USA > Rhode Island > Washington County > Westerly > Some papers delivered before the Westerly Historical Society 1916-1927; and a list of the members Jan. 1927 > Part 4
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Another of Westerly's old salts was Capt. H. C. Lanphear, who in his early days sailed on the whaling bark Robin Hood. Afterwards he was in the coasting trade, and finally was commander of several of the Long Island Sound passenger steamers. Among the river cap- tains who engaged in trade were Isaac, Sylvester and Timothy Gavitt, George P. and George H. S. Barber, Silas Fitch, James, and Samuel Dickens. John F. Lyman and John P. Hall, 2nd, William S. Robinson and others. Singular as it may appear, in the early part of the last century two brothers at Potter Hill, about five miles from head of navigation, built several sloops, schooners and even one ship, and after partial construction took them apart. brought them to tide water and put them together again.
As a class, the mariners raised on the banks of the Pawcatuck. both in courage and seamanship, compared very favorably with those of any other locality. In his talk a few weeks ago before this august body, Mr. T. D. Babcock, failed to mention the name of Babcock among the captains that he enumerated. Perhaps it was his natural modesty which prevented him from so doing. He himself was a suc- cessful captain as well as his father and uncle. I am told that there is a young man borned and raised at AAvondale, who bears that name and who is in command of an ocean coastwise steamer. Also, a young man named Gavitt, who is in a similar position, and one of Alex C. Thomp- son's sons is a successful pilot at the mouth of the. Mississippi, which goes to show that the rising generation is following in the footsteps of their predecessors. They are an honor to their parents, to their native town and to the banks of the old Pawcatuck.
There was a shoal spot midway in the river just below the stone mill and at the old Indian fording place which was barely visible at low water. This afterwards was known as Joe's Island. Mr. Alcorn with a yoke of oxen and an ox shovel scooved the surrounding river bottom onto the shoal spot and brought it up above the ordinary high
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water. On this he added soil and brought it to a state of cultivation. On this place he raised ducks, geese, chickens and other livestock.
In later years in deepening the channel most of Joe's Island was taken away. There was another long and narrow island in the middle of the river opposite Sherman's planing mill which had been thrown up by the first mud-digger. This island also was taken away. Near here at the foot of Vincent Lane is a small cove which for many years was used as a place of baptism for those who had experienced a change of heart. Following south, Bungtown and the landing come next. It was called the landing from the fact that all the vessels landed their car- goes at the three wharves along there. Further along was Greenman's shipyard, a truly historic spot. This yard was established in 1833, and in years gone by scores of craft from the scow (or square-toed packet as they were called) to the stately ship were built and successfully launched. After launching it was not much trouble to get the smaller ones down the river but with the larger ones it was harder work and often they put casks under them to buoy them up, and with a high tide they managed to get them over Kenyon's Bar and past Pawcatuck Rock to deep water. Perhaps the craft which gained the most notoriety was the ship Charles Phelps built in 1842. for Charles P. Williams of Ston- ington, to be used in the whaling industry. Palmer Hall was her first commander and Gilbert Pendleton. Jr., her second. On both these voyages Wm. Greenman sailed as carpenter and boat steerer. During the Civil War she was purchased by the government, filled with stone and sunk in Charleston Harbor. After the war she was raised and sold to New Bedford and renamed Progress. After a few voyages she was sent through the lakes to the Chicago Exposition of 1893.
Perhaps it might be of some interest to you to give you a crude idea of the methods employed in building and launching a vessel as practiced fifty years ago. The first thing was to make a firm foundation to build the vessel on. This was accomplished by laying a row of blocks which were called keel blocks, and they were strung along about three feet apart and with a slight incline toward the river. On these blocks or piers was laid the keel of the vessel which consists of long heavy tim- bers firmly bolted together and at whatever length it is desired to have the vessel. On this keel was then bolted crosswise timber anywhere from eight to fifteen feet long and about two or three feet apart, and these were called the floor timbers. To these were fastened the ribs or timbers which formed the shape and sides of the vessels. From these timbers or ribs the deck-beams were laid across. After this the stem and stern pieces were fastened to the opposite ends of the keel. The vessel was after this ready to be planked on the outside. On the ordinary vessel was generally used oak or yellow pine plank, and about three inches thick. About the stern and stem, where there were quite sharp bends, it was necessary to steam the planks so they would bend to the form of the vessel, and this was accomplished by placing it in a long, tight box and then turning on the steam until they were pliable enough to bend to the desired angle.
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After the outside was planked up the ceiling or inside planking was done. The next thing was to lay the deck, put on the rails, make the hatch comings and bulwarks. Then the bowsprit and windlass bits were fitted in place. After this comes the work of fitting up the cabin and forecastle and deck-house. In a small vessel they cook in the forecastle and all eat and sleep in the cabin, but in all large vessels it is customary for the officers to use the cabin and the rest of the crew eat and sleep in the deck-house.
In planking up a vessel it was necessary to protect the spikeheads from coming in contact with the water, thereby preventing their rusting. The method was to bore a hole just a little larger than the spikehead for an inch or so, and then bore a smaller hole through the plank to the rib or timber of the vessel. After the plank was spiked on, the spikehead was an inch or more inside of the outer surface of the planking. A wooden bung was then driven in and the spike was protected from the water. The planers then went all over the plank- ing and planed the surface smooth, after which the calkers came from Stonington and filled the seams with oakum. Afterwards the painters ยท took hold and put on the finishing touches on the outside. After being painted and the water line drawn she was about ready to be launched.
Now the launching ways had to be adjusted and the first thing was to place a row of blocks on each side of the keel and under the bilge of the vessel. On these blocks is laid the lower set of ways which consisted of plank about four inches thick and about fifteen inches wide. The surface of this was well covered with tallow and then the upper ways were placed on that. After this the workmen took oak wedges and with sledges drove them between the upper ways and the bottom of the vessel. This operation lifted the vessel from the keel blocks and placed the weight on the launching ways. The workmen then went under the bottom and with a few light taps knocked out the keel blocks, leaving only one pier at each end of the keel and she was ready to go overboard.
Launching in those days was quite an event and from far and near people flocked to the shipyard to see the vessel take the plunge. It was a big thing for the small boy if he was allowed to go up the long ladder and be launched in her. If he got there after the ladder was taken down they lowered a rope and he was hauled up on deck. With all ready and the blocks at stem and stern taken out generally she would start. Sometimes-if it was a cold day-the tallow would harden and she would fail to start and then a jackscrew would he placed at the bow, which generally did the business. At times even this method failed and then the order would come for the men and boys to run forth and back along the deck to shake her up. This caused a vibration and off she would go. They had a rope tied to a buttonwood tree on the river bank with which to check her so she would not go across the river. Sometimes this proved ineffectual and she would plump her stern on the Connecticut shore.
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After the launch the vessel was taken to the wharf to be rigged. The spars, consisting of masts, topmasts, booms, gafts, and so forth, were made and bought from Mystic. A gang of men from New Lon- don came and put in the spars and set up the rigging. The sails were made in Stonington and most of the iron work by our local black- smiths. The next thing was to ship a crew, bend the sails, get in the provisions and the ship was ready for sea. The last vessel built here was the three master Waterline. Among the shipwrights employed there were five Barber brothers, Paul, Harry, Erastus, Clark, and Jerad, Andrew Morgan, John E. Brown, Black Peter.
Half a mile below the shipyard was Kenyon's bar, which took its name from George Kenyon who lived nearby. Jesse Lanphear lived just below and in his small boat Blue Bird gained a fair living by catching oysters, clams and eels. Further along the shore lived lived Capt. Prentice Lanphear and his sons who followed fishing, while nearby dwelt Capt. Kiah Hall and his sons and the old fisher- man George Sisson. Opposite Capt. Hall's place was what was known as Kiah's pond, which was a narrow island, built in the shape of a bow and on which they used to haul their seine when fishing. Cemetery Cove is the indentation which makes in below the cemetery. At this point commences the high bank (so-called) which extends to the old Joshua Thompson wharf. As you pass on you arrive at Thompson's Cove. At the south front of the cove is what is known as Champlin's Wharf, the ownership of which has been in dispute for many years.
Early in the last century before the Stonington railroad was built and Sound steamers were in evidence, all the merchandise for Westerly and the surrounding country was brought up to this wharf and distributed to their owners. Many years ago William Champlin, who was an extensive land owner, donated to the public a perpetual right of way from the Watch Hill road to the river. People from Westerly, North Stonington, along the Post road and as far as Cross' Mills turned out and built the wharf which went by the name of Champlin's wharf. At this wharf for many years the boats would land molasses, sugar and merchandise of various kinds, including Holland gin and West India rum. At this time the devil had not invented whisky as a beverage. Residents in the south part of the town carted their goods down the Watch Hill road or over the plains at Jarrent Brook. Those living along the Post road went about half way up East Avenue and used a driftway which brought them out to the Post road opposite the Gavitt or whipping-post house. Those for Westerly, Hopkinton and North Stonington came up East Avenue, as at that time there was only a cart-path from the end of Main Street to Champlin's wharf. By some hocus pocus or squatter sovereignty the public has been barred out from the use of the wharf. and what few boatmen used it were compelled to pay tribute to the so-called owner.
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Around the point below the wharf in the river is a large rock surrounded by a clump of smaller ones which are called the sow and pigs. Below, Mastuxet Cove makes in nearly to the road. To the south Babcock's Cove makes in while Jefferson's Cove is nearby. Near here and extending a long way across the river is the big flats. covering many acres. and with little water on them. Ram Point is soon reached and old Lotteryville, or Avondale, is reached. At its lower point is Burying Place Point, which marks the northern part of Col. Willet's Cove, and out in the river a short distance is Cedar Island. Rocky Point and Rhodes Point mark the entrance to Potter's Cove, which comes next, while a piece below is Foster's Cove, which brings us to Watch Hill.
Along the Misquamicut shore, that being the Indian name of the spit of land extending from Watch Hill to Sandy Point, we start at what in ancient times was called the Old Breech, which tradition says was an open passage from the river to Long Island Sound. It was supposed to have been located a little west of Bay Street, near the bathing beach and enabled small boats to pass from the river to the sound without going out by Stonington. If such a passage existed. and probably it did. it filled up many years ago. Although it might have been thought by some that this formerly was the only outlet for the Pawcatuck, there is not much doubt that the outflow of the water is and always was in its present channel. Tradition also says that from Watch Hill to Napatree Point this spit of land was heavily wooded, and in the great September gale of 1815 they were blown down and washed away. It is a question which will never be satisfactorily decided, although a few years ago in digging for the foundation for Fort Mansfield at the Naps quite a few roots and stumps were found.
A little west of Watch Hill is Gull Point, which formerly was a favorite place for sportsmen to shoot gulls. At the present time, as they are protected by law, they have become quite tame and it is a common and pleasing sight now-a-days to see great flocks coming up the river, sailing through the air, watching a chance to dart down and snatch a fish out of the water. At other times they may be seen floating down the river on cakes of ice, screeching. fapping their wings and uttering cries which are almost human. Although a bird of prey, they differ from the fish-hawk in this way, that while the hawk will eat all kinds of offal the gull will be content only with fish taken alive.
About half-way from Watch Hill to Napatree Point in the bend of the beach is a place called the Old Kitchen. Near here is the Deep Hole, so-called. where formerly vessels anchored to wait for high tide to take them over White Bar which was near Osbrook Point. Following along the beach we reach Sandy Point, which is the end of the south shore. Starting from the head of navigation on the west bank of the river we pass the site of what once was the Sheffield shipyard, where in former times many craft were built. A few rods
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below in later years George S. Greenman built quite a few steamboats including the Golden Star, Julia, Sadie, Granite City, Surf City, Mystic and Hildegarde. Near here he also built the schooner Ada J. Campbell which was the last sailing vessel constructed on the banks of the Pawcatuck.
Where the Cottrell foundry now is was a water way called Long Cove, and just below it was Jack's Cove. now partially filled in. which took its name from Uncle Jack Noyes who lived in a shack nearby. Down near Clark's Thread Mill was Flat Rock. This was quite a ledge and extended out nearly to the centre of the river, and at low water was quite an obstruction to navigation. It was related of Capt. W'm. Maxson, who was commodore of the C. Maxson & Company lumber fleet, that he professed to know the location of every rock in the river, and when he would happen to hit this par- ticular one would exclaim, "There is one of them." A little below here is Major's Island with a narrow passage between it and the shore which is called Duck Channel. Following the shore we come to Gavitt or Bradford Point at the cove where Capt. Timothy Gavitt lived, where also at the south side of the cove dwelt Capt. Tristam Dickens, one of the old-time captains. Beyond this is Stanton Weir Point, named after the Stanton who owned the land thereabouts.
Now Pawcatuck Rock looms up conspicuously. This is a very large rock which juts out into the river, and with the point of land on the opposite shore makes rather a narrow passage, causing a rapid flow of water, thus making a little Hell Gate. There are three juniper trees growing apparently out of the rock. These trees have been there beyond the memory of the oldest of the present genera- tion and do not seem to have increased much in size for the last seventy years. Certain Draw Point, or as fishermen called it, Sartin Draw, is a little distance below the rock and took its name from the fact that the fishermen were always certain of a good catch of bass or smelts. Next comes Granther Sam's Point, and then we reach Gravelly Beach, which is quite a stretch of white gravel and sand. On this beach in 1842, Silas Greenman built a ship of 500 tons called Wabash.
In the forepart of the last century there lived near Gravelly Beach a couple of people of the colored persuasion called Cuff Stanton and his wife Dinah. It is said that they formerly were slaves and that they raised the large family of thirty-two children (no race suicide there) and to some of them they gave distinguished names such as Washington. Jefferson. . Martin Luther, and perhaps some of the females were called Cleopatra, Joan of Arc or Marie Antoinette. Cuff and Dinah were of a very religious turn of mind and would row up the river in their boat as far as the landing and then walk up to the Hill Church to worship. The following verses were repeated about the family :
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Cuff and Dinah being gone Luther got the powder horn Fired it off like a great gun And sadly wounded Washington.
A little ways below Gravelly Beach was what was known in former days as the White Oaks, probably so called from a clump of oaks which grew nearby. Nearly a mile below is Hall's Island, a small spot near Osbrook. I suppose there are quite a few in this society who will remember that in their youthful days they looked forward eagerly to the time for the annual Sabbath school picnic at Osbrook when they would embark on a scow. and enlivened by the music of the band sail down the Pawcatuck to the grove. After landing they would play games, run races and then partake of a bounteous collation of fruit, cakes, ice cream and other good things. After a day's enjoyment they returned home looking forward to the next annual picnic.
Osbrook Point makes the turn in the river toward the Folly. A little way off the point is the Seal Rocks, and still further out is Dennison Rocks. Beyond the point, in a bend in the shore, is Barn Island which is used as a summer resort by the Barn Island Gun Club. an organization of young men. Nearby is Perch Island, and further along is Ledward's ( formerly Elihu's) Island where the late George Ledward built himself a summer home. Off to the south is what is called Rhodes Folly. This was a shoal spot in the bay and at one time was the dividing line between the three states of New York. Rhode Island. and Connecticut. It occurred to a Yankee named Rhodes that as it was right on the border of the three states that a want of jurisdiction would make it a good place for a liquor saloon as it was close to the mainland and also if an officer of one state interfered he had only to move a few feet and he would be in another state. He built himself a shack there but before he did any business a heavy easterly blow came and demolished his shanty and put him out of business, and ever since it has been known as Rhodes Folly.
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Sketches of Old Mesterly
By GRACE D. WHEELER
Nearly the whole of the present village of Westerly was once held by Edward Denison the grandson of Captain George of Military fame. He built his house on the present site of the Dixon House and it was used for an Inn. Later, this locality was known as The Bridge or Pawcatuck Bridge. I can remember, when a little girl getting up very early one morning to ride to The Bridge with my grandfather. Joseph Noyes, who lived about three miles from here. The first bridge across the Pawcatuck River was built by contribution about 1712. The next in 1735 by Rhode Island and Stonington. In 1740 only two residences were here, in 1750 three, and as late as 1800 not over fifteen houses were in this locality. When I come over Hinckley Hill these later years I often exclaim, "How Westerly grows, how much more could a person notice it who was nearing the ninety-year mark.
The first Post Office and store was under the care of Doctor Joshua Babcock on the Hill Top, at the east. Before this the nearest Post Office was in New London. It is recorded that this store of Doctor Babcock's was equal to any between New York and Boston. The next store near it was owned by Mr. Rowse Babcock and later by General William Rhodes. About 1800. Mr. Ebenezer Brown ran a grist mill on the west side of the river but it was owned by Mr. Jonathan Richardson. The various Inns here were simply large houses located on the highway, having one front room for the Bar and a large barn for the horses. The various Inns were kept by Samuel Brand, Jr., who built the two large houses just west of the present bridge. Other Innkeepers were Joseph Noves. Paul Rhodes, Ichabod Taylor, Abby Thompson and Samuel Thompson. Mr. Thompson was a hospitable Innkeeper and a great athlete. The story is told how he would place nine empty hogsheads beside each other and jump from one into the other, through the whole nine.
Shipbuilding was early carried on along the banks of the Pawca- tuck River and was of all tonnage from sloops to ships, some of which did service in the wars. The first steamboat was constructed by Sprague Barber near 1840, and was called "The Novelty." The West Indian trade was lucrative and popular and exchanges were made of produce, mules and horses for rum, molasses and dry goods.
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The red school house, of which we have often heard Mr. Wilcox speak, stood where the Episcopal Church now stands and was where the people also gathered for worship on Sunday. Here Lorenzo Dow hurled the arrows of truth with strange power, and here were held the meetings of that memorable revival of 1812, and here the deep tones of Ebenezer Brown and the exhortations of colored Cuffy Stan- ton stirred the soul of all the town.
The history of this school and the others which followed, would make a book of itself and you, Rhode Islanders, can boast of the first perfectly free college in America. For Brown University never required any test of faith or creed, in the students which she matricu- lated. Mention should be made of the personality of Mr. Ebenezer Brown. He was a talented, eccentric man, a large frame, heavy voice, a great memory of inflexible will, some of his discourses were able, but some people thought him unbalanced in mind. He often spoke in the Hill Church and while denouncing paying salaries to ministers. he complained of not being compensated for his preaching. A word of colored Cuffy Stanton whose words of experience and warning were sacred to the memories of all those who heard him discourse at meeting places, as he was a famous exhorter and fine singer. He once owned a small house and lived a little east of the present Con- gregational Church.
The account of the first Sunday School held in the village was given by the late Mr. Francis Sheffield, and is well worth hearing. Really the very first was held in 1752 in Reverend Joseph Park's Church. The records read, "This society having for some time prac- tised hearing our children read a portion of Ye Holy Scripture and re- peat the Assemblies Catechism publicly in our meeting on Lord's Day. judge it to be a happy means of edification and likewise of collecting money for pious uses and having chosen Deacon Ezekiel Gavitt to be our Treasurer have this day passed a vote to have these things statedly practiced in this place, dated May 12. 1752."
The following is Mr. Francis Sheffield's story of the Sunday School :
In the summer of 1820, Reverend Mr. Rogers, an Episcopal clergyman, delivered a lecture in the red school house. He was in his clerical robes which was quite a novelty to most of the large company assembled. He read a discourse on the importance of Sabbath Schools and religious education of the youth. Soon after, Mr. Vanhorn. teacher at the red school house, made an appointment for a Sabbath School the next Sabbath and the children flocked there in goodly numbers. He selected some of the older children for teachers. (Mr. Sheffield was one of these. ) When all was ready to begin the school, it occurred to the mind of Mr. Vanhorn, that Sabbath Schools were nurseries of religion and should be opened with praver to God for guidance, but upon inquiry among those present it was found that none had ever made a religious profession. In this dilemma, one of the boys was sent hurriedly after a certain Deacon, who lived near.
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requesting his help for this part of the service He came. praved fervently for many blessings, but not a single petition for a blessing on Sabbath Schools. He prayed for all in that Sunday School but not for the promotion of Sabbath Schools. We see the reason when we know that at the time this school was started a large part of the people here kept the seventh day of the week as a Sabbath and more than one-half of the mercantile stores and workshops were in full operation on the Sabbath.
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