USA > Texas > A pictorial history of Texas, from the earliest visits of European adventurers, to A.D. 1879. Embracing the periods of missions, colonization, the revolution the republic, and the state; also, a topographical description of the country together with its Indian tribes and their wars, and biographical sketches of hundreds of its leading historical characters. Also, a list of the countries, with historical and topical notes, and descriptions of the public institutions of the state > Part 2
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723
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
REMNANT OF THE OLD FORT OF THE ALAMO
. Frontispiece.
COLORADO RIVER, MATAGORDA COUNTY.
35
SCENE ON THE CANADIAN RIVER 43
SCENE ON BRAZOS RIVER, NEAR MARLIN 53
FERRY, COMAL RIVER.
63
SCENE ON THE MISSISSIPPI IN THE TIME OF LA SALLE
78
INDIANS
8
LA SALLE'S MAP OF TEXAS.
86
MISSION OF SAN JOSE
93
INDIAN HORSEMEN
103
CYPRESS CREEK, NEWTON COUNTY
113
TRINITY RIVER, SCENE NEAR LIBERTY
123
LAFITTE
133
THE OLD CONCEPCION MISSION, NEAR SAN ANTONIO
143
CATHEDRAL DE SAN FERNANDO.
153
BOWAN'S BEND. SAN ANTONIO RIVER
163
SANTA ANNA.
173
FORT ON THE WESTERN BORDER.
183
STEPHEN F. AUSTIN
193
MEXICANS.
203
SAM HOUSTON
213
EDWARD BURLESON
223
RUINS OF THE SAN JOSE MISSION
233
GROUND PLAN OF THE ALAMO
240
STORMING OF THE ALAMO
243
SCOUTING
253
HOUSTON DICTATING ORDERS TO ADJUTANT HOCKLEY.
263
BATTLE OF SAN JACINTO
269
DAVID G. BURNET
273.
A MEXICAN JACAL
283
OLD CAPITOL, HOUSTON
293
MIRABEAU B. LAMAR.
.303
xviii.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
THE TOWN OF SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR. TEXAS, 1840. 313
DAVID CROCKETT 323
URSULINE CONVENT, SAN ANTONIO. 333 ANSON JONES. 343
INDIAN WAR DANCE.
353
SCENE NEAR FORT MASON. 363
E. M. PEASE
373
ELLIS P. BEAN
383
F. R. LUBBOCK
393
STERLING C. ROBERTSON
403
CADDO CHIEF
413
PLACIDO, CHIEF TONKAWAS.
423
EDMUND J. DAVIS.
433
COMANCHE WARRIOR
443
A CHIEF OF THE KIOWAS 453
BATTLE CREEK FIGHT, NAVARRO COUNTY, 1838.
463
TRADING WITH THE INDIANS
473
RICHARD COKE
483
RICHARD B. HUBBARD
493
HOUSTON AND SANTA ANNA 503
TOM GREEN
513
THOS. F. MCKINNEY
523
JOHN CALDWELL
533
O. M. ROBERTS
543
THOS. J. RUSK.
553
SIDNEY SHERMAN.
563
THOS. WM. WARD
573
R. M. WILLIAMSON
583
HOUSTON PIERCED WITH AN ARROW.
593
MONUMENT ERECTED TO THE HEROES OF THE ALAMO
603
PIONEER SUNDAY SCHOOL. 613
CAPITOL AT AUSTIN, IN 1870
623
RUINS OF LAFITTE'S FORT
633
VIEW OF AUSTIN FROM THE DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM
739
COURT HOUSE, PARIS.
643
COURT HOUSE, SHERMAN
653
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xix.
SCENE ON COMAL RIVER. 663
COURT HOUSE, DALLAS 673
VIEW OF SAN ANTONIO, IN 1878. 683
COURT HOUSE, AUSTIN
693
METHODIST CHURCH AND PARSONAGE, CORPUS CHRISTI.
703
GOVERNOR'S MANSION, AUSTIN
713
COURT HOUSE, FORT WORTH.
723
MASONIC TEMPLE AT PALESTINE, I. & G. N. R. R
733
BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF HOUSTON 853
TEXAS MILITARY INSTITUTE, AUSTIN
745
OLEANDER GROVE, TEXAS.
751
LAND OFFICE OF TEXAS, AUSTIN 757 MARKET HOUSE, HOUSTON 763
VIEW OF SAN PEDRO SPRINGS, SAN ANTONIO.
769
FORMER MILITARY HEADQUARTERS, SAN ANTONIO
775
COMAL RIVER NEAR NEW BRAUNFELS
781
VIEW OF COMMERCE STREET, SAN ANTONIO
787
MASONIC HEADQUARTERS OF STATE, HOUSTON
793
POST OFFICE, GALVESTON 799
CORNFIELD BRAZOS BOTTOM, ROBERTSON COUNTY, I. & G. N.
R. R.
805
TREMONT STREET, GALVESTON.
.811
STATE INSANE ASYLUM, AUSTIN. 817
EPISCOPAL CHURCH, PALESTINE 823
SPANISH FANDANGO.
829
RAILROAD BRIDGE, BRAZOS RIVER NEAR HEARNE, I. & G. N. R. R.835 ARANSAS BAY .841
COLORADO RIVER BRIDGE, AUSTIN, I. & G. N. R. R.
847
1
PART I. · GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
CHAPTER I.
NAME-TEXAS CLAIMED BY SPAIN AND FRANCE-BOUNDARIES-AREA-GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.
T THE name of Texas was derived from an Indian tribe belonging to the great Caddo family. The country now known as Texas has, at various periods, borne dif- ferent names. In old maps that on the north is called Texas, or New Phillipines ; while that farther to the west is marked as Coahuila or New Estremadura. For more than a century the territory was claimed both by France and Spain. The Spaniards were the first occu- pants. In 1522 De Narves traversed the country from the Rio Grande to Mobile. Again, in 1537, De Nisa vis- ited the Rio Grande, entering the village of Isleta, then inhabited by Puebla Indians; and in 1540 Coronado took formal possession of the village, in the name of the Spanish crown. Under the ministrations of the mission- aries, the inhabitants readily embraced the Christian faith. In 1585 another company of missionaries, under Espejo, took possession of El Paso and Santa Fe.
The claim of the French was based upon the landing of Lasalle, with his colony, on the coast, in 1685. On the old French maps Texas is put down as a part of Lou- isiana. The old Spanish maps, however, claimed it as
3
18
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
belonging to New Spain. In those old maps, the differ- ent provinces of New Spain are marked as follows : The east line of New Mexico reaches to the Pecos River, in- cluding part of the present counties of Tom Green and Crockett. The Medina river is marked as the east line of Coahuila, though a narrow strip attached to Texas ex- tended to the mouth of the Rio Grande. In these old maps the Calcasieu is put down as the boundary near the coast, and the Hondo, a tributary of Red River, near Natchitoches, as the line between the possessions of the French and Spanish crowns .*
The ownership of Texas had not been fully settled, when, in 1803, France sold Louisiana to the United States. The latter government wanted both Texas and Florida, neither of which Spain was willing to surrender. Finally, in 1819, February 22, an agreement was entered into between John Quincy Adams, on the part of the United States, and De Onis, on the part of Mexico, by which Spain transferred Florida to the United States, and the latter gave up her claim to Texas. At the period of the Texas revolution the northern boundary was still un- defined ; several large settlements on the south side of Red river were claimed both by Arkansas and Texas. In a final adjustment in 1849, in which C. W. Smyth rep- resented Texas, and J. W. Overton the United States, the most of this disputed territory, including portions of Bowie and Red River counties, were conceded to Texas.
At the period of annexation the boundaries of the re-
*By a royal charter, dated Sept. 14, 1712, Louis XIV granted the whole of Louisiana to Anthony Crozat. Mr. Yoakum and other historians have asserted that this grant included all the country to the Rio Grande; where- as the language of the charter included only the country watered by the Mississippi and its tributaries.
19
BOUNDARIES AND AREA.
public, as estimated by Mr. Smyth, the Commissioner of the General Land Office, were as follows :
The distance from the mouth of the Rio Grande along our coast
to the mouth of the Sabine. 375 miles
From mouth of Sabine, by the river, to 32d parallel. .299 66
Up Sabine river to Red river, due north. .106 66
From point of intersection with Red river to 100th degree of long- itude west. 620 66
On the meridian of 100th degree due north to Arkansas river .250
Along Arkansas river to source of Rio Grande. .640 .
Entire eastern and northern boundary 1,915 66
From source of Rio Grande to its mouth. .2,240 66
Making the entire boundary of the Republic .. 4,530
By the sale of Santa Fe, in 1850, Texas parted with 98,360 square miles of territory; equal to 56,240,640 acres.
Texas is bounded on the south by the gulf of Mexico ; on the east by the Sabine river, up to the thirty-second parallel of north latitude ; thence due north to Red river, thence along said river to the meridian of one hundred degrees west from Greenwich; thence due north to the intersection of parallel of thirty-six degrees, thirty min- utes, north latitude; thence due west to the meridian of one hundred and three degrees west from Greenwich ; due south to the thirty-second degree of north latitude ; thence along said line to the Rio Grande; (these lines separate Texas from Louisiana, Arkansas, the Indian Territory, and New Mexico.) thence down said Rio Grande to its mouth, separating Texas from Mexico. According to Disturnell's treaty map, published in 1850, Texas had, after the sale of Santa Fe, 237,321 square miles of territory, equal to 151,885,440 acres. Later estimates from our own land office give the State 268,684
20
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
square miles ; this exclusive of Greer county. It extends from about twenty-five and one half degrees to thirty-six and one half, north latitude, and from ninety-three and a half to one hundred and seven degrees of longitude west from Greenwich. Its greatest extent from north to south is nearly one thousand miles, and it is but little less from east to west.
Texas, thus situated on the Gulf of Mexico, stretches half-way to the Pacific Ocean, in a climate where snows are almost unknown, and lies right in the track along · which the vast commerce from the East to the West must ultimately flow. The great continental railway is destined inevitably to traverse this territory, and some of its eastern termini must be at some of its seaports.
In those portions of the State devoted to agriculture, a large proportion of the land is susceptible of cultivation, and immense bodies are as rich and fertile as can be found on the continent. This is true, not only of the alluvial bot- toms, but also of a considerable proportion of the prairie lands of the interior.
Writers speak of the stock region ; of the sugar belt ; of the cotton belt, and the wheat region; but in truth every kind of stock, such as horses, mules, cattle, sheep, goats, hogs, etc., do well in all parts of the State, and can be raised with profit anywhere by giving the necessary attention to them. So of the soil products. Every arable acre of ground in the State will produce corn, cotton, sorghum, potatoes, Irish or sweet, peaches, grapes, etc. Sugar from the ribbon cane may be profitably cultivated anywhere south of the thirtieth parallel of north latitude; and wheat, rye, oats, apples, etc., anywhere north of that latitude.
The coast counties for a distance of fifty to one hun- dred miles interior are quite level, but beyond, the coun-
21
THE CLIMATE.
try becomes rolling, with alternate gradual elevations and depressions, and this inequality of surface increases as we proceed towards the northwest, until it finally becomes hilly and then mountainous in some of the northwestern counties. In fact the whole of Texas is an inclined plane, with a gradual descent from the northern or western boundary to the Gulf. Austin and San Antonio are six hundred feet above the Gulf surface, and the country farther north is still more elevated. The highest of the mountains do not, however, exceed two thousand feet above their base.
It seems to be a general impression with people abroad that Texas is unhealthy ; that the climate is excessively hot ; and that foreigners especially run a great risk in coming to a State so far south. Nothing can be more re- mote from the truth, as thousands of foreigners from all parts of Europe can testify. The temperature in Texas in the hottest days of summer is nearly always several degrees below the greatest heat at the North, and while many deaths in most of the Northern cities occur every year from sun stroke, there is not, perhaps, a well authen- ticated instance in Texas of a single death from this cause. But a comparison of the range of the thermometer there and here removes all doubt on that subject. In winter the difference in temperature between Texas and the Northern States is still more manifest the severity of the cold being many degrees greater there than here. The fact is established beyond doubt that Texas has the most uniform, equable and mild temperature of any State in the Union, neither the heat or the cold being so exces- sive, and, other things being equal, this exemption from the extremes of heat and cold is prima facie evidence of a more healthful climate. But this evidence is corrobor- ated by experience, for although certain diseases are prev-
22
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
alent in many parts of Texas, yet the general health of the country is not surpassed, if equaled, by any other State, while for salubrity of the climate all Western Tex- as is proverbial. The whole sea coast, for more than a hundred miles interior, is fanned by a most delightful and health-giving breeze from the Gulf during all the sum- mer months.
It is true that in the heavily-timbered bottoms, and on the margins of the sluggish streams and lowlands, peo- ple are liable to chills and fevers and other malarial diseases ; but these generally yield readily to proper treat- ment. The interior, especially of Western Texas, is an- nually visited by thousands of invalids seeking health ; and those who come before disease has fastened itself too firmly upon the system are generally greatly benefitted.
CHAPTER II.
GENERAL DIVISIONS OF THE STATE-NORTH TEXAS-EAST TEXAS-MIDDLE TEX- AS-WEST TEXAS-NORTHWEST TEXAS-SOUTHWEST TEXAS-THE MINERAL REGION-THE PAN HANDLE.
FOR convenience in describing our great State, we divide it into districts. I. North Texas. II. East Texas. III. Middle Texas. IV. West Texas. V. North- west Texas. VI. Southwest Texas. VII. The Mineral Region. VIII. The Pan Handle or Staked Plains.
I. NORTHERN TEXAS .- This includes a double or triple tier of counties on the south side of Red river, as far west as the counties of Wise, Montague, Erath, etc., some thirty counties or more.
An area of about twelve counties of the eastern part of this division would more properly have been included in the division of East Texas, as it much more nearly corresponds in all its characteristics with the entire body of timbered country lying east of the Trinity than with any part of the prairie to which this division attaches it. The two subdivisions can not be described together, as they are as different from each other as day from night in every characteristic.
This eastern body of country, generally denominated Northeastern Texas, is one of the most interesting and important subdivisions of the State, whether considered with reference to its population, its capacities for agricul- tural production, or its location with regard to the necessi-
24
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
ties of trade and travel, and the consequent construction of thoroughfares. An imaginary irregular line drawn from the town of Clarksville, in Red River county, through the northwest corners of Titus Wood, and Van Zandt counties, and the southeast corner of Kaufman county to the south line of this division, will sufficiently indicate the western or outside line of this subdivision.
All east of this is a timbered country, and presents the same general features. The face of the country is rolling and hilly. The soil is generally sandy, mixed with loam in varying quantities in different localities, and productive in porportion to such admixture. The exceptions to the sandy soil are the ferruginous red soils, quite productive with plenty of rain ; the post-oak flats, and swamps along the streams, the latter two valueless for cultivation but covered with fine timber. The streams are sluggish and discolored, and the low bottom-lands which border them are subject to overflow ; but many of them are covered with cane and various grasses, which afford fine shelter and food for stock, especially horses, which keep fat the year round without food or attention, but are liable to the contingent dangers of an overflow, in which numbers are sometimes lost. The most productive lands lie between the sand-hills and the swamps, and frequently up to the margins of the smaller creeks, and are a kind of irregu- lar second bottom. They will produce, the season being favorable, a bale of cotton or forty bushels of corn per acre, while the upland sand-lands will produce about one half that amount, but are preferred by many on account of the greater case with which they can be culti- vated, and the advantage they have in wet seasons. These lands are in some places underlaid with a stiff clay at the depth of a foot, while in other places in the same field one may dig forty feet through sand alone.
25,
TOPOGRAPHY OF NORTHERN TEXAS.
The timber of this section is very valuable, especially the pine, which abounds ; extensive steam saw-mills being found in the pineries of these counties, from which lum- ber is hauled on wagons more than two hundred miles westward to supply the constantly increasing wants of the prairie section. The other timber is mostly post-oak, interspersed with hickory, black-jack, etc. The bottoms abound in all kinds of oaks, ash, hackberry, and many other kinds of timber.
Water in this section is abundant and generally good- entirely freestone. Springs pure as crystal are frequent, breaking out from the base or sides of the sand-hills, and good water can generally be obtained, by digging, at from twenty to thirty feet ; the exceptions to this being in the post-oak flats, where good water is scarce, either above or below the surface.
Immediately west of this imaginary line commences the great prairie region of Northern and Middle Texas. The "divide," or water-shed between Red river and the Gulf of Mexico is distant from a half to forty miles from the former. Along Red river is a border of a rather rugged country from one half to twelve miles wide, mostly covered with timber, and abounding in springs of water ; but mostly with a thin sandy soil adapted to small farmers, except the Red river bottoms, which are extensive and exceedingly fertile, and subject to occasional overflows. South of this fringe of timber, and with a northern front of from Lamar to Clay County, (one hundred and fifty miles on an air-line,) inclining westward on its eastern border, as before laid down, lies the great prairie, extend- ing to the south line of this division, its unity broken only by the timber borders along the streams and by the two very remarkable bodies of timber called "THE CROSS TIMBERS," which are worthy of a brief description.
26
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
The " lower cross timber" is a body of timbered country embracing, at its northern extremity, the eastern half of Cooke county and western edge of Grayson, and being about fifteen miles wide. Running southward, it passes, gradually becoming narrower, through the east parts of Denton, Tarrant and Johnson, and west part of Hill county, to the Brazos river at Fort Graham. This body of land is rolling and sandy, and assimilates very nearly to the timbered section before described ; but this is generally of a poorer soil than that, and abounds less in springs and water generally. The timber is the same, except there is no pine, and the growth is shorter as we go westward. The soil is adapted to the growth of corn, cotton, sweet potatoes, etc., but not to small grains nor grasses, nor to stock raising, except in the eastern section.
The "upper cross timber " begins on Red river, some thirty miles above the lower, and is about the same width, running south through the middle of Montague county, near the south line of which it breaks up, the eastern portion running through Wise and Parker counties, while the western extends irregularly, and frequently in patches and mots or small groves, through Jack, Young, Palo Pinto and Erath, affording abundant timber (such as it is) to those counties. This timber is, on the uplands, almost exclusively post-oak and black-jack, and is short and scrubby. In the bottoms, pecan, ash, hackberry, cotton- wood, etc., are common.
The entire prairie east of the upper cross timber is a beautiful and very gently rolling country, scarcely broken by rocks, stumps, gullies, or anything else which could impede or interfere with the progress of gang-plows, reapers and mowers, or any other agricultural labor- saving machinery, whether propelled by steam or other power. Indeed, the cultivation of wheat has for years been
27
TABLE LANDS AND MOUNTAINS.
done by the use of such implements, propelled by horse or ox-power.
Near the south line of Montague and Clay counties commence the "mountains," which though not so " stuck up " as their distant-relations, the Alleghany, Blue Ridge, Rocky Mountains, etc., which hold their heads much higher, are still fully entitled to the appellation of mount- ains ; as, though only moderate hills in point of altitude, they are mountains in character, with rocky precipices and ledges and spurs, and abounding in the necessary num- ber of wild beasts and rattlesnakes. Many of these mountains are isolated mounds or cones, either perfect or truncated, rising from a base of table land, on which, in many places, travel by wagons is easy through the entire range to the level prairie on the other side. Some of these hills and ridges are covered with timber, while others are bald and bare. This range is from thirty to sixty miles wide, and extends southwardly to near San Antonio, the cities of Austin and New-Braunfels being on its eastern border; and the rivers of San Marcos, Guadalupe and San Antonio break out from its base. But this is out of our present latitude. Between these mountain ridges are many valleys of great fertility and beauty, some of them large enough for farms of 640 acres, arable land, but most of them smaller. Much of the prairie adjacent to this region is covered with stones, so as to render it unfit for cultivation, but furnishes material for building and fencing, which, in the absence of good timber, will be much used as the country is settled. These mountains, further south, are covered with cedar in many places, which is the most valuable fencing timber known. This mountain country forms the western line of settlement along its whole extent.
II. EAST TEXAS includes about twenty counties, lying
28
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
between the Trinity river and the State line on the east, and extends from the southern boundary of Northern Texas to the Gulf of Mexico. This is the great timber region of the State. Immense tracts are covered with the finest forests of pine, and other valuable timber growths. The counties bordering on the coast, and as far inland as Liberty, are generally flat, and considerable portions of this region are prairie, and admirably adapted to stock raising. Numerous rivers and creeks traverse all parts of East Texas. Many of these are navigable, and furnish means of transporting their lumber to market. Further inland the surface becomes, first gently undulating, and then hilly ; but still heavily timbered, and possessing a rich soil. During the early period in our history the red lands, as they were called, in Nacogdoches, San Augus- tine and adjoining counties, were considered equal to any in Texas.
III. MIDDLE TEXAS lies below Northern Texas, and embraces all the territory to the Gulf between the Trin- ity and Colorado rivers. It has some twenty-five counties. This has been called the garden of Texas. For fertility, the alluvial bottom lands of the Brazos, the Colorado and other rivers and creeks of this division, have been compared to the delta of the Nile. The coast region is flat, and stretches out into broad and beautiful prairies, intersected with a perfect net-work of creeks and bayous, along which are skirts of valuable timber. In the tier of counties bordering on the Gulf is found the best land for the production of sugar in the State ; while in the more rolling counties of the interior, cotton is the staple product. This district has the two large commer- cial cities of Galveston and Houston, and Austin, the State capital.
IV. WEST TEXAS .- In common language, West Texas
29
GENERAL DIVISIONS OF TEXAS.
includes all west of the Colorado river ; but in this division we include the country between the Colorado at Austin on the north-east, and Bexar county on the south-west ; and the Colorado and San Antonio rivers to the Gulf. This division has about twenty counties. It has Indianola as a sea-port, and the old cities of Victoria, Goliad and San Antonio. The physical features are very similar to those of Middle Texas, already described.
V. NORTH-WEST TEXAS .- This includes about forty counties lying north of Bexar, and extending to the western line of Kimble county, and thence to the Red river, including the county of Greer, and all eastward to North Texas. The general description of the western division of Northern Texas answers as well for this division. It is a region of vast extent, and inexhaust- ible, though as yet undeveloped resources, mineral and agricultural. No portion of our great State is filling up so rapidly, and no country on the globe offers greater inducements to immigrants.
VI. SOUTH-WEST TEXAS .- This includes all the country south of Crockett county, between the San Antonio and Rio Grande rivers, to the Gulf; about twenty counties. Corpus Christi and Brownsville are the principal cities. The following description of this division is taken from the Texas Almanac of 1868. It is from the pen of ex- Governor E. J. Davis, who was, for a number of years, judge of the Brownsville district :
" A sketch of the history, climate, topography and pro- ductions of that part of the State termed South-western Texas, being the country between the Rio Grande and San Antonio rivers, and south-east of the road from San Antonio to Eagle Pass, on the Rio Grande, embracing about thirty thousand square miles, is what I propose to give you.
30
HISTORY OF TEXAS.
" Its history is not interesting. After the establishment of San Antonio, (named Bexar by the Spaniards and Mexicans,) a great many years seems to have elapsed before any permanent settlements were attempted in the country between that port and the towns and garrisons of the Spaniards west of the Rio Grande. The first, I believe, in point of time, was that of Barrego, who shortly before the middle of last century planted a stock-raising hacienda at the place called 'Dolores,' on the Rio Grande, twenty-five miles below Laredo. He received at this place from the King of Spain a large grant of lands, some seventy-five leagues. This hacienda was afterward destroyed.
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