USA > Rhode Island > Providence County > History of Providence County, Rhode Island, Volume I > Part 37
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The conception of churchyards as they exist in England had one adoption in this city in St. John's Churchyard on North Main street. This was founded for the " elect " of the Episcopal persuasion when King's church, as St. John's church was first named, was planned. This was in 1722, and it can be understood that a deal of historical fact clusters herc. Nathaniel Brown of Rehoboth, Mass., presented to the Episcopal communion of the city the original tract of land to be used for a church, on the 18th of September, 1722. The land measured 40 feet on " the Town Street," and extended east 71 feet. Afterward additions were made to it, until today the entire area is
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fully an acre. When the first grave was filled in cannot be said. The church was built the same year of the donation of the land. Not till 1772 was the society incorporated. In 1794 the name of the church became St. John's. The first structure for worship has been rebuilt, and the later edifice altered and enlarged.
The shape of this old cemetery is a parallelogram, and its location is hardly visible from the street. It was never labored upon for · artistic landscape effects, and to-day it is deeply grown with shrubs and grass. It is upon the slope of the hill, and a few tombs are built against the rising eastern boundary line. The remaining space is interrupted by the old-fashioned, toppling, moss-grown stones, many of them having been brought to this country from England. The building of the transept and chapel of the church, in late years, has brought several graves under the nave. Amongst these is the grave of the famous French Huguenot, Gabriel Bernon. His body was re-entombed by Hon. Zachariah Allen in 1875. The presence of his grave suggests the distinguished historical character of the church. The first steeple and church bell in Providence were beside these graves. And Doctor McSparran has preached there, and, per- haps, Bishop Berkeley. Until 1755 no record of the burials was kept, but from that year until 1807 the city registrar copied every record kept by the church society. Thenceforth the church books contain the names. It is estimated that over 1,000 bodies rest here. The management has always been with the society, the grave-digger being the only workman on the grounds.
The families which have committed their dead to the dust here are among the best known in the history of the town and city. But the more prosperous to-day have transferred the remains of their loved ones to other grounds. No one has been buried in the grounds in the last decade, and there may never be another.
Thirty years ago there was a great cemetery in the southwestern part of this city known as the West Burial Ground. Its greatness was the result of conglomeration rather than the intention of any founders, and it has a long, if not a fruitful history. Its origin is re- lated to another quite important cemetery which was forgotten long ago by the people. "July 2d, 1722, John Hoyle, for twenty-four pounds of current money," gave to Samuel Danforth, of Taunton; David Smith, John Greenwood and Deacon Samuel Newman, of Re- hoboth: Reverend Timothy Woodbury and Reverend Samuel Whiting of Windham church, and both of Connecticut, a quit-claim deed to a tract of land near where "the two great country roads " meet, that is, lying some distance west of what is known as the new market; this land to be utilized for the erection of a Presbyterian church and parsonage and for burying purposes. Winslow place now divides the High street end into an east and west half. The land measured 170 feet on High street, 300 feet on the east side, 127
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feet on Broad street and 384 feet on the west side. It is now about midway between Fenner street and the junction of High and Broad streets. But a church was not to be built here. One which had been begun was torn down by dissatisfied churchmen. The land was, however, used as a burying place. The Presbyterians in the city continued without organization until the Benevolent Congregational church was organized, in 1728. In 1743 the Beneficent Congrega- tional church was organized. Meantime the Presbyterians or Con- gregationalists buried their dead in the old churchyard, but how numerously cannot be said. If the facts are as history offers them, it appears extraordinary that there should have been any burying there at all. One theory of the facts is that the church, for which the land was sold, and to build which money was collected all over Massachusetts Bay colony, was in fact built; that it was used for some years, and that then a secession of the faithful took place and the Beneficent Congregational church was founded: that soon after both societies built new churches, while they retained their interests in the old property. This theory is supported by the fact that in 1785 the Benevolent, or what is now the First Congregational church and the Beneficent each owned a common half of the burying ground land.
It was in this year that each society purchased of John Field two and one-half acres of land, each portion in an exact square, and com- menced the formation of the West Burial Ground. The two squares made a parallelogram, the Beneficent society's lying directly east of the Benevolent's. The ground was bounded by Plane street on the east, Point street on the south, Prince street on the west, and the north side as will be shown farther on.
The price paid was for each portion " one hundred Spanish milled dollars." It can only be surmised whether the two societies removed any dead from the old ground. July 13th, 1791, John Field sold to an association of about 40 citizens the tract of land bounded by Bea- con, Friendship and Plane streets, and also by the land which com- prised the Beneficent society's cemetery. It cost the buyers 120 Span- ish milled silver dollars, and was known as the Proprietors' Ground for Burial. They were never incorporated into a proper body for holding an estate. In 1809 Isaac Manchester laid out the large tract of land, of a generally square shape, lying on Plane street and ap- proaching Lockwood, and this became the Manchester Burying Ground. In 1818 Thomas Sprague laid out for a burial ground a tract of land just north of the Manchester estate, at the corner of Plane and Point streets. It was known as the Sprague or Hope Ceme- tery. In 1842 Governor Seth Padelford and twelve associates were incorporated to conduct a cemetery immediately west of the Hope Cemetery on Point street. . Its shape was generally of a parallelo- gram. In 1818 Daniel Field laid out for burial purposes a triangular
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lot of land at the corner of Friendship and Beacon streets. The apex of the triangle was at the corner of Prince and Friendship streets, and the third side was bounded by the Benevolent Congregational Ceme- tery. The area of land, comprising the Benevolent Congregational Cemetery, the Beneficent Congregational Cemetery, the Proprietors' Ground for Burial, the Manchester Burial Ground, the Sprague Burial Ground or Hope Cemetery, the Field Burial Ground, and Union Cemetery, about 17 acres, was in its entire extent known as the West Burial Ground.
It was in its prime about the year 1825. Even as late as 1868 it was for the most part in a good condition. But there were no inter- ments after 1870. The Beneficent Congregational Cemetery estate was sold to Mr. Beriah Wall in 1877 for the sum of $50,000. The bodies had been in process of removal by friends for several years, and the last remaining were transferred to Swan Point at the expense of the society. About 1,000 dead were interred upon this ground in all. No records were kept, the conduct of the cemetery being left to the lot-owners who bought under the fee simple of the society, the lots being sub-sold for burying only.
There are not as many old buildings in Providence as one might naturally look for in a city of the age and area of this. A quarter of a century ago one might find many old structures even on the prin- cipal business streets, but the ruthless hand of progress, which recog- nizes not the claims of the moss-covered roofs and leaning walls to an extended existence for the sake of "Auld Lang Syne," has swept them aside, and on their sites have been erected handsome and sub- stantial business blocks. A few of the old-time wooden buildings still remain, particularly on Westminster street, but they are insig- nificant from an historical standpoint and a constant reminder that valuable building sites are being neglected. There are some build- ings, too, which no doubt have very interesting histories, which would be read with great pleasure, but as the only tongues which could relate the facts have long since returned to dust, those histories will remain as sealed books, to be opened only when the secrets of all hearts and things are unfolded.
The younger business men of to-day have no difficulty in recalling Westminster street when it was lined almost entirely with wooden structures from one end to the other; when brick buildings were rarities on that thoroughfare, and when the business done on that street was almost wholly confined between Washington row and Mathewson street, with a few small stores straggling as far as the Lyman estate, on the corner of Walker street. To these men come pleasant memories of the old First Universalist church, at the corner of Union street, the present site of the Boston store, where the two tall trees cast a cooling shade over the recessed sidewalk in the burn- ing summer days; of the old gambrel-roofed yellow building which
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stood on the next lot below, where Paul Wright, the grey-haired caterer, and his amiable wife, with her gold-bowed spectacles that awed the little ones, carried on business with much success for many years; of the low white building which was torn away when the Eddy street continuation from Westminster to Washington street was ordered, in which O. W. Prince kept a toy shop that would have delighted Dickens, Remington & Sessions ran a grocery store and Perrin's circulating library was kept. Prince afterward bloomed out as an æronaut, Remington & Sessions took the store opposite Grace church, and Perrin dropped down a few doors to his present location.
Where the Curry and Richards building now stands there was at that time a low, one-story brown building, occupied in its last days by Corey Brothers. On the corner above, and on the same side of the street, was a row of rickety structures, occupied by Read, the paper-hanger, a tailor, and other kinds of business. On the Dorrance street side of the same building was Bennett's gun shop, where the patriotic youths loaded up for Fourth of July, and the surgeon's of- fice at one and the same time. There was also started in the Middle street corner of the building the first liquor saloon with stalls and women waiters that Providence had seen, and it was copied from the since notorious New York saloons of the "Billy McGlory" type. The place was called the "Green Mountain," and lives in the police his- tory of the city as the place where the cowardly murder of a woman was attempted by shooting. David Heaton had a jewelry store at the same time, situated at the corner of Westminster and Exchange streets, in the building which was demolished to give place to the Atlantic Block. On festive occasions the interest of the younger people was evenly divided between Paul Wright's molasses candy and an automaton in Mr. Heaton's window, which consisted of a monkey figuring as a portrait painter. The Howard and Phoenix buildings had been reared from the ashes of the great fire, a few years before the time covered by these few reminiscences, and in the one the " swell " dances were held, and in the other was the Academy of Music, the only respectable theater Providence could then boast of. In the same building with the theater was quite a large-sized hall, in which Peck held his dancing school.
At the corner of Union and Westminster streets, where the Bar- naby Block now stands, was a peaked-roof building, where Patrick Power carried on the tailoring business for many years and made nearly all the first jackets and pairs of pantaloons which the present business men of the city wore. The other store was a Catholic re- pository and the headquarters for emigration tickets and drafts to be used in Ireland. Opposite the Arcade was a large building in which Perry & Barnard had a dry goods store, Taber a watch and jewelry store, and Barstow drove a thriving carpet trade. Overhead, Man- chester carried on the furniture business. Further down, on the
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same side, and where the Wheaton Building now stands, was the low structure in which Martin & Symonds conducted the dry goods busi- ness and Mead had his dental parlors.
The Hoppin homestead with its high brick wall surroundings and its stately columns, then recalled the colonial epoch, for every inch of the palatial residence spoke of the old-time grandeur. Like its occupant, the late Lord Hoppin, as he was then called, the structure had an air of refinement pleasant to contemplate. It was but a few years ago that the familiar residence was torn down to make way for the present Hoppin Homestead Building. Contemporaneous with the Hoppin was the Lyman homestead, on the next corner above, which has since been remodelled and given over to business pursuits, but which still retains some of its old features. Another old residence, and one that used to attract much attention, was the Waterman house, at the corner of Broad and Union streets. One would hardly recognize in the present structure, which is used partly for business and partly for dancing purposes, any of the details of the old build- ing. At the corner of Weybosset and Peck streets stood the old Telegraph House, a noted resort for "crooks," plug-uglies, burglars and all the noted law-breakers. "Bristol Bill," one of the greatest criminals of his day, made that hotel his headquarters, and under its roof many bold pieces of lawlessness were concocted, in which he figured. The hotel building stood until about 1885, having been used for several years for legitimate business pursuits, and at last being demolished to make room for a large and handsome brick block.
The oldest dwelling in the city is the Whipple house on the north side of Abbott street, east of North Main street. It dates back more than two centuries, and its original owner, Samuel Whipple, was born in the year 1643. When the town was burned by the Indians, March 30th, 1676, this building was spared the incendiary torch, and it is believed that the reason it was not destroyed was that the Indians, knowing that Roger Williams and his followers had worshipped there, revered the structure. Keeping pace with the times the old house has assumed several changes, until now the original plans are materially lost sight of. Samuel Whipple was the first person buried in the North Burial Ground.
The Tillinghast house, on South Main street, north of Transit street, was erected by Philip Tillinghast about 1710. At that time there were but four dwelling houses in that part of Providence. The structure is of wood, two stories in height, with basements on the western end, a broad, hipped roof, dormer windows and a great chimney in its center which is five feet square at the top.
St. John's Episcopal church, the oldest structure in Providence belonging to that denomination, was erected in 1722, at the corner of North Main and Church streets, and was known as King's chapel.
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The first church bell hung in the town was in the steeple of this church. In 1794 the name of the church was changed to St. John's.
The Friends' meeting house at the corner of North Main and Meeting streets, was built about 1727. It is a wooden structure, de- void of any ornamentation. It was increased in size in 1984-5, and for several years the town meetings were held in the upper part of the building. The first meeting of the Friends in Providence of which there is record was held in a large barn, George Fox, the founder of the sect, being the leader. As early as 1704 the sect built a small meeting house, but it long ago went the way of all earthly things.
The old brick dwelling house, No. 537 North Main street, was built in 1752-3 by Elisha Brown. It is three stories in height, has a gambrel roof, and was formerly one-third longer on its north side, a portion of the house having been demolished to make way for a modern cottage house. It is believed that the central window of the three now remaining on the north side was the center of the origi- nal structure.
The state house, on Benefit street, was built in 1762, and occupies the site of the old colony house, which was destroyed by fire in 1758. The building is of brick, with stone facings, and capped by a belfiy. The supreme court sat in the lower or representatives' hall as late as 1877, when the new court house was dedicated. In 1881 the general assembly caused the interior of the building to be re- modelled, so that to-day very few traces are left of the quaint finish- ings which formerly interested the spectators during dull sessions of the court or prosy arguments of wearisome legislators. The greatest curiosities in the state house to-day are the Gilbert Stuart portrait of General Washington, the "Gaspee" commission, the famous state charter issued in 1663, and in force until 1842, and the original deed of the state house lot.
The old city building on Market Square was built in 1773. It was erected for a public market by means of funds raised through a lottery. In 1797 St. John's Lodge of Masons built on the third story, and for many years used that floor for society purposes. Being cen- trally located the building came into favor for city offices, and in time it became the headquarters for nearly all the municipal busi- ness, taking and holding the name of city hall until 1878, when the present city hall was occupied.
The First Baptist church, on North Main street, between Water- man and Steeple streets, was erected in 1775, and has a steeple 196 feet high, that is considered to be as beautiful as any in this country. The society was founded in 1638 and was chartered in 1774, and is believed to be the oldest Baptist society in this country. The great crystal chandelier which is pendant from the center of the auditorium is remarkably handsome.
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The Hopkins House, No. 9 Hopkins street, was owned by Stephen Hopkins, one of the signers of the declaration of independence, for nine years the governor of this state, a chief justice of the supreme court of the state, and elected to many other offices of public trust. The old house formerly stood at the foot of Hopkins street. The side originally facing South Main street is now turned toward Hopkins street. History says that in 1775 General Washington passed a night in this old house.
The Mansion House, at the corner of Benefit and South Court streets, is the oldest public house now standing in this city. In 1784 its front bore the sign of "Golden Ball Inn." Among the honored guests at the old inn in its palmy days were Presidents Washington and Monroe and General Lafayette. The interior of the old inn is dark and dingy with age, and from the busy hotel, where gay recep- tions were once held, it has drifted into an ordinary boarding house.
Brown University is really the center of historic interest in Provi- dence. University Hall was built in 1770, and from December 7th, 1776, until May 27th, 1782, was occupied for barracks and a hospital by the American and French soldiers. It is of brick and 150 feet long. Hope College is also of brick, and is four stories in height. It was erected in 1822 by the Hon. Nicholas Brown, and was named for his sister, Hope Ives. Manning Hall was built in 1824; was also the gift of the Hon. Nicholas Brown. It is of stone, covered with ce- ment, and is modelled after a Grecian temple of the Doric order. Rhode Island Hall was built in 1840 by subscription. The president's residence, at the corner of College and Prospect streets, was built in 1840. It is of wood, with an Ionic portico. All the other buildings are of recent construction.
The Richmond Street Congregational church was begun in 1795 and completed in 1807. Its roof gave it the title of the " Tin Top." The society later erected a brick edifice on the opposite corner of Pine street, and the old church became the abiding place for other religious societies, until it was purchased for a brewery. Later it was used as a junk shop, and now it has been turned into a livery stable.
The First Congregational church was built on Benefit street, corner of Benevolent street, in 1816, on the site of another edifice belonging to the society, which was burned down in 1814. The church is noted for its massive and elegant pulpit of mahogany.
The Chestnut Street Methodist Episcopal church, at the corner of Clifford street, was erected in 1822, and is the oldest of its denomina- tion in Providence. The building originally occupied by the society was erected at the corner of Washington and Aborn streets, and was dedicated in 1816. During the gale of September, 1869, the steeple on the present building was blown down.
The new market, at the junction of High and Broad streets, was built in 1827. It was not the success that had been anticipated, and is now leased for various branches of business.
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One of the most prominent of the old business buildings is the Arcade. It extends through from Weybosset street on the south to Westminster on the north, being 216 feet in length and 74 feet wide fronting on either street. The building is three stories high and is lighted from a glass roof. Each floor is divided into 26 stores, which are mainly occupied by retail dealers in fancy goods, millinery and kindred lines. The building is of granite, in the Ionic style, and the portico at either end is supported by six massive granite pillars. It was erected in 1828, at a cost of about $145,000, and was then pro- nounced the handsomest building in Providence, and the most elab- orate one devoted to similar purposes in the United States. The pro- prietors were Cyrus Butler of the eastern half, and the Arcade Cor- poration of the western half. The architect was Russell Warren.
The Westminster Congregational Unitarian church, on Mathew- son street, was erected in 1829. It is of stone and has a grand old portico of the Ionic type. The interior was remodelled about 1872.
The building now known as Amateur Dramatic Hall, at the cor- ner of South Main and Power streets, was erected for church pur- poses in 1833, by the Power Street Methodist Episcopal society. They retained it until about 1873, when it was altered into a riding school, and in 1876 it was leased and revamped as a theater by the Amateur Dramatic Club.
The Athenaeum, at the corner of Benefit and College streets, was completed in 1837. Nicholas Brown and the heirs of Thomas P. Ives gave the lot, $6,000 for the building and $4,000 for books. The char- ter for the Athenæum was granted in 1831. The building is of gran- ite and contains 40,000 volumes.
The old state prison, on Gaspee street and back of the Cove Basin, was built in 1838, at a cost of $51,500. It is of granite, and with the Providence county jail, which was built in 1839, was vacated in 1878, when the new state penal buildings at Cranston were ready for occu- pancy.
The old stone theater, on Dorrance street, east of Pine street, was built in 1839, but not proving a paying institution, it was soon given over to business pursuits.
The Arsenal, on Benefit street, near Meeting street, was erected in 1840. It is of plastered stone, with two castellated towers. It is now used by the Marine Corps of Artillery and the Battery attached to the Brigade of Rhode Island Militia.
The Bethel church on Benefit street, near the junction of Wicken- den street, was erected in 1841. The deed of the property was made by Joseph A. Chedel to George Larned, William P. Bullock, Seth Padelford, Daniel Fish, John C. Lee, Joseph W. Davis, Josiah Sim- mons, Jonathan Pike, Nathan Mason, Resolved Waterman and Daniel T. Goodhue for $1 in trust. for the purpose of holding free religious
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services for the spiritual benefit of mariners. The building was used for the purposes named in the deed until October 22d, 1884, when the property was formally transferred to the Christian Mission, and by that association opened on the evening of January 25th as the Bethel Coffee House.
The Butler Hospital was completed in 1847. The original bequest was made by the Hon. Nicholas Brown, who died in 1841 and left $30,000 for the hospital. Cyrus Butler gave $40,000 in 1841, and other citizens of Providence gave another $40,000. Since then there have been many bequests establishing permanent funds for the mainte- nance of special objects for the use and benefit of the patients. The building is of brick, and the grounds, which cover 140 acres, are beau- tifully laid out and rich with luxurious growths of shrubs, flowering plants and great shade trees.
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