USA > Ohio > Wood County > Farm journal rural directory of Wood County, Ohio 1916 > Part 1
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Gc 977.101 W85f 1916 1583197
M. L.
..
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
1
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 03616 4710
Please check (1) map in back pocket after each use.
GENEALOGY 977.101 W85F
Gc 977. W85f 1916 1583
一
Go 97 WE 19 15
600
FARMERS' DIRECTORY
M. L. DONAHEY, President
H. G. HANKEY, Vice-President
B. C. HARDING, Cashier G. W. FEARNSIDE, Asst. Cashier
FIRST NATIONAL BANK
BOWLING GREEN, OHIO
4 PER CENT. ON SAVINGS OR CERTIFICATES OF DEPOSITS
DIRECTORS
M. L. Donahey
H. G. Hankey
C. R. Nearin 3
Henry Goodenough
A. E. Cen J. F. Frost
M. B. Reider
J. G. Starn B. C. Harding
THE FARM JOURNAL RURAL DIRECTORY
OF 1
WOOD COUNTY
OHIO
(With a Complete Road Map of the County)
COPYRIGHT, 1916 BY WILMER ATKINSON COMPANY
PUBLISHED BY WILMER ATKINSON COMPANY PHILADELPHIA 1916
WOOD COUNTY
The New and Finely Equipped Building Just Completed
- D. W. Young
FUNERAL DIRECTOR
Wood Co.'s Most Up-to-date Mortuary Establishment
Complete Motor and Horse Drawn Funeral Equipment Both Phones BOWLING GREEN, OHIO
Private Chapel and Morgue
We also carry a complete Art and Gift Goods Dept., including Pictures and Picture Framing
Fast Motor Ambulance Service Day or Night
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FARMERS' DIRECTORY
A Refreshing Spot.
1583197
WOOD COUNTY
SOME FACTS AND FIGURES
W OOD COUNTY, with a total of 4,357 farms in an area of 612 square miles, is distinctly a farm county. More than 91 per cent. of the entire area of the county is in its farms, and more than 70 per cent. is under cultivation. The farms are, as a rule, of more than average size, less than 4 per cent. being under ten acres. They are almost without exception profitable and correspondingly valuable. The farmers, as a class, are the most prosperous folks in the county. In view of the number of farmers, that is in itself a statement of the wealth of this section.
The farm population of Wood County is almost exclusively native- born white. There are but few foreign, and only one negro farmer in the entire county according to the most recent United States Government statistics.
It is interesting to note the number of farms in the county operated by their owners. Of this class there are 2,615 or 60 per cent. One thousand eight hundred and thirty-six or 70 per cent. of them are reported
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WOOD COUNTY
free of mortgage debt. This is an exceptionally large percentage. Of the balance, the remarkably low mortgage indebtedness of only 29 per cent. of the entire valuation is carried. Even in the absence of other statistical figures, these mortgage statements alone would indicate exceptional prosperity among Wood County farmers.
The largest single crop, and the one produced most generally throughout the entire county, is corn, of which 4,463,745 bushels were produced in 1910, a notably bad crop year, but the latest for which authoritative figures are available. Following closely on this for quantity is oats, with a total of 2,620,974 bushels ; wheat comes next, with 353,678 bushels, and potatoes fourth, with 185,525 bushels. The combined total value of these four crops was in excess of four million dollars.
Everywhere is an atmosphere of hard work. Everyone takes work seriously and as a matter of course. There is no false pride about it, and no failure to realize its importance and its necessity. Rich farmers' wives, and sons and daughters, take pride in their fine butter, their eggs, their vegetables, their chickens and their stock. The relations between the people of the farms and the people of the county seat are most cordial. The farmers deposit their savings in the local banks, and deal in the local stores.
This directory is published in the belief that it will serve to acquaint the residents of one end of the county with those of the other. We believe it to be accurate. We realize, however, that even in the most carefully compiled and printed books certain errors are bound to appear, and we apologize in advance for any such that may be found by our subscribers.
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FARMERS' DIRECTORY
The Policy
of this Store is Courteous Treatment, Satisfaction and Full Value for Every Dollar
&.DroneyYCo. BOWLING GREEN OHIO
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WOOD COUNTY
SPRAYING FORMULAS
FUNGICIDES .- Bordeaux mixture is made by taking three pounds of sulphate of copper, four pounds of quicklime, fifty gallons of water. To dissolve the copper sulphate, put it into a coarse cloth bag and suspend the bag in a re- ceptacle partly filled with water. Next, slake the lime in a tub, and strain the milk of lime thus obtained into another receptacle. Now get some one to help you, and with buckets, simultaneously pour the two liquids into the spraying barrel or tank. Lastly, add sufficient water to make fifty gallons. It is safe to use this full-strength Bordeaux on almost all foliage-except, perhaps, on extra tender things, such as watermelon vines, peach trees, etc. For these it is wiser to use a half-strength mixture.
FORMALIN .- This is also called for- maldehyde, and may be purchased at drug stores. Its principal use is to treat seed potatoes to prevent "scab." Soak the whole seed for two hours in a mixture of one-half pint formalin and fifteen gallons of cold water; dry the seed, cut, and plant in ground that has not recently grown potatoes.
BORDEAUX COMBINED WITH INSECT POISON .- By adding one-quarter pound of Paris green to eachi fifty gallons of Bordeaux, the mixture becomes a com- bined fungicide and insecticide. Or, instead of Paris green, add about two pounds of arsenate of lead. The advan- tages of arsenate of lead over Paris green are, first, it is not apt to burn foliage even if used in rather excessive quantities; and, second, it "sticks" to the foliage, etc., better and longer.
INSECTICIDES .- ARSENATE OF LEAD .- This is the best insecticide for chewing insects, and is for sale by seeds- men. Use about two pounds in fifty gallons of water.
WHITE HELLEBORE .- This, if fresh,
may be used instead of Paris green in some cases-worms on currant and gooseberry bushes, for instance. (It is not such a powerful poison as the ar- senites, and would not do so well for tough insects such as potato-bugs.) Steep two ounces in one gallon of hot water, and use as a spray.
FOR SUCKING INSECTS .- Now we come to another class of insecticides, suited to insects which suck a plant's juice but do not chew. Arsenic will not kill such pests; therefore we must resort to solutions which kill by contact.
KEROSENE EMULSION .- One-half pound of hard or one quart of soft soap; kero- sene, two gallons; boiling soft water, one gallon. If hard soap is used, slice it fine and dissolve it in water by boiling ; add the boiling solution (away from the fire) to the kerosene, and stir or violently churn for from five to eight minutes, until the mixture assumes a creamy consistency. If a spray pump is at hand, pump the mixture back upon itself with considerable force for about five minutes. Keep this as a stock. It must be further diluted with water be- fore using. One part of emulsion to fifteen parts of water, is about right for lice.
CARBOLIC ACID EMULSION .- Made by dissolving one pound of hard soap or one quart of soft soap in a gallon of boiling water, to which one pint of crude carbolic acid is added, the whole being stirred into an emulsion. One part of this is added to about thirty-five parts of water and poured around the bases of the plants, about four ounces per plant at each application, beginning when the plants are set out and re- peated every week or ten days until the last of May. Used to fight maggots.
WHALE-OIL SOAP SOLUTION .- Dissolve one pound of whale-oil soap in a gallon
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FARMERS' DIRECTORY
of hot water, and dilute with about six gallons of cold water. This is a good application for aphis (lice) on trecs or plants. For oyster-shell or scurvy scale use this spray in May or June or when the tiny scale lice are moving about on the bark.
TOBACCO TEA .- Place five pounds of tobacco stems in a water-tight vessel, and cover them with three gallons of hot water. Allow to stand several hours ; dilute the liquor by adding about seven gallons of water. Strain and ap- ply. Good for lice.
LIME-SULPHUR MIXTURE. - Slake twenty-two pounds of fresh lump lime in the vessel in which the mixture is to be boiled, using only enough water to cover the lime. Add seventeen pounds of sulphur (flowers or powdered), hav- ing previously mixed it in a paste with water. Then boil the mixture for about an hour in about ten gallons of water, using an iron but not a copper vessel. Next add enough more water to make, in all, fifty gallons. Strain through wire sieve or netting, and apply while mixture is still warm. A good, high- pressure pump is essential to satisfac- tory work. Coat every particle of the tree. This is the standard San Jose scale remedy, although some orchardists prefer to use the soluble oil sprays now on the market.
PYRETHRUM, OR PERSIAN INSECT POW- DER .- It may be dusted on with a pow- der bellows when the plants are wet; or one ounce of it may be steeped in one gallon of hot water, and sprayed on the plants at any time. It is often used on flowers, in greenhouses, on vegeta- bles, etc.
BISULPHIDE OF CARBON .- This is used to kill weevils in beans and peas, etc. It comes in liquid form and may be had of druggists. When exposed to the air it quickly vaporizes into a poisonous and explosive gas which is heavier than air and which will destroy all insect life. (Caution .- Do not inhale the vapor, and allow no lights near.)
Tobacco stems, tobacco dust, kainit, soot, freshly-slaked lime, dust, etc., are often used as insect preventives-in the soil around plants to keep away grubs, worms and maggots, or dusted on to discourage the visits of cucumber bugs, etc. (Note .- The first four arc excel lent fertilizers as well as insect pre- ventives.)
Crows and blackbirds frequently pull up planted corn. The best preventive is to tar the seed, as follows: Put the seed into a pail and pour on enough warm water to cover it. Add a tea- spoonful of coal-tar to a peck, and stir well. Throw the seed out on a sieve or in a basket to drain, and then stir in a few handfuls of land plaster (gyp- sum), or air-slaked limc.
A NEW FUNGICIDE .- Some orchard- ists are now using the following self- boiled lime-sulphur spray, instead of Bordeaux, claiming that it is less liable to spot or burn fruit and foliage: Put eight pounds of unslaked lump lime in a barrel; add enough water to cover. When the lime begins to hcat, throw in eight pounds of flowers of sulphur. Constantly stir and gradually pour on more water until the lime is all slaked; then add the rest of the water to cool the mixture. About fifty gallons of water, in all, are required. Strain. Two pounds of arsenate of Icad may be added, if desired, to the finished mixture, which then becomes a com- bined fungicide and insecticide, and may be used in the same manner as advised for Bordcaux-arsenate of lead. (Special note .- The self-boiled mixture is not the same as the lime-sulphur advised for San Jose scale, which is too strong for trees in foliage.)
If you do not care to bother with making spraying mixtures at home, they can be purchased, already prepared, of seedsmen. For only a few trees or plants, the extra cost of these factory mixtures is not great.
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WOOD COUNTY
SPRAYING CALENDAR
PLANT
APPLE (Scab, rot, rust, codling moth, bud moth, tent cater- fillar, canker worm, cur-
culo, etc.)
ASPARAGUS (Rust, beetles.)
BEAN (Anthracnose, leaf blight, weevil, etc.)
CABBAGE (Worms, lice, maggots, etc.)
CELERY
(Blight, rot, leaf spot, rust, caterpillars.)
CHERRY
(Rot, aphis, slug, curcuho, black knot, leaf blight, or spot, etc.)
CURRANT GOOSEBERRY (Worms, leaf blight.)
GRAPE (Fungous diseases, Rose bugs, lice, flea, beetle, leaf hopper, etc.)
MELONS CUCUMBERS
(Mildew, rot, blight, striped bugs, lice, flea beetle, etc.)
PEACH (Rot, mildew, leaf curl, curculio, etc.)
PEAR AND QUINCE (Leaf blight, scab, psylla, codling moth, blister mite, slugs, etc.)
PLUM
(Curculio, black knot, leaf bliaht. brown rot, etc.)
POTATO (Flea beetle , Colorado beetle, blight rot, etc.)
TOMATO (Rot, blight, etc.)
FIRST APPLICATION
When buds are swelling, but before they open, Bor- deaux.
Cut off all shoots below surface regularly until about July 1st.
Treat the sced before planting with bisulphide of carbon. (See remarks.) When third leaf expands, Bordeaux.
Pyrethrum or insect pow- der.
Half strength Bordeaux on young plants in hotbed or seedbed.
As buds are breaking, Bordeaux; when aphis ap- pear, tobacco solution or kerosene emulsion.
At first appearance of worms, helleborc.
In spring, when buds swell, Bordeaux.
Bordeaux, when vines be- gin to run.
As the buds swell, Bor- deaux.
As buds are swelling, Bordeaux.
When buds are swelling, Bordeaux.
Spray with Paris green and Bordeaux when about 4 in. high.
When plants are 6 in. high, Bordeaux.
SECOND APPLICATION
If canker worms are abun- dant just before blossoms open, Bordeaux-arsenical mixture.
After cutting ceases, let the shoots grow and spray them with Bordeaux-arseni- cal mixture.
10 days later, Bordeaux.
7-10 days later, repeat.
Bordeaux, after plants are transplanted to field. (Pyre- thrum for caterpillars if necessary.)
When blossoms drop, Bor- deaux-arsenical mixture.
10 days later, hellebore. Bordeaux if leaf blight is feared.
Just before flowers unfold, Bordeaux-arsenical mixture.
10-14 days repeat. (Note: Always use half strength Bordeaux on watermelon vines.)
When fruit has set. repeat. Jar trees for curculio.
Just before blossoms open, Bordeaux. Kerosene emul- sion when leaves open for psylla, if needed.
When blossoms have fallen, Bordeaux-arsenical mixture. Begin to jar trees for cur- culio.
Repeat before insects be- come numerous.
Repeat in 10-14 davs. (Fruit can be wiped if dis- figured by Bordeaux.)
NOTE .- For San Jose scale on trees and shrubs, spray with the lime sulphur mixture in autumn after leaves fall, or (preferably) in early spring, before buds start. The lime-sulphur
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FARMERS' DIRECTORY
SPRAYING CALENDAR
THIRD APPLICATION.
FOURTH APPLICATION.
REMARKS.
When blossoms have fallen. Вог-
8-12 days later, Bordeaux · arsenical mixture.
For aphis (lice) use one of the lice remedies mentioned elsewhere. Dig out borers from tree trunks with knife and wire. For oyster- shell scale, use whale-oil soap spray in June.
2-3 weeks later, Bor- deaux-arsenical mix- ture.
Repeat in 2-3 weeks.
Mow vines close to ground when they are killed by frost, burn them, and apply a mulch of stable manure.
14 days later, Bor- deaux.
14 days later, Bor- deaux.
For weevils: Put seed in tight box, put a cloth over seed, pour bisulphide of carbon on it, put lid on and keep closed for 48 hours. Use 1 oz. to 4 bus. of seed.
7-10 days later, re- peat.
Repeat every 10-14 days until crop gathered.
Root maggots: Pour carbolic acid emulsion around stem of plants. Club root : Rotate crops; apply lime to soil; burn refuse; treat seed with formalin before planting.
14 days later, re- peat.
14 days later, re- peat.
Rot or rust is often caused by hilling up with earth in hot weather. Use boards for summer cro'. Pithy stalks are due to poor seed; or lack of moisture.
10-14 deaux.
days, Bor-
Hellebore, if a second brood of slugs appear.
Black knot : Dark fungous-looking bunches or knots on limbs. Cut off and burn whenever seen.
10-14 days, repeat, if necessary.
2 to 4 weeks later, repeat.
Cane-borers may be kept in check by cutting out and burning infested canes.
When fruit has set, Bordeaux - arsenical mixture.
2 to 4 weeks later, Bordeaux.
For lice, use any of the lice remedies. For rose bugs, use 10 pounds of arsenate of lead and one gallon of molasses in 50 gallons of water, as a spray. Or knock the bugs into pans of kerosene every day.
10-14 days, repeat.
10-14 days, repeat.
Use lice remedies for lice. For striped bugs, protect young plants with a cover of mosquito netting over each hill. Or keep vines well dusted with a mixture of air-slaked lime, to- bacco dust and a little Paris green.
When fruit is one- half grown, Bor- deaux.
NOTE :- It is safer always to use half- strength Bordeaux on peach foliage.
Dig out borers. Cut down and burn trees affected with "yellows."
After blossoms have fallen. Bordeaux-ar- senical mixture.
8-12 days later, re- peat.
Look out for "fire blight." Cut out and burn blighted branches whenever seen.
10-14 days later, repeat.
10-20 days later, Bordeaux.
Cut out black knot whenever seen.
Repeat for blight, rot and insects.
Repeat.
To prevent scabby tubers, treat the seed with formalin before planting.
Repeat in 10-14 days.
Hand-pick tomato worms.
mixture is a fungicide as well as a scale cure, and if it is used the first early Bordeaux spray may be omitted.
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deaux-arsenical mix- ture.
WOOD COUNTY
Concrete
Concrete is made by mixing together Portland cement, sand and stone (or gravel). Various proportions of each are used, depending upon the use to which the concrete is put. About half an hour after mixing these materials together, the mass begins to stiffen, until, in from half a day to a day, it be- comes so hard that you cannot dent it with the hand. By a month the mass is hard as stone-indeed, harder than most stones. The best way to buy cement is in cloth sacks. Manufacturers charge more for cement in cloth sacks, but allow a rebate for the return of the empty sacks. A bag of cement weighs 95 pounds, and four such bags make a barrel of 380 pounds.
It is important that your stock of cement be kept in a dry place. Once wet, it becomes hard and lumpy, and in such condition is useless. If, how- ever, the lumps are caused by pressure in the storehouse, the cement may be used with safety. Lumps thus formed can be easily broken by a blow from the back of a shovel.
In storing cement, throw wooden blocks on the floor. Place boards over them and pile the cement on the boards, covering the pile with a canvas or a piece of roofing paper. Never, under any circumstances, keep cement on the bare ground, or pile it directly against the outside walls of the building.
Do not use very fine sand. If there is a large quantity of fine sand handy, obtain a coarse sand and mix the two sands together in equal parts; this mix- ture is as good as coarse sand alone.
Sometimes fine sand must be used, be- cause no other can be obtained; but in such an event an additional amount of cement must be used-sometimes as much as double the amount ordinarily required. For example, in such a case, instead of using a concrete 1 part ce- ment, 21/2 parts sand and 5 parts stone, use a concrete 1 part cement, 11/4 parts sand and 21/2 parts stone.
Besides being coarse, the sand should be clean. The presence of dirt in the sand is easily ascertained by rubbing a little in the palm of the hand. If a little is emptied into a pail of water, the presence of dirt will be shown by the discoloration of the water. This can be discovered also by filling a fruit jar to the depth of 4 inches with sand and then adding water until it is within
an inch of the top. After the jar has been well shaken, the contents should be allowed to settle for a couple of hours. The sand will sink to the bottom, but the mud, which can be easily recognized by its color, will form a distinct layer on top of the sand, and above both will be a clear depth of water. If the layer of mud is more than one-half inch in thickness, the sand should not be used unless it is first washed.
To wash sand build a loose board platform from 10 to 15 feet long, with one end a foot higher than the other. On the lower end and on the sides nail a board 2 by 6 inches on edge to hold the sand. Spread the sand over this platform in a layer three or four inches thick, and wash it with a hose. The washing should be started at the high end and the water allowed to run through the sand and over the 2-by-6- inch piece at the bottom. A small quantity of clay or loam does not injure the sand, but any amount over 5 per cent. does.
Great care should be used in the selection of the stone or gravel. The pebbles should be closely inspected to see that there is no clay on their sur- face. A layer of such clay prevents the "binding" of the cement. If neces- sary, stone or gravel may be washed in the same way as above described for sand. Dust may be left in the crushed stone without fear of its inter- fering with the strength of the cement, but care should be taken to see that such dust is distributed evenly through the whole mass, and when dust is found in stone, slightly less sand should be used than ordinarily. As to the size of stone or gravel, this must be de- termined by the form of construction contemplated. For foundations or any large thick structure, use anything from 1/2 to 21/2 inches in diameter. For thir. walls use 14 to 1-inch stone. The best results are obtained by the use of a mixture of sizes graded from small to large. By this means the spaces be- tween the stones or pebbles are reduced and a more compact concrete is ob- tained. Moreover, this method makes it possible to get along with less sand and less cement.
Water for concrete should be clean and free from strong acids and alkalies. It may be readily stored in a barrel
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FARMERS' DIRECTORY
beside the mixing board and placed on the concrete with a bucket.
If you are at all in doubt about the purity of the water that you contemplate using, it would be well to make up a block of concrete as a test, and see whether the cement "sets" properly.
For ordinary work a very satisfac- tory concrete mixture is 1 part of Port- land cement, 21/2 parts of clean sharp sand, 5 parts of broken stone. In heavy foundation work, the quantity of cement can be considerably less. The important thing is to have the sand and cement thoroughly mixed, and to use only clean sand. Use only as much water as necessary. It is not well to work con- crete in freezing weather.
Cold Storage Without Ice
Why not have a cold storage room somewhere on the farm? Winter apples may be kept in such a place until spring, thus avoiding the necessity of market- ing the fruit at unprofitable times. A Pennsylvania farmer has such a place built in one part of his barn-a double- walled, double-doored, paper-lined space wherein he stores many hundred bushel crates of selected fruit. He says that the main essentials are to keep out heat and frost from the room. On cool nights he leaves the doors open, shut- ting them again when the sun begins to warm things up in the morning-the idea being to use cold air instead of ice for reducing the room's temperature. He aims to get the temperature in the room as low as possible without freez- ing the apples, and then hold it there. Night air is cheaper than ice, he says, and about as good.
How to Make and Use a Fireless Cooker
A saver of time, fuel and labor is the fireless cook stove, which can be made at home, absolutely without ex- pense, and, though not adapted to all kinds of cooking, answers well for food that requires long, slow cooking to soften tissues, bring out flavors and conserve the juices, such as stews, pot roasts, soups, cereals, rice, tapioca, dried fruits, vegetables, etc. It consists of a kettle of agate or tin, inclosed in a box with insulating material between them to pre- vent the heat of the kettle from escap- ing. Food brought to the boiling point over a fire, and inclosed, still boiling, continues to cook. This is the whole
principle. Choose a kettle with tight- fitting lid and a box large enough to allow six or eight inches of insulating material. Line the box, bottom, sides and hinged-on lid with stout packing paper, or several thicknesses of news- paper. Make a firm, cylindrical shape to fit easily around the kettle and fasten a circular bottom to it. This might be of asbestos paper, or paper soaked in alum water and dried. Then no matter how hot the kettle there would be no danger of scorching. Fill the bottom of the box with packing, which can be of cotton, wool, ground cork (in which im- ported grapes are packed and which grocers are usually willing to give away). Hay will answer, but does not pack so closely as these. Pack hard to a depth of three inches, place the cylinder, con- taining the kettle in the middle, and pack tightly around it, even with the top. The insulating material can be covered neatly with cloth, or a thin board with a round hole in the middle. A thick cushion will insulate the space between this and the lid, which must be fastened down tightly. If desired to cook several things at once it is best to have two or three such cookers, as the box should not be opened after the food is put in, except to reheat. Some persons prefer using a sort of double boiler, the inner kettle, containing the food, being placed in a larger one, partly filled with hot water. In this case the water in both kettles must be actually boiling. An additional vegetable can be put in the outside kettle, or water kept hot in it for dishwashing.
Ready-made cookers can be bought, but are rather expensive. Some of these will also bake and roast by means of thick disks of concrete which must be made very hot on the stove, then put under and over the kettle containing the food. The idea might be applied to the home-made cooker by heating soapstone griddles. These might be heated at the same time with a large iron pot. The meat or chicken, which should be sea- soned, can be put in a kettle, a hot disk put in the bottom of the pot, the kettle set on this; the other disk put on top, then put the lid on the pot and bury in the cooker. The pot, however, should be inclosed in asbestos paper to avoid pos- sible ignition. It would be interesting for each housekeeper to experiment and invent improvements on the central idea. The time required for cooking vegetables varies according to their age and fresh-
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