USA > Virginia > Orange County > Orange County > A History of Orange County, Virginia > Part 7
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
their beds. We saw a vine which bore a sort of wild cucumber, and a shrub with a fruit like unto a currant. We eat very good wild grapes. We called this place Spotswood Camp, after our Governor.
6th. We crossed the river which we called Euphrates. It is very deep; the main course of the water is north; it is four score yards wide in the narrowest part. We drank some healths on the other side, and returned ; after which I went a swimming in it. We could not find any fordable place, except the one by which we crossed, and it was deep in several places. I got some grasshoppers and fished; and another and I, we catched a dish of fish, some perch, and a fish they call chub. The others went a hunting, and killed deer and turkeys. The Governor had graving irons but could not grave any- thing, the stones were so hard. I graved my name on a tree by the river side; and the Governor buried a bottle with a paper inclosed, on which he writ that he took possession of this place in the name and for King George the First of England .*
We had a good dinner, and after it we got the men together, and loaded all their arms, and we drank the King's health in champagne, and fired a volley, the Princess's health in Burgundy, and fired a volley, and all the rest of the Royal Family in claret, and a volley. We drank the Governor's health and fired another vol- ley. We had several sorts of liquors, viz .; Virginia red
*Governor Spotswood, when he undertook the great discovery of the Passage over the mountains, attended with a sufficient guard, and pioneers and gentle- men, with a sufficient stock of provision, with abundant fatigue passed these mountains, and cut his Majesty's name in a rock upon the highest of theill, naming it Mount George: and in complaisance the gentlemen, from the Gov- ernor's name, called the mountain next in height, Mount Alexander. For this expedition they were obliged to provide a great quantity of horse shoes, (things seldom used in the lower parts of the country, where there are few stones;) 11pon which account the Governor, upon their return, presented each of his companions with a golden horse shoe, (some of which I have seen studded with valuable stones, resembling the heads of nails,) with this inscription on the one side: Sic juvat transcendere montes; and on the other is written the tramontane order. This he instituted to encourage gentlemen to venture backwards, and make discoveries and new settlements; any gentleman being entitled to wear HUGH JONES, 1724. this Golden Shoe that can prove his having drunk his Majesty's health upon Mount George.
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THE KNIGHTS OF THE HORSESHOE
wine and white wine, Irish usquebaugh, brandy shrub, two sorts of rum, champagne, canary, cherry punch, water, cider, etc.
I sent two of the rangers to look for my gun, which I dropped in the mountains; they found it, and brought it to me, and I gave them a pistole for their trouble. We called the highest mountain Mount George, and the one we crossed over Mount Spotswood.
7th. At seven in the morning we mounted our horses, and parted with the rangers, who were to go farther on, and we returned homewards; we repassed the moun- tains, and at five in the afternoon we came to Hospital Camp, where we left our sick men, and heavy baggage, and we found all things well and safe. We encamped here, and called it Captain Clouder's Camp.
8th. At nine we were all on horseback. We saw several bears and deer, and killed some wild turkeys. We encamped at the side of a run and called the place Mason's Camp. We had good forage for our horses, and we lay as usual. Made 20 miles this day.
9th. We set out at nine of the clock, and before twelve we saw several bears, and killed three. One of them attacked one of our men that was riding after him, and narrowly missed him; he tore his things that he had behind him from the horse, and would have destroyed him, had he not had immediate help from the other men and our dogs. Some of the dogs suf- fered severely in this engagement. At two we crossed one of the branches of the Rappahannockiver, and at five we encamped on the side of the Rapid Ann, on a tract of land that Mr. Beverley hath design to take up. We made, this day, 23 miles, and called this camp Captain Smith's Camp. We eat part of one of the bears, which tasted very well, and would be good, and might pass for veal, if one did not know what it was. We were very merry, and diverted ourselves with our adventures.
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
Ioth. At eight we were on horseback, and about ten, as we were going up a small hill, Mr. Beverley and his horse fell down, and they both rolled to the bottom; but there were no bones broken on either side. At twelve, as we were crossing a run of water, Mr. Clouder fell in, so we called this place Clouder's Run. At one we arrived at a large spring, where we dined and drank a bowl of punch. We called this Fontaine's Spring. About two we got on horseback, and at four we reached Germanna. The Governor thanked the gentlemen for their assistance in the expedition. Mr. Mason left us here. I went at five to swim in the Rappahannoc River, and returned to the town.
IIth. After breakfast all our company left us except Dr. Robinson and Mr. Clouder. We walked all about the town, and the Governor settled his business with the Germans here, and accommodated the minister and the people, and then to bed.
12th. After breakfast went a fishing in the Rappa- hannoc and took seven fish, which we had for dinner; after which Mr. Robinson and I, we endeavoured to melt some ore in the smith's forge, but could get nothing out of it. Dr. Robinson's and Mr. Clouder's boys were taken violently ill with fever. Mr. Robinson and Mr. Clouder left us, and the boys remained behind.
13th. About eight of the clock we mounted our horses, and went to the mine, where we took several pieces of ore ; and at nine we set out from the mine, our servants having gone before; and about three we over- took them in the woods, and there the Governor and I dined. We mounted afterwards, and continued on our road. I killed a black snake about five feet long. We arrived at Mr. Woodford's, on Rappahannockiver, about six, and remained there all night.
14th. At seven we sent our baggage and horses before us; and at ten we mounted our horses; we killed another snake, four feet nine inches long. At twelve we
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THE KNIGHTS OF THE HORESHOE
came to the church; where we met with Mr. Buckner, and remained till two, to settle some county business ; then we mounted our horses, and saw several wild tur- keys on the road; and at seven we reached Mr. Bever- ley's house, which is upon the head of Mattapony River, where we were well entertained. My boy was taken with a violent fever, and very sick.
15th. At seven my servant was somewhat better, and I sent him away with my horses, and about ten the Governor took his chaise, and I with him, and at twelve we came to a mill-dam, which we had great difficulty to get the chaise over. We got into it again, and continued on our way, and about five we arrived at Mr. Baylor's, where we remained all night.
16th. My servant was so sick, that I was obliged to leave him, and the Governor's servants took care of my horses. At ten we sent the chaise over Mattapony River, and it being Sunday, we went to the church in King William County, where we heard a sermon from Mr. Monroe.
After sermon we continued our journey until we came to Mr. West's plantation, where Colonel Bassett waited for the Governor with his pinnace, and other boats for his servants. We arrived at his house by five of the clock, and were nobly entertained.
17th. At ten we left Colonel Bassett's, and at three we arrived at Williamsburg, where we dined together, and I went to my lodgings, and to bed, being well tired, as well as my horses.
I reckon that from Williamsburg to the Euphrates River is in all 219 miles, so that our journey, going and coming, has been in all 438 miles.
[NOTE. The distance from Germanna to Elkton, the supposed point on the Sheanadoah reached by the expedition, is about sixty miles, following the roads of to-day.]
CHAPTER XIII.
Physical Features.
Orange is in the Piedmont belt, about twenty-five to thirty miles from the foot of the Blue Ridge. The mean distance from Washington and Richmond is 85 miles, from tidewater at Fredericksburg, 40 miles.
The County is almost bisected by the South West Mountains, so called because their trend is northeast and southwest. They constitute the main water shed, though by reason of their many convolutions there are variations. Generally speaking, the waters north- ward of the mountains flow to the Rapidan, those southward to the North Anna; yet towards Gordons- ville, north of the mountains, some streams flow into the South Anna. At Gordonsville, Main street is a watershed, the waters on one side flowing into the North Anna, on the other into the South Anna.
A few small streams northwest of Barboursville fall into the Rivanna, and thence into the James. With this exception the waters ultimately reach the Rappa- hannock and the York. The very head spring of the York is on the Johnson farm, near the crest of the mountains where the Barboursville pike crosses.
The principal streams are the Rapidan (formerly Rapid Anne, and so named by Governor Spotswood).
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PHYSICAL FEATURES
the North Anna, the Pamunkey, the local name for the north fork of the North Anna, Blue Run, Mountain Run, Negro Run, and Wilderness Run. Black Walnut Run is a name identified with the earliest history of the County.
The chief elevations are Clarke's Mountain, about eight miles east of the courthouse, where a signal sta- tion was maintained during the war, elevation above tide (according to United States Geological survey, from which all following elevations are taken), 1,100 feet ; Quarles's Mountain, two miles east of courthouse, 700 feet ; Scott's Mountain, near Madison Run, 1,100 feet; Merry's Mountain, named for Prettyman Merry, prominent citizen during the Revolution, 1,200 feet ; Watts's Mountain, in front of Frascati, 1,200 feet; Newman's Mountain, near Montpelier, 800 feet; and Hardwicke's Mountain, a few miles northeast of Barboursville, 900 feet.
The elevation of Gordonsville, according to the pro- file of the Cheseapeake and Ohio Railroad, is 500 feet, which is 51 feet higher than Charlottesville.
A vein of limestone, so narrow that it is called "the string, " runs through the County from Gordonsville to the Rapidan, following the Southern Railroad to Mad- ison Run where it diverges to the right, crossing Church Run at the Taylor farm, thence down through "Haw- field," and on to the river. In former years much lime was burned, both for domestic and agricultural uses, but it was found to be of little value in agriculture.
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
Professor William B. Rogers, in his "Geology of Virginia," gives the following analyses, the names of present owners being substituted :
Limestone from Col. W. H. Chapman's farm (formerly Colby Cowherd's), one and one-half miles from Gordonsville.
Carbonate of lime 79.20
Carbonate of magnesia-trace
Silica.
19.60
Limestone from Gibson's quarry (present owner unknown) south side of Rapidan River.
Carbonate of lime.
.90.40
Carbonate of magnesia. 6.44
Silica. 2.00
Limestone from Rawlings quarry-near old Zion Meeting house, two miles from Courthouse (present owner Bowers).
Carbonate of lime.
73.68
Carbonate of magnesia.
9.28
Silica. . 15.60
Limestone from Todd's quarry-near Madison Run (known as the marble quarry).
Carbonate of lime.
.51.72
Carbonate of magnesia.
42.72
Silica. 3.28
In each of these analyses small quantities of alumina and oxide of iron, and water, are noted; too inconsid- erable to be enumerated here.
Payne Todd, stepson of President Madison, wasted much money in an effort to develop a marble quarry, which still remains an object of interest, but has long been full of water and become a local" fishing hole."* Beautiful marble was obtained from it, but veined with a very hard quartz so destructive to tools that it was found to be impracticable to work it. Some handsome mantels, still extant, have been made from it.
*In 1840 the Legislature incorporated "The Montpelier Marble Company" to quary 'marble, porphyry agate, flagstones for paving and slate for roofing houses in the County of Orange." Todd was the only incorporator. Capital stock not less than $20,000, nor more than $200 000.
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PHYSICAL FEATURES
In the Marsh Run neighborhood, and extending from a point near the Rapidan to the Greene corner on the Barboursville turnpike, is a range of hills known as the Blue Hills. Underneath these, at varying depths, is a stratum of plumbago or graphite. So far no mer- chantable quality has been obtained, but a company has been lately formed with a view of exploiting the mineral resources of these hills.
On the divide between the mountain section and the grey land are to be found many fine quarries of a com- posite stone, mainly sandstone, finely adapted for building purposes.
There are several mineral springs and wells in the County, and great medicinal virtues are locally attrib- uted to some of them.
A noble spring on the old "Willis Grove" farm, the part owned by the late Philip B. Jones, Jr., now the property of Mr. Egbert Leigh, is perhaps the most notable. There is a tradition, which the writer knows to be approximately true, that two old ladies lived near this spring to the ages of 110 and 120 years, respectively, and that both enjoyed extraordinary health during all that time.
There is a mineral well at Mugler's station; a well- known chalybeate spring near the old turnpike near the Spotsylvania line; and several driven wells at Gor- donsville are alleged to be strongly impregnated with lithia. "Mineral Hill" near Barboursville, long owned by Mr. James Barbour Newman, though not his residence, has long been celebrated for the virtues of a spring from which the place takes its name; and there are "sulphur pumps" both at Gordonsville and the Courthouse.
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
The general character of the water, however, outside of the narrow limestone belt, is pure freestone, and with rare exceptions of most excellent quality, though in the red land district many of the springs become tinged with the color of the soil in long wet spells. The num- ber of springs is something wonderful, and no county in the State is better watered, so that having to drive stock any distance to water is unheard of.
There are large deposits of iron ore, which have been worked from time to time, and which were considered so valuable once that several miles of railroad were built to convey the ores to market. It was found out that they contained too much phosphorus to compete with the better classes of ore, and the industry has been abandoned. These deposits lie mainly along the verge of the limestone belt.
Also there are gold mines in the lower part of the County, the "Vaucluse" mine being, perhaps, the best known.
Professor Rogers says: "In Spotsylvania and the adjacent counties, Orange, Louisa, Fluvanna and Buckingham, numerous veins of auriferous rocks have been wrought for some time, from many of which rich returns have been procured, and under improved modes of operation a still larger profit may be expected."
He is the highest authority on the geology of Virginia, but as the improved methods of operating the mines have not yet been tried his forecast remains only a forecast.
Mr. James Barbour Newman, who lived one mile east of Barboursville, and died, universally regretted at the great age of ninety-seven years, kept a very careful
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PHYSICAL FEATURES
record of the rainfall for many years. He published, in the Southern Planter and Farmer, November, 1879, the record from 1851 to 1878, both inclusive, a period of twenty-eight years. Estimating snow at nine for one of water the average yearly precipitation was 39 4-7 inches. The maximum was 52 inches in 1861, the minimum 23 7-8 inches in 1872. It was 28 inches in 1856, and only in these years and 1851 did it fall be- low 30 inches; only twice in the whole period did it exceed 50 inches, and in one of these by but an eighth of an inch.
Captain William G. Crenshaw began a record of the rainfall at "Hawfield" in 1880, and it has been dili- gently and carefully continued since his death to this time. His son, Mr. S. Dabney Crenshaw has kindly furnished the following data.
ANNUAL RAIN FALL AT HAWFIELD, ORANGE COUNTY
VIRGINIA.
1880 to September 10, 1907 (inclusive).
1880 inches 26.40
1894 inches 33.55
1881 inches 30.77
1895 inches 38.86
1882 inches 42.60 1896 inches 40.44
1883 inches 38.72
1897 inches 47.56
1884 inches 38.43
1898 inches 45.06
1885 inches 33.00
1899 inches 37 . 37
1886 inches 45.55
1900 inches 41.68
1887 inches 33.20
1901 inches 56.50
1888 inches 49.06
1902 inches 60.99
1889 inches 57.83 1903 inches 48.07
1890 inches 37.84 1904 inches 37.47
1891 inches 48.46 1905 inches 51.43
1892 inches 36.95 1906 inches 57.30
1893 inches 40.82
11907 inches 33.81
Average for 27 7-10 years 42.93 inches.
+To September 10th, 1907.
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
Mr. Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," gives 47. 038 inches as the average of the five years from 1772 to 1777, in Albemarle. Grouping the five years in Mr. Newman's record between 1859 and 1863, very nearly the same average is found.
According to a "Gazetteer of Virginia," prepared by the United States Geological Survey in 1904, the mean magnetic declination in 1900 was 3º 35', and the mean temperature 55° to 60º Fahrenheit.
The elevation above the sea is from 300 to 1,200 feet ; area 349 square miles.
CHAPTER XIV.
Social and Economic.
In the early days, almost as a matter of necessity, the "simple life" was the rule for the rich and poor alike.
There was little comfort in the modern sense, and no luxury. The houses were small and rude, few having glazed windows. All the lumber was sawn by hand, usually with a "pit saw": such nails as were used were wrought in the blacksmiths' shops, and almost every article of domestic use was made at home.
There are several houses yet standing in the County built of pit-sawn lumber and with wrought nails. On nearly every plantation there were negro carpenters, smiths, shoemakers, brick masons, etc., and, generally speaking, all the implements of agriculture, which were few and rude, and all house furnishings, were homemade. There were few books and little light at night to read by; the local roads were mostly bridle paths, and, except on rare occasions, horseback was the only mode of travel. A "bridal tour" consisted in the bride's going to the groom's home on the same horse, "riding behind him."
Visiting neighbors spent the day at least, and "calls" were unknown. The well-to-do got their clothes and wines and some furnishings from England, the poorer
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
people wore homespun. Indeed almost down to the war, homespun and homemade garments were not uncommon, whether woolen, hempen or cotton. The negro women were taught to card, spin and weave, and to cut and make the clothes of the children and serv- ants. The ladies had their imported silks and linens, not many of a kind, which lasted a long time and were handed down to their daughters. The planters wore broadcloth on public occasions, with short breeches, silk stockings and knee buckles. Pewter was far com- moner than silver or china ware. The return on an execution in 1737 shows "a gun and sword, an old chafing dish, a servant woman, a pewter salt, a pewter dram cup, and a piece of a looking glass."
When the tobacco was hauled to Fredericksburg to market, the return load was usually family supplies, and often oysters in the shell, which, piled in the cellar and sprinkled occasionally with salt water, appear to have "kept" a long time.
Ordinaries, where "entertainment for man and beast" was provided, were very common, and the gentry were usually the proprietors.
The scale of prices was rigorously regulated by the county court every year. Thus, in 1735, this order is entered :
"The Court doth set and rate liquors; Rum, the gallon, eight shillings; Virginia brandy, six shillings; Punch, or Flipp, the quart, with white sugar, one and three pence, with brown sugar, one shilling; French brandy, sixteen shillings; Punch of same, two and six pence; Frill or Madeira wine, quart, two shillings; a hot dyet (diet) one shilling; a cold dyet, six pence; a lodging with clean sheets (always thus in the ratings) six pence;" and so on for
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SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC
oats, pasturages, etc. "Ordered that the several ordinary keepers in this county sell and retail liquors at the above rates, and that they presume not to sell at any other rates, and that if any person do not pay immediately that he pay for the same at the Fall in tobacco at ten shillings the hundred weight."
These ratings during the Revolution constitute a fine historical setting for later experience in Confederate times, as a gill of brandy or rum, two pounds two shil- lings; of whiskey one pound four shillings; a hot din- ner, three pounds, six; a cold dinner, or second table, three pounds. The cost of a small drink of whiskey was thus about $3. 50, a price it never attained in the Confederacy.
So in October, 1778, Joseph Woolfolk's executors were bonded in £10,000; in 1779 Reuben Daniel'sexecutors in £30,000; and a negro, condemned to be hung, was valued at $3,333.
They looked after the morals of the people more closely then than now. The church wardens kept an eye on sinners, bound out orphans and the children of parents who did not take care of them, kept down immoral conduct as well as they could, and appear to have been an excellent sort of local inquisitors. In 1742 the court orders the church wardens to bind out Dodson's children, "he taking no care of their educa- tion, nor to bring them up in Christian principles, " one of many like instances. In 1743 Pat Leonard is ordered to the stocks "for calling the sheriff a liar." Next year three men were presented by the grand jury for Sabbath breaking and riotously entering the German chapel and disturbing the congregation assembled for
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HISTORY OF ORANGE COUNTY
the worship of God, and putting the people in fear of life and limb. They were fined 200 pounds of tobacco and imprisoned one hour.
For being a vagabond and cheating at cards Jacob Saunders was ordered to receive 25 lashes at the com- mon whipping post, and John O'Neill was committed to jail and required to give security for good behavior for speaking traitorously of King George and Gov- ernor Gooch.
Presentments for swearing oaths and for not attend- ing church were very common, and there were also pre- sentments for not "raising corn according to law," and for "setting stops in the rivers," In 1741 Jonathan Gibson, clerk of the Court, and others were fined ten shillings each for not attending church for two months.
As late as 1803 sundry people, including some of the most conspicuous of the gentry, were before court for unlawful gaming. They were Zachary Herndon, Paul Verdier, Thomas Bell, James Madison, John Burnley, Willis White, Edmund Terrell, William Hamilton, John Pollock, William Terrell, Reuben Hamilton, George Hughes, Charles Bell, Thomas Barbour, Jr., William Madison, Jr., Thomas Davison, and Abner Newman. All were presented, and the presentments appear to have been dismissed.
Yet it is well in the memory of many people now living when gaming was more usual than otherwise at Orange, and that it was a regular habit for a "faro" outfit to be brought over from Culpeper every court- day, to remain as long as there was inducement.
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SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC
So it is related, in the palmy days of the Orange Springs, known at first as the " Healing Springs, " where James Coleman was licensed to keep a tavern as early as 1794, while it was yet a place of public resort, that gen- tlemen used to indulge in a quiet game there, as was also the case at several private residences in the County ; and no great harm done. Happily times have changed greatly in this respect, and gaming for stakes appears to be a thing of the past.
Militia musters, both company and regimental, con- stituted a distinctly social feature down to the war. The companies had their convenient places of assem- bly for drill, and the contrast between the flamboyant and gorgeous uniforms of the officers and the homespun drab of the privates was very striking. The officers would be assembled for "training" for several days at a time prior to each annual "General Muster," and when that great occasion came the people flocked to see it as they now do to a circus. The appearance of the field and staff mounted on prancing steeds was a tri- umphal pageant, and when Allan Long and Peter Gilbert struck up "The Girl I left behind me" on fife and drum, the martial spirit became intense, and the maneuvres much involved. The new element in our citizenship, as one of the results of the war, has elimi- nated "musters" for all time, but they were great while they lasted.
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