the present number, ninety- five was given the lodge, the old number having been assigned to another lodge.
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The old minute book of the first lodge, containing all the minutes from the first meeting in 1793 until 1828, is in posses- sion of Union Lodge, No. 95.
The first courthouse was erected in 1794, and the attic was used for a time by Union Lodge for a meeting place. The second courthouse was erected in 1824 near the site of the present county buildings, and was used for a city hall, after its removal to Market Street on the Elks Club location. The present court- house was erected in 1862. The present city hall was built in 1896. The county jail was completed in 1872, and the county clerk's office in 1875.
Daniel McDowell, one of the clerks in the Hollenback trading post, was the son of a Scotchman, John McDowell, and served in the Revolutionary war. He was the great-grandfather of Boyd McDowell, president emeritus of the Chemung County His- torical Society, and was born at Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, No- vember 23, 1763. Mr. McDowell was captured by the Indians in an attack upon Swanee, in 1782, and was taken up through the Susquehanna and Chemung valleys to Fort Niagara where he was forced to run the gauntlet, being the only one of his party to survive the ordeal. Afterward he was held a prisoner at Que- bec until peace came. While passing through the Chemung val- ley as a prisoner he was charmed by the beauty of the scene, and, after the war was over he returned to the valley and settled on what is now known as McDowell's Flats, near the present vil- lage of Chemung. Mr. McDowell was town clerk in 1790, pre- vious to the erection of the county of Tioga, at the time Mont- gomery County, and served again in 1799-1800. His death oc- curred in 1808, and he was buried in Riverside Cemetery, be- tween Lowman and Chemung.
John Shepart was born in Connecticut, April 17, 1765. With his uncle, Capt. Simon Spaulding, he journeyed to Connecticut, after the close of the Revolutionary war, to purchase cattle. After his return, in his eighteenth year, he went up the river with his uncle and remained with him at Sheshequin, until the winter of 1784, when he engaged as clerk for Weiss and Hollenback, in the Indian Country, at Newtown, now Elmira, more than twenty
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miles from any white inhabitants. The following April he pur- chased about $500 worth of the goods of Weiss & Hollenback which he disposed of at Catharine's Town and Canoga, arriving at the latter place on the 29th of April. He traded his goods for furs, which he sent back in exchange for more goods. Later he settled at what is now Waverly, New York.
Thomas Mifflin Perry was born in Philadelphia on Jan- uary 14, 1776, and was in his seventeenth year at the time of his coming into the valley. He was sent up the river from Wilkes- Barre in a Durham boat by Colonel Hollenback, with the first stock of goods ever sent into the valley as far as Newtown. The goods were disposed of by Mr. Perry at the post near Newtown Creek, to the settlers in the neighborhood. He was apprenticed to Matthias Hollenback to "learn the art and mysteries of the mercantile business." When he came to the valley he came to stay, and, in company with Stephen Tuttle, Guy Maxwell and others, was engaged in many enterprises.
Guy Maxwell has an interesting history. He was born in Ireland, July 15, 1770. His parents had left a port in Scotland for America in June, 1770; were ship-wrecked in the British chan- nel, and thrown on the shores of County Down, where Guy was born soon afterward. The family, in 1772, made another attempt to cross the ocean, and reached Annapolis in a sailing vessel after weeks of travel. They settled at Martinsburgh, Virginia, near the Potomac. When Guy was old enough, he entered the store of Col. James O'Hara, and, according to articles of agreement, the boy was released on his eighteenth birthday. Col. Hollenbach met the young man, and was much impressed with his business in- stinct. He placed him in charge of the post at Tioga Point where he remained until 1796, when he came to Newtown to be a mer- chant, and to superintend the sale of lots he had purchased. He married Nellie Wynkoop.
The Maxwells occupied a prominent place in the community. William and Thomas, sons of Guy, were lawyers of ability, Wil- liam becoming district attorney, and was also a member of As- sembly. Thomas was county clerk for some years and was also elected to Congress. Harriet Maxwell Converse, was a daughter
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of Thomas Maxwell. She, as well as her father, and her grand- father, was an adopted member of the Six Nations. Mrs. Con- verse was the only white woman to become a chief.
Dr. Joseph Hinchman came from a family of physicians. He was born at Jamaica on Long Island, on the 28th day of August, 1762. He came to the valley in 1788, settling on the Lowman farm in the town of Chemung, where he remained until 1793, when he came to Newtown, having a considerable practice here. Dr. Hinchman served as sheriff of Tioga County from 1795 until 1799. He died in 1802 and was the first to be buried in the Bap- tist burying ground.
Dr. Amos Park came from Orange County in 1793, and erected the first frame house in Newtown on the bank of the river near what is now High Street. He was as much engaged in preaching the Gospel as in the practice of medicine. He was the first physi- cian as well as the first preacher in Newtown, preaching to the people in the old courthouse.
Among the other early physicians were Dr. Uriah Smith, a son of Timothy Smith of Southport, who was much esteemed; Dr. Jotham Purdy, who was born in Westchester County in 1779, his father moving to Spencer, when Jotham was five years old. About 1823 he came to Elmira, as a physician and surgeon, and enjoyed a splendid practice; Dr. Theseus Brooks came to Big Flats in 1821, removing to Elmira in 1835, becoming a successful physician.
Col. John Hendy was born at Wyoming, Pennsylvania, Sep- tember 3, 1757, and was about thirty-one years of age when he settled at Newtown. He joined the Revolutionary Army and served at Trenton, Princeton, Bunker Hill, Monmouth and other important places, under General Washington. Colonel Hendy purchased an 800 acre plot of land, upon which he resided until the time of his death in 1840. Colonel Hendy took an active part in the building of the Chemung Canal. He threw up the first shovelful of earth at the commencement of its excavation. He was also active in raising companies for the war of 1812. The companies, however, were not needed and were disbanded. At his death, March, 1840, he was buried in the Baptist Cemetery.
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At the opening of Woodlawn Cemetery his body was taken up and placed in there, where the citizens erected a monument over his remains. Rev. Dr. Murdoch delivered the address on the occasion. The final burial took place with Masonic and military honors, and attracted a large throng of people.
The earliest clergyman to make a residence here was Rev. Jabez Culver, who settled down Maple Avenue. He, however, did not preach much. Rev. Roswell Goff came here in 1789 and or- ganized the old Chemung Baptist Church, and was its pastor for many years. Rev. Daniel Thatcher was a missionary of the Gen- eral Board of Missions, and came to Elmira then Newtown, in 1795, and established the Presbyterian Church.
It was not until 1814 that the First Methodist Church was organized. The Baptist Church organization of Elmira was or- ganized in 1829, with Rev. Philander D. Gillette as pastor. The Episcopal services were first held by Rev. John G. Carder and the first meetings held in 1833. Trinity Church was organized March 31, 1834, and the first church building was erected at the corner of West Church Street and Railroad Avenue in 1837. The Roman Catholic Church was organized in Elmira in about 1842.
Through the efforts of Rev. Father Sheridan the organization was formed and a place of worship secured at the corner of Mar- ket and High streets, until the present brick structure was erected, for SS. Peter and Paul's Society.
Lake Street Presbyterian Church was formed by members withdrawing from the First Presbyterian Church in 1860, and was first known as the Second Presbyterian Church Society. Other branches of the Presbyterian Church are the Franklin Street and the North Presbyterian churches. Grace Church branched from Triritv in 1864. St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Church was built in 1871. Rev. J. J. Bloomer has been the pastor since 1870. St. Mary's Church in Southport was built in 1874.
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