USA > Virginia > Washington County > Washington County > History of southwest Virginia, 1746-1786, Washington County, 1777-1870 > Part 71
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April 13th. We went four miles to a large Creek, which we called Cedar Creek, being a Branch of Bear Grass, and from thence Six miles to Cave Gap, the land being level. On the North side of the Gap is a large Spring. which falls very fast, and just above the Spring is a small Entrance to a large Cave, which the Spring runs through, and there is a constant Stream of Cool air issuing out. The Spring is sufficient to turn a Mill. Just at the foot of the Hill is a Laurel Thicket, and the Spring Water runs through it. On the South side is a plain Indian Road. On the top of the Ridge are Laurel Trees marked with Crosses, others blazed and
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Southwest Virginia, 1746-1786.
several Figures on them. As I went down on the other Side, I soon came to some Laurel in the head of a Branch. A Beech stands on the left hand on which I cut my name. This Gap may be seen at a considerable dis- tance, and there is no other that I know of, except one about two miles to the North of it, which does not appear to be so low as the other. The Mountain on the North Side of the Gap is very Steep and Rocky, but on the South Side it is not so. We called it Steep Ridge. At the foot of the hill on the North West Side we came to a Branch, that made a great deal of flat Land. We kept down it 2 miles, Several other Branches coming in to make it a large Creek, and we called it Flat Creek. We camped on the Bank where we found very good Coal. I did not See any Lime Stone be- yond this Ridge. We rode 13 miles this day.
April 14th. We kept down the Creek 5 miles Chiefly along the Indian Road.
15th. Easter Sunday. Being in bad grounds for our Horses. we moved 7 miles along the Indian Road, to Clover Creek. Clover and Hop Vines are plenty here.
April 16th. Rai(n). I made a pair of Indian Shoes, those I brought out being bad.
17th. Still rain. I went down the Creek a hunting and found that it went into a River about a mile below our Camp. This, which is Flat Creek and some others joined, I called Cumberland River.
18th. Still Cloudy. We kept down the Creek to the River along the In- dian Road to where it crosses. Indians lived about this Ford Some years ago. We kept on down the South Side. After riding 5 miles from our Camp, we left the River, it being very crooked. In riding 3 miles we came on it again. It is about 60 or 70 yards wide. We rode 8 ( ?) miles this day.
19th. We left the River but in four miles we came on it again at the Mouth of Licking Creek, which we went up and down another. In the Fork of Licking Creek is a Lick much used by Buffaloes and many large Roads lead to it. This afternoon Ambrose Powell was bit by a Bear in his Knee. We rode 7 miles this day.
20th. We kept down the Creek 2 miles to the River again. It appears not any wider here than at the mouth of Clover Creek, but much deeper. I thought it proper to cross the River and began a bark Canoe.
April 21st. We finished the Canoe and tryed her. About noon it began to thunder, lighten, hail and rain prodigiously and continued about 2 hours.
22nd. The Sabbath. One of the horses was found unable to walk this morning. I then propos'd that with 2 of the Company I would proceed, and the other three should Continue here till our return, which was agreed to and Lots were drawn to determine who should go, they all being de- sirous of it. Ambrose Powell and Colby Chew were the fortunate Persons.
23rd. Having carried our Baggage over in the bark Canoe and Swum our horses, we all crossed the River. Then Ambrose Powell, Colby Chew and I departed. Leaving the others to provide and salt some Bear, build an house, and plant some Peach Stones and Corn. We travelled about 12
Washington County, 1777-1870.
miles and encamped on Crooked Creek. The mountains are very small hereabouts and here is a great deal of flat Land. We got through the Coal to-day.
April 24th. We kept on Westerly 18 miles, got Clear of the mountains and found the Land poor and the woods very Thick beyond them, and Laurel & Ivy in and near the Branches. Our Horses suffered very much here for want of food. This day we Came on the fresh Track of 7 or S Indians, but could not overtake them.
25th. We kept on West 5 miles, the Land continuing much the Same, the Laurel rather growing worse, and the food scarcer. I got up a tree on a Ridge and saw the Growth of the Land much the same as Far as my Sight could reach. I then concluded to return to the rest of my Company. I kept on my track 1 mile then turn'd Southerly & went to Cumberland River at the mouth of a water Course, that I named Rocky Creek.
26th. The River is 150 yards wide and appears to be navigable from this place almost to the mouth of Clover Creek. Rocky Creek runs within 40 vards of the River Bank then turns off, and runs up the River, surround- ing about 25 acres of Land before it falls into the River. The Banks of the River and Creek are a sufficient Fence almost all the way. On the Lower Side of the mouth of the Creek is an Ash marked T. W., a Red Oak A. P., a white Hickory C. C., besides several Trees blazed Several ways with 3 Chops over each blaze. We went up the North Side of the River 8 miles, and Camped on a Small Branch. A Bear Broke one of my Dogs forelegs.
April 27th. We crossed Indian Creek and went down Meadow Creek to the River. There Comes in another from the Southward as big as this we are on. Below the mouth of this Creek and above the mouth are the remains of Several Indian Cabins and amongst them a round Hill made by Art about 20 feet high and 60 over the Top. We went up the River, and Camped on the Bank.
28th. We kept up the River to our Company whom we found all well, but the lame Horse was as bad as we left him, and another had been bit in the Nose by a Snake. I rub'd the wounds with Bear's oil, and gave him a drench of the same and another of the decoction of Rattle Snake root some time after. The People I left had built a House 12 by S. cleared and broke up some ground & planted Corn and Peach Stones. They also had killed several Bears and cured the meat. This day Colby Chew and his Horse fell down the Bank. I bled and gave him Volatile drops, & he soon recovered.
April 29th. The Sabbath. The bitten Horse is better. 3 quarters of a mile below the House is a Pond in the Low Ground of the River, a Quarter of a mile in Length and 200 yds. wide much frequented by Fowl.
30th. I blazed a way from our House to the River. On the other side of the River is a large Elm cut down and barked about 20 feet and an- other standing just by it with the bark cut around at the root and about 15 feet above. About 200 yards below this is a white Hickory Barked about 15 feet. The depth of water here, when the lowest that I have seen
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it, is about 7 'or 8 feet, the Bottom of the River Sandy, ye Banks very high, & the Current very slow. The bitten Horse being much mended, we set off and left the lame one. He is white, branded on the near But- tock with a swivil Stirrup Iron, and is old. We left the River and having Crossed Several Hills and Branches, Camped in a Valley North from the House.
May Ist. Another Horse being bit, I applyed Bear's Oil as before men- tioned. We got to Powell's River in the afternoon and went down it along an Indian Road, much frequented, to the mouth of a Creek on the West side of the River, where we camped. The Indian Road goes up the Creek, and I think it is that Which goes through Cave Gap.
2nd. We kept down the River. At the mouth of a Creek that comes in on the East side is a Lick, and I believe there was a hundred Buffaloes at it. About 2 o'clock we had a Shower of rain. We camped on the River, which is very crooked.
May 3rd. We crossed a narrow Neck of Land, came on the River again and kept down it to an Indian Camp, that had been built this Spring, and in it we took up our Quarters. It began to rain about Noon and continued until Night.
4th. We crossed a narrow Neck of Land and came on the River again, which we kept down till it turn'd to the Westward, we then left it, and went up a Creek, which we Called Colby's Creek. The River is about 50 yards over where we left it.
5th. We got to Tomlison's River, which is about the size of Powell's River, and I cut my name on a Beech, that stands on the North Side of the River. Here is plenty of Coal in the South Bank opposite to our Camp.
6th. The Sabbath. I saw Goslings, which shows that Wild Geese stay here all the year. Ambrose Powell had the misfortune to sprain his well knee.
7th. We went down Tomlison's River the Land being very broken and our way embarrassed by trees, that had been blown down about 2 years ago.
May 8th. We went up a Creek on the North Side of the River.
9th. We got to Lawlesse's River which is much like the others. The Mountains here are very Steep and on Some of them there is Laurel and Ivy. The tops of the Mountains are very Rocky and some part of the Rocks seem to be composed of Shells, Nuts and many other Substances petrified and cemented together with a kind of Flint. We left the River and after travelling some Miles we got among Trees that had been blown down about 2 years, and were obliged to go down a Creek to the River again, the Small Branches and Mountains being impassable.
10th. We Staid on the River, and dressed an Elk skin to make Indian Shoes-most of ours being quite worn out.
11th. We left the River, found the Mountains very bad, and got to a Rock by the side of a Creek sufficient to shelter 200 men from Rain.
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Washington County, 1777-1870.
Finding it so convenient, we concluded to stay and put our Elk skin in order for shoes and make them.
12th. Under the Rock is a Soft Kind of Stone almost like Alum in taste: below it a Layer of Coal about. 12 inches thick and white Clay under that. I called the Run Alum Creek. I have observed several mornings past, that the Trees begin to drip just before day & continue dripping till about Sun rise, as if it rain'd slowly. We had some rain this day.
13th. The Sabbath.
14th. When our Elk Skin was prepared we had lost every Awl that we had brought out, and I made one with the Shank of an old Fishing hook, the other People made two of Horse Shoe Nailes, and with these we made our Shoes or Moccosons. We wrote several of our Names with Coal under the Rock, & I wrote our names, the time of our comeing and leaving this place on paper and stuck it m to the Rock with Mortar, and then set off. We Crossed Hughes's River and Lay on a large Branch of it. There is no dew this morning but a shower of Rain about 6 oclock. The River is about 50 yards wide.
May 15th. Laurel and Ivy increase upon us as we go up the Branch. About noon it began to rain & we took up our Quarters in a Valley be- tween very Steep Hills.
16th. We crossed Several Ridges and Branches. About two in the after- noon, I was taken with a Violent Pain in my Hip.
17th. Laurel and Ivy are very plentiful and the Hills still very steep. The Woods have been burnt some years past, and are now very thick, the Timber being almost all kill'd. We Camped on a Branch of Naked Creek. The pain in my Hip is something asswaged.
18th. We went up Naked Creek to the head and had a plain Buffalo Road most of the way. From thence we proceeded down Wolf Creek and on it we Camped.
19th. We kept down ye Creek to Hunting Creek, which we crossed and left. It rained most of the afternoon.
May 20th. The Sabbath. It began to Rain about Noon and continued till next day.
21st. Left off raining about 8. We crossed several Ridges and Small Branches & Camped on a Branch of Hunting Creek. In the Evening it rained very hard.
22nd. We went down the Branch to Hunting Creek & kept it to Milley's River.
23rd. We attempted to go down the River but could not. We then' Crossed Hunting Creek and attempted to go up the River but could not. It being very deep we began a Bark Canoe. The River is about 90 or 100 yards wide. I blazed several Trees in the Fork and marked T. W. on a Sycamore Tree 40 feet around. It has a large Hole on the N: W: side about 20 feet from the Ground and is divided into 3 Branches just by the hole, and it stands about 80 yards above the mouth of Hunting Creek.
May 24th. We finished the Canoe and crossed the River about noon, and I marked a Sycamore 30 feet round and several Beeches on the North side
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of the River opposite to the mouth of the Creek. Game is very scarce .hereabouts.
25th. It began to rain before day and continued till about noon. We travelled about 4 miles on a Ridge and Camped on a small Branch.
26th. We kept down the Branch almost to the River, and up a Creek, and then along a Ridge till our Dogs roused a large Buck Elk, Which we fol- lowed down to a Creek. He killed Ambrose Powell's Dog in the Chase, and we named the Run Tumbler's Creek, the Dog being of that Name.
27th. The Sabbath.
28th. Cloudy. We could not get our Horses till almost Night, when we went down the Branch. We lay on to the main Creek, and turn'd up it.
May 29th. We proceeded up the Creek 7 miles, and then took a North Branch & went up it five miles and then encamped on it.
30th. We went to the head of the Branch we lay on 12 miles. A shower of Rain fell this day. The Woods are burnt fresh about here and are the only fresh burnt Woods we have seen these Six Weeks.
31st. We crossed 2 Mountains and Camped just by a Wolf's Den. They were very impudent and after they had been twice shot at, they kept howling about the Camp. It rained till Noon this day.
June ye Ist. We found the Wolf's Den and caught 4 of the young ones. It rained this morning. We went up a Creek, crossed a mountain and went through a Gap, and then, camped on the head of A Branch.
2nd. We went down the Branch to a River 70 yards wide, which I called Frederick's River. We kept up it a half a mile to a Ford, where we crossed and proceeded upon the North Side 3 miles. It rained most of the after- noon. Elks are very plenty on this River.
June 3rd. Whit-Sunday. It rained most of the day.
4th. I blazed several trees four ways on the outside of the low Grounds by a Buffalo Road, and marked my Name on several Beech Trees. Also I marked some by the River side just below a "mossing" place with an Island in it. We left the River about 10 o'clock & got to Falling Creek, and went up it till 5 in the afternoon, when a very black Cloud appear- ing, we turn'd out our Horses, got tent Poles up, and were just stretching a Tent, when it began to rain and hail, and was succeeded by a violent Wind which Blew down our Tent & a great many Trees about it, several large ones within 30 yds. of the Tent. We all left the place in confusion and ran different ways for shelter. After the Storm was over, we met at the Tent, and found all safe.
5th. There was a violent Shower of Rain before day. This morning we went up the Creek about 3 miles, and then were obliged to leave it, the Timber being so blown down that we could not get through. After we left the Creek we kept on a Ridge 4 miles, then turned down to the head of a Branch, and it began to rain and continued raining very hard till Night.
June 6th. We went down the Branch till it became a large Creek. It runs very Swift, falling more than any of the Branches we have been on of late. I called it Rapid Creek. After we had gone 8 miles we could not
Washington County. 1717-1870.
ford, and we Camped in the low Ground. There is great sign of Indians on this Creek.
7th. The Greek being fordable, we Crossed it & kept down 12 miles to a River about 100 yards over, which we called Louisa River. The Creek is about 30 yards wide, & part of Ve River breaks into ve Creek -- making an Island on which we Camped.
8th. The River is so deep we cannot ford it and as it is falling we con- cluded to stay and hunt. In the afternoon, Mr. Powell and my Self was a hunting about a mile & a half from the Camp, and heard a gun just below us on the other side of the River, and as none of our People could cross, I was in hopes of getting some direction from the Person, but could not find him.
June 9th. We crossed the River & went down it to the mouth of a Creek & up the Creek to the head and over a Ridge into a Steep Valley and Camped.
10th. Trinity Sunday. Being in very bad ground for our Horses, we concluded to move. We were very much hindered by the Trees, that were blown down on Monday last. We Camped on a Small Branch.
11th. It rained violently in the Latter part of the Night & till 9 o'Clock. The Branch is impassable at present. We lost a Tomahawk and a Cann by the Flood.
12th. The Water being low we went down the Branch to a large Creek, & up the Creek. Many of the trees in the Branches are Wash'd up by the Roots and others barked by the old trees, that went down ye Stream. The Roots in the Bottom of the Runs are Barked by the Stones.
June 13th. We are very much hindered by the Gust & a shower of Rain about Noon. Game is very scarce here, and the mountains very bad, the tops of the Ridges being so covered with Ivy and the sides so steep and stony that we were obliged to cut our way through with our Tomahawks.
14th. The Woods are still bad and Game scarce. It rained to-day about Noon & we Camped on the top of A Ridge.
15th-16th. We got on a large Creek where Turkey are plenty and some Elks. We went a hunting & killed 3 Turkeys. Hunted & killed 3 Bears & some Turkeys.
17th. The Sabbath. We killed a large Buck Elk.
18th. Having prepared a good stock of Meat, we left the Creek cross- ing several Branches and Ridges. The Woods still continuing bad the weather hot & our Horses so far spent. that we are all obliged to walk.
June 19th. We got to Laurel Creek early this morning. and met so im- pudent a Bull Buffalo that we were obliged to shoot him. or he would have been amongst us. We then went up the Creek six miles, thence up a North Branch of it to the Head, and attempted to cross a mountain, but it proved so high and difficult, that we were obliged to Camp on the side of it. This Ridge is nigh the eastern edge of the Coal Land.
20th. We got to the top of the Mountain and Could discover a flat to the South & South East. We went down from the Ridge to a Branch and down the Branch to Laurel Creek not far from where we left it yester-
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day & Camped. My riding Horse was bit by a Snake this day, and hav- ing no Bear's Oil I rub'd the place with a piece of fat meat, which had the desired effect.
21st. We found the Level Nigh the Creek so Full of Laurel that we were obliged to go up a Small Branch, and from the head of that to the Creek again, and found it good travelling a Small distance from the Creek. We Camped on the Creek. Deer are very scarce on the Coal Land. I have seen but 4 since the 30th of April.
June 22nd. We kept up to the head of the Creek, and the Land being Leveller than we have lately seen, and here are some large Savanna's. Many of the Branches are full of Laurel and Ivy. Deer and Bears are plenty.
23rd. Land continues level with Laurel and Ivy & we got to a large Creek with very high & steep Banks full of Rocks which I called Clifty Creek, the Rocks are 100 feet perpendicular in some Places.
24th. The Sabbath.
25th. We Crossed Clifty Creek. Here is a little Coal and the Land still flat.
26th. We crossed a Creek that we called Dismal Creek, the Banks being the worst and the Laurel the thickest I have seen. The Land is Moun- tainous on the East Side of the Dismal Creek, and the Laurels end in a few miles. We Camped on a Small Branch.
June 27th. The Land is very high & we crossed several Ridges and camped on a small Branch. It rained about Noon and continued till the next day.
28th. It continued raining till Noon, and we set off as soon as it ceased and went down the Branch we lay on to the New River just below the mouth of Green Bryer. Powell, Tomlison and myself stripped, and went into the New River to try if we could wade over at any place. After some time having found a place we returned to the others and took such things as would take damage by water on our Shoulders, and waded over Leading our Horses. The bottom is very uneven, the Rocks very slippery and the Current very Strong most of the way. We Camped in the Low Ground opposite to the mouth of Green Bryer.
29th. We kept up Green Bryer. It being a wet day we went only 2 miles, and Camped on the North Side.
June 30th. We went 7 miles up the River, which is very crooked.
July ye Ist. The Sabbath. Our Salt being almost spent We travelled 10 miles, sometimes on the River and at other times some distance from it.
2nd. We kept up the River the chief part of the day and we travelled about 10 miles.
3rd. We went up the River 10 miles to-day.
4th. We went up the River 10 miles through very bad Woods.
5th. The way growing worse we travelled 9 miles only.
6th. We left the River. The low grounds on it are of very little Value, but on the Branches are very good, and there is a great deal of it, and the high land is very good in many places. We got on a large Creek called
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Anthony's Creek, which affords a great deal of Very good Land, and it is chiefly bought. We kept up the creek 4 miles and Camped. This Creek took its Name from an Indian, called John Anthony, that frequently hunts in these Woods. There are some inhabitants on the Branches of Green Bryer, but we missed their Plantations.
July 7th. We kept up the Creek, and about Noon 5 men overtook us and inform'd us we were only S miles from the inhabitants on a Branch of James River called JJackson's River. We exchanged some Tallow for Meal and parted. We Camped on a Creek nigh the top of Alleghany Ridge, which we named Ragged Creek.
8th. Having Shaved, Shifted, & made new Shoes, we left our useless Rages at ve Camp & got to Walker Johnston's about Noon. We moved over to Robert Armstrong's in the Afternoon & staid there all Night. The People here are very hospitable and would be better able to support Travellers was it not for the great number of Indian Warriors, that fre- quently take what they want from them, much to their prejudice.
July 9th. We went to the hot Springs and found Six Invalids there. The Spring Water is very Clear & warmer than new Milk, and there is a spring of cold Water within 20 feet of the Warm one. I left one of my Company this day.
10th. Having a Path we rode 20 miles & lodged at Captain Jemyson's below the Panther Gap. Two of my Company went to a Smith to get their Horses Shod.
11th. Our Way Mending, We travelled 30 miles to Augusta Court House. where I found Mr. Andrew Johnston, the first of my acquaintance I had seen since the 26th day of March.
12th. Mr. Johnston lent me a fresh Horse and sent my Horses to Mr. David Steward's, who was so kind as to give them Pasturage. About 8 o'clock I set off leaving all my Company. It began to rain about 2 in the Afternoon & I lodged at Capt. David Lewis's, about 34 miles from Augusta Court House.
13th. I got home about Noon.
We killed on the Journey 13 Buffaloes, 8 Elks, 53 Bears, 20 Deer, 4 Wild Geese, about 150 Turkeys, besides small Game. We might have killed three times as much meat if we had wanted it.
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First Lands Surveyed on the Waters of the Holston and Clinch Rivers of which Any Record is Preserved.
SURVEYOR'S RECORD OF FINCASTLE COUNTY.
Surveyed by John Floyd, Robert Doach, Robert Preston and Francis Smith.
ACRES.
Mar. 15, 16, '74. Wm. Edmiston, 1000 and 1000 bet. M. & S. Forks Holston.
April 16, 1774. John Campbell, 200
Rich Valley, W. North Fork.
Feb. 19, 1774. Benj. Logan, 250 Beaver Creek.
15, 1774. Lewis Pitts, 154 North Fork.
22, 1774. Benj. Hawkins, 365
Wolf Creek.
21, 1774. Nathaniel Davis, 118
Beaver Creek, N. Fork.
23, 1774. Elias Moore, 400
on Middle Fork of Holston.
15, 1774. Anthony Herd, 210 Rich Valley, North Fork.
21, 1774. John Davis, 275
Beaver Creek.
Jan. 22, 1774. Daniel McCormick,. 330
Middle Fork.
24, 1774. Colin McKinney, 103
24, 1774, Benj. Maiden, 90
24, 1774. James Bryan, 475
33
& 546 N. & M. Fork of Hols'n.
20, 1714. Robert Shannon,
258
Bear Creek, M. Fork Holston.
21, 1774. Ed. Pharez,
115 Waters Middle Fork.
24, 1774. Wm. Lockhart, 215 Watens Middle Fork.
22, 1774. John Wiley, 234
12, 1774. Thomas Crow, 226
Waters M. F., nr. bend thereof.
13, 1774. David Phillips, 155
Waters Middle Fork.
21, 1774. Edward Crow, 299 Waters Middle Fork.
24, 1774. Thos. McCulloch, 290 Waters of North Fork.
12, 1774. James Cameron, 29
Holston.
24, 1774. Samuel Simpson, 140
Middle Fork.
22, 1774. Samuel McHenry, 95 Eleven-Mile Creek.
14, 1774. John Boyd, 260 East side Middle Fork.
11, 1774. Francis Delaney, 155 Waters Middle Fork.
11, 1774. John Kirk, 290 Waters Middle Fork.
15, 1774. George Adams, 535 Holston.
Feb. 4, 1774. Roger Topp, 400 Holston.
200 Waters Middle Fork.
24, 1774, Andrew Kincannon,. 24, 19, '74. Francis Kincannon, ..
153
Middle Fork.
24, 1774. Joseph Lester,
235
Middle Fork.
21, 1774. Robert Crow,
Cedar Creek.
Waters North Fork.
Waters Middle Fork.
18, 1774. Alex. Wiley,
241 Hungers Mother, Br'ch of M. F.
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