History of Ontario Co., New York, Part 41

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HISTORY OF ONTARIO COUNTY, NEW YORK.


halting to rest before striking off along roads cut as they went to their township and lot, and guests of rank, prominence, and royalty.


The first store was opened by Samuel Gardner in a log building, and was of the pioneer order in regard to stock and trade. Thaddeus Chapin was the next to engage in merchandising, while the house owned by the heirs of Albert Daniels, and now occupied by E. M. Morse, Esq., was the first general assortment store in Canandaigua, and was conducted by the firm of Norton & Richards, whose supply of goods was brought from Albany by ox-teams. The time occupied in going and returning was three weeks. Isaac Davis was an early merchant at Canan- daigua, as was Thomas Beals, who, engaging in the mercantile business in 1803, extended his trade widely, and won esteem as an honest, fair dealer. Luther Cole was an early and enterprising storekeeper. In winter he went with a sleigh to Whitesboro' and sold goods there, purchased in Canandaigua, and later became the proprietor of a large crockery store in the house owned by the late Albert Daniels, on Main street. The Gorham House, on the corner of Main and Gorham streets, was built as a store and dwelling combined, the north half being occupied by Un- derhill & Seymour for a number of years. While the store was the resort of the settler for supplies, the tavern was an essential to prospective settlement. Mr. San- born built, prior to 1800, on the lot known as the Sibley place, now owned by a Mr. Wilcox. Dudley's tavern stood on Main street, near the lake, while Dotey kept in the framed house opposite the foundry and the old barracks. The high grade of the two houses just south of the foundry is caused by the old earth wall of the barrack inclosure. The tavern of Freeman Atwater, where meetings were appointed and held, was a noted inn of those days, and stood upon the site of the present Ontario House. Church's tavern was upon Main street, and existed before 1800. Phineas Bates, of Durham, Connecticut, was out in this country with Wilder in 1789. He walked to Connecticut in the fall, and in the spring of 1790 came out with Stephen, his son,. Orange Brace, a son in-law, and others, having a sled and yoke of oxen, provision and household goods. At Onondaga Mr. Bates bought a half-bushel of potatoes, brought them to this village and planted them in a village lot he had purchased. During this summer he cleared ground, and in fall sowed to wheat. Another weary walk to Connecticut, and a return in February, 1791, by sleigh, and his thus became the seventh family settled in the village. He opened a tavern where Perry's Nurseries now are, and became a prominent as he was a worthy citizen. He died in 1829. His son, Phineas P. Bates, succeeded his father as a landlord in Canandaigua, and served a number of terms as deputy sheriff and as sheriff of Ontario. Members of the family became known in positions of trust here and elsewhere. Stephen was a farmer in the town of Gorham, served as sheriff, member of Assembly, and senator, and others have been favorably circumstanced, and their history is full of interest.


In 1790 occurred the death of Caleb Walker, who was attended by Dr. Adams, of Geneva. The sickness which quickly attacked the pioneers on their arrival produced a gloomy, anxious feeling, and the arrival at the village during 1791 of Dr. Moses Atwater was a source of much gratification to its few families. The doctor had an extensive practice, and was of incalculable service to the commu- nity. He was an early judge of Ontario, and died in 1848, aged eighty-two years. A second early physician was his brother, Jeremiah Atwater, who lived to an advanced age. Samuel Dungan, a student with Dr. Wistar, settled in Ca- nandaigus in 1797. His skill as a surgeon was more than common, and extended his fame throughout the settlements. Dr. William A. Williams, of Connecticut, a graduate of Yale College at the age of sixteen years, came into the village in 1793, and entered upon a long and highly successful practice. It was said of him by a man who knew him well, "In day or night time, in sunshine or in storm, whether his patients were rich or poor, he was the same indefatigable, faithful physician and good neighbor." The home of Dr. Williams was on the lot now'owned by John Rankin, Esq. William Antis was the early gunsmith, and was employed by Indian and white sportsmen in the repair of rifles. His son William succeeded him, and continued the business till his death, in 1843. Abijah Peters was the first tailor in the place. He came in from Naples, where he had moved in 1796 with his family; left them there; came here, and rented a room in the tavern of Captain Dudley, where he remained for a year. It is said that he shot a bear from his shop window. James D. Fish, the first town clerk, and Joseph Smith kept store in 1797 in a small frame building attached to a log house once occupied by M. J. Lyon. The first school was taught in 1792, by Major Wallis, and dancing and military schools were established soon after, and well patronized. The first framed house was built by Oliver Phelps, and the second, filled in with brick and completed in 1793, was the residence of Thomas Morris, spoken of in county history. The deaths, in 1793, of a Mr. Miles, from what is now Lima, and of a citizen of Canada, in the streets of the village while on their way east, are thus noted: "They were riding into the village, and had reached within a few rods of Main street, when a tree, turned out by the roots, fell upon the travelers, killing them both, and one of the horses. The affair was


singular from the fact that it was raining moderately at the time, and there was no wind." A court-house was erected in front of the Ontario House in 1794 by Elijah Murray. A clerk's office was also built, and soon thereafter the operations of the courts were carried on in this structure. The first jail was a log house, standing just in front of what is now Torry's coal-yard.


CANANDAIGUA IN 1795


is thus described by Duke Liancourt, then on a tour through the country : "The houses, although built of wood, are much better than any of that description I have hitherto seen. They consist mostly of joiner's work, and are prettily painted. In front of some of them are small courts, surrounded with neat railings. There are two inns in the town, and several shops, where commodities are sold, and shoes and other articles made." The character and respectability of the families locating and settled in the place made it a desirable resort for those seeking a pleasant home and good society. Tea-parties were in vogue, and an assembly of this character held at Sanborn's tavern in 1794 is all the more distinguished by the serving at tea of the first currants grown in the place. In 1794, Main street was a long opening cut through the woods. Most of the trees had been cut down; some girdled were left standing, and down the avenue were seen the numerous stumps. Nathaniel Sanborn lived upon the lot of Lucius Wilcox. Ab- ner Barlow had a house on ground now owned by the Presbyterian church, and Moses Atwater had a story-and-a-half framed house upon the site of Atwater Hall. Phineas Bates had a house and clearing on the lot of Mr. Perry, opposite the Granger homestead. The lot where Brockelbank lived contained upon it a house, as did the land now owned by the heirs of William Jeudevine. The In- dian trail from Buffalo entered Main street through an open grove of white-oaks, near the house of Walter S. Hubbell, nearly opposite the west end of Howell street. Down this trail came the Senecas to the treaty to be held on the square, and a wild and savage scene was that of Canandaigua in 1794.


But this was not to continue. The village was the capital of a wide expanse of country; hither came the fur-trader, the land-speculator, and here gathered the families to rest before pushing on to their homes on Ganargo, Honeoye, and the Genesee. The demands of trade found many eager to supply, and no interest was neglected. Preparations for educational facilities were made on the 28th of January, 1791, by the conveyance, on the part of Phelps and Gorham, of six thousand acres of land in the county of Ontario, "to establish and support an academy or seminary of learning." Februray 12, 1795, the Canandaigua Academy was incorporated, and entered upon its noble work, sending from its halls many of the ablest and best in the land. The first church organisation was of St. Mat- thew's, established in February, 1799. The meeting was held at Sanborn's house. The Rev. Philander Chase, then in descon's orders, officiated for several years as rector. The first Congregational church was organized contemporary with the Episcopal, with Rev. Timothy Field pastor. The Methodists were a few years later, and built on Chapel street, whence the present name of the district. In 1803 two newspapers were published in Canandaigua, and their jottings are val- uable aids to memory. The one was edited by Lucius Carey, who, at this date, was succeeded by James K. Gould and Russel E. Post, and bore the name of Western Repository. The other was established by Sylvester Tiffany as the Ontario Freeman. Both of long-continued usefulness and prosperity, and the former the oldest existing paper published in western New York.


CANANDAIGUA OF. OLDEN TIMES.


There was life and activity, hope and expectancy, on the part of the Canandai- gua of the past. There were scenes strange for the later villages to look upon. Two long rows of log houses, at wide intervals, fronted on Main street. The taverns were crowded and accommodations limited. A dosen persons lodged in a single room. The stores found little else than the barter for produce, and un- fortunate debtors boarded themselves in the old jail.


In connection with this barbarous system of penalty by imprisonment for un- fortunate indebtedness was the bane of our republic,-the system of slavery. Few were the number of slaves, but, as will be seen hereafter, sufficient to develop evil influences.


From John Crane, born upon the lot now owned by M. Owen, on August 30, 1792, is gained the following of the early village residents' homes and business. Commencing at the lake, on the east side of Main street, the first house was that of Major Hooker, colored; next to him, near the old elm, dwelt L. Younglove, . shoemaker, and his neighbor was Timothy Younglove, following the business of manufacturing hats. Then came the log house of Elan Crane, and beyond him lived Jasper Parrish, a man accustomed to the border, and useful in dealings with the Indians. The tavern stand of Benjamin Wells was next, at the intersection


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of Phelps with Main street, and his rival for patronage, Cap. Dudley, occupied the property more recently owned by Mrs. Foster. The house beyond was built by Saltonstall, and next on the corner stood the log-built blacksmith-shop of Nichols. The log tavern of Captain Pratt intervened between Nichols and a rival blacksmith-shop wherein worked Moseby, who also built a house upon the site of the Phoenix block. The residence of Oliver Phelps, Sr., came next, and was as durable as it was then regarded handsome. The career of Mr. Phelps has been outlined; often a building characterises the man as it develops, and carries about it a semblance of its owner. Where stands the Ontario House, Freeman Atwater had his residence and carried on a tin-shop. The present church of the Presby- terians stands upon the site of Abner Barlow's home, and Dr. Duncan's dwelling was near the double brown house of Theodore Hart. Next north of the doctor dwelt Robert Spencer, a shoemaker, and then the place of Judge N. W. Howell. The lot owned by John Rankin, Esq., was the property of Dr. William Williams, and William Kibbe lived north of the academy. North of McKechnie's Corners lived Samuel Brockelbank and his brother, and beyond were the native woods. Returning southward, on the west side of Main street, stood the residence of General Taylor, which was afterwards owned by William Blossom. Next south was the stand of Phineas Bates, and beyond him was the residence of Augustus Porter, near the present mansion of Mrs. Greig, one of the most elegant in the village. The next building was the residence of Peter B. Porter,-a part of the original house is the present property of E. G. Lapham. Next were two houses and the land office of Zachariah Seymour, and adjacent was the residence of At- torney Burt. The present property of Walter S. Hubbell, Esq., was then owned by Esquire Penfield, who had upon it a residence and office. Next was Sanborn's well-known place, where Lucius Wilcox now resides. Thomas Morris lived in the house elsewhere noted, and the present property of Hon. Henry W. Taylor. At Atwater Hall, the lawyer's block of Canandaigua, lived Moses Atwater, and Thaddeus Chapin, Sr., had a dwelling on the site of the Hubbell block. Israel Chapin resided near the junction of Coy with Main street. Green's store stood on the corner, upon the site of Paul's drug-store; he had built a house where now stands the Hale block. Upon the storing lot of P. H. Rose stood the house of John Clark, surrounded at the period of its construction by the heavy growth of the original forest. A small house stood near Robinson's foundry, and there lived and labored Derrick Spoor at his trade of shoemaker. John Reed erected a small house where, in 1819, Jasper Parrish built the large frame now owned by Murrey. On the lot of Thomas Moran a log house had been built by Caleb Clark. and south of him James D. Fish had a log cabin on the lot formerly owned by Thomas J. Lyon, and more recently by Mr. Ball. Old William Antis first settled on Bristol street, where John Andrews resides. The vicinity was then a black-ash swamp, and the street was known as Antis' lane, that of Antis being the only house on the lane. John Clark built the first tannery, where Jeese Mason lives. Clark came in with Mr. Phelps. His trade was that of tanner and currier, and the first leather he manufactured in the Genesee country was from the hides of cattle brought on to supply beef for the Indians assembled to hold the treaty. His vats were an illustration of science contending with difficulty, and were made by sawing off sections of hollow trees. This was the beginning of a business in shoes and leather which made him well known through a wide circuit. The dis- tillery of this locality stood east.of the present jail, and was the property of Mr. Green. Nearly opposite Mason's was a small frame house, erected as a headquar- ters for the Indians on their semi-annual meetings to receive presents and annui- ties, and here they held their dances and pow-wows. The growth of Canandaigua is indicated by her population. The census of 1790 gave 106, and in 1810 it had increased to 1153.


A State arsenal was built on land donated by Moses Atwater in 1808, and a thousand stand of arms ordered to be stored in it. The war of 1812 found the people alert, and when the express-rider galloped through her street scattering the hand-bills announcing war, the citizens were aroused, and all classes prepared for action. Troops were quartered in the village, other troops marched through, and hither came the militis from the eastern counties of Seneca and Cayuga when the tidings of Buffalo's disaster spread abroad. When a destitute population driven from their homes appealed for aid, the citizens were prompt in their response in sympathy and means.


CANANDAIGUA IN 1810.


Spafford, in his " Gazetteer of New York," published in 1813, says of the village: " Canandaigua is finely situated in the east part of the town, near the outlet of Canandaigua lake, and on the gentle ascent from the lake, of which it commands a fine view, at the distance of a half-mile. There are one hundred and thirty-seven houses and stores, the county buildings, an arsenal belonging to the State, and a large three-story academy, besides many other buildings, with several very elegant private mansions. The principal street is nearly two miles


in length, in which are almost all the above buildings. The court-house, and a fireproof office for the clerk of the court, are finely situated on an open square in the centre of the village. There are two weekly gazettes issued here, and the village is well supplied with mechanics and artisans. The academy was founded by the liberal donations of Meesrs. Phelps and Gorham, and is now very flourish- ing. Canandaigua has a great amount of business, and promises to become the metropolis of the western counties. It is situated in north latitude 42º 48' 41," and 3º 20' west longitude from New York. Distant from Albany, two hundred and eight miles; from Utica, one hundred and eleven; from Buffalo, eighty- eight; Niagara Falls, one hundred and eight; Sodus bay, on Lake Ontario, thirty-five; from Philadelphia, three hundred; and from Washington City, three hundred and ninety-five." Elkanah Watson said of Canandaigua, in 1818, " It is a considerable village, having splendid residences, occupied by a wealthy and genteel population." Here resides Gideon Granger, late postmaster-general, eminent for lofty and diversified intellectual endowments. Hotel accommodations were bad, the house was crowded, and Watson slept in the third story, on the fioor, upon a buffalo-robe. Time has changed all this. The crudities and ex- pedients with facilities have evolved harmony and comfort, thongh not perfec- tion. The village has steadily grown and prospered. Her taverns, ber hotels, her stage-lines, and her railways, her academy, seminary, and public schools, her asylums for the orphan and for the insane, her banks, her press, and her churches, her band, and her fire department, her library, civic associations, public build- ings and manufactures, her beautiful location, and her intelligent population, are all themes of interest worthy of record. In Canandaigna the apprentice learned his trade, whether gunsmith with William Antis, tanner with Clark, or printer with Bemis. To the village came the farmer with his produce, the speculator in search of a field of operation, and here were brought for trial the Universal Friend, Jemima Wilkinson, in 1796; William Morgan, the apostate Mason, in 1826; and Susan B. Anthony in 1872,-the last convicted of having voted at Rochester, and sentenced to pay a fine. In the war of 1812 Canandaigua was a depot of supplies; here were established barracks and recruiting offices, and her citizens were notably active in patriotic expression and provision of means for the panic-stricken refugees from the British Indians.


Without conflict or dissent, the various interests of the community early established have continued, with changing agents in men, buildings, and facilities, down to the present. Within a few years Canandaigua had within her limits all the organizations whose development presents us with the village of to-day. No one trade, project, or society took the lead. Taverns gave way to hotels more capa- cious and more costly. Business retiring from the north clung tenaciously to the upper end of Lower Main street, and all the various stores, shops, and saloons changed owners at intervals without attracting notice. Now and then a fire broke out, raged with virulence, and swept out of existence some of the best buildings and many of the inferior class; then the enterprise of a MeKechnie, a Gates, a Beals, or a Howell, erected business blocks, hotels, or other desired buildings. The incipient steps having been taken, and the elements of the place existing, a brief tracing of chief industries will suffice for the further history of the old and quiet capital of Ontario.


TAVERNS AND HOTELS.


County and town history have shown a constant resort to expediency and a readiness to profit from an original necessity. Visitors, travelers, and prospective settlers constantly arriving made places of public entertainment necessary. Pri- marily little accommodation was received, and Watson would have chosen more than once the open air, while the Duke could not forget his experience at Naples; but eventually special buildings, spacious and elegant, with experienced proprie- tors, changed the name of tavern to the more pretentious one of hotel.


A record of the principal and permanent taverns and hotels begins with the Dudley Tavern. Sanborn had, as noted, been a tavern-keeper where Atwater Hall now stands; but, in 1796, Captain Dudley had become proprietor of a tavern which was situated on the lot now owned by Mrs. Foster, on the east side of Main street. Here was held the tea-party ; the bear pot-pie was enjoyed ; and in the old ball-room Mr. Adjutant called off " Money Musk" and other olden dances. In 1803, Taylor had become the landlord, and Taylor's hotel was the principal one in the village and was widely and favorably known as the hotel of Canandaigua. In 1813, Reuben Lamberton was the landlord.


Freeman Atwater kept a noted tavern in the early .; day here were held public meetings, and its proprietor was a leading citisen. The same building, just north of the Canandaigua Hotel, is now known as the Ontario House.


Blossom's hotel was built and furnished by Belah D. Coe, in 1815. It was kept first by Elisha Mills for two or three years, who resigned the house to Mr. Coe, who was more successful. Coe was succeeded by Amos Mead, who kept the house until 1824, when it passed into the hands of Colonel William Blossom,


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who informed the citizens through the press " that he would be 'at home' on Monday, December 13, 1824, at eleven A.M., when he would be happy to see his friends," and invited them to " partake of a collation provided for the occasion." As souvenirs of the esteemed landlord and of the well-known house, we copy from an old newspaper the advertisement announcing the opening of the Canandaigua Hotel :


" William Blossom respectfully informs his friends and the public that he has taken the well-established 'hotel' lately purchased, repaired, and enlarged by Isaac Collins, of New York, and formerly kept by Amos Mead; and having kept large establishments in the cities of New York and New Haven, flatters himself that his exertions may result in general satisfaction to such as may patronize his house."


Notice was given June 20, 1825, that he had received from New York, via " Grand canal" and Palmyra, two fine. green turtles, which he proposed to serve up to the citizens of Canandaigua.


After keeping the house for eighteen years, Colonel Blossom announced that his lease would expire August 1, 1842, and a sale of all personal property would be made. Among articles named was a " bell" on top of the hotel, which he said was claimed by some persons as having "regulated most of the domestic affairs of the village." Colonel Blossom was a man of fine personal appearance, and his suavity of manners early established his reputation as a landlord, not excelled be- tween Albany and Buffalo. William H. Blossom, nephew to the colonel, became proprietor of the hotel March 10, 1845. Charges were one dollar per day, and two shillings per meal.


The Board of Excise of Canandaigua licensed Blossom's hotel, the Franklin House, and Church's tavern, and refused licenses to the Northern Retreat and Lake Tavern, during the spring of 1845.


The old Canandaigua Hotel was famous as a stage-house, and crowds gathered to observe the arrival of the four-horse stages, whose weary teams were invariably aroused to a spirt as they wheeled into position before the door. Ambrose Worth- ington succeeded W. H. Blossom in the hotel, which was burned on the 23d of De- cember, 1851. The present Canandaigua Hotel is a fine building, and an ornament to the town, erected upon the site of the previous house.


In February, 1852, a company of gentlemen, consisting of John Greig, Francis Granger, Henry B. Gibson, John A. Granger, Mark H. Sibley, Leander M. Drury, and Gideon Granger, entered into an arrangement with Thomas Beals and John Benham, the owners of the land, to erect a new hotel. These latter gentlemen put in the land at seven thousand dollars, and the former subscribed the sum of twenty thousand dollars. This fulling far short of the amount found necessary, they increased their subscriptions to forty-eight thousand dollars, making the cost of the building and grounds fifty-five thousand dollars. A further subscription of fifteen thousand dollars was made by John Greig, H. B. Gibson, and Francis Granger, for furniture; and, in the summer of 1853, the hotel was opened by John Thomas, an experienced landlord. Successive landlords have been : Thomas F. Spencer, successor to Thomas ; then Messrs. Reeves and Cleveland; Reeves retired, and Cleveland was later succeeded by A. Worthington. Gunn Brothers, L. B. and W. P., were twice in charge, and in the interval George Ewins and John A. Sherman were landlords.




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