History of the town of Rockingham, Vermont, including the villages of Bellows Falls, Saxtons River, Rockingham, Cambridgeport and Bartonsville, 1753-1907, with family genealogies, Part 24

Author: Hayes, Lyman Simpson, 1850-
Publication date: 1907
Publisher: Bellows Falls, Vt. : The Town
Number of Pages: 1048


USA > Vermont > Windham County > Rockingham > History of the town of Rockingham, Vermont, including the villages of Bellows Falls, Saxtons River, Rockingham, Cambridgeport and Bartonsville, 1753-1907, with family genealogies > Part 24


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At one time during the existence of this Green Mountain Turnpike, a company was formed to build a piece of road from a point above Lawrence Mills to the bridge across the


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Connecticut to South Charlestown, keeping on the north side of Williams river. The object was to somewhat shorten the route, but as it was to cut out the village and hotel of Rock- ingham, it met with great opposition in that quarter and was never completed. For some distance below Rockingham station, it wound around the rocky cliffs and portions of the wall built at different points are plainly visible at the present time.


Another point where a toll gate was located on this turn- pike was a little below the present village of Bartonsville, a few rods south of the present dwelling of Noyes L. Jackson. The turnpike passed his house, but many years ago was dis- continued for some distance below and changed to another location. The last toll gatherer at this point was a pensioner of the war of 1812 familiarly known as "Deacon" Muzzy. He came to Rockingham from Ticonderoga, N. Y., with "Uncle Nathan" Wooley, another character well known in after years.


In the later years of the system of turnpike roads they became decidedly unpopular as many of the people looked upon them as monopolies, and many traditions have been handed down of the gates being destroyed by exasperated citizens who believed that none should have the privilege of obstructing their free right of way.


The first "County Road" between Bellows Falls and Keene was built in 1823 as, December 29th, of that year, the Bellows Falls Intelligencer said "The new county road from Walpole village to Keene is so far completed as to be passible for sleighs from Walpole village to the third New Hampshire turnpike, a little south of Carpenter's Tavern." There were two "Carpenter's Taverns" in Walpole at that time, the one referred to here being on the top of Carpenter's hill about four and one-half miles southeast of the village. The other was near the mouth of Cold river, now known as the "Cold River House."


In the year 1808, no bridge had been built across the Connecticut at the mouth of Williams river and passage at


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Turnpikes, and a Ferry


that point from the turnpike was made by means of a ferry boat, for which an additional toll was charged. By law, the proprietor of the ferry was obliged to provide and keep suit- able boats and to employ proper ferrymen for the conven- ience of the public. In that year, the owners of the land on the Vermont side disputed the right of the turnpike to cross their land and they erected a heavy fence across the road obstructing the travel to the ferry. The people became much excited and pulled down the fence a number of times but it was put up stronger and heavier each time. Finally, the selectmen of Rockingham and the people of Charlestown had a public meeting at which all interested were warned to appear, and it was agreed "that a gate should be made, and a road opened two rods wide from the ferry to the turnpike road,-the north line running from a maple tree to a large stump, south of Mr. Hager's barn-yard."


Turnpikes were an important system in the operation of the old public stage coach lines, and the tolls made an important part of the expense of conducting the different routes that were established in this vicinity soon after the year 1800.


From the time the town assumed the control of the vari- ous turnpikes, betterments have been made in the highways, all of which have been free for many decades. The expense of maintaining and improving the highways and bridges of this town has increased year after year until 1905, when it amounted to $3,785.02, of which the state highway money refunded was $599.17. In the last few years the town has invested about $35,000 in bridges across the Connecticut at Bellows Falls. The last relic of the earlier method of obstructing the passage of teams by the collection of toll at any point upon the highway or bridges, was abolished November 1, 1904, when the old toll bridge across the Con- necticut at Bellows Falls was made free after its continuous use as a toll bridge for over one hundred and nineteen years.


CHAPTER XVIII.


THE FIRST TOLL BRIDGE ACROSS THE CONNECTICUT, AND LATER BRIDGES


The first large enterprise which directly affected the town of Rockingham, was the erection in 1784 and 1785 of the first toll bridge at Bellows Falls. It was the first bridge spanning the Connecticut river at any point, and was the only one until the year 1796, when one was built at Spring- field, Mass. Because of the fact that this was the pioneer of bridges, and an account of the wildness of the scenery about it, its erection brought the town of Rockingham as well as the "Great Falls" into prominence. It is probable that at the time this bridge was built, there were less than a half dozen primitive dwellings in what are now the villages of Bellows Falls and North Walpole. Residents here were interested chiefly in the extensive fishing industry at that time being carried on at this point, and in the increasing business of carting freight from the boats above and below the falls, previous to the building of the canal.


The first bridge completed during the year 1785, was built under a special act of the New Hampshire legislature, which was as follows :


"AN Act to enable Enoch Hale to build and Keep a bridge over Connecti- cut River.


Whereas Enoch Hale of Rindge in the County of Cheshire Esqr. hath petitioned the general Assemby of said State for the Liberty and Priviledge of building and Keeping a Bridge over Connecticut river at the great falls called Bellows falls in or near the Town of Walpole in said State and to have the exclusive right and Privilege for that purpose of said River from the upper end of said falls to a rock opposite to a line between land of said Hale and John Hubbard Esqr. and that the same might be a toll bridge and under proper regulations for public convenience. The prayer of which petition appearing reasonable and the granting of the same to be of public utility.


Therefore be it enacted by the Council and house of Representatives for said State in general Assembly convened and it is hereby enacted by the authority of the same That the exclusive right and priviledge of building and


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Charter for the Bridge


Keeping a Bridge over said River any where between the upper end of said Falls and the rock aforesaid in said falls be and thereby is granted and con- veyed to the said Enoch Hale his heirs and assigns forever, and that the said Enoch Hale his heirs and assigns shall be entitled to, and have the exclusive right of receiving from any person or persons who may have occasion to pass over the same bridge either by themselves, or with horses, carriages, cattle or creatures of any kind or any other thing such toll or pay therefore as the justices of the quarter sessions of the peace in said County may from time to time allow and order for ferrymen over said river and be it further enacted by the authority aforesaid, that the said Enoch Hale his heirs and assigns shall be and hereby are subjected to like penalties and forfeitures for any neglect in keeping said Bridge in constant Repair or for not giving good and ready attendence to passengers, as ferrymen are or may be liable to by the Laws of this State or such as may be made for the regulation for Ferrymen within the same."


This act was passed by the House of Representatives December 30, 1783, and by the Council December 31, 1783.


June 14, 1797, the New Hampshire legislature, by another act, protected Col. Hale by giving him the exclusive right to maintain a highway bridge within a distance extending two miles north or south of the one he had erected.


June 14, 1804, the New Hampshire legislature fixed the following rate of tolls for passing over the bridge.


"For each passenger on foot, three cents ; each horse and rider, six cents ; horse and chaise or sulky, 12 1-2 cents, curricle or chaise with two horses, 20 cents ; each four wheel carriage with two horses, 25 cents ; each four wheel carriage with four horses, 30 cents or mail stage, passengers, etc., included, 25 cents ; a cart or wagon drawn by one horse, and driver, with or without loading, 10 cents ; a cart or wagon with two oxen or horses, 16 cents; with three oxen or horses, 20 cents; with four oxen or horses, 25 cents ; each sleigh or sled with one horse, 10 cents ; each pleasure sleigh with two horses, 15 cents ; each loaded sleigh or sled with two horses or oxen 15 cents ; each loaded sleigh or sled with four oxen or horses 20 cents ; each additional horse, ox or mule, three cents, horses four cents each, neat cattle and mules, each two cents ; sheep, hogs, calves and goats, 10 cents the score or half cent each."


The original structure was erected at the same point as the present one, but was much shorter and stood from twelve to fifteen feet lower, with sharp pitches in the road at each end. A good representation of this primitive bridge, is the accompanying cut from an oil painting made and presented to the Rockingham Free Public Library several years ago by Frederick J. Blake, a former local artist, now of Rutland.


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History of Rockingham


It was painted from an old lithograph, and he was assisted by the recollections of a number of aged citizens who well remembered the interesting old structure.


The bridge was entirely without cover of any kind, the roadway being placed at the bottom of the frame, with sides coming only six or eight feet above the floor.


The following account from the Massachusetts Spy of February 10, 1785, shows the estimate of the undertaking at that time, and the reputation of our falls for its scenery :


"We hear from Walpole, state of New Hampshire, that Colonel Enoch Hale hath erected a bridge across the Connecticut river on the Great Falls, at his own expense. This bridge is thought to exceed any ever built in America in strength, elegance, and public utility, as it is the direct way from Boston through New Hampshire and Vermont to Canada, and will exceedingly accommodate the public travel to almost any part of the state of Vermont. This bridge is 360 feet in length and about 60 feet above high water mark. The attempt to build it was apparently hazardous, but the work was executed with no other damage than slightly wounding the colonel, and the death of a young man who fell 50 feet into the river on a rock which appeared at the surface of the water."


The river gorge in the vicinity of these bridges is a local- ity which in the early years of the settlement of this valley had a reputation nearly equal to that of any falls on this continent. The greater marvels of nature in other sections had not then been discovered. A few years after the bridge was built, and when the different stage lines had been estab- lished throughout New England, the advertisements of the different routes out of Boston mentioned this one as giving passengers a "view of one of the most stupendous works of Nature" at the bridge over the "Great Falls in the Connecti- cut at Bellows Falls." They were spoken of in terms almost identical, relatively, with those in which the "Niagara Falls Route" of the different railroad lines to-day is advertised as a great attraction. All stages that came through from a dis- tance, up to the time of opening the railroads, used to adver- tise to stop here long enough to allow their passengers to fully examine the falls, and whenever they crossed the bridge they would drive to each side and stop some time for the convenience of their patrons.


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FIRST BRIDGE OVER THE "GREAT FALLS."


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Early Reputation of the Falls


Something of the reputation in England, a century ago, of the "Great Falls" which were later spanned by this first bridge may be gained from the following quotation from the "History of Connecticut, by an Englishman," dated April 28, 1781 :


"Two hundred miles from the Sound is a narrow of five yards, only, formed by two shelving mountains of solid rock ; through this chasm are compelled to pass all the waters which, in time of the floods, bury the north- ern country. Here the water is consolidated, without frost, by pressure, as it swiftly passes between the pinching, sturdy rocks, to such a degree of induration that no iron bar can be forced into it; here iron, lead, and cork have the one common weight ; here, steady as time and harder than marble, the stream passes, irresistible, if not as swiftly as lightning. The electric fire rends trees to pieces with no greater ease than does this mighty water. The passage is about 400 yards in length, of a zigzag form, with obtuse cor- ners. At high water there are carried through this strait masts and other timber, with incredible swiftness, and sometimes with safety ; but when the water is too low, the masts, timber and trees strike on one side or the other, and are rent in one moment into shivers, and splintered like a broom, to the amazement of the spectator.


No living creature was ever known to pass through this narrow, except an Indian woman, who was in a canoe, attempting to cross the river above it, but carelessly let herself fall within the power of the current. Perceiving her danger, she took a bottle of rum she had with her, and drank the whole of it, then lay down in her canoe to meet her destiny. She miraculously went through safe, and was taken out of the canoe intoxicated. Being asked how she could be so daringly imprudent as to drink such a quantity of rum with the prospect of instant death before her, the squaw, as well as her con- dition would allow of, replied : 'Yes, it was too much rum to drink at once, to be sure ; but I was unwilling to leave a drop of it, so I drank it, and, you see, have saved it all.'"


Many present residents of Bellows Falls remember the incident of Captain Paul Boyton's passing through the falls in his rubber floating suit, October 30, 1879. He was on a pleasure trip down the Connecticut and arrived at the dam just at night. During that evening it became known about town that he would go through the falls the next morning, and probably two thousand people gathered on the banks and bridges to see the daring. feat. The water was some- what high and rushed through the gorge with a mighty force. He went into the water just below the dam and with his paddle boldly struck out for the centre of the current, being carried swiftly down. He was caught a number of times in


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eddies and carried round and round, giving him a hard pull to get out into the current. When, at last, he went over the place where the water rushes with the greatest force, just above the Fitchburg railroad bridge, he went out of sight and did not appear seemingly for some minutes, the hair of the of the spectators literally stood on end.


He, however, appeared soon a long distance down the river, and came out of the water from the eddy below. He stayed again that night at Towns' hotel, and to an interested audience he stated that that point was the worst he ever was in, and that nothing would tempt him to repeat the experi- ences of that day. He said the water bore him down with a terrible weight to the bottom of the channel and for a few moments he confidently expected it would hold him there to his death.


The original birch bark box in which the first tolls of the bridge were kept is still here in the possession of one of Col. Hale's descendants, Levi L. Wetherbee. This box is made from yellow bark, with a wooden bottom and cover, the whole sewed together with strong linen thread, and is a great curiosity. It has only recently been returned to Vermont from a branch of the family living in Massachusetts.


The following incident in the history of the bridge, show- ing how Col. Hale lost possession of it, was communicated to the writer by the late Edward H. Green, a descendant of Mr. Geyer and a one time owner :


" Col. Hale, although a man of some wealth during the most of his life, became involved after building the bridge, and was forced to mortgage it to a wealthy Englishman, Frederick W. Geyer, who had made a practice of spend- ing his summers in what was known in later years as the " Tucker Mansion," at the east end of the bridge. Mr. Geyer's winter home. and office, was in Boston. He had for a long time coveted the ownership of the bridge as a good paying piece of property, but Mr. Hale held to it with an iron grip. The mortgage referred to being a time mortgage of the class that if not paid when due the bridge would pass to the ownership of the mortgagee, made it important that the amount should be paid before a certain day. Mr. Hale after much effort raised the amount in time to send to Boston to reach there the day before it should pass out of his hands.


He sent the money by a son, who went by stage, and in stopping at a hotel on the way he met his wife, from whom he had separated some years


Second Toll Bridge Erected 269


before. At the hotel the old difficulties were discussed and satisfactorily adjusted, but in his renewed joys he became forgetful of his trust and delayed his trip till it was too late to reach Boston in time to pay the mortgage. He rushed into Mr. Geyer's office the day after it had become due, and was informed the money would not be accepted and that his father had lost the bridge through his delay.


Mr. Geyer, obtaining ownership in this manner, retained it until his death, which occurred about 1820. In the division of his estate the bridge fell to his daughter Anna, who had married Nathaniel Tucker."


In 1840, the frame was found to be somewhat decayed on account of exposure to the elements, and the present bridge was built about fifteen feet higher than the old one, and directly above, without in any way interfering with it. Dr. S. M. Blake some years ago gave a graphic description of the gathering of a large crowd to watch the workmen cut away the old bridge after the completion of the new one in July, 1840. The old frame was allowed to fall to the rocks many feet below and later was carried away by high water.


From the erection of this bridge during the ownership of the property by Mrs. Nathaniel Tucker, and its management for many years by her husband, it has always been known as the "Tucker Bridge." Sanford Granger, as a builder, had a prominent part in building the new bridge, and furnished the lumber for it in connection with the Elwells of Langdon.


After the death of Mr. and Mrs. Tucker, their grandson, Edward H. Green, purchased the interests of the other heirs, and owned the bridge until 1880, when it was bought by Hon. William A. Russell. March 17, 1902, it was pur- chased by the Bellows Falls Canal Co., and remained in their possession until it was purchased by the towns of Wal- pole and Rockingham, November 1, 1904. At that date, the use of this property became free to the public, after a continuous period of toll gathering of nearly one hundred and twenty years. This event was celebrated in an appro- priate manner by a procession, followed by fire-works in the evening, and a public meeting with speeches by prominent men.


Much of the time while the bridge was under the manage- ment of Mr. Tucker, he attended to the gathering of the tolls


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History of Rockingham


himself, the gate at first being at the New Hampshire end of the bridge. Another of the early toll gatherers was Cady Parks who died August 20, 1837, at the age of sixty-three. The late Edward H. Green said of him : "Old Cady Parks was a well known character of the village in my boyhood, who had charge of the drilling and blasting of stone for the Canal company, as well as acting as undertaker of the place." Somewhat later Powers Crossett, father of A. P. Crossett, a present citizen, became keeper, coming here from Alstead in 1836, and assuming the care of the bridge in 1837. He was in charge when the structure was built in 1840 and so remained until 1849, when he removed to Reading, Vt. He kept the time of the men employed in building the Tucker bridge and inspected the lumber and other supplies used. He returned here in later years, after having tended the toll bridge between Walpole and Westminster a short time, and had been taking tolls at the Tucker bridge three or four years when he died, in 1865, in the old toll house. Later toll gatherers were Nathaniel Munroe, Stillman Buss, Charles H. Sawyer, and Frank L. Ranville. The son of the last named, Charles M. Ranville, was in charge when the bridge was freed in 1904.


In some freshets, while the old bridge was in service, the water came high enough to dash against the timbers endan- gering its safety. During the freshet of 1839 it was in dan- ger of being taken away by the coming down of the bridge which had spanned the river at South Charlestown. When the upper bridge moved off its foundations and until it reached the falls at this place, the old sign upon the end could be plainly read, "Passengers are not to Pass Faster than a Walk." Mr. Milliken, who lived near that bridge, jumped upon a horse and rode here to notify Mr. Tucker, who came out on the New Hampshire side above his bridge. He was so excited that those who saw him say he had all the appearance of trying to guide the on-rushing bridge into the lower channel on the Vermont side by making motions of pushing the bridge to the right point with his cane, which


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THE TUCKER TOLL BRIDGE,


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Freshets Dangerous to the Bridge


was his constant companion. Just before it reached the bridge the force of the current broke it up so there was no damage. The late Mrs. A. F. Nims was seven years old at this time and recently said :


"I remember the incident well. My father was watering his horse in the barn-yard when he saw it coming. He called his family to see it and mounting the horse without saddle or bridle rode down to see the fate of the Tucker bridge. The Charlestown bridge rode grandly upon the rapid cur- rent until it pitched over the first rapids, when one corner struck a rock and it went to pieces 'all at once and nothing first.'"


During this freshet while Mr. Tucker was trying to attach ropes to the end of his bridge to keep it from being lifted from its foundation, he was assisted by Rector Carlton Chase of Immanuel church (later bishop of New Hamsphire), and in some way Mr. Chase fell into the rushing rapids, nearly los- ing his life. A rope quickly thrown to him was grasped and he was drawn out much exhausted.


The old Tucker family Bible, now in possession of the heirs of the late Edward H. Green, has these records : "Nathaniel Tucker, his Bible, 1776." His son, Nathaniel, made these notations, "1853 the West Butment of the Bridge gave way in consequence of 3 days rain, May 26th, Thurs- day Night at 12 ock" (At this time a portion of the Vermont end of the bridge fell, breaking off near the pier in the middle, and the place where it was spliced can still be seen.) "Great Freshet at Bellows Falls. Rain began 3rd Septem- ber, continuing until 12 at night. The east end of Bridge was moved 18 inches. The wharf was carried away." (This wharf was a protection of logs above the west abut- ment.) "The river was never known to be so low, Septem- ber 5, 1829." "E. H. Green bought the Tucker house at Bellows Falls, July Ist, 1879."


During the years that the ownership of the bridge remained in the Tucker family, it was Mr. Tucker's practice to allow any persons from the New Hampshire side of the river, who wished to attend the Christmas festivities at Immanuel church, to cross the bridge free of charge. The Christmas observances in those early days were much more


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History of Rockingham


extensive than at the present time. They included the illu mination of buildings, and several extra church services with exceedingly fine music, and people came in from many miles around.


When the regular stage routes were first established through this section, the stages did not make a practice of crossing the toll bridge on account of the expense of the toll, but went directly up the river, from Boston and Keene to Charlestown. When passing the end of the toll bridge, the driver blew his horn and any prospective passengers from Bellows Falls must cross the bridge on foot, taking their baggage over in a wheel-barrow. The attendants of the Bellows Falls hotels met their patrons at the New Hampshire end of the bridge, and the usual toll of three cents was paid for each foot passenger. Later, when the stage lines became of greater importance, the stages came over to Bel- lows Falls.


The high rates of toll allowed by law were at first the same as had been established for ferriage, and they became burdensome to the people so that ill will was felt against the owners. During the ownership of Mr. Geyer, there was a particularly severe winter, during which the ice was firm across the river, both above and below the falls. This enabled teams to cross as readily upon the ice as upon the bridge, and roads were made by citizens both across the eddy and above the dam. For a number of months there was not a track across the bridge and Mr. Geyer, feeling a little rest- less at the turn affairs were taking, built a wall on the New Hampshire side blocking their road across the ice. A prom- inent citizen came up from Walpole and tore this wall away. Mr. Geyer objected and an altercation ensued, during which the Walpole man offered Mr. Geyer a drink of their usual toddy of those days. This was indignantly refused by Mr. Geyer and he often afterward referred to it in this manner, "do you know, one of the leading men of Walpole offered me a drink of rum from a wooden runnett," referring to a peculiar dipper of those days, and seeming to take his only




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