USA > Tennessee > The Annals of Tennessee to the End of the Eighteenth Century: Comprising Its Settlement, as the. > Part 3
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19
DE SOTO AT TAMPA BAY.
ranean boundary-the Mississippi-he was the first to find an inhospitable grave beneath its turbid waters.
Sailing from Havana on the 12th of May, 1539, the ( squadron, containing the army of De Soto, arrived in 1589 fifteen days at Espiritu Santo Bay, about half way down the western side of the peninsula of Florida. A de- tachment of three hundred men were landed, and, finding no Indians, they remained on shore all night in a state of care- less security. Towards morning they were vigorously at- tacked by a great number of savages, and forced to retreat to the edge of the sea in confusion. A reinforcement was soon landed, and put the natives to flight after a slight resistance.
From his encampment near Espiritu Santo Bay, De Soto marched two leagues to a village, which was found deserted by the inhabitants. By the aid of some straggling Indians whom he had captured, he endeavoured to appease the ca- cique of the village, Hirrihigua, and invited him from his re- treat to a friendly interview. To this message, brought by his subjects, he replied, "I want none of their speeches nor promises ; bring me their heads, and I will receive them joy- fully."*
A neighbouring cacique, Mucozo, was more placable. At the invitation of the envoys sent to him by De Soto, he visit- ed his camp, accompanied by his warriors. "He kissed the hands of the governor with great veneration, saluted each one of his officers, and made a slight obeisance to the pri- vates. "t
As far as Mucozo, their march had been impeded by mo- rasses, which disappeared, however, as they advanced into the interior. It occupied them four days to go from Mucozo to Urribarracaxi (seventeen leagues). Here they were in- formed, in answer to inquiries about gold and silver, that there was a country to the westward, called Ocali, where the spring was perpetual and gold abundant.
De Soto had received intelligence, that at the village of Urribarracaxi, a cacique of great influence, to whom Hirri-
·Irving. +Idem.
-
20
ACUERA DEFIES DE BOTO.
higua and Mucozo paid tribute, he would find provisions for his army. He took up the line of march always to the north- east, and on the morning of the third day came to the village of Mucozo (thirteen leagues). After marching seventeen leagues further to Urribarracaxi, and passing beyond it, they encoun- tered, at three leagues distance from the village, " a great mo- rass, a league in width, two-thirds mire and one-third water, and very deep at the borders. ""' After several days' search, a pass was found, by which the army crossed it with ease.
Their route soon became obstructed with impassable swamps and bogs, made by the streams of the morass they had just passed. It was, therefore, recrossed by De Soto and hisjarmy. In their march from this place they encountered, again, the greatest difficulties from deep swamps and nu- merous bogs that everywhere intersected the country. In addition to these, they were often annoyed by the Indiana, who hung upon their rear and shouted, in words of threat and defiance: "Keep on, robbers and traitors; in Acuera and Apalachee, we will treat you as you deserve. Every cap- tive will we quarter and hang upon the highest trees along the road !"t
At the end of sixty miles from Urribarracaxi, they encamp- ed in " a beautiful valley, where were large fields of Indian corn, of such luxuriant growth as to bear three and four ears upon a stalk. " This fertile province was ruled by a ca- cique named Acuera. De Soto invited him to a friendly conference. The haughty chief replied : " others of your ac- cursed race have in years past poisoned our peaceful shores. They have taught me what you are. What is your employ- ment ? To wander about like vagabonds from land to land ; to rob the poor-to betray the confiding-to murder in cold blood the defenceless. No ! with such a people I want no peace, no friendship. War-never-ending, exterminating war-is all the boon I ask. You boast yourselves valiant, and so you may be, but my faithful warriors are not less brave ; and this, too, you shall one day prove, for I have sworn to maintain an unsparing conflict while one white
* Irving. t Idem, pp. 104 and 105.
21
DE BOTO ARRIVES AT OCALI.
man remains in my borders. Not openly in the battle field, though even thus we fear not to meet you; but by strata- gem, and ambush, and midnight surprisal. "*
In reply to the demand that he should yield obedience to the emperor, he said : "I am king in my own land, and will never become the vassal of a mortal like myself. Vile and pusillanimous is he who will submit to the yoke of another, when he may be free ! As for me and my people, we choose death, yes, a hundred deaths, before the loss of our liberty and the subjugation of our country !"
As the event proved, these were no idle threats or un- meaning bravadoes of Acuera and his warriors. Stratagem, and ambush, and midnight surprisal, cut off many a brave Spaniard ; and while a white man remained in this province, the natives, with most unyielding spirit, continued to oppose and annoy the invaders.
Unable to appease Acuera by pacific overtures or gentle treatment, De Soto broke up his encampment after a few days' rest, and passed over a desert tract twelve leagues broad, in a north-eastern direction, and then traversing an inhabited country, seven leagues more, arrived at the principal village of the province, called Ocali. It contained six hundred houses and vast quantities of provisions. "Hard by the vil- lage ran a wide and deep river, with most precipitous banks. "t Crossing this stream by a temporary bridge, the army of De Soto continued its march three days to the fron- tiers of Vitachuco-"a province of great extent, being fifty leagues across." It was governed by three brothers. Two of these, after a protracted negotiation, entered into terms of peace with De Soto, and agreed to use their influence with Vitachuco, the other cacique, to accept the offers of peace from the Spaniards. This chieftain was the most pow- erful of the three, and disapproved the terms made by the others with De Soto. He detained the envoys charged with the embassy ; imputed the pacific conduct of his brothers to cowardice, or to a spirit of inglorious submission ; and rep- resented the Spaniards as vagabonds and robbers, and warn- ed them not to enter into his dominions, vowing that "va- *Irving. +Idem.
22
VITACHUCO'S VILLAGE DESCRIBED.
liant as they may be, if they dare to put foot upon my soil, they shall never go out of my land alive-the whole race will I exterminate !" With similar messages he continued to threaten De Soto. At length, however, his two brothers visited Vitachuco, and he affected to be " won by their per- suasions, and agreed to enter into a friendly intercourse with the strangers."
After this deceitful alliance, the Spaniards marched to the village of Vitachuco, and were received with great kindness and hospitality. The Indian interpreters, however, in a few days, disclosed to De Soto that a perfidious plot was devised to destroy'him and his army. Apprised by this disclosure of the details of the plot, De Soto, at a preconcerted signal, fell unexpectedly upon the cacique and his warriors, made Vita- chuco a prisoner, killed several hundred of his followers, and nine hundred more whom he had captured, he distributed as menials to his soldiers. But the fierce spirit of the cacique was yet unsubdued. Though a prisoner, and in the power of his conqueror, he laid another plot to put into effect the me- naces he had made against the invaders of his country. In this, too, he was unsuccessful. He fell, thrust through with a dozen swords and lances, and lost in these two engage- ments and "the subsequent massacres, thirteen hundred of his warriors, the flower of his nation."t
The village of Vitachuco, where these battles were fought, is thus described, and may possibly yet be identified by the physical features of the country around it. " Near the village was a large plain. It had on one side a lofty and dense for- est, on the other, two lakes ; the one about a league in cir- cumference, clear of trees, but so deep that three or four feet from the bank no footing could be found. The second, which was at greater distance from the village, was more than half a league in width, and appeared like a vast river, extending as far as the eye could reach." } The village is called by the Portuguese narrator, Napatuca. The province was likely very fertile, certainly very populous, as the chosen warriors in the first battle amounted to ten thousand.
De Soto, resuming his march, went four leagues the first
. Ining. + Idem. # Idem.
28
DE SOTO REACHES OBACHILI AND APALACHEE.
day, and " encamped on the bank of a large and deep river," a boundary of the province. Crossing the river on a bridge constructed by his army, the march was continued two leagues through a country free from woods ; here were found "large fields of maize, beans and pumpkins, with scattered habitations."" At the distance of four leagues further, the Spaniards arrived at Osachili, a village of two hundred houses. Hearing at this place of the fertility and extent of the province of Apalachee, they continued their march, and " were three days traversing an uninhabited desert, twelve leagues in extent, which lay between the two provinces, and about noon of the fourth day arrived at a great morass. It was bordered by forests of huge and lofty trees, with a dense underwood of thorns and brambles. In the centre of the mo- rass was a sheet of water half a league in width, and as far as the eye could reach in extent. "The opposite side of the morass was bordered by the same kind of impervious forest as the other; the distance across it was about a league and a half." t Near this place, ten or eleven years before, the un- fortunate Pamphilo de Narvaez had met with his signal de- feat ; and the Indians, encouraged by their successes over him, made a desperate effort to gain a similar victory over the present invaders ; and the result seemed doubtful while the conflict was carried on in the morass. So soon, however, as the horsemen of De Soto gained the open woods, the contest was decided, and the natives were forced to fly. Apalachee, the province to which De Soto had been directing his course, was found to be not only fertile and well supplied with pro- visions, but, as he had been frequently forewarned, was in- habited by a brave and ferocious population, who, by strata- gem and cunning, not less than by open assaults, attempted to repel the invading Spaniards.
The first night after they had crossed the morass, they en- camped near a small village in an open plain. The march was resumed next day, and they passed two leagues through fields of corn, and " came to a deep stream bordered by deep forests." Here the Indians had made palisades and bar- riers, determining that at this place their utmost opposition
· Irving. t Idem. -
-
DE SOTO RESUMES HIS MARCH.
should be made. But these efforts were insufficient. Seve- ral Spaniards were killed, others were wounded, yet they passed the stream with ease, and continued the march two leagues further, without opposition, and encamped. The next day they reached Anchayea, a village of two hundred and fifty large and commodious houses. Capafi was the name of the cacique of Apalachee.
The winter was now approaching, and De Soto determin- ed to remain at Anchayea till the next spring. Fortifying the village, and building additional houses for barracks, and collecting from the adjoining neighbourhoods a supply of pro- visions, he went into winter quarters. Here he remained five months, during which time he had received such information of the countries in the interior, as to point out his future course in quest of gold and silver, which seems to have been the primary object of himself and his followers.
The march was resumed in the spring of 1540, in a north- east direction. On the third day the army reached Capa- chique, a village "situated on high ground, on a kind of peninsula, being nearly surrounded by a miry marsh, more than a hundred paces broad."* Two days further march brought them to the boundary between Apalachee and Ata- paha, into which latter province they now entered. On the third day, De Soto reached the village of Achese, and meet- ing with no hostile feelings .from the natives, rested there several days. "He theni resumed his march northeast, ascending for ten days along the banks of a river, skirted by groves of mulberry trees, and winding through luxuriantly fertile valleys." On the eleventh day he entered the province of Cofa, (alias Ocute,) which was fertile and plentiful, and inhabited by a kind and hospitable people, who entertained De Soto and his army five days. The march was continued "through a pleasant and luxuriant country, fertilized by many rivers," to the confines of Cofaqui. The cacique re- ceived the Spaniards with great pomp and kindness, and " imparted to De Soto every information about his own terri- tory, and spoke of a plentiful and populous province to the northwest, called Cosa."t De Soto, however, determined
· Irving. t Idem.
.
25
PASSES THE MOUNTAINS NEAR CHOUALLA.
first to visit Cofachiqui, a province separated from Cofaqui 'by an uninhabited tract of great extent. In passing through this, the army crossed two rivers, "a cross-bow shot broad," which were with difficulty forded. On the seventh day their march was suddenly arrested by "a wide, deep and unford- able river." At length, after travelling along its banks several days, they reached a small village called Aymay, well furnished with provisions and surrounded with corn-fields. Here they rested seven days, and then continued their march along the bank of the river, till the third day they halted "in a verdant region, covered with mulberry and other fruit trees." Two leagues further they reached the village of the princess of Cofachiqui, situated on the opposite bank of the river, and were hospitably received.
From Cofachiqui De Soto started, May 3, 1540, towards the north or northwest, in the direction of Cosa, which was represented to him to be distant twelve days journey. " He passed through the province of Achalaque-the most wretch- ed country, says the Portuguese narrator, in all Florida."* Progressing forward, he reached the province of Choualla, or Xualla, and encamped in its principal village of the same name, where he remained several days. "This village was situated on the skirts of a mountain, with a small but rapid river flowing by it." Unlike Chelaque, this province abound- ed with maize and other provisions.
At this place De Soto changed his route westward, aiming for the province of Quaxale. "The first day's march was through a country covered with fields of maize of luxuriant growth."t "During the next five days they traversed a chain of easy mountains, covered with oak and mulberry trees, with intervening valleys, rich in pasturage and irri- gated by clear and rapid streams. These mountains were twenty leagues across, and quite uninhabited." These waste mountains being passed, the Spaniards entered the province of Guaxule. The cacique received them with great parade and courtesy, and conducted them to his village, which con- sisted of three hundred houses. "It stood in a pleasant spot, bordered by small streams, that took their rise in the adjacent
* Irving. + Idem.
26
PASSES THE MOUNTAINS NEAR CHOUALLA.
mountains."* "The several streams that traversed this pro- vince, soon mingled their waters and formed a grand and powerful river, along which the army resumed their journey." "On the second day of their march, they entered the small town of Canasauga. Continuing forward for five days through a desert country, on the 25th of June they came in sight of Ichiaha, thirty leagues from Guaxule. This village stood on one end of an island, more than five leagues in length."t They crossed the river in many canoes, and on rafts prepared for the purpose, and were quartered in and around the vil- lage, and "their worn-out horses enjoyed rich and abundant pasturage in the neighbouring meadows." (Query. What island did Ichiaha stand upon ?) While at this village the Indians showed the Spaniards how they obtained pearls from the oysters taken in the river.}
· Irving. t Idem.
# The width of some of the streams, the number and extent of their islands, and the names of some of the villages and other localities mentioned in the ac- counts given of De Soto's marches, have led to the belief that he may have visited the southern part of what is now East Tennessee, and that then turning west be crossed and recrossed the Tennessee river. Mccullough, in the map accompany- ing his learned work,(") lays down the route of De Soto's army as penetrating at its extreme northern point to Choualla, near to the thirty-fifth degree of north lati- tude, and amongst the sources of the Coosa river. Choualla was situated on the skirts of a mountain, with a small but rapid river flowing by it. Could that have been the modern Cherokee Chilhowee ! The route had previously led the inva- ders to and through the province of Achalaque. It is known that the Cherokees do not pronounce the letter r, and that they call themselves Chelakees. The nar- rator also describes the country as mountainous, and as answering well to the fes- tures of the country near Chilhowee. The Portuguese Gentleman says the moun- tains were very bad. Herrera says that though they were not disagreeable, the mountains were twenty leagues across, and the army was five days in passing over them. After leaving Choualla, the route lay westward. Mention is made of Canasaqua. May this have been the present Canasauga ! Talisee and Sequs- chee-names familiar to Tennessee readers-are also mentioned, and suggest the theory of Martin,(t) that De Soto may have passed through Tennessee and inte Kentucky.
Col. Pettival, who had been in the service of Napoleon during the peninsular war, and was, therefore, familiar with Spanish fortifications, visited, in 1884, "two forts or camps on the west bank of the Tennessee river, one mile above Brown's
(*) Researches, Philosophical and Antiquarian, concerning the aboriginal his- tory of America.
(+) Martin's Louisiana.
27
REACHES TALISSE AND MAUVILA.
On the 2d day of July, De Soto left Ichiaha, and travelled the length of the island to Acoste, a village on its extreme point, where they encamped. Next day they crossed the river in rafts and canoes, and afterwards continued their march through a fertile and populous province called Cosa. It was more than one hundred leagues in extent. The vil- lage of the same name " was situated on the banks of a river, amidst green and beautiful meadows, irrigated by numerous small streams."*
On the 20th of August, De Soto left Cosa, and passing Ullabali, continued the march to Talise. It was a well for- tified post, "and situated on the bank of a very rapid river, which nearly surrounded it." During his stay at Talise, De Soto received an embassy from Tuscaluza, the cacique of the immense province which the Spaniards now approached, inviting him to his residence, which was about thirteen leagues distant. The army accordingly crossing the river, in a few days reached Tuscaloosa (alias Piache). "It was a strong place, situated like Talise, upon a peninsula formed by the windings of the same river, which had here grown wider and more powerful."t The next day was spent in' making rafts and crossing the river ; and continuing the march on the third day, October 18, they arrived before the vil- lage of Mauvila. "It was strongly fortified, and stood in a fine plain, and was surrounded by a high wall made of logs." } The pacific conduct of the several tribes with which the Spaniards had met during the last few months, and espe- cially the friendly overtures of the powerful chieftain in whose capital they now were, had thrown them off their guard. But while reposing in the village and around its
Ferry, below the Muscle Shoals, and opposite the mouth of Cedar Creek, (the county not mentioned,) which certainly belongs to the expedition of Alphonso De Soto." Ho promises, in the letter from which this extract is made, a plan and description of these fortifications. He died soon after, and this writer is without further infor- mation on the subject. It is certainly worthy of the further attention of the curious.
The information concerning the exact route pursued by De Soto, is so obscure and scanty, that it is difficult to make even an approximation to the truth. After all the speculations and conjectures which several authors have made about it, little progress has been attained in the solution of the enquiry.
* Irving. t Idem. # Idem.
28
BATTLE OF ALIBAMO.
walls in imagined security, they were suddenly assailed by the natives. They had concentrated all their own warriors at this place, and many from neighbouring provinces had joined them. For nine hours the battle raged, often with doubtful success to the Spaniards. At the setting sun, how- ever, victory was obained over the Indians. They fought with desperation, as was evident by the numbers slain- twenty-five hundred. The loss of De Soto was eighty-two.
After so severe a battle, the army of De Soto needed repose. They rested, therefore, several days at Mauvila, to take care of his wounded followers. On the eighteenth of November he turned his course northward, and after marching five days through an uninhabited country, entered the province of Chicaza. "The first village at which they arrived, was called Cabusto. It was situated on a river, wide and deep, with high banks."" To the proffers of peace made by De Soto, the inhabitants replied, "War is what we want-a war of fire and blood." Eight thousand warriors collected to- gether to oppose his crossing, but were soon put to flight by the cavalry, and dispersed to the fastnesses of the adjoining country. Without further opposition the march was con- tinued to Chicaza. "It stood upon a gentle hill, stretching from north to south, watered on each side by a small stream, bordered by groves of walnut and oak trees." It was the 18th of December when the army arrived at Chicaza, and the weather being cold, with snow and ice, De Soto deter- mined to winter here. At Chicaza, as at Mauvila, the Span- iards were surprised by a well arranged night attack from the Indians. As in the former case, the Spaniards were vic- torious ; their loss, however, was severe. Forty soldiers were killed, and fifty horses.
After a few days his encampment was broken up, and the army marched to Chiacilla, about a league distant ; here they spent the remainder of the winter, and till the end of March. "The cold was rigorous in the extreme."
From this place the army marched, the 1st April, four leagues, and encamped in a plain beyond the Chicaza boun- dary. At a fortress of great strength, called Alibamo, was
* Irving.
29
BATTLE AND PILLAGE OF CHISCA.
the next battle fought. It was "upon a narrow and deep river, that flowed in its rear." The loss of the Spaniards was fifteen ; that of the natives, great. Continuing the march towards the north, "for seven days they traversed an unin- habited country, full of forests and swamps. At length they came in sight of a village, called Chisca, seated near a wide river."* This was the largest stream they had discovered in their expedition, and the Spaniards called it the Rio Grande. It is evidently the Mississippi. Juan Coles, one of the fol- lowers of De Soto, says that the Indian name of the river was Chucagua. The Portuguese narrator says, that in one place it was called Tomaliseu ; in another, Tupata ; in another, Mico; and at that part where it enters the sea, Ri. It is probable it had different names among the different Indian tribes. The village of Chisca, near its banks, was called by the Portuguese narrator, Quizquiz.
It is generally conjectured that Chisca, the village near which De Soto was encamped, and which bore the name of the chieftain of the province through whose territories the Spaniards were passing, occupied the site of the present thriving city of Memphis, and that the point where they crossed the Mississippi was near the Chickasaw Bluff. A mournful interest will be excited in the mind of the Ten- nessee reader to know every incident that occurred during the sojourn of the cavaliers near our boundaries or within our state. We copy from Irving.
" The Indians of this province, owing to their unceasing warfare with the natives of Chicaza, and the country lying between them being un- peopled, knew nothing of the approach of the strangers. The moment the Spaniards descried the village, they rushed into it in a disorderly manner, took many Indian prisoners, of both sexes and of all ages, and pillaged the houses.
"On a high artificial mound, on one side of the village, stood the dwelling of the cacique, which served as a fortress. The only ascent to it was by two ladders. Many of the Indians took refuge there, while others fled to a dense wood, that arose between the village and the river. Chisca, the chieftain of the province, was very old and lying ill in his bed. Hearing the tumult and shouts, however, he raised himself and went forth ; and as he beheld the sacking of his village, and the capture of his vassais, he seized a tomahawk, and began to descend in a furious rage, threatening vengeance and extermination to all who had
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