USA > New York > Steuben County > Bath > The official records of the centennial celebration, Bath, Steuben County, New York, June 4, 6, and 7, 1893 > Part 14
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Messrs. Phelps and Gorham sold a large part of their purchase to Rob- ert Morris, the financier of the Revolution, by whom it was conveyed to Sir William Pulteney, and others, of England. The Phelps and Gorham purchase extended about forty-five miles from east to west, and eighty- four from north to south, and contained about 2,200,000 acres. In the year 1790, the New York Legislature formed a county, named Ontario, from all that part of the State lying west of a meridian line drawn from the 82d milestone on the Pennsylvania line to Lake Ontario. The whole of this territory was then called the "Genesee Country" which name, in the Indian language, signified a pleasant valley.
The purchase made by Sir William Pulteney, and the commencement of operations under the direction of his agent, Captain Charles William- son, were the beginning of wonderful changes in the Genesee country. Williamson made his first journey to the southern part of the territory in the summer and fall of 1792. He came through the forest from Northum- berland ; thence thirty-eight miles to the place where Williamsport now stands ; thence twelve miles to Trout Run ; then crossing the Laurel Ridge mountains to what is called the Block House ; then passing on to points where are now located the villages of Blossburg, Canoe Camp, Tioga, Law- renceville and Painted Post, and thence eighteen miles towards the head- waters of the Conhocton, where he selected the site for his city in the forest, and here, named in honor of his patron's only daughter, he planted the town of Bath, in the center of a wilderness of 900,000 acres.
It may be of interest to the antiquarian to note here that Henrietta Laura Pulteney was created Baroness Bath, County of Somerset, July 26, 1792, and Countess of Bath, October 26, 1803. She married Sir James Murray, who assumed the name of Pulteney, and she died without issue, August 14, 1808, when her titles became extinct.
Captain Williamson's plan for his new settlement was comprehensive and far-reaching. He well knew the advantages of concentration, and believed that if he at once laid the foundations of a town and could bring a small number of operators to the ground, he would soon have something visible to attract a larger emigration. The advantages of concentration
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were shown by some of the French settlements in Canada, on the St. Law- rence, where farms were laid out with narrow river fronts, and the houses built within a short distance of each other. Captain Williamson, in his letters, urges the advantages to be secured, in the settlement of all new countries, by having the farms so located that the dwellings would not be far separated ; but in many instances this method was not followed, or was found impracticable under the existing conditions, so that in numerous cases settlers would commence their clearings and erect their log houses miles away from their nearest neighbors.
The first necessity of the infant metropolis was a saw-mill ; and we are told that one was finished early in the season of 1793, and before winter a grist-mill and another saw-mill, nearer the town, were nearly ready for use. Several other settlements were begun this year, the principal of which were Sodus, Honeoye Lake, Canaseraga and Pleasant Valley, and roads were opened in many directions.
The County of Ontario was now divided, the northern part retaining the old title, and the part set off was called Steuben, after the Baron of that name.
Captain Williamson, in the effort to induce emigration to the country, published several enthusiastic letters, from which I will now make a few extracts, giving his description of the many attractions offered by the new settlements a few years after the founding of Bath. He says : "The rapid progress of this new country in every comfort and convenience has not only caused the emigration of vast numbers of substantial farmers, but also men of liberal education, who find here a society not inferior to that in the oldest country settlements in America. The schools are far from being indifferent, and even the foundations for public libraries are already laid. The gentleman fond of a rural life, or the amusements of the field, may here gratify himself ; he may find a situation for a country- seat that will please the most romantic fancy ; the excellence of the cli- mate and soil will afford him every certainty for a great return for his trouble and expense as a farmer, and with little care his garden may equal any gentleman's in England. Indeed, with the advantages of soil and climate, the great variety of situations can only be equaled in the finest parts of England.
"You will find that the climate of the Genesee country not only forms a very interesting part of its advantages, but also of its natural history ; those parching heats that on the south side of the Allegany mountains seem to dry up every particle of nourishment from the plants, are never known in this country ; in almost every instance a hot day is succeeded by a plentiful shower, which preserves throughout the summer a constant verdure, and affords to us the finest pastures and meadows on the conti- nent ; the nights are proportionally cool, and a traveler from the sea-coast
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is surprised to find, in the dog-days, a couple of blankets a comfortable covering. The frosts have never been so severe as to stop the operation of the mills, provided very trifling precaution is used. So remarkable was this circumstance in 1797, that a number of sleds came from Pennsylvania to the Bath mills, a distance of seventy miles. All this is owing to the relative situation of the Genesee country. It is bounded on the north and west by great bodies of water which do not freeze, and in this direction there is not one mountain. The northerly and westerly winds which scourge the coast of America by blowing over the Allegany mountains, covered with snow late in the spring and early in the fall, are tem- pered by passing over these waters; and these mountains to the south of us do, at the same time, prevent the destructive effects of the southerly breeze in winter, which by suddenly thawing the frozen wheat fields would destroy thousands of bushels. While the Lakes and the Allegany moun- tains are in existence, so long will the inhabitants of the Genesee country be blessed with their pleasant, temperate climate. The town of Bath has this season increased considerably, and much improvement has been made on the different roads leading to it. The opening a market to Baltimore for our lumber and fat cattle has also raised a spirit amongst the inhabi- tants to improve the navigation of the Conhocton. A handsome Court House, and a very secure and convenient gaol are added to the number of our buildings, and the inhabitants have recently encouraged a clergyman to settle amongst them."
He also states that in that year, 1798, the printer of the Bath Gazette " dispenses weekly not less that five hundred papers." It may be interest- ing to us to examine briefly the contrasting conditions of life as shown here one hundred years ago, and as we see it around us to-day. It is a well- known fact that the occupations and daily experiences of men have exert- ed great power in moulding and stamping their characters, and that the influence of natural surroundings has been by no means an insignificant factor in shaping the destinies of nations. The mountains and hills, the desert and the ocean, are cited in numerous instances in the Sacred Scrip- tures as showing their wonderful power over the minds of men, and we may readily trace the development of character in the pioneers of this country, as influenced by their conditions and surroundings.
And first, their experience, filled as it was with new and peculiar obstacles, hopes and fears, tended to produce an alert and resourceful char- acter. We are apt to forget that the life was often one of continual anxieties, and, even here, not the least of them was the possibility of an Indian outbreak. When General St. Clair was defeated by the Indians, in the year 1791, it is said that many of the Genesees were in that battle fighting against our forces, and that the fact was well known that some of them were in the battle of the next year, when they were defeated by
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Wayne. Although, after this defeat of the Indians on the Miami by Gen- eral Wayne, in the summer of 1792, it was not generally supposed that there was much danger of another outbreak, yet the savages came to this country in great numbers for the purpose of hunting and making sugar, and so little confidence was felt concerning them as to keep the settlers con- tinually on their guard. I have been told by an old resident that as late as 1796 or 1798 some of the settlers left the county on account of their fears of another Indian war.
These apprehensions, together with the feeling of isolation, the heavy labor of clearing away the forest and subduing the soil, and the conflict with obstacles unknown at the present day, tended to form a character differing in many interesting traits from that of any other people. It is not surprising that one prominent characteristic of the pioneer was self- confidence, and that he was brave, hardy and enterprising.
It has been held by students of moral philosophy that as the refine- ments and luxuries of society increase, there is a corresponding diminution in active sympathy between man and man, and in the personal services rendered by each to the other. However this may be, it is certain that in the primitive condition of the pioneers there was an unwritten law that men were bound to help each other ; and their raising bees, logging bees and chopping bees gave evidence of their hearty willingness to assist their neighbors without money or price.
Nor did these gatherings fail to exercise a considerable influence on their lives and characters. They were important means of maintaining social intercourse and exchange of ideas, while to men whose lives were for the most part solitary and uneventful, these musters of the widely- scattered settlers inspired a feeling of strength and confidence. But while his virtues are fully recognized, the pioneer is sometimes criticised for not attending as carefully as he ought to matters of religion, and particularly in paying too little attention to the observance of the Sabbath day. But it must not be forgotten, in a broad view of the question, that if his peculiar virtues were fostered, so were his shortcomings nurtured by his environment. He was often compelled to be a law unto himself ; there was no public opinion to influence him and the forest, like Crusoe's island, gave no sound of the " church-going bell."
Strictly speaking, the pioneer life within the boundaries of the village itself was of short duration ; for although much of the surrounding coun- try remained for a long time in forest, and more than forty years after the first settlement the wolves would occasionally be heard of an evening, howling among the classic shades of Mossy Bank, yet from the first clear- ing away of the timber from Pulteney Square, Morris, Liberty and Steu- ben streets, the appearance of Bath, we are led to believe, was very dif- ferent from that of the ordinary frontier settlement. The plan from the
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first was to provide for the growth of an important city ; and although the failure of the Conhocton's water supply, the building of the Erie canal, and the invention of the steam locomotive seriously interfered to destroy commercial relations with Baltimore, and the dream of Williamson has never been fully realized, yet there has always been much to stimulate the pride of the dwellers in this beautiful town, and I believe that all of them have ever felt a peculiar interest in its character and associations that time and distance have never effaced.
The trades and professions were well represented at an early day, and the first newspaper in Western New York, the Bath Gazette, already re- ferred to, was established under the auspices of Captain Williamson, in 1796. During the next thirty years or more, many enterprises flourished that have since become extinct. Pure medicinal whiskey was distilled from the native corn ; John McCalla, the hatter, on Morris street, manu- factured the genuine old-time regulation beavers ; a few years later books were printed and published at the old Bath bookstore, the press work by George Richardson, and the binding in good, honest sheepskin by James McBeath.
But to reach the Baltimore market by means of the turbulent waters of the Conhocton was the absorbing question for many years. The most romantic episode during the period of maritime prosperity was the wonder- ful voyage of Deacon Hopkins. He loaded a raft with lumber, and one fine morning, in the spring of 1798, he bade farewell to his friends and stepped on board. The steering oars at bow and stern was manned, the hawser was cast loose, and the ponderous craft swept out on the broad bosom of the Conhocton at high flood. The difficult preliminary naviga- tion of Campbell's Hole and Hunter's Bottom were safely passed and, after perils by rock and shoal in the foaming Chemung and the mighty Susque- hanna, the long voyage to tide-water was accomplished.
But disappointment awaited the Deacon on his arrival at Baltimore, for he found that there had been a great decline in the value of his cargo. He was told, however, that lumber was in great demand in the island of Cuba, and he forthwith chartered a schooner, to which he transferred his freight and sailed for Havana. On this voyage he was overtaked by a hur- ricane, and was compelled, amid much grief and tribulation, to throw overboard a large part of his cargo. At length, on his safe arrival at the islands. he found that the hurricane had so befriended him in blowing down nearly all the houses that his remaining stock of lumber sold for more than he had expected for the whole, and he found himself realizing a handsome profit. But he was not satisfied with this result. He sailed for Rio Janeiro, where he purchased a load of mules, and returned with his cargo to Havana ; but another decline in prices rendered this operation a failure, and after closing up his books he voyaged back to Baltimore, and
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from thence traveled by horseback to Bath, returning, after his long absence, square with the world but rich in experience.
Among the names of those living in the early times, whose strong individuality and exceptional characteristics have been impressed upon the society of their day, and who have lived in tradition for generations after, may be mentioned that of Madam Susan Thornton. Many of us remem- ber her in her old age, when she resided on East Morris street, and an old gentleman once related to me his impressions of her appearance, some years after her marriage with Captain Helm, one morning when he saw her walking across Pulteney Square from the Agency House to that of her husband. Their residence then stood on the corner, afterwards occupied by the Clinton House, and now by the Bank of Bath. He described her stately and graceful carriage, the brightness of her eyes and her hand- some, attractive face. She was prominent in that period of festivity and lavish hospitality, when the old customs of Virginia were transplanted to the banks of the Conhocton, and many interesting events occurred in the life of this lady, to whom was always given the title of " Madam."
I have no record of the schools of Bath previous to the year 1813. In that year the village school was taught by Mr. William Woods ; in 1815, by Mr. Welles, afterwards Judge of the Supreme Court, residing at Penn Yan ; in 1817, by Mr. S. Hull, a nephew of Mrs. Townsend ; in 1820, by Mr. George Huntington ; in 1822, by Mr. Plumley. In a Farmers' Advo- cate of December 14, 1831, appears the following advertisement by Mr. Eli Eddy :
" BATH SELECT SCHOOL .- Subscribers to this school are hereby notified that the winter term has just commenced under arrangements highly favorable to the improvement of the scholars. The school is furnished with Holbrook's apparatus and various other articles for illustrating the subjects of education ; besides globes, maps and drawings on subjects of natural history. Patrons of the school are respectfully invited to call every Wednesday P. M. to witness the performances of the scholars in read- ing, speaking and writing lessons in their respective studies."
The opening of Haverling Union School, in the year 1847, was con- sidered a very important event. It has ever since been the pride of the people of Bath, and for many years has ranked among the first schools in the State. As a monument beside which the sculptured marble appears insignificant, it will carry down through the ceaseless round of years the name of Adam Haverling. His most devoted occupation during the latter part of his life was the promotion of its success, and he left behind him a liberal provision for the continuance of his bounty. His bust, it will be remembered, used to be seen over the bookshelves of the old school library, until destroyed, with all the other contents of the first building, when it was burned some thirty years ago. At his funeral, when he was
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buried in the new cemetery, the school attended in procession, and the old banner, carried by Thomas Faucett, was brought out for the last time.
The first principal of the school was Mr. Hathaway, followed by Mr. Samuel Hallett (afterwards prominent in Pacific Railroad affairs), and then by Mr. E. J. Hamilton. The last named gentleman came to Bath from Wellsboro, Pa., and under his administration the school maintained a most remarkable reputation. His talents as a teacher were indeed exceptional, and he was ever held in the highest esteem by all who came under his influence. No Rugby boy ever felt greater respect and veneration for Dr. Arnold than is, even to this day, yielded to Professor Hamilton by his for- mer pupils, and widely scattered as they are, and many of them filling important and responsible positions in the world's work, I believe that each one still feels a sentiment of pride in the thought that Mr. Hamilton had once been his instructor. Of his accomplished wife, who occupied the position of preceptress, it is difficult for us to express our highest admira- tion for her character. The memory of her kindly influence and the brightness of her intellect will always live in the hearts of those who were permitted to know her.
No old Haverling boy will forget to pay a kindly tribute to the patience and watchful care of Miss Melinda Hull, who for so many years presided in the primary department, and who is still living among us in the enjoy- ment of a peaceful old age.
These recollections are doubtless of little value to the general public, but they may perhaps awaken an interest in some of those veterans among us who can boast of having passed through all the grades of Haverling school, from the time when they were matriculated in the basement, until the day when they proudly stepped on the upper platform and roused the hearts of admiring friends by "Rienzi's Address to the Romans," "The Vulture of the Alps," or " Bingen on the Rhine."
At the present luxurious time, when every hamlet is favored with a brass band and drum major, it is difficult to realize the exalted station occupied by the music makers before the war. He must be degenerated indeed, and dull to all the finer emotions, who can now recall without a thrill of excitement the sound of the pealing fife and the rattling, boom- ing drums, as the old " Bath Artillery," under the stern command of Cap- tain Whiting and Lieutenant Bonham, left their armory in Congress Hall and wheeled out of Orchard street into Liberty, with their white and scar- let plumes waving in the wind ; their ponderous muskets, with glittering bayonets pointing to the sky ; each man carrying at his belt a sheathed cheese knife, modeled after the swords used by the Romans at the battle of Pharsalia. But it was the head of the column-the music dressed in their blue frock-coats with scarlet facings, and "buttons all over 'em," that roused the enthusiasm of the street. First came the fifer, Julius Smead, a
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master of the art. I can see him now, wheeling round at intervals to mark that the drummers kept step and maintained the proper distance, his eye frequently lifted to the zenith in the effort to bring out a high note of the " White Cockade " or "The Girl I Left Behind Me." We shall not see his like again, and well he deserves a niche beside the great Antony Van Corlear, the trumpeter of New Amsterdam.
Next appeared Miles Terrill and Merlin Graham, expert manipulators of the snare drum, and under whose skillful strokes that instrument was capable of producing effects that would be vainly imitated by the degen- erate pounders of sheep-skin of the present day. Last, but far from least, in fact the groundwork and foundation of the whole, came the ponderous bass drum booming and roaring under the fierce and well-timed blows of Ira Edwards.
Such was the " Martial Band " of our younger days, and many of us may often doubt whether any combination of brass or reed has ever fully sup- plied its place, although for the finer purpose of a moonlight serenade, we confess to many tender recollections of the "Bath Cornet Band," in the days of Jefferson French and Samuel Van Pelt. There are now probably but few members of the Rescue Hook and Ladder Company who are aware that the organization once possessed an ambitious brass band of its own, but the older members, who used to enjoy its rehearsals, will never forget it ; and while memory lasts they will recall with melancholy pleas- ure the spirit-stirring strains of " Number Six."
There were not wanting, even in the early days, certain amenities of life, which, though not characteristic of the Puritan Fathers of New Eng- land, are yet interesting as proving to us that our progenitors were not always engaged in grinding toil to the exclusion of occasional relaxation ; for, as we all have heard, there occurred in September, 1796, the great race between the thoroughbreds, Silk-Stockings and Virginia Nell, in which the former won the Steuben sweepstakes and a fame that has lasted even to this day ; and as the old play-bill tells us, on New Year's night, 1798, the beauty and fashion of the forest city were assembled in the old theatre at the corner of Morris and Steuben streets, to see the curtain rise on the comedy of the "Sultan," as given by the actors imported from Baltimore. We must conclude that the performance was exceedingly lengthy, or else that the Bath society of that day was really not given to late hours, for the programme announces, "Doors opens at half-past five ; curtain will rise at precisely half-past six."
But they have all long since finished their work and played their play, and the last lingerer of their generation has gone. If you walk a short distance up Steuben street, from the corner of Liberty, you will see where some of them are quietly sleeping in the old cemetery, and many others are now lying under the oaks in what was once called " Campbell's Grove."
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"'Verily, they do rest from their labors ;" and to their toils and sacrifices, their battles with the forest and endurance of hardships and exposures, we owe the smiling fertility of these broad acres around us, and whatsoever is now spread out to charm us in this beautiful valley, which they redeemed from the wilderness and prepared for our occupation.
" We tread the paths their feet have worn, We sit beneath their orchard trees,' We hear, like them, the hum of bees And rustle of the bladed corn ; We turn the pages that they read, Their written words we linger o'er, But in the sun they cast no shade, No voice is heard, no sign is made, No step is on the conscious floor."
But their works do live after them. And as for us, standing in the rising dawn of a new century, and realizing the debt we owe to those who laid the broad foundations of our prosperity, let us yield them to-day their full meed of praise ; let us honor the virtues of a type of men and women that, together with the old days, have passed away forever.
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BY HON, JUSTIN R, WHITING,
MR CHAIRMAN, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN :- When I received the invita- tion from your President to visit you on this occasion and address you, I was somewhat surprised, but I was more greatly pleased. I at once decided to accept the invitation, not with the idea that I had anything to say that you wished to hear, but I wanted to see and I wanted to hear.
As I left Bath when only two years of age, I practically knew nothing of it or its people ; but when I first learned to talk, or at least when I was asked to tell where I was born, I was proud of the fact that I was born in old Steuben.
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