USA > Pennsylvania > Franklin County > Waynesboro > Waynesboro : the history of a settlement in the county formerly called Cumberland, but later Franklin, in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, in its beginnings, to its centennial period, and to the close of the present century > Part 8
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The last official census just taken shows the population to be five thousand, three hundred and ninety-six.
CHAPTER 1V. .
1900.
(7)
CHAPTER V.
LOOKING BACKWARD.
REMINISCENCES AND RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PAST.
CHAPTER V.
Uncertainty of Waynesboro's past.
B Y the lapse of time, the passing, under the inexor- able law of nature, of human witnesses, the vague characterof the traditions remaining, and the marked absence of written records-conditions are created which conspire to render the reproduction in detail of the earliest past of Waynesboro a task difficult of accomplishment. There remain, however, insensate witnesses, the un- changeable mountain barrier to the eastward; the monu- mental rocks : the ever-flowing streams ; the sadly curtail- ed, yet ever suggestive, remnants of the forest and the meadow lands, here stretching away in a level plane, and there gently undulating to the rugged sides of the western mountain. These challenge the thoughtful with their throng of associate memories, and command the observer from yon eastern mountain height to find "tongues in the trees, sermons in the stones, books in the babbling brooks," and suggestions of the past in everything.
The investigator of early days who climbed the moun- tain to observe the landscape and locate the pathway of advancing civilization, was not gifted with imagination vivid enough even to faintly forecast the picture of animat- ed beauty which causes the beholder of to-day to stand entranced upon the verge of the mountain crest, or upon one or the other of the artificial vantage points which modern enterprise has made available within the quarter century just passed.
The broad and smiling acres of farm lands ; the well kept roadways, white with the dust of their ballast, belting the valley from mountain to mountain and paralleling the
Looking back- ward.
A picture of the valley.
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
mountains from river to river ; the sinuous streams, wind- CHAPTER V. ing like ribbons of silver through verdant meadows; thie long lines of iron road, along which through the distance the frequent trains are seen creeping to their destination : the towns and villages, where are the homes of many men. clustering like coral islands in an emerald sea.
One hundred and two score years have changed thie character of the whole landscape. and have blotted from its face forever many landmarks which were familiar ob- jects to the eye of the early settlers.
One of the best known localities in the South mountain in the early days, and one which was more frequently visit- ed than any other, not only because it was the natural gateway from the valley to the country lying east and south of the mountain, but also because it was the most accessible of the early vantage points of observation, was "Nicholass's Gap;" sometimes called Nicholson's Gap.
It was the point of convergence of many paths which led from the valley and. later, of the more pretentious roads which were projected with the advance of civiliza- tion.
In the earliest times this mountain pass was by turn a favorite rendezvous for scouting parties of hostile Indians, and an outpost. jealously guarded and sometimes stren- uously defended by the whites. It is a natural depression or "gap" in the mountain, and was an objective point of all engineering enterprises from the time when Mason and Dixon passed through it with their boundary line between Maryland and Pennsylvania down to the time when the turnpike throughi Waynesboro to Baltimore crossed there. and the later periods when the "Tape Worm Rail- way" of Thaddeus Stevens wriggled thitherward and the Western Maryland railroad utilized the pass with all its advantages to bring their line into Pennsylvania.
The observant traveller, one hundred years ago, cross- ing the mountain at Nicholass's Gap, and resting there for
Nicholass's Gap.
Its importance.
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WAYNESBORO.
CHAPTER V.
The outlook.
a survey of the valley, attracted by the promise of the distant view, would scarcely have noticed more than casually the few scattered habitations which then mark- ed the spot where Waynesboro now stands. He would have been attracted rather by the diversified character of the landscape. Where now are cleared meadows, green with cultivation from mountain base to town boundary, then, the oak, the rock pine, the chestnut and the cypress crept down the mountain in thick growth to the very edge of the settler's clearing. Across the valley, as far as the eye could reach, was the green of foliage and undergrowth; in lighter tint, where grew the wild plum with other native fruits, and the luxuriant grass ; in darker shade, where stretched the broad belts of the heavy timber and prominently developed like great swaths mowed by a mighty sickle wielded by some giant hand, were the long vistas which marked the location of the Mason and Dixon line: and the narrower yet still well defined forest walls of the bridle paths and roads through the valley.
Adown the mountain.
Across the valley.
"Barrens."
To the northeastward the keener eye might have de- tected the presence of the low lying patches of prairie land, or "barrens," near the watercourses, a humor of na- ture so infrequently met with in this particular section of the valley as to be scarcely worthy of mention, but more frequently to be found as the bounds of "Lowther Manor" were entered from the southward, and again disappearing as the river bluffs to the eastward were approached.
A beautiful pano- rama.
It was a beautiful panorama. fashioned by hand divine. cast between sentinel mountains and enfossed at either extremity with a broad bosomed river, most fittingly set by the ceaseless purpose of the Almighty for the early protection and the later development of this "garden spot" of the new world.
There is nothing upon which to base the belief that the
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
Wallace family possessed to any greater degree than their neighbors the hardihood and enterprising spirit which are inseparable from the character of the successful Ameri- can pioneer. Their choice of location was a felicitous one. They had little, if anything, to fear from the In- dians when the work of building the nucleus of "John Wallace's town" was actually begun. As frontier settlers they were not in position, it is true, to relax their vigi- lance, for "many Indians" were still abroad, bent on treacherous exploit. The South mountain, after the per- iod of settlement, offered fewer facilities for the opera- tions of the savages than did the mountain upon the other side of the valley, and it was only upon rare occasions that the Indians made hostile visits to the Antietam neighbor- hood, although such visits as they did make were serious enough in their results.
As has been fully set forth in an earlier chapter of this The title. work, the land from which was laid out the town plot of Waynesboro was originally taken up by John Wallace. the elder, who, dying, left it to his son, Robert, from whom it passed by deeds to George, his brother, and from George to John, the founder, and was formally patented to John by the state authorities.
John Wallace, the founder, must not be confounded with John Wallace, his nephew, son of his brother, Thomas, who took out a patent for lands adjoining his uncle at a much later date.
Before the town was laid out it was marked by the Wal- lace home, an old-fashioned hostelry and a few primitive dwellings. The old Wallace homestead is said to be that which is now owned by Dr. Strickler, adjoining the Clay- ton farm east of town. The original house was a log one and the tradition is that it was converted into a house from an old Indian fort that stood there in very early years.
CHAPTER V.
The first Wallace settlement.
Died March 1839, leaving Esther, his widow.
5,
The old Wallace homestead.
THE OLD WALLACE HOMESTEAD.
-
Fin
2,
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
The early gazetteers, not being possessed of the powers of prophecy, passed Waynesboro by with very meagre notice : "A post town in Franklin county:" "A village containing several substantial dwellings and public houses."
From the recollection of old citizens only is it now pos- sible to gather a description of the old town. The de- scription which follows is from the recollections of an old resident of the town, who was familiar with its appearance in every detail as it existed upwards of fifty years ago, which is given in narrative form as follows:
The town consisted of East and West Main street, Me- chanics street going north, and Church street going south.
Beginning on the southeast corner, Mechanics street and Center square, he names the properties on that side of Mechanics street, then comes down the other side and goes out west Main street on the north side, coming back to the square on south side, and going out Church street and back, then out East Main street on south side and back to the square on the north side. This comprised the whole of the town when he lived there.
The town on the north and south sides was surrounded by woods. On the corner of Mechanics street and Center square stood the old stone tavern (Central House now). This place was kept by John Cochran, and was headquar- ters for wagoners hauling from Pittsburg to Baltimore.
Across the alley above the hotel stood the cooper shop of William Wilson. Next the cooper shop were lots be- longing to James Null's father, at the upper corner of which stood his one story log house in which James Null was born. On the other side of the cross street was a two story blacksmith shop belonging to James Null.
Next house belonged to David Funk, a carpenter. This was a one and one-half story brick house. On the corner of an alley leading to Burn's Hill lived Eli Horner, a carpenter. There were no more houses on the east side
CHAPTER V.
Ilistorical men- tion.
Reminiscences and recollections.
James Null. 1830-1840.
The streets.
A trip through the old town.
Old residences and places of business.
1816.
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WAYNESBORO.
CHAPTER V.
Up and down Mechanics street.
of Mechanics street. The first house on the west side at the north end belonged to Joel Hoeflich. Next was Hamilton's blacksmith and wagonmaker shop. employing about thirty hands, and on the same lot was a one and one- half story brick house in which Hamilton lived. On the corner of the Chambersburg road and Mechanics street was a two story log house, in which Polly Blackburn lived. Below this house was a two story log house belonging to Hamilton, and tenanted by Abraham Straley. Below Straley's was a two story log house owned by Nathaniel Wilson, and, later, by Jacob R. Welsh, a hatter, for whom James Null worked for about eight years. The next house stood at the corner of the alley next the square, and was owned by a Mr. Dettrow, and at his death came into possession of Mrs. Polly Gordon, his daughter. On the corner of Mechanics street, and opposite Cochran's tav- ern, was a little log house belonging to Granny Gordon, mother of Hans, Samuel and Alexander Gordon. This property was afterwards sold to George Basehore, who built there and conducted a store in it.
Suggestion as to name of street.
Notice of the few dwellings and houses on this street and the great percentage of mechanics living there, may suggest to the mind how the street derived its name.
In the northwest corner of the square next the house of Mrs. Gordon stood a log house occupied by Griffith, a tailor. Next this was the property of Samuel Gordon, a wheelwright.
On the corner of West Main street and Center square was Stoner's tavern (now National Hotel), a brick build- ing with a large arched driveway built through the build- ing for teams to have access to the yard in the rear. Michael Stoner was the landlord at this time. Above the hotel on West Main street was the store of William Cooper. He was succeeded by William Davison and David Tritle, doing business under the name of Davison & Tritle. The next house was occupied by Shenafield
Along West Main street.
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
and Filbert, tailors. Shenafield was afterwards elected steward of the almshouse and died there. The land on which the People's Bank now stands, and from there to the alley at the Washington House, belonged to Dr. Wal- ker, on which he had a dwelling house. On the alley above the Walker lots was John Smith's tavern stand (now Washington House). Next the hotel was the property of William Weagley, who had a one and one-half story brick dwelling standing back from the street and a saddler shop built out next the street.
Above Weagley's were, first, a two story weather- boarded log house of Downey and sisters; second, prop- erty of Jacob Wolf, a silversmith and clockmaker. James Null's family have in their possession a clock made by him seventy-five years ago. Third, the house of Daniel Disert, a shoemaker; fourth, brick dwelling house and saddler shop of Daniel Crouse. On the land extending from the Crouse property to the alley stood the long one and one- half story log brewery; also the brick dwelling house of Jacob Ziegler. Ziegler was an uncle of George W. Zieg- ler, deceased, of Greencastle, Pennsylvania. Across the alley lived Levi Sanders, a son-in-law of Ziegler. The last building on the north side of West Main street was the blacksmith shop of John Hollenberger, who was suc- ceeded by Levi and Jonas Sanders, who added a wagon- maker shop.
At the extreme west end on the south side was a two story log house occupied by Allen Rippey. At the cor. South side. ner of Main street and Hagerstown road was a brick schoolhouse, afterwards owned by John Johnston, a gunsmith. There were no more houses until we come to corner of Main street and Leitersburg road. Here stood the one and one-half story brick dwelling and pottery of John Bell. On the opposite corner was a two story frame dwelling and blacksmith shop of Lewis Ray.
Next was John Crouse's tailor shop, below which was
CHAPTER V. North Side.
Ancient clock- maker.
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WAYNESBORO.
CHAPTER V.
Maker of "Don't give up the ship" stoves.
the dwelling of John Noon, a moulder, who made the old- fashioned "Don't give up the ship" stoves at Mont Alto furnace. Between this house and the first alley was, first, a vacant lot : second. a log house of Smith, the hatter : third, a one story brick house of William Fulton, stand- ing back from the street. Next the alley was the cake shop of Mrs. Blair, a one and one-half story house, which was headquarters for cakes, candy, taffy and beer. Be- low this alley was a building belonging to William Fulton. "Phillip's" Bank was in this building for a while. Next was the weatherboarded house of Daniel Tritle, a tinner and coppersmith.
Headquarters for "taffy" and beer.
Next were two houses of Dr. Brotherton ; one a stone dwelling house, and the other a brick building. the first floor of which was used for store rooms and the second floor for a dancing hall. Funk & Stewart's, and after them Amberson's, store was in this building. On the corner of West Main street and Center square, opposite the Stoner tavern, was a brick house in which John Stoner lived, and John Fisher also had a cabinetmaker's shop in the same building : also the dry goods store of Daniel O. Gehr.
Where James Null clerked. 1829.
In the southwest corner of the square was a brick double house, belonging to Charles Smith, in the east end of which he kept a general merchandise store, which store James Null entered as clerk.
Going out Church street and back.
Methodist Church.
Going out Church street. at the end of the Smith lot was a two story log house, belonging to Smith. Across the alley was a small house in which lived E. Shugars, nicknamed "Goody" Shugars. The next property was the one story brick Methodist church, which was built while James Null lived in town. The last house on this side of the street belonged to Adam French.
Old Lutheran church.
On the south side, the first building on the outskirts of the town was the Lutheran church. a rough cast building afterwards sold to the Dunkers. Next was Thomas Morehead's pottery at corner of Church street and alley
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
(now Second street). In the next house lived Steven Fry. CHAPTER V. Next was the brick house of Mrs. John Wallace.
On the corner of Church street and the alley next the square was the property of John Clayton, a carpenter, and the father of Hon. James H. Clayton. On the corner of Church street and Center square was the dwelling house of Martin Funk. The first Town Hall building was in this corner of the square on Funk's lot : also the hat shop of William Dechert, who was succeeded in the hat busi- ness by Bechtel & Null. The postoffice also was here while Jacob R. Welsh was postmaster.
On the corner of East Main street and Center square was the weatherboarded house of John Fry, afterwards the Lewis Detrich property. On the east end of the same lot was a brick house occupied by Peter Grumbine, a sil- versmith.
The buildings from Grumbine's to the alley above were first, property of Dr. Liggit, afterwards owned by Lewis Fahrney, who built a tannery on the lot; second, log house of J. Wilson Riley, the hatter, where James Null learned the hat trade; third, a brick house of Thomas Smith, chairmaker; fourth, store of Henry Smith.
Across the alley was the property of Dr. John Oellig, who was a very prominent and successful physician at that time. Next to Oellig's building, and from it to next alley, were, first, house of Thomas Hollingsworth, a tailor ; sec- ond, dwelling of Mrs. Stonehouse; third, wagonmaker shop of Eli Harbaugh; fourth, dwelling and shop of George Cochran, a carpenter; fifth, roughcast dwelling of John Miller. The alley at this point is now Broad street. On the corner of the alley was Harry Harratt's tavern. Harratt also conducted a hat shop here.
Above this was a little log dwelling in which lived a man named Bowser. He was a lively fellow, and would "fiddle" for the young people for dancing. On ac- count of the great number of dances and carousals held
Site of Old Town Hall.
A journey through East Main street.
James Null, a hatter.
1830.
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WAYNESBORO.
CHAPTER V. "Peale's Museum."
Note 2S.
A high old time.
here the place became known as "Peale's Museum." During one of the carousals. Bowser fell into a deep sleep, and the boys put him to bed in a back room, and while some of them danced in the front room the others tore the house down from over them, and Bowser waked in the forenoon with the sun shining in his face. His effects were then moved to the "Poor House" at the east end, which will be told of later.
The first house above the next alley was a one and one- half story log house belonging to Abram Koons. Next was a wagonmaker and blacksmith shop belonging to Grouse. The last house on the south side of East Main street was an old log house, ninety feet long, which was called the "Poor House." It didn't seem to have an owner, and whenever a family couldn't get any place to move they moved into the "Poor House" where they paid no rent.
The "Poor House."
East Main street, North Side.
Catholic Church.
On the north side of the street coming west, the first house at the foot of Cemetery Hill was a two story log house belonging to Lizzie Logan. Three very tall poplar trees stood in front of this house. Next was a one story log house of John Morganthall, which was still standing when James Null was last in Waynesboro, a few years ago. From here to the alley were, first, the house of Conrad Sody: second, roughcast house of Andrew McElroy, a hatter; third, a vacant lot where the Catholic church now stands.
Where General Burns lived.
Between this alley and the next were several vacant lots, and the dwelling house and blacksmith shop of Henry Oaks: also the dwelling of Mrs. Miller, which stood op- posite the Harratt tavern. On the alley running north to the stone schoolhouse lived James Riley, father of J. Wilson Riley; below this house was the two story cabinet- maker's shop of General Burns, and dwelling house next to it in which Burns lived.
Opposite Dr. Oellig's property was Clugston's tavern
III
LOOKING BACKWARD.
stand. Next was a brick building in which Bitner's store, afterwards owned by Alexander Hamilton, was located. In this same building a school-teacher, named Green, taught a school. From this building to the square were, first, a log house of Edward Flannagan, a shoemaker ; second, a one story brick house of Abram Row, a shoe- maker ; third, house of George Price, a barber; fourth, a two story dwelling of Magrow sisters: fifth, the store of Thomas Yates, afterwards owned by Dr. John Oellig, Jr., who conducted a drug store here.
On the Chambersburg road a short distance west of Mechanics street stood the Reformed church, a little log structure surrounded by woods. It was then torn down while James Null lived in the town, and a brick church built at the same location. Later Rev. Glessner was pas- tor.
The stores mentioned in this description are all of the same kind, general merchandise, which included dry goods, groceries, hardware, whiskey and tobacco. The leading merchants mentioned were Davison & Tritle, George Basehore, Charles Smith, Funk & Stewart, (suc- ceeded by Amberson,) Mrs. Blair's stand, and Daniel O. Gehr. Whiskey was sold in nearly all these stores. It re- tailed for a while at twelve and one-half cents per quart, yet drunkenness and rioting around the stores were some things unknown. In the store in which James Null clerk- ed in a place near the door were kept a pitcher of water and a large bottle of whiskey, which were free for the benefit of customers. It became necessary to refill the bottle about as often as the pitcher.
At the time of this description there were two military organizations in the town. One, called the "Blues," was a flint lock musket company, of which Captain John Wal- lace was captain, and afterwards Captain Hollingsworth. The other was a rifle company, whose uniforms were green coats and large plumes in their hats. The captain of this
CHAPTER V. An old school house.
The old Re- formed Church.
1843.
The character of the stores:
Price of whiskey and its use.
-
Military zations.
organi-
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WAYNESBORO.
CHAPTER V.
company was, first, Captain Jacob Bender, succeeded by Captain James H. Clayton.
Muster days.
These military companies, and also the militia of the township (to which every one between the ages of eigh- teen and forty belonged) were compelled to muster or pay one dollar fine. Several days were taken for this each year, and it was always an occasion for a "big day" in the town.
Life in the early days.
Life in Waynesboro in its early days was, naturally not as peaceful and free from excitement as is life in a quiet eastern country village of the present day. It par- took rather more of the character of the settler's life in the towns and villages of the far west of to-day. The mountain fastnesses in the neighborhood were safe hid- ing-places for lawless characters, who there concocted schemes for the undoing of the helpless settler and for their own aggrandizement.
Lawless charac- ters.
J. Francis Bourns, M. D.
Well known through all this section of country through the period of the revolution and down to later days was the notorious band of counterfeiters, highwaymen and horse thieves, who carried on their depredations through the territory extending from the borders of Virginia through all parts of the Cumberland, Lancaster and Ches- ter valleys. Chief among these desperadoes were the Nugents, the Doanes and the Fritzes, and so extensive was their business as to furnish constant employment for many agents all along the route and even into Canada It is not possible here to tell in detail the romantic history of these notorious characters, but mention has already been made by others of some of their operations in the South mountain. A local writer entertainingly tells, in a chapter of "Unwritten Local History," published some time ago in a Waynesboro paper, of the doings of some of the con- federates of this gang.
It was the province of the brave settler to defend him-
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LOOKING BACKWARD.
self against every character of attack, and so it is that CHAPTER V. when the presence of these members of the gang whom the writer calls "the two brothers, Shockke," was suspect- ed in the South mountain, an attacking party under the lead of Colonel James Johnston and 'Squire' John Bourns was formed, and the mountain scoured in search of the marauders. The colonel, with a squad of his daring troops, accompanied by 'Squire' Bourns, marched into the mountain, and thus entertainingly their exploit is re- counted :
.
"A brief halt was made, then the march, or rather dash, was resumed, and up and into the mountains they rode, accompanied by citizens, until they had approached so near the hiding resort that absolute quiet became needful in every movement. Strategy had been planned, the countersign given out, and, dismounted, the party divided, walking stealthily apart through the dense woods to sur- round the marauders' den or cave.
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