USA > Vermont > Franklin County > St Albans > A centennial history of St. Albans, Vermont > Part 5
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This paved the way for other triumphs in nauti- cal skill, for in 1827 the steamboat, Franklin, was built at the Bay, and in the following year the steamer, McDonough, was launched near the store of Mr. Cook. These were followed by steamer after steamer, until our whole lake was filled with Hoating palaces. And when the very acme of per- fection had been reached in steam navigation, we began to hear whispers of a railroad here. I joined in the laugh of the doubters, until I came to ride in the stage from Montpelier to Burling- ton. Among the passengers were two of our hon- orable townsmen, to whom I remarked that this slow travelling was tiresome. One, who went by the name of Uncle John, replied, " H. K., per- haps you will go faster sometime." The other, who was called Uncle L., said, " Yes, Adams ; I've made up my mind that if they can build a road through a mountain of solid rock in New Hamp- shire, we can have one in Northern Vermont." On my return home, I began to whisper, the re- sult was, that every one on the west side of Main Street, who had a seven by nine carrot patch, be-
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held visions of golden carats. The men began to place front doors in their back yards, and more starch in their shirt collars. One woman, to my certain knowledge, put on three extra petticoats. There was a tremendous excitement, which has been kept up ever since, but the cars continue to 'run as usual. This has proven to be one of the most courageous, successful, and commendable undertakings of modern times, while the names of its originators are witten on
" The rounded crown Of Fame's triumphal arch."
ST. ALBANS BAY.
As this part of the town was inhabited by our first settlers, previous to their locating in the vil- lage, it is proper to present some account of its early history.
This region still retains many of its aboriginal names. The Bay is often called " Bella Maqueen." MaQuam, then known as Bopquam, while the rocky isle, north of Sampson's is now known as Popasquash, which peculiar formation of nature, was much larger than at the present time, being encircled with more land, of which we have a tra- dition was the scene of many powwows or Indian councils, which Indians are said to have been "the Maquas."
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Within my own remembrance, a squaw, who assumed to be a descendant of one of the original proprietors of the soil, lingered here for many years on the Burton Farm, as the sole representa- tive of her tribe ; and she was hopeful the lands of her fathers would be restored to her. Her name was Madam Campo, and when she anticipated a business call from the possessor of her assumed heritage, would place a broad, green ribbon on her stovepipe hat, and tramp with much dignity, with a pipe in her mouth, in front of her log cabin. But she hoped in vain, like many others from the same source ; and finally cast "the Wampum of Peace " into the fire, and retired from the haunts of civilization.
The first clearing at the Bay was a tract of land, extending south of the meeting house, (the Lake Road not then being laid out,) on the lake shore, including the Ralph Lasell and Buck places. We have evidence that several branches of business were carried on as early as 1790, with a tanner, a shoemaker, carpenters and joiners, and a potash, &c., &c., which latter commodity was shipped into Canada, in exchange for lumber, tobacco, nails, kettles, &c., sloops having been built previ- ous to this date in Burlington, which frequently entered our bay for patronage.
And as early as 1793, when the question of the
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shire was agitated, there was considerable hesi- tancy in deciding whether the county buildings should be located there or in the village, which demonstrates there was an influential element there, but the population had increased here so much more rapidly than at the Bay by 1796, at which time the first courts were held in the house of Silas Hatherway, now the Hoit house on North Main Street. As early as 1800, there were mer- chants at the Bay, and there must have been some enterprise among the inhabitants, as a petition for water works was presented to the legislature at that early date.
In 1808, the commerce was extensive enough to call for two military companies to protect it. In 1814 and 1815, sloops, &c., were built there. In 1823, the vessel heretofore described, was built, and was the first to sail through to New York. In 1827, a steamboat was built at the Bay, and another in the year following.
On March 27th, 1828, the inhabitants of St. Albans were requested to meet at Wilkins' Inn, at the Bay, on Monday, the 31st inst., for the purpose of selecting a suitable name for the vil- lage and port at St. Albans Bay. Uriel Smith was chosen chairman, and Geo. W. Bradford, secretary. The committee were Captain William
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OF ST. ALBANS, VERMONT.
Burton, Jedediah Freeman, Esq., Rev. Orris Pier, and Mr. John H. Burton.
Agreeably to the notice, &c., by the citizens of St. Albans a full meeting was convened. The committee appointed, reported the highly favored name of Port Washington, which name was seldom used.
The following notice appears in our local paper in 1831 :
JULY 4TH, 1831.
The late Anniversary of American Independ- ence, was duly observed by our fellow citizens at St. Albans Bay. A national salute was fired- at 12 o'clock. A procession was formed under the direction of the editor of "The Repertory," assist- ed by A. S. Burton, escorted by Capt. Conger's Company of Artillery, to a bower.
The throne of grace was addressed by the Rev. Mr. Chamberlain. Declaration of Independence by H. R. Beardsley, Esq., and an oration pro- nounced by Hon. James Davis, replete with patriotic sentiments, and characterized throughout with scholastic refinement. The procession was then again formed, and returned to a bountiful spread. After the cloth was removed, a number of regular and volunteer toasts were drank, ac- companied by discharge of artillery:
In 1836-7-8, this part of the town was the scene of several military drills, composed of our
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three companies, which generally transpired on the plateau in front of Akerman's and the Bay cemetery, at which period this part of our town was well represented on the line, during the Canadian Rebellion.
From 1843 to 1849, this locality enjoyed its highest prosperity. Many of the county mer- chants had become wealthy, and their large stocks furnished business for the transportation line of boats, and their dockage was quite an item. The firm of Nicholls, Burton & Chittenden, with other branches of business, made it quite lively all around Port Washington. A bank had been es- tablished by the famous Commodore Burton, who has since instructed several in the art of banking. A church, with a local pastor, and a physician, a tailor, a hotel, and mechanics were located there. On the other side of the brook running into Ship- yard Bay, a wharf had been built, a new store and an academy, one story of which was used for pub- lic worship. These were owing to the efforts of Messrs. Kingman and Brainerd, both men of cap- ital, integrity, enterprise, and business capacity. A block of stores had gone up, and a prospective city had been planned, streets laid out, with even double four corners, and a spacious hotel erected, which bore the name of the future City of Bella Maqueen.
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But as soon as the snort of the steam horse was heard, the prosperity of the place began to wane. Mr. K. having died. Mr. B. was willing to sacrifice some of his interests at the Bay, to pro- mote the welfare of the village, although it would have been a more direct route for the railroad by the lake. The result was, the steamer ceased its trips, the brick block was taken down, and con- verted into dwellings on Elm Street, the academy and hotel almost met a similar fate, the business men sought other localities, the store-house crumbled to dust, the wharf nearly disappeared from view, and the county road, laid out from Swanton to accommodate Canada trade, has been discontinued. While at Port Washington, the bank was removed to the village, most of the business left, the church and hotel were consumed by fire, and to all appearances chaos stared them in the face.
But there are many worthy people left at the Bay, and all along the shore, who have struggled nobly amid their misfortunes, rebuilt a church, and enjoy the advantages of well-taught schools.
Inasmuch as they are an honest and industri- ous people, it is hoped they may regain their former prosperity ; and as coming events cast their shadows before them, they have reason to behold " the glimmer of a brighter day," as signs
:
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for the better are beginning to exhibit themselves in this pleasant part of our town. Taking into account the resorts at Samson's, Hatherway's Point, and the baronial buildings on the domain of ex-Governor Smith, with the prospective im- provements by Col. Foss, and the prospect of a railroad ; the working of the lime ledges, the red granite, the Brocatel marble quarries, and with the possible development of the mineral wealth. which geologists state, "may underlie the slate bed, running diagonally through the Adams lot, on the Lake Road," may all tend to promote their prosperity, by giving an impetus to other enterprises.
In concluding this notice, the writer cannot forego the pleasure of relating a pedestrian trip to the lake, by " the boys of our academy." On the day previous to the entrance of the new steamer, Saranac, into St. Albans Bay, we ap- proached the preceptor with a verbal petition, that he would close school the following day, which was refused in a very emphatic manner. How- ever, when he entered school the next morning, it was discovered "a two-year-old" had there passed the night, solving problems in mathemat- ics ; and it is needless to state school didn't keep that day, and the boys beheld the lake. "This phalanx of modesty " left Main Street, each mem-
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ber with a dime in his pocket. The fields were nearly open on both sides, to Nigger Hill, and every gale that blew, was ladened with the fra- grance of new mown hay. At the foot of the hill, we paused by the willow-fringed brook, that mean- dered through the Howard Meadow, odorous with wild roses and peppermint. And as we approach- ed the lake, we were saluted with a song of wel- come, from a school of frogs; the females piped forth "b'hoys! b'hoys !" while the males sweetly croaked "no more rum, ve rum! no rum, ve rum !" After waiting an hour or more, the steamer came in, and our curiosity being satisfied, we re- paired to Tracey's Grocery. In looking back, it is wonderful to think how far our money went, and how much satisfaction was received for ten cents. Just look. A quarter of a large, fresh-baked cus- tard pie, for three cents ; one fourth of a card of ambrosial gingerbread, that measured three and a half by six inches, three cents ; a glass of nectar beer, two cents; and a chunk of cheese for two more. But about half the number would purchase a good segar for two cents, cut them in too, and exchange for some part of the other articles with the other half, resulting in seventy-seven boys, each with half a segar in his mouth, rushing down to the beach, to skip stones. And as the waves broke upon the shore, they cast at our feet, tinted
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shells-moonstones, and vari-colored pebbles, fit to adorn the person of beauty, and sparkle in the crown of kings. After filling one pocket with gems, and the other with sweet flag, and with fag- ots of cat-tails over our shoulders, we retraced our footsteps homeward, feeling "the joys of youth were too pure to last, and too bright to endure."
A CARD.
As the writer may have been accused of indif- ference, in regard to the custom of returning thanks on a published card, for attentions in times of affliction, would state that it has been delayed for more enduring expression in this work. We now return our sincere thanks for "the marks of respect," "the tokens of sympathy," and "the words of condolence," so fitly spoken during our many trials and tribulations, all of which will be cherished with grateful memory.
OUR REPRESENTATIVES.
As it is customary in all town histories, to give a list of those who have represented the town at the State Legislature, I will give their names from its organization, in 1788, to the present centen- nial year, 1888, for which I am indebted to an honorable gentlemen in Montpelier, who undoubt- edly possesses the most historical knowledge of
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any man now residing in our state. God bless him.
1788, Jonnathan Hoit. 1789, Silas Hatherway.
1 790, ..
1821, Asa Fuller. 1822, Stephen Royce. 1823,
1791, Jonnathan Hoit. I792, ٠٠
1824, , 1825, Benjamin Swift. 1826, ١١
1793, Noel Potter. 1794, Silas Hatherway, 1795, . ١١ 1796, ..
1827, John Smith. 1828, 1829,
1797, Levi House. 1798, Silas Hatherway,
1 799, ١١
1832,
1800, Seth Pomeroy. 1801, ١١
1833,
1834, L. Brainerd.
1802, Levi House. 1835, J. Smith.
1803, Seth Pomeroy.
1836,
1 804, 1805, . .
1806, Nathan Green.
1839, S. S. Brown.
1807, Seth Wetmore.
1808, Asa Fuller.
1809, Carter Hicock.
1841, Cornelius Stilphen 1842, .
1810, Nathan Green. 1843, John Gates.
1811, Jonnathan Hoit. 1812, Abner Morton.
1845, Orlando Stevens.
1846, Wm. Bridges. 1847,
1848, H. R. Beardsley.
1815, Abner Morton. 1816, N. W. Kingman. 1840, B. B. Newton. 1850, Wm. Bridges.
1837,
1838, A. G. Tarlton.
1840, Josiah Newton.
1844, None.
1813, Benjamin Swift. 1814, Jonnathan Hoit.
1817, J. K. Smedley.
1830, 06
1831,
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A CENTENNIAL HISTORY
1818, None.
1819, Samuel Barlow.
1820, Silas Hatherway. 1853,
1854, T. W. Smith.
1868, G. G. Hunt. 1869. ..
1855, ..
1856, Hiram F. Stevens
BIENNIAL.
1857,
1858, A. G. Soule.
1859,
1874, Park Davis.
1860, J. G. Smith.
1876, J. W. Newton.
1861, ..
1878, Ed. Green.
1862, ..
1880, H. Brainerd.
1863, W. C. Smith.
1882, G. C. Noble.
1864, B. Barlow.
1884, F. S. Stranahan.
1865,
1886, S. S. Bedard.
1866, C. Wyman.
1888, H. M. Stevens.
1867, E. F. Perkins.
OUR TOWN CLERKS.
Jonnathan Hoit, -
-
Seth Pomeroy, -
Francis Davis,
-
Seth Wetmore, -
1808 and 1809
Abijah Stone, - - 1810-11-12-13 Abner Morton, - 1814 and 1815 1816 to 1825
Abijah Stone,
Elihu L. Jones, -
- 1825 and 1826 1827 and 1828
Abijah Stone,
John Gates, -
1829 to 1836 1836 to 1862
2
Wm. Bridges,
Cassius D. Farrar,
1862 to 1877
-
1788 to 1799 1799 to 1807 1807
-
1851, Wm. Bridges. 1852, C. N. Hayden. .. ..
1870, E. A. Smith. 1872, ..
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OF ST. ALBANS, VERMONT.
Joseph S. Weeks, - 1877 to 1887
B. D. Hopkins,
- 1887 and 1888
OUR PRIMITIVE CUSTOMS.
Our primitive customs were similar to those in other settlements in New England.
Stray cattle, &c., &c., would be advertised from the door of the building, wherein was held relig- ious worship, by the titheing-man, who also pre- served order. If boys were detected in laughing or in play, they were walked up by the ear to the front seat.
If any one was sick in the society, the minister would notify the congregation previous to the ser- mon, and ask what persons would take their turn in watching through the week. If the head of a family was sick, the neighbors would do his work for him. The sisters doing the same, if a woman.
If a matron invited company, the women would bring their knitting work, and snuff-boxes, ex- changing pinches with each other, until every box was empty. " The supper " would consist of rye short-cake, and wild honey, with herb tea.
Ninety years ago, a lady here, gave a party to nine others, who all brought their spinning-wheels, and spun in the yard till early candle light.
If a man made a bee to gather his crops, the refreshments would be cold pork, johnny-cake,
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A CENTENNIAL HISTORY
made from corn, mashed in the top of a log, sawed off and hollowed out for the purpose, then known as " a plumping mill," which solids would be washed down with corn whiskey.
In the course of time, as the clearings grew larger, the inhabitants had more variety in their diet ; stewed beans, pea soup, barley coffee, with an occasional goose, that had outlived her useful- ness, the oil of which was regarded in those days by the good housewife, as more precious than the ointment that ran down Aaron's beard. Soon after this, the orchards commenced bearing, and cider brandy became the fashionable beverage for the clergy and the people.
The first apple-trees that bore fruit in town were planted by Uncle Nathan, at the foot of Johnny- cake Hill, and his worthy helpmeet, Aunt Susan, invited the neighbors in to eat the two first apple- pies made in town, and having enough left for sauce, the parson was invited to taste that.
Table cutlery and crockery were almost un- known, especially plates. Ham and eggs, pork and beans, were cut up together, and the family all ate from the same dish, called a trencher.
Cooking was then prepared in a much different manner than at the present time. Stoves not then being in vogue, brick ovens were the great desid- eratum, in which were placed brown bread, pork
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and beans, the night previous, the flavors of which were much superior to that imparted by stoves or ranges. In them were also baked gingerbread and pies. These were all shoveled in and out by a long, iron handled shovel, one of which is now in the writer's possession, over one hundred years of age. Meats and vegetables were stewed to- gether in iron pots, suspended on cranes, that swung in large, open fire-places.
The writer now recalls one of these scenes of " Ye Olden Time." Two old ladies on Lake St., annually met at " the home of Aunt Patience," to celebrate the anniversary of " the battle of Ben- nington," in which their husbands fought and bled. A great-nephew, now among us, was once impress- ed with the idea that he would participate in the ceremonies. So, climbing up to the chimney on the back part of the house, he dropped three bricks, and hearing them strike in " the kettle of pot luck " below, concluded he had done his share towards that celebration.
The mode of lighting up our early homes was not as stylish as at the present time, but " the humble rush," soaked in grease, and stuck in a piece of wood or half of a potato, shed its flicker- ing rays upon happy hearth-stones and glimmered upon honest faces. And the tallow candles that followed, in iron candlesticks, gladdened the hearts
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of their inmates, and shed a ray serene upon the walls of our primitive log cabins. Then came oil, in lamps of tin, and glass, followed by camphene, kerosene, gas, and "electric lights," fit for palaces, and rivaling the rays of Orion.
When the old back log of the fire-place gave out or failed to emit its sparks, the method of pro- curing fire or light, was as novel as the light it- self. But every family was provided with a pocket sun-glass, or with "a vade mecum," in the form of a tinder-box, which was either filled with flax, soaked in the balsam of pitch-pine, or with punk, gathered from decayed logs, which with a " steel handlet," struck fire with the contents of the box, held aside a flint. This peculiar age of light, was followed by strips of cedar, dipped in brimstone, called lamp-lighters, the first of which in our town were sold in bunches, by Lafayette, the son of Sam, the first village baker,, which would quickly ignite by being held to a burning stick or coal of fire. After this plain display of brimstone before our eyes, and of which we were reminded every Sunday, the old loco-foco matches came into fash- ion, which to a great extent have been improved upon.
A very common mode of travel, for both sexes, was upon horseback, the wife being seated behind on a cushion, called a pillion, in which manner
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they would journey long distances to friends, dwelling remote from villages. Also, in the same style to church, weddings, and to market towns. The writer has just beheld a side-saddle, over eighty years old, whereon a Miss of eight years rode as many miles through the woods, to carry her grandmother a box of pills.
I once witnessed an illustration of this mode of travelling, having once opened my father's store at six in the morning. A young lass rode up on horseback, for a rake, which was borne over her shoulder for five miles. Recalling the event, I am reminded that Maud Muller could have appeared no more charming.
Whenever a wedding occurred, the parson, tak- ing the lead, all the men following, would kiss the bride, and the women would do the same by the groom. Wedding feasts would be followed by dancing, concluding by the men escorting the bridegroom to the nuptial couch. The females afterwards doing the same with the bride. Wed- ding presents would often consist of six wooden or pewter plates, with spoons to match, a cooking pot, and always a cradle ; and it was a lucky bride who received a spinning-wheel and a side- saddle.
Pipes were of home-made cobs or freestone, with elder stems, but few had tobacco. Dried
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mullein leaves, mixed with mint, was generally substituted for the weed, with which so many puff off their ideas in smoke.
At funerals, the remains were borne to the grave in a lumber wagon or on ox sleds, frequent- ly wrapped in buffalo robes. We had no hearse until about 1840.
OUR SOCIAL LIFE.
The intent and purposes of this work will not admit of an extended history of our life and man- ners. But as a slight allusion to the subject may naturally be anticipated, I would state that for the last forty or more years, we have possessed the unenviable reputation of being a "stuck up," and pretentious people. This is a mistake, although during that time, there may have been instances when certain individuals have undertaken to make the public believe they were better than others, but they have always proven such ridiculous fail- ures, the attempt will never be made again, for as they progressed in the voyage of life, they began to realize the words of Plutarch, " that it is no dis- grace not to be able to do everything ; but to un- dertake or pretend to do what you are not made for, is not only shameful, but extremely trouble- some and vexatious."
So at this time, we have no acknowledged aris-
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OF ST. ALBANS, VERMONT.
tocracy here. for the reason, no one is willing to admit the superiority of any one else, whether based upon more wealth, or more intelligence than themselves. This fact seems to be woven indelli- bly into our social fabric, and becomes more appar- ent every day of our historic existence. Those among our inhabitants who have the most reason to feel their superiority on account of their wealth, intellectual culture, or business integrity, assume nothing on that basis, and seemingly ignore all such claims advanced for them by sycophants and snobs.
There are, however, some changes in our man- ners and customs, which have transpired within the past forty years, which may be proper to notice at this time, for then there was less bowing and scraping, and more attention paid to the sensible part of etiquette than now.
It was then customary, when a new being was ushered into the world, for the whole village to rejoice. And when a couple united their future destinies, all the town joined in a heartfelt te deum for their life-long happiness. So, too, when death entered a home, messages of condolence and offers of assistance, came from every direction. This last, let us be thankful for, as it continues, even during this age of selfishness and cold indif- ference. But in this connection, there was a cus-
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tom, which has become obsolete, for when a family were afflicted by death, " the tolling bell " announc- ed the sad event. The custom being to sound three times three for a male, twice three for a female, and twice two for a child, the bell after- wards tolling the age. If in the north part of the town, the north window of the belfry was open, the same with the others, announcing the direc- tion. And when the death knell struck the ear, the voice of youth was silenced, the hum of busi- ness was hushed, until it was known who among us had joined " the silent majority."
If a member of any family was sick, in a neigh- borhood, any prospective entertainment was aban- doned, and the greater part of the village would offer their assistance.
No family ever had cause to feel grieved or in- sulted, by any one member being singled out with an invitation, owing to any petty differences with the others. The invitations would be to Miss or the Misses P. and brother or brothers, as the case might be, and for extraordinary occasions as fol- lows: Mr. and Mrs. Q. and family.
In the place of comfortable little spats and snubs, we now have malicious slanders, and cruel persecutions, in payment for trivial disputes and newspaper squibs, in other words, the hyenas and sharks of society, trifle with the reputation and
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