USA > Pennsylvania > Lancaster County > Lancaster > The story of Lancaster, old and new : being a narrative history of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, form 1730 to the centennial year 1918 > Part 5
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And since it is not possible to take the reader back in the flesh to past Revolutionary times, in closing this chapter, let the writer quote what a traveler had to say of the town of "Old Lancaster" along about the time already referred to.
"When I was a boy, at the quiet corner of North Queen and Chestnut there lived a few old-fashioned German families making a living by the closest economy. Since then, new houses have started up, and old ones have been altered and dressed anew. Among the improvements are the handsome buildings around center square, in place of the one-story houses with which the corners were occupied."
And here the chronicler can only imagine what he would have to say could he stand in the "Square" on a Saturday evening of to-day, amid the myriads of electric lights with no court house in sight. But instead, the Soldiers' Monument, trolley-cars and automobiles! But to continue the reminiscences:
"Walking along Orange street, I cannot help but contrast its present appearance with what it was in my boyhood. At the time it was little more than a wide lane, with a half dozen houses, nearly all of
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which are yet standing. The peaceable and retired- looking mansion with the willow-tree in front, at present inhabited by the widow of Judge Franklin, I remember it as a commission store, where trade was carried on with a few Indians still in the neigh- borhood, and also with those from a greater distance, who exchanged their furs and peltries for beads, blankets and cutlery-with rum, always on sale,"- no doubt fresh from the Gibson still. But to con- tinue:
"The house in which the North American hotel is kept [now the Brunswick] was occupied by the Land Commissioner a few years later. I recall the forest trees standing on East King street, nearly as far out as McConigle's tavern. What is now called Adams-street, then Adamstown, was the most thickly inhabited place about. It was a village unconnected with Lancaster. The two-story brick house, now owned by Mr. Donnely, was used as a hospital for the sick and wounded soldiers of the Revolution, and numbers lie buried in the lot on which it stands. What is now the old storehouse was then the new college, at which I was placed by way of making me a 'gentleman.'
"Annually during fair weeks, June and September, you could hardly see the streets for the stables and booths, covered with merchandise and trinkets of every kind. There were silks, laces and jewelry, calicoes, gingerbread, such as the ladies love; and that was the time they got plenty of them, too, for the young fellows used to hoard up their pocket- money for months to spend at the fairs; and no girl
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felt ashamed to be treated to a 'fairing' even by a lad she had never seen before. This was the first step toward expressing admiration, and she who got the most of the fairings was considered the belle.
"Then the corners of the streets were taken up with mountebanks, rope-dances, and all the latest amusements. To see these, each young man took the girl that pleased him the most, or, if he had a capacious heart, he sometimes took a half dozen. There were also the dances-the crowning pleasure of all. In every tavern was to be heard the sound of the fiddle," and, as the chronicler may add, with no ministerial committee in evidence.
"The most remarkable," continues the traveler, "is the Episcopal church which occupies the place of the venerable and time-worn edifice that I re- member. It was built under a charter granted by George II, and never had been entirely finished. As I am informed so great was its age and infirmities, the congregation were obliged to have it taken down to prevent its tumbling at their ears. I shall never forget the last time I sat in it. Every thing about the antique and sacred structure made an im- pression on my mind not easily to be effaced. Even the old sexton, John Webster, a colored man, and his wife, Dinah, rustled past in her old-fashioned silks with white sleeves, apron and 'kerchief.' Another remarkable character was old Mr. Pall with his glass-head cane, bent figure and hoary locks. This patriarch was never absent from the broken pew in the corner except when prevented from sickness in attending service.
6
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"The second 'antique and sacred structure' was erected about 1744 of stone, partly at least when, in 1761, the people by way of lottery, raised a con- siderable sum of money with which they afterwards built a steeple, erected galleries, bought a bell and finished a stone wall round the church yard. In 1765 the vestry resolved that the minister should be entitled to a surplice fee of five shillings for every grave dug in the church yard." No mention is made by the writer of the foregoing of how many patriarchs were willing to add to the minister's fees in like manner. However, as at the time the member- ship was not as large as it is today, there was no room for envy over the Rector's getting rich in digging graves.
During the year 1820 the edifice, as the chronicler knew it during the later forties, was consecrated, and in 1827 came the Rev. Samuel Bowman continuing until his untimely demise, August 3, 1860.
If the chronicler has seen fit to speak at some length of the old brick church, it is for the reason that, as a boy, he sat on a bench on one of the galleries that extended along both sides of the edifice. And a most lovable pastor was the Rev. Samuel Bowman, whose personality has been deeply indentured upon the tablets of our boy-memory.
But apart from Old St. James, since our boyhood greatly improved inwardly and outwardly, there were at least four other churches known to most of the boys of "Old Lancaster," Old Trinity, built as early as 1736, rebuilt in 1785, with its steeple of one hundred and ninety-five feet, and where it yet
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stands beautiful in its symmetrical proportions. But what have become of its chimes as they used to ring out their Christian melodies? Then there was the old stone church presided over by the good Father Keenan who, at the age of ninety, when reminded of his years, said, "Tut, tut, we'll live as long as we can!" And to a good ripe old age he did live, beloved by all.
We can well recall the Moravian church erected about 1742, the Presbyterian church which stood where the new edifice now stands. But of all the old churches few could compare with the First Reformed, dismantled in 1852. It is a pity old churches have to go, but go they must to meet the wants of a capricious public sentiment. No longer are the attendants satisfied to sit on the plain benches without backs. They must have cushion seats with cushion backs. And even with these, the cushion back of an automobile seems to be pre- ferable, even on the Sabbath.
As we close this chapter, the bells of the First Methodist are ringing in our ears, carrying us back to those early days of boyhood when to attend both Sabbath school and church service was a require- ment not to be disobeyed except under penalty.
To close this chapter finally, how fitting are a few lines from an unknown poet, and published in the Lancaster Intelligencer years ago:
Ring on, ye bells of Lancaster! Ring boldly forth! ring full! ring free; Forsaken hopes, long buried joys Come creeping down the past to me. Oh, tuneful bells! Oh, happy bells! Oh, chiming bells of Lancaster!
CHAPTER V
THE INCOMING OF A NEW ERA FOR THE BOROUGH OF LANCASTER
IT is pleasing as well as diverting to review the minutes of the "Corporation Book" during the seventy-six years of the burgomasters' rule. If regret follow, it is because the narrator was not a part of the town's village life at the time it was converted into a borough by the founder, James Hamilton, in 1742. But even could this be shown, the dwellers of this twentieth century would not believe even the date or name contained in any one of the burgesses' bibles!
However, following William Atlee in 1774, came William Bausman, who held the office of chief burgess until 1778, when he was succeeded by Henry Dehuff, with Michael Diffenderfer as burgess. The foregoing well-known names have been handed down from Revolutionary times to find their de- scendants, the Atlees, Bausmans and Diffenderfers, still among the well known of this twentieth century.
Under Chief Burgess William Bausman we find, at the close of the September fair-week, the amount of money received by Stophel Franciscus, treasurer, for the use of the Corporation, 39 pounds, 14 shillings, 3 pence. Out of this gross sum was allowed for building stalls, 8 pounds; poles, 1 pound; to cryer
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for opening the fair, five shillings; two constables for attendance, one pound. The balance, 2 pounds, was the neat little sum accruing to the corporation out of the holding of the fair.
At this meeting "it was ordered that Stans Ferry be warned not to put any more straw or hay on the garret of his dwelling house; and that he remove from before his door certain nusiances; also, that he cut off his posts and lower his pavement three inches as soon as he can get workmen to do it."
It was also ordered that the high constable shall receive yearly three pounds out of the corporation stock for his extraordinary services and trouble which he has had in attending and serving the corporation. A year later, it was ordered that "the three pounds allowed this officer as a yearly salary should not be paid him any longer."
Complaints having been made, it was ordered that "hugsters shall be stationed at certain places in the market, and that they shall sell nothing but eatables whatsoever, and if they offer to sell any kind of merchandise, they shall be under the penalty of forfeiting their license. And, likewise, that they shall pay yearly ten shillings for their standing room."
Passing over pages of the same kind of embargoes of dispensers of every kind of marketable products from which a small pittance could be had in support of the town government, mention shall be made of the center square log court house, erected in 1730 and destroyed by fire in 1781. However, in 1783 the second, a brick structure, was built on the same
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site. As the reader shall learn, at no time from 1742 to 1818 were meetings held by the burgesses in either the log or the brick court house. This may have been owing to the fact that each in turn was under the jurisdiction of the court and for county purposes. However, of this more later.
As history makes mention, before the log court house was destroyed by fire, it was well and favorably known inwardly at least for its historic importance. What helped to make it memorable was the great treaty conference between the governors of Penn- sylvania, Maryland and Virginia and certain of the Indian chiefs in the settlement of grievances which had sprung up among the white settlers and their various tribes.
Again, what continued to make the log court house still better known, occurred on the Fourth of July, 1776, while the Declaration was being read in Independence Hall, Philadelphia. It was then that the Pennsylvania militia was in session in the borough court house, its purpose being to resist the invasion of the British army.
And here is the story of how it came to be de- stroyed in 1781. Quoting from one who knew whereof he wrote: "It had been undergoing some repairs, and as the plasterers were at work, a quan- tity of lime was put on the inside to secure it from the weather. Some supposed the lime had set it afire, others, that the clock-repairer, being negligent, had set it afire. There were still others, that some villain had caused its destruction." However, two years later, in 1783, a second, a brick structure, was built on the site of the old log building.
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As so much has been written concerning this later court house, it will be described by one who was familiar with its interior as well as exterior: "It was quadrangular in shape, two stories high, with four gables, and large bell, surmounted with a steeple in which was placed a good clock with four faces and time-piece, which struck out the hours of day and night.
"There was a door in the center of each front, facing entrance to the four principal streets. The door on the North Queen Street front was never opened, that part being occupied by the Judges' Bench. The west door was opened only when there was a great crowd; the east door was used principally by lawyers and court-officers."
Aside from what has been quoted, what fond memories linger in the mind of the octogenarian chronicler of this same court house so graphically described by one who knew it even better than the writer as a boy in his teens. Well can he recall how the voters of the four wards gathered to cast their ballots, each ward with a separate window, except when a fight occurred, when they would flock to- gether in defending their party rights.
But the narrator is getting ahead of his story: During Revolutionary times few meetings were held, the time of the burgesses being taken up with matters pertaining to the war. This the minutes show: "That meetings had not been adhered to on account of their falling on troublesome times when the majority of Burgesses and assistants could not attend." However at an impromptu meeting in
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1782, "it was unanimously agreed to that, owing to the discord among the prisoners of war, that the brick house on the 'commons' be immediately con- verted into quarters fit for the reception of the sick, who are at once to be placed therein; likewise, that the Continental stables be converted and fitted up into Barracks for the reception of any such troops as may necessarily and promptly require quarters in this place."
The following testimonial of regard was presented to General Hazen, bearing the title of Brigadier General: "Sir: We the Burgesses and Assistants do with the utmost satisfaction return you and your officers our most sincere and warmest thanks for the many distinguished proofs of your regard and atten- tion to them and to the inhabitants. Your generous undertaking in erecting Barracks for the reception of your troops, and others that may hereafter require quarters, and thereby easing the inhabitants, your faithful and steady attention as superintendent of prisoners of war, merits the approbation and thanks of this Corporation. This testimonial is entrusted to Mr. William Parr and John Hobson who will deliver the same to you in person."
Where the barracks stood is not as important as to know the purpose it served during the Revolution. Among the first prisoners who came to Lancaster in 1775 was Major André, who was captured by General Montgomery, in Upper Canada of the same year, and taken, with other officers, to Lan- caster, and where he became an inmate of Caleb Cope's house, standing at the time at the northeast
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corner of Lime and Grant Streets where the Baker mansion now stands. The writer, who wrote a very interesting biographical sketch of Major André and Caleb Cope, states that "Caleb Cope, the elder, was Burgess of Lancaster, Pa., under the British Government, immediately prior to the Revolution. The eldest of the five sons, John, then in his thir- teenth year, received lessons in drawing from Major André; and that the three brothers, John, William and Thomas, had, in after life, vivid recollections of their games of marbles and other juvenile sports with the lively young English officer who was destined to figure so terribly in the after history of this country."
Referring once more to the complimentary letter written by the burgesses it may have grown out of an episode so graphically portrayed in a paper read before the Lancaster County Historical Society by Mr. Frank Diffenderffer.
Only its length precludes its insertion in the author's narrative. This much may be set forth: "The old Barracks was the scene of one of the most exciting episodes of the war of Independence." The prison was surrounded by a stockade of logs and strongly guarded, but, in spite of all precautions, prisoners escaped and found their way back to the British army. It was General Hazen who devised a plan to detect the method of escape. A Captain Lee, a patriotic officer, was selected to carry out the scheme. He disguised himself as a British officer and was thrust into the jail with the others. At the time he could discover nothing, but one night
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while lying awake, the door was opened silently and an old woman came in, touched the nearest sleeping prisoner, who arose; then she approached Lee, looked at him and whispered, "Not the man, but come." This seemed to be the opportunity so long awaited, and he also arose and followed. The woman was alarmed and went out, telling Lee to follow. And he did follow the British prisoners for twelve days, stopping during the day in barns and farm houses of the Tories, where they found food and were cared for. One of the number recognized Lee, who had punished him, and he told the leader who he was. This man attempted to kill Lee, but both were seized and carried before a magistrate by some loyal countrymen. Lee told his tale, but was not believed, and sent to jail. He prevailed on the jailor to carry a note to General Lincoln, who was at the time in Philadelphia, and who almost failed to recognize him in his rags. “L "Lee returned to Lancaster, and was instrumental in arresting and punishing fifteen persons who had aided the prisoners to escape."
What in addition happened in "Old Lancaster" during these exciting times is a story in itself to be found in any one of the histories of the Revolution.
It has already been said that fairs were held twice a year during June and September with the exception of two years. It was at a meeting of the burgesses in 1783 that there came a petition from business men and others to revive the former custom. At last, in conformity to the petitioners' pleadings, "It was resolved, Whereas, the Borough
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hath for several years been deprived of holding fairs on account of an oppressive, but at length a glorious ended war-it is agreed that poles be immediately provided for the setting up of stalls, and the reestab- lishing of former customs of holding fairs to the great advantage of country people and our good inhabitants." And so the custom was reestablished, continuing down to the year 1818 as money-pro- ducers. After the burgesses had handed the borough over to the nine select and fifteen common council- men, fairs were conducted by individual enterprise. With but an occasional exception these annual fall assemblies of city and country people may be con- sidered as coordinate with the founding of the town as far back as the townstead itself. And the only wonder is that some humorist has not written a volume on fairs. At times they have been money- makers, at others money losers, but just how much profit or loss is not usually mentioned by the pro- moters.
Fairs, bless me! in addition to Whitmonday, April first-until they fell out of custom-were to "Old Lancaster" what the modern game of base- ball was only a few years ago to the "bleachers" ready to wend their way to Rossmere on a trolley car to the neglect of more important business. But the circus with its parade of animals, clowns and riders! The first to be recalled was in a lot opposite the Poor House Hill along in the early fifties. At the time, from the corner where stands the Brunswick stood a long row of frame sheds extending to Chris- tian Street and used as eating rooms for the country
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visitors. And where lived the boy who would not run away from school to witness a circus parade? And maybe slip under the circus tent? This habit was not confined to days gone by! In many respects boy-nature never changes. Nor is it confined to the ragtail and bobtail of the town's youngsters. As the chronicler has every reason to know, running away from school to see the elephants has made at least one good judge who, if he were running a show himself, instead of a juvenile court, would let in all the school boys gratis. So, let every school board close the schools for an hour at least on every circus day, and if for no other reason than that even the modern day picture show is an educator of youth.
But to what the minutes of the burgesses have to set forth. There was one example for incoming generations to profit by. If they did not open many of the streets, they usually managed to keep receipts and expenditures evenly balanced at the close of each year without piling up debts for their descend- ants to pay. Of course, at the time of which we write, the town did not extend very far in any direc- tion from the court house except along the four streets, north, south, east and west. And yet it has been written by one who had visited the borough that a certain man who lived a square or two east- ward on King Street would occasionally find his way from the country to the "hub" to learn the news, but more likely to indulge himself in a "swig- ger" that came from the Gibson still; and years before the government had placed an embargo over all distilled spirits. Whether tavernkeeper Gibson
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THE INCOMING OF A NEW ERA
was fined for selling on the Sabbath except to travelers, inmates and others, no mention is made in the Corporation Book. It would have been an act of discourtesy on the part of the burgomasters to disclose secrets that are kept inviolate by council- men down even to the present day.
And here it must not be forgotten that as these custodians were engaged in the building up of the town, what they needed most were strangers to make the wheels of industry go round. And who can doubt that an occasional one coming from Philadelphia did not help leaven the loaf in giving the borough a Saturday evening appearance even without street lights strung along the principal thoroughfares like unto this twentieth century?
During our boyhood there was a game called "Follow Your Leader." This game is still in vogue, not so much among boys as among men of all political parties. We get the cue, and, after getting it, go following our leader, may be for the reason that so few men are capable of leading except in their own particular line of business.
It has been said only too frequently, "Put your best men in office." And into office many have gone, only to find out how little they knew of the science of city government, and how much they had to learn. Possibly before the conclusion of the narrative, the chronicler may find a solution for the difficult problem of better local government.
However, because a man is successful in his own line of business is no guarantee that he has found a cure for his town's numerous ills. If such can be
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found even among the members of the Automobile Club or the Chamber of Commerce, they would be worth their weight in solid gold. Critics each and every generation have had in telling just how this or that should be done at the least possible expense. But when the tax rate is mentioned with the property valuation, and their own likely to be increased, phew, the poor old city! Everybody is ready to give it a fling! And why? Because everybody is part owner !
There is one class in every town or city that cannot well be ignored. It is the laboring element, and who, being without a trade or other means of support, naturally look for employment if not in one way then in another. They constitute an im- portant factor, especially during election time, when their votes are not to be ignored by the political leaders. And after all, it is a blessed thing that employment be given old men who have seen better days.
It is the ballot in this free country that is every man's defensive or offensive, and can be used on the day of election individually or collectively. But results count only when there is concentration, or what may be called consensus of opinion expressed in numbers.
So completely has local government been system- atized as to make the stray voter wonder how it has been accomplished! It is a science known alone to those who have made town government a study. This the average citizen does not do, possibly for the want of time, possibly because he does not care! Then party politics is more binding than
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THE INCOMING OF A NEW ERA
church creeds on the average church member. The minister may preach a sermon of an hour's length the Sabbath before election on what he considers the voter's duty, but when the voter stands before the man with the poll-book-perhaps the parson's own son or other near relative-the political sermon he has to whisper in the voter's ear is the more convincing.
And so, the longer the chronicler struggles to find a solution for the vexed question of better municipal government, the less he is able to suc- ceed. Perhaps, before the volume is completed, the reader may learn something from the action of the burgesses extending down through seventy-six years.
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