USA > Rhode Island > Bristol County > Bristol > Sketches of old Bristol > Part 16
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GEORGE T. BOURNE
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BABBITT'S OR "LONG WHARF"
ABOUT the year 1850 a young lad who was working in the planing mill of the late Capt. Joseph L. Gardner, during the noonday lay-off, took it into his head to explore the interior of Captain Gardner's grist mill, which was located nearby; and once inside, boy-like he decided to start up the machinery. The result was, his hand was caught in the machinery, causing a very painful injury. Forty years after, he wrote a very interesting account of the planing mill and the old wharf called "Long Wharf". This old landmark is the wharf at the foot of Church street, what is now the Naval Reserve wharf. At the time (1890) the article appeared the only remaining building on the wharf had just been torn down.
"The destruction of the old brick store at the end of Babbitt's or Long Wharf calls for more than passing notice for it breaks a link which binds Bristol of the present with what it was in the days of mercantile prosperity. Then its wharves were lined by square-riggers and its storehouses were filled with merchandise brought from all parts of the world. In the early records of the town we find that a point of land extending out into the harbor at the foot of Church street was known as "Warehouse Point". In the old deeds it was described as a public landing, as a wharf, flats and beach. It was first owned by a member of the Cary family, early settlers in these parts, probably John, who was the first deacon of the Congregational church. The deacon built a house on the north side of Malt House Lane. He was a brewer and his brewery, from which the lane derived its name, was built near this house. The pious old deacon made a great quan- tity of ale, the greater part of which he shipped to Newport, from which port it was distributed throughout the colonies.
"In the year 1727 this point of land was in the possession of Nathaniel Paine's estate, remaining in this old family until
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1808, when it was sold to Jacob Babbitt and Leonard J. Brad- ford, who, about this time also bought from Capt. Charles D'Wolf more land to the south, thus making the wharf premises what they are at the present time. The cost of the land in all was $1450-with no mention of building thereon.
"In 1810 Messrs. Babbitt and Bradford divided the wharf into five square parts, each having a frontage of 50 feet on the wharf. These sections were numbered from I to 5; this shows us that the wharf was at least 250 feet long in those days. Upon these lots there were erected brick storehouses, two stories in height. They each had two doors leading out onto the wharf. While in the process of erection, these sections were deeded with a joint use of wharf privileges to the following persons: Leonard J. Bradford received No. I section. The section does not seem to have been used by him for his personal use, for it was rented, at the east end, for a store and the rest for storage purposes. Benjamin Bosworth, Jr. obtained the 2nd section, and his son, Capt. Benjamin, together with Jacob Babbitt, used it in their joint business. Capt. Bosworth married Mr. Babbitt's daughter. The property in 1847 was sold to the Pokanoket Steam Mill Co. for $1500. Mr. Babbitt was president of this company. Charles D'Wolf and his son Charles, Jr. came into possession of section No. 3 and used the property in connection with their business at the next wharf, now (1890) known as Connery's wharf. Charles D'Wolf's beautiful mansion was located near this old wharf. Gen. George D'Wolf took section No. 4; he also purchased the next wharf north, now occupied by the National India Rubber Co., and this became the center of his vast mercantile business which at one time bid fair to equal if not rival that of his famous uncle, Senator James D'Wolf. It was here that he was compelled by financial reverses to make an assignment of his property in the year 1825. In doing this, he brought about a great financial panic, the influence of which was so great and widespread that the business interests of the town failed to recover from its effects and had much to do with terminating the mercantile efforts of the place. After his failure
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the property came into the possession of Robert Rogers-this was in 1830. Mr. Rogers at once moved from his old location, which was on the wharf now owned by the Providence Shade Roller Mfg. Co., and continued his business here until his retirement.
"Jacob Babbitt retained section No. 5; this became the seat of his large and extensive mercantile activity. Under the name of Babbitt and Greene, his son and son-in-law, carried on the business for years, and were the last to use the property for the purpose it was built.
"Soon after these stores and warehouses were built, came the terrible storm known as the 'September Gale of 1815'. Some of the exposed sections were unable to resist its forces. Mr. Babbitt had sugar, to the value of $40,000 stored there in bond, which was entirely ruined, and in his anxiety for its preservation, he so far neglected his own safety, it became necessary to take him from the building in a boat, at a great risk of life to all hands. The older residents can well remember when this wharf, then known as Babbitt's or Long Wharf, was covered with bar- rels of molasses, and the stores filled with cargoes of iron, sugar, hemp and other imported goods from foreign ports.
"The then boys of the town can remember how they stuck their forefingers into the vent of the casks and transferred the bubbling molasses to their waiting lips. They will remember looking down into the holds of the ships just in from Cuba, with their bins full of Havana oranges, bananas, and sugar cane. The outgoing ships were the greater matter of interest to the mature people of the village-it was the new arrivals that inter- ested the youngsters hanging about the wharves in those days.
"Piles of shooks and hoop poles extended far up the wharf into the street. Then came the loads of onions and other kinds of local produce, each striving to be the first to be unloaded. In times still further back, there would come drays loaded with puncheons of rum from the five distilleries in the village, teams with cordage from the rope works, leather from the tanneries, and horses, cattle and sheep, driven in from the outlying farms,
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all going to constitute the cargo from which the shippers looked for a grand return. Add to all this the stir and excitement over the preparation of the ships and crews for a long voyage, extend- ing often into months and sometimes years; the sad parting of husbands and wives, sons and parents; then picture them later waiting for the ships to return, on the house tops for an earlier view, and then on the wharves lining the water front as the square-riggers came into view down the bay. Sometimes they came up the harbor with drooping colors which meant to the anxious ones watching from shore that some of those who had sailed away would never return.
"Up to this point, this historic old wharf was used for com- mercial purposes only, reaching its highest point of activity during the years previous to 1830. From this date to the year 1848 its efforts became less active each year, until they ceased entirely, and the premises were used only for storage purposes. This change came about because of the following: The failure of George D'Wolf in 1825 so affected his brother Charles as to cripple the latter in his business, and in 1833 he too failed. Jacob Babbitt, Senior, soon after relinquished active business, leaving the firm of Babbitt and Greene to carry on the business. In time the firm too found their efforts unprofitable to continue, and finally Robert Rogers retired from active business life. These four merchants and owners of the old wharf had given to it its business prosperity and their retirement ended its activities.
"A radical change came in the year 1849, when Jacob Babbitt sold to Capt. Joseph L. Gardner his section No. 5. Capt. Gardner started a grist mill and a planing mill on the premises he had just purchased. Eventually the dock at the north was completely filled with large white pine logs, from which were sawed the planks used at the shipyards of Amos Crandall, Capt. Joseph S. Thompson, and Stanton & Skinner. In those days the wharf from its head to the street was piled high with lumber of all kinds, leaving only a narrow passageway to the storehouses, which were owned at that time as follows:
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No. I by Ephriam Sprague No. 2 by Pokanoket Steam Mill Co. Nos. 3 and 4 by Robert Rogers No. 5 by Capt. Joseph L. Gardner.
"This appropriation by Capt. Gardner of all the wharf priv- ileges caused the strongest protest and most determined opposi- tion from Mr. Rogers who finally went to law about it.
"I can well remember the appearance and concern of Mr. Rogers when he looked upon the state of affairs on the wharf. In those times he used to drive down in his old-fashioned chaise every day to his counting-room which was located on the wharf. Capt. Gardner had been a successful shipmaster and carried into his new business all the energy and determination which he was in the habit of displaying on shipboard where he reigned supreme. However, all his energy and efforts could not over- run the opposition of the other owners of the wharf, the majesty of the law eventually stepping in and settling their differences.
"In 1850 No. 5 was conveyed by Capt. Gardner to Robert Rogers, Wm. R. Noyes and the Pokanoket Steam Mill Co., for $2450. The works of Capt. Gardner were then removed to the premises formerly owned by Charles D'Wolf, next south of the Steam Mill Co., which the captain purchased for $7500, from the heirs of James D'Wolf, in 1850. In this removal he did not let his reverses interfere with his business, but increased it far beyond what it was in the past, until it became a very large in- dustry. A large fire in 1853 visited the works, destroying a large part of them and the old mansion house, then occupied by six tenants. Again in 1861 another fire came and it put an end to the undertaking. The wharf again went back to its former sleepy state, except that one of Mr. Rogers' stores was used by John W. Dearth and Robert S. Andrews for the manufacture of oil and candles, and the store at the east end was used by William Bradford as a grocery store, until poor health caused him to relin- quish the business. The burning of the Pokanoket Mill in 1854, tended to make the premises more deserted than ever.
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"There was more life infused into it when Jacob Babbitt, Jr., rebuilt the mill in 1859, at which time he bought from Jonathan D. Waldron, No. I, who had purchased it in 18 53 from the heirs of Ephraim Sprague. When the mill started up again in 1859, a section of No. I was again used as a store, with Dr. Luther A. Martin in charge of the same, the other part being used for storing cotton and supplies and the wharf used in part for dis- charging coal, it being conveyed by an elevated track to the yard of the mill.
"The war of the rebellion closed the mill and after the death of Major Babbitt in 1862, it passed, with the stores owned by him, into the hands of the Reynolds Manufacturing Company, and when the mill again resumed business under the new owners, the store was again opened by Adjutant Charles F. Page, who returned wounded from the war, but it soon ceased to be used as such. Mr. Rogers became so disgusted with his late experience with this wharf, that in 1850 he made a gift of No. 4 to Capt. Wm. H. Mosher, his favorite shipmaster, who had for many years served him most faithfully in command of the vessels Roger Williams and the Aquidnick. The last named vessel was built for him when she first became a whaler. No. 3, at the same time, he gave to Wm. B. Tilley, and in 1852, he gave his interest in No. 5 to Mr. Henry Wardwell. The last two gifts were sup- posed to have been caused in part by a very unfortunate whaling venture in which they were interested with him and lost heavily. In these gifts he showed that he appreciated the merits of those connected with him in his undertakings.
"Subsequently all these parts, except the last named, came into the possession of the Reynolds Manufacturing Co., and from them to the Cranston Worsted Mill. Two of the stores orig- inally owned by Robert Rogers, while being used for storage pur- poses by the National Rubber Company, were visited by fire and so badly damaged that they were taken down and never rebuilt.
"During the years of 1893 and '94, the legislature of the State voted appropriations amounting to $20,000, with which to build a stone armory in Bristol, for the use of the Bristol Naval Re-
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serve Torpedo Company, an organization lately formed for sea coast protection. The site selected for this building was the west end of the wharf, being the land occupied by storehouse No. 5, and all land west and north of it; the State paying $3950 for same. When the Armory is completed and the grounds about it laid out, it will be one of the most attractive spots along the water front."
THE OLD CONGREGATIONAL MEETING-HOUSE
YOU probably all know that at one time this old landmark stood in the middle of Bradford street; but do you know that years ago it was known as the Presbyterian Meeting House? This old house of worship, with its square pews, high pulpit and sounding board was erected in the summer of 1784. In time the interior arrangement was changed; the square pews were re- placed by long pews and the sounding board removed. There were long galleries.on either side and one in the rear. On the north and south sides was a double row of windows with small panes of glass, forty in each window. The old meeting house was moved in 1857 to the lot on the north side of Bradford street, not far distant from its former site, and in time became to be known as the Town Hall. There it stood until finally destroyed by fire February 5, 1934. The passing of this old landmark severed one of our few remaining links with the past.
The corner of Hope and Bradford streets has so completely changed, even in our own times, it is hard to visualize it as it once was. The only way we now have of doing this, is through the eyes of those who were living years ago. Those people are now gone, but fortunately they left behind some very interest- ing accounts of those days.
"The historic old structure stood in the middle of Bradford street and faced Hope street. There were four large elm trees
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in front forming a little park, where people gathered before and after the service to exchange greetings and to talk over matters of interest. I recall seeing at those gatherings Gov. Byron Diman, Capt. Benj. Pitman, Robert Rogers, the banker, Henry Wardwell, Dr. Jabez Holmes and many others.
"The edifice stood as high above Hope street as the Col. Samuel Norris mansion now stands. The street was not graded then and there was a broad walk leading up to the steps at the front entrance which was bordered on either side by broad grass plats.
"On the 4th of July the Artillery company used to stack their guns on either side of the walk before entering the meeting house for the exercises. I can still see in memory the glitter of the sun on the bright bayonets.
"In the rear of the meeting house, at the east end, there were several large poplar trees, under which the people who came from a distance used to hitch their teams. In the summer time the constant stamping of the horses was heard through the open windows. Just back of this little grove of trees Bradford street divided into two ways, one branch skirting the south side of the meeting house and the other the north side, both coming out on Hope street. The church was warmed in winter by two cylinder stoves for wood situated at either side of the entrance, with long pipes running under the galleries the whole length of the build- ing. In addition many pews were provided with foot stoves, little perforated iron boxes filled with embers from a wood fire, either brought from home or filled by the sexton. Others carried soapstone blocks or bricks, heated at home, to keep them warm during the long three hours service. Sometimes they heated them on the stove at the entrance. One good lady who sat well forward, after her brick had been on the stove long enough to be well heated through, wrapped it up carefully and gingerly carried it to her seat, lest it burn her fingers. That particular Sabbath morning the sexton had neglected to build a fire in the stove.
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"The sexton of the church used to sit at one end of the choir loft and usually seemed to be asleep all during the service. One of the duties of this official was to take up the collection in the galleries, for this purpose he used his old beaver hat; the plop, plop of the coins dropping into the hat could be heard all through the church. The colored people sat up in the galleries; and in those days there were many colored families in the town. I re- member there was one good brother who used to sit up there who slept all through the service. It was said of him that he could repeat more of the sermon than any person present. There was one man who regularly occupied a seat up there who was quite deficient in wits (Sammy Slocum), he always wore a large square painted pin in his shirt front and had on white gloves.
"I recall I liked to watch John Adams and his family as they came into the church. He lead the procession, followed by his wife, then the children in the order of their ages, the youngest bringing up the rear. They would walk up to their seats facing south by the pulpit, he would open the door of the pew and allow the family to pass in, then he would follow in, pull the door to and button it, and then they would look over the entire congregation."
The sermons in the olden days often had at least fifteen or sixteen readings and it was not unusual for those to be sub- divided. They were no doubt as dry as they were long; is it to be wondered at that the young folks did not derive any real pleasure from going to church and remaining quiet all through a three hour long sermon! The Sabbath was a full day at the time we are discussing; morning and afternoon services, Sabbath School at noon and "Third Service", as it was called, in the evening. By this time one was pretty much steeped in religious matters, he was ready to retire and call it a day. An old account of those days says that "the attendance at all the services was very good, even the galleries being well filled."
"The singing was always by a large mixed choir; they occu- pied the gallery at the rear of the church, called the choir loft. It was customary for the congregation to rise during the sing-
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ing and turn to face the choir. In the early days, before they had an organ, this deficiency was supplied by a large bass viol played by one of the local musicians of the village."
People in those days were a lot more pious than the people of today. Along with this they were much more pronounced in their views, particularly where church matters were concerned. Even in these times a good church row is something not to be passed up.
"At the time it was first proposed to install a church organ in the house of worship, the congregation immediately became divided. Some of the members wanted it and some did not. The first time the new organ was used, a celebrated musician, a blind man, then well known in New England, was engaged to play. At the first note, one of the prominent men of the church, who sat near the pulpit, the organ being at the rear of the church, arose and turning around shook his fist in anger at the organ, at the same time crying out, 'Stop that noise!' Then he left the church in disgust. Others who never before heard anything of the kind, commented, 'It is heaven!' "
THE OLD TOWN CLOCK
In searching through the old files one constantly runs across something about the town clock, but nothing concerning its loca- tion in those days. However an old Town Meeting record of the year 1831 mentions "the Town Clock in the belfry of the Congregational Meeting-House". At a later town meeting in 1833 James M. Gooding was appointed "To take charge of the Town Clock-to wind her up when necessary and keep her in repair". Years ago while repairing the tower of the old meeting house, workmen uncovered the space where the face of the clock was formerly located, also the framework and rolls of the old clock. The rolls, all that remain of the old timepiece, are now safely preserved in the vault at the Town Clerk's office.
DR. SHEPARD
These reminiscences of the old meeting house would not be complete without a word concerning the Rev. Thomas Shepard,
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D.D. who served as pastor of the church for so many years. Dr. Shepard was born in Norton, Mass., May 7, 1792. He was graduated from Brown University in 1813, completing his theological studies at the Andover Seminary three years later. On the Ist of April, 1835, he was called, by a unanimous vote, to assume the pastoral charge of this church. After thirty years of most useful and honored service, he was, at his own request, relieved from active duties of this office. His resignation, ren- dered necessary by increasing infirmity, was accepted only with the understanding that his official connection with the parish should not be severed. In this connection he continued to serve for fourteen years, to the time of his death in October, 1879. He was buried in the family plot in the North Cemetery. A large brownstone monument on the north side of the main driveway marks his last resting place.
Dr. Shepard was an eminent representative of the old school of New England divines. He was a man of lofty stature and his personal presence was imposing; his manners were dignified and courteous. As a preacher he was marked by solid thought and by practical acquaintance with religion. He lived in charity with all men. The universal respect with which he was regarded in the community where he passed so many years knew no limi- tations of sect. One instance of this respect has survived all these years. When the steamboat line stopped here years ago, if Dr. Shepard was waiting there on the dock, the captain would motion everybody else to stand back until the reverend gentle- man had gone aboard.
A contemporary who knew Dr. Shepard back in the Civil War times, has left a very interesting and intimate account of the aged divine: "Of grave demeanor, very kindly and sym- pathetic, he was interested in the youth, the schools and all affairs of the town. His church prospered and it was during his pastorate the present beautiful edifice was erected. His family was large, nine children I think, and his salary conversely small, never reaching $1000-and for the most part was much less than that. Yet he somehow managed to give them all a good
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education. When I asked him, 'Dr. Shepard, did your church pay you your salary punctually?' 'O, never' said he, 'they were always behind hand.' Yet he was not a man to complain and the thrift and economy of those earlier days, with the use of a modest parsonage, and some donations of wood, and the fruit of a garden tilled by himself (the old records mention that he also kept a cow or two) produced a living quite as comfortable on the whole and less pinched in appearance than some ministers in our day."
The following appeared in the Phenix in September, 1839. "The subscriber will hear recitations in Latin and in English Grammar, during two hours each day, at his Study, commencing October 7th. Terms 50 cents per week, and no extra charge. Thomas Shepard"
An old story that has survived these many years should fit in here very well: "Years ago one of the town's poorly-paid dominies on being asked by one of his wealthy parishioners if he had a good garden, naively replied: 'No, sir, I have not a good garden, but I have a very good basket.'."
HOME LIFE OF LONG AGO
Written in 1910 by MISS C. MARIA SHEPARD, daughter of Rev. Thomas Shepard, D.D., pastor of the First Congregational Church, 1835-1865.
OUR home for many years was in the old New England town of Bristol, R. I., where our father, Rev. Thomas Shepard, D.D., was pastor of the First Congregational Church for many years, 1835-1865. It was a beautiful old town with the streets run- ning the entire length, the compact part in squares one-eighth of a mile in breadth, every street heavily shaded by elms, the cross streets extending to the water front, and terminating in wharves. These wharves bore the names of the owners of mer- chant ships, and shipping men, who erected large warehouses upon them for the storing of molasses, sugar, cocoanuts, bananas, tea, and coffee-a good variety of foreign products.
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