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REMINISCENCES
OF ELYRIA, OHIO
MRS. MARY BEEBE HALL
Gc 977.102 Elgh
Gc 977.102 EL9h 1195058
M. L:
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
GEN
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 02279 8562
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ERRATA.
Page 33-
Seventh line from bottom, read "would wear" in place of wore.
Fifth line from bottom, read "admissible" instead of admittable.
Page 34- Thirteenth line from bottom, read "Nahum " instead of Nathan.
Page 35- Eleventh line from bottom, read "colonizationists" in- stead of colonists.
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MRS. MARY BEEBE HALL
UNTATLIMENTS DA JAVID C. BALD W !! I.
REMINISCENCES
OF
ELYRIA, OHIO.
DEDICATED TO THE LORAIN COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY.
MARCH 1, 1900.
MRS. MARY BEEBE HALL.
PUBLISHED BY THE LORAIN COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY.
1900.
1195058
Reminiscences of Elyria.
MRS. MARY BEEBE HALL.
AT the request of the Lorain County Historical Society, I present herein the following fragmentary and disconnected sketch of the early settlement of Elyria, Ohio, partly made up from notes and data of my revered father (the late Arte- mas Beebe, Sr.) and partly from my own recollections of my native place:
In 1816, Mr. Heman Ely, of West Springfield, Mass., left his home in a sulky, came to Buffalo, from there he finished his journey on horseback. In coming along the lake shore he followed the trail through the woods along the lake. The ground was soft and gave way, the horse's hind feet were thrown over the high bank, but he clung with his fore feet to the ground and the life of the founder of Elyria was saved. Mr. Ely made his home with Moses Eldred, who kept a log tavern two miles east of Elyria, known at this date as the Savage farm.
At this time Wyandot and Seneca Indians roamed these forests, "monarchs of all they surveyed," coming up the Canesadoohari (Black River) to Big Falls in canoes, camping on Evergreen Point (Washington avenue). Skulls, arrows and cooking utensils have been discovered along the river and in the big cave, showing this spot was a favorite camp- ing ground.
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
Mr. Ely at once made a contract with Hubbel & Shipperd, of Newburg, Ohio, to build a dam across Black river at the foot of Main street, a grist and saw mill below, a log house to be occupied by the men to carry on the improvements. This log house stood in front of the power house of the electric road at the foot of Broad street.
In January, 1817, Roderick Ashley, Edwin Bush, and James Porter came from Massachusetts on foot with axes on their shoulders to fell the trees and clear the land for a town, beginning at the east end of Broad street.
James Porter, the Irishman, remained in Elyria, acquired property, built houses and died here, leaving a family, the others returned to their homes in New England.
John Bacon, of Columbia, and his family, kept this house and boarded the men.
Mr. Ely returned to West Springfield to make arrange- ments to continue the improvements. In February, 1817, with six in his party: Mr. Ely, Ebenezer Lane, stepbrother of Mr. Ely; Artemas Beebe, builder; Luther Lane, who drove the team; Ann Snow, cook; and Ned, a colored boy, in a stout lumber wagon covered with tow cloth, started in good spirits for the western wilderness. After various mis- haps they arrived at Black River on the 17th of March, 1817. Finding the river too high to ford with wagon some of the party returned to Moses Eldred's log tavern. The remain- der of the party signaled Roderick Ashley and with a canoe were taken across the river to the log boarding house, had a hearty welcome and a good supper of venison-a new dish to the Yankee boys.
This boarding house had a large room for living room, kitchen, dining room and pantry, two large bed rooms, a large fire-place for heating and cooking, a ladder in one corner reached the undivided chamber, very comfortable in summer for a sleeping room, but in the winter the snow would blow through under the shakes, covering the beds and
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
floor, not a pleasant place to dress, no toilet arrangements were furnished in the rooms, a bench in corner of living room held a tin basin in the winter, in summer a stump was util- ized outside.
The bedsteads were made of poles, springs of bark. Pil- lows that could pass for shams, stout ticks filled with straw for beds.
The Bacons returned to their own house and Ann Snow began the housekeeping. The food was flour, shack pork (pigs fattened on nuts in the woods), and a small brown pea. The Indians furnished the first fresh fish caught below Big Falls, and occasionally a deer would be brought in by them on their way from Lower Sandusky.
Black river was a much larger stream than now, being fed by swamps and small streams. No other log house was built in the village of Elyria, which was between the east and west branches of the river, but from time to time much of the township has been added to the corporation. A few years since a log house was built on the fair grounds as a reminder of the homes in the west.
The road coming into town was by the cemetery, through the lot known in after years as Crabapple Orchard, the cider of which was famous. At present, streets and pretty homes take the place of Crabapple Orchard.
Across the river below, the railroad bridge intersected Main street near Cedar, westerly crossing Black River near Mussey's quarry on Murray Ridge, where the Infirmary is, around the big Cranberry marsh to South Ridge on to South Amherst.
This road was supposed to be the one Hull's army passed over in the war of 1812. As there were no bridges at this time travelers had to wait for the streams to fall if they chanced to strike them when high. There was a ferry across Cuyahoga river, one log house half way to Cleveland at this date.
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
The Indians were great lovers of whiskey, which was made in a distillery built in 1819, by one Wright, on the gravel lot opposite the cemetery. They would come into town riding bareback, wrapped in blankets, single file, with squaws be- hind and pappooses strapped to their backs. The Indians kept one sober to control the others. They were generally very peaceable. A favorite camping place was along the river, known for years as the Hoyle property. The soil was sandy and a growth of evergreen made a fine place for their tents. A party passing when Mr. Ely's house was being built, said: "What you doing here, you white man ?" An- swer-"Building a house for Mr. Ely." "You no business here. This land belongs to us Indians." Some of their names were "Good Heart," "Red Jacket," "Betwixt the Logs."
Wild animals were numerous at the time of the settlement of Elyria, and for several years after, and were hunted and de- stroyed as they were so destructive to the pigs that lived in the woods and dangerous to travelers, for wolves roamed about up and down, making night hideous with their howling. The last one killed, after being followed for days, was in 1844, at New Haven, Huron county. The skin was stuffed and placed in Natural History room in Ely block.
In the winter of 1830, Albert A. Harris, a resident of Elyria, later connected with the Cleveland Herald, met a bear and three cubs on what is now known as Lake avenue. The bear fled on being shot at and the cubs took to a tree. They were brought down by shots, captured and exhibited in town. My own view of them was from the top of a kitchen table.
In 1831 a bear passed through town pursued by hunters, creating a disturbance among the children as it passed back of the school house, which stood on the park. It was killed three miles out on the road now known as Lake avenue, and was the last one seen in town. Deer were very plenty and
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EAST FALLS AND OLD RED MILL
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
often ventured near the dwellings. Large droves were seen at times. Wild turkey were numerous, a thirty pounder was sold for thirty cents.
Snakes were very common along the river, especially along the west branch, where there were dens of rattle snakes, and many parties were formed to destroy them. Deacon Lane made a mark for every one he killed on a fallen tree, and had forty.
Mr. Lang, of Cleveland, born in Elyria in 1823 in a house owned by Angeline Brown on corner of East avenue north, told me this summer that his father had a pair of shoes made of rattle snake skins when he was a small child.
The first building erected in Elyria was a small frame one- story building on the southwest corner of the Ely home- stead Jot. It was used the first year as a joiner shop, the next year as a general store kept by Edward West & Co., and the first store in Elyria, which has been noted all these years for the extensive trade from all the country about it. This building was made into a dwelling house enlarged, and used as the home of many of Elyria's early citizens and was the home where N. B. Gates commenced housekeeping. Later this building was moved to the other side of Main street.
The first frame dwelling was a residence for Mr. Ely on Main street. It was forty-five feet front, forty feet deep, two stories with cellar under the main part, kitchen in rear, fire- places in every room, brick oven in kitchen, as well as a fire- place to do the cooking for the family, as no stoves were known at such an early date. The siding of the house was made from one white wood tree cut on the place near the bend in the road.
A large barn was being built at the same time. Invitations were sent to Ridgeville, which was settled before Elyria, and the country about and were readi' · responded to, and both frames were raised the same day.
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
The house has undergone great changes inside and out. With the green-houses, the fine gardens filled with choice flowers, it is very unlike the plain two-story house, the first Ely homestead, which has descended from father to sons, and occupied at present by the grandson Charles.
Mr. Ely returned to West Springfield in the fall of 1818, going by the steam boat "Walk-in-the-Water," the first steam boat on the lake, to Buffalo. He was married on the IOth of October to Celia Belden, and in company with Ebenezer Lane, afterwards Chief Justice of Court, a man of wide reputation, who married a daughter of Governor Gris- wold, of Connecticut, returned to Elyria. As the Ely home was not finished they occupied the log house. When it was known Mr. Ely had returned with a wife, Mrs. Geo. Sexton, of Ridgeville, sister of W. O. Cahoon, of Elyria, and a friend, came to call on the bride and welcome her. They were pleasantly entertained, and after tea started for home through the woods, but lost their way near where the switch house of the Lake Shore is, and passed the night between two lean- ing trees until daylight, which was long in coming. They found their way home rejoiced on their safe return and pleas- ant call.
Mrs. Ely was a lovely woman, beloved by all who knew her. Children were specially fond of her. She did not live long to enjoy the home she had helped to make. She died in 1827, leaving two sons, Heman and Albert.
Mr. Ely rode on horseback a great deal, made one or two trips to Massachusetts and Columbus. He was often accom- panied by his wife in riding about the country. On one of her trips she used for a riding whip a willow switch cut from a tree on the river road. On her return it was put in the ground on the corner and grew to an immense size, over- shadowing an office which was built there. Mr. Ely was known as Judge Ely, having been Associate Judge. He took great interest in all that conduced to the growth and pros-
EAST BRANCH OF BLACK RIVER
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
perity of the town, was very methodical and just in his deal- ings with men, holding all to contracts and keeping his own word. He took great pride in having the town tidy and streets well kept. On his bay horse, Monday morning, ac- companied by horse, cart and driver, he oversaw the work of clearing away all rubbish in the streets. He not only took great interest in the town, but was wide-awake and inter- ested in all moral and religious work. He died in 1852, leaving three sons. Heman Ely was born October 30, 1820, in Elyria, the eldest son of Judge Ely. He had a very thorough business training by his father, was identified with all prominent enterprises, organizing the banks. He was active in securing the railroad from Cleveland to Toledo in 1852, and was representative in the Legislature in 1872-3, was a high Mason, gave much time and attention to the lodge, held a high position, was thoroughly Republican in politics, an active, interested member of the Congregational Church and superintendent of the Sunday-school for many years. He was one of the builders of the fine stone church for which he did much to sustain. In 1841 he married Mary Monteith, who died in 1849, leaving three children, only one of whom survives, namely George H. In 1850 Mr. Ely mar- ried Mary Day, of Hartford, Conn. Four children were born to this marriage, all of whom survive the beloved mother and father.
Mrs. Mary Day Ely was a lovely Christian woman, active in all religious work in her own church, but not confined to that alone. She was a friend in need to the many to whom she ministered. One used to say: "How does she know of these?" in a quiet way, as if she had known. Like disap- pointment and suffering, she sought the poor, the afflicted with lovely Christian spirit and sympathy.
" Nor hath she ever chanced to know
That aught were easier than to bless."
Mr. Ely died in 1891, Mrs. Ely, September 15, 1895.
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
The next house after Mr. Ely's was built by Beebe and Douglas on the first lot purchased in the village of Elyria opposite the Ely homestead, a large two-story house built for a tavern (as hotels were unknown at that time). Mr. Beebe bought out his partner in 1819.
This house was for years known as Beebe tavern where people gathered as a center for social life. The Masonic Lodge was organized here. It was the stopping place for travelers seeking western homes; also for lawyers and judges while holding court. Later on it became the stage house, from whose door the stage left on its daily trips east and west. Mr. Beebe journeyed back and forth to his New Eng- land home a number of times on foot or with horse and buggy until October 4, 1820, he' was married to Pamelia Morgan, of West Springfield, Mass., and started for their western home with a span of horses, and covered wagon filled with all possible articles to take, for housekeeping (necessi- ties largely). A big brass kettle to use over the fire for all domestic purposes, brass andirons, candlesticks, warming pan to heat the beds, foot stove to use in riding, or sitting in cold rooms, bed linen and wardrobe, and for four long weeks this young couple journeyed on through mud and various mishaps of overturned wagon, a roll down hill of wagon and contents, and landed in Elyria to begin their home-making in a large and unplastered house, welcomed by Captain Cooley and family, who had occupied the house after it was finished up to Mr. Beebe's home-coming with his wife.
This home contained large fire-places in all the living rooms and a larger one in the kitchen with oven and crane, and a big stone hearth, plenty of wood to burn, big back- logs for foundation, for fires were always buried at night, as matches were not known.
What a beginning for a bride who left the old home on the Connecticut river, father, mother, sisters and brothers, and the church on the hill for the log church in the woods.
ISTAGE OFFICE
ARTEMAS BEEBE TAVERN-1820
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
Two weeks would intervene ere any word from the "old folks at home" could arrive.
Mrs. Beebe was one of the ten who organized the Presby- terian church in Elyria in 1824 (later on changed to Congre- gational), and with Mrs. Ely, who were both members of the choir at home, continued to take active part in building up this new church.
The arrangement of this home was typical of many others of the early times with fire-places and ovens. Occasionally the ovens were built outside under a shed with a big stump used for foundation.
This big fire-place deserves a passing notice and I always feel sorry for people who never have known how much pleasure is associated with it, as it, with the oven, was the only cooking arrangements. A large iron bake kettle with a lid would be utilized at times in the corner of the big hearth. What a delight for a child to sit and watch the process, with live coals from fire-place under and over, bis- cuits, gingerbread and johnnycake were done to a turn. Once a week the oven would be heated, filled with bread, pies and cake; what anticipations of coming good things. Beefsteak on gridiron in front of the fire with live coals to broil it (never such steak), spare-ribs or turkey on a cord in front of the fire, turned and basted until fit for a king. How pretty a row of apples looked roasting, how nice corn popped, and what fun to crack hickorynuts on the stone hearth (for it did not crack it) and eaten in the evenings. Baskets full were gathered and spread on garret floor, making a winter's supply for family and friends. Sweet cider, too. Stomachs were not recognized; one never heard of appendecitis. There were rhubarb and castor oil in the house, and peppermint in the lot, if one needed remedies in emergencies.
Candles were depended upon for lighting houses, meetings and going about the streets on dark nights with a tin lan- tern. They were made in the fall and it was a disagreeable
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
task, but a necessity. Notices were often given that meet- ings will begin at early candle light (we wish they did now). One good minister, in giving a weekly notice, said: “Meet- ing will begin at early candle light, the Lord willing, Tues- day night and Thursday night same time, "willing or not." Candle snuffing was quite a feat in absence of snuffers-fin- gers did the work, but with great dexterity. For making candles a special day was set apart and arranged for pre- viously, the big kitchen prepared by laying boards on the floor to catch drops of tallow, ashes or sand in the center for the big brass kettle full of melted tallow to stand on. Sticks of wood resting on chairs turned down for the rods of candle wicks prepared the night before, were dipped straightened, going back and forth until large enough, then packed in boxes for use. Moulds of tin were utilized for special occasions. An- other use for the big kettle was boiling cider for the winter's apple sauce. As soon as daylight the morning after the new cider was brought home, this kettle was filled with it to be boiled down until the barrel was emptied and nearly half boiled away. The quinces and apples were ready to be cooked and constantly stirred until done. The tub was filled, put in a cool room and kept for ready use. The cur- ing of beef and pork for family use, the lard, sausage and all cared for by good house wives, involved labor and care. People did not live from hand to mouth, but made generous provision for the needs of the household.
The big marsh west of town furnished plenty of cranber- ries, and a great picnic for children was to gather them, with a word now and then, "Look out for snakes," as they scooped them up. With three and four bushels for the day they drove proudly home behind " the old white horse," good at going down hill, but not so ready to go up, and had to be helped at times.
One of the pioneer women raised the first cucumbers in a rotten stump. The first cooked tomatoes seen here was a
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
fine large dish full sent for our dinner by Mr. Ely. They looked so pretty and it was such a neighborly act, but jus- tice to the treat failed to be done. It required time and practice to like tomatoes.
In 1835, having built a house on the corner of Broad street and East avenue, Mr. Beebe rented the tavern to George Prior, brother-in-law of Mr. Ely's, and removed to this home, which has been the homestead, and is still occu- pied by the youngest daughter. In 1847 Mr. Beebe com- pleted the Beebe House at the corner of the park and Main street. At the time of its building no town of the size of Elyria could boast of such a fine substantial hotel, an orna- ment to the town and a credit to the builder, who wished to furnish suitable accommodations for the increasing popula- tion of town and country. It was built and kept as a tem- perance house, so long as owned by the family. Gatherings from town and country were entertained in the large parlors and dining room; also sleigh rides and banquets. The fourth floor was the Odd Fellows' Lodge for years. The dancing hall for private parties made this hotel the center for social life.
The first bank was located on Main street. The postoffice next with stores and offices made it a busy place. The first photograph gallery, by Ryder, was on the second floor on Main street.
In 1818 a post route was established (the first carrier was Mr. Wolverton) between Cleveland and Lower Sandusky (now Fremont). The mail was carried on horseback once a week the first year, then twice a week, and it was considered a great privilege to have mail come even at long intervals. A postoffice was established and Mr. Ely was postmaster, and continued to be for fifteen years, and was succeeded in 1833 by John Matson, a Jackson man. The office was not lucra- tive enough to be sought for, but party spirit wished for the power, even in such a small affair. Commission due post-
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
master, after paying quarterly balance due the government, was between $2.40 and $2.28 the first four years. Envelopes were not known, sheets of foolscap paper were folded, sealed with wafers or sealing wax, and postage twenty-five cents.
In 1826 Mr. Beebe and Ezra Adams, who came from Connecticut, bought out Mr. Wolverton's mail route. The next year Mr. Beebe bought out Mr. Adams and stocked the road as well as possible, In 1827 he went to Washington, and through the influence of Mr. Ely and Mr. Whittlesey, secured the contract for carrying the mail and established a stage line from Cleveland to Fremont via Norwalk, leaving Cleveland at 6 o'clock in the morning. The great difficulty was crossing Cuyahoga river as there was no way except by a rickety old ferry. The route was through the woods to Rocky river, which was very difficult to cross owing to steep banks. The road was called Hog's Back on account of its shape. The first coach was a six passenger, later nine. The first trips made by this stage, with the tooting of the horn announcing its approach, created greater interest than the first railroad train a quarter of a century later. Bad roads and bridgeless streams made transporting passengers and mail dangerous and perplexing when the rivers were high and had to be forded. One serious accident is worth men- tioning here, it entailing great loss upon Mr. Beebe and giving some idea of the courage and pluck necessary to make improvements in a new country. A race course had been dug at Rocky river to convey the water to a saw mill be- low and had to be forded as well as the river. In the flood of 1828, when the driver attempted to cross the race with the coach, the water was so deep that the horses, coach and all were swept into the river. Old Prince, one of the four horses, broke loose and swam ashore. The rest drowned and floated onto an island. The harness was saved, but the coach and buffalo robes floated into the lake and were lost. The mail had been removed before trying to make the ford
CHEAPSIDE IN 1860
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Reminiscences of Elyria.
and was saved and forwarded without much delay. Uncle Sam recognized no hindrances in forwarding the mail. The roads gradually improved by working, opening up to sun- shine and by clearing away the forest. In a few years Mr. Beebe was able to run several sleighs as coaches, for much snow gave good sleighing in the early winters. Merchandise came to Cleveland and Black River by vessels and was hauled to Elyria by wagons. One of our town merchants made the trip to New York, bought and shipped his goods in two weeks, which was a wonderfully quick trip. It took much longer to get the goods to Elyria by canal and Lake Erie, and the hauling by wagons from Black river or Cleveland was a serious matter. This merchant was David Andrews, (father of Burton Andrews and Mrs. Terry) who, with Levi Morse, were dry goods merchants.
The first birth in the township was in a family named Beach, who, in 1816, settled in a shanty two miles west of the village. On the 10th of September, 1817, a son was born, and named Henry. In November Mr. Beach died of malarial fever. Mrs. Beach took her family and her dead husband to Ridgeville and buried him east of the center. She lived in the school house some time and in a few months married Amos Sperry. This marriage was alluded to in biographical rhyme written by the son Henry and published in the Democrat, February 17, 1875.
"It happened the year previous That he lost his beloved wife And wanted a companion Congenial for life.
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