USA > Virginia > City of Suffolk > City of Suffolk > The history of Nansemond County, Virginia > Part 4
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نحمد
55
THE DISMAL SWAMP.
When Col. Wm. Byrd, in 1728, gave to the great morass that stretches for fifteen miles through Virginia and twenty-five miles into North Carolina the name of Dismal Swamp, he did a lasting injury to this whole section of country.
Viewed from the standpoint of an engineer whose duty it was to run a line through the whole width of its vast area, it did, no doubt, present a dismal prospect, but to the traveler or explorer of today the swamp is a place of unsurpassed beauty and of never ending variety of interest and charm; while to the lumberman and agriculturist it furnishes a field of profitable investment that has as yet been but dimly appreciated. The statements contained in this narrative in regard to the Dismal Swamp are based upon the reports of scientific experts employed by the U. S. Government to conduct the investigations, and their published reports read like the stories of men returned from a visit to fairy-land. The isothermal line showing where northern climate ends and southern begins, with the extremes in temperature of neither, runs through Nansemond Co. skirting the swamp. The variety of flowers is therefore very great and the whole swamp in the springtime presents the appearance of a vast conservatory of rare and beautiful plants. About sixty-five thousand acres of Dismal Swamp are in the county of Nansemond. Two canals within the county, Jericho and Washington, pierce the swamp and meet at Lake Drummond. The canals were dug by the Dismal Swamp Land Co. more than a century ago, and cargoes of juniper and cypress have been freighted through these channels during that long period. In the center of the swamp is a lake almost circular in shape and about three miles is diameter. Lake Drum-
mond, as it is called, derives its name from a daring hunter who,
with three companions, ventured, in the early days, into the recesses of the great unknown morass. His companions lost their way and perished, and Drummond alone returned to tell the tale of the beautiful lake that lay hid away in the forest of juniper and cypress. The origin of this lake is itself a matter of curious interest. Its surface is twenty-two feet higher than the margins of the swamp. In fact, the lake is the most elevated spot in the swamp. Scientists tell us that the vast deposits of vegetable matter around its edges have left this land-locked sheet of water a crowd of beauty that holds the admiring eye of every one who has ever seen it. It is no idle dream that pictures the time when the site of the Dismal Swamp will be the garden of the eastern portion of America. During the time of the Saxon kings England was to a great extent occupied
FROM U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
57
by bogs, which have since been cleared away. The sites of these bogs are now identified by the great and persistent fertility of the soil. Probably not far from one-twentieth of the tillable land in Europe was once inundated and unfit for agriculture.
Already the work of reclaiming the swamp has been begun. In its original condition, before this region had been affected by tillage, the area of inundated lands was much larger than at present. One- third of the swamp has already been reclaimed. On the outskirts of the swamp are occasional ridges that are covered with a growth of pine. The lower levels are mainly occupied by three species of trees which are tolerant of water about their roots. The juniper occupies areas which are commonly somewhat dry during the summer sea- son. The gum and cypress can inhabit areas which are in most cases water covered, even during the growing season. The cypress is the most tolerant of water of these species, often attaining its best de- velopment in places where summer droughts at no time remove water far from the surface of their roots. Both gum and cypress have provisions by which the roots are enabled to have access to air and thus secure the aeration required by the processes which take place in their underground branches. It is an interesting fact that the knees of the cypress develop only where the roots on which they rest lie beneath the surface of the water during the growing sea- son of the year. The gum's roots similarly arch near the bole till they get air. These protruding arches are generally covered with a growth of annual plants. Where the arch is small the tree is stunted. The growth of the cypress presents many strange and grotesque appearances. The body of the cypress is twice and sometimes three times as large at its base as it is ten feet from the ground.
The character of the soil is determined by the nature of the growth thereon. Light swamp land is soil where juniper has grown. It is nearly pure peat, consisting of a brown mass of vegetable matter derived from juniper or white cedar. The thickness of the deposit is often eight to ten feet. Seventy-five to ninety-five per cent of the soil is organic matter. Such land cleared and drained is prac- tically worthless for agricultural purposes, for the peat cakes and hardens so that it resembles charred wood. Nearly one-third of the swamp is light. Nature has thus provided that the swamp shall never be wholly denuded. The juniper districts must ever remain a nursery for timber trees. Juniper, unlike cypress, reproduces rap- idly, so that from some tracts in the swamp three cuttings of mer- chantable lumber have been made in twenty years; the wood increas- ing one inch per year. Dark swamp land is soil which has borne a. forest of cypress, black gum and red maple. This soil is immeas-
FROM IT S. GEOLOGICAL. CURVEV
1
. 59
ureably rich in agricultural possibilities. It contains a large amount of organic matter in its upper portion, but when properly drained the amount of organic matter gradually diminishes. The soil after fifty years of cultivation still remains black in color. The tendency in some of this land to get acid at times is readily obviated by the use of lime. This reclaimed land is very fertile. Eighty to one hundred bushels of corn to the acre can be raised in this soil, even when it is first redeemed. Potatoes are grown, not only on the light soils near the coast, but on a large scale in the heavier soils along the eastern border of the swamp, where the average yield is said to be eighty barrels to the acre. The cultivation of celery on these rich black-gum lands reclaimed from the swamp has recently begun, and the product is equal in quality to the best Michigan celery.
It is calculated that already enough labor has been expended to have drained the whole area of the swamp, but it was conducted by individual farmers, without the help of engineers, and with no idea of general improvement. In reclaiming a few acres they have inundated many more. The greatest elevation of the swamp is near its central portion. The average inclination of the surface is twenty inches to the mile, and this is sufficient to give a strong cur- rent of water flowing in ditches having a width on the surface of -four feet and a total depth of three feet. The character of the soil is favorable to such improvements. The considerable amount of vege- tation causes these ditches to maintain their banks in good order. Large areas on either side of Jericho canal in Nansemond Co. could be made at once sufficiently dry for agricultural purposes.
Recent improvements in methods of excavation make it possi- ble to unwater the land at a relatively small cost compared with older methods of hand labor.
In the average present condition of the forest portions of the swamp the return in the way of timber may amount to $60 an acre, which probably would meet the expenses of clearing the forest away and of providing the smaller drainage canals. The area which would be won to tillage by such a system, though only a portion of this swamp district, is about 250 square miles, or 160,000 acres. The money value of this area thus improved is not less than $16,000,000. This redeemed land is admirably adapted to truck farming. The annual demand for such truck is sure to increase apace, and there is not other field so well suited for the enlargement of this form of agriculture as the area occupied by the morass of the Dismal Swamp. The drainage canals could readily afford water transportation to within a mile of every part of the tilled area. Nowhere else in the world is there near to great markets so large a field of land suited
1
FROM THE U, S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
61
to garden crops which is not used for such purposes. If availed of for this form of tillage the annual return from the land would probably be not less than $100 per acre or a total of $16,000,000. It is thus evident that we have in this region a combination of the advantages of high-grade tillage, an excellent soil, ready water communication, a favorable climate, and opportunities for obtaining abundant irriga- tion waters in time of drought.
It is common opinion that all swamp districts are necessarily afflicted with malarial diseases. This opinion rests upon the ex- perience which is had in the ordinary alluvial lands along the shores of rivers. The fact is that in hot climates where the level of the soil water varies much at different seasons of the year malarial effluvium is bred. On the other hand, where the soil, however wet, retains its moisture during the summer seasons at about the same height it holds during the winter, there is no peculiar liability to malaria. A certain amount of malaria occurs in the margins of the swamp, but in the swamp itself there is an almost total exemption from malaria. The decay of peaty matter alone does not afford the conditions which lead to the development of malarious exhala- tions. The drainage of the swamp might lead, for a short time, to some developmnet of malaria, but we may judge from our experience in the drainage work already done about the swamp that these fevers, if they occurred, would be of a simple and non-malignant type. The difficulty encountered from such diseases would prob- ably be no greater than that which was for a time experienced in the settlements in Southern Indiana. and Illinois.
Not the least of the riches of this region is the character of the water which inundates the swamp. It is commonly called juniper water, though its amber color is more probably due to the presence of finely divided vegetable matter, principally the product of the gum tree. This water is absolutely wholesome, and its keeping properties are proverbial. Vessels sailing out of Norfolk bound for a long cruise fill their barrels with it in preference to all other water, and it retains its wholesome characteristics for an indefinite period. The waters of Lake Drummond are so highly esteemed that people whose health is impaired frequently go there to drink of its waters and bring it home with them in casks. Jericho canal is ten miles long. It extends from Lake Drummond to a point two miles east of Suffolk. Washington canal is five miles long and runs at right angles to Jericho canal. In the spring and early summer the trip through the Washington canal furnishes a rare experience to the lover of the beautiful. The overhanging gum, cypress and red maple meet and intertwine overhead, shutting out
FROM U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
63
the glare of the sun. The strange bald knees of the cypress rear themselves about the huge body of the parent tree, and the lifted arches of the gum, covered with hardy annual flowers, give infinite variety of color. Every stump left by the woodsman's axe has been taken possession of by wild ivy or eglantine. · The ferns wave along the banks, high as a man's head, and every passing breeze quickens into life the whispering reeds.
The Dismal Swamp is the greatest game preserve on the At- lantic seaboard. Bears abound, and it is calculated that at least two hundred are killed yearly. Deer are plentiful. Wild cattle, as fleet and as wary as the deer, make their home on the ridges that run through the swamp. Otters, minks and coons are very numerous, while on the margins of the swamp wood-cock abound as nowhere else in this portion of the world.
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BIRDS EYE VIEW JAMESTOWN EXPOSITION AND SURROUNDING TERRITORY
65.
CLERKS OF NANESEMOND COUNTY COURT.
John Leer .
1675
Joseph Prentis.
1838-1851
Joseph Bridger
.1699
Benjamin Riddick .... 1851-1852
Daniel Sullivan.
1702-1703 Peter B. Prentis ..
1852-1869
Michael Archer
1714
E. F. Williamson .
.1869-1871
Christopher Jackson. . 1734-1749 Willis E. Cohoon. .1871-1875 John Wright. 1749-1751 Peter B. Prentis . 1875-1888
Lemuel Riddick. 1751-1775 Wm. B. Causey. . 1888-1890
*John C. Littlepage .. 1777-1830 Robert. R. Smith.
.. 1890
John T. Kilby
1830-1838
*During the latter portion of his term of office Littlepage did not for many years reside in or even visit the county. He resided in Hanover and was kept within the bounds of that county by his creditors, he having re- fused to take advantage of the poor-debtor's law. His work was done by a deputy, John T. Kilby, who succeeded to the office.
66
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MEMBERS OF THE HOUSE OF BURGESSES FROM NANSEMOND CO.
UPPER NORFOLK.
1639.
Randall Crew. John Gookin. Tristam Norseworthy.
1641. Capt. Daniel Coogan (Gookin). John Carter.
1642. Thomas Dewe. 1643. John Carter. Randall Crew. 1644.
Randall Crew. Moore Fauntleroy.
1644-5. Philip Bennett. Moore Fauntleroy. 1645.
' Philip Bennett. Edward Major. Richard Wells.
.
NANSEMOND. 1647.
Moore Fauntleroy. Sam Stoughton. Richard Wells. 1649. John Carter. Toby Smith. 1652 (April). Capt. Thomas Dew. Edward Major (Speaker). 1652 (November). Col. Thomas Dew (Speaker). Peter Montague. 1653. Col. Thos. Dew. Lieu. Col. Edward Major. Peter Montague.
1654.
Col. Thos. Dew. Sam Stoughton. Thos. Goodwin.
1655-6.
Capt. Ed. Streeter. John Willcox. Capt. Blake. UPPER NORFOLK (Sic.)
1
67
1657-8. Lieu. Col. Edward Carter. Thomas Francis. Giles Webb. UPPER NORFOLK (Sic.) 1658. Lieu. Col. Edward Carter. Capt. Thomas Goodwyn (Sic.) Giles Webb. UPPER NORFOLK (Sic.) 1659-60. Giles Webb. Wm. Denson. George Catchmaie.
1663. George Wallings. 1666. Capt. John Blake. Capt. John Leare. 1685. John Brasseur. Thomas Lear. 1688. Thomas Milner. Thomas Lear. 1692.
Lieu. Col. Thomas Milner (Speaker). Thomas Lear.
1696.
John Brasseur.
Thomas Jordan.
1702.
Thomas Milner.
Daniel Sullivan.
1714.
Thos. Godwin. Wm. Wright.
1718.
John Lear. James Riddick.
1720-2.
John Lear. James Reddick.
1723.
Thomas Godwin.
Henry Baker.
1726.
Thomas Godwin. Henry Baker. 1736. Daniel Pugh. Lemuel Riddick.
68
1738.
Daniel Pugh.
Lemuel Riddick.
1740.
Daniel Pugh. Lemuel Riddick.
1742.
Lemuel Riddick.
Baker.
1744.
Lemuel Riddick.
Baker.
1745.
Lemuel Riddick.
Baker.
F
1746.
Lemuel Riddick.
Baker.
1747.
Lemuel Riddick.
Baker.
1748.
Lemuel Riddick. Wm. Hunter.
1749.
Lemuel Riddick. Wm. Hunter.
1752.
Lemuel Riddick. Anthony Holladay.
1753.
Lemuel Riddick. Anthony Holladay.
1754 (Febr'y.)
Lemuel Riddick. Anthony Holladay.
1754 (Aug.)
Lemuel Riddick.
Anthony Holladay.
1754 (Oct.) Lemuel Riddick. Anthony Holladay. 1755.
Lemuel Riddick.
Anthony Holladay.
1756.
Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick ..
1757. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
69
1758. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1758-61. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick. 1759 (Febr'y.) Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1759 (Nov.) Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1760-61. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick. 1761. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1762 (Jan'y.) Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick. 1762 (Mrach.) Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1762 (Nov.) Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1763. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1764 (Jan'y).
Willis Riddick. Lemuel Riddick. 1764 (Oct.). Willis Riddick. Lemuel Riddick.
1765 (May). Willis Riddick. Lemuel Riddick.
1765 (Oct.). Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1766-8. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1769. David Meade. Willis Riddick.
1770. Lemuel Riddick. Benjamin Baker.
70
1171. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
1772-4. Benjamin Baker. Lemuel Riddick.
1773.
Benjamin Baker.
Lemuel Riddick.
1774.
Benjamin Baker.
Lemuel Riddick.
1775.
Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick.
71 CONVENTIONS OF 1775-6. March 20th, 1775. Lemuel Riddick. Willis Riddick. July 17th, 1775. Andrew Meade. James Murdagh.
Dec. 1st, 1775. James Murdagh. Andrew Meade.
May 6th, 1776. Willis Riddick. Wm. Cowper.
SPEAKERS OF THE HOUSE OF BURGESSES FROM NANSEMOND COUNTY.
Edward Major
. April, 1652
Thomas Dew.
Nov., 1652
Thomas Godwin
June, 1676
Thomas Milner
1691-93
MEMBERS OF THE GOVERNOR'S COUNCIL.
Richard Bennett
1639
William Bernard
1641
Thomas Dew
1655
John Carter
1657-8
Edmund Carter
1659
John Lear
GOVERNOR.
Richard Bennett
. 1652-55
1
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