USA > Ohio > The Western Reserve of Ohio and some of its pioneers, places and women's clubs, Vol. I > Part 23
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31
8
GLADSTONE'S CHURCH AT HAWARDEN
MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS, HOLYROOD CASTLE, EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
2
ABBOTTSFORD
The home of Walter Scott nestles in the hills, not showing itself until one is at the very gate. Other fine residences are on different knolls not far away, and are seen from a distance. After going down the driveway we ascended some steps and were at the front door, which opens upon a beautiful lawn with flowers of various hues in small oval or crescent-shaped beds. (We were in England at the time of rose blossoms and yellow calcolaria.) The room into which the front door opens is oblong, perhaps twelve by twenty feet. In it is a large mantel, upon which are three skulls. One is that of Robert Bruce, a head with a wonderful development of the posterior portion and larger than the others, which are those of men of less note. On a table is a marble bust of Wordsworth, which shows a long oval face, narrow at the chin and in an exceedingly pensive and contemplative mood.
We passed on into the library, where, in the center of the room, was the chair Sir Walter Scott occupied while writing, and which stood before his table. From this room we entered another and larger library room, the whole containing many thousand volumes. In this room is the original bust of Scott, in marble, from which all others have been cast. In the alcove of a bay window looking out on adjacent hills, stood a circular table, and under a glass upon it were various presents that had been given to the author. A gold snuff box, portraits of Mrs. Scott, upon ivory, and locks of hair of Napoleon and Welling- ton were among the articles. Their arrangement was by Sir Walter himself.
336
The Western Reserve of Ohio and Some of
In the next room visited were many portraits, one being of Scott's mother, whom he greatly resembles, and of whom an amusing story is told. It is said that when Sir Walter's father was a young man, his father placed a pair of spurs on the break- fast meat-platter and said: "You must provide meat for our table." In the effort to win his spurs, the son resorted to steal- ing some sheep, and being caught in the act, was arrested, but was promised release if he would marry the owner's daughter. Young Scott asked to see her, but her mouth was so large, he said he preferred to go to jail. When there, however, the young lady's visits were frequent and kind, and he finally concluded she should be his wife. In the feature of the mouth, particularly, Sir Walter greatly resembles his mother.
Full length portraits of Scott's two daughters show them dressed in Highland costume. There is also a portrait of Mrs. Maxwell Scott, the grand-daughter who preserves Abbottsford so perfectly, but who was on the continent at the time of our visit. The portrait is of life size and represents Mrs. Scott seated in a chair and dressed in white satin, with an abundance of rich white lace on waist and skirt. She has an oval face with rather a sharp nose, but regular features and a pleasing, refined expression. Sir Walter's portrait is above a mantel- piece, and next to it is that of his wife, who was a Miss Car- penter. The latter was painted in the younger days of the original and represents her with dark hair and eyes.
On another side of the same room hung a life size portrait of Oliver Cromwell. He resembles a clergyman of the old school, with high, receding forehead, long, straight nose, hatchet-face, flushed with color, and sharp eyes with a far-away look in them, as though he might be contemplating what ought to and could be accomplished for the cause of God and humanity. The con-
337
Its Pioneers, Places and Women's Clubs
vents so corrupt, his look says, must be razed; the places where ambitious youths were being destroyed by unscrupulous monks, must be torn down, and their paraphernalia burned. We had but just come from Muckross Abbey and Inverness and Ross castles, in Ireland, where we had seen how complete the destruc- tion had been. Thomas Cromwell, his uncle, plainly shows that that this man was used to accomplish God's designs. It was an inspiration to look at his portrait, and gave rise to the hope that another such man would be raised up in the 20th century to at- tack our breweries and distilleries in the same way. No money can rebuild the human wrecks they make, the slaves to appetite they create. And their victims would help in their destruction; for, as a former Cleveland, Ohio, judge said when he voted the Prohibition ticket, "Would you not crush the serpent that bites you?" In another room, very like an armory, were the two pistols of Napoleon, taken at the battle of Waterloo, and over the doorway was a bas-relief of Scott.
CHESTER CATHEDRAL, LONDON MUSEUM, NATIONAL ART GALLERY
We crowded into our vehicles, adjusted our umbrellas to shield us from the drippings of a heavy thunder shower that was on and proceeded to Melrose Abbey. The heart of Robert Bruce is buried here, that having been his wish. Melrose was once restored by Bruce, and was, consequently, dear to him. The carved window frames of stone are still intact; indeed, it is said that the stone out of which they are made is the hardest known. We went to a Melrose hotel for lunch, which was well prepared and bountiful. Strawberries, which were large and sweet, were served in their hulls.
A short walk brought us to the train. We entered a build- ing, went up a flight of stairs and were on a platform close to the cars. These cars have two compartments; one of seats for four, opposite each other, and a smaller one with seats for one on each side of the doors. Our large company was thus divided into half dozens, and became well acquainted by the interchange of opinions, books and photographs.
Chester, which we reached at eight o'clock, is on the border of Wales, only one mile from the River Dee, which separates the two countries. It has the oldest cathedral in Great Britain, and a stone wall a mile and three-quarters in length, in a good state of preservation, still partly encircles the town. The old castle of the place, Derby, is now used as a barracks, and a street lined with two-story shops is called "The Row." The upper stories of the shops have a porch upon which the stores open, making a business place above, and one below. In some
C
CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (EXTERIOR)
INTERIOR OF CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL
5
339
Its Pioneers, Places and Women's Clubs
instances the upper story projects over the sidewalk, giving a good view up and down the street. A large clock hung in the middle of the street, as we often see electric lights in America.
Sunday we went to Gladstone's church, at Hawarden, eight miles distant. Two omnibusses, each with three horses abreast, were filled with members of our party. The road was through Hough Green, a resident street of new, two-story, brick houses, with small yards filled with flower-beds and pebbled walks. We passed by trees of beech, maple and oak, and then through acres of pasture and grain lands to Broughton, the station where Gladstone took the cars for London; then past the Home For Indigent Poor, built by him, and then onto his estate. This estate was the dower of Mrs. Gladstone, who was a Miss Gwinne. In Hawarden village is a stone fountain, erected at the time of Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone's golden wedding, on one side of which is the bust of the great premier, and on the other that of his wife. Above the fountain is the inscription: "Drink ye the water." The fountain is arranged to accommodate both man and beast.
The cathedral stands at the end of a lane, and is substantial looking. The services had begun, and a boy choir was chanting the responses. Stephen Gladstone, the rector, who is the son of the premier, was not present, but his assistant gave the sermon. It began thus: "Life, what is it? Science does not tell us what it is. Life is a mystery. The spirit returns to God who gave it. God calls it to enjoy His presence forever. But how is this to be gained? Not by wishing or praying, it must be by action. The woman spoken of in my text did more; she went to Christ, touched his garment, and was healed. There is a truth for us, we must ourselves draw near." The congregation was large and the collection plates well filled. The same evening we attended
340
The Western Reserve of Ohio and Some of
a concert of Mendelsohn's "Hymns of Praise," in the old cathe- dral of Chester. Every seat was filled and many were obliged to stand, although the cathedral seats three thousand. This was the first rehearsal of a festival lasting three days. The noted brass bands of Lancaster and the unequaled voices of York were trained by the organist, Mr. Bridges, whose brother is organist at Westminster Abbey. A lady lent us the use of the score, which we closely followed. The music was grand, yet smooth and sweet in its cadences. The great organ was used at the opening, and the vaulted roof and great space gave a volume of sound seldom heard. The lady previously spoken of had been a member of the cathedral choir for twenty-five years, and she told us that Archbishop Pearson, whose monument stood on one side of the aisle, had published many books, and had revised the creed of the Episcopal church. The revised creed, she said, was used in America, and Dean Howson had collected much money in our country with which to repair the Chester Cathedral. The Duke of Westminster had, she said, left a legacy for the same purpose.
THE LONDON MUSEUM
The London Museum, which is on Brompton Road, is a large, new building, with room for many more exhibits than it now has. As one enters, the statue of Thomas Henry Huxley, attracts the notice, the heavy eyebrows, prominent, indented chin and general appearance indicating a man of power. He was born in 1825 and died in 1895. At the entrance to the sec- ond gallery is the statue of Charles Darwin in a sitting posture. He, also, has heavy eyebrows, which hang over eyes that seem to recede into his head. He has a long beard and a wrinkled forehead, but withal a pleasing expression. Both of these gentlemen seem to greet the visitor, with their eyes, in a friendly way.
The large trees of California are represented by a section ninety feet in circumference, cut from a tree at a height of eighteen feet from the ground. Near a sign reading, "Adapta- tion of external covering to the conditions of life," were birds of the color of the yellow sand in which they were rollicking; a group of white birds and rabbits on white, chalky ground, and speckled birds on speckled ground. The remains of masto- dons and many other prehistoric animals are in the wing to the left, and it would seem that at least inland waters must have been deeper and broader than now to have given room for such monsters to bathe or live in. And yet they were all made to master the conditions in which they were placed.
On the second floor were animals of the present day. Im- mense giraffes, that could browse on the leaves of tall trees, but must spread their fore legs apart to graze or drink. There
342
The Western Reserve of Ohio and Some of
were Indian buffaloes with horns peculiarly broad at the base and hair coming down on the forehead and parted in the mid- dle, suggesting that they might have set the fashion for some women. There were also Japanese, Thibetan and polar bears and sloths and weasels.
In the exhibit of marble, there was the rare Persian blue marble. There was Deccan Indian foliage, in agate; cats-eye quartz and quartz from South Africa with stripes like a gold and black ribbon. Humming birds with bills that would reach into flower tubes six inches long, were among the rare sights. In fishes, there were the red finned king fish, the jelly fiish, the sea anemone, the squid and other curiosities.
Children of all ages and sizes were running through the halls of the museum and examining all the exhibits. There seemed to be no obstacles placed in the way of English children in gaining definite ideas in natural history and the classification of animals.
In the Albert Memorial, near Hyde Park, beside the groups at the corners representing Europe, Asia, Africa and America, there is, below the statue, which is in gold, a frieze of Homer playing the harp, while in a listening attitude are, Dante, Virgil, Cervantes, Molliere, Corneille, Ambrose, Guido, Rosini, Shakespeare, Milton, Goethe, Schiller, Bach, Handel, Mozart, Hayden, Bartholomew, Tullis, Purcell, Auber, Necker, Rosseau, Sully and others.
NATIONAL ART GALLERY
As we entered the Art Gallery a heavy shower occurred and lightning flashed over the windows in the ceiling. The artists ceased work, and the dark clouds made it difficult to see any but the brightest of the paintings. In the first gallery, on the left, is a portrait of Hogarth, near to one of his sister and many others he had painted. His ruddy cheeks and large, round face gave him a youthful appearance. In the next room was a portrait of Gilbert Stewart, who might have passed for a younger brother of George Washington, and who made the picture of him, which is so universally admired. It was an idealized likeness, no doubt. Near the portrait of Stewart is that of Mrs. Siddons, which has been duplicated many times by artists. The youthful Christ embracing St. John, by Guido, was particularly attractive, from the fair, open countenance, regular features, light hair, oval face and modern appearance of Jesus, and the ruddy cheeks and natural look of St. John. Both appeared young and looked as though they might step from the canvas.
One of the visiting artists had painted a copy of two little pug dogs so knowing looking and so bright in contrast of color as to make it as pretty as anything in sight. Landseer's Sleep- ing Bloodhound and a canine head by him were strikingly life- like. Near these were Constable's landscapes, "The Hay Field," "The Valley" and "The Hay Wagon." They were dark with age, but exceedingly full of interest. Murillo's "Drinking Cup" shows a boy with a bottle of wine in one hand and a
344
The Western Reserve of Ohio and Some of
tumbler half full in the other, looking up at us from the canvas. It seems a pity to immortalize a custom that tends to so much misery. The habit of using intoxicants is begun early in Lon- don, the absence of cool water and the usual table drinks used in America making it natural to resort to wine, beer or ale. The day of our visit to the art, gallery was the first time we had been informed that we could have tea and coffee at all meals without extra charge.
We passed on to the room which has a copy of the picture of the "Infant Jesus" by Salvator Rosa. The portrait has a dark green background, and Jesus is represented as a bright little boy looking intently at his mother. There is the plumpness of childish limbs, with dimples in the knees. The artist has repre- sented only the boy-not the Christ, and if the picture graced the walls of a private residence it might easily be taken as that of a household pet. "History in canvas" may be the rea- son given for the existence of such paintings-or was it need of the money paid by the church to the artists? The collection of Turner occupied one large room, and some were being copied by different artists. This exhibition was fascinating, but seemed hardly of this world. There was a blinding effect of color that rendered outlines indistinct and made it impossible to view the pictures with pleasure, except at a distance. We did not need Ruskin to tell us of their worth, yet, no doubt, without his commendation they would not be estimated as highly as they are. There were portraits by Joshua Reynolds, and a very fine one of Gladstone.
GUILFORD, KENILWORTH CASTLE, WARWICK CASTLE. GUILFORD
Being a descendent of John Parmlin, now called Parmly, who joined the persecuted Huguenots in the Island of Guernsey and afterwards went to Guilford, England, and wishing to ob- tain some information regarding his son, John Parmlin, Jr., who came with the colony from Guilford to New Haven, Con- necticut, early in the 17th century, I secured a pleasant travel- ing companion, in Miss Mabel Russell, and started from Lon- don, at Waterloo station, the ride to Guilford being one of only two hours. On arriving, we went first to St. Mary's Church, which is a very old but well-preserved structure, cruciform in shape and with a square tower. The ceiling was high and the windows were of stained glass. On the walls were several brass tablets with inscriptions in black letters. One read: "To the glory of God and the loving memory of Zeb. Few, for years rector of this parish, died Sept. 18, 1879." Another was to "Mary Knowles, daughter of John and Mary Allen, aet 16 yrs. 1741." There was also one to "Philip Lovejoy," and one to "Harriet Lockwood."
We left the church, crossed a bridge and went up a street lined with stores and shops. A sign on a hotel read: "Pot of tea, roll and butter, 4d." In a book store we bought views of the place, and the lady in charge pointed the way to the old castle of the town, which was in a well kept park. The four gray walls were about forty feet high and in a fair state of preservation.
As we returned toward the railroad station a lady pointed out St. Nichol's Church, which is still older than St. Mary's. We entered a gateway and followed a diagonal path leading past numerous upright slabs (they are usually laid flat) to the door, which we opened by turning a big ring, and found ourselves in a quiet resting place. There were cushions for the knees when in prayer, one lying in front of each chair. There were no pews in these churches.
On the return trip to London I made the acquaintance of Mrs. Algernon Stewart, of Wickworth Hall, Goddenning, Eng- land, and have since had the pleasure of corresponding with her regarding the ancestral line of descent that took me to Guilford.
STRATFORD-ON-AVON
Stratford-on-Avon is a market town in the southwestern part of Warwickshire, not far from London. William Shakes- peare was born in the year of 1564, in a two-story gabled house on Henley street. The room we first entered was a butcher shop of his father John Shakespeare. A large fireplace is on one side, and a wooden staircase leads to the noted birth-room above. The small window panes in this room have many auto- graphs of distinguished visitors, among them those of Sir Wal- ter Scott and Thomas Carlyle. The library, or museum, con- tains many mementoes besides Shakespeare's bust.
To the curator we said, "Whose grave is it, in the church yard, that bears the name of Rose?"
He replied, "My name is Rose," and when I said my hus- band was entertained by the Lord Mayor of London because his name was Rose, he replied, "That was Sir Philip Rose, the great friend of Lord Beaconsfield. It is a very common name in England."
New Place is where Shakespeare came to live in the days of his prosperity. The first tree he planted was a mulberry, and it was cut down by a Rev. Francis Gastnell, because he was so pestered by visitors desiring to see it.
Shakespeare lies buried in Trinity Church, the flagstone over the place bearing this inscription :
"Good friend, for Jesus sake, forbear To dig the dust enclosed heare; Blest be the man who spares these stones And curst be he who moves my bones."
347
Its Pioneers, Places and Women's Clubs
On the wall is the monumental bust by Gerard Johnson modeled from a cast taken after death. The eyes are light hazel and full-orbed, the hair auburn, the chin set, and forehead towering, the whole head being well poised and massive. When twelve years of age he attended, probably, the tournaments given by Earl of Leicester at Kenilworth Castle for Queen Elizabeth. At 18 years he married, and two years later went to London because arrested for poaching on a nobleman's pre- serves.
A relative by the name of Green, engaged in Black Friars Theater, got him a situation as call-boy; and Goethe, speaking of him, said: "It is easy to understand the rapid strides with which a superior man reaches the summit in any career into which he has once obtained admission."
He went to London in 1584, and his first work appeared in 1590. It is thought he spent his time on works that were not his own, as one of the actors called him "An upstart crow beautified with our feathers," His manuscript contained scarcely an erasure.
At that time dramatic representations were the favorite amusements of the most distinguished men, and dramatic poetry was numbered among the national pleasures; so Shakespeare made his plays the acts of kings and courtiers, where human life was made to pass in review as a brilliant reflection of the real. Four years after obtaining Black Friars Theater he returned to Stratford and became a religious man. In two years he died, of what disease is not known. It is said he never bestowed much labor on either his work or his glory, and was vexed but little with a craving after success, being more inclined to doubt its value.
OXFORD
Oxford is a city associated with great names. John Wick- liffe here taught and thought, sowing the seeds that produced the Reformation. The first printing press in England was es- tablished here in 1468. The London Gazette, the oldest English newspaper, was established here in 1665. Latimer and Ridly were here burned at the stake. Erasmus studied at St. Mary's College; Jeremy Taylor at All Souls; John Wesley at Christ- church; Dr. Johnson and Whitfield were Pembroke men, and Henry V, Edward the Black Prince, and Edward VII each studied in one of the twenty-six colleges. A university library was first begun by arranging some chests in a room over the vaulted chamber east of the Tower of St. Mary's, in 1327. The present building was begun in 1445. Edward VI burned the books having a tendency to Romanism, and in 1597 Sir L. Bod- ley, of Merton College, refounded the library and named it the Bodleion; being persuaded he could not busy himself to any better purpose than by converting the place to the public use of students. It has 470,000 books and 26,000 manuscripts. A picture gallery contains a collection of portraits of university benefactors. A card says, "Touch what you like with your eyes, but do not see with your fingers."
We were in Christchurch dining hall, and looked with pleasure at two portraits done by Herkomer, father of a Cleve- land artist. We passed through the broad walk lined with oak trees of great growth, saw the old school tower, the cloisters of the new college, and Addison's walk, and rode through High street to the Isis, where are many yachts of the students that are in the regattas on the Thames.
KENILWORTH CASTLE
Kenilworth took its name from Kenelph, a Saxon King of Mercia. Henry I, son of William the Conqueror, granted the estate to his chamberlain, Geoffrey de Clinton, in 1115, and in 1120 Clinton built the keep and kitchen, the outer defences and moats, and the priory of St. Augustine. Henry II of Anjou and Normandy, in 1154, ordered all castles destroyed, but seized this castle and garrisoned it against his rebellious sons Henry and Richard, and held it for eight years. In 1175 Geof- frey de Clinton the younger had possession and built Lumm's tower and a great hall and chapel. In 1181 Henry II again seized the castle, but died in Normandy in 1189, Richard the Lion Hearted succeeding him. Henry, grandson of the founder, relinquished his right to the castle to King John in 1200, but had built the Swan tower, water tower, Mortimer's tower, gallery tower, tilt yard and bridges. Pope Adrian V resided in the castle in 1238.
In 1254, Henry III granted a lease of Kenilworth to Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and his wife Eleanor, who was a sister of the King, for their lives; yet two years later, during the "war of the barons," he besieged it. He was repulsed, how- ever, and in 1264, after the battle of Lewes, he, with his brother Richard of Cornwall, and Robert Bruce were imprisoned in the castle by Sir Simon de Montfort. At the battle of Eversham, de Montfort was slain and his possessions confiscated to the king. The Pope's legate advised a parliament to be held at Kenilworth, and by common consent the bishops of six dioceses were empowered to choose six others and "do what was best
350
The Western Reserve of Ohio and Some of
for the peace and security of the land." Their decision was that those in open rebellion should have the privilege "to re- deem their estates by pecuniary fines." This decision is called "The dictum de Kenilworth."
Two Knight Templars were imprisoned in the castle in 1307, and their shields are still seen cut in the stone of their prison. The deepest dungeon of the keep at Kenilworth held Edward II while his resignation of the crown in favor of his son, Edward III, was wrung from him; and Roger Mortimer revelled in the castle halls while his sovereign languished in its dun- geons. In 1446 Eleanor Cobham, the "lively but unlucky Duchess of Gloucester," was imprisoned at Kenilworth, and about 1520 Henry VIII built his state apartments there.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.