Robinson's Darke County, Ohio rural directory, 1910, Part 45

Author: Robinson Directories, inc
Publication date: 1910
Publisher: Hillsdale, Mich. : Robinson Directories, Inc
Number of Pages: 556


USA > Ohio > Darke County > Robinson's Darke County, Ohio rural directory, 1910 > Part 45


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Glanders.


Glanders, a fatal disease, arises from dirty stables, a specific poison, caus- ing the formation of ulcers in the nose, with a great discharge generally from the left nostril, and a lump firmly attached to the lower jaw. These symp- toms appearing, immediately slaughter the animal. There is no cure, and the disease is very contagious, endangering even man.


Liver Diseases.


Liver diseases, shown by clayey and offensive evacuations are often diffi- cult to detect. The animal appears heavy, sleepy, feverish, poor appetite, tenderness on the off side. The treatment for diseases of the liver is: give one drachm of calomel, one drachm of. opium, and linseed meal to form a ball, every night, with a pint of oil in the morning.


Scratches.


"Scratches" or "Chapped Heels" generally arise from allowing the feet to remain wet over night. The skin over the heel cracks and causes great pain. The best cure is prevention. Do not wash horses' legs; or if you do, wipe them dry. If noticed early, apply glycerine with a soft brush twice a day. Worse cases should be first treated with mild astringents. Scratches, if neglected, are apt to turn into that troublesome disorder termed by horsemen "grease." A filthy discharge sets in from the heel. If this is neglected, a red fungold growth sets in, emitting an unmistakable odor. Grease must be treated as scratches, viz .: With glycerine and a weak solution of chloride of zinc, 30 grains to a pint of water, painted on. When the fungoid growth appears they must be cut off and carbolic acid applied. Build up the system and keep your stables in better order.


Spavin.


Spavin is a bony growth on the inner surface of the hock joint, giving a :stiff motion of the hind leg, and making the animal tread on its toes in


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trotting. Fire and blister early (See remedies below.) If neglected, a spavin, though not materially injuring the animal's usefulness, will destroy his gait.


Sprain of the Back Tendon.


Sprain of the back Tendon just above the hoof, is a common form of lame- ness, attended with much heat and swelling. Cut the hair as closely as possi- ble, then should there be any danger of a blister touching the hoof anoint the hoof with lard. Then rub in blister No. 2, given below, with the hand thor- oughly leaving plenty on the surface. Tie the animal's head well up,, or better still, put on a cradle. Do not bed with straw, as it will cause useless irri- tation to the animal, but put down sawdust, as the pain is apt to cause the animal to stamp his feet. After a week rub a little neatsfoot oil over the place with a feather, to soften it. The animal refuses to walk, trembles, and is soon apt to fall.


Worms No. 1.


Bots are the larvae of a species of gadfly, which find their way into the stomach of the horse while turned out to grass. They are from half an inch to three-quarters in length, of dark red color, somewhat pointed at their end. They attach themselves to the wall of the stomach, and when the time comes will pass away in the faeces. It has been positively ascertained that they do not do no harm whatever to the horse, nor is there any remedy known to veterinarians which will remove them without injury to the animal.


Worms No. 2.


Thread Worm. A much smaller species of worm is found in the rectum. This pest, though not interfering with the condition of the animal as much as the former, causes much more uneasiness. The animal becomes very restive, stamping his hind legs often throwing his heals above his head from the severe itching caused by the thread worm depositing its eggs, which it invariably does, on the delicate skin, immediately outside the rectum. If the anus of a horse afflicted with thread worms be constantly well greased, these eggs will drop off when laid, and the supply of young worms thus being cut off, the disorder will cease. But it is more important to keep grease always applied to the anus, as otherwise the worms, which hatch out in a few hours, will find their way back into the rectum. In addition to this, a strong injection, made from boiling tobacco in water, alternated with linseed oil, will prove efficacious in allaying the irritation.


Worms No. 3.


White worms are found in the small intestines. They are of a pale pink color, about six inches in length, shaped not unlike the earth worm. Symptoms a hidebound, stiff coat, large appetite and poor condition. Considerable mucus is voided, and generally dries round the anus. Several worms pass with the faeces. Give a drachm of tartar emetic in a bran mash every night for a week and then administer a good purgative ball, to be followed by a pint of linseed oil. After which give a drachm of sulphate of iron mixed with the oats once a day for three days. Ordinary vermifuges as sold by veterinarians contain calomel and other preparations of mercury, and are apt to seriously injure the horse.


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General Remedies.


We repeat the caution that the inexperienced should never give strong medicines, or weak ones, except in the most obvious cases.


Aconite .- Ordinary dose 5 to 15 drops in a quart of water.


Ball .- A simple condition ball, or gentle tonic, powdered caraway seeds, 6 drachms; ginger, 2 drachms; with 20 drops of oil cloves, with meal.


Bleeding .- In the roof of the mouth in the second wrinkle behind the front tooth; or if much blood is to be drawn, in the third wrinkle. In bleeding else- where professional advice is necessary.


Blister .- No 1. A strong sweating blister for splints, spavins, ring bone. etc., biniodide of mercury, 1 drachm; lard, 1 ounce. After applying wash with arnica water for several days. No. 2 .- Powdered cantharides 1 part, lard 6 parts.


Calomel, ordinary dose 1 drachm. Carbolic Acid, ordinary dose, 1 tea- spoon one-half pint water. Castor Oil, ordinary dose 3 ounces to a pint.


Chalk Mixtures .- Take of prepared chalk 1 troy ounce, glycerine, 1 fluid ounce; gum arabic, fine powder, 240 grains; cinnamon water, water each 8 fluid ounces. Rub them together till they are thoroughly mixed. Dose, 1 pint.


Drench .- A good cooling drench when horses are in too good condition is: Nitre, 1 ounce Tincture of Digitalis, 2 drachms; sweet spirits of nitre, 2 ounces; Whey, one pint.


Firing .- The application of a hot iron to promote the absorption of a morbid growth. No one should use it before actually witnessing the operation.


Laudanum, ordinary dose, 1 to 3 grains. Large doses of laudanium or opium should not be repeated more than once-in four hours without experienc- ed advice. Nitre, ordinary dose, one-half ounce. Opium, ordinary dose one- half ounce to one and one-half ounce.


Purgatives .- No 1. Mild. Barbadoes aloes, eight drachms; nux vomica, one drachm; carbonate of soda, one drachm, and ginger, three drachms; make it into a ball with honey soap. No. 2. Strong. Barbadoes aloes, three drachms powdered rhubarb, two drachms; ginger, one drachm; and caraway oil, 15 drops, made into a ball.


To Give Liquid Medicine .- Use a clean horn with one end open. To do this properly one person should raise the horse's head high as possible, and another seize the tongue with his left hand, and draw it as far as he can out of the right side of the mouth; then insert the small end of the horn to the root of the tongue, pour in the medicine slowly, releasing the tongue at intervals, to let him swallow. Some horses will swallow a large quantity at once; others seem unable to manage more than a tablespoonful at a time.


Remedies for Hogs


Points for Pork Packers.


Sugar-Cured Hams and Bacon. Place the meat to be cured in a tub or vat, and sprinkle a small quantity of salt over each piece. Let the meat remain two days, and it will then be purged of any blood that may have been left in it.


Then take enough spring water to cover the meat, and for each one hun- dred pounds of meat take three pounds of coarse brown sugar, one-quarter pound saltpeter, and one ounce each of alum and soda. Dissolve these in water, and add enough salt to make a brine strong enough to float an egg; pour this over the meat, which must be weighted with stones to keep it under the pickle ,and let stand for thirty days, when it may be hung up to dry and


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smoked for three of four weeks,according to the degree of smokiness desired. It is said that the Ashland hams, once famous in American markets, were cured in this manner, being smoked for four weeks with green walnut wood. Corn-cobs make an excellent smoke for bacon, but care must be taken not to let the fire get too hot.


For those who prefer to cure their hams and bacon without using brine, the following method is recommended. To cure 150 pounds of meat take twelve pounds of fine salt, two quarts of molasses (Porto Rico preferred), and half a pound of powdered saltpeter. Mix these together until they have about the consistency and appearance of a damp brown sugar. Rub the hams and bacon thoroughly with the mixture, and lay singly on a flat form or table in a cool, dry place. At the end of the first week rub them again in the same manner, and repeat the operation at the end of the second week. Soon after the third rubbing has been done expose the meat continuously to smoke for ten days.


THE RAISING OF SWINE.


Disinfect the Pens. It pays to use a cheap disinfectant in pig-pens. An excellent practice is to scatter a little chlorid of lime through the pen twice a week, while a few pails of whitewash, to which a small quantity of carbolic acid has been added, will materially assist in keeping the place free from vermin.


Wheat Straw for Litter. Some of the best-known and most successful breeders are emphatic in their assertions that wheat straw is the only proper straw to use as bedding for young pigs. This seems to be a small matter, but success is achieved by paying strict attention to things that are commonly re- garded as trifles.


Phosphates Required. If your hogs grow thin in bone, do not blame it all to the breed. Remember that pigs cannot grow bone without the necessary material, any more than they can produce flesh and fat without food. See that your food ration contains plenty of phosphates, and keep salt and ashes within reach of the pigs.


Best Food for Pork-Making. Corn-fed pigs are popularly supposed to make . the best pork, but pork made from pigs that have been fed on peas or beans, or on a mixture of both, is much firmer than that made from corn-fed swine. There is also a special flavor or sweetness about it that cannot be obtained by the use of other kinds of food. Another difference in favor of pork from pea or bean-fed pig is that the fat does not fry out so much in cooking, and this of itself makes it desirable for family use.


VERMIN ON SWINE.


First wash the body with a strong lye of wood ashes or weak saleratus water, then with an infusion of lobelia. Mix a teaspoonful of sulphur, and the same quantity of powdered charcoal, in the food daily. Or procure some leaf tobacco, and boil it to a strong amber in water sufficient to float it. Mix in while hot, sufficient amount of lard or refuse grease to make a thin salve, rub on the pigs or hogs troubled, and in less than twenty-four hours, if the oint- ment is thoroughly applied, they will not have a single louse on them.


CHOLERA IN SWINE.


Give one pint of turpentine each week to fifteen hogs, or in the same proportion to a lesser number, mixing it with slops.


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BLIND STAGGERS IN PIGS.


Give half an ounce of Rochelle Salts, in a pint of thoroughwort tea. If the bowels are not moved in the course of twelve hours, repeat the dose. A light diet for a few days will generally complete the cure.


Remedies for Cattle


DIARRHOEA IN CATTLE.


For diarrhoea or Purging in Cattle administer the following, three quarters of a pound of Epsom Salts and the usual amount of Ginger. The next day after giving the above it might be well to use the following astringent. Take Prepared Chalk, two ounces; powdered oak bark, one ounce; powdered catechu, one-half ounce; powdered opium, two scruples; powdered ginger, two drachms. Mix all together and give in a quart on warm gruel.


COUGH AND COLD IN CATTLE.


A simple cold, attended by slight cough and discharge from the nostrils, is easily removed. Warm housing, a few mashes, and the cough and fever will usually succeed. Use the following formula: Tartar Emetic one drachm, Powdered Digitallis, one-half drachm; Nitre, three drachms. Mix all together and give in a quart of tolerably thick greul.


SORE MOUTH IN CATTLE.


Take a weak solution of Carbolic Acid, say one to five drops to the ounce of water, washing the mouth every few hours, allowing a little to be swallowed, and then following this with mild tonics and food that will notirritate the mouth.


LOSS OF CUD IN CATTLE.


Loss of cud in cattle is a species of indigestion and may be brought on by the animal's eating greedily of some food to which it is unaccustomed. Loss of water. Should any considerable degree of fever accompany the soreness of the loss of Cud.


Golden Seal, powdered, one ounce; powdered caraway, two ounces; cream of tartar, one-half ounce. Mix. Divide into six powders and give one every fours hours in a sufficient quantity of Camomile tea.


SORE TEATS.


Take Elder Ointment, six ounces; Beeswax, two ounces, mix these .to- gether and add an ounce each of sugar of lead and alum in fine powder. Stir them well together until cold. A little of this should be rubbed on the teats morning and night after milking, and if the flies tease the animal much a small quantity of aloes or assafoetida may be mixed with the ointment. The latter is more effectual but the odor is very unpleasant.


MILK FEVER IN COWS.


The principal expectation for relief from this malady, must be placed on the giving of a strong Purgative drink as the following: Epsom or Glauber salts twelve ounces, flour of Sulphur, four ounces; powdered ginger, four drachms; spirits of Nitrous Ether, one ounce. All this to be dissolved in warm water and given as a drink.


One-half of this draught may be repeated twice a day until the bowels are properly opened. In the severer affection it will be necessary to add from


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ten to twenty drops of Croton oil to the first draught. It is of importance to administer the draught slowly and carefully and when the cow is in any way unconscious it will be better to give by the means of syringe, placing the tube far enough into the neck to prevent any of the medicine from entering the windpipe.


HOW TO DRY THE MILK IN CATTLE.


A good dose of Physic, followed by a mild astringent drink will usually settle the business. Allum in the form of whey as shown by the prescription given herewith, will be the most effectual as well as the safest astringent. Six teaspoonfuls will be the medium dose; alum one-half ounce; water, two quarts. Boil together for 10 minutes and strain. The cow should be milked dry when the astringent is given and turned on some dry upland pasture. Twa days after she should be examined, and if the udder is not overloaded, nor hard, nor hot, the milking may be discontinued; but if the udder is hard and fuil, she should be brought home, cleanly milked and another astringent drink given. The third drink, if it is necessary to give one, should be an apparent and after that the diuretic drink as follows: every second day. Powdered Nitre, one ounce; powdered resin, two ounces; ginger, two drachms, mix them well to- gether and give them in a warm gruel. Milking should only be resorted to if the state of the udder absolutely requires it, for every act of milking only en- courages the secretion of milk.


A GOOD PHYSIC FOR CATTLE.


It is very often found very necessary to have a good formula for purging your cattle at hand as it is very often the only means that will save the animal, especially in cases of cotiveness or inflammation of the bowels. We recommend the following drink to be first used: Epsom Salts, one pound and caraway seed powdered, one-half ounce dissolved in a quart of warm gruel and give.


CANKER IN THE MOUTH OF CALVES.


The first thing to do is to evacuate the bowels. Epsom salts should be used for this purpose, given in doses of one or two ounces, and repeated daily until the proper effect is produced. As a local application, equal parts of tincture of Myrrh and water may be advantageously used by applying to the mouth, or a solution of common alum in water in the proportion of half an ounce to a pint of water. Should any considerable degree of fever accompany the soreness of the mouth, the fever drink already recommended may be given in half doses, with a scruple of magnesia added to each dose. The fever drink is the one used in the cure of coughs and cold.


Remedies for Sheep


COSTIVENESS IN LAMBS.


Epsom salts, two ounces; powdered caraway seed, one-quarter of an ounce. Mix in warm thin gruel sufficient to dissolve the salts. This will be the best thing that can be given, and it should be repeated every sixth hour until the desired effect is produced. The lamb should be turned into greener and more succulent pasture, and especially where there is any fresh flush of grass. If he refuses after a while to eat, he may be drenched with gruel, in which a little epsom salts should always be dissolved. While this affords nutriment, it will cool the animal and open the bowels.


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SORE NIPPLES IN SHEEP.


Lambs often die of hunger, from their dams refusing them suck. The cause of this sore nipples, or some tumor in the udder, in which violent pain is excited by the tugging of the lamb. Washing with poplar bark, or anointing the teats with powdered borax and honey, will generally effect a cure.


Hints to Poultry Raisers


PRESERVING EGGS IN SALT.


Cover the bottom of a keg, cask, jar or hogshead, or any other receptacle you choose to pack in, with a layer of fine salt two inches deep. Upon this place the eggs, small end down, and far enough apart so that they will not touch each other or the sides of the receptacle; then put on another two-inch layer of salt, then another layer of eggs, and so on until the package is full. This is, probably the best method for housekeepers and for those who have only a small number to pack for market. The salt can be used over and over again.


TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR HOME USE.


The following recipe is given for keeping eggs not intended for market. Put them in an open-work basket or colander and immerse them for a moment in boiling water; let them stay just long enough to form a film on the inside of the shell; this excludes the air. Then place them, in some convenient vessel, small end down, and set them in the coolest part of the cellar, where they will keep until wanted for use.


SPIRIT-VARNISH.


For preserving eggs is made by dissolving gum shellac in enough alcohol to make a thin varnish. Coat each egg with this, and pack, little end down, so that they cannot move, in bran, sawdust or sand-the sand is best; whatever is used for packing should be clean and dry.


TO TEST THE FRESHNESS OF EGGS.


Looking through a paper tube directed toward the light an egg held at the end of the tube will appear translucent if fresh; but if stale it will appear dark, almost opaque. Eggs are frequently tested in a somewhat similar manner with- out using a tube. The method is to grasp the egg to be tested closely in the hand and hold it between the eye and a lighted candle or lamp. In a dark room this test is sufficiently effective for ordinary purposes.


At the Birmingham (England) Poultry Show, held several years ago, prizes were offered for the best dozen preserved eggs that had been kept two months. The eggs were tested by breaking one of each set competing for the prize into a clean saucer, and also by boiling one of each lot.


It was found on breaking the eggs preserved in lime-water that they presented cloudy whites. Eggs preserved by rubbing over with beeswax and oil showed thin, watery whites.


Eggs that stood the test of boiling and which gained the first prize ahd been simply packed in common salt. They had lost little, if any by evapora- tion, had good, consistent albumen, and were pleasant to the taste. The exhibit which took second prize was treated as follows: Melt one part of white wax to two parts of spermaceti, boil and mix thoroughly. Take new-laid eggs, rub with antiseptic salt and fine rice starch. Wrap each egg in fine tissue paper putting the broad end downward; screw the paper tightly at the top, leaving an. inch to hold it by. Dip each egg rapidly into the fat heated to 100 degrees


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DARKE COUNTY DIRECTORY


withdraw and leave to cool. Pack board end downward in dry, white sand or sawdust. The judges were inclined to believe that had the trial been for a longer period than two months, the latter method would perhaps have proven the better of the two. The eggs were excellent, and on stripping off the waxed paper the shells presented the clean, fresh appearance of newly laid eggs


GAPS IN POULTRY.


Shut the chicken in a box, with some shavings dipped in spirits of turpen- tine and the vapor arising from the extended surface produces in most cases a permanent cure. Creosote used in the same manner has also been found very afficatious.


ROUP IN POULTRY.


As soon as discovered, if in warm weather, remove the affected ones to some well ventilated apartments, or yard; then give a dessert spoonful of cas- tor oil; wash their heads with warm castile soapsuds and let them remain until the next morning fasting. Scald for them some Indian meal, adding two and one-half ounces of Epsom salts for ten hens or in the same proportion for a lesser or larger number; give it warm, and repeat the dose in a day or two if they do not recover.


LICE IN POULTRY.


Hens while hatching are very apt to become infested with lice, so much so that they are often driven from the nest. We have known the eggs to be covered and the nest alive with them. In such cases we would recommend re- moving the litter and eggs, cleansing the nest with boiling water. Then line the nest with tobacco stems.


HOW TO MAKE HENS LAY IN THE WINTER.


Give a portion of minced meat mixed with their other food every day or as often as convenient and see that they have plenty of gravel, old plastering or powdered egg shells. The latter may be mixed with their food. Without some substance of this kind, which can not be obtained when the ground is frozen or covered with snow, there will be nothing to form a shell.


REMEDY FOR CHICKEN CHOLERA.


Good rules for success in the management of fowls:


1. Good dry houses, well ventilated, but avoiding drafts.


2. Keep your hen houses clean and the floor covered with ashes.


3. Whitewash inside monthly from March first to October first.


4. Feed regularly, but never overfeed; cease feeding when the fowls cease to run for it.


5. Scatter the food on the ground when the weather will permit.


6. Feed mixed grain or alternate, as corn one day, oats the next, wheat the next, etc.


7. Allow adult fowls freedom in the morning as early as they desire.


8. Keep hens with chicks in small coops (well covered and dry), until the chicks are three weeks old.


9. Feed chicks morning, noon and late afternoon; cooked feed morning and grain as corn, cracked wheat, etc., noon and afternoon.


10. Mix ground black pepper with the morning food for chicks twice a week, one tablespoonful of pepper for every twenty chicks.


11. Grease the hen well under the wings, breast and fluff feathers as soon


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as the chicks are taken off with ointment made of lard and carbolic acid; ten drops of acid to two teaspoonfuls of lard.


In addition to the above the following recipe is a good cure for the cholera. Alum, two ounces, resin, two ounces; copperas, two ounces; lac sulphur, two ounces; cayenne pepper, two ounces. Pulverize, then mix three tablespoonfuls of the powder with one quart of corn meal and dampen for use. This quantity is sufficient for twelve fowls, and may be used either as a preventative or a cure. For the first it should be given once or twice a week.


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