History of Cavendish, Vermont, Part 2

Author: Wheeler, Lois, 1927-
Publication date: 1952
Publisher: Proctorsville, Vt.
Number of Pages: 94


USA > Vermont > Windsor County > Cavendish > History of Cavendish, Vermont > Part 2


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Passing down the southern bank a distance of forty rods, "Lov- er's Leap" is reached. Here the jutting mica schist stands out in an angle of the stream, affording one who has the nerve to stand upon a perpendicular precipice a hundred feet above the foaming current that lashes itself to a foam in the abyss be-


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low him, one of the wildest and most romantic scenes in nature. To the west is seen, amid the giant boulders the rushing waters flowing on as though in haste to reach the base of "Lover's Leap;" then, turning abruptly at right angles down the stream, they speed their way directly to the north, and often hide their foamy caps beneath the gigantic boulders that are thrown to- gether in stupendous heaps, and, in low water, bridge the deep- worn channel.


View of Cavendish Gorge


A few steps further east and "Prospect Point" is reached. Here not only shown the picturesque surroundings seen from Lover's Leap, but the modus operandi by which the gorge was made is also here suggested. A deep and long extended crack is visible at this point, and if we conjectured right, through this the water first escaped from out the chain of lakes before alluded to.


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"Eureka Cave" is an interesting point. From Prospect Point. passing down some fifty rods in a rustic footpath, one will find himself near the entrance to the cave, in the "Rotunda." This as its name implies, is a circular enclosure surrounded by a smoothly worn and water-washed ledge, the top and sides of which are arranged in that drapery which nature uses to decor- ate her wildest and most secluded haunts. Just around a jutting point of the rock is the entrance to the cave.


View of Cavendish Gorge


Less than half a dozen rods from the cave, upon the verge of the stream, the pre-Adamic waters scooped out a pot-hole that is now elevated about twenty feet above the river bed, of a size to admit a dozen persons. Leaning over the western edge of this rock-basin, one of the most beautiful of views is opened to the spectator. As far up and down the stream as the eye can reach are seen gigantic boulders piled together in great profusion, with high and overhanging rocks on either side, in which are deep indented niches and fantastic carvings made by water, which bring to the mind of the beholder the descriptions he has


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read of ruined amphitheaters and the old city of Petra, cut by man out of the solid rock.


The first actual settlement in Cavendish was made in June, 1769, when Captain John Coffeen located and built a dwelling in the northern part of town. His hospitable residence during the Revolution afforded thousands of American soldiers shelter and refreshment while passing from Charlestown, N.H., to the military posts on Lake Champlain. Captain Coffeen gained his title during the Revolutionary War, being connected with the militia. The rank of Captain was given to him in 1775 by the New York Provincial Congress.


It is not known when the town was organized, as the first book of records, tradition has it, was lost. The exact date of Captain Coffeen's settlement is disputed by some as being in 1770 although the early date is now generally accepted.


The first settlers of Cavendish were mostly from Massachu- setts, and in 1771 Noadiah Russell and Thomas joined Captain Coffeen, sharing with him the hardship of frontier life.


Beginning as early as 1782 the usual distracting efforts to fix the center of town as a site for a church were made, which continued until 1800. Numerous lots were offered, but no satisfactory committee could be secured. It wasn't until 1801 that a committee was agreed on.


In the latter part of 1792 this town hired Abel Wood to preach six months; he was to receive 20 shillings a day. The momentous question of the church site having been settled, it was voted to build a house and to complete it by June 20, 1802. It was voted to purchase the chosen site of Jedediah Tuttle, the price to be $30 an acre. Also voted was the right of each person or denomination to have a right to occupy the house for religious worship in proportion to their standing on each grand list. A tax of four cents on a dollar was voted to build the church.


There have been several religious societies in the town from time to time. There were a number of Methodists among the carly settlers, also Baptists. Rev. Aaron Leland of Chester, after- wards to be Lieutenant Gov. of Vermont, certified 19 taxpayers as Baptists, in 1799.


Many of the residences built in the infancy of the town are


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still standing, venerable old structures that the hand of time has dealt lightly with in order that may remain to remind us of the vicissitudes and self-sacrifices endured by our fathers.


The dwelling of Mrs. Sarah Dutton, at Cavendish village, was built by Salmon Dutton in 1782. Five generations have lifted its old-fashioned latches. The building was used for many years as a hotel, the first in town. Upon the farm of Joseph S. Ather- ton is a house that was built about one hundred years ago. This building was also a hotel. Upon J. H. Adams's farm there is a house that was built by Noadiah Russell, supposed to be the second frame house built in the town. The present residence of George W. White was built by his grandfather, Samuel White, over ninety years ago. Just beyond the Dutton House-the old- est house in the village (1782)-stands the Cavendish Inn; it


Universalist Church, Cavendish, Vermont


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was built in 1839 and was used for a store. It is the oldest stone house in Cavendish village, and once was called Hotel Elliott. The stone Universalist Church was built in 1824. Perkins' store was an Academy in 1792. Students from all over New England, New York, and Pennsylvania came to school here. There were ten or twelve teachers. Inasmuch as no records of the Academy are available its complete history cannot be writ- ten. Later when the school was given up the second floor was used first as a Masonic Hall, and later by the Cavendish Grange. The first floor was used for some time by E. G. White, for a grain business. The building was bought in 1900 by Malony and Perkins as a general store.


Several destructive fires have visited Cavendish village, greatly retarding its business interests. The first was the burn- ing of the "stone factory," as it was called, November 12, 1873. This factory was built in 1832, by a company under the firm name of the Black River Canal and Manufacturing Company. The factory went into operation in 1835, making a fine quality of broadcloth, under the management of Henry N. Fullerton. In time it passed into the hands of Nathaniel Fullerton, of Chester. In 1854, it was leased by a company under the firm name of Fullerton & Co .; they manufactured cassimeres until about the close of the rebellion. In 1869 the property passed into the hands of F. W. Whipple, of Providence, R.I., and was occupied by James Whipple up to the time it was destroyed. Alonzo Haskell's mills, together with the Baptist church, were destroyed April 27, 1875. Robert Fitton's factory was burned September 6, 1875, his storehouse was destroyed Feb. 28, 1877, and his boarding house June 24, 1878. Carlton H. Gowran's tannery burned January 16, 1880, and Thomas Gordon's hotel and Mrs. Caroline Chase's dwelling were destroyed by fire March 14, 1882.


The first action taken by the town in reference to the late Civil War was at a town meeting held April 30, 1861, Governor Ryland Fletcher presiding. It was then voted to raise $2,000 to liquidate all obligations incurred by Captain Tuttle in rais- ing the Cavendish Light Infantry, and to pay the board of the men and furnish support to their families. From a compilation made by Hon. Calvin French we give the following figures:


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Cavendish furnished to the armies of the Union, twenty men in response to the first call for troops, three months' service. In the Second, Eleventh, Fourth, Seventh and Fifth Vermont Regi- ments, forty-two men for three years' service. These volunteers received no bounties. Forty-two men were furnished under the nine months' call. For subsequent calls fifty-three men were furnished for three years, and thirty for one year, making a grand total of one hundred eighty seven volunteers furnished by the town.


For the first time in history, the War Department has released for publication, a complete list of the Congressional Medal of Honor Men and following are the two which would be of the most interest to Cavendish people.


"Sperry, W. J. at Petersburg, Va. April 2, 1865 R. Vermont P. Cavendish, Vt. Major 6th Vt. Inf. With assistance of a few men captured two pieces of artillery and turned them upon the enemy."


"Wheeler, D.D. at Salem Heights, Va. May 3, 1863 R.N.R.B. -Cavendish, Vt., ist Lieut. Co. G. 4th Vt. Inf. Distinguished bravery in action when he was wounded and had a horse shot under him."


Now for a brief historic sketch with interesting facts: Caven- dish is a fine little post village. It was formerly known as Dut- tonsville, in honor of the family of Salmon Dutton, one of the five men appointed by Town Meeting, March 13, 1788, "to chuse a committee to ascertain the boundary of Cavendish."


Six years earlier Mr. Dutton had built the first house in Cav- endish (Cave-in-dish) Village, or Duttonsville. In 1784 he had laid out the road to Ludlow which, in 1798, became part of the Green Mountain Turnpike, a toll road extending from Rut- land to Bellows Falls through Cavendish Village and over Dutton Hill. The Proctorsville gulf road (now Route 103) was built originally as a "shun pike," to get around paying tolls on the Turnpike.


At the time the Rutland Railroad came through, in 1849, the village was formally given the name of Cavendish, in place of Duttonsville. A certain rivalry - ALMOST AN ASPERITY - had existed between the village of Proctorsville and Duttons- ville. Jabez Proctor and Salmon Dutton were both "Squires,"


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and the balance of the designation "leading citizen" was delicate.


Happily, love stepped into the situation, through the court- ing by Squire Proctor's son Redfield, of Squire Dutton's daugh- ter Emily. This not only soothed the frictions but established a line which has distinguished Vermont History with three Governors of the State, one United States Senator, one Secre- tary of War and one Lieutenant-Governor.


Interest of both families in the two villages has taken many valued forms, among them handsome Soldiers' monuments to veterans of the Civil War and World War I.


The railroad was completed somewhere about 1850. Times were lively during its construction. The laborers were Irish- men, and there were two factions. They murdered a man in a shanty near where the saw mill now is, opposite the Plumley & Sargent place on the Ludlow road, and in Proctorsville they tried to kill a man by the name of Fay, who was a sub-contractor on the railroad and lived in the old house that stood where Will Adams' house is in Proctorsville. The bullet holes were visible as long as the house remained.


Phineas Gage's Skull


One of the best tales relating to the railroad was when a work- man called Phineas P. Gage, accidentally tapped a stick of dyna- mite with a crow bar., which was blown completely through his head, entering under one cheek and coming out almost


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squarely at the top of his skull. He did not lose consciousness, and was not knocked down, but walked three miles to a farm house and up several flights of stairs without aid. The village doctor thought nothing could be done, but he began to gain- actually recovered, lived for years after, willing his head to Dr. Harlow, by whom it was presented, with the bar, to Harvard University.


Gay Brothers Co. was first an old mill built in 1832 but the place burned in 1873 and was stripped of the machinery. From 1873 it continued to go from bad to worse until 1886 when


Kenwood Mills (Gay Brothers), Cavendish, Vermont


Stearns Gay, father of the present owners took over. With lim- ited capital, and a decrepit plant he started the work which made possible the fine up-to-date plant which it is today, a credit and a great financial aid to the town of Cavendish. About 1890 Charles & James Gay came into the firm. In 1897 Gay Bros. Co. was incorporated. In the various years following the mill has been improved until it has grown into a fine woolen business. This business was recently sold to the Kenwood Mills who are continuing the manufacture of woolen goods in Cavendish.


The First Baptist Church was organized by Rev. Aaron Le-


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land, in 1803, with forty-six members, and they worshipped in the Union church located in the center of town. In 1834, the society built a brick church where the town hall now stands. The society was presented by Benj. F. White, of Boston in No- vember, 1850 with a church bell. The brick church was de- stroyed by fire in 1875 and in 1878 the present wooden building was erected having a seating capacity of 250. In 1870, by the will of the late Hon. Richard Fletcher, of Boston, a native of Cavendish, the church came into possession of a valuable par- sonage, a pastor's library of 200 volumes, and a fund of $4,000.


The First Universalist Society started as early as the beginning of Cavendish, for the first to preach this doctrine was Michael, a son of Captain John Coffeen. From 1803 to 1809 Father Ballou, of Barnard, preached in the town. About this time a society was formed, and the general conferences of 1812 and 1828 met at Cavendish. The society included the towns of Plymouth. Cavendish, Ludlow, and Reading; meetings were held once a month until 1827. The church was built in 1824. The original interior, with the same pulpit and pews, has been preserved. Originally tallow candles were used to light the church. Now the candelabrum is wired for electricity. The Rev. William Skinner preached his first sermon in Cavendish on Christmas Day, 1825. At this time he was a resident of Langdon, N.H. but moved to Proctorsville in May 1828.


In 1880 Cavendish had a population of 1,276, and contained eleven common schools. The town has been prominent in manufacture since its early days. A saw and gristmill was erected in 1790 at what is known as Whitesville (a hamlet about a mile north of Cavendish village) the mill was owned by Samuel White, for whom it was named. In 1824, there were in town eight sawmills, three gristmills, four fulling mills, three carding machines, two woolen factories, one nail factory, three tan- neries, one tin ware and stove factory, and one hat factory. Among other industries which have flourished from time to time were: wooden ware, up to 1869; lead pipe and pumps. 1839; edged tools, starch 1840; saddlery and harness, 1820 to 1850; rakes and tool handles, 1849.


There were three highway surveyors elected at town meeting in 1782. A road to Ludlow was laid out in 1784 by Salmon Dut-


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ton, who afterwards was prominently connected with highway developments in the town.


Early highway development in the town was promoted by the Green Mountain and The Weathersfield Turnpike Com- panies. The Green Mountain project was launched in 1797, and another secured in 1799, Salmon Dutton being one of the promoters. The road built is followed generally by present State Route 103 but passed through Cavendish until 1817, when it was relocated through Proctorsville. The Weathersfield Turn- pike ran from Cavendish to the Connecticut River at Ascutney- ville, (now Route 131) and was chartered in 1804.


Town was chartered Oct. 12, 1761 First actual settlement June 1769 First warrant for town meeting Feb. 28, 1782 First marriage April 14, 1778 First death 1785 First birth July 9, 1781 First church 1802


(The records are located in the office of the town clerk, Miss Marion C. White, who lives in the center of Cavendish. The records are available at all reasonable hours and the town clerk is willing to have them inspected and will explain the method and purpose of keeping them.)


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CHAPTER FOUR Proctorsville


1782


N 1782, Leonard Proctor of Westford, Mass., who took a prominent part in the Revolutionary War and was made a captain, came to Cavendish, where he founded in an unbroken forest the village of Proctorsville, building a log cabin. Going back to Massachusetts he returned in March. 1783, with his fam- ily on an ox sled. Arriving at the cabin he found the door had blown open filling the place full of snow. Due to the efforts of his wife he was persuaded to stay. He built the Jenny House fa- mous for its beautiful carvings. The back part was a glove fac- tory, while the front was a dwelling house.


The incorporated village of Proctorsville is located in the southwestern part of the town of Cavendish at the junction of State Routes 103 and 131. The village is built on the banks of the Black River at a point where water power was available and brought about a considerable industrial development in the community.


A petition to have the boundaries of the village determined by the selectmen of the town was filed on February 18, 1907. The boundaries were recorded on February 20, 1907. These boundaries were the same as those of Fire District No. 1 of Cavendish, established in 1883.


The first store was just east of where the Methodist church now stands. It was owned by John and Jabez Proctor; he sold his interest to John and built the brick tavern, now the Fra- ternal building. Abel Gilson built the brick store that stood on the corner where Pollard's block now is.


One mile northwest from Proctorsville on land now owned by Hon. Allen M. Fletcher a quarry of serpentine (a green variegated marble) was formerly worked by a company of which one Isaac Hill was manager. The product was sawn and finished in a mill on the opposite side of the river, two stories, 100 feet by 40, with 10 or 12 gangs of saws and other machinery. This stone takes a high polish and finishes up fine. Specimens


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CHAPTER FOUR Proctorsville


1782


N 1782, Leonard Proctor of Westford, Mass., who took a prominent part in the Revolutionary War and was made a captain, came to Cavendish, where he founded in an unbroken forest the village of Proctorsville, building a log cabin. Going back to Massachusetts he returned in March. 1783, with his fam- ily on an ox sled. Arriving at the cabin he found the door had blown open filling the place full of snow. Due to the efforts of his wife he was persuaded to stay. He built the Jenny House fa- mous for its beautiful carvings. The back part was a glove fac- tory, while the front was a dwelling house.


The incorporated village of Proctorsville is located in the southwestern part of the town of Cavendish at the junction of State Routes 103 and 131. The village is built on the banks of the Black River at a point where water power was available and brought about a considerable industrial development in the community.


A petition to have the boundaries of the village determined by the selectmen of the town was filed on February 18, 1907. The boundaries were recorded on February 20, 1907. These boundaries were the same as those of Fire District No. 1 of Cavendish, established in 1883.


The first store was just east of where the Methodist church now stands. It was owned by John and Jabez Proctor; he sold his interest to John and built the brick tavern, now the Fra- ternal building. Abel Gilson built the brick store that stood on the corner where Pollard's block now is.


One mile northwest from Proctorsville on land now owned by Hon. Allen M. Fletcher a quarry of serpentine (a green variegated marble) was formerly worked by a company of which one Isaac Hill was manager. The product was sawn and finished in a mill on the opposite side of the river, two stories, 100 feet by 40, with 10 or 12 gangs of saws and other machinery. This stone takes a high polish and finishes up fine. Specimens


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Aerial View of Proctorsville, 1952


. ..


are still in existence in some of the older homes as fireplace jambs and mantels. The business was given up about 1845. Since then the water power has been used for saw mill, grist mill, chair shop, soapstone mill, and shoddy mills, but is now abandoned.


In 1806 Zaccheus Blood carried on harness making in a building standing where George H. Parker's house now is; he also operated a tannery where Henry Perry lives and made pot- ash on the old schoolhouse lot.


Luke Parkhurst had a wool-carding and cloth finishing es- tablishment in rear of the factory. Josiah Gilson had a tannery employing several hands.


Kendall Taylor ran a shoe shop, about four hands, on Water street. Reuben Clark had a jeweler's shop on the canal bridge where Wilder's grocery is. Amasa Parker had a gun shop and made rifles where M. A. Cook now lives. Sam Seaver made lead pipe and pumps. Guilford Seaver had a carriage and paint shop and Ira Morse, a blacksmith shop, across the canal opposite Alick Stearns'. Abel Burbank had a harness and saddler's shop from 1820 to 1850 where Hager's blacksmith shop now is; in fact it's the same building.


E. F. Parker ran a general store and had a tin-shop, sending out lots of tin peddlers; later on he made lanterns, employing forty or more hands. His place was just west of and next to the tavern barns, which stood on the now vacant place west of the Fraternal building.


John Cary made edge tools in a shop that stood in the rear of his house, now the Barrett place; afterwards he moved his business to Whitesville.


The first tavern in Proctorsville stood in front of the Bar- rett house. This was at one time kept by Samuel Burbank, an uncle of Alvin Burbank. There is a well now in the street where the old house stood.


The brick tavern at Proctorsville was for many years kept by Major Hyde. He was a model landlord and his place was cele- brated for its good entertainment. It was a stage house and the coaches stopped for dinner there. As many as 50 guests were frequently put up over night and perhaps 100 horses. The busi-


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ness came from all along the line as far north as Middlebury, as this was the Green Mountain turnpike through to Bellows Falls. This turnpike was the present direct road from Rutland through Clarendon, Cuttingsville, straight over the hill to Mount Holly meeting house, thence to Healdville and Ludlow, Proctorsville, Duttonsville, up past the present depot over the hill to Chester. This was the stage route, the road through the Proctorsville gulf was made later, as a kind of shunpike and was largely traveled.


40, 3


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Proctorsville, Vermont around 1865


The stage line was owned by Bardwell and Huntington. The coaches were the oval Concord thoroughbrace style, the best to be had in this country, and the horses were equally good.


In 1839 the National Hydraulic Co. erected a foundry and machine shop for making fire engines and rotary pumps. Fire destroyed a part of the works and the business was abandoned. The building was used by the factory company as a storehouse. Later it became the carriage house at the mill. The belfry on it is the original one built in 1839.


The woolen mill was first built in Proctorsville in 1834-35 by a company formed for that purpose. This mill was destroyed by fire in 1844 and was rebuilt in that and the following year. It was operated by Gilson, Smith & Co. until 1849, when they


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were succeeded by Smith & Balcom who carried on the business until 1856. After this the mill was operated for a few years by William Smith, who began the erection of the stone part of the structure and the office. He failed and it was then taken over by George L. Balcom and Co., who completed the additions to the mill which had already been started. It is of interest to learn that payday came every three months and that all banking at that time was done at Chester; trips to and from being made on horseback.


In 1864 a corporation was formed under the title of Proctors- ville Mills. Balcom of this company failed during the panic of 1873-4 and as a consequence the mill was not used for three years. The company owned the property until 1877, when it was sold to William E. Hayward and I .. H. Taft of Uxbridge, and H. H. Burbank of Proctorsville. They purchased the chair fac- tory located about one mile from the village on the road to Lud- low, in 1880. Both mills were under the management of A. H. Burbank who had charge for 20 years.


Proctor Reels (Murdock's Mill), Proctorsville, Vermont


During this period Herbert Murdock came to Proctorsville from Massachusetts to learn the business and he later became one of the firm, which was known as Taft, Burbank & Murdock. Under this management the new addition to the mill was com- pleted, thus making it the second largest mill in the state at


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that time. Eventually Mr. Murdock became sole owner and continued as such until his death in 1916. The mill changed hands many times since and although the building stands it is no longer a woolen mill being presently operated by Proctor Reels, manufacturers of wood products.


The National Black River Bank, one of the first in this part of the state, was established as a state bank in 1845. In 1865 it was reorganized under the national system and remained as such until the bank holiday and since that time has been con- ducted as a branch of the Windsor County National Bank. In 1909 a savings department was added and the bank at present is transacting business as a National Bank with a Savings De- partment and safe deposit boxes.




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