USA > Texas > Johnson County > A memorial and biographical history of Johnson and Hill counties, Texas : containing the early history of this important section of the great state of Texas together with glimpses of its future prospects; also biographical mention of many of the pioneers and prominent citizens of the present time, and full-page portraits of some of the most eminent men of this section > Part 6
USA > Texas > Hill County > A memorial and biographical history of Johnson and Hill counties, Texas : containing the early history of this important section of the great state of Texas together with glimpses of its future prospects; also biographical mention of many of the pioneers and prominent citizens of the present time, and full-page portraits of some of the most eminent men of this section > Part 6
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falling in line with her sister Southern States. Then came on the war with all its horrors, the details of which cannot be incorporated here; suffice it to say that Texas, as she always has done, did her duty. After the war, in con- junetion with the other Confederate States, Texas felt the iron heel of the victor during reconstruction times, but, when General Ilan- cock was placed in command of the depart- ment which included Texas, matters were very much ameliorated, since which time Texas has grown with marvelous rapidity.
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JOHNSON AND HILL COUNTIES.
E come now to consider more partic- ularly the features and history of Johnson and Ilill counties. Together they constitute, physically, what we might denominate the garden of the State of Texas, on account of its soil and climate, and po- liteally they are in active sympathy on account of their topographical relations. These counties, we might say, are strong in every sense of the word,-strong agrienltur- ally, strong socially, and strong politically, although not near so old as most of the Gulf counties. This strength is due, of course, mainly to the character of the early immigrants, bringing those of like enter- prising spirit from the older States, and secondarily to the opportunities afforded them by the soil and climate, and the facili- ties for transportation.
NATURAL FEATURES. TOPOGRAPHY.
The ninety-seventh meridian west of Green- wich, England, and the thirty-second parallel eross each other near the town of Peoria in Ilill county. Therefore Cleburne is about ninety-seven degrees and twenty miles west of Greenwich and about twenty-six miles north of the thirty-second parallel. From this point the north star consequently appears u little over thirty-two degrees above the hori- zon; and being ninety-seven degrees west of
Greenwich, the standard (railroad) time in this county is about half an hour ahead of local mean sun time; but it must be borne in mind that local sun time, not averaged, varies from one to sixteen minutes from mean solar time every year, there being only four days in the year when the shadow of a per- pendicular will be upon the noon mark pre- cisely at twelve o'clock; for sometimes it varies as much as sixteen minutes and a fraction one way, and at other times as much in the opposite direction.
The latitude of Johnson and Ilill counties, Texas, north of the equator is the same as the parallel passing through or near the fol- lowing points around the earth, commenc- ing at the Pacific coast: A few miles south of California and Arizona; near El Paso, Texas; Vicksburg, Mississippi; Selma and Montgomery, Alabama; Savannah, Georgia; Madeira Islands (off the coast of Africa); Morocco; and the Barbary States of northern Africa; the Isthmins of Snez, southern part of Persia and Afghanistan, northern Hindostan, central Thibet and central China (Nanking).
The general average height of the surface of the land in Johnson and Hill counties above sea level is 700 to 800 feet, Cleburne being about 800 feet, while Fort Worth is said to be 1,100. Typically, the surface of the country is rolling or undulating prairie, with slight
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HISTORY OF JOHNSON
skirtings of low, seraggy timber along the principal water-courses, and the general ap- pearance differs but little from all the great western plains from lake Michigan to the Rio Grande. The cause of all the prairies is generally considered to be the practice of burning off by the Indians, either purposely or carelessly, continued for ages, which kept the trees and shrubs from encroaching upon the grass area. But for some reason the timber of this part of Texas is limited in variety and considerably dwarfed, crooked and knotty compared with that of the older States east and northeast.
While to tho casual observer, traveling through the country by rail from northern Illinois to the Brazos river, there seems to be but little change in the character of the sur- face, yet to the scientific eye there are many little curious features to be discerned within the domain of the natural sciences, --- geology, botany, zoology, topography, climate, etc.
Originally, to the eye of the beholder it presented one vast scene of prairie; for what little timber and brush existed was con- fined to the low ground along the streams, and hence was not perceivable at a distance, as the high and undulating prairie intervened above or at least on a level with the top of the timber. The prairie was covered with tall, luxuriant grass, bedecked with flowers of all shades of beauty, and in places re- sembled a garden. The grass was from one to four feet high, and even higher still when it produced seed, sometimes attaining a height of six or seven feet. This tall grass, bedecked with the myriads of flowers waving in the
breeze, resembled a scene at sea at the setting of the sun, its rays shining through the crested waves of foam and the billows, and presenting all the prismatic colors.
A billowy ocean with green carpet spread, Which seemed almost too neat for man to tread, With glittering stars of amaryllis white, With violets blue and roses red and bright, With golden cinquefoil, star-grass, buttercups, With dazzling cardinal flowers and painted cups, And lone but cheerful meadow larks to sing, This grassy sea appeared in smiling spring. In summer came the stately compass-plant, As if to guide the wandering immigrant;
Then asters, golden-rods and wild sunflowers O'erspread the vales in labyrinthine bowers. Thus nature, clad in vesture gold and green, Brought autumn in and closed the floral scene.
The name "Texas" was derived from the fact that one tribe of Indians, the Comanches, called this country " te-as," meaning beauti- ful. This imposing landscape made a strong impression upon all travelers. One beholder, in the exuberance of his emotions, exclaimed that he believed that when the Creator said that his work was good he must have been either in Texas or had this land in view! Another person, upon whom the effect was not so aesthetic, said that the Creator had a lot of seraps left which he threw together, and the result was Texas!
In describing the topography of any sec- tion it is customary to notice first the most conspicuous feature, the water-courses. In Johnson county creeks are numerous. Wal- nut creek, rising a few miles from Alvarado, in the eastern division, runs across the county line into Ellis county. Mountain creek rises near the same place, and extends northeast
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AND HILL COUNTIES.
into Ellis county. Chambers' ereck (the north fork) takes its beginning about six miles cast of Cleburne, in the Cross Timbers, passes a little south of Alvarado and emerges from the county near the sontheast corner. The south fork of this creek, from the same Cross Timbers, finds its way to Grand View and thence into Ellis at some distance from the point where the north fork crosses. Cadde creek drains the northern part of the county, rising a few miles north of Cleburne and pas-ing into Tarrant county not far from the western edge of the Cross Timbers. Hack- berry creek, the principal stream within Ilill county, runs through its central portion.
But the largest and most noted stream in these counties is Noland's river. This stream has its beginning on the divide, not lar from the northwest corner of Johnson, passe's southward by the point where the vil- lage of Buchanan once stood, thence five miles west of Cleburne, and crossing the Ilill county line soon empties into the Brazos river. Its most important tributaries are Camp creek, on the west, and Buffalo creek, on the east. This river was named in honor of Philip Noland, a trader between the United States and Mexico, who was killed near its eastern bank, some time between 1820 and [$30. lle was on his way from Nacogdoches through this section to Mexico, on a trading expedition, when he met a company of hostile Mexicans, with whom he had a severe fight. A passport had been given him, and he with his party had stopped at a log fort, when they were attacked by about 150 Mexicans. Some were killed and the rest captured, and some
of the latter were carried to Mexico. The exact place of Noland's death is pointed out to be on the Il. G. Bruce survey, a few miles northwest of Cleburne, according to one ae- count; but according to another it was in or near the northwest corner of IIill county.
The foregoing streams run during a con- siderable portion of the year, and during the driest seasons most of them have within their banks water sufficient for all necessary purposes. There are also numerous springs, and well-water can generally be obtained at a depth of twenty to thirty feet. The water thus obtained in the eastern portion of the county is soft, but contains more or less mineral substances, while in the western half of the county the water is very hard, being strongly saturated with calcareous or chalky and limy matters.
The "Cross Timbers" is the name given to that great strip of light wood, several miles wide, extending across a large portion of the State of Texas from southeast to north- west, between the Trinity and Brazos rivers, but west of the divide, which is called the " Mountains." It consists mostly of post- oak, black-oak, white-oak and burr-oak. An amusing legend is current that in a former age a Mexican giant who owned all this country leased it to another giant for the purpose of raising a crop. The latter filled his pockets with acorns for planting, and while plowing one day the landlord suddenly appeared for the purpose of taking undue advantage of him, and the lessee, in running away from him, had to stop frequently and sit down to pull the cactus thorns out of his
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HISTORY OF JOHNSON
feet, when some of the acorns would roll out of his pocket!
In Johnson county the Cross Timbers have uh average width of about twelve miles, the western edge cutting the county nearly into halves. Thus the eastern part of the county is mostly wooded while the western portion is clean prairie. The strip runs through the western part of Hil. county.
Caddo Peak, in the northeastern part of Johnson county, is the highest elevation (n) these counties, its summit reaching about 350 feet above the level of the surrounding country. Looking north, one can see from its top, without the aid of a glass, the Blue Knobs beyond Fort Worth, twenty-nine miles distant. In the far northeast and east the range of hills called " Cedar mountains " ean be seen very distinctly. These lie in Ellis and Dallas counties, at least thirty miles dis- tant. Looking directly northeast, a post-oak grove near Cedar Springs, in Dallas county, can be outlined, and that point is at least fifty miles away. Turning toward the south, a high timber ridge obseures Cleburne from view, but objects far beyond Cleburne, dis- tant thirty miles, may be plainly observed. Turning the eye in the direction of the set- ting sun, we have Comanche Peak, thirty miles away, in Hood county, plainly in our sight. Looking southwest, the Duffau moun- tains in Bosque county meet the eye at a distance of forty miles. Again, casting the eye into the northwest, you behold the west fork of the Trinity river, clearly defined by the timber along its banks. Indeed, the range of lands beyond Weatherford, distant
thirty to thirty-five miles, may be seen with- out straining the eyes. From this " grand stand " the red men of Texas used to make their observations.
At its base the peak is about three-fourths of a mile in diameter, and it rises abruptly to a giddy height. The summit is flat and about 100 feet in diameter. Brown sandstone was the material used by old Dame Nature in the construction of this huge pile. Many names of visitors have been inseribed upon the rocks at this summit, some of which are still visible. Some are dated back as far as 1836, and even 1816, but of course it is not certain whether these are true dates or not. The weather-beaten and worn character of the cuttings, however, shows that some of them 1 were made there many years ago.
In the substance of the stone are remains of marine shells, showing that these strata were once underneath the sea. Encircling the sides of the peak are steps twenty feet broad, supposed by some to have been made by Indians for convenience in making obser- vations while sheltered from the wind.
GEOLOGY.
In order to obtain a comprehensive view of the geological structure of the formations underlying this region of Texas, we quote the following, somewhat abbreviated, from the First Annual Report of the State Geological Survey, dated 1889, which is all that is yet authentically published concerning this sub. ject. No detailed investigation of the fossils of this region have yet been made; some notes have been taken by one of the assistant
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AND HILL COUNTIES.
State geologists, but are not yet published.
The two series of rocks comprising the Cretaceous system ocenpy the area of the State known as the black prairie, the Grand prairie and the two cross timbers, and un- studied areas in the eastern and trans- Pecos regions of the State. To these strata the State owes a large part of her agricultural and general prosperity, for they are the founda- tion of the rich black-waxy and other cal- careous soils of these regions. In addition to their agricultural features they are the most productivo source of building material, while aljacent to the parting between them, ex- tending the entire length of the State and dependent upon their stratigraphy, is a re- markable area of natural and artesian wells, ad wen at Fort Worth, Austin, Waco, Taylor, San Marcos and elsewhere. That these for- mations are of great value to the State is also shown by the fact that they are the site of our principal inland cities and the rich agri- cultural soils which surround them.
This is in general a chalky country, and uniquely Texan, so far as the United States are concerned, constituting a distinct geo- graphie region, in every topographie, eco- nomie and cultural aspeet, and one which should not be confused with other portions of our country. It covers an area of over 73,- 512 square miles, or over one-fourth of the total area of Texas, forming a broad belt of fertile territory across the heart of the State, from the Ouachita mountains of the Indian Territory and Arkansas to the mountains of northern Mexico,-an area larger than the average American State and equal to the com-
bined area of all the New England States. One third of this region lies north of the Colorado river, and the remainder to the southwest.
This region, with its many different prai- ries, each covered by its peculiar vegetation, its sweeping plains and diverse valleys, its undulating slopes clad with patches of live oak, its narrow strips of cross timbers, its ragged buttes and mesas, presents a varied landscape, yet possessing as a whole an indi- vidual aspect peculiarly its own. All these features, with their different tints and tones of soil and vegetation, with their varied con- ditions for human habitation, are but the surface aspects of the system of chalky rocks (chalky sands, chalky clays and chalky lime- stones) upon which it is founded, and to which is principally due every physical quality of the country. In fact, it is the great chalky region of the United States.
The rocks originated as sediments of the Atlantic ocean, laid down with great uni- formity during two of the long epochs of subsidence and emergence, when the waters covered this region many hundred fathoms deep. These ancient sediments are now more or less consolidated and elevated into fertile land, which is decomposing under atmospheric conditions into soils and debris, and in its turn being slowly transported to the ocean, where it will make other rock sheets. They now occur in regular sheets or strata, dipping beneath each other toward the sea, while the projecting western edges, cach of which weathers into, and imparts its individuality to, its own peculiar belt of country, onterop
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HISTORY OF JOHNSON
in long, narrow belts, sub-parallel to the present ocean outline. Thus it is that as one proceeds inland from the coast he constantly erosses snecessively lower and lower sheets of these formations. The oldest, or lowest, in a geologieal sense, of these outerops forms the upper eross timbers, those above these make the Grand prairie, the next sheet forms the lower cross timbers, the next the black prai- rie, etc. Each of these weathers into a char- acteristic soil, which in its turn is adapted to a peculiar agriculture. Each also has its water conditions, and other features of economic valuc.
The Cretaceous country of Texas, as a whole, like the system of rocks of which the surface is composed, is separable into two great divisions, each of which in turn is sub- divided into a number of parts. These two regions are known as the Black Prairie and Grand (or Fort Worth) Prairie regions, each of which includes in its western border, north of the Brazos, an elongated strip of timber known as the Lower and Upper Cross Tim- bers, respectively.
The Black Prairie region ocenpies an elon- gated area extending the length of the State from the Red river to the Rio Grande. The eastern border of the Black Prairie is ap- proximately the southwestern termination of the great Atlantic timber belt. The Missouri Pacific and the International railroads from Denison to San Antonio approximately mark the western edge. In general this region con- sists of a level plain, imperceptibly sloping to the southeast, varied only by gentle undu- lations and deep drainage valleys, unmarked
by precipitate canons. It is transceted at in- tervals by the larger streams, whose deep ent valleys, together with their side streamns, make indentations into the plain, but not sufficient to destroy the characteristic flatness of its wide divides, -- remnants of the original plain, or topographic marine base level, which has not been completely scored by its still youth- ful drainage system. The altitude of the plain is between 600 and 800 feet.
The surface of most of the Black Prairie region is a deep black clay soil, which when wet becomes exceedingly tenacions, froni which fact it is locally called " black-waxy." In general it is the residuum of the underly- ing clays, and contains an excess of lime, which, acting upon the vegetation by com- plicated chemical changes, causes the black color. It is exceedingly prodnetive, and nearly every foot of its area is susceptible of a high state of cultivation, constituting one of the largest continuons agricultural regions in the United States.
Johnson and Ilill counties, excepting the eastern part of Ilill, are situated in the most characteristic part of the area. Upon dig- ging down to water the sub-structure is found to consist of a light blue or yellow calcareous clay, called by the residents " soapstone " and " joint clay," from its jointed and laminated structure. The surface, especially of the high undrained divides, is also accompanied in many places by minute depressions known as " hog-wallows," which are produced by the drying, cracking and disintegrating character of these excessively calcareous clays in poorly drained places.
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AND HILL COUNTIES.
The western edge of this chalky region, as wen at Oak Cliffs, near Dallas, at Sherman, Hillsboro and other places, usually ends in an escarpinent overlooking a valley containing the minor Black Prairie and lower Cross Tim- Wwer strips. It is upon this chalk that the most prosperous of the interior eities of Texas are located.
West of the " white-rock " or chalky divis- ion, and generally at a slightly lower altitude, weupying a valley across the State, is a sec- ond narrow strip of black elayey land, of a nature similar to that of the main black- waxy area, and likewise accompanied by " hog-wallows." This is the country east of Denton and Whitesboro, in the Mountain creek distriet of Dallas county, and along the line of the Missouri Pacific railway from Alvarado to Waeo.
Let us now study the five stratigraphie and lithologie divisions of the Black Prairie re Kon more teelinically in the light of geo- logie seience, commencing with the lowest:
1. The lower eross-timber sands, extending from the Brazos river to the Red, are brown und more or less ferruginous, being a pre- dominantly sandy littoral deposit, and resting unconformably upon various horizons of the semi-chalky beds of the Washita division, or top of the Comanche series. These sandy deposits present an infinite variety of condi- tions of eross-bedding, elay intercalations, lignitie patches and variation in fineness of size and angularity of the nncemented parti- eles, characteristic of typical littoral deposits, while occasionally there are found fossilifer- ous horizons. Iron and lignite are found in
the beds of the lower eross timbers, the lig- nite being frequently mistaken for bitumi- nous coal; but it is doubtful whether either can be found in sufficient quantity for com- mercial use. It is probable, however, that an artesian well sunk almost anywhere in the eross timbers along the Central Texas rail- road would yield an abundant flow of water. 2. The Eagle Ford clay shales lie to the eastward and immediately above the lower eross-timber sands, and are the foundation of the minor Black Prairie streak .. Beneath the searp of the white rock (Austin-Dallas chalk) at Dallas, and extending westward through the Mountain ereek country to the lower eross timbers, can be seen typical localities of this division, the thickness of which is esti- mated at 400 feet. These clays in their medial portion are dark blue and shaly, highly laminated, and occasionally accompanied by gigantic nodular septaria, locally called tur- tles. Fossil remains of marine animals are found in these clays, including many beanti- fully preserved species, the delicate color and Inster of the shells being as fresh as when alive. Most abundant among these are oys- ters, fish teeth, chambered shells and Ino- cerami.
North of Waco these beds increase in thickness and extent, forming extensive black- waxy areas in Hill, Johnson, Ellis, Dallas, Collin, Lamar, Fannin and Grayson counties, west of the white-roek searp.
The chief economie value of the ininor Black Prairie will ever be its magnificent black calcareous elayey soil, while some of the chief geologie considerations are the as-
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HISTORY OF JOHNSON
eertainment of means to make this soil more easily handled and less tenacious by devising suitable mixtures, the discovery of road- making material and the increase of water for domestic and agricultural purposes. Ow- ing to its elay foundation, the soil now retains for plant use treble the quantity of moisture of some of its adjacent sandy districts, but surface and flowing water is scarce. Fortu- uately, however, this district is also within the central Texas artesian well area, and an abun- dant supply of water can always be obtained at a depth of less than 1,500 feet. When this fact is fully appreciated the region will become one of the most prosperous in Texas. In the valleys of most of the streams running eastward across the east half of the minor Black Prairie, artesian water can be obtained at from 100 to 300 feet. The source of this water is the lower cross-timber sand. Many of the coneretions and calcareous layers are probably suitable for making cement; but tests must be made. The clays may also prove of commercial value.
3. The White- Rock or Anstin- Dallas chalk, next above the preceding, is the most con- spicuous representative division of the whole Upper Cretaceous system. This occupies a narrow strip marking the western border of the main Black Prairie region, separating it from the minor Black Prairie. The outerop of this chalk extends from Arkansas south- westward through Dallas, Waxahachie, Hills- boro, Waco, Belton, Austin, etc.
The rock of this formation is a massive, nearly pure, white chalk, usually free from grit, and easily carved with a pocket-knife.
Under the microscope it exhibits innumerable shells of foraminifera. It weathers in large conchoidal flakes. In composition it varies from eighty-five to ninety-four per cent. of calcium carbonate, the residue consisting of magnesia, siliea and a small proportion of ferric oxide. The thickness of this chalk is about 500 feet. This formation abounds in fossils, most of which, however, are but poorly preserved easts.
The economic advantages of this bed are various. Being porons, it is healthful as affording sites for dwellings and cities, and is easily applied to all useful purposes to which chalk generally is applied.
4. The " Exogyra Ponderosa " marls, con- stituting the bed next above the last, extends eastward from Dallas, and therefore does not concern us here, as also the 5th, the Upper Arenaceous or Glauconitie, still further east. On the principal ridge in the eastern part of Johnson county the sandstone upheaval is a wonderful water-bearing stratum, while the limestone below it is dry and impervious. At a certain level below that ridge there is an abundance of water on both sides of the ridge showing the existence of an immense fount- ain.
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