USA > Virginia > Albemarle County > Albemarle County > Albemarle County in Virginia; giving some account of what it was by nature, of what it was made by man, and of some of the men who made it > Part 2
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33
7
11
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
West Mountain. Andrew Wallace was Surveyor of the road from the D. S. to Mechum's River Ford-Archibald and Michael Woods, Jr. to assist in clearing it-and William Woods from Mechum's River to Michael Woods's Gap on the Blue Mountains. Benjamin Wheeler was Surveyor from his place into the "Four Chopped Road" to Woods's Gap. William Harris petitioned for a road from his plantation on Green Creek to the South River-that is, the James-on the lower side of Ballenger's Creek; and Robert Rose, Clerk, petitioned for one from his place on Tye River to Leake's, in the neighborhood of William Harris. The hands of Col. Richard Randolph, Rev. Mr. Stith and William Harris, were ordered to clear a road from the Green Mountain Road near the head of Hog Creek, to the courthouse Road below Mr. Stith's Quarter. The tithables of the late Secretary at Clear- Mount-which must have been at Blenheim, or in that vicinity-were directed to work on the road from James Taylor's Ford to Martin King's Road, that is, fiom below Carter's Bridge to Woodridge; and his servants living above the mountains, together with the inhabitants on Biscuit Run, were to keep the road from David Lewis's to the late Secre- tary's Mill. This mill was on the north fork of Hardware, a short distance above its junction with the south fork. Fry & Lynch were appointed to apply to the Louisa Court, to continue the road over King's Ford on the Rivanna-at Union Mills-from the county line to Louisa C. H. These are a few instances of the care and energy devoted to this important object.
Howard and Daniel were appointed to list the tithables on the south side, and Lynch, Cabell, Hickman and Ballou, those on the north side, of the Fluvanna River. The number of tithables in 1745 was thirteen hundred and ninety-four, in 1746 fourteen hundred and seventy-nine, and in 1747 seven - teen hundred and twenty-five. They were taxed twenty pounds of tobacco per poll. Taking Mr. Jefferson's calcu - lations in his Notes on Virginia as a basis, this would make the whole population of the county as it then was, white and black, in 1745 about four thousand two hundred and fifty ;
12
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
in 1746 four thousand five hundred ; and in 1747 five thousand two hundred and seventy-five. According to the Census Reports, the progress of the population of the county within its present limits, has been as follows :
1790-12,585. 1830-19,747. 1870-25,800. 1800-16,439. 1840-22,618. 1880-26,625.
1810-18,268. 1850-22,924. 1890-27,554.
1820-32,618. 1860-32,379. 1900-28,473.
The population of Charlottesville was for the first time taken separately from that of the county in 1870. Its num- bers are as follows :
1870-2,838. 1880-2,676. 1890-5,591. 1900-6,449.
Eleanor Crawley was sentenced to receive fifteen lashes on her bare back, well laid on, for stealing linen of the value of eleven pence-a little over fifteen cents-and Pearce Reynolds to receive twenty-one, for stealing a handkerchief of the same value. James, a negro of William Cabell, for stealing twelve pence, was burnt in the hand, and given thirty-nine lashes at the whipping post. In a suit James Fenly gained against Samuel Stephens, and Stephens choosing to be whipped rather than be imprisoned, the Sheriff was ordered to administer twenty-one lashes. The grand jury presented George McDaniel for profane swearing-two oaths within two months-and Abraham Childress for failing to clear the road of which he was surveyor. On motion of David Reese, the testimony of John and Stephen Heard, and of Patrick Nowlin, was recorded, certifying that a piece was bit out of Reese's left ear, in a fray with Nowlin. The testimony of Thomas Nunn and his wife Kate was recorded, showing that they had been imported about fourteen years before, and had never received their dues; and subsequently their two children, Mary and Lucretia, were directed to be bound out by the Church wardens of St. Anne's parish.
The Court was mindful to protect its own dignity. For misbehavior in its presence, Martin King was ordered into custody, and bound over for a year, and Martin King, Jr. and James Fenly were placed in the stocks.
13
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
The scalps of wolves were reported in large numbers. One hundred and forty pounds of tobacco were allowed for the scalp of an old wolf, and seventy-five for that of a young one, that is, one under six months old. When tobacco ceased to be a circulating medium, twelve and six dollars were given as the premiums. These reports continued with more or less regularity in subsequent years down to 1849, the last on record, when Isaac W. Garth was awarded twelve dollars for killing an old wolf. Jonathan Barksdale, Samuel Jameson, William Ramsey and Ryland Rodes, are names which appear most frequently in this connection. In 1835 Lewis Snow received a dollar and a half for the scalp of a red fox. The Court agitated the removal of these pre - miums once or twice after 1849, but there is no indication that their offer was ever made.
The foregoing particulars were compiled from the first order book of the County Court, a venerable relic of the past of great interest. Unhappily the records for many years following have been lost.
14
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
1
CHAPTER II.
Albemarle County has somewhat the shape of a lozenge. Its northwestern border follows the crest of the Blue Ridge. Its boundary on the southwest leaves the Ridge a little north of Rockfish Gap, runs a course of south thirty degrees east till it strikes the Rockfish River at the mouth of Green Creek, and then coincides with that river to its junction with the James. The angle at the south instead of coming to a point is irregularly truncated by the James, that river forming its border for about fifteen miles. The southeast - ern boundary starts from the lower end of Scottsville, and has a course of north thirty degrees east to the western side of the town of Gordonsville; whence that on the northeast runs north seventy-one degrees west till it intersects the top ot the Blue Ridge. Its greatest length from north to south is about forty miles, and its greatest breadth about the same distance. It has an area of slightly over seven hundred and fifty square miles.
Its surface is greatly diversified. Parallel with the Blue Ridge, the Southwest Mountain traverses its entire extent at an interval of eighteen or twenty miles. This range is continuous, except where it breaks to afford a passage for the Rivanna, Hardware and Rockfish rivers. Its highest point, Peter's Mountain, occurs where it enters the county on the northeast, having an altitude of perhaps fifteen hundred feet. In its course southward it maintains an elevation of ten or twelve hundred feet until it passes the Hardware, when it gradually declines, and exhibits a prominence but little different from the surface of the surrounding country. This mountain is for the most part a single ridge, and has none of the lateral offshoots so characteristic of the Blue Ridge, un- less for a short distance on the west side of its northern por- tion. Here and there occur low depressions in its crown, which supply a natural and convenient way for roads. North of the Rivanna are three of these depressions-the most north-
1 1
15
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
erly, the Turkey Sag, so named from Turkey Run, a branch of Priddy's Creek which rises at its western base, the next, Stony Point Gap, opposite the village of that name, and the third, Hammock's or Thurman's Gap. Between the Rivana and the Hardware there is but one, the Monticello Gap, which separates Monticello from the continuation of the range, called Carter's Mountain. South of the Hardware, the range bears the name of Green Mountain.
In the northwest part of the county, and still more in the southwest, irregular and massive formations raise their heads on high, which from their disorderly appearance pass under the name of the Ragged Mountains. Jutting from the Ridge near the western corner is a huge spur, denominated Buck's Elbow. Across Moorman's River to the north is another lofty spur, the Pasture Fence Mountain, called so without doubt because it contained one of the first enclosures for grazing. It is a peculiar feature of this spur, as it is of the whole Blue Ridge, that in summer it is covered with a lux- uriant growth of blue grass ; and in former days, large planters commonly owned farms ou these mountains for the special purpose of pasturage. Along the eastern foot of the Pasture Fence lies a rich and beautiful valley, which from one of its first settlers is named Brown's Cove, and which is watered by an affluent of Moorman's River, called in early times its north fork, but now known as Doyle's River. Bordering the Cove on the east is a succession of smaller eminences, Pigeon Top, Fox's Mountain and High Top, while scattered towards the northeast are numerous elevations, some having the appearance of ridges, and some rising as solitary peaks, and bearing the names of Currants, Long, Green, Buck and Piney Mountains.
Just west of where the University now stands is a small range with a higher summit at either end, which was origi- nally called Piney Mountain. The north end has the name of Lewis's Mountain, and the south, Observatory Moun- tain, from its being the site of the astronomical depart- ment of the University. At a short interval southwest of this range, are heaped up for some miles great moun-
16
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
tainous masses, rugged and broken, that may well be termed by way of eminence the Ragged Mountains. These heights are skirted on the east by a range which runs with a good degree of continuity to the extreme southwest of the county, called on the north side of the Hardware, Dudley's Mountain, and on the south, Gay's, Fan'sand Appleberry's. Running off from the Ragged Mountains in a westerly direc- tion is a range bearing the names of Martin's and Israel's Mountains, indented by Taylor's, Martin's and Israel's Gaps ; while south and southeast of Israel's Gap, tower aloft some of the loftiest summits in the county, Castle Rock, High Top, Chalk and Heard's Mountains. Some views of these im - mense piles are truly grand and magnificent. In the midst of these gigantic heaps, are found reaches of comparatively level country of prime fertility, one lying along the north fork of the Hardware called the North Garden, another on the south fork called the South Garden, and a third, the Rich Cove, separated by a slight elevation from the South Garden on the south. The section north of James River is varied by gently sloping hills, and that east of the South West Mountain stretches away to the east as an extensive plain, and being covered with forest, is known as the Flat - woods.
Besides the James, the county is cut throughout its entire breadth by two streams, and is washed at its southwest corner by a third, all of considerable size. In the summer the volume of water they discharge is much reduced-so much at times, that during a remarkable drought in 1806, James O. Carr, who was then attending school at Milton was able to stop the entire current of the Rivanna with his hand ; but being mountain streams, that is having their sources near the foot of the Blue Ridge, or its outlying spurs, they become speedily filled by heavy rains and the melting snows of winter, frequently rush down with the fury of a torrent, and overflow all the low grounds along their banks. The most northerly of these water courses is the Rivanna, which has two forks uniting about four miles north of Charlottes- ville, and forming the main stream. The north fork is made
1
17
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
up near the north line of the county by the union of Swift Run and Lynch's River, both of which rise in Greene County near the Blue Ridge. It flows southeast and south to its junction with the south fork, augmented by Marsh Run, Herring's Run, Priddy's and Foster's Creeks, flowing into its north side, and by Beaverdam, Jacob's Run, and Flat Branch, coming from the south. The south fork is formed by the confluence of Moorman's and Mechum's Rivers, and being fed on its north side by Buck Moun - tain, Naked, Fishing and Powell's Creeks, and on its south by Ivy Creek, runs eastwardly about five miles to its junc- tion with the north fork. Buck Mountain Creek has a large branch on its west side called Piney Run. Moorman's River rises in the deep ravine between the Blue Ridge and Pasture Fence Mountain, known as Sugar Hollow, and runs a south and then an east course, receiving on its north side Doyle's River, and Rocky and Ward's Creeks. Mechum's River has a greater length, some of its head waters spring- ing beyond the county line in Nelson, and interlocking with branches of the north fork of Rockfish. It has also a more tortuous channel, but its general trend is east of north. It receives on its north side Virgin Spring Branch, Stockton's, Beaver and Spring Creeks, and on its south, Whitesides Creek, Pounding Branch and Broadaxe Creek. The Rivanna proper flows south, turns to the east in its passage through the South West Mountain for about four miles, and then runs southeast to the county line, when passing through Fluvanna County, it empties into the James at Columbia. In its course through Albemarle, it receives Red Bud, Moun- tain Falls, Carroll and Limestone Creeks on the north, and Meadow, Moore's, Henderson's and Buck Island Creeks on the south.
The Hardware divides into two forks, which join just above its passage through the Southwest Mountain. The north fork also divides not far from Red Hill Station, the south and middle prongs heading near each other on either side of Tom's Mountain, while the north prong rises in the vicinity of Taylor's Gap. Just before reaching the junction -2
18
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
it receives on its north side Sowell's Branch. The south fork has its source south of Castle Rock, and northwest of Covesville. It makes its way in different directions among the mountains, but its general course is northeast. Its northern tributaries are Jumping Branch and Black Walnut, and its southern, Rapshin and Eppes Creeks. A well known branch of the latter is Beaverdam, which has recently. acquired celebrity from the Soapstone Works successfully operated on its banks. After the union of its forks, the Hardware pursues a southeast course, crosses the county line about three miles north of Scottsville, and empties into the James in Fluvanna County. It is enlarged on its north - ern side by Murphy's and Turkey Runs, and on its south- ern by Harris's Creek, formerly known as Little Eppes, and by Coles's Creek, formerly called Hudson's.
The southwestern line of the county is intersected by the head waters of Lynch's, Taylor's, Hickory and Cove Creeks, all branches of Rockfish River. On the east side of Apple- berry's Mountain are Ivy, Green and Hog Creeks, debouch - ing into the same stream. Two creeks of moderate size water the southern part of the county, and fall into the James, one at Warren called Ballenger's, and the other about two miles above Scottsville called Totier. Both are fed by a number of branches. Mechunk Creek takes its rise not far from Gordonsville, flows southwest and southeast, and passing out of the county joins the Rivanna opposite Union Mills. The sources of the South Anna are also in Albe- marle, located not far from that of Mechunk.
The character of the soil is various. The degrees of its fertility are distinguished by different colors, the richest exhibiting a deep red, and the less fertile a gray. The former prevails at the base of the mountains, and along the banks of the streams. Some parts of the county, especially in the mountainous localities, are stony; the more level lands are free from this incumbrance. The prevalent rocks are quartz and what is colloquially known as mountain granite. A single vein of limestone runs through the county, about four miles east of the Southwest Mountain. In a
19
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
number of places slate and soapstone occur, both of fine quality. Gold is found in the southwestern corner. The soil and climate of Albemarle are well adapted to all the staple productions of the temperate zone, and are exceedingly favorable to the cultivation of fruit. The ravines and hol - lows of the mountains which might seem unfitted for the growth of any crop, are found to produce in perfection the Albemarle Pippins, the most highly prized apples in the world.
Most of the names given to the features of Albemarle scenery, belonged to them from the earliest times. In the patents first issued, the mountains and streams were already indicated by names, and they were generally those which they still bear. Who gave them, or why in many cases they were given, must now be reckoned among the things un- known. Sometimes they were suggested by natural circum- stances, and sometimes derived from persons who were owners, or occupiers, of the neighboring lands. The latter have undergone more change than others, because with the lapse of years the names of former residents passed out of remembrance, and those of their successors were applied in their stead. As settlements were made in different parts of the county at the same time, it has happened that names are frequently repeated.
The Southwest Mountain on which the first lands were entered, was originally called the Chestnut Mountains. It was also spoken of as the Little Mountain. Particular por- tions had local names, for the most part taken from owners or first settlers, as Peter's, Carter's, Lively's, Sugar Loaf, Monticello. Green Mountain no doubt derived its name from the color of its luxuriant vegetation. The Blue Ridge hore that name from the first planting of the country. The early inhabitants called it also the Blue Ledge, and the Blue Moun - tain. Sometimes it was designated the Great Mountain, in opposition to the Little Mountain, and occasionally the South Mountain, in opposition to the North Mountain on the west side of the Valley. Buck's Elbow and Pasture Fence-at first Smith's Pasture Fence-Mountain have always been so called.
20
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Brown's Gap and Brown's Cove were named from the family that largely settled the land in that region. Turk's Gap was first called Jameson's, and Jarman's bore the name of Woods' -all from families who lived near by. Rockfish Gap has always had that name, acquiring it from the river which rises in part at its base. Pigeon Top was once called Jameson's Mountain, and may have obtained its later name from a roost of that bird. Fox's Mountain took its name from a family that lived on it, and High Top from its lofty peak. Currant's and Webb's Mountains were named from persons who pos- sessed the adjoining lands, and Buck Mountain, and the Creek of the same name, from the abundance of deer that roamed the forests. Piney Mountain was first called Poin - dexter's, from the man who entered the land at its foot. Yel - low Mountain at one time went by the name of Epperson's. Castle Rock was so denominated from its huge towering form, Chalk Mountain from the light-colored rocks which face its crest, and Heard's, Appleberry's, Fan's, Gay's, Dudley's, from primitive settlers in their vicinity. In early times the Mountains north of Moorman's River, and south of Me- chum's, were called Ragged, from their disordered appear- ance, and not from the garments of their inhabitants, as has sometimes been suggested.
The Hardware River has always borne that name. Rivanna was in use from the first, according to the fashion then in vogue, of honoring Queen Anne with the names of rivers recently discovered. In the earliest patents and deeds it was more frequently called the north fork of the James, as the James above the Rivanna passed under the name of the South Fork, or more euphuistically, the Fluvanna. In some in- stances the Rivanna was simply termed the North River, and the Fluvanna the South. The crossing of the Rivanna at the Free Bridge was known at the beginning of the century as Moore's Ford, or Lewis' Ferry, according to the stage of water, and its north fork was sometimes called, down to a quite recent date, the Little River. Red Bud was first named Key's Mill Creek, or Swamp. In early days, swamp seemed to be interchangeable with creek, no doubt from the rubbish
21
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
of logs and leaves which for ages had obstructed the channels of the smaller streams. Priddy's, Buck Mountain and Rocky Creeks, and Jacob's and Piney Runs, had those designations from the beginning. The names of Meadow and Ivy Creeks obtained from the earliest times. Moorman's River was named from Thomas Moorman, one of the first patentees on its banks, and Mechum's, from a George Mechum, who was an owner of land near its head. The north fork of Mechum's was called Stockton's Creek, and its south fork, now re- garded as the main stream, Stockton's Mill Creek, from a numerous family occupying their margins. The middle fork was always termed Virgin Spring Branch. Union Run was first named Mountain Falls Creek; afterwards, from being a favorite feeding place of the wagoners who brought their produce to Milton, it acquired the name of Camping Branch. Carroll's Creek was the original title of that stream. Limestone was first called Plum Tree Branch, then Scales Creek, and finally its present name, from wash- ing the only vein of limestone in the county. Buck Island Creek was so designated from the beginning. It is a mis - take to write it Buckeyeland, as if derived from the deer ยท eyed tree. The name was taken from an island in the Rivanna opposite its mouth, and as in the case of so many objects of natural scenery, was suggested by the great numbers of Y deer found everywhere in the country. There were two other tributaries of the Rivanna below Milton in early times, though their names are never heard at present, Henderson's _and Miller's Branches. Moore's Creek has been so called from the first. The same is true of Biscuit Run; but the names of its branches, Plum Orchard on the east, and Cow Branch on the west, have slipped from the memory of men. A small prong of Moore's above Biscuit Run once had the name of Edge's Creek; it is forgotten now.
There were three Beaverdams in the county, one running into Mechunk, another into Lynch's River, and the third into Eppes Creek. Besides Ivy Creek that passes the depot ot that name, there is another which empties into Rockfish. An affluent of Priddy's Creek, and one of Ballenger's, were
22
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
both called Wolf Trap. Wolf Pit was a branch of Beaver Creek, and a cavity on the west side of South West Mountain had the same name. Piney Mountain was the designation, not only of the present mountain of that name, but also of Lewis's Mountain near the University and of an eminence near Afton. A branch of the lower Rockfish was called Buck Island, besides the stream so named that flows into the Rivanna. A Turkey Run empties into Priddy's Creek, and another of the name enters the Hardware. There were three Round Top Mountains, one in the Buck Mountain region, another not far from Batesville, and another near the Uni- versity.
Whitehall was an election precinct under the successive names of Glenn's Store, William Maupin's Store, Maupin's Tavern, Miller's Tavern, Shumate's Tavern, till at length the present name was established about 1835. For a long time Batesville went by the name of Oliver's Store. Mechum's Depot was anciently known as Jarman's Mill, and afterwards as Walker's Mill. Ivy Depot was formerly called Woodville. The name of Glendower at first was Scott's Mill, then Dyer's, and then Dawson's. Woodridge was for many years denom- inated McGehee's Old Field. Besides Stony Point on the Barboursville Road, there was a Stony Point not far from Scottsville. Free Union formerly went by the name of Nixville, and is still so spoken of by the older citizens. Petersburg is the appellation of a hamlet on Priddy's Creek between the Southern Railroad and the Barboursville Road. Cartersburg is a straggling collection of houses on the hill south of Rio Bridge. Brownton and Lemon Hill stand for places not far from Glendower.
As already intimated, the former denizens of the forest were frequently alluded to in the names by which objects were distinguished. When the county was first occupied, game of every kind abounded. Traces of the buffalo still remained. A trail is said to have run up Rockfish River to the Gap of that name. It is also reported that the old Richard Woods Road closely followed a buffalo trail. A tract of land belonging to the Webb entry, sold in 1769 to Isaac
23
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Davis, and lying on the north fork of the Rivanna, is de- scribed as adjoining Buffalo Meadow. A branch of Buck Mountain Creek was called Elk Run. Deer were exceedingly plentiful. A tradition, which descended from one of the first settlers near the Blue Ridge, states, that by stepping from his door almost any morning, he was able to shoot a deer. From this circumstance it arose that the word Buck so frequently forms part of the names of the county. Lick Run was a branch of Beaverdam in its northern part. Bears were found, not only as they still are in the deep ravines of the Blue Ridge, but also in every neighborhood. Near the Rich Cove were Bear Creek, and Red Bear Hollow. Benja- min Brown devised to his son Bezaleel the Bear cornfield. In a deed of 1789, conveying land north of Stony Point, one of the lines passed by "the Bear Spring on the road." As late as 1823, it was stated, that Henry Bruce with two other men, killed on the Blue Ridge twelve fine fat bears in fifteen days. As previously mentioned, an exterminating war was waged from the beginning against wolves. A prong of Green Creek bore the name of Black Fox Branch. Beaver and Beaverdamn Creeks were connected with every leading stream of the county. In the first times flocks of turkeys thronged the woods, and every fall and spring wild ducks and geese darkened the rivers. Tradition refers to more than one pigeon roost, where great limbs of trees were broken down by the countless numbers of that bird. Before the construc- tion of dams, fish of the best kinds, shad and herring, ascended the water courses. Dr. William Cabell derived a considerable revenue from his fisheries on James River, and fine shad, taken from the Rivanna, were often seen on the tables of the early inhabitants.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.